From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 15:16:32 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RESTORATION-RUST CONVERTER OR SANDBLASTING
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: corroseal@aol.com (Corroseal)
Content-Length: 283

[I am ] looking for non toxic rust converter that is water base and 
solvent free that works in place of sandblasting.

[ There are a few products on the market that reduce rust.  I am not
sure if any of them are water based.  Off the top of my head I cannot
think of one.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 16:11:35 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
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X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 1135

   My earlier posting about what my configuration will be, is now
obsolete! In the process of trying to modify the old Weiand manifold I
put a small crack in one of the back water outlets, still a usable
manifold, just not for what I was going to do.
   So I called BDS for a new manifold. The quetion was asked: how much does
a manifold cost? Answer: $300
   The "New" configuration will be:
a BDS manifold using a convetional water neck and radiator hose to the main
radiator, the 4 row 27"x19". Plus there is a 3/8" pipe thread in the front 
of the manifold, next to the water neck, I will drill and tap a second and
run 2 AN-8 lines to the auxillary radiator, the 3 row 20"x14". This second
radiator will still be picked up by the heater hose connection on the water
pump through a AN-10 line.
   Now all the water will come out the front of the manifold!!! I've got a 
used manifold for sale, Cheap!

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 16:11:36 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject:       Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Mark Blunier" 
Content-Length: 1051

> >This is a complex field.  The practical solution to cooling problems
> >is to get a big radiator, a good thermostat, and a few big fans.
> >--FEP ]
> 
> Amen.  But also, a hefty water pump and large size hoses!  There's no
> such thing as too much circulation.
> 
I'm glad somebody else has come to my defense.  Even after the 
original explanation I still didn't understand.  As a side note, even 
if high flow could be a problem with loss of cooling, it would only 
be a problem for dragging.  In a normal situation, as the engine 
heated up, the thermostat would open up, and provide more cooling.  
If it opened up to the point where a loss of cooling capacity occors 
(if this phenomenon happens), then the engine is already putting out 
more heat than can cooled by the radiator, so its going to overheat, 
it then becomes a question of sooner or later.

Mark W. Blunier
  
yarvin@cs.yale.edu >   "Treason doth never prosper, what's the reason?
>    For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."
>     --Sir John Harrington, 1561-1612
> 
> 

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 16:28:13 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Pollution controls
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X-From: Wydopn@aol.com
Content-Length: 1334

I am interested in learning about how modern and future pollution controls
are effecting how much a person will be able to "hot rod" a vehicle and still
be able to legally drive it on a road.  Please write here or answer by
e-mail.

[ This issue is as hard and complex as you want to make it.  I find
that there are two general rules.  Rule one is "buy pre-1966 and do
whatever you want".  Rule two is "buy 1966 and later and retain all 
OEM pollution control, and make sure it works."  I suppose rule three
could be "have two engines, an inspection engine and a performance 
engine."

I have taken the pre-1966 route.

The coming of good EFI has made it so it is possible to have
performance and clean air, but the regulatory bodies have not yet
caught up.  

Only recently here in CA ( I think it was November ) did a ruling come
down permitting extra pollution control equipment on an old car.  For
example, it is now permissable to put catalytic converters on your
1967 Thunderbird.  There is still a mess if you want to put (lets say)
EFI on that Thunderbird -- everything along the line need CARB
approval.  And CARB has no relavance in say, Maine.

If you look at other areas of hotrodding, like chassis, body,
suspension and tire work, you can still do a great deal.

Others will have further information -- I hope.

--FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 16:37:32 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-49*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 10249

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now ending its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation 
of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, 
my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

MotoWorld II                          12/30    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE GP, BARCELONA (T) 12/30    7:00-8:00PM      ESPN2
MotoWorld II                          12/31    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 12/31    7:00-8:30AM      EMPS,
					   MSG,PSN,PSNW,PSN2,SCOH,SCP
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/31    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (ball joints&idlers12/31    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             12/31    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NASCAR Today                          12/31    11:00-11:30AM    ESPN
MotorWeek                             12/31    12:30-1:00PM     WUSA
LEGENDS, DAYTONA (T)                  12/31    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN2
Movie: Stroker Ace                    12/31    1:00-3:00PM      WGN
Legacy Of Champions                   12/31    2:00-3:00PM      MSG
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/31    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Legacy Of Champions                   12/31    2:30-3:30PM      EMPS,
						    KBL,PSN,SCNE,SCOH
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/31    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Secrets Of Speed (Emo)                12/31    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN2
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/31    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINSTON SELECT, POMONA (T)      12/31    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
Motor Sports Awards                   12/31    5:00-6:00PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (VW VR6 & ragtop bimmer)    12/31    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 12/31    10:00-11:30PM    PRTK
			     Happy New Year!
Movie: Smokey & The Bandit            01/01    4:00-6:00AM      WBFF
Shadetree Mechanic (ball joints&idlers01/01    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Force & Kalita)  01/01    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/01    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/01    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/01   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
SODA Year In Review                   01/01    12:00-1:00PM     ESPN2
IROC Year In Review                   01/01    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN2
NASCAR Year In Review                 01/01    2:00-2:30PM      ESPN2
N Bonnett's Winners (Force & Kalita)  01/01    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR Year In Review                01/01    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN2
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/01    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
F1 Year In Review                     01/01    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN2
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/01    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP Year In Review       01/01    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN2
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, PHOENIX (T)         01/01    4:00-5:25PM      TNN
IMSA Year In Review                   01/01    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN2
AAA MODIFIED CHAPIONSHIP (T)          01/01    5:00-6:00PM      SCNY
Peterson Automotive Museum            01/01    5:00-6:00PM      HSE
TNN Motorsports Moments               01/01    5:25-5:30PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (ball joints&idlers01/01    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/01    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/01    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/01    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/01    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Peterson Automotive Museum            01/01   11:00PM-12:00AM   PSN2
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 01/01   11:30PM-1:00AM    PRTK
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/01   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
TNN Motorsports Moments               01/02    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
Sports Cavalcade (swamp buggies)      01/02    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             01/02    12:05-12:35AM    WJZ
Peterson Automotive Museum            01/02    1:00-2:00AM      EMPS,
							     PSN,SCOH
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/02    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
AAA MODIFIED CHAPIONSHIP (T)          01/02    2:30-3:30AM      SCNY
Monster Trucks                        01/02    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
10th Anniversary MotoWorld            01/02    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
CHECKERED FLAG SERIES (T)             01/02    7:00-8:00PM      SCNY
SCORE, BAJA 500 (T)                   01/02    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN2
Thrills & Spills                      01/02    8:30-9:00PM      ESPN2
Movie: Speedway (the one with Elvis)  01/02    9:00-10:35PM     DIS
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/02   11:00PM-12:00AM   SCOH
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/03    12:00-1:00AM     SUN
Monster Trucks                        01/03    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/03    7:00-8:00PM      PASS
Peterson Automotive Museum            01/03    10:00-11:00PM    SPTS
The Power & The Glory (1906 Indy)     01/04    12:30-1:00PM     HIST
The Power & The Glory (1906 Indy)     01/04    5:30-6:00PM      HIST
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/04   11:00PM-12:00AM   SPTS
LEGENDS, DAYTONA (T)                  01/05    2:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MotoWorld                             01/05    3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
MICKEY T OFF-ROAD GP, LAS VEGAS (T)   01/05    4:00-5:00AM      ESPN
F1 Year In Review (maybe ;-)          01/05    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
FIRESTONE FIREHAWK, SEBRING (T)       01/05    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN2
BRIDGESTONE SUPERCAR, SEBRING (T)     01/05    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN2
FIRESTONE FIREHAWK, SEBRING (T)       01/05    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN2
BRIDGESTONE SUPERCAR, SEBRING (T)     01/05    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN2
Peterson Automotive Museum            01/06    12:30-1:30AM     PRTK
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/06    1:00-2:00AM      HSE
Auto Shop                             01/06    1:00-2:00AM      QVC
Monster Trucks                        01/06    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
IROC Year In Review                   01/06    1:30-2:30PM      ESPN
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/06    2:30-3:30PM      HTS
SpeedWeek                             01/07    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
MotoWorld                             01/07    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/07    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Movie: Winning                        01/07    3:00-6:00AM      WBFF
SpeedWeek                             01/07    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
WoO, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)          01/07    9:00-10:30AM     TNN
MotorWeek (Crown Vic & Jag XJ)        01/07    5:00-5:30PM      MPT

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

Formula 1 Year In Review              01/08    9:00AM           TSN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, TUCSON (L)        01/08    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
CARS, RALLYE CHARLEVOIX (T)           01/08    5:00PM           TSN
WoO, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)          01/14    9:30-11:00AM     TNN
CARS, TALL PINES RALLY (T)            01/15    1:30PM           TSN
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, TUCSON (L)          01/15    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS, ATLANTA (T) 01/16    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
NASCAR WINSTON WEST, TUCSON (L)       01/22    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30PM           TNN
NASCAR, BUSCH CLASH (?)               02/12    tba              tba
IROC #1, DAYTONA                      02/15 (live coverage is unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)  :-)   :-)   02/19    tba              CBS
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/26    tba              TNN

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
DIS      The Disney Channel
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HIST     The History Channel
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"
WRC      Washington, DC
WUSA     Washington, DC
-------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 21:02:36 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Seats
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1171

I have re-foamed, re-covered, refurbished and really quite nice seats
in my '64 Chevelle.  But, I've made quite an improovment in the car's
turning ability, and have reached the limits of the stock seats.
I cannot drive the car anywhere near its new limits with the stock
seats.  Also, after seeing the results of my wife getting rear-ended
in our Saturn the other day, I again realize the value of headrests.

I am considering two brands of seats.  Sure, I'd like new big buck seats,
but I'm looking at the Dee Sport Seats ( Dee Engineering, Costa Mesa CA ) 
and the Cerullo Pro-Driver Seats in the Summit catalog.  

Any body got any suggestions?  Neither company seems to have A-body 
kits for installation. Grrr.

I'd like a cloth seat that reclines and folds and can take good
belts.  Black is the likely color.

I'll be going to Pomona this weekend ( I hope ) and would like to keep
any other brands/ideas in mind.  Thanks.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 22:33:49 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 663

Skedadl writes, apparently in response to my tale of woe concerning
World Products heads:

>I bought a set of World Products S/R Replacements for my 350 s/b Chev.
>These came with 1.94 intakes, 1.50 exhausts, otherwise bare.  I had a
>good machine shop cut 2.02 intakes, flow the bowls, replace the guides,
>install screw-in studs and pushrod guide plates, good springs, etc.
>They work fine for me.  Never any problems.

Ah!  So you bought castings and had them finished yourself.

My story is a bit different - I relied on the World Products
advertising which claimed that the heads were ready to drop in
and run.  They weren't.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 22:38:59 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
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X-From: mpitts@vnet.IBM.COM
Content-Length: 717

*** Reply to note of 01/03/95 17:01
From: Mike Pitts

Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow

Hi,

Is there anyone on this list who knows anything about modifying a 1986
GM 1.8L turbo engine?  It's in a Pontiac Sunbird Conv. GT.

I know this is an oxymoron (hotrodding a 1.8L).  But this thing's a *DOG*.

I know the usual things like going with a K&N, opening up the exhaust,
increasing fuel pressure(?).  What I'd like to know: Is there an intercooler
kit for this car?  Are there aftermarket EPROMS available for this car?

Thanks,
-Mike

Mike Pitts                           INET.: mpitts@vnet.ibm.com
Phone.: (407) 443-5703               VM...: V1PITTS@BCRVM1
Fax...: (407) 443-7785               CIS..: 71736,446


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 22:47:36 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Identify this hotrodable engine?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: met@pine.cse.nau.edu (MTN-KAT)
Content-Length: 1114

I was at a friends engine shop yesterday, on a stand he had a _very_
interesting engine. He doesn't know what it came out of or what brand
it is, so I'll give a description.  6 cylinder Vee 60 degree block,
very narrow the crank is held in by a nice hefty girdle/cap casting,
looks like STEEL!  Crank is offset for the rods, similar to the
odd-fire buick only more pronounced good strong rods, also look like
steel forgings Overhead cam system run by a long belt, configured
somewhat by like a 427 SOHC Aluminum heads with oval ports for exhaust,
covered by almost vette looking rocker covers.  It has some japamoto
scribbling on the id sticker, no english markings.

The whole thing looks like a very strong lower and the heads could
probably be made to flow real well. Getting parts may be a problem,
neither Ken nor I could identify the thing so its probable that the
parts houses wouldn't have the foggiest.....  With that girdle system
the engine could be made to rev to almost astronomical heights. :)

Any ideas?

Millam

[ Is it that new VW narrow vee engine used in the latests hi-po
Sirracco?   --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 22:53:15 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Pollution controls
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Lawrence E. Piekarski" 
Content-Length: 1381

> 
> I am interested in learning about how modern and future pollution controls
> are effecting how much a person will be able to "hot rod" a vehicle and still
> be able to legally drive it on a road.  Please write here or answer by
> e-mail.

In short, they will be making it more difficult to do anything, not only to
keep in emmisions legal, but to keep in running at all. CARB and the EPA are
continuing to increase the demands on the engine controllers to detect and
report emissions ralated failures, and as a result the engine controllers and
the software have become more and more complicated. They have also regulated
that in some instances, certains failures do something drastic, as in disable
fuel, instead of just turning on a "Check Engine" tell-tale.

