From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul  3 13:30:19 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MSD 6 Transistors?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: met@pine.cse.nau.edu (MTN-KAT)

I sure do! The turbulence in your cylinders will be pretty high due to the
tunnel-ram and high compression also makes the mixture harder to react.
Make sure that the MSD has VERY good grounding and run the power straight
from the battery. 

****************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@pine.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7, 550+Hp/474FE, Tri-Power, CR-4spd, and Nitrous. 
1962 Galaxie "G" code Sedan, 406 Tri-Power, Over-drive.
1967 3/4 Ton 400Hp/410FE 

Ain't no replacement for displacement!
****************************************************************

From hotrod@dsea.com Sun Jul  9 15:41:35 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MSD 6 Transistors?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: RWilh22444@aol.com

Millam:
Thanks for the response.
I understand the grounding comment...but what do you mean
"run straigt from the battery"?

Rod

From hotrod@dsea.com Sun Jul  9 15:41:51 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Any street rodders out there?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: cruzpch@aol.com (CruzPCH)

I'm building a woodie in Santa Cruz. 350/350, Mustang IFS, soulful resto
rod eventually. Would love to swap info. Is anyone out there?

From hotrod@dsea.com Sun Jul  9 15:45:22 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Mc SS
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)

I am in the market to purchase an 83-88 Monte Carlo SS and need some
questions answered about the differences. Is there any 83-88 MC SS
experts that is willing to amswer some questions?

Frank

From hotrod@dsea.com Sun Jul  9 15:50:21 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TVE #95-26
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)

----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               TV Events

   Now in its 4th and final year of weekly publication, TVE is a
compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea
leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks
to Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports
networks and Tak Ariga for coverage in Canada.  PLEASE confirm dates and
times with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and will
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day
window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
                                          stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

                   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

DW's Racing Weekly                    07/07    11:00-11:30PM    FAM
SpeedWeek                             07/08    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
SpeedWeek                             07/08    6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             07/08    7:00-7:30AM      ESPN2
WINSTON CUP, THE 24 HRS OF DOVER (T)  07/08    9:00-11:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             07/08    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NASCAR Today                          07/08    11:00-11:30AM    ESPN
DW's Racing Weekly                    07/08   11:30AM-12:00PM   FAM
BUSCH NORTH, LOUDON (L)               07/08    1:00-4:00PM      TNN
AMA SUPERCROSS, LAS VEGAS (T)         07/08    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed                      07/08    2:00-2:30PM      ESPN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, MONACO (T)          07/08    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
HYDROPLANE RACING, DETROIT (T)        07/08    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              07/08    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             07/08    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               07/08    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
SATURDAY NIGHT, HICKORY (L)           07/08    7:00-9:00PM      HTS
NASCAR SuperTruck Mid-Season Report   07/08    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
ASA, GRAND RAPIDS (L)                 07/08    9:00-11:00PM     EMPS,
                                           HTS,PSN,PSW,SCOH,SCPH,SPTS
ASA, GRAND RAPIDS (L)                 07/08    9:30-11:00PM     SCNE
AMA MOTOCROSS, BUDD'S CREEK (T)       07/08   11:00PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
This Week In Motorsports              07/09    1:30-2:00AM      WGN
MotoWorld                             07/09    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
AMA MOTOCROSS, BUDDS CREEK (T)        07/09    9:00-10:00AM     ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic                    07/09    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               07/09    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, SAN MARINO (T)      07/09    10:00-10:30AM    ESPN2
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (small tracks)   07/09    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
IHRA JUNIORS (T)                      07/09    10:30-11:00AM    ESPN2
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              07/09    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Drag Racing                    07/09    11:00-11:30AM    ESPN2
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      07/09    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Rick Benjamin (L)           07/09   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
In The Driver's Seat                  07/09   11:30AM-12:00PM   ESPN2
NASCAR SuperTruck Midseason Report    07/09    12:00-12:30PM    ESPN2
IHRA, EMPIRE NATIONALS, LEICESTER (T) 07/09    12:30-1:30PM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, LOUDON (L)               07/09    1:00-5:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, ELKHART LAKE (L)             07/09    1:30-4:00PM      TSN
INDY LIGHTS, WEST ALLIS (T)           07/09    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, ELKART LAKE (L)              07/09    2:00-4:30PM      ESPN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, SPAIN (T)           07/09    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN2
IndyCar Shop Talk                     07/09    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (T)           07/09    5:00-6:00PM      ABC
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, NETHERLANDS (T)  07/09    5:00-6:00PM      ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic                    07/09    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
The Best Of Shadetree Mechanic        07/09    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              07/09    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      07/09    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Rick Benjamin (L)           07/09    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
MotoWorld II                          07/09    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN2
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      07/09    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               07/09   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
RaceDay Update w/Rick Benjamin (L)    07/10    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
COPPER WORLD CLASSIC, PHOENIX (T)     07/10    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                07/10    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
INDYCAR, ELKART LAKE (T)              07/10    3:00-5:30AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        07/10    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MotorWeek                             07/10    5:00-5:30AM      WGN
IHRA SPORTSMAN, BRISTOL (T)           07/10    5:30-6:00AM      ESPN
INDYCAR, ELKHART LAKE (T)             07/10    8:30-11:00AM     TSN
MotoWorld                             07/10    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed                      07/10    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN2
Auto Shop                             07/10    8:00-9:00PM      QVC
IHRA, EMPIRE NATIONALS, LEICESTER (T) 07/11    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Inside Drag Racing                    07/11    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN2
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, NETHERLANDS (T)  07/11    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN2
SUMMER LEGENDS SHOOTOUT, CHARLOTTE (L)07/11    8:00-10:00PM     EMPS,
                                       HTS,PSN,SCOH,SCP,SCPH,SPTS,SUN
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    07/13    8:00-9:00PM      EMPS,
                        HTS,PASS,PSN,PSN2,PSSW,SCNE,SCP,SCPH,SPTS,SUN
MotorWeek                             07/13    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
USAC MIDGETS/SPRINTS, IRP (L)         07/13    8:30-10:30PM     ESPN
For Race Fans Only                    07/13   10:00PM-12:00AM   QVC
MotoWorld II                          07/14    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        07/14    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
WINSTON CUP QUALIFYING, LONG POND (L) 07/14    3:00-4:30PM      EMPS,
       HTS,MSG,PASS,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,PSW,PSSW,SCC,SCNE,SCOH,SCP,SCPH,SUN
NASCAR, SPORTSMAN 150, LONG POND (L)  07/14    4:30-6:30PM      EMPS,
       HTS,MSG,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,PSW,PSSW,SCC,SCNE,SCOH,SCP,SCPH,SPTS,SUN
DW's Racing Weekly                    07/14    11:00-11:30PM    FAM
SpeedWeek                             07/15    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
USAC MIDGETS/SPRINTS, IRP (T)         07/15    3:00-5:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             07/15    6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             07/15    7:00-7:30AM      ESPN2
ARCA 150, LONG POND (T)               07/15    9:00-11:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             07/15    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NASCAR Today                          07/15    11:00-11:30AM    ESPN
DW's Racing Weekly                    07/15   11:30AM-12:00PM   FAM

