In my experience, there's little reason to use a riveted chain on a street bike; I've never seen a properly installed master-link come apart except in racing applications.
The 532 chain you have on your ZX-10 is a hybrid between a 630 chain and a standard 530 one. With oversize pins, bushings, and rollers, it's designed to have the strength of a big 630 chain (as once common on Japanese superbikes), but to retain the 5/8-inch pitch of 530 chain. The smaller pitch allows a greater tooth-count on the countershaft sprocket, which helps extend chain life. I'd replace it with another 532 chain unless the cost difference is prohibitive. Keep in mind you'll have to use aftermarket 530 sprockets if you use a 530 chain; the standard Kawasaki 532 sprockets WILL NOT WORK with 530 chain.
And I'd strongly recommend using an O-ring chain. Chains really want to live in an oil bath, or better yet, an oil mist, and the closest motorcyclists seem willing to come to this ideal condition is having the chain company seal in a very high quality lubricant in the pin-bushing-roller area with O-rings. In my experience, a good O-ring chain lasts so much longer in real street riding than a non-O-ring chain as to make the question almost moot. D.I.D. probably makes the best O-ring chains with some of their racing models, but RK, Tsubaki, Diamond, and others are good chains for less money.
As for lubrication, you basically can't lubricate an O-ring chain; the area that most needs it is sealed, for better or worse. Consequently, the lubrication on an O-ring chain is mostly to keep the chain from rusting, and to extend sprocket life. Gordon's recommended 90-weight EP gear oil will work fine, as will a number of spray-on chain lubes. The latter may be slightly less messy. You can even get decent chain life with an O-ring chain with something like KalGard's 30/30 or LPS #1: lubricants that dry to a waxy film, and don't come off onto your back or bike.