As the car evolves from a distinct engine, transmission, steering, brakes, and
suspension to an integrated vehicle chassis, any modification to the engine
may result in something really weird happening (or not happening) in the rest
of the car.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Larry Piekarski                           c1ilep@kocrsv01.delcoelect.com
Software Engineer, Air Controls            Delco Electronics, Kokomo, IN

527ci Big Block Chevy      "The bare minumum       454ci Big Block Chevy 
389ci Big Block Ford       is wretched excess"               1.9L Saturn



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 22:53:31 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Pollution controls
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 1518

Frank writes:

>The coming of good EFI has made it so it is possible to have
>performance and clean air, but the regulatory bodies have not yet
>caught up.  
>
>Only recently here in CA ( I think it was November ) did a ruling come
>down permitting extra pollution control equipment on an old car.  For
>example, it is now permissable to put catalytic converters on your
>1967 Thunderbird.  There is still a mess if you want to put (lets say)
>EFI on that Thunderbird -- everything along the line need CARB
>approval.

Yes, it's a mess in California.  As I understand it, you have to
meet the specs for whatever is newest on the car - a 1967 Camaro
with a TPI would have to meet TPI specs for its year and that
would probably mean a catalytic converter as well as a bunch of
other stuff would be required.

I take particular offense at this requirement because it means
that I can't make incremental improvements.  If, for example,
I wish to install a fuel injection system on my 1970 car (which
would improve the mileage and would make a small reduction in
HC and CO [both of these are already very low]) then I have to
install all the other garbage associated with the FI: AIR pump,
catalytic converter, go to a single exhaust, fancy carbon cannister,
etc.

>And CARB has no relavance in say, Maine.

I'm not so sure about that.  The EPA has agreed that it will
accept California requirements in lieu of federal requirements;
presumably, anything that CARB approves is OK nationwide.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 23:11:33 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cooling and Engine Timing
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X-From: Tom Carver 
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Speaking of trying to keep engine's running cool:

I noticed with all of my hotrods that if I tried to set the timing to factory
specs, that the engine would overheat (and also run lousy).  I found out that
whenever I installed a "hotrod" camshaft, that I would always have to
re-curve the distributor and run with at least 10 degrees advance.  If I
would try to run it at say 4 degrees advance, the engine would run hotter.
Once I mistakenly had the timing at about 10 degrees retarded -- it just
barely ran, and I quickly noticed that the headers were glowing cherry red
right next to the heads!

So, basically, I'm just trying to say that sometimes when you think your
cooling system is inadequate, it might just be that your timing's off or
you've got a vacuum leak or something like that.

Also, I've noticed that brand new engines run a little hot until they've been
broken in and have 1,000 miles or so on 'em.

In my '54 Chevy with a pumped up 350, I'm running with the stock, original
radiator that was meant for a 235-6.  As long as I get the timing and fuel
mixture right, it runs cool.  I took the themostat housing off the old 235-6,
and it's a direct swap with the V-8 style, except that it has a smaller
nipple on it which matches the inlet nipple on the stock radiator.  The old
thermostat housing also points the nipple straight up.

I put a JAZ overflow tank on it, but so far it's only caught a little
dribble.

I was pretty amazed that that 40 year old radiator could do the job.

The grille on the '54 is like a gigantic mouth which gathers up huge amounts
of air, so that probably helps out a lot (when you're moving).

Tom


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 23:14:28 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Emission controls and the IM240 test.
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
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>[ This issue is as hard and complex as you want to make it.  I find
>that there are two general rules.  Rule one is "buy pre-1966 and do
>whatever you want".  Rule two is "buy 1966 and later and retain all 
>OEM pollution control, and make sure it works."  I suppose rule three
>could be "have two engines, an inspection engine and a performance 
>engine."

Well some states have taken a more progressive route.  By this I mean thier 
testing standards.

Maryland will no longer do a 'visual' inspection.  They will only check the car 
to make sure that the car is safe to go on the chassis dyno.  They will also 
make sure you have no exhaust leak.

They will only test 1978 and newer cars.

They will test to insure your vapor controls system doesn't have a leak.

during the IM240 test they will monitor:
Vapor canister purge amounts
NOx
CO
CO2
HC

The test has two phases - if the total emission exceed the maximum level for 
any one phase you fail.  In theory you could have a car that is dirty on 
acceleration but is very clean on coast and deccel and still pass the test.

So with carefull tuning you should be able to have full power at WOT and 
minimal emissions everywhere else.  This also means that they can't tell if you 
have aftermarket heads etc.

But if you think you can run 12:1 compression and no EGR and pass all the tests 
your dreaming...

Some states also have the provisions for "alternative fuels".  In maryland, at 
least before this year, you had to go to a 'judge' station or something to 
prove alternative fuel use.

I personally think the above rules are more than reasonable.  Every state 
should adopt a similar plan.

I wonder, does anyone have an idea on what it takes to get an EO number?  Seems 
to me if the chassis dyno says you pass the IM240 test you should be able to 
get an EO number for almost any modification.

Think everything is rosey in Maryland - well MD charges junk yards something 
like $3 a day for any car over a certain age - end result - no old cars in 
Maryland junk yards....
At least according to a NASA local old car collector...

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan  3 23:16:10 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Rust converter
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 2603


[I am ] looking for non toxic rust converter that is water base and 
solvent free that works in place of sandblasting.

For rust there are basically two things you can get chemically.  One is the 
rust converter which is in one form or another the same as Navel Jelly.  This 
chemically alters the rust to something that is hard and supposidly a good 
surface.  For best results the surface should be cleaned of all loose rust.
This stuff has never fully worked for me and I don't even bother anymore.  It 
is very difficult to get all the layers of rust chemically treated.  The upper 
layers prevent the chemical from reaching the lower ones - thus allowing the 
rust to survive...

Another alternative is the surface prep solutions by names like 'metal prep' 
etc.  They are all some form of Phosphoric Acid and can be dilluted with water 
- use enough water and it becomes harmless (at least it stops burning your skin
....).  My best luck with this stuff has been to apply it with a stainless 
steel wool pad and a cup full of the stuff.  This is more of a rust wash - it 
will help wash away rusted metal.  It works best if the metal is clean - only 
the metal and rust remaining.  This seems to leave a white residue.  Read the 

For such chemicals contact:

The eastwood company (see the auto-info list).
Your local body shop.

**** As always read the safety messages and instructions on these chemicals.

Ultimatly - for heavy gauge metals - like a car frame - sand blasting works 
well.  It also provides a good clean surface for which the new paint can make a 
good mechanical bond.

For light gauge - like sheet metal - try baking soda instead of sand.  There 
are plenty of media out there that can remove paint and rust without hammering 
the sheetmetal.  The standard demo is to 'media' blast an aluminum can - 
removing the paint but leaving the can fresh.  For light rust a slightly 
stronger media can be used.

I haven't gone to far in my research, but locally you should be able to find a 
place that can dip an entire car.  Some forms of the "dip" will actually 
lighten the car.  But I'm sure they have more gentle dips that will clean with 
removing too much of the metal.  You may also be able to find a place that can 
galvanize larger objects.  Many boat trailers are galvanized...

For things like engine components - very heavy gauge steel - I personally like 
the machine shop hot tank followed by bead blasting - the closest thing to new 
- works great on aluminum manifolds - leaves them slightly shiny as opposed to 
sand blasting's white finish.

Hope this helps
Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 13:47:49 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Phone number?
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X-From: "Robert Gallant"  
Content-Length: 133

Does anyone know the phone number for Dayco.  I need to order one of their poly 
cog belts.

Thanks

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 14:14:08 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: RESTORATION-RUST CONVERTE...
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X-From: VinnyJr@aol.com
Content-Length: 479

I have heard about a paint removal procedure using a high-pressure sprayer
with baking soda.  I expect that this is water soluble, but I don't know what
its effect on rust would be.  

I've seen a few articles in various magazines on its implimentation, but
offhand the only refference I have is in the February '95 issue of Popular
Hot Rodding.  They are building a Pro Street '55 Chevy and had Drezek
Environmental Stripping Systems in CA do the body prep for painting.
-- VJ


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 15:09:43 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
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X-From: David Cooley 
Content-Length: 793



On Tue, 3 Jan 1995, Hotrod List wrote:

> *** Reply to note of 01/03/95 17:01
> From: Mike Pitts
> 
> Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Is there anyone on this list who knows anything about modifying a 1986
> GM 1.8L turbo engine?  It's in a Pontiac Sunbird Conv. GT.
> 
> I know this is an oxymoron (hotrodding a 1.8L).  But this thing's a *DOG*.
> 
> I know the usual things like going with a K&N, opening up the exhaust,
> increasing fuel pressure(?).  What I'd like to know: Is there an intercooler
> kit for this car?  Are there aftermarket EPROMS available for this car?
> 
> Thanks,
> -Mike


   Mike,
Try Hypertech for the chip (901) 382-8888
and you might try Spearco to see if they have an intercooler kit... 
They are in California... (818) 785-4362
Later,
Dave



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 15:19:31 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Identify this hotrodable ...
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X-From: ETRobW@aol.com
Content-Length: 1054

Can you tell # of valves / cylinder?

How many exhaust ports (siamesed?)

Can you tell if the casting configuration of the block is for a front-wheel
drive transaxle?

How old is this thing?

There's markings on it somewhere, I guaran-damn-tee it. Look under the cam
covers.

In my opinion, if your local guy who does motors for a living can't even
identify it, you are probably best to stay away. Maybe you can put a piece of
plate glass on top of it and use it as a coffee table!

What is the application?

Assuming you are building a rear drive american street car, And if your heart
is set on a V-6 configuration motor, there is no better way to go (again, in
my opinion)  than the V-6 Buick (T-type, GN, Etc.) as far as availability of
rebuildable core blocks, aftermarket parts availability, general accessible
knowledge (an important one), and power output vs.displacement/package
weight.----Not to mention MPG!

See what else you can find out about that engine, though. maybe you have some
super-rare factory race-shop hybrid animal, who knows?


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 15:34:48 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:identify this engine
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X-From: FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Content-Length: 131

Maybe this engine is the Mazda v-6 that is installed in the their MX-3
sports coupe.
It is 1.8 litres and revs like crazy.

Frank


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 15:45:11 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Pollution controls
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X-From: walter@quattro.corp.inmet.com (Walter Meares)
Content-Length: 730


> 
> Yes, it's a mess in California.  As I understand it, you have to
> meet the specs for whatever is newest on the car - a 1967 Camaro
> with a TPI would have to meet TPI specs for its year and that
> would probably mean a catalytic converter as well as a bunch of
> other stuff would be required.

I don't think the cat is required unless the car originally had one -- this is
a safety issue because of the heat/fire potential from a converter that is not
mounted in a safe location.  But I've been out of CA 4 years now, so that law
may have changed.

> Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com
> 
> 

Walter
--
Walter Meares		Intermetrics, Inc.	walter@inmet.com
Information Systems	733 Concord Ave		Cambridge MA 02138
(617) 661-1840



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 15:50:26 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Emission controls and the IM240 test.
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X-From: David Cooley 
Content-Length: 928



On Tue, 3 Jan 1995, Hotrod List wrote:

> Maryland will no longer do a 'visual' inspection.  They will only check the car 
> to make sure that the car is safe to go on the chassis dyno.  They will also 
> make sure you have no exhaust leak.
> 
> They will only test 1978 and newer cars.
> 
> They will test to insure your vapor controls system doesn't have a leak.
> 
> during the IM240 test they will monitor:
> Vapor canister purge amounts
> NOx
> CO
> CO2
> HC
> 
> The test has two phases - if the total emission exceed the maximum level for 
> any one phase you fail.  In theory you could have a car that is dirty on 
> acceleration but is very clean on coast and deccel and still pass the test.

   On a side note... If you have a AWD vehicle, you are exempt from IM240 
dyno tests... Their dyno can only test 2 wheel drive vehicles.
(I see alot of diamond star turbo's being bought in the near future...)
Later,
Dave



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 15:54:25 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
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X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 1121

> Skedadl writes, apparently in response to my tale of woe concerning
> World Products heads:
> 
> >I bought a set of World Products S/R Replacements for my 350 s/b Chev.
> >These came with 1.94 intakes, 1.50 exhausts, otherwise bare.  I had a
> >good machine shop cut 2.02 intakes, flow the bowls, replace the guides,
> >install screw-in studs and pushrod guide plates, good springs, etc.
> >They work fine for me.  Never any problems.
> 
> Ah!  So you bought castings and had them finished yourself.
> 
> My story is a bit different - I relied on the World Products
> advertising which claimed that the heads were ready to drop in
> and run.  They weren't.
> 
> Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

	Though I bought a pair of sportsmans back when they were the only
	heads dart offered, and I did nothing to them and had no noticable
	trouble (drag car only) I was told by my local machine shop that
	the guides ALWAYS need to be redone. (He is a pretty straight up 
	sort of person too, never tries to "sell" you something.)

	My $.02

Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 16:00:27 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: the 6 inch olds rod
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X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 1202


	Any of you ever have any dealings with Performance Auto in 
	Mesquite Texas?
	I bought a set of "done" 6 inch olds rods from them for my 
	chevy, bushed for a chevy pin. I finally get around to doing
	a trial assembly to check piston to valve, and deck height, 
	and find that 4 rods are bent (or machined wrong) so badly
	that there is almost 1/8 inch difference in deck across one 
	of the pistons.
	Ok, all is not lost yet, because the person I spoke to 
	quite readily and helpfully said send them back and we'll take
	care of it, BUT that many bad parts out of 8 looks like I 
	received stuff pulled from the reject pile. 

	They advertised in Natl Dragster, and it looked like a decent
	way to quickly get a 6 inch rod for my 406. A little looking 
	around locally, and no one kept any olds cores in stock, and 
	I didnt feel like buying a bunch of olds engines til I got enough
	good cores to give to a shop to redo for me. 
	(Further, I dont even know what engines to select. The rods I 
	had, had an "xc" cast on the beam.)