                  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

INDY LIGHTS, DETROIT (T)              07/15    12:00-12:30PM    ESPN
Checkered Flag (Canadian GP)          07/15    12:30-1:00PM     ESPN
SCCA BARBER PRO, ELKART LAKE (T)      07/15    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
ARCA, SUPERCAR 150, LONG POND (L)     07/15    1:05-3:00PM      TBS
AMA MOTOCROSS, BUDDS CREEK (T)        07/15    1:30-2:30PM      ESPN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, ERIE, CO (?)      07/15    tba              tba
Super Chevy Series, Topeka            07/15    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR QUALIFYING, TORONTO (SD?)     07/15    5:00-6:00PM      CBCE,
                                                            CBCM,CBCW
Road To The Brickyard (NASCAR)        07/15    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
ESPN2 LIGHTNING, IRP (?)              07/15    8:00-10:00PM     ESPN2
AMA MOTOCROSS, SOUTHWICK (T)          07/15    10:00-11:00PM    ESPN2
FORMULA 1, BRITAIN (SILVERSTONE) (L)  07/16    8:30-11:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, BRITAIN (SILVERSTONE) (L)  07/16    8:50-11:00AM     ESPN
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (Humpy Wheeler)  07/16    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               07/16    1:00PM           TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L)                  07/16    1:30-3:30PM      ABC
INDYCAR, TORONTO, CANADA (L)          07/16    1:30-4:00PM      CBC
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (Humpy Wheeler)  07/16    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, BRITAIN (SILVERSTONE) (SD) 07/16    11:30PM-2:00AM   CBCE
FORMULA 1, BRITAIN (SILVERSTONE) (T)  07/17    12:00-2:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, BRITAIN (SILVERSTONE) (SD) 07/17    2:30-5:00AM      CBCW
INDYCAR, TORONTO (T)                  07/17    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (L)               07/22    2:00-4:30PM      TNN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, FRANCE (T)          07/22    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN2
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (Indy rookies)   07/23    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            07/23    1:15PM           CBS
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (Indy rookies)   07/23    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                07/23    3:00-5:00PM      ABC
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (SD)               07/23    8:30-11:00PM     TSN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (T)                07/24    12:30-3:00PM     TSN
NHRA, MILE HIGH NATIONALS, DENVER (T) 07/24    7:30PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (T)                07/25    3:00-5:00PM      ESPN
IMSA, SEARS POINT (T)                 07/27    5:00-6:00PM      ESPN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, GREAT BRITAIN (T)   07/29    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN2
IROC #4, MICHIGAN                     07/29 (live coverage is unlikely)
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, TOPEKA (L)        07/29    3:00-5:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, SOUTH BOSTON (L)            07/29    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
SCCA BARBER-DODGE, ELKART LAKE (T)    07/29    5:30PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (L)    07/30    7:30-10:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (L)    07/30    7:50-10:00AM     ESPN
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (Safety Safari)  07/30    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 07/30    11:30-3:30PM     TSN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 07/30    2:30-6:00PM      ABC
Win! w/Rusty Wallace (Safety Safari)  07/30    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
ASA, HEARTLAND PARK, TOPEKA (L)       07/30    3:00PM           TNN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, FRANCE (T)          07/30    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY  (SD)  07/30    11:30PM-2:00AM   CBCE
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY  (T)   07/31    12:00-2:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY  (SD)  07/31    2:30-5:00AM      CBCW
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 07/31    12:30-4:00PM     TSN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 07/31    1:00-4:30PM      ESPN
NHRA, CALIFORNIA NATIONALS, SONOMA (T)07/31    7:30PM           ESPN
IMSA, PORTLAND (T)                    08/03    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, INDIANAPOLIS (?)  08/03    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (?)            08/04    tba              tba
BRICKYARD 400 (L)                     08/05    12:00PM          ABC
AMA GRAND NATIONAL, SPRINGFIELD (T)   08/05    3:00-4:00PM      TNN
SCCA BARBER-DODGE, ELKART LAKE (T)    08/06    3:30PM           ESPN
NHRA, NORTHWEST NATIONALS, SEATTLE (T)08/07    8:30PM           ESPN
SCCA BARBER-DODGE, SEARS POINT (T)    08/12    2:00AM           ESPN
AMA GRAND NATIONAL, DU QUOIN (T)      08/12    3:00-4:00PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      08/13    7:30-10:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      08/13    7:50-10:00AM     ESPN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, GERMANY (T)         08/13    12:00-12:30PM    ESPN2
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         08/13    1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LEXINGTON, OH (L)            08/13    2:30-5:00PM      TSN
INDYCAR, LEXINGTON, OH (L)            08/13    3:00-5:00PM      ABC
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     08/13    11:30PM-2:00AM   CBCE
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (T)      08/14    12:00-2:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     08/14    2:30-5:00AM      CBCW
INDYCAR, LEXINGTON, OH (T)            08/14    4:00-6:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, LEXINGTON, OH (T)            08/15    12:30-3:00PM     TSN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (?)                08/19    tba              tba
ASA, ANDERSON, IN (?)                 08/19    tba              PSN
AMA GRAND NATIONAL, LAKE ODESSA (T)   08/19    3:00-4:00PM      TNN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, FLEMINGTON (L)    08/19    6:00-8:00PM      TNN
WoO, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (L)          08/19   10:00PM-12:00AM   TNN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   08/20    12:30-3:00PM     TSN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   08/20    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             08/20    12:30PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (T)                   08/21    8:30-11:00AM     TSN
NHRA, NATIONALS, BRAINERD (T)         08/21    9:30PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (T)                   08/22    7:30-9:30PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (?)                 08/25    tba              tba
AMA GRAND NATIONAL, SEDALIA (T)       08/26    3:00-4:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              08/26    7:40PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, BELGIUM (SPA) (L)          08/27    7:30-10:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, BELGIUM (SPA) (L)          08/27    7:50-10:00AM     ESPN
ASA, BADGERLAND 150, WEST ALLIS (L)   08/27    3:00-5:30PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, BELGIUM (SPA) (SD)         08/27   11:30PM-2:00AM    CBCE
FORMULA 1, BELGIUM (SPA) (T)          08/28    12:00-2:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, BELGIUM (SPA) (SD)         08/28    2:30-5:00AM      CBCW
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, GREAT BRITAIN (T)   08/29    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
IMSA, BRAINERD (T)                    08/29    1:30-3:30PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (?)              09/02    tba              tba
NHRA, PRO BIKE DASH, INDY (L)         09/02    tba              TNN
INDYCAR, QUAL., VANCOUVER, CANADA (L) 09/02    5:00-6:00PM      CBC
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, GERMANY (T)         09/02    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           09/03    1:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, BIG BUD SHOOTOUT, INDY (L)      09/03    tba              TNN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER, CANADA (L)        09/03    3:30-6:00PM      CBC
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER, CANADA (L)        09/03    5:00-7:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER, CANADA (SD)       09/03    11:30PM-2:00AM   CBCE
SCCA BARBER-DODGE, MID-OHIO (T)       09/04    12:00AM          ESPN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER, CANADA (SD)       09/04    2:30-5:00AM      CBCW
ASA, ST. PAUL (?)                     09/04    tba              tba
NHRA, U.S. NATIONALS, INDY (L)        09/04    4:30-7:30PM      TNN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (T)                09/05    12:30-2:30AM     ESPN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, RICHMOND (?)      09/07    tba              tba
IMSA, MOSPORT (T)                     09/07    2:30-3:30PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                09/09    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             09/09    7:30PM           TBS
FORMULA 1, MONZA, ITALY (L)           09/10    8:30-11:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, MONZA, ITALY (L)           09/10    8:50-11:00AM     ESPN
ASA, KAUKAUNA, WI (?)                 09/10    tba              TNN
INDYCAR, LAGUNA SECA (L)              09/10    3:30-6:00PM      TSN
INDYCAR, LAGUNA SECA (L)              09/10    4:00-6:00PM      ESPN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, HUNGARY (T)         09/10    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
FORMULA 1, MONZA, ITALY (SD)          09/10    11:30PM-2:00AM   CBCE
FORMULA 1, MONZA, ITALY (T)           09/11    12:00-2:00AM     TSN
FORMULA 1, MONZA, ITALY (SD)          09/11    2:30-5:00AM      CBCW
INDYCAR, LAGUNA SECA (T)              09/11    8:30-11:00AM     TSN
SCCA BARBER-DODGE, LOUDON (T)         09/12    12:30AM          ESPN
INDYCAR, LAGUNA SECA (T)              09/12    7:30-9:30PM      ESPN

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCF     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (French)?
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
DIS      The Disney Channel
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
FAM      The Family Channel (a NASCAR team sponsor!)
HBO      Home Box Office
HIST     The History Channel
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PBS      Public TV (USA)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSRM     Prime Sports Network (Rocky Mountains)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
PSSW     Prime Sports Network (Southwest)
PSW      Prime Sports Network (West)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SCPH     Sports Channel Philly
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"

 __________________________________________________________________________
| Bill Stoffel     |    NSWCCD CODE 859        |                           |
| 410-293-9507     |    3A LEGGETT CIRCLE      |  Get well soon Stan       |
| (voice or fax)   |    ANNAPOLIS, MD 21402    |                           |
|__________________________________________________________________________|
                      



From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 11 18:56:57 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: Bob Valentine 


   Since I haven't seen any traffic here for 2 days, I'll toss out 
a question:

   Why are studs so much stronger than bolts for applications like heads 
and main bearing caps? 

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 11 18:59:31 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MSD 6 Transistors?
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X-From: met@pine.cse.nau.edu (MTN-KAT)

Rod, there is a constant hot wire (10 ga.) on the MSD unit. Run that wire
directly to the battery + post. It needs as much current as it can get, no
sense in routing the current through a wiring harness or fuse block.

[ I have followed this advice and had no problems.  What I did was
to go to Home Depot and buy a solid copper clamping thing, often
used for terminating power feeds at breaker panels, and used the
bolt on the battery clamp.  This device has a screw to hold a 
wire.  In the screw slot I put my two electric fan power leads 
plus the MSD lead.  Similarly for the negative side.  --FEP ]

Millam

From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 11 19:05:05 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: MSD6A vs. Hypertech Coil
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X-From: Phillip Buttolph 


Sorry to re-run this but I never got any answers.  Questions:

(1) Are there any potential problems running an MSD6A through a Hypertech 
Cap/coil/rotor on a GM HEI system in my ZZ3 engine (Blue Max wires)?

(2) Are there any advantages? 

(3) Is more voltage always better?

You might remember that in 1,200 miles I melted down the Hypertech cap 
around the carbon post and after that MSD6A recommended installing a low 
resistence carbon contact rod/bushing in the new replacement Hypertech cap.
My system can be run with the stock GM HEI or with the Hypertech coil; 
which is best and why?  Thanks.

Phil:::
************************************************************
Phillip Buttolph		Office (707) 826-4104
Humboldt State University	Fax    (707) 826-5446	
62' Sateen Silver Corvette
************************************************************
"That's not Duck Tape; it's Sateen Silver Racing Tape!"


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 11 19:06:03 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mc SS
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X-From: Quik2Love@aol.com

I've got an 85' SS it was stock when I bought it but now the only thing
stock is most of the body. Interior has been reapoulstered but still
looks semi-stock, around polished aluminum roll cage and custom gauges
in dash. To the point, I looked at all years of the SS and chose an 85
because of its apearance. From a distance they all look the same, if
you look 83-85 are pretty identical 86 came the 3'rd taillight and some
changes to the rear appearance, some small altercations to the
drivetrain were made to meet emissions and I think there were some
different interior options. 87-88 came slight changes to the nose and
there were suspension changes along with slight drivetrain changes to
keep with standards but for the most part all are pretty equal it's
more a personal prefrence of looks that suit you, you can find the
exact differences in a book directed just towards Monte SS's I don't
know the name but it's there.

Any other q's just ask

The Judge


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 11 19:06:43 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: T-bucket writeup
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X-From: jca@fibercom.fibercom.com (James C. Akers)

Well Guys, since the list has been a little quiet lately, I figured I
would post the latest on our T-bucket effort.  My friend and I have
been working on this car for over 4 years (mostly occasional part time)
and it is finally on the road.  We have yet to take it to the track,
but Larry is now confident enough with the chassis to try it.  I will
post further performance results as we get them!  We did make a full
throttle pass on the interstate to redline in high gear...  approx 160
MPH in about 8-9 seconds.  We have yet to turn the bottle on...  dunno
if I want to be around for that.

Enjoy!
jC.

