Geo Metro Starter Replacement

Author: Dave Williams; dlwilliams=aristotle=net

Anyway, just in case you need to change the starter in a Geo Metro, Suzuki Sprint, or Chevy Sprint, here's the scoop:

1. remove battery cable.  Really.  The starter end is "hot" and you'll swing
   the wrench into something that will cause big sparks.

2. remove air cleaner.  10mm nut on TB post and a 10mm bolt on the valve 
   cover.  Pull off the vent hose on the side, pull the air temp sensor plug,
   and pull off the idle air hose undernear at 2 o'clock.  Lift up and 
   forward, use flat-nose pliers to remove the clamp on the crankcase vent
   hose (the fat one from the cam cover).  Pull the cold air inlet tube off
   the plastic duct; you might have to loosen the Phillips head screw on
   the clamp if someone hasn't already done it.

   Yes, it's a lot of stuff.  All Japanese cars have air cleaners like that,
   best as I can tell...

3. Use a 12mm wrench to loosen the alternator adjustor bolt and swing the
   alternator forward against the block.  If it doesn't want to move, you'll
   have to loosen the 12mm pivot bolt underneath; it may require a socket and
   short extension.  Just loosen it enough to pivot the alternator stiffly.

4. Stick your arm down between the alternator and intake manifold.  The
   starter is off to the right.  Carefully pull the spade connector off the
   solenoid; it's on the firewall side.  Use a 12mm wrench to remove the nut
   on the battery cable.

5. Back up and over the transmission.  The starter is held by two long bolts
   feeding through the bellhousing into threads in the starter housing. 
   The top bolt is in a groove that makes it hard to see, right up against
   the engine block.  Use a 10" or so extension and a 12mm socket and remove
   the bolt.

   The bottom bolt is on the firewall side.  Stick your arm down by the
   intake manifold and use a 12mm box-end wrench.  You will have to pick a
   suitable path through all the hoses, wires, and cables.

6. Stretch and get the kinks ouf of your back, and bend over and use your
   left arm stuck under the intake manifold to grasp the starter.  Wiggle it
   up and down until it comes out of its register.  Holding it firmly by the
   end, lift it between the alternator and intake.  You will have to rotate
   it so the solenoid points slightly to the firewall and down to get
   maximum clearance.

   There are two starters, a long skinny one and a short fat one.  The
   skinny one comes right out, but the fat one doesn't leave much room for
   your fingers and the starter to come out at the same time.  If you can't
   manage it, you can stick your right arm around the other side and feed
   the starter up over the alternator with your right hand.

7. It's out!  It sounds like a lot of work, but with practice, you can do it
   in less than two minutes!  Er, um, well, it's not really a skill anyone
   would really want, I guess.

   The first time I pulled the starter I followed the directions, which
   involved removing the intake manifold.  Which is a major hassle, plus
   a $12 gasket.  Trust me, my way is better.