	Anyone have any past experience with these people? (Good/bad?)

	Thanks...



Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 16:00:40 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Identify this hotrodable engine?
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X-From: David Cooley 
Content-Length: 1358



On Tue, 3 Jan 1995, Hotrod List wrote:

> I was at a friends engine shop yesterday, on a stand he had a _very_
> interesting engine. He doesn't know what it came out of or what brand
> it is, so I'll give a description.  6 cylinder Vee 60 degree block,
> very narrow the crank is held in by a nice hefty girdle/cap casting,
> looks like STEEL!  Crank is offset for the rods, similar to the
> odd-fire buick only more pronounced good strong rods, also look like
> steel forgings Overhead cam system run by a long belt, configured
> somewhat by like a 427 SOHC Aluminum heads with oval ports for exhaust,
> covered by almost vette looking rocker covers.  It has some japamoto
> scribbling on the id sticker, no english markings.
> 
> The whole thing looks like a very strong lower and the heads could
> probably be made to flow real well. Getting parts may be a problem,
> neither Ken nor I could identify the thing so its probable that the
> parts houses wouldn't have the foggiest.....  With that girdle system
> the engine could be made to rev to almost astronomical heights. :)
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Millam
> 
> [ Is it that new VW narrow vee engine used in the latests hi-po
> Sirracco?   --FEP ]
> 
> 
   Millam,
It sounds like the honda/acura V6.  The VW V6 is a 13 degree VEE.  The 
honda/acura motor is VERY strong. (for a small V6...)
Later,
Dave



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 16:08:13 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: RESTORATION-RUST CONVERTE...
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X-From: ETRobW@aol.com
Content-Length: 1786

Having had many years of rust repair experience, let me tell you one thing
right off the bat-

Rust converters only slow down the corrosion/oxidation reaction.

Bearing this in mind, use rust converters only in those instances where
sandblasting/abrading of corroded sheetmetal is not possible, (perhaps deep
inside a door) and I can ONLY recommend using them when you can sandblast or
otherwise abrade the sheetmetal as free of corrosion as you possibly can. I
have used several types, and the best I've found is available right at your
local hardware store, Rustoleum brand. It is water soluble when wet, and can
be thinned with water, also.

I would HIGHLY reccommend that you get access to a sandblaster (rentals are
not expensive when you consider what this tool is going to do for you) and
use it to remove ALL TRACES of corrosion from the item to be repaired. you
need to have a clean, gray, blasted surface, completely free of tiny black
specks where corrosion is still active. If neccessary, use a small grinder,
such as a Dremel tool or die grinder, to gently grid out the specks. Of
course, If corrosion is rampant, and more than 1/3 of the way through the
sheetmetal thickness, you should replace sheetmetal.

After you remove all traces of rust from the sheetmetal, Use Ditzler
Metalprep solution to etch the sheetmetal. fill plastic filler as required to
profile. Prime shortly thereafter with Ditzler's DP-40 family of Epoxy
primers. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's safety guidelines when applying
these products. DP40 is fairly nasty stuff.

from there, you have a compatible base for most any automotive paint
system.(though to avoid potential for problems, stick with one paint system
throughout. your local automotive paint supply should be able to guide you-)


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 18:52:10 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Identify this hotrodable engine?
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X-From: Luis Maclean 
Content-Length: 314

> it is, so I'll give a description.  6 cylinder Vee 60 degree block,
> Millam
>
> [ Is it that new VW narrow vee engine used in the latests hi-po
> Scirocco?   --FEP ]

No, The VW motor is a 15 degree inline-vee which uses one head. Otherwise, I am
clueless too.

Luis MacLean
lmaclean@magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 19:00:15 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: GM Sumbird Turbo
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X-From: Jim Conforti 
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On Wed, 4 Jan 1995, Hotrod List wrote:

> Is there anyone on this list who knows anything about modifying a 1986
> GM 1.8L turbo engine?  It's in a Pontiac Sunbird Conv. GT.

  Mike .. I have the GM Docs (naughty me) on this engine .. what do you 
  want to know ... 

  Actually it's from an 87 (I think) Sunbird 1.8l PFI Turbo engine

  Theory, Cal Docs, etc ...

  What would you like to increase/decrease, and can you get an image of the
  stock prom ..

  Jim Conforti
  




From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 19:11:06 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Lil John's Place
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1803

Having waited a few months for the any activty to die down after the 
article in Cycle World, co-worker DPL and I decided to go to John Buttera's
shop today at lunch.

It was closer, smaller and simpler than we though.  Getting there consisted
of taking a left out of the parking lot, reading the map, driving a few
minutes and taking a left onto Metzler lane.  The shop was small!  I'd
say 50' by 50' by 20' high.  

On the floor there was on Indy car and about 15 LJ Speedsters ( a 
Harley powered motorcycle with the rest built by LJ ) in various
states of assembly.  Also on the floor was the billet Ford 9" rearend - 
turned planter.  The plant was dead.  The Speedsters were much more 
impressive in person than in the article.  Lots of details to see.

DPL asked about the tooling.  LJ noted that he had "one of
everything".  There was a CNC 3-axis mill, a bridgeport mill, 
a large lathe, a large bandsaw, a large belt grider, a drill press
and a huge welder, a torch and a varitey of hand tools.  Also there
was a Makita cordless drill with an end mill mounted in it.
The walls were covered with framed covers and articles concerning
various past accomplishments.

There seemed to be no plans or notes anywhere.  He was building
motorcycles from memory, and milling most of the parts from memory.
Quite amazing.

Normally I'd suggest you go to such a place, but there was almost
nothing to see.  It is all in his head...

LIL' JOHN'S PLACE, INC
LIL' JOHN's MOTORCYCLES
17702 Metzler Lane
Huntington Beach, CA 92647
714-848-4848, voice
714-848-3343, fax

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan  4 19:26:32 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Seats
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1920


>I am considering two brands of seats.  Sure, I'd like new big buck seats,
>but I'm looking at the Dee Sport Seats ( Dee Engineering, Costa Mesa CA ) 
>and the Cerullo Pro-Driver Seats in the Summit catalog.  

If I remember correctly the Cerullo's are about $300 a piece.  Isn't there some 
adds that say you can get Recarros for the same price - I'm sure these are 
bottom of the barrel Recarros - I know the better ones can top $1000 (electric 
heaters).  Then there's Flo-fit or something like that.  In all the catalogs 
they seem like very large seats - since you sit relatively high in an A body - 
perhaps this wouldn't be bad.

>Any body got any suggestions?  Neither company seems to have A-body 
>kits for installation. Grrr.

Beware of seats with deep buckets.  If you don't have tilt wheel getting in and 
out may be a problem.  A friend with a '77 Bronco had to by Grant's steering 
wheel lock (the one that allows the complete removal of the steering wheel) so 
that he didn't have to literally climb in. 

>I'd like a cloth seat that reclines and folds and can take good
>belts.  Black is the likely color.

Must deep bucket seats don't recline or fold so you may avoid the problems 
metnion above.  Driving position shouldn't change much - so maybe you can make 
some measurements on what areas can be larger.  How much longer can leg support 
be before your legs cannot fit between the wheel and seat?

The most import part of picking a seat - with what ever steering wheel you have 
you don't want the folded forward seat to rest on the horn.  Everytime you try 
to get to the back seat you will announce to you neighbors...

>I'll be going to Pomona this weekend ( I hope ) and would like to keep
>any other brands/ideas in mind.  Thanks.

Personally I like what I saw in Summits catalog - looks like a good seat (shape 
wise) and the price will be hard to beat (except maybe at a swap meet.

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 13:09:22 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Coolant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Hewson, Dave" 
Content-Length: 1504


With all this talk about coolant systems, I was wondering if anyone one this 
list has tried using propylene glycol based antifreeze?

I hear that it's expensive, but has some interesting features: "zero psi" -- 
you replace your radiator cap with a 1 psi unit, just to allow for 
expansion; low pressure extends the life of hoses and seals; long life; 
non-poisonous; no water in the system, no corrosion?

A good but expensive solution? or snake oil?

[ "zero psi" sounds like bs.  Everything boils.
There are a few past threads posted in the Oct 93, Nov 93, May 94, and Jan 94 
archives.
Here is a taste:

Now that we know that Sierra antifreeze is propylene glycol (thanks to
whomever posted that), I looked up some of the properties of water,
ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol.  Submitted, for you amusement:


Property                 Water      EtGly      PropGly      Units

boiling point            100         197          188       deg C
freezing point             0         -13                    deg C
molar heat capacity       18          36           45      cal/mol-C
specific heat              1        0.58         0.59     cal/gram-C
vapor pressure at 25 C    24        0.12         0.13       torr
molecular weight          18          62           76      gram/mol
heat of vaporization    9.72       12.06        12.94     kilocal/mol
heat of vaporization     540         195          170      cal/gram
viscosity at temp.    1 @ 20 C  13.6 @ 30 C  18.0 @ 40 C

 --FEP ]

DaveH


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 13:45:33 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Dana 44 axle assemblies
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Ken R. Dye" 
Content-Length: 270


	Anyone know of a donormobile from which I could get 
a Dana 44 assembly?  The Summit price of $1700 is waayyyy to high,
and I'd rather not go to a Ford 9" just cause they weigh so 
damn much, and is probably overkill for my application (f-body
5.0L racecar)

--Ken




From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 14:27:23 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: S.B. Chevy rod journals
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: efrank@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Erik Frank)
Content-Length: 612

A quick question for those of you who work on small block Chevy's on a 
regular basis:

I need the dimensions of the big end bore [without the bearing inserts 
installed] for a standard 5.7" long connecting rod for the "small journal" 
crankshaft (early small blocks, like the 283, I believe)

I also need the actual crank rod journal size, and the big end width of the 
rod.   

I'm looking at using small journal small block Chevy rods in another engine, 
and I don't have this data handy.

If somebody could mail me this info, it would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!

Erik Frank
efrank@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 15:50:42 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Phone number?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 329


-> Does anyone know the phone number for Dayco.  I need to order one of
-> their poly cog belts.

 Pssst!  It's in the List!


Dayco                           hoses, belts                    03/94
PO Box 3258
Springfield MO 65808-3258
417-881-7440
                                                                              


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 16:09:05 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Content-Length: 690

Hotrod List writes:
> 	Though I bought a pair of sportsmans back when they were the only
> 	heads dart offered, and I did nothing to them and had no noticable
> 	trouble (drag car only) I was told by my local machine shop that
> 	the guides ALWAYS need to be redone. (He is a pretty straight up 
> 	sort of person too, never tries to "sell" you something.)

Did you ever take a look at the buildup on your intake valves?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://frank.mtsu.edu/~lusky/               (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 16:17:46 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: '65 Chevy Pickup
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Magnum5432@aol.com
Content-Length: 313

I'm restoring a 1965 Chevy stepside pickup. I put a SB 400 in it .   I would
be interested in any comments you would have for me if you have seen one or
have one or know any good sources for it. Also I need a dual exhaust for it
and I havent' been able to find it and would appreciate if anyone knew a
supplier.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 16:32:38 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Emission controls and the IM240 test.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 636

>> 
>> The test has two phases - if the total emission exceed the maximum level for 
>> any one phase you fail.  In theory you could have a car that is dirty on 
>> acceleration but is very clean on coast and deccel and still pass the test.
>
>   On a side note... If you have a AWD vehicle, you are exempt from IM240 
>dyno tests... Their dyno can only test 2 wheel drive vehicles.
>(I see alot of diamond star turbo's being bought in the near future...)

Sorry, all Maryland Emission Testing stations will have one bay for AWD 
vehicles....

Those boys (and girls) at Maryland EPA aren't as dumb as the rules they enforce
...

Dirk



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 16:46:03 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Seats
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Jeff Deifik 
Content-Length: 703

What you want are the Design Sport seats. Made by recarro. Big side bolsters
for your butt and shounders. Black cloth, tilts back continously. Integral
headrest with a spot for a real harness. They can be had from Long Beach
Motoring Accessories. Get the LBMA brackets for the A body. They allow 3
height positions per corver. I have one of these seats in my CSX and one in my
68 442. At the last track event with the porsche owners club they were the
most popular seat by a factor of 4.
They are around $500 or so each !!!

[ Sounds like a nice seat.  But I have sat in and looked at the Dee
seats.  They are $500 for the pair, and are quite similar.  I'll keep
these seats in mind.  Thanks.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 21:22:16 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: S.B. Chevy rod journals
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 779


>I need the dimensions of the big end bore [without the bearing inserts 
>installed] for a standard 5.7" long connecting rod for the "small journal" 
>crankshaft (early small blocks, like the 283, I believe)
>
>I also need the actual crank rod journal size, and the big end width of the 
>rod.   

Crank journal is 2.000 for small journal and 2.100 for larger journal (best 
recollection).  Big end width should be .940" 

For a slightly wider rod look at chevy 6cylinder(1.030) or ford pinto (.995).
The only thing smaller might be a Ford 302 rod (.883) but its only about 5" 
long - and is normally a strooker rod.

Hey wait a minute - your not trying to put a chevy rod in a offset ground 302 
are you?  It looks close (if you turn the crank down to 2.000 journals).

Dirk



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 21:22:40 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: S.B. Chevy rod journals
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
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X-From: lacey@dsea.com (Dan Lacey)
Content-Length: 1951

>A quick question for those of you who work on small block Chevy's on a
>regular basis:
>
>I need the dimensions of the big end bore [without the bearing inserts
>installed] for a standard 5.7" long connecting rod for the "small journal"
>crankshaft (early small blocks, like the 283, I believe)
>
>I also need the actual crank rod journal size, and the big end width of the
>rod.
>
>I'm looking at using small journal small block Chevy rods in another engine,
>and I don't have this data handy.
>
>If somebody could mail me this info, it would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks!
>
>Erik Frank
>efrank@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu

HOPE THIS HELPS!