Vehicle: 1923 Ford T-bucket
  Purpose: Street-driven performance/bracket racer/pick on local rods
  Body: Lightweight racing body, no top or "trunk", "Hot Rod Red"
     color, Deltron Base/Clear.
  Passenger Space: 2 bucket seats, knees up the arse.  Simpson 5-pt 
     Harnesses for Driver and Passenger.
  Wheelbase: 88.5"
  Full Weight: 2000 lbs.
  Frame: Full 2x3 Box, with custom cage/roll bar; Gloss Black 
     Concept Acrylic.
  Suspension: Alston Ladder Bar & Koni coil over Rear
     Reverse Wishbone & inverse leaf Front
  Steering: Corvair Reverse Box.
  Brakes: Impala Drums Rear, '54 Chevy Drums Front.  Custom 
     frame-mount master cylinder.
  Hotrod Trick: Line Pressure switch for brake lights- std Ford Van
     part.
  Wheels: Weld Draglite R-15x14; F-15x3.5
  Tires: R-M&H 30"H 18"W, 591 Comp; F-Moroso 25"H 5.5"W
  Differential: 12 Bolt Chevy; 4.11 Richmond Gear; Rebuilt
     HD Factory Posi; stock axles w/Moser C-clip eliminators;
     Alston Wheelie Bars. 9 degrees pinion angle.
  Transmission: Linwood Craft "shorty" Powerglide with TCI Transbrake
     and manual valve body.  TCI 4500 7" Race Converter
  Other Electronics: Moroso Line-Lock

Engine:
  Displacement: 454 CI
  Redline: 7500 RPM.
  Estimated Base Horsepower: 500 (conservative)
  Pistons: Factory LS6 HD, approx 10.75:1 Compression Ratio
  Rods: Factory LS6 HD, 7/16" ARP Bolts
  Heads: Factory LS6 HD Rectangle Ports; Ported, Polished and Shaved.
     5 angle valve job; Crane Full Roller Rockers.
  Cam: Crane Solid, .700" Lift; 300 adv duration
  Cam Drive: Pete Jackson "Noisy" Gear Drive
  Headers: Sanderson Hotrods with mini-side pipe mufflers (very loud)
  Induction: Weiand Tunnel Ram; port matched.  Two Holley 660 center-
     squirter race carbs.  K&N Velocity Stacks and Filters.
  Ignition: Unilite Distributor; MSD 6AL; MSD NOS Timing Retard
  Extra Power: NOS Pro Shot Fogger; adjustable 150-500+ HP; NOS
     Purge Solenoid.  Oil and Fuel Pressure Cutoffs.
  Fuel Deliv: Moon 12 Gal Alum. tank over Rear Axle, custom sump.
     1/2" Primary Fuel Line through Fram filter and Mallory 140 Pump,
     through Mallory pressure bypass regulator at engine with 3/8" 
     return.
  NOS Fuel Deliv: 1/2" Nitrous Fuel Line through second Fram filter and
     secondary Mallory 140 Pump and standard Mallory Pressure Regulator
     at engine.
  Fuel Type: Sunoco CAM II and Chevron Premium Mix.
  Cooling: Custom 4-core Radiator, 17" Flex Fan (no room for electric)

Performance: Coming soon to a track near you!
Impressions: HOLY SHIT WHAT A RIDE!  Launches hard and straight off
     Trans-brake, pulls really hard from 4,000 RPM.  Car
     can be driven in traffic and over distance with no
     apparent heating or drivability problems.
Possible Tech-Problems: No room for transmission scatter-shield
     required for many brackets.  Still need to install arm-restraints.

_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers    Advanced Systems Software   Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com    Litton-FiberCom Inc.    (703)342-6700


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 11 19:22:24 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Hmmmm
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X-From: "Drew Rogge" 


I posted requests to WheelToWheel and racefab wondering what suggestions
anyone had on setting up a small automotive workshop in a 20x24 foot
garage I'm building. One of the responses said that the subject was
discussed in great detail on your list and that the hotrod archives
might be a source of more suggestions. So anyway, are there any hotrod
list archives? If so how would I access them to scrounge the info out?

[ Send a message with "Subject: hotrod ftpmail ls" to get a listing
of the archived data.  Each thing that ends in ".di" is digest.
There is discussion in there about past garage building activity.
Good luck.  --FEP ]

Thanks,
Drew Rogge
drew@pixar.com

From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 12 13:18:05 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Needing picture of 1972 'vette
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X-From: BMac6@aol.com

Hello,

Without looking like too much of a novice here, I need to find a
picture or if any of you have Gif's or Jpeg's of a 1972 'vette
convertible, would appreciate any info you can give me.  Friend of mine
is looking for in particular, one that's dark metallic green with black
interior.  He saw one in an Auto Show here in Austin and had fallen in
love with it.  Would like to be able to send him a photo of one for
grins.  Be glad for any info on finding a picture of one to make into a
Gif.

Thanks in advance for your help and for not flaming me in the process.

[ No flaming here, but this message is right at the edge.  It is 
harmless enough, so here it is.  --FEP ]

BMac6@aol.com

From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 12 13:19:55 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: yarvin-norman@CS.YALE.EDU (Norman Yarvin)

>   Since I haven't seen any traffic here for 2 days, I'll toss out 
>a question:
>
>   Why are studs so much stronger than bolts for applications like heads 
>and main bearing caps? 

A naive question: why have you concluded that they are?  I ask this
because I can't think of any theoretical reason for studs to be
stronger, assuming both the stud and the bolt are designed properly.
(a big assumption :-)

[ Someplace I have read about this issue.  I am no expert.  If I 
remember correctly, it comes down to 'studs do not have to 
transmit torque while they are being tightened down' therefore
they can be designed differently, as more nearly pure tension
devices.  There may be some information in "Screw to Win", 
"Engineer to Win", or the "Machineries Handbook".  --FEP ]

--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu
  "If they ever ask if you talked to me about it, you can just say no."
	-- Bill Clinton

From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 12 13:36:03 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Any street rodders out th...
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X-From: BokkenEye@aol.com

sounds like a nice project, keep us posted.........

bokkeneye@aol.com
t.ray@comland.com

From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 12 13:36:59 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: T-bucket writeup
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X-From: BokkenEye@aol.com

If you did 160 MPH in a t-bucket, WITHOUT FLIPPING OVER, due to no
aerodynamics, then I won't even bother lining up next to you.  AND I
SURE AS HELL DON'T WANT TO BE AROUND WHEN YOU FLIP THE SWITCH FOR
NOx!!

BOKKENEYE@AOL.COM


From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 12 13:40:19 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject:       Re: Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: "Glen Rossiter" 

>    Since I haven't seen any traffic here for 2 days, I'll toss out 
> a question:
> 
>    Why are studs so much stronger than bolts for applications like heads 
> and main bearing caps? 
> 
>                     --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
>
Hi Bob, now I`m no expert, but I`d tend to think that a stud is 
screwed into the head (or whatever), and then the load and friction 
encountered in torquing down said head is taken by the nut and not 
the head thread, which is screwed all the way in, so as not to stress 
out the thread in the head. I mean, what I`m trying to say is a 
threaded hole would probably handle more tensile strength without 
having to worry about the friction of the thing. And it`s easier to 
replace a stud or nut than have to heli-coil a hole in your head ?!?
                I think!!!

     | ROSSITERG@ADMIN.CHCHP.AC.NZ | `33 WILLYS COUPE 392 HEMI      | 
     | GLEN ROSSITER               | `63 PLYMOUTH BELVEDERE 440 HP  |  
     | CHRISTCHURCH POLYTECHNIC    | "HAPPINESS IS A HEMI-HAULED    |  
     | NEW ZEALAND                 |  TOLEDO VIBRATOR"              |  
      --------------------------------------------------------------  

From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 12 13:42:22 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: BokkenEye@aol.com

AS FAR AS I KNOW THAT IS BECAUSE A STUD IS ANCHORED AT BOTH ENDS (the
threads) WHEREAS A BOLT IS ONLY ANCHORED AT 1 END.  A bolt is a solid
rod of steel that has had the head welded on or mushroomed.  A stud is
a solid rod of steel  that has had threads cut into it. These threads
provide the gripping action, thru friction, for the fastening end to
hold onto.

Anybody else go a better answer??

[ Better answers abound in two references that I can name.  First is
Carrol Smith's "Engineer to Win".  He takes a great deal of time to
describe fasteners.  The second, more practical, is an article by Kevin
Cameron in his TDC column in Cycle World where he talks about design of
con rod bolts.  Sorry, no date off the top of my head, but if you read
all of them for the last two years, you will be better off for the
effort.

Bolts can be forged with rolled threads; studs can be cut from mild
steel.  Most of the strength of a bolt comes from the alloy used, 
plenty comes from the treatement of the bolt, and plenty comes from
the type of threading.  The word "strength" is too general to describe
bolts; one must consider fatigue, ductillity, heat cycling, the 
bolt's fit in its hole, and MANY other factors to make good decisions
about fasteners.  --FEP ]

bokkeneye@aol.com

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 12:31:25 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Needing picture of 1972 'vette
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X-From: JAMES R NEILL 

THere is a large collection of GIF's at wuarchive.wustl.edu in the
graphics/gif subdirectory.  You can get to it through anonymous ftp.
Whether or not they have a 1972 Vette, I don't know.

LAter

Jim Neill

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 12:43:53 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Needing picture of 1972 'vette
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X-From: Pragertc@aol.com

look at vettes on the net

 http://www.bcd.com/bcd/votn/default.html

The lead ad is for a 1972 Corvette, complete with picture.


t prager

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 12:46:29 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: engineering hop-ups
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X-From: BokkenEye@aol.com

As a practical question of extracting max power from an engine, does anybody
have a list to be followed?
   What I mean is, should I put on headers first or pick the cam first? Does
it matter what kind of engine I am building for the order to matter (race
engine as opposed to street engine)? Excluding any exotic ideas like putting
on turbos with intercooler and NOx, I'd like to see some viewpoints on the
subject.
Items to be considered are:

  camshaft,air filter,exhaust,headers,intake,pistons,spark plugs,
   valves,torque converter,etc......

[ First, start with $50,000, then when you make $10,000 worth of
mistakes, you do not feel too bad.  Generally this is not practical.

A more useful approach is to define exactly what you want to do 
with the car, and how much money you can spend.  Then read a great
deal.  Various cars can be modified in various ways.  American 
road cars from the '60s and '70s came with a wide varitey of 
engines.  For example, it is possible to put 3 different I6 motors,
all of the 348 series V8s, the dozen or so small blocks, and the 
dozen or so big blocks from Chevy in my Chevelle.  Power range from
about 100 to 500 hp.

I can only mention a few general rules.  Power requires fuel and 
air.  Good breathing will always be important.  Go for a good, 
free flowing exhaust and headers; this money will never be wasted.
Power comes with high compression.  Power comes with displacment.  
Mostly, power comes after spending money.

The prototypical "wake up" is to alter the carb., cam, intake and 
perhaps ignition and exhaust in an American V8 from the '70s.  It
might be possible to double its power that way.  --FEP ]

Bokkeneye@aol.com

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 13:04:21 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mc SS
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X-From: GBodyTek@aol.com

In a message dated 95-07-11 19:10:00 EDT, you write:

> Interior has been reapoulstered but still
>looks semi-stock, around polished aluminum roll cage and custom gauges
>in dash.

Does anyone know of a good upholstery shop in the Seattle area??

                             Jeff / GbodyTek@aol.com

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 13:04:26 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Front end on 40 chevy
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X-From: rscott6092@aol.com (RScott6092)

Any suggestions...I am putting on a Fatman or Heidt front end.  I was
going to go with a mustang II, but have read in ads and sales
pitches..."Get rid of the wimpy Mustang II rotors, switch over to GM
11", ect."  Am I making a mistake in going Must. II??  I only want to
do this once, Any suggestions?


From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 13:04:50 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mc SS
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 

>I am in the market to purchase an 83-88 Monte Carlo SS and need some
>questions answered about the differences. Is there any 83-88 MC SS
>experts that is willing to amswer some questions?

I own an '87  My brother has owned an '83 and an '86.  I think I can probably
answer any questions you may have.

Feel free to mail me or post them

Preston Marshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.ORG



From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 13:04:57 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: MACS 609 certification
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X-From: rlr@bbt.com (Rader = Darn Jar All Dry Error)

  Got my A/C certification in the mail last night.  Although I'm glad
I can once again buy CFC or HCFC refrigerants, I am still a bit miffed
at the fact I had to jump through this $20 hoop.

  The test is ridiculously easy, but in the process of studying the
supplied material I learned a few things about R-12 and EPA regulations
that I didn't know before, so I suppose I got something out of the deal.

  Anyway, at what date does R-406a become legal for retrofit into mobile
refrigeration units?  And has anyone other than George Gobel tried it
in an old R-12 system?

  Ron

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 13:06:08 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: The Camaro..she is FINISHED!! Almost....
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X-From: Stickyroll@aol.com

F I N A L L Y !!!!!!!

My interior went into my car!! YESSS!!!

Anyone who does an interior themselves, GOD BLESS YOU!! I got in WAY over my
head shortly after I took out the rear inside quarter panels and the
carpeting!!
Total bill thus far is around 800 dollars for all my parts and 400 for
installation.
Carpet,
Underlayment/sound deadener
Front seat foam for both buckets
Seat covers  (vinyl) for all seats
New quarter panels for the back seat
New door panels

All that's left to do is buy USED trim pieces for around the doors and get
them dyed black to match the rest. THAT will cost me another 250.
Amazing how quickly my old spray painted pieces look like .....!

So, guys and gals, that is my trip. The car DOES look Bitchin' all in black
inside...Canary Yellow outside.  What ELSE for a car that lives in
Pittsburgh!!

All I can say is SHOP AROUND!!!! Prices vary SO MUCH!! WATCH OUT!!

  LISA

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 13:07:26 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: T-bucket writeup
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X-From: jca@fibercom.fibercom.com (James C. Akers)

>If you did 160 MPH in a t-bucket, WITHOUT FLIPPING OVER, due to no
>aerodynamics, then I won't even bother lining up next to you.  AND I
>SURE AS HELL DON'T WANT TO BE AROUND WHEN YOU FLIP THE SWITCH FOR
>NOx!!
>BOKKENEYE@AOL.COM

Aw don't be such a wuss!  :-)  Actually, I was quite pissed at
the time because all the warning I got was "you better put your
harness on"...  my friend has sort of mean-streak-almost-suicidal
tendency about him.  Since I lived through it, it doesn't bother
me too much.  Even at that speed, the car was very stable... the
chassis works remarkably well for the mix of technology.

I almost forgot to mention for all you other classic "dice and moon"
kind of hotrodders out there, that just behind the engine on both
sides of the lower part of the body we had a Clay Smith 
"Pissed of 'Pecker" painted.  The car really wasn't complete until
that.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers    Advanced Systems Software   Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com    Litton-FiberCom Inc.    (703)342-6700

From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 13 14:34:45 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: re: MACS 609 certification
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Steve=Ravet%Prj=Eng%PCPD=Hou@bangate.compaq.com

Hotrod List  Wrote:
| 
|   Got my A/C certification in the mail last night.  Although I'm glad
| I can once again buy CFC or HCFC refrigerants, I am still a bit miffed
| at the fact I had to jump through this $20 hoop.
| 
|   The test is ridiculously easy, but in the process of studying the
| supplied material I learned a few things about R-12 and EPA regulations
| that I didn't know before, so I suppose I got something out of 
| the deal.
| 
|   Anyway, at what date does R-406a become legal for retrofit into mobile
| refrigeration units?  And has anyone other than George Gobel tried it
| in an old R-12 system?
| 
|   Ron

Ron -- No-one has tried it legally in a mobile application, at least
not since 1992 or something....   George has quite a fleet that he has
tried it in, somewhere between 500 and a couple thousand cars, and no
R-406a related failures.  It will be legal September 18th.  You can
look at his WWW page for more details:

http://worldserver.com/R-406A/

EPA SNAP regulations require unique fittings for every type of
refrigerant, so you'll have to get the correct ones, or adapters.

--steve


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 00:22:01 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: The Camaro..she is FINISHED!! Almost....
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X-From: MJ1970@aol.com

In a message dated 95-07-13 12:21:26 EDT, you write:

>.

Try Paddock, You might be able to get new for the price of used....

I use them for my 70 Mustang.

From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 00:24:34 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Street/Strip dual-engine idea
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X-From: Kelly Murray 

I've been trying to shake this crazy idea I have, but haven't been
able to let it go, so I thought I'd get some feedback on it.

I've been thinking about putting my 460 into a '86 Taurus Station
Wagon.  In the back, as in mid-engine, like a rear-engine dragster is
setup.  The car will keep it's front-wheel drive setup intact.  Thus, I
will be able to drive it around using the stock drivetrain, and at the
strip, run the 460.  I look at it as both tow-car and race-car in one
package.  It can then pass CA smog, and get decent mileage driving
to/from the track.  The ultimate sleeper street/strip car.

Yep, I'm crazy all right.  It would be one unique vehicle, sure to make
HotRod's "wierd street" issue!  Would it work?  Would I get laughed at
in the staging lanes?? :)  Should I build it?

-Kelly "has to be different" Murray   kem@franz.com

[ Doit doit doit.  Sounds like fun, but be prepared to spend some 
serious dollars and some time engineering a frame to keep the 
460 from passing that FWD setup when you step on the gas. --FEP ]   


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 00:26:23 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Fwd: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: RWilh22444@aol.com

jc:

thank you very much for your response...this is the first time for
me...so i have many novice questions...to start from the beginning...
i am recreating the 55 chevy from the movie two lane blacktop...if you
don't remember...it had (as will mine) primer gray body, fiberglass
trunk lid, doors and one-piece flip forward nose with home-made
aluminum box style scoop, radiused rear wheel wells, american racing
teardrop aluminum mags, 4-point roll bar, two racing bucket seats, no
back seats, rear seat back brace cut out, so you can keep a set of m&h
racemaster slicks in the back seat/trunk area...i already have the car
and most of the above...the power is:  427 (from a 69 impala ss), std
bore (will bore it .030), rectangular port chevrolet hi-perf closed
chambered heads, stock crank balanced by lunati, to connect it, i have
a muncie m-22 rock crusher 4-speed from a 1970 chevelle...this will be
a weekend street cruiser...  suggested items i have yet to buy:

hayes clutch...maybe zoom
msd6al
hooker headers
tunnel ram and carbs
1977-1979 trans-am rear end assembly w/disc brakes
front disc brakes

any suggestions on the items to be purchased...?  i know some of the
things i'm doing aren't neccessarily state of the art or very
practical...i just want to build this 55 with the kind of nostalgia/hot
rod mentallity of the early 70's.  any help would be greatly
appreciated.  rod...

[ Both Danchuk and Global West have disk brake kits.  It is hard
to beat Summit for prices on most anything.  --FEP ]


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 13:31:20 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 

As I remember, the car had a straight front axle with coil-overs; this
will require some engineering and fabrication skill to replicate.
Also, since you're going with a roll bar, why not just update the
configuration to an 8-point?  A cage won't detract from the intended
look, is much safer, and adds a lot of rigidity.

An additional data point:  the car from "Two Lane Blacktop" went on to
be "Bob Falfa's" (Harrison Ford) black '55 in "American Graffiti".

Bill


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 13:36:03 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Street/Strip dual-engine ...
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X-From: BOGTJ300@aol.com

One problem that you may have with that is that the power and torque
may destroy the front drivetrain. You might think about using something
like 4WD manual hubs so you can unlock the front drivetrain while you
are using the back one.

[  Good point.  Consider that there are devices on the market
designed to solve the problem of towing a front wheel drive car
behind a motorhome.  These are essentially quick disconnect CV
joints.  Likely worth looking into.   
   OTOH, one could go with the station wagon designed with being 
towed in mind, the Saturn wagon.  It has roller bearings in the 
transmission, and is able to be towed indefinitly in neutral 
without damage.
   I loved the story a few years back by a list member where he
recounted a Powerglide failure in a 55? Chevy being towed across
Nevada at 85 mph.  Something seized, due to lack of lube,  and the 
tranny sheared off at the bell housing, taking it and other parts
of the car for a high-speed tumble across the desert.  Who was
that?  --FEP ]


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 13:36:57 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)


-> Why are studs so much stronger than bolts for applications like heads
-> and main bearing caps?

A stud is, in theory, no better than a bolt, assuming both are properly
installed.  "Properly installed" means clean, properly formed mating
threads, among other things.  If you've ever looked at the threads
inside the head and main bolt holes on most Chevy or late Ford
products, you'll see how some blocks have less than 40% thread form to
start with, and what little there is, is pretty rough.  It's also not
uncommon to find them tapped crooked, Baud alone knows how that was
accomplished on a gang drill fixture.

Where the bolt has to use whatever threads are in the block, a stud is
in much better shape.  One end of the stud is screwed into the tapped
hole, which does nothing much more than retain the stud.  The tension
load in the stud is generated by the precisely cut threads of the nut
on the opposite end.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us=========================DoD# 978=======
                                                                                                             

From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 13:35:52 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Any street rodders out there?
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X-From: jang@agames.com (Mike Jang)

>I'm building a woodie in Santa Cruz. 350/350, Mustang IFS, soulful resto
>rod eventually. Would love to swap info. Is anyone out there?
>
Yup,

'51Merc  350/350 chopped top, 50's style (kept most of the original
stainless trim).  Updated the master cylinder but most of the brake
system is stock.  Suspension is basically of stock design but upgraded
and lowered with replacement springs and shocks.  I did all the work
myself over the last 4 years.