From HPBooks, "How to rebuild your SMALL-BLOCK CHEVY", pg. 61 on

reconditioning parts:

REGRIND CHART (Small Journal Crank, NOT 400 c.i.d.)

                Bearing         Minimum         Bearing         Minimum
                                Size of Rod                     Size of Main
                                Journal                         Journal

                Standard        1.9985 in.      Standard        2.2973 in.
                -0.001 in.      1.9975          0.001 in.       2.2963
                -0.002          1.9965          0.002           2.2953
                -0.010          1.9885         -0.010           2.2973
                -0.020          1.9785         -0.020           2.2773
                -0.030          1.9685         -0.030           2.2673
                -0.040          1.9585         -0.040           2.2573



*************************************************************************
* THIS SPACE INTENTIONALLY  *       Dan Lacey ( lacey@dsea.com )        *
*                           *       Dainippon Screen Eng. of America    *
* LEFT BLANK                *       3700 W. Segerstrom Ave.             *
*                           *       Santa Ana, CA. 92704                *
*************************************************************************



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 21:40:16 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Dana 44 axle assemblies 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 660


> 	Anyone know of a donormobile from which I could get 
> a Dana 44 assembly?  The Summit price of $1700 is waayyyy to high,
> and I'd rather not go to a Ford 9" just cause they weigh so 
> damn much, and is probably overkill for my application (f-body
> 5.0L racecar)

I've heard of a Dana 60, but what is a 44?

The 8" Ford units are pretty good for a light car, and don't weight much.
I have one in my '460 powered drag mustang.  Held up so far running 13's.
We'll see if it breaks this season when it runs 12's.

Another alternative is the 8-3/4 Mopar rear, which is lighter than the 9",
and is very strong.  Find them in many 60-70's Chryslers.

-Kelly


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 21:46:04 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Dana 44 axle assemblies
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1312

From:	SMTP%"hotrod@dsea.com"  5-JAN-1995 13:45:18.59
To:	OADDAB
CC:	
Subj:	Dana 44 axle assemblies

>	Anyone know of a donormobile from which I could get 
>a Dana 44 assembly?  The Summit price of $1700 is waayyyy to high,
>and I'd rather not go to a Ford 9" just cause they weigh so 
>damn much, and is probably overkill for my application (f-body
>5.0L racecar)

Dana 44's where used on lots of Jeeps (front and rear) and up until '77 as the 
front axle on alot of 1/2 and 3/4 ton 4x4 trucks.  For GM the later corperate 
axles had a 3" axle tube.  I think the Dana's is 2.75"  You would have to 
install new axle tubes.  You could probably use the same bearing housing as 
stock (with some work).  You would definitly need to do some work to get the 
bolt pattern you want.

Before you trash the idea of a 9" - consider the ease in which you can get 
parts.  Buy a complete welded housing with all the right brackets from Currie - 
add your own center section and get custom axles and you will have a non-C-clip 
killer axle.  Poor mans quick change rear.  Not to mention a center section 
that is steel and would allow welding - like addid a Watts link and ditching 
the pan-hard bar.

If you're going to put the effort into building a rear - I suspect the 9" will 
give you more bang for the buck.

Dirk




From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 21:52:48 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Dana 44 axle assemblies
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Mike McCaughey 
Content-Length: 240

Try an ex- US Post office jeep. DJ-5Ds and DJ-5Es from '74-78 (at least)
had Dana 44 Rears, some with lockers. You should be able to get a running
postal jeep for $300-$400. Let me know if you need more info, as I have one.

Regards,
Mike


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 22:15:06 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: '65 Chevy Pickup
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: gdumpit@auspex.com (George Dumpit)
Content-Length: 710

> 
> 
> I'm restoring a 1965 Chevy stepside pickup. I put a SB 400 in it .   I would
> be interested in any comments you would have for me if you have seen one or
> have one or know any good sources for it. Also I need a dual exhaust for it
> and I havent' been able to find it and would appreciate if anyone knew a
> supplier.
> 
> 

TRY:  	OBSOLETE PARTS CO, INC.
	P.O.Box 68
	534 Hazel Ave.
	Nashville, Georgia 31639-0068
	912-686-5812
 
	PICK UPS NORTHWEST
	7130 Bickford Ave.
	Snohomish, WA 98290
	206-568-9166 or 568-5669
 
	CHEVY & GMC TRUCK PARTS
	817-497-2456

	TRUCK SHOP
	424 W. Chapman Ave.
	Orange, CA 92666
	714-771-7871
 
	GOLDEN STATE PICKUP PARTS
	405-364-3334

I hope this helps ya out.... 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 22:27:47 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Seats
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: rmwise@mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com (Bob_Wise)
Content-Length: 849

> out may be a problem.  A friend with a '77 Bronco had to by Grant's steering
> wheel lock (the one that allows the complete removal of the steering wheel) so
> that he didn't have to literally climb in.

Would one of these Grant setups work well enough as a quick-release
steering hub for my mustang?  I've got a ButlerBuilt ProStar custom
seat (REALLY deep bucket), and wasn't into the effort to remachine
and/or weld on the current steering shaft.

-Bob
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
|                   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| MCI               | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 22:45:34 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: '65 Chevy Pickup
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Carhead@aol.com
Content-Length: 59

Hemming's has a huge truck section with lots of suppliers


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 22:50:42 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Coolant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Hewson, Dave" 
Content-Length: 473


>[ "zero psi" sounds like bs.  Everything boils.
> --FEP ]

Of course; you only need a pressurized system when the operating temperature 
exceeds the boiling point, and the article (that I'll have to dig up and did 
not mention brand names) had this coolant with much higher boiling point 
than needed for most cars; the 1 psi cap was just to allow for expansion.

Were those numbers for pure propylene glycol or for the Sierra antifreeze? 
is there a difference?

DaveH


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan  5 22:57:47 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1289


>Hotrod List writes:
>> 	Though I bought a pair of sportsmans back when they were the only
>> 	heads dart offered, and I did nothing to them and had no noticable
>> 	trouble (drag car only) I was told by my local machine shop that
>> 	the guides ALWAYS need to be redone. (He is a pretty straight up 
>>> 	sort of person too, never tries to "sell" you something.)
>
>Did you ever take a look at the buildup on your intake valves?

A local machine shop had similar advice.  In a nut shell:

Rather than refurbishing stock or old and questionalble 492 or 186 castings buy
the Dart II sportsman heads complete.  _Then_ bring them in to the machine shop 
and have them bowl port and clean up the casting.  Bronze guides and a refresh 
of the three-angle valve job and they are ready to go.

Everyone says that the heads are basically sound - just the finish is lousy.
In fact there was a few posts about this on the earlier hotrod list.

I have noticed that the heads advertised in Circle track normally include 
bronze guides and 10 degree keepers.  Not to mention bowl work (normally CNC 
machined).  Still about $1000 a pair.  Considering what I spent on a set of 186 
castings....

I would think that the vender that sold you the heads is more at fault then the 
heads themselves.

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan  6 16:43:45 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: '65 Chevy Pickup
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 582


-> have one or know any good sources for it. Also I need a dual exhaust
-> for it and I havent' been able to find it and would appreciate if
-> anyone knew a

 What's wrong with just going down to the muffler shop and saying, "put
a set of duals on it."?   Costs about $150 around here.

 As far as my '65 truck service manual shows, the only factory exhaust
was single.


 There are quite a few places which will sell you parts for the '65.
Check the ads in some of the Chevy magazines and Hemmings.
                                                                              


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan  6 16:47:35 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Fr. Sus. Mods
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 2463

First: thanks for setting me straight on the cooling system.

Next: I have a small problem with the front suspension on the car.
The problem is the tires stick outward just a little too much and
will rub on the inside lip of the fender wells when taking fairly
quick sharp turns. To correct the problem, all I would have to do
is move the tires inward about 1/4" to 1/2".
 The rims are 15x3.5 so trying different backspacing is out of the
question, since these things only come in one standrard size.

 I can only come up with 2 solutions:

1. machine out the inside of the rim some. Don't know how much
could be removed.

2. Cut and shorten the control arms. Don't know what this would do
to the geometry of the front end.

[ To me, each of these seems like a really bad idea.  Machining the
rim may have no effect on the tire profile, but would surly effect
the tire's desire to stay on the rim.  Cutting control arms is 
another real wild idea.  This act will change your camber profile
and roll centers -- each of which can be good or bad.  It will also
likely effect ball join travel.  Travel could be changed to the point
where it ends before the suspension is fully compressed.  A locked ball 
joint is a very bad problem.  

The acutal shortening of a-arms is another difficult area.  The
alterations CANNOT fail without real problems.  That means that your
welding would have to be done by somebody really good, and the
resulting pieces should be stress releived.

It would be much easier to get a new set of rims!  If you are certain
that new rims are out of the question, someplace like Stockton Wheel
will alter a pair of stock-type steel wheels for about $100.

Forget trying to cut 1/4" off the the hub.  

If you really really want new control arms, go to a race fab shop
and have some custom made.  My guess is that it will cost close to 
$1000 for the four, with new bushings and ball joints.

If your wheels hit only during sharp turns, your solution may be as
simple as limiting your steering travel.  You may be able to modify
your steering box by adding different travel stops. --FEP ]

My only other hope may be to try to work the hubs, machine the front
of them.

Anyone ever done anything like this???

Mark.

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 01:10:40 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Phone number?
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X-From: gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Robert Gallant)
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On Jan 05 1995 08:32, hotrod wrote:

> Pssst!  It's in the List!

Thanks.  Maybe its time to download a new copy.

>Dayco                           hoses, belts                    03/94
>PO Box 3258
>Springfield MO 65808-3258
>417-881-7440

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 01:32:27 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Fr. Sus. Mods
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
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I agree with FEP:  DO NOT reduce the width of the hub face.

As far as modifying the control arms goes, you're looking at significant 
expense to do it right, and that requires an engineering analysis.

Take a look at the public-domain A-Arm design program that I've
attached (I ftp'd it from Georgia Tech; standard disclaimers apply).
At least you'll be able to analyze the impact of your changes.

Finally, why not just flare the wheel wells?

bdermond@cc.atinc.com

[ Careful, there, too much data!  I have placed the apparently 
pc-based uuencoded program in hotrod ftpmail under the name 
 a_arm.uu.  

I also meant to mention flaring the wheel wells.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 02:00:05 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Coolant
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X-From: Jim Davies 
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> 
> Of course; you only need a pressurized system when the operating temperature 
> exceeds the boiling point, and the article (that I'll have to dig up and did 
> not mention brand names) had this coolant with much higher boiling point 
> than needed for most cars; the 1 psi cap was just to allow for expansion.
> 
You can also run 0 psi with ethylene glycol, in fact that was the 
original idea when it was first developed. Early systems were 100% glycol 
and zero pressure. Check a suppliers specs, the curve for boiling temp 
goes almost straight up as the last few percent of water is removed. For 
an exhaustive background in this stuff, check out the history of Allison 
v-12s and other liquid cooled aeroengines.
Jim Davies



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 02:09:12 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Seats
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
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>> out may be a problem.  A friend with a '77 Bronco had to by Grant's steering
>> wheel lock (the one that allows the complete removal of the steering wheel) so
>> that he didn't have to literally climb in.
>
>Would one of these Grant setups work well enough as a quick-release
>steering hub for my mustang?  I've got a ButlerBuilt ProStar custom
>seat (REALLY deep bucket), and wasn't into the effort to remachine
>and/or weld on the current steering shaft.

It requires a key to release - the round type like on vending machines
and the "CLub" steering wheel lock bar.

I don't know if you want to use this as a race-car quick release - I
would doubt it.  For the street it should be O.K.  If there is more
intrest I'll query my friend on what he thinks about day to day
driving.  For about 6 months he was laid up with a bad left knee and
used the Bronco (his only automatic) as his daily driver - I'm sure he
didn't do much climbing in and out.  If you have more questions E-mail
me directly and I'll forward them to my friend.

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 02:35:29 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Dana 44 axle assemblies 
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> Another alternative is the 8-3/4 Mopar rear, which is lighter than the 9",
> and is very strong.  Find them in many 60-70's Chryslers.

These things are just about the best bang-for-the-buck rear end around, 
in my experience. Cheap, too. They all are 31 spline. Almost all third 
members are cast steel, which is a lot better than nodular iron, let 
alone grey iron. It is very common to find one with limited slip, even 
from a large donormobile. Pre 69 used powr-loks and post 69 used the B-W 
cone type, which often work quit well. There are 3 sizes of pinion nose 
used over the years, with strength implications, but the differences in 
strength havent been observed to be very great, in my experience. 
Narrowest track? 65-70 something A body, next is pre 72 B body. Oh yeah, 
4.11 and 3.91 ratios are common in early 60s 1/2 tons and A vans. Some 
1950s era versions of this used 8 1/4 ring gears, BTW. The pot is marked 
8 1/4, cast into the area beside the diff bearings.