Mike Jang  San Jose, Ca 


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 15:46:37 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: SDierolf@aol.com

If you want the best answer for this, the people I would talk to is ARP
in California.  You can usually find their number in National Dragster,
from Summit, or any number of different magazines.  They specialize in
bolts and I am sure that they all know the answer.

SDierolf


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 15:46:41 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com

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Posted-Date: Friday, Jul 14 1995 12:10:06
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X-From: Frank Evan Perdicaro 


I have been looking into the issues associated with getting my Chevelle
caged, as is required in the race I'd like to run, that high-speed one
in the Nevada desert.

The race rule book essentially says "see the NHRA rule book on
fabrication".  So I have looked, and the picture is not as I would like
it.

First, remember that I want to continue to have a street car.  A street
car has a rear seat, one that is usable.  A street car has an interior
and tries not to have holes in the floor.

The 1995 NHRA book is fairly particular about the style of 6 point cage
allowed.  It must be welded of a certain type of tubing, and, if the
car has a frame, must be welded to the frame.  This implies holes in
the floor at four or more points.  I have deciced to run the rear
braces down through the speaker holes in the rear deck, so they are not
a problem.

Also, I have looked at what is available commercially.  Summit sells an
A-body 6-point setup, but it is generic, and I have been told that it
makes no sense in a street car.  But, it is $148.  I am tempted to buy
one just too see how it works in the car.

What, in practice, can I do to have a 6 point that lets me get to the
back seat, leaves few holes in the floor, and is in general
streetable?

Currently, the only thing I have come up with is to get a good-fitting
cage made by a NHRA-competent shop ( yikes, $600 and up ) or make a
cage ( that means I need a bender and a welder, yikes another $1000 )
and hope it is approved, and then modify it after the race.  It would
be modified to be realistic, with a removable cross brace and lowered
forward braces, but would not be NHRA legal.

Certainly it is possible to build a cage that is strong AND can come
out of the car without a cutting torch, but how?  I'll listen to any
ideas.

While you are thinking, tell me if you know of a good way to put three
point belts in the back of a '64 Chevelle that never even had stock
rear belts.  I hope to use part of the cage for the shoulder belt high
pickup point.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x258		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x258	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 19:12:20 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mustang II
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X-From: Tom Carver 

The Mustang II suspension is a nice way to go.  I put one from Fatman
Fabrications on my Chevy truck.  The crossmember is super strong, like
3/8" thick wall rectangular tubing.  The truck drives like a car now,
and it sits "in the weeds".

I adapted '89 Camaro discs to the Mustang II spindles using a kit from
Engineered Components Inc.

Even though I have discs, I have manual brakes and I used the manual
rack & pinion from a '78 Pinto station wagon.  I used a Mustang II
master cylinder in a bracket made by Fatman.  It sits under the
floorboards just like a stock '54 Chevy.  With the super-long arm of
the stock brakes, there's no problem stopping the truck.  It's a little
firm, but not difficult at all.  The manual steering is also fine.  It
gives you a nice feel of the road, and only gets a little difficult if
you're moving under one mile an hour.  Otherwise, it drives like sports
car.  The coil springs give you a great ride.  I chopped my coils (from
a Pinto Wagon with a V6 and A/C) one coil.  That stiffens up the
springs enough to be just right for the truck.  At first I thought I'd
need an anti-sway bar, but have since decided that it hardly leans at
all.  Since the truck's so low, the center of gravity's lower, and it
handles pretty well actually.

When I installed mine, Fatman's was the cheapest way to go.  I think it
was a little over $300.00, and I got all the Pinto parts from a
low-mileage wagon at the junkyard, cheap.  I wound up using a
proportioning valve from a wrecked Mercury Montego I think, and a
tilt-steering column from a '75 Firebird.

I did all the work myself -- the instructions from Fatman were kind of
sketchy, but I managed to figure it all out.  I even wound up doing the
front end alignment myself.

>From what I can see in the ads, the crossmembers from different
companies differ mostly in aesthetics.  Fatman was the cheapest, and
possibly the strongest.  For a few thousand bucks, you can get
stainless steel everything with coil over shocks, but who can afford
that?

Tom


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 19:13:44 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: broerd@kaos.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dirk Broer)

>
>-> Why are studs so much stronger than bolts for applications like heads
>-> and main bearing caps?

I don't think "so much stronger" is accurate.

>
>A stud is, in theory, no better than a bolt, assuming both are properly
>installed.  "Properly installed" means clean, properly formed mating
>threads, among other things.  If you've ever looked at the threads
>inside the head and main bolt holes on most Chevy or late Ford
>products, you'll see how some blocks have less than 40% thread form to
>start with, and what little there is, is pretty rough.  It's also not
>uncommon to find them tapped crooked, Baud alone knows how that was
>accomplished on a gang drill fixture.
>
>Where the bolt has to use whatever threads are in the block, a stud is
>in much better shape.  One end of the stud is screwed into the tapped
>hole, which does nothing much more than retain the stud.  The tension
>load in the stud is generated by the precisely cut threads of the nut
>on the opposite end.

Well the conversation peaked my interest so I looked it up In Smith's
Screw to Win (actually the title is "Nuts Bolts, Fastner and Plumbing
Handbook" or something really close to it).

Reason why studs are better than bolts (according to Carrol Smith) 
1) For items that are disassembled over and over - the stud protects the
femal threads in the block or whatever.  As a side note: Carrol
recommend installing all studs hand tight with thread locker on the
threads - that way there is no preload.  This is important on all studs
that are required to have strenght in tension.

2)  Less friction from the threads when tightening - I assume he means
not only are the threads usually a finer pitch but the thread
engagement on the nuts is less than the thread engagement in the block
(or whatever) thus the pre-load on the stud is much better controlled
and is much more consistant.

3) More even stressing than in a bolt.  Which should make it last
longer.  By this I assume he means the shape of the stud is more
uniform - thus the stress will be distributed more uniformly along its
length.

4) There was some discussion about the studs being less prone to
vibrating out.  One end is of course fixed by loc-tite.  I'm not sure
why a nut will back of less easily than bolt - but Carol Smith mention
the lack of a need to wire the nut in locations he would normally drill
and safety wire.

If I missstated Carol's arguments please correct me.

Let me just add one of my own.  I've noticed the ARP studs in my small
block have a large wide washer.  Seems this washer would act like a
wider shoulder.

Just a note about Carols books.  They are available from Classic Motor
Books.

Engineered to win - how to engineer parts so they won't fatigue or
otherwise fail.  Materials and mechanical engineering short course for
those of us that aren't material or mechanical engineers.

Prepared to win - More of the same with more discussion on bolt
selection, fabricating parts (weld patterns) etc.  I think this is his
earliest book.

Tune to win - haven't gotten to this one yet.

Screw to win - Everything you ever wanted to know about nuts bolts and
plumbing.  Somed up in two words  ARP bolts and Earls.  Yes Carrol has
his favorites.

Of the three that I have scanned - the theme basically is how not to
break.  A good discussion on what to do vs. what not to do to build
maximum reliability.  Unfortunatly much of it seems to rely on a
professional race team budget.  Gee, I wonder what an aviation grade
bolt vs. a grade 8 bolt costs?  If your dabbing in major fabrication
efforts, or your trying to track down why a part failed Carrol's books
are worth reading.

Dirk


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 19:17:04 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com

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Posted-Date: Friday, Jul 14 1995 15:27:42
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X-From: broerd@kaos.gsfc.nasa.gov (Dirk Broer)

>I have been looking into the issues associated with getting my Chevelle
>caged, as is required in the race I'd like to run, that high-speed one
>in the Nevada desert.
>
>The race rule book essentially says "see the NHRA rule book on
>fabrication".  So I have looked, and the picture is not as I would like
>it.
>
>First, remember that I want to continue to have a street car.  A street
>car has a rear seat, one that is usable.  A street car has an interior
>and tries not to have holes in the floor.

I'm pretty sure that NHRA allows swing out side bars - meaning you can
take the side bars and put them on pivots - which of couse means you
can remove a few bolts and take the side bar out completely.  Before
you decide to go this route, contact Morrison AM (advertise in the NHRA
rule book).  An 8 point roll cage is $175 from them.  You can also
contact S&W race cars - a little cheaper, but they are in Penn. near
Phily.  I think Alston or Chris Alston is a West cost shop - they
should also be able to answer your questions.

Also, the cross bar could also be hinged. 

The rule book doesn't specifically go into swing out bars etc. but the
drag race fabrication mail-order places sell them, and I notice the
NHRA puts a lighter requirement on the cross brace.  I guess the cross
brace is for seat belt/seat mounting only and thus doesn't need to be
as strong.

>The 1995 NHRA book is fairly particular about the style of 6 point cage
>allowed.  It must be welded of a certain type of tubing, and, if the
>car has a frame, must be welded to the frame.  This implies holes in
>the floor at four or more points.  I have deciced to run the rear
>braces down through the speaker holes in the rear deck, so they are not
>a problem.

Yep, I've been think about this as well (on a corvette).  I would
recommend replacing the body mounts on the car with Urathane ones.
This will limit how much the cage moves in respect to the body.

>
>Also, I have looked at what is available commercially.  Summit sells an
>A-body 6-point setup, but it is generic, and I have been told that it
>makes no sense in a street car.  But, it is $148.  I am tempted to buy
>one just too see how it works in the car.
>
>What, in practice, can I do to have a 6 point that lets me get to the
>back seat, leaves few holes in the floor, and is in general
>streetable?
>
>Currently, the only thing I have come up with is to get a good-fitting
>cage made by a NHRA-competent shop ( yikes, $600 and up ) or make a
>cage ( that means I need a bender and a welder, yikes another $1000 )
>and hope it is approved, and then modify it after the race.  It would
>be modified to be realistic, with a removable cross brace and lowered
>forward braces, but would not be NHRA legal.
>
>Certainly it is possible to build a cage that is strong AND can come
>out of the car without a cutting torch, but how?  I'll listen to any
>ideas.

Spend the 5$ and buy the Morrison Catalog.  gets you in the mood to do
some real fabrication.  In the special order section they tell you what
measurements they need to custom make a roll cage.

Another thing to note - tubing is expensive.  Most places sell tubing
in 24 ft sections and will cut it one for transportation reasons.  If
you can efficiently use the tubing (ie you need 25 ft) you will need to
buy a lot of extra.

As far as a tube bender goes.  For a car - the only bent pieces
should be the main hoop.  Worse comes to worse - you make a mok-up out
of wood and take it to the fabrication shop and have them duplicated it
for you.

As for fabrication costs.  Locally they want $42 an hour - that
includes disassembly of whatever is necessary.  That means if you can
tack weld a cage in place and two/haul/push your car to a welding shop,
they should be able to finish it for you.

As for the design of a cage.  The cage should do two things

1) Save your @$$.

2) Tie the engine to the 4 corners of the car.

For number 1 - see the NHRA rule book.  I've watched the rules evolve
and I suspect, as with any major sanctioning body, the rules are there
for a reason.  Remeber, a drag racer only goes so fast in 1/4 mile -
with the right gears - they would go much faster.  Considering you want
to turn left and right as well as go straight the chances for misshap
(your fault or otherwise) is much greater, not to mention the effect of
a misshap could be much worse.  Although you may be tempted -
compromise in favour of safety.  If I recall correctly the fatality a
few years back in the Silver State race was in a car where the 5 point
harness didn't hold.  Sounds like driver/owner error to me.

For number 2 - at least on an A body, the following points should be used 
for the roll cage.
1) near the front shock mount (8-point cage)  This should also tie into the 
motor mount cross memeber.
2) Rear suspension lower A-arm pickup point.
3) Rear suspension shock mount (for road racing an 'X' patter would be 
better (see the Morrison AM catalog for roll bar/cage options.  -this might 
not work for the rear passangers though.

You should never have a bar end in the middle of another bar.  There
should always more that one bar (hopefully an opposed bar) at the same
intersection.  For example a 'T' would be bad - the top bar would just
give way when the vertical one pushed on it.  An "X" would be much
better.  Notice the side bars on the NHRA bars meet where the cross bar
is.  Its not perfect but reasonable.

Here's one idea for a good safe bar that may allow alot/some use of the back 
seat:
  _______               
 /\      \
|  \      | 
|   \     |
|----\    |
|     \   |
|      \  |
|       \ |
|        \|

Excuss the poor ascii art -

The small cross brace will be the locator for the seatbelts.  The rear
seat passangers can get in and out via the passanger side.  I'd
contanct NHRA tech department and see what they say.  This particular
cage would be much better for roll over protection IMHO.

[ You have made plenty of good points.  I'll buy the NHRA book and
Morrison catalog.  About the single bent piece.  I would like to
have the cage as out-of-the-way as possible.  As far as I have 
counted, this means 9 bends on the main hoop, plus 3 on each 
rear-facing brace.  This is non-trivial.

I cannot say for certain, but I did not see in the '95 NHRA book
any way to allow swing-out stuff.  In any event, unboltable stuff
would be fine with me.  In general, I understand what make stiffness
and strength, Steve Smith's "Stock Car Chassis Techniques" is 
good for this, as are a few other books.  

When I finish forming a new tank for my motorcycle, I think that 
I will mock up a cage in 1/2" copper pipe, or perhaps EMT, and 
ask around for a better price.   --FEP ]

Dirk


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 19:17:07 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: 
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X-From: "Rund, Sharen" 

By your address I believe you live south of me (I live between Monterey
& Santa Cruz) - but I'd say the best bet you could make is to work with
one of the race car builders - there's two that I can think of quite
quickly:  
  - Dana Stahl of Dana Stahl Engineering; he has a shop in Watsonville,
  cars he builds race at a number of tracks around the area and

  - Paul Newman (the car builder not the actor) he has built cars for the
Pike's Peak run, etc, he has a shop in Scotts Valley If you're
interested I can get you their numbers

[  Sure, post the numbers, I'll give them a call.  I am in Orange
County, south of LA and north of San Diego.  --FEP ]


From hotrod@dsea.com Fri Jul 14 19:17:17 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: yarvin-norman@CS.YALE.EDU (Norman Yarvin)

>>   Since I haven't seen any traffic here for 2 days, I'll toss out 
>>a question:
>>
>>   Why are studs so much stronger than bolts for applications like heads 
>>and main bearing caps? 
>
>A naive question: why have you concluded that they are?  I ask this
>because I can't think of any theoretical reason for studs to be
>stronger, assuming both the stud and the bolt are designed properly.
>(a big assumption :-)
>
>[ Someplace I have read about this issue.  I am no expert.  If I 
>remember correctly, it comes down to 'studs do not have to 
>transmit torque while they are being tightened down' therefore
>they can be designed differently, as more nearly pure tension
>devices.  There may be some information in "Screw to Win", 
>"Engineer to Win", or the "Machineries Handbook".  --FEP ]

A mild correction: There seems to be no such book as _Screw to Win_.  I
found this out by sending an order for it to Carroll Smith, whereupon I
got back a copy of _Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners, and
Plumbing Handbook_.  I guess the publisher thought the original title
was too suggestive.  
[ Yes, this is the truth, but I like "Screw to Win", and the
reference is fairly well know.  The book used to come with a 
sticker to cover the official title.  
The sticker said "Screw to Win".   --FEP ]

And if one wants to get really thorough, one can try _An Introduction
to the Design and Behavior of Bolted Joints_, by John Bickford.  I
actually have that 400-page book, which is one of those books printed
for "professionals" and universities which costs a lot -- I was
attending a theoretical conference at one point and got really
desperate to read something practical -- and having bought it I felt
obliged to read it.  An excellent book, if somewhat overkill for a
hotrodding audience.

But Dave Williams has pointed out why studs are stronger in practice,
something the above theoretical tracts do not mention.  If the
threading in the engine block were the same quality as the threading in
the nut, and thus provided the same amount of friction, there would be
no difference.  In practice nuts are generally much better made and
thus give lower friction.

Actually there is a slight theoretical difference.  If the threading in
the engine block has fewer threads per inch than the threading in the
nut, the torque required to tighten the bolt will be higher than that
to tighten the nut on the stud, independent of friction.  But with
normally used threading pitches, the effect of this is small.

--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu
 "We do things in a big way in the United States.  I have always believed
  in planning big, and I have always discovered after the fact that if
  anything, we didn't plan big enough." -- Alfred P. Sloan


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:29:13 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mc SS
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X-From: TEDMATU@aol.com

Good job to all.


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:30:31 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Any street rodders out there?
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X-From: KSanf@aol.com

Yes.  I just finished a 34 Chevy 2 door sedan. Mustang II IFS, 350ci,
350T, Ford 9" Rear.


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:32:26 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Street/Strip dual-engine ...
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X-From: TEDMATU@aol.com

Talk about a project!  I don't know if you can make this one work.

[ Such things have been done.  
I have not heard of any lately.  --FEP]


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:33:19 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: RWilh22444@aol.com

bill:
you have a great memory...yes, i want to do the straight/coil overs
just like the movie...

dont you think a 55 chevy truck straight front axle with 5 lug hubs
would work?  seems like all of these 32 highboy types could figure this
one out...thats all they use to run until mustang II front ends took
over.  

thx...rod

From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:34:24 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Street/Strip dual-engine idea
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X-From: Bob Valentine 


> I've been thinking about putting my 460 into a '86 Taurus Station
> Wagon.  In the back, as in mid-engine, like a rear-engine dragster is

> will be able to drive it around using the stock drivetrain, and at the
> strip, run the 460.  I look at it as both tow-car and race-car in one
> package.  It can then pass CA smog, and get decent mileage driving
> to/from the track.  The ultimate sleeper street/strip car.
 
    And then when some all-wheel-drive thingy pulls up next to you, just 
fire up the 460 for some 4WD fun...  

    It could be done.   People have put GM E-body (full size V8 front 
drive land yachts) front ends into Fieros, so I'd guess you could do the 
same.  A few (10?) years back, some guy made a Chevy pickup with _2_ V8's 
mounted in the bed using a marine V-drive to turn the power around to the 
rear end.   Or, how about swapping in a SHO drivetrain front AND back,   
or some 4 wheel steering?

> -Kelly "has to be different" Murray   kem@franz.com

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
     "Clinging Tenaciously to the Trailing Edge of Technology"


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:35:43 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: TEDMATU@aol.com

It seems as though I read an article in Hot Rodding Mag.
stating that two 55's were built for the Grafetti film.

[ Got any year or month for such a citation?  --FEP ]


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:35:58 1995
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Subject: Re: No Subject
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X-From: NOELGA@aol.com

Hi 
I see you are building a 64 chevell.  I would like to bulid one too for
street/strip.  Would you know where I could find a 64-64 two door with
posts?  

Noel.

[ One can find them all easily around here, assuming I know what 
you mean by a "64-64 two door with posts".  Running, non-trashed
64s start at about $1200, and go up to about $7500.  One can 
get a nice one for about $4000.  Check the advertising posted
on the wall inside OPGI ( Huntington Beach ), Danchuk ( Santa Ana )
and CARS ( Fullerton ).  One of those cars will be ok.  

To make a good one costs a bit.  Typical cars do not have
useful brakes, need paint and interior, suspension work and 
tires.  People tend to focus too much on the drivetrain. --FEP ]


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:37:13 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: Mench39@aol.com

Sounds like a nice project,ya may want to rethink about a tunnel
ram...I didn't see where ya live,I'm in upstate N.Y. and I had a tunnel
ram on my 39 chev,350 eng.and when the weather got a little on the cool
side,it didn't work worth a damn..I f ya are in a warm climate then I
guess it would be ok.

I also am in process of doing a 55,it was my frist car...I found it in
a garage where the guy who owned it used it as a drag car...he took out
the 265 and put in a vette 283,power pack heads,4 sp.,posi rear end...I
have painted it candy apple red with black flames...flames all the way
back to the rear fenders...lots of Von Dutch style pin striping and of
course a Flying Eyeball!!!!!

The 55 is going to be my every day back and forth to work daily
driver...low buck..loud steel pack mufflers..old time 50's cruiser...I
put a rolled front pan on it ...welded the back bumper to make a one
peice and smoothed it out,painted red to match the rest of the 55...

Feel free to e-mail me as to the progress of your 55...looking forward
to hearing from ya..

Oh,I also slammed it right down in the weeds...my other cars are a 49
Hudson(stock),39 Chev street rod and a 71 Chevelle convt,which I like
to drive,whenever I can pry my 19 yr old daughter out of it....

bye....Ron.

From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:39:47 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Studs vs. Bolts?
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X-From: yarvin-norman@CS.YALE.EDU (Norman Yarvin)

>4) There was some discussion about the studs being less prone to
>vibrating out.  One end is of course fixed by loc-tite.  I'm not sure
>why a nut will back of less easily than bolt - but Carol Smith mention
>the lack of a need to wire the nut in locations he would normally drill
>and safety wire.