Jim Davies
 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 03:07:07 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Dana 44 axle assemblies
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X-From: Jim Davies 
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On Thu, 5 Jan 1995, Hotrod List wrote:

> 
> 	Anyone know of a donormobile from which I could get 
> a Dana 44 assembly?  The Summit price of $1700 is waayyyy to high,
> and I'd rather not go to a Ford 9" just cause they weigh so 
> damn much, and is probably overkill for my application (f-body
> 5.0L racecar)

Dana 44s have been used in almost everything ;) especially in the
1950s.  Assuming you can find some of this stuff...try studebakers,
willys cars, henry Js, almost everything non big 3. 1950s Lincolns used
them, as did 1/2 ton Ford pickups into the 1960s (if factory ordered
with limited slip). If you can find a 55-56 Ford sedan delivery/station
wagon it should have a 44 in it, and it would probably be close or
identical in track width to your mustang. There are many detail
differences inside the various 44s, especially axles and bearings, but
you are right about prefering it to a 9inch, IMHO, Its strength to
weight raio is a lot better. Of course, if we are talking about
changing gears in each of these...  

Flames to dev/nul please ;>  [ No flames here. --FEP ]

Jim Davies


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 03:26:06 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Fr. Sus. Mods
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X-From: warwick@donald.wes.army.mil (Jon Warwick)
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> The problem is the tires stick outward just a little too much and
> will rub on the inside lip of the fender wells when taking fairly
> quick sharp turns. To correct the problem, all I would have to do
> is move the tires inward about 1/4" to 1/2".
>  The rims are 15x3.5 so trying different backspacing is out of the
> question, since these things only come in one standrard size.
> 
>  I can only come up with 2 solutions:
> 
> 1. machine out the inside of the rim some. Don't know how much
> could be removed.
> 
> 2. Cut and shorten the control arms. Don't know what this would do
> to the geometry of the front end.

--Good response deleted--

> 
> Anyone ever done anything like this???
> 
> Mark.
> 
> -- 
> Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
> United States Geological Survey        |
> Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
> (703) 648-4558                         |
> 

Mark,
Howse about some stiffer suspension parts; like starting with some
heavy anti-roll bars. This would not let the cars chassis lean down
and kiss the tire on sharp turns.

					Jon


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan  7 03:42:04 1995
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Fr. Sus. Mods
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
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>Next: I have a small problem with the front suspension on the car.
>The problem is the tires stick outward just a little too much and
>will rub on the inside lip of the fender wells when taking fairly
>quick sharp turns. To correct the problem, all I would have to do
>is move the tires inward about 1/4" to 1/2".
> The rims are 15x3.5 so trying different backspacing is out of the
>question, since these things only come in one standrard size.
>
> I can only come up with 2 solutions:
>
>1. machine out the inside of the rim some. Don't know how much
>could be removed.
>
>2. Cut and shorten the control arms. Don't know what this would do
>to the geometry of the front end.

No way - as Frank mentioned either is not a trivial operation.

Other things to try
1)  Seems the tire may be taller than stock and or the front end is
lowered.  Maybe you can cut some clearance in the fenders.

2)  This is a Nova right?  Seems the upper A-arm mounts can be lowered
to improve negative camber and to improve the roll center.  Look in the
last couple months of Hot Rod and Car Craft for such an article (they
did the work on a Camaro)

3) Contact Global West and ask about their tubular upper control arms.
Like all their products they are expensive, but I was under the
impression they were a little shorter.  Something about improved
geometry.

4) Contact some of the mail-order race car chassis builders - like
Morrison.  They have Mustang II or Pinto style set-ups that should work
and would be safe (assuming the front of the car isn't too heavy.  But
then again on a real heavy car with skinney front tires you don't want
to make sharp turns anyway...  Lots of fabrication though.

When you alter the front geometry you alter things like the bump steer,
roll center etc.  which might not mean much for the car that goes
straigth on a smooth as glass race track, but on the road it could give
some really surprising results.

One thing you might want to look at is how the suspension travels.
Remove the shock and spring and see how much clearance you have.  See
what's really going on.

Dirk


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan  9 12:19:16 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: RESTORATION-RUST CONVERTE...
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X-From: ETRobW@aol.com
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The Rust-Oleum product is water-borne, and works well, but remember, nothing
beats blasting.



From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan  9 12:24:12 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Dana 44 axle assemblies
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X-From: VinnyJr@aol.com
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F.Y.I. The Dana 44 rear will weigh more the the Ford rear (but the Ford rear
will probably end up costing as much as the Dana, if not more)

Your best bet is probably to keep your 10 bolt and buy an Auburn posi with
gears. Also, depending on how much power the 5.0L is putting out, you might
want to get Strange axles and a C-clip eliminator.  All in all, it'll set you
back about a grand.

Look further into the 10 bolt before throwing your money into a heavy, but
strong, Dana rear that you probably don't even need with the 5.0L.

-- Vinny


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan  9 18:38:42 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: New Chevy Rods
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
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I was at CSR the other day and happened to pick up a copy of the Dec. 1994
Chevy Thunder magazine.  On the back page there was a nice summary of 
GM's new Forged Powdered Metal connecting rods.  

These are the new rods used in the L99 ( the new 265 CID motor based on
the new LT1 ), and they are reportedly stronger and lighter than the 
original Chevy "pink" rods.  They are described as drop-in
replacements for the "pink" rods.  I can only hope that they are
cheaper, as there is less machining to get them to an acceptable
state.  No prices were listed.

There are two FPM rods available.  The 5.700" rod ( center to center )
is PN 10108688; the 5.940" rod is PN 10108697, and is described as
"an affordable alternative to extra-long aftermarket connecting
rods."


I'd never heard of these new, strong rods.  Has anything else been 
written about these in the press.  ( Warm Rod and Car Crap as Dave
likes to call them, or any other national publication. )

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan  9 18:38:48 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Pomona
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
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I went to my first Pomona swap meet this past Sunday.  It was not what I
expected, and pretty much a disaster for most folks.  The main problem
was that we had the most rain in the past forty years just this past
weekend.

The 2500 vendor lot was about 95% sold out when I got there at 4 am on 
Sunday, but it was raining hard.  By the time I got my misc. Chevelle
parts all laid out, the lights on, and my cash in hand, it was 5 am, 
and there was about 1" of water flowing through my booth.  And I was on
the high side of the lot!

Just as I was told, most of the serious selling happened before dawn.
I got rid of about half the stuff in a flash.  The rest went slowly.

I could not sell the few remaining large parts I had.  For $10 nobody would
take my good points distributor plus 4bbl intake, plus good working 
Rochester.  Similarly, nobody would take my newly rebuilt front drum brakes,
spindles, shoes, drums, etc., for $10.

By 11am I gave up selling and walked around.  The other side of the parking
lot had water up to 4" deep moving at a fast clip.  I actaully saw some 
displays underwater!

I might do it again, but not without consulting a better weatherman.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan  9 18:39:25 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Bounces
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
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Yes, we here at DSEA have had a bounce problem for the past few days.
By the time you get this, it should have been corrected.  

Thanks for your patience.
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan  9 18:40:40 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: California Street Rods
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
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DPL and I made another lunchtime hotrod pilgramage this past Friday.  
This one was to California Street Rods.   CSR is right in the 
middle of the automotive section of Huntington Beach, about a mile
from Origian Parts Group and half that distance from Little John's.

When we got there, we spotted the building by the collection of 
neon red and blue 18 wheelers sponsored by BF Goodrich.  These trucks
were either the inspiration for, or the result of the current BFG 
neon-colored ads and were parked in the driveway and on the street, 
obscuring the building.  But we knew CSR must be behind them.

As you can imagine, the place was nice, and the folks were laid back.
We must of showed up on a vacation week or something, as there were
only two employees there, and we got the complete tour.

In the showroom up front is the HRM/CSR 57 Chevy Speepstakes Special.
It is cream and red with a huge flame job, and is the one in the full
page giveaway ads.  Quite the trick machine.  New 'vette drivetrain,
outstanding interior, etc.  Next to it is some GM concept truck, a
new S10 with a serious slam and extra bodywork.  Next to it is the 
prototype for the new Monte Carlo.  A nicely restyled brand new thing
with good wheels and loud paint.  Next to that is a very subtle 
 '36 Chevy sedan that nobody would let us look at.  

With just a little persuasion, they let us into the real CSR, the 
workshop/garage area.  I think that even a F1 team would find this
garage spacios, clean, well lit, and well laid out.  It was hard to
count the cars there, but there were probably 10 nearly-finished cars.
The Comp Cams chopped 5 window sedan was on the lift.  The lifts and 
jacks were carpeted so the could not possibly scratch any paint!
There was a Accel fuel injected, nitroused, purple big block '56
Chevy Sedan Delivery next to it.  It looked to be without any errors,
probably some sort of show car.

On jack stands next to those was a new chassis, its front filled with 
Boyd Billet components, and a new 'vette drivetrain, from air cleaner to 
wheel weights, was on the floor next to it.  I have not idea what it
will end up as.  

Across the way, but still inside the same garage, was a row of Camaros,
'vettes, and one Pro Street Bently that somebody had spent $300,000 
putting together.  Too much to look at or even comprehend in one lunch
time.

There was a 2-story sliding door that lead to the paint area.  I lost
count of what was in there, but there was one huge woodie, and what
looked like a chopped, slammed full size Pontiac from the early '50s,
one Harley, some early Ford stuff and all sorts of other projects.


If you are in SoCal and want to stop in, they do not seem to mind.
Just keep your hands in your pockets and do not lean on anything.
CSR is in Huntington Beach, between Beach Bvd and Gothard streets,
just inland of Slater(Segerstrom).

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 11 11:52:50 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Dana thanks, and request for header recommendation...
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X-From: "Ken R. Dye" 
Content-Length: 1026

	Thanks for all the info on the Dana donormobiles.  I'll
be checking out the local pick-u-parts pickup section the next
time I'm out there.  In the meantime, I guess I'll use the stock
rear end and have some good, strong axles made up (C-clip eliminators
aren't legal, stupid, ain't it?).

	Any suggestions on what header pipes to use in the car?  The
application: 305 small block, .5" lift at the valve (cam otherwise 
unrestricted), 600CFM Holley, Performer RPM manifold.  With the 
weenie cam, power peak will probably appear in the low 6000's or
high 5000's.  Since this will be a road race car, a wider torque
band to pull off the corners would be preferred over a peaky,
high-hp setup.  

	Needless to say, emissions and connecting to the stock exhaust
are not concerns.  My previous car (1600cc Datsun) seemed to pick
up a bit with the addition of the flowmaster slip-on collecter.
Does anyone have experience with the similar unit that Borla
makes (the one that also serves as a muffler)?

	Thanks in advance,

--Ken


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 11 11:52:54 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: New Chevy Rods
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 3015

-> original Chevy "pink" rods.  They are described as drop-in
-> replacements for the "pink" rods.  I can only hope that they are

 Gawd, I hope not!  The pink rods are bulky and heavy; enough so to
cause clearance problems in some blocks!

-> is PN 10108688; the 5.940" rod is PN 10108697, and is described as
-> "an affordable alternative to extra-long aftermarket connecting
-> rods."

   Whatever posessed them to come up with a bastard length like
that?  Even if the rods were free, you'd be out $600 or so for a set of
custom pistons with a special pin height.

-> I'd never heard of these new, strong rods.  Has anything else been
-> written about these in the press.  ( Warm Rod and Car Crap as Dave
-> likes to call them, or any other national publication. )

 I haven't seen a word in any of the trade journals, nor the popular
press.

 Powder-metal rods *can* be quite strong.  Many of the higher-end
Porsche Turbos use them, including the 959 and old Le Mans cars.  They
*can* be less expensive to make, compared to forged rods.  They *can* be
really nice... but your typical powder-metal, or sintered, part is
something like the cheesy lower timing gear on the Chevy, the part you
just crack off with a chisel.  PM parts can be quite brittle if not
properly made.  That shouldn't be a problem, though.

 Considering the costs, I don't see any advantage over a cast rod.
Detroit has cast rods down cold, except for Chevrolet.  Every single rod
in every single Chevrolet engine, from the 502 crate motor down to the
little 1.6 nerd motors, has forged rods, and they always have, all the
way back to the beginning.  Furthermore, Chevy has a lot of commonality
with their 5.7 rod - the same basic rod is used on the 2.0 J car motor,
the 2.8 V6, the 350, etc.  The 4.2 rod is similar, except it has a
larger big end to take the 2.2 big block sized bearings to give a little
extra strength with the split throw crank.

[ By the pictures at least, these are slim, trim rods.  The article
also hinted that these rods should less costly to produce, as they 
are very consistent in weight and shape.  The balance pads on the
big end are just plane gone, and the small ends are slimmer.

As for custom pistons, something must be missing someplace, because
the "small" rod is to be used in all GEN II 350 and 305 motors
starting real soon.  The "long" rod is for the 265 cid L99, the motor
in the base Caprice.  That adds up to many pistons.  --FEP ]

 While browsing through my speed catalogs, I've noticed several
brands of aftermarket rods that showed most of the characteristics of PM
parts.  Might be that Chevy picked up the idea from the aftermarket.

==dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us=============================DoD #978==
==      I am the kind of person your parents warned you about.      ==
==           Mazda RX-7 + 5.0 Ford V8 = Tyrannosaurus RX            ==
========================================John De Armond Fan Club #978==
                                                               

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 11 17:45:00 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
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The list seemed a little slow so I thought I throw this one around again.
For those that have more serious things to do hit the delete key now...

Well its come up again.

Background:
A SuperFlow Dyno is about $16,000 with minimal instrumentation.
The big ticket item is the power absorber - AKA the water brake.  This item is 
$9000 alone.  It can handle 10,000rpm and 1000hp.

This is a little out of my price range (O.K. alot!)

I'd like to be able to tune an engine while it is under load.  Esp adjust a 
port fuel injected one (maybe a turbo charged one).

The problem is to be able to absorb all the power.