That's because he uses self-locking nuts.  Otherwise he'd have to
Loctite them or something.


>Engineered to win - how to engineer parts so they won't fatigue or
>otherwise fail.  Materials and mechanical engineering short course for
>those of us that aren't material or mechanical engineers.

On rare occasions he messes up a thing or two.  For instance he has a
roughly drawn graph where the elastic modulus of steel is different in
hardened than in non-hardened steel.  In fact the elastic modulus is
the same.  What changes is the yield strength.  This is a significant
fact: it means for instance that all steel springs having the same
shape will have the same spring constant (be equally hard to
compress).  It also means that the only way to tell a hardened steel
wrench from an unhardened one is to bend it to the point where the
unhardened one would deform permanently.  Up until the unhardened one
bends permanently, they feel the same.  (Hardness testers do the same
thing on a smaller scale.)

Of course the fact that this is about the worst thing he says is pretty
extreme praise.

>Tune to win - haven't gotten to this one yet.

Smith says in the preface to that book that he does not expect everyone
to agree with what he wrote, and that he is dealing with a very murky
area of knowledge.  This should be taken seriously; it is not false
modesty.  Many of the explanations in that book are confusing; a man
like him does not write confusing explanations in order to deceive, but
rather because he himself is confused.  Of course 9/10 of the book is
completely clear and straightforward.

--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu
 "Nylon 9 is made from soybean oil by reacting with 
    ozone."  Materials Handbook


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 13:45:26 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Any street rodders out th...
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X-From: TEDMATU@aol.com

Love those Mercs. Especially with a chopped top.
This is what I propose to do with my 33 five window coupe.



From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 14:02:58 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Disc Brake Coversion Kits & List Commands
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X-From: Phillip Buttolph 

First, I am considering putting Disc's on my 62' Corvette (front) this
Winter and need any suggestions for a vendor/kit....A question came
up:  the kits have a dual master cylinder (original is single) and only
one of the three I have seen includes a proportioner (sp?)
valve...don't all such conversions need that valve?  and my dread is
the apparent need to fabricate and locate a new brake line to put rear
drums on their own system...  also may consider rear disc's if it
proves to be reasonable....got the sucker going fast enough, now I just
need to stop it!  Anybody done this conversion on a solid axle
Corvette?  or have a friend that has?  Need advice and pointers.

F.E.P...can you please send me a listing of list commands?

Frank P..  get that Bow Tie together and join us in the Pony Express
100 either this September (I can't make that one) or in June..great
people and what a rush!

[ FEP == Frank P.  

The typical mistake that folks do with the hotrod server is to 
ignore what I say about the Subject: line.  The body of the message
is ignored.  The key is the Subject: line.  It must say 
something like "Subject: hotrod ftpmail ls" or 
perhaps "Subject: hotrod ftpmail get gas_faq".  The server 
discards bad attempts, so I never reply to them.

This week we may turn on our web service and this stuff
will likely be at http://www.dsea.com/~frank/html/hotrod/PUB/*
Dainippon Screen makes scanners.  There will be many pictures.

As for brakes, I know that there are a few places that sell 
Corvette brake kits, including Global West.  Look in the Corvette
rags for info; not really my car.  

I too had a single circuit brake system.  I went to a dual 
circuit with proportioning valve, the Wilwood one.  There are
a few things to think about. Be sure to remove the residual 
pressure valve from the disk circuits.  If you want a fail-safe
lined braking, use the more recent GM bias valves PLUS a Wilwood
setup ( for its ease of adjustment ).  This setup may require
you to home-run all the brake lines, a bit of work.  Get the biggest 
brakes you can afford.  

WRT my sled....  I am buying a house this week.  Whereas it is 
true that I just bought more car parts, and am looking into 
a cage, I still need to get and install the cage, seats, and 
belts in order to run.  Plus I would like hood locks ( currently
in the glove box ) and a steel air dam ( currently on the 
porch ) before I run.  Want to come by and work on my car?
The house will have much more space to do car work, plus lemon,
orange and banana trees for refreshment.....  I will run
one, or more, of those races.  --FEP ]

Thanks.
Phil:::
************************************************************
Phillip Buttolph		Office (707) 826-4104
Humboldt State University	Fax    (707) 826-5446	
62' Sateen Silver Corvette
************************************************************
"That's not Duck Tape; it's Sateen Silver Racing Tape!"


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 18:57:43 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject:      two 55s
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Bill Edison 


>  It seems as though I read an article in Hot Rodding Mag.
>  stating that two 55's were built for the Grafetti film.
>
>  [ Got any year or month for such a citation?  --FEP ]


  I would imagine at least 2. One to drive and 1 to crash at the end of the
  picture.


 Bill Edison

From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 17 19:02:35 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: RWilh22444@aol.com

Ron, 
Do you think putting a straight front axle under the 55 would be fairly
easy?  it will have a 427, tunnel ram dual 4's, and a muncie rock
crusher 4 speed.  building for a mean weekend cruiser type.

thanks
Rod


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 18 12:27:15 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mustang II
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X-From: SafeSix@aol.com

I missed the original posting on this thread so I'm not sure whether
discussion is appropriate for this group. If not I guess I'll find out!
Anyway I'm trying to decide the best way to upgrade the front
suspension (?) on my '51 GMC 1/2 ton. My options are:
   A: the Mustang II as discussed here
   B: Similar conversion using Pacer parts
   C: Monoleaf spring installation.

My conclusions at this point are as follows:

   A. The Mustang II is a proven solution, parts are widely available,
   many aftermarket  upgrades are available. Crossmember kits are $400
   - $500, plus the suspension components either new or used.

   B. The Pacer installs as a complete crossmember w/ suspension
   attached.  The Kit is about $100 and includes some adaptor brackets.
   Donor car should be a V8 for proper spring rates. Also a fairly
   common swap, but future parts availability is a concern.

   C. Monoleaf spring conversion is the simplest, but will do nothing
   for steering (others will include Rack & Pinion) or braking. This
   kit is relatively new on the market.  The above options are listed
   in descending order of cost. Everyone I've talked to is convinced
   THEY have the best solution - the monoleaf can be combined with a
   disc conversion thus bringing the cost up to approximately that of
   the Pacer. The Mustang II is the most expensive. My goals are (in
   order of importance):

       1. A more pleasant ride, i.e, softer. 

       2. Better handling; reduce body lean.

       3. Safety. I want better brakes and more responsive steering.

       4. Lowered ride height, not radical, 3" would be nice.
    
Given the above priorities I'm leaning towards the Pacer. It seems to
offer the best combination of benefits at the lowest cost. I'd
appreciate hearing from anyone who has been down this road before,
pitfalls encountered, etc.

PS: I've ruled out a subframe / clip transplant as beyond my expertise.
Ditto with a Mopar torsion bar conversion.


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 18 12:32:37 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: 1955 Chevy
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X-From: BokkenEye@aol.com

What kind of setup do you have on your 283 ,Ron?  I've got the same
engine in my 67 Impala that I'm trying to squeeze more power out of.

bokkeneye@aol.com


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 18 12:52:30 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: '67 Cougar drag coefficient?
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X-From: met@pine.cse.nau.edu (MTN-KAT)

Anyone want to take an educated guess as to the drag coefficient for my
car?

I'm wanting to calculate an approximate Hp requirement to exceed 180
and maybe upto 200 mph. I know it sounds somewhat crazy to want to run
that fast in her but Bonneville and the Silver State Classic are just a
short distance away. If she can do it then so can I...

I'd think that the drag would be similar to a '67 Stang and that figure
might be readily available.

Thanks!
****************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@pine.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7, 550+Hp/474FE, Tri-Power, CR-4spd, and Nitrous. 
1962 Galaxie "G" code Sedan, 406 Tri-Power, Over-drive.
1967 3/4 Ton 400Hp/410FE 

Ain't no replacement for displacement!
****************************************************************

From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 18 12:52:20 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: 1955 Chevy
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Mench39@aol.com

Rod a straight axel will work,just look at the old footage of the drags
and see all of the straight axles being run..

I run a Butch's Rod Shop 6 1/2" dropped front straight axle under my 39
chev street rod and I think it rides as nice as any independent that
I've ridden in...Also sits real sweet...low,low,low.E-mail me as to
your progerss......Mench39@alo.com

Looking forward to hearing from ya..My 55 gets all the flames outlined
and all the other striping done this Sat.

Good luck..Ron


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 18 12:59:19 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Street/Strip dual-engine idea  (long)
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X-From: Kelly Murray 


Thanks all for the feedback on this Taurus Wagon idea.  I'm not looking
to build an expensive show car, but was looking to solve a practical
problem in an innovative way.

My problem is I want a legal NHRA SuperStreet car (runs 10's) but my
wife has a firm rule:  I only get 2 vehicles.  daily-car + tow-car +
race-car = 3, so something has to give.  The standard solution is
tow-car == daily-car (drive a truck) or a street-driven race-car.
California is quite tough on what can be street-driven.  I'd also point
out that buying a tow-truck and car trailer is not cheap, so I could
spend those dollars on the one car.

The plan would be to run the 460 on alcohol for 1/4-mile passes only.
On alcohol, I can get away running dry (no waterpump, radiator etc),
and no other front accessories either, so that shortens it up some and
simplifies things. A short powerglide trans can be used.  An IRS is out
because it isn't legal for 10's.  The Caddy FWD setup might work, but
I'm not familiar with it at all, so it's an unknown, and could mean
expensive parts fabrication.

My rough measurements indicate I can get the mid-engine setup to fit a
Taurus if I move the rear-wheels all the way to the back of the wagon.
This will look funny.  However, maybe with fender skirts covering the
stock rear-wheel openings (all smooth side, like a 50's car) it might
be OK.  The other thought is to move the engine up into the passenger
seat!  Seems like it would be too dangerous having all those spinning
parts so close to the driver though (exploding transmissions and
whatnot).

As pointed out, I can keep the front motor running in neutral to keep
the power steering, alternator charging, etc, and maintain lubrication
to the FWD trans.  I would disconnect the 460 trans when driving it on
the street.  The car would weigh a lot, making it hard to run 10's.
One thought is to run a super/turbocharger off the front-motor feeding
the 460, so the front-engine weight will earn it's 1/4-mile ride.
Sounds good, but starting to on the expensive side...

My sane plan is to build a street-legal early 60's Falcon, which is
pre-1966, so the SMOG police won't bother me, and will be a real
lightweight to make the 10.90 numbers easier with a 506ci streetable
drivetrain.  I've discussed this plan before -- I'm about to buy a '62
Falcon, so I'm moving forward with this plan.  It'll still be a radical
ride, just not quite as insane or different.  I'm sure most everyone
will agree this is the right way to go.  It'll just be a major hassle
if the car breaks at the track.

One thought is to have the Falcon tow out an empty car trailer (I'm
building one now for towing out to CA) so if things break, I can just
bum someone to pull it home for me.  Then I could use the trailer to
hold the tools, slicks, etc, as the Falcon will not have much storage
space.

-Kelly Murray  kem@franz.com  Gainesville, FL, soon Berkeley CA fulltime.
 '72 Mustang 460 12.96 @ 106.  506ci motor in progress. 


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 18 19:06:30 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re(2): 1955 Chevy
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Dan Lacey" 

Check the casting numbers on the block. I suspect that if it is an
original engine, that it has 2-bolt mains. The Vettes ran with 4-bolt
mains.

The amount that you can bore the Impala 283 was a lot less than the
Vette.  (Not 100% sure about this, but I'll go with 90%)


From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 20 14:25:03 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TVE Status
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X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)

Hi all,

A thousand apologies. I have suddenly and unexpectedly been dumped on
at work including having to hit the road for extended periods.  This
situation has not been helped much by the news that my organization has
been BRAC'd into oblivion (well actually south Philly).

I hope to get back into weekly publication on/about 10 August (I'm
going to the BY400 regardless of what else happens), and still hope to
finish out the season after that.

Again, I'm very sorry about this.  Please everyone take care.

Bill

PS for the r.a.s.n. folks. I'll be looking for the banner at Indy, so
you're forewarned ;-)
 __________________________________________________________________________
| Bill Stoffel     |    NSWCCD CODE 859        |                           |
| 410-293-9507     |    3A LEGGETT CIRCLE      |  Get well soon Stan       |
| (voice or fax)   |    ANNAPOLIS, MD 21402    |                           |
|__________________________________________________________________________|


From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 20 18:28:34 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: TVE Status
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X-From: EbelT@aol.com

Thanks for note.... know the feeling re busy. Anyway, I'm a new
subscriber so will look forward to report.

Take care and look forward to future info.

EbelT@aol.com  


From hotrod@dsea.com Thu Jul 20 18:29:02 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Digital flying eyeball  was Re: 1955 Chevy 
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X-From: jang@agames.com (Mike Jang)

[text deleted]
>have painted it candy apple red with black flames...flames all the way
>back to the rear fenders...lots of Von Dutch style pin striping and of
>course a Flying Eyeball!!!!!
[text deleted]
>bye....Ron.

Check it out at your newstand, yours truly's completely digital drawing
of the von dutch style flying eyeball.  Custom Rodder
Magazine,September issue, page 14.

Also, thanks to all for suggestions on my 350 shakes.  I'm working down
the list.

Mike  '51 Merc


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 24 12:38:26 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com

No Subject Line
Reply-to: hotrod@dsea.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Jul 24 1995 09:01:20
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From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 24 12:40:09 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: MOPAR Question:  Camshaft timing
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dodge68B@aol.com

I am currently fixing up a '68 Coronet with a 383 MAGNUM/ TF727/3.55
rear.  The engine is in the process of being rebuilt.  The cam I have
is a .509 lift with a 292 duration.  The final compression ratio should
be between 9.5 and 10 depending on how much milling is done to the
block and heads.  The car will be running a single plane intake, 750
cfm carb, and 1.75" headers.  the transmission is getting an 11" T.C.
and a 4.10 gear to finish it off.  The car will see weekend street duty
along with some strip action.  My question is if the cam should be
installed at "0" or possibly 2 or 4 degrees retarded.  A friend of mine
(one of those Chevy guys) says to install it "retarded" to bring the
RPM range down to more of a "street" range.  All of that makes sense
but he has never messed with MOPARS.  Is there anyone out there running
a setup similar to the one I am planning??  If so, any comments or
advice would be greatly appreciated.

THANKS IN ADVANCE


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 25 12:14:49 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MOPAR Question:  Camshaft timing
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X-From: paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Pete Paraska)

>  The car will see weekend street duty
>along with some strip action.  My question is if the cam should be
>installed at "0" or possibly 2 or 4 degrees retarded.  A friend of mine
>(one of those Chevy guys) says to install it "retarded" to bring the
>RPM range down to more of a "street" range.  All of that makes sense
>but he has never messed with MOPARS.

Straight up (0 degrees) or advanced would be more advantageous
on the street since you would get better low rpm torque.
This is true, regardless of engine make :).
~~ Pete (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) | 73 IZCC#15 | Laurel,Maryland~~


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 25 12:14:54 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: your mail
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X-From: Tom Reid 

If you retard the cam a few degrees, it will result in a stronger top
end. Advancing it will give you a stronger low end. It depends on what
you want.  I would highly recommend buying or borrowing a degree wheel
to degree the cam in upon installation. With that amount of lift and
292 duration, I personally would want the lower end stronger for the
street and some mild bracket racing since the tracks in my area are
one-eighth mile.


From hotrod@dsea.com Tue Jul 25 12:16:39 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: vacuum gauge
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X-From: hubble@agames.com (Pat Hubbell)

Can you tell me what engine related problems can be diagnosed using a
vacuum gauge? also can you tune an engine for max. performance using a
vacuum gauge?  I've heard that optimum ignition timing can be obtained
with the highest vacuum reading.  Is this true, and if so does the same
rule of thumb apply to idle speed mixture and valve adjustment? thanks


From hotrod@dsea.com Wed Jul 26 14:20:50 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: vacuum gauge
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X-From: Xlr8888888@aol.com

Look for vacuum readings at idle of at least 15" of vacuum. Higher is
better..........never a problem to have too much vacuum! probably won't
see much more than 18". Make sure you take your readings directly from
the intake manifold.

Fluctuating gage readings mean valve problems. Gage usually "wags"
pretty wildly when this is the case. Like 0- max etc.   Low vacuum
probably means a vacuum leak. Leaks show up mostly in dried out or
unplugged vacuum hoses.  Often you can hear the sound when the engine
is running. If not, un plug lines one at a time and place your finger
over the source(nipple) and look at the gage to see if the reading went
up. If so replace the hose first, if there is no improvement, you may
have a part that is run by vacuum that leaks. Pull the hose off the
part and see if the reading goes up on the gage.

Sometimes the leak is at the place where the intake manifold attatches
to the cylinder head. This is very common. Carefully pour small amounts
of gasoline where the manifold meets the head. If the engine smooths
out you have a bad gasket.

Timing.............I'll get alot of flak about this method....but it
works for me.  First........determine which way to turn your
distributor in order to advance the timing. If you have any kind of
manual see which way your distributor turns, clockwise or counter clock
wise.  To advance timing you will have to turn the distributor body
opposite the way it turns. Scratch a mark on the distributor and the
intake manifold to make it easy to return exactly where you started
should you want to. Now loosen the bolt that holds down the
distributor. Loosen it just enough to turn the distributor, if you put
moderate effort into turning it. Make sure you line up to the scratch
mark after you try your hand at turning the distributor.            Now
start the engine and drive around getting it up to operating
temperature. Find the steepest hill around..........no hills?  Still
OK. Just an insurance that the engine will labor as much as possible.
OK..........advance the distributor a little with the engine running.
>From your scratch mark, this will be maybe 1/4 to 1/2 an inch. Get in
the car. From a stop, nail it going up the hill, or straight a way.
What you want to listen for is "ping" or "knock" in the engine. Sounds
like "marbles in the motor". Keep advancing the timing, testing the
car, advancing the timing, testing the car, until you get this
sound.     Once this happens.......you know you advanced the timing a
little too much. Now carefully go the other way just a little and test
again................when you back off just right to eliminate
"ping".............you have the maximum advance your engine will
tolerate! You should really notice a difference in performance.   The
poor mans Dyno!  Works For Me!


From hotrod@dsea.com Sun Jul 30 22:24:21 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: MOPAR or Streetrod Clubs 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dodge68B@aol.com

Looking for point of contact for a MOPAR (first preference)  or
Streetrod club in Ft. Lauderdale, FL area.

For any MOPAR resto people, I have 3 AM thumbwheel and 1 AM/FM
thumbwheel radios for sale.  

THANKS

From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 31 19:20:21 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Big block Chevy
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X-From: NOELGA@aol.com

Hi 

Has anyone built a 572 with a blower and a BDS Bugchacher to run on
gas?  I want to build an all steel motor and use reverse cooling.  I
don't know how to set up reverse cooling can anyone help?  I am
thinking about building a 64 - 65 chevelle for fastest street car in
Am.  I am looking for a chevelle two door with posts.  

Thanks Noel

[ I hope you have a trust fund....  

As I mentioned in an earlier post, 64/65 Chevelles are not hard
to come by in SoCal.  With $20,000 I could probably buy 5 this
week.  What, please tell me, are these "posts"?  Do you mean
doors with metalic surrounds?  Like on the '64 Malibu Wagon?
I know of a '64 Series 300 wagon with this setup and two doors,
but it is a RARE vehical.  

For starters, you probably want a heavy frame model: a taxi, 
convertable, or SS car.  A 2 door I6 taxis would be a good start,
but few, if any, were produced.  More likely you can find a 
plain old car, and put in a cage and massage the firewall and 
tranny tunnel.

Chevy Power ( or something like that, the one from GM ) published 
an article late last year on the Mark V Racing Big Block.  This would
be the iron block to start with.

Does anybody have an idea what a competitive drive train costs
for FSCA?  Would $10,000 do it?  --FEP ]


From hotrod@dsea.com Mon Jul 31 19:36:33 1995
From: Hotrod List 
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: GM Power top trivia...
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X-From: Bob Valentine 

Just a little tidbit for anyone with GM ragtops:

   The power top motor used on most 68-72 GM A-bodies is almost identical 
to those used on the late 80's/early 90's GM J-body (Cavalier, Sunbird, ect) 
ragtops...  hose connections and mounts are the same as the ones on my 
'71 Cutlass.   

   I picked one up at a salvage yard from a '91 Cavalier for $40.  If you 
get one, try and get the power relay for it (mounted right next to the 
pump), since it will save wear-and-tear on the factory power top switch.  
I converted my old non-relay setup a few years ago when the switch went 
bad and I couldn't find a replacement.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"