Cheaper solutions:
1) Electric generator - but what to do with all the electrical power - sounds 
dangerous.
2) Hydraulic pump - haven't been able to find a big enough one - besides, hot 
hydraulic fluid doesn't sound like fun.
3) Build your own water brake - I don't know how - nor would I know haw to make 
it safe!

The latest and most promising:
Multiple disc brakes - in a can - cooled by transmission fluid - sounds cheap, 
should be able to take the rpm (have to double check that) and if the tranny 
fluid can remove enough heat it should work.  To measure torque (and thus 
horsepower - given the output rpm) you would place a lever on the axis of 
rotation and put one end on a pressure transducer - or a simple electronic 
scale.

Get an axle stub - have it shortened and resplined so that a pinion yoke would 
fit on it.  Mount two disk brakes on it - one forward, one revers.  Use a stock 
axle seal and bearing.  Assemble in a 14" diameter steel pipe with brakets 
welded to the pipe that allowed calipers to be mounted.  Seal it up with a 
solid steel plate on one side and a removable one on the other and run enough 
trans fluid through the case and your set.

An alternative idea:
A jet drive from a boat.
I called one boat builder and asked could I easily get a jet drive that can 
handle 800hp and 8000rpm.  He said he was just installing a 12,000hp motor in 
one boat now....
He also mentioned that only one company actually makes true "jet drives" (
forgot the name.  The rest use "irregation pumps" with stainless steel 
internals.  These are supplied by companies like Jacuzzi (sp?) Berkley 
Irregation etc.

Now there is a Berkley Irregation in Berkley,CA - but they don't sell pumps.  
There supposidly was a Berkley Pump but they are no longer listed (according to 
phone info).

Does anyone have an idea on where to get info on larger water pumps - typically 
with 8" inlet and outlets and rpm capabilitis in the upper thousands (like 8,
000).  

The idea is to circulate the water via the pump - with an adjustable restrictor 
in the pipe.

To give you an idea what is require:

If you know the pressure increase due to the pump, and the water flow rate (
lets say in cubic feet per minute ) you can approximate the amount of 
horsepower it takes to drive the pump:

Pressure in psi = 1728 lbs per sq ft.
Flow rate in cubic feet per second.

If the motor makes 500hp thats 275,000 ft lbs /sec.

Assuming a maximum pressure of 200psi or 345,600 lbs per sq ft that would 
require a flow rate of .79 cubic ft a second.  Thats about 5 gallons a second.

To figure out how much power is being produced you need to know flow rate and 
pressure change.  Pressure is easy to measure and flow rate could be estimated 
by the pump rpm and knwing the pressure change.  If the pump is possitive 
displacement then its trivial to figure water flow.

Any thoughts?

BTW, how much does dyno time cost anyway?

One advertiser in Circle track has a dyno system starting at about $10,000 - a 
little less capacity but still alot more than I would like to spend.

Dirk

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 12:28:18 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: List Notes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 0

Just a quick note.  Our link has finally gone live.  As a result there
will be less delay for your message posting.  


Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 12:30:30 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Fontana Peter" 
Content-Length: 0

> Any thoughts?  {on disc brake dyno, or jet drive dyno}
Yeah - I think the disc brake dyno would have to be a well engineered and
carefully made unit.  If you applied that much skill and time in doing
chassis building, header fabrication, roll cage construction etc, and just
use the money from that to BUY a dyno, you be much better off, and you'd
probably get killed a few less times.

On the jet drive - much closer to earth, but still much good work needs to go
into this.  You'd probably end up with "more" into this than just buying a
dyno.

> BTW, how much does dyno time cost anyway?
I was yakking with a well reputed engine builder, who said if I wanted him
dial in a mix of aftermarket SEFI pieces/mods for a 351W on the dyno, it'd be
$500 over the cost of the engine price (we were initially discussing a
complete buildup).  I'm guessing that means $500/hr.

If you're asking to see how much you'd pay, remember you're also getting the
expertise of the shop you're picking.

If you're asking to see how much you GET for selling time on your dyno, I
think most people go on reputation.  If I'm shopping for *cheap* dyno time,
I'll just go to the track instead.


Peter Fontana
fontana.peter@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com



From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 12:30:48 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: re: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Steve=Ravet%Prj=Eng%PCPD=Hou@bangate.compaq.com
Content-Length: 0

hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List) Wrote:
| The list seemed a little slow so I thought I throw this one around again.
| For those that have more serious things to do hit the delete key now...
| 
| Well its come up again.
| 
| I'd like to be able to tune an engine while it is under load.  Esp adjust a 
| port fuel injected one (maybe a turbo charged one).
| 
| The problem is to be able to absorb all the power.
| 
| Cheaper solutions:
| 1) Electric generator - but what to do with all the electrical power-sounds 
| dangerous.

Well, you could....
1)  Connect it to the utility grid and sell the power back to the power 
company, or

2)  Build a big-ass Tesla coil!!!

| The latest and most promising:
| Multiple disc brakes - in a can - cooled by transmission fluid-sounds cheap, 
| should be able to take the rpm (have to double check that) and if the tranny 
| fluid can remove enough heat it should work.  To measure torque (and thus 
| horsepower - given the output rpm) you would place a lever on the axis of 
| rotation and put one end on a pressure transducer - or a simple electronic 
| scale.

Sounds like a good idea.  How exactly do you measure an engines output on a 
dyno?  Block the throttle open and take torque measurements at different rpms? 

--steve



From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 12:32:46 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Request for Ford power-train info ...
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: John Jennings 
Content-Length: 0

Folks,

I'm only a few years into the auto hobby and all my experience (up to now)
has been with Chevy stuff.

I'm considering building a Cobra kit.  The current phase of this project is
cost vs. performance vs. effort analysis.  I don't mind rebuilding
components to save money!  Questions:

1)	Which Ford engines would be best suited for a fun/aggressive street
	machine (I'm leaning towards 351 - 428 CI range)?  Is it worth the
	~2.5 k$ to go with a new crate motor?

2)	I want EFI.  Which Ford models/years would provide the best
	possibility for good donor components?

3)	I would like a 6-speed manual transmission but will settle for
	5-speed.  Again,  which models/years for donor components?

4)	Any clutch suggestions?

5)	Any general suggestions?


Please include any ballpark figures you may have on component costs.

[ Is there anybody that has not thought about a Cobra kit?  Anybody at
all?  I looked into a few, just casually.  Generally bring extra money, and
expect it to take a few years.  

From what I read, the Cobras can do without the weight of big blocks,

although the tourque is great.  I'd probably go with a crate motor, 
EFI, and a T56 six-speed right out of the Summit catalog.  When I 
replaced the drivetrain in my Chevelle, I looked at the cost/time/
performance of Chevy stuff and settled on a "crate solution".  The 
Ford tradeoffs are doubtless different.

Other general thoughts.  It takes a great deal of $ for these kits;
be sure you have a good job or a trust fund.  Also, it takes a patient
SO to see these things through.  Make a realistic schedule, double it,
and then buy all the parts.  You will be MUCH more inclined to finish
if you have all the parts sitting, paid for, nearby.

Good luck.  --FEP ]

Thanks,
John Jennings
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
John Jennings                      INTERNET: jjenning@spd.dsccc.com
DSC Communications, Corp.          (214) 519-3957
1000 Coit Road, Plano TX 75075


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 12:34:42 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Boyd's
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 0


Today's luncheon pilgramage found us at Boyd's.  After a few years of 
hearing the hype, we decided to go down and see the shop.  

It was not quite what you might expect at a hot rod shop.  For example,
each of the six buildings had its own receptionist.  It is more like
the Boyd's Industrial Park.  Again, it was close to here, as it turned
out its stupidly close.  I got the seats for my Chevelle recovered at
Sonny's, a place two streets over and a few miles inland from where
I work.  I took three trips to Sonny's.  For some reason, each time I 
was at Sonny's I failed to see Boyd's across the street!

The whole area was filled with interesting cars, most with nice
wheels.  The two buildings of most interest were the Hot Rod Shop 
building and the Showroom building.  We spent the most time at the
Showroom; it was filled with finished, or mostly finished cars.  Just
like at CSR, I lost count of the cars.  In the middle of the floor
were 3 '57 Chevy sedans and a '57 wagon.  Each was a show car, with
good paint, stance, wheels, interior, etc.  Along the back was a row
of fabricated roadsters.  There was the purple ZR32-like thing ( ZR1
drivetrain with chopped 'glass body ) with the OHC banks poking out 
of the side hood panels.  There were a few like the ZZ Top Eliminator,
and one like that new Chrysler roadster prototype.  Near them was an
old style '55 Chevy in black and a red English (???) 3000.  On the
other was a '40 Ford woodie with billet drivtrain, a few early
Mustangs and a Model T sedan, I think a '20.  In the next room 
I found a Lark, a modified DeThomaso Pantera (white) , a leaned-on Charger
a few other perfect cars I cannot remember, another black Chevy,
possibly a '50, and a late-30's Ford sedan in bright orange.  There
was also what appeared to be a very early T bucket.  It had a
stretched frame, Flathead Ford, ancient tires, and a chromed
front suspension that stetched to near of the bucket.   WAY too
much detail to absorb during lunch.  And this is the completly public
building!

The Shop was much more restricted.  There are organized tours, at
10:30 am and 2:30 pm, and cars that are actually under construction.
All I could do was to peek into the open bay door and have a look.
There were perhaps a dozen cars being fabricated, maybe less.  All but
one were mostly apart.

There was also a showroom/store building.  They had catalogs and one
of ever Boyd thing.  It was nice to see all the shiny bits in one
place, but overwhelming.  Even though I was disgusted to find 44
different SHIRTS available, I picked up a Boyds Shop Rags ( clothing )
catalog on the way out.  On the front cover of the catalog is a 
pretty, buxom woman sitting on a Buttera Speedster.  Just what is 
that supposed to mean?


If you happen to be in SoCal, I'd say to skip the Shop, unless you are
in Stanton at 2:30, but go to the Showroom.  Boyd's has grown a bit
large and impersonal, but the finished products are still nice to look
at, and can still be driven around.


I hope you folks don't much mind the change in venue, but it has
rained for about two weeks straight; I cannot really work on my car
laying in the puddle(river?) at my garage door, and want to get some 
sort of hotrodding in.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 12:36:24 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #95-1*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 0

Hi all,

I hope you all enjoyed the holidays. Sorry about last week. I had to
burn some annual leave and tried to stay away from anything with a keyboard.

Bill
----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now beginning its 4th and final year of weekly publication, TVE is a 
compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, 
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special 
thanks to Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many 
regional sports networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your 
local listings before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

Hot Rod 2                             01/12    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN2
In The Driver's Seat                  01/12    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN2
Thrills & Spills                      01/12    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN2
In The Driver's Seat                  01/12    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN2
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/12    6:00-7:30PM      HSE
On Pit Road                           01/12    6:30-7:00PM      NESN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC (T)                   01/13    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/13    1:30PM           ESPN
On Pit Road                           01/13    5:30-6:00PM      MSC
SpeedWeek                             01/14    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
Week In Motor Sports                  01/14    2:30AM           WGN
Monster Trucks                        01/14    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             01/14    5:30-6:00AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             01/14    7:00-7:30AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/14    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
WoO, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)          01/14    9:00-10:30AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             01/14    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/14    10:25-10:30AM    TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/14    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
NASCAR Today                          01/14    11:00-11:30AM    ESPN
MotorWeek                             01/14    12:30-1:00PM     WUSA
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/14    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/14    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN Award Ceremonies             01/14    3:00-4:00PM      TNN
RaceLine                              01/14    6:30-7:00PM      HTS
MotorWeek (Jeep Cherokee & Sob 900)   01/14    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
MotoWorld                             01/15    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/15    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Auto Shop                             01/15    8:00-9:00AM      QVC
Shadetree Mechanic (routine services) 01/15    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Force & Bernstein01/15    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/15    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/15    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/15   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
CARS, TALL PINES RALLY (T)            01/15    1:30PM           TSN
N Bonnett's Winners (Force & Bernstein01/15    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/15    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/15    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (routine services) 01/15    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, TUCSON (L)          01/15    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
MotoWorld II                          01/15    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN2
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/15    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/15    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/15    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/15   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/16    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS, ATLANTA (T) 01/16    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/16    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
BUSCH GN Award Ceremonies             01/16    2:00-3:00AM      TNN
MotorWeek                             01/16    2:30-3:00AM      WGN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (T)                 01/16    12:30-1:00PM     ESPN2
MotoWorld                             01/16    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
IHRA, MUSCLE CAR SHOOT-OUT, MEMPHIS(T)01/16    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
GOLD COAST 300, LAS VEGAS (T)         01/16    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        01/17    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MOTORCYCLE RACING (T)                 01/17    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN2
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/17    4:00-5:00PM      SUN
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/18    12:00-1:30AM     HSE
Movie: Speedway (The one with Elvis)  01/18    3:00-4:35AM      DIS
The Power & The Glory (Mansell & Moss)01/18    12:30-1:00PM     HIST
The Power & The Glory (Mansell & Moss)01/18    5:30-6:00PM      HIST
This Week In Motorsports              01/18    6:00-6:30PM      SCNY
Antique Car Race, Palm Springs        01/19    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
Porsche Supercup Year In Review       01/19    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/19    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN2
Driving Force                         01/19    4:00-6:00PM      ESPN2
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 01/19    5:30-7:00PM      HSE
On Pit Road                           01/19    6:30-7:00PM      NESN
Raceline                              01/19    7:00-7:30PM      HTS
MotorWeek (Benz G-Wagon)              01/19    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
For Race Fans Only w/ Bill Elliott    01/19   10:00PM-12:00AM   QVC
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/19   11:00PM-12:00AM   SCP
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/20    12:30-1:30AM     PRTK
Monster Trucks                        01/20    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        01/21    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MotorWeek                             01/21    4:35-5:05AM      WJZ
MotoWorld                             01/21    7:00-7:30PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NASCAR WINSTON WEST, TUCSON (L)       01/22    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30PM           TNN
NASCAR, BUSCH CLASH (?)               02/12    tba              tba
IROC #1, DAYTONA                      02/15 (live coverage is unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)  :-)   :-)   02/19    tba              CBS
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/26    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/05    tba              TBS
INDYCAR, MIAMI (L)                    03/05    tba              ABC [1]
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/12    tba              ABC
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (L) 03/19    5:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, OZ (?)                       03/19    tba              ABC [1]

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
DIS      The Disney Channel
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HIST     The History Channel
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"
WRC      Washington, DC
WUSA     Washington, DC
-------


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:34:30 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Lawrence E. Piekarski 
Content-Length: 1076

> Sounds like a good idea.  How exactly do you measure an engines output on a 
> dyno?  Block the throttle open and take torque measurements at different rpms

I used a dyno in a senior project at GMI. It was a phase-locked AC motor 
sitting on a load cell. You simply picked the rpm you wanted to test at,
say 3000 rpm. A phase locked motor will not vary rpm. You then played with
the throttle to get the maximum torque out. You could go from negative
torque (where the motor was driving the engine, use for windage measurement)
to zero torque (cruise condition) to maximum torque. Frequently max torque
was not at max throttle. 

hp = Torque * rpm / 5252.

This was a plain jane Quad-4 I was working on and the AC motor was
only rated for 4000 rpm. Max hp I could get was 78. 

-- 
Larry Piekarski          0. . . .120 0. . . .8         Delco Electronics
Software Eng.    C. . .H     |             |   E. . .F        Kokomo, IN
1996 Cadillac     \          |            |        /    c1ilep@kocrsv01.
Instrumentation    \         |           |        /       delcoelect.com

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:34:53 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Boyd's
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Joe B. McGlynn (415) 354-2728" 
Content-Length: 1108

Hey,

Keep those hot rodding pilgramages up.  I love to hear about them.

[ On the list: CARS in Fullerton, the two low-volume vee twin motorcycle 
makers in Costa Mesa, Edelbrock near LA, and a few others.  --FEP ]

I was at Boyds several years ago and was fasenated to walk through the
hot rod shop.  I spent about 20 minutes just checking out the mechanism
they had built to operate the master cylander on a Duece roadster.

It involved a linkage that placed the MC under the cowel and at a right
angle to the pedal operation.  Everything was carved out of billet or
fabbed' from stainless.

At the same time I also visited Marcel DeLay's metal shaping shop.  He
does some work for Boyd and others.  I think he shaped the body for the
Alumina-coupe.  Also a neat place, but in a different way.  Most of the
metal shaping tools were shop-made and manually operated.  They had two
english wheels, an enormous hand-crank bead rolled, some foot-powered
shrinkers and a big Chicago-Pneumatic plannishing hammer.  They also
had a Petengil (sp?) power hammer, but didn't seem to use it very
much.

Regards

Joe


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:37:11 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Request for Ford power-train info ... 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
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X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 1391


> I'm considering building a Cobra kit.  The current phase of this project is
cost vs. performance vs. effort analysis.
> 1)	Which Ford engines would be best suited for a fun/aggressive street
	machine (I'm leaning towards 351 - 428 CI range)?  
> 2)	I want EFI.
> 3)	I would like a 6-speed manual transmission but will settle for 5

I think it would be hard to beat buying a complete late-80's 5.0 LX Mustang
hopefully cheap from a banged-up body, and put everything 
from it into the Cobra.  I imagine that's what many builders do and car-kits
are setup for.  You don't need much engine with such a light car!

Check out Neil Narwani's Cobra project.  He's got a neat Web site
for it -- http://cessna.med.miami.edu/~cobra/Cobra.html.

Maybe y'all know this already, but it was a surprise to me when I found
out the Cobra's have no doors or windows.  So clearly these are
"weekend" cars that you don't leave parked somewhere, or take out
shopping, etc.

I'd echo Frank's sentiments too.  Check out the Kit-car magazines, they
even have one just for Cobra's I've noticed.

If you're not tied to Detroit, I think you might get as much fun
buying, driving and restoring (and maintaining :) a Triumph TR6 for
half the price.  I used to have a '69, and I just loved it (drove it
across the country).  They have plenty of room to drop in a small V8.
this would kill resell value though.

-Kelly

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:37:39 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Request for Ford power-train info ...
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X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 755

>I'm considering building a Cobra kit.

>Is there anybody that has not thought about a Cobra kit?  Anybody at all?

Funny I was just talking about this at lunch! An interesting question came
out of it. Must the kit car meet emissions regulations for the year that it
is built???

>Other general thoughts.  It takes a great deal of $ for these kits;

I got info from Classic Motor Carriges about 2-3 years ago, if I remember
correctly it was around $11,000 for pretty much a stripped down version
without engine/trans.

Mark.


-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:37:44 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno  
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X-From: sdbartho@cca.rockwell.com
Content-Length: 1307


Dirk Broer  writes:

>The problem is to be able to absorb all the power.

>Cheaper solutions:

>2) Hydraulic pump - haven't been able to find a big enough one - besides, hot 
>hydraulic fluid doesn't sound like fun.

It's not that bad. I used to do a little farm tractor work in my dad's diesel
shop, and we had an old M&W Gear P.T.O. driven dyno that we used to break-in
engines after overhaul, (as well as hop 'em up for the field-class tractor
pulls) and it used a hydraulic pump system. Naturally, the oil _would_ get
hot after a while, so the dyno had a big oil cooler with garden hose fittings
that you hooked up to your nearest spigot. Kept the oil to a nice 140 degrees.

The unit we had was only capable of 300 horse @ ~3000 RPM, (in direct drive
mode) but M&W made a larger unit that did 1000 hp @ ~ 4000. Still pretty low
RPM's, but you could maybe run some sort of a gear reduction unit to scale
the revs back.

The price was usually a lot better than $10,000- I bought a 300 horse model
at at tech school disposal sale for $50. They had a larger unit that went
for around $500.

How would you implement the roller scheme? Or were you thinking of just an 
engine dyno?

Dig
sdbartho@hwking.cca.rockwell.com
Syclone/Typhoon mailing list.
Feel the power of the wind.

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:38:29 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Lunchtime Rodding
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X-From: Dave Tartaglia 
Content-Length: 1761


Frank talks about his lunchtime exploits (Boyd's, CSR etc) this week:
> 
> I hope you folks don't much mind the change in venue, but it has
> rained for about two weeks straight; I cannot really work on my car
> laying in the puddle(river?) at my garage door, and want to get some 
> sort of hotrodding in.
> 
> Frank Evan Perdicaro                  Dainippon Screen Engineering of America

Don't mind at all. I like it!  When I go to lunch, all I usually see is
the cafeteria...

But one day we went out to lunch in a different direction. On the way to the
restaurant I glanced into the window of what looked like an old antique shop.
The shop was closed, but when I saw what was inside, I started drooling.

There were antiques, all right, antique motorcycles. Racing motorcycles!
Hubba, hubba. Nortons, BSA's, Triumphs, a Yamaha factory racer from about
1972, and my two-wheeled heart-throb, a Velocette Thruxton, set up to race.

Thereafter, I stopped by every chance I got to look into the window of the
always closed shop. The displays kept changing so I knew that stuff wasn't
abandoned (fat chance).  Then one Saturday I went by and the shop was open.

Turns out that the shop is a hobby of the owner who runs another full-time
business. He is very active in vintage motorcycle racing. He also let on that
if I was interested in vintage Italian bikes, he had another garage-full I 
could look at, too. (pant, pant).

If anyone is interested, the shop is located on King Rd, Malvern, PA,
right next to the the Oasis BBQ Rib Restaurant. What a combo - I'll
have the rib special and a Bonneville to go!
--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:39:01 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Boyd's
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
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>If you happen to be in SoCal, I'd say to skip the Shop, unless you are
>in Stanton at 2:30, but go to the Showroom.  Boyd's has grown a bit
>large and impersonal, but the finished products are still nice to look
>at, and can still be driven around.

One of the various car magazines once reported that Boyd had given a
standing order - If anyone found a kid poking around trying to get a
better look he was to invite the kid in.  Something about Boyd wishing
someone had shown him earlier...


>I hope you folks don't much mind the change in venue, but it has
>rained for about two weeks straight; I cannot really work on my car
>laying in the puddle(river?) at my garage door, and want to get some 
>sort of hotrodding in.

Not at all.  Its good to here that our hobby/sport still has its
friendly edge.  Not to degrade, but the circle track boys tend to be a
little less forgiving = - especially in the pit areas.

However, I am envious of those that can make a living from what I must
always consider a hobby...

Dirk

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 12 18:40:07 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Homemade dyno
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1693

Sorry for the net-noise but I couldn't decipher the address:

>X-From: Steve=Ravet%Prj=Eng%PCPD=Hou@bangate.compaq.com

>Well, you could....
>1)  Connect it to the utility grid and sell the power back to the power 
>company, or

Earlier there was some discussion of this.  It requires a special
hookup - rather an expensive one.  When the power company services the
power lines they expect the lines to be dead (when they throw the
breaker).  If your generating a 100KW they might get a little mad (if
they survive).

>2)  Build a big-ass Tesla coil!!!

Do you think it would interfere with the radio in the garage? 8)

>| The latest and most promising:
>| Multiple disc brakes - in a can - cooled by transmission fluid-sounds cheap, 
>| should be able to take the rpm (have to double check that) and if the tranny 
>| fluid can remove enough heat it should work.  To measure torque (and thus 
>| horsepower - given the output rpm) you would place a lever on the axis of 
>| rotation and put one end on a pressure transducer - or a simple electronic 
>| scale.
>
>Sounds like a good idea.  How exactly do you measure an engines output on a 
>dyno?  Block the throttle open and take torque measurements at different rpms? 

You measure the torque and note the rpm the reading was done at.  You
can measure either the torque required to hold the engine (to keep it
from flopping over) or the torque required to keep your power absorber
from moveing (flopping over the other way).  "Brake Horsepower" used to
be the torque required to keep the engine from increasing its rpm - yes
litterally a brake on the output of the motor.  This is a "hot" idea.

FYI Horsepower = Torque * RPM / 5252

Dirk


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 13 12:23:36 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Homemade dyno
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X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 194

[Try using a ] Very large rotating mass. Step throtTle up, clock
dRPM/dt, get torque as change in angular momentum per time. Let the
engine brake the mass, or hold new speed for the next step.


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 13 12:23:42 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re:Boyd's
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X-From: kking@io.com (kenneth c king)
Content-Length: 982

in the hotrod list, frank p. is alleged to have said:
>Today's luncheon pilgramage found us at Boyd's.  After a few years of 
>hearing the hype, we decided to go down and see the shop.  

  [ munch ]
>old style '55 Chevy in black and a red English (???) 3000.  On the
  probably a healy.  nice cars (both real ones & most of the kits).
this type of car (& it's siblings) are refered to as 'big' healy's,
as opposed to the bug eyed sprites (etc...) that were tiny sportscars.

  [ munch ]
>I hope you folks don't much mind the change in venue, but it has
>rained for about two weeks straight; I cannot really work on my car
>laying in the puddle(river?) at my garage door, and want to get some 
>sort of hotrodding in.
  not a problem.  sounds quite interesting.  i guess the rain is a
payback (w/ interest) for the drought?  too bad it wasn't stretched
out over a few months...  hopefully it will go away & you can get back
to wrenching (& i've got to get back to mine!)

later,
kc

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 13 12:23:50 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Request for Ford power-train info ... 
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X-From: "Fontana Peter" 
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> I'm considering building a Cobra kit.  The current phase of this project is
cost vs. performance vs. effort analysis.
> 1)	Which Ford engines would be best suited for a fun/aggressive street
	machine (I'm leaning towards 351 - 428 CI range)?  
> 2)	I want EFI.
> 3)	I would like a 6-speed manual transmission but will settle for 5

The current 302 is attractive from the cost and weight perspective.  I
heard yesterday about someone who got 611 hp from a 310 (302) with a
single 4v (and many thousands of dollars),  so there's plenty of
potential there.

However, in my book a 351W is probably the best match if I guess your
"needs" right.  It's the only motor besides the 302 that you can do
Ford SEFI on for reasonable expense/effort.  400 hp is fairly easy to
hit, and a blower can plop you on the other side of 500 easily.  It is
also a good cubic inch/pound "value".  The short block is considered
more durable than a stock 351C, and for a grand (or so) you can get
Edelbrock aluminum heads that flow as much as you need.  For twice that
$, ported TFS aluminum heads will flow more than any sane person could
ever need.  (Nobody on this list is sane - right?).

You can get crate 351W from Ford's SVO for about $4000 that has their
trick GT-40 SEFI intake and heads (correct me if I'm wrong - I'm
working from memory here).

Anyway, since you don't seem to be a purist, I wouldn't go the
$15,000+ needed for a complete 427, and the cheaper FE alternatives
(330, 352, 390, 406, 410, 428) are pretty heavy, can be more expensive
than a 351W approach (to get to 400hp anyway), aren't easy SEFI
applications, and probably aren't what you want.

The "385" series big blocks from Ford - the 429 and 460 - may be the
cheapest route to 400+ hp with a carb, but most of the FE comments
apply.

If you want some 351W buildup ideas, I've been putting together some
detailed alternatives for a '69 Mustang project I just started.  For
$7000-$8000, you can put together a professionally built and dynoed
351W long-rod motor that makes over 450 HP, and is very streetable (no
smog, though).  This motor should last quite a while, and the price
includes EVERYTHING - fan to bellhousing, "air cleaner" to oil pan.
The super trick hipo SEFI grossness is almost $3000 itself.  If you
shop around, or choose less "exclusive" parts, of course you may do
better.  ALl my pricing is based on quick phone calls - I've made no
attempt to "deal" yet.

Your various major options ($-wise) are:  
- $1000 for a low-miles Mustang 5.0 (with SEFI and all related/required
components, accessories, etc) from the junkyard.  Not "killer" out of
the box, but the aftermarket is FULL of stuff for a good price to move
you up the HP scale.

- $4000 for a new crate 351W from Ford SVO.  You can get a very legal
and docile 320+ hp , with plenty of room to grow.

- $8000 for a custom built 351W.  This gives you $ for some of the best
induction, heads, and long-rod (or whatever your engine guru likes)
stuff.  In this territory, you can build a motor that will live longer
at 6500 rpm than the SVO crate motor will live at 5000.

In all cases, you want to use a MAF-based system, not the speed
density.   I think the '89-up (help?) Mustangs had MAFs.  MAF systems
are much more adaptable to engine mods.


TRANNYS:
You can get a T-56 for about $2500 (nothing from Ford comes with a 6
speed), and a Tremec 5 speed can be had for about $1500.  You know that
extra grand gets you a third of the way to a blower... or maybe you'll
have to use it as a down payment on those pin drive Halibrands you'll
need.    ;-)

I'd stay away from T-5's unless you plan to run a bone-stock 5.0.  Then
just get it with the motor (from the junkyard).

Keep us posted on your progress, like when you figure out either how
much HP you want, or how much $ you want to put into the motor.


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 13 12:24:02 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: FW: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno
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X-From: "Ciciora Steve" 
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The latest and most promising:
Multiple disc brakes - in a can - cooled by transmission fluid - sounds
cheap, should be able to take the rpm (have to double check that) and
if the tranny fluid can remove enough heat it should work.  To measure
torque (and thus horsepower - given the output rpm) you would place a
lever on the axis of rotation and put one end on a pressure transducer
- or a simple electronic scale.



Much along the lines I have been thinking of.  I thought about using a
garden hose to cool the rotors, though.  To make life a little simpler
(and bigger), how about a rear end, w/ a bering so it can rotate around
the drive shaft axis.  Use the breaks already installed on the rear
end, and keep the leaf springs on the rear end.  Calibrate the force vs
displacement of the leaf springs (like by standing on them and seing
how much the rear end 'rotates').  That way by applying the breaks, the
rear end wants to rotate, but is prevented by the leaf springs.  By
measuring how much the springs deflect, you can get an idea about how
much torque is on the drive shaft.  This would be the rear-wheel horse
power (w/ losses due to the transmission and rear end) which is what
I'm interested in anyway.  Sounds big, but cheaper than $10k.  What do
you guys think?  

[ I thought about something like this.  If you alter it a little, 
put a spool in the rear end, and then float the load on its own
set of bearings, you can read torque directly.  For example, 
if you were to make a jig that had one hydraulic pump on each
"wheel", each connected to a load, with the jig sprun with coil
springs and rotating about the axel line, you have direct torque
readout.  If you were to use air shocks and good geometry, you could
use a digital air pressure guage to read torque directly.  

Similarly, you could use disk brakes in place of the hydraulic pump.  
Remember, if you are producing 500 hp, the 500hp will be dissipated in
the brakes.  Better use carbon fiber pads!  --FEP ]

-Steven Ciciora


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 16 11:59:03 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Request for Ford power-train info ...
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 421


-> SO to see these things through.  Make a realistic schedule, double
-> it, and then buy all the parts.  You will be MUCH more inclined to
-> finish

 YES!  Get all the kit parts ASAP.  Even reputable companies sometimes
have problems.  Most kits are just different enough to cause troubles
mixing parts.
                                                                                                                 

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 16 11:59:07 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject:       Re: The continuing saga of the home-made engine dyno
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X-From: "Mark Blunier" 
Content-Length: 709

A project that was done for a engineering open house was to show
how drive shafts twist.  The pto of a tractor was hooked up to
a dyno.  The drive shaft on the pto has fitted with a gear on
each end.  A magnetic pickup was used to sense when the teeth
went by.  By using a oscilliscope, we could measure the time lag
between the two peaks on the two gears.  Using rpm, the amount
of twist was determined.  Plugging the amount of twist and the
modulous of elasticity of the steel drive shaft, torque/hp was
determined.  It was within about 5% of what the old dyno was
reading.  With some ingenuity, a setup like this could be put
on a cars drive train, and youd have yourself a moving dyno.

Mark W. Blunier
 

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 16 16:03:49 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Variable Lifters
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X-From: Jason"6=8"Borkowsky@eden.rutgers.edu
Content-Length: 795

   What is the general concensus on variable rate lifters? (Not
necessarily Rhoades as Crane also makes them). Basically I have an I-6
engine with a 218/218 camand a 2.56 rear which runs really nice on the
highway with a decent mpg rating, but for city driving the idle is
slightly rough and gas consumption is really quite high (about 9mpg in
the city as compared to 25mpg on the highway). A few people have
commented they are a quick (but noisy) fix for an over-sized cam, but
my cam runs great above 1500rpms, so I don't consider it to be that
oversized. Any suggestions are appreciated!

						Jason

The rain it raineth on the just
	And also on the unjust fella.
But chiefly on the just because
	The unjust steals the just's umbrella

(jcborkow@ece.rutgers.edu)
(jcborkow@eden.rutgers.edu)

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 16 18:48:20 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Big #'s from SBCs
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
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A recent Chevy magazine article describes a 406" SBC that created some 
pretty impressive dyno numbers (490 ftlbs/430 hp).  The article wasn't 
specific regarding rod length and CR, but did state that the engine was 
utilizing a Comp Cams (I think...) 270DEH dual-pattern cam, an Edelbrock 
Performer RPM intake, BG 650 DP, Brodix Track 1 heads with 2.08/1.60 
valves, and 1 5/8" headers (although the best hp was with 1 3/4" headers).

The tests were run with 31 degrees total advance.

The engine used a steel crank and aftermarket splayed 4-bolt caps.  Good 
insurance, but probably overkill for a 6000 RPM motor (I like the Joe 
Sherman approach...)

My question(s) is:  Are these numbers "real world"? What do those Brodix 
heads flow?  What is the port volume?  I would speculate that they're 
beyond the capabilities of the cam/induction/exhaust.  Could this 
combination be replicated or even enhanced with Darts or a good set of 
production heads?  

Eric Offerman has some experience with a 383 that uses both #186s and 
Brodix heads.  As I recall, the Brodix heads offered no significant 
improvement.  Eric, what's your opinion?

Bill

 


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 16 18:48:37 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Variable Lifters
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X-From: jca@fibercom.fibercom.com (James C. Akers)
Content-Length: 2600

>   What is the general concensus on variable rate lifters? (Not
>necessarily Rhoades as Crane also makes them). Basically I have an I-6
>engine with a 218/218 camand a 2.56 rear which runs really nice on the
>highway with a decent mpg rating, but for city driving the idle is
>slightly rough and gas consumption is really quite high (about 9mpg in
>the city as compared to 25mpg on the highway). A few people have
>commented they are a quick (but noisy) fix for an over-sized cam, but
>my cam runs great above 1500rpms, so I don't consider it to be that
>oversized. Any suggestions are appreciated!
>
>						Jason

I will comment on this one...  I have run Rhoades lifters in several
engines, but my primary specimen is my rain ride Chevelle.  Since
I changed the cam and lifters at the same time, I can't conclusively
say that the lifters made any damn difference at all.  :-|  I can
say that they have over 50,000 miles on them now and don't appear to
have any change in function.  The engine has an oddball cam .430" lift
and ~300 degrees duration (adv.).  With a performer intake and 
quadrajet, the engine has a really flat and wide torque range (power
dies off quickly after 5000 RPM).  I guess the one bit of evidence
is that you can hear the idle smooth out as the oil gets warmed up,
and the lifters really start bleeding down quicker.  

I guess the questions are...
1. Will they hurt your engine or decrease your maximum performance?
I don't think so, as mine have held together with no problems.
2. Do they actually help bottom-end torque?  Short of putting your
engine on a dyno or doing track times, it is anybody's guess!
3. Would I recommend them?  Yes and No- they are obviously a good
quality "anti-pump-up" lifter.  If you can get them for a couple bucks
more than OEM TRW or Wolverine, etc, then you might give them a try.
I don't think I will use them again simply because they are noisy
as hell (I have heard the Crane ones and they don't sound any different
than any other hydraulic lifter) and _inconsistently_ noisy.
(They often sound like the rockers are too loose, but 5 minutes 
with the old 5/8" socket reveals all rockers are correctly adjusted!
Arrrgh, I hate that!)

Before you go changing lifters, I would check for vaccum leaks, correct
idle mixture adjustment, and even ignition timing!  After that, 
you might want to verify your cam timing- it might be too advanced.

hope this helps,
jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 17 11:58:20 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: re: Variable Lifters
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hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List) Wrote:
| 
| 
|    What is the general concensus on variable rate lifters? (Not
| necessarily Rhoades as Crane also makes them). Basically I have an I-6
| engine with a 218/218 camand a 2.56 rear which runs really nice on the
| highway with a decent mpg rating, but for city driving the idle is
| slightly rough and gas consumption is really quite high (about 9mpg in
| the city as compared to 25mpg on the highway). A few people have
| commented they are a quick (but noisy) fix for an over-sized cam, but
| my cam runs great above 1500rpms, so I don't consider it to be that
| oversized. Any suggestions are appreciated!
| 
| 						Jason
| 


Jason -- This was posted to the vettenet a week or so ago:

Date:         Wed, 4 Jan 1995 16:09:21 -0500
Reply-To:     VETTES@ASUVM.INRE.ASU.EDU
Sender:       "For Corvette enthusiasts..1953-1995+" 
From:         Hib Halverson 
Subject:      Variable rate lifters

The original "variable rate lifter" or, more properly, the calibrated
bleed-down lifter was the Rhoads design which was introduced many years
ago.  When the Rhoads lifter became popular, the major camshaft
copanies jumped on the bandwagon and now, everyone has a product like
this. In fact, some companies (Competition Cams for example) have a
couple of different ones.

Basically, this type of lifter is manufactured such that the clearance
between the lifter body and the center is set at a very, very precise
dimension and is just a teensy bit more than a conventional, production
or high-performance hydraulic lifter.

This allows a very specific (ie: calibrated) amount of bleed down
which, in turn, allows the lifter to bleed down enough that duration
and lift at the valve is slightly less than what would be normal (ie:
lobe lift X rocker ratio). This effect is most pronounced at
low-speeds, is less in the mid-range and is virtually non-existant at
high engine speeds. This is because the time in which the lifter can
bleed becomes increasingly less as engine speed increases but the time
required for a given amount of bleed is constant. Soooooo....the faster
things are happening, the less the lifter bleeds.

An engine with Rhoads lifters will idle better and have better low-end
torque because at low engine speeds duration and lift are shortened up.
Yet, at high rpm, the engine sees the camshaft's full duration and
lift.

Now, this might seem like a freebe, but there are compromises and the
big one is noise. A truly effective calibrated-bleed lifter will be
noisy at idle.  The ones that are advertised as being less noisy that
others achieve that reduced noise through a reduction of the bleed-down
and, of course, do not offer as much shortening of duration and lift.

Rhoads sound a lot like a misadjusted, standard hydraulic lifter. As
engine speed picks up the noise reduces somewhat. However some noise
remains throughout the rpm range of the engine and is more pronounced
the more aggressive the camshaft profile. Note that any valve train
using hyd. lifters (bleed-down, conventional or roller ) will make some
noise when used with an aggressive cam profile...which is exaclty why
Chevrolet reprofiled the camshaft for the 93 LT1.

The second compromise is that they are sensitive to adjustment. Always
adjust a Rhoads, a Crane "Fast-Bleed" or other calibrated-bleed lifter
exactly as the manufacturer recommends. A third compromise is that the
amount of bleed-down (and, in turn, the amount of duration and lift
reduction) is partially dependant on oil temperature and viscosity. The
lower the viscosity and/or the higher the oil temperature; the more
pronounced the reduction and the higher in the rpm band it will remain
significant. DO NOT attempt to gain more duration and lift reduction by
going to a lower than recommended oil viscosity! If you do, you will
compromise your engine's durability.

A bleed-down lifter is STILL subject to the same rules re: maximum rpm
as is any hyd. lifter. They will pump up at about the same point as a
hi-po hydraulic so if you run your motor above 6500 rpm, you'd better
use a mechanical lifter.

I have used Rhoads lifters for many, many years in the small-blocks in
my Chevelle and have never experienced any valve train trouble due to
the lifters...other than some minor difficulty because of  my initial
misunderstanding of the adjustment procedure. The Rhoads is very
effective, once oil temperature stabilizes. It's been a long time since
I ran tests, but I remember 2-3 in. increase in vacuum at idle with the
Rhoads lifters, a Competition Cams 280H Magnum, Valvoline 30wt. race
oil and a non-thermostat oil cooler. The current combination in the
motor is a Comp. Cams 275H, Rhoads lifters, Chevy pusrods, Edelbrock
Torker-Plus rockers, Chevy "140" valve springs and stock valves.
Currently I use Red Line 10W-40 oil. No special "break-in" procedures
are necessary with a Rhoads lifter other than understanding the
adjustment procedure.

Many years ago, when calibrated bleed-down lifters were new on the
market, there were quality problems associated with holding the bleed
dimension tolerance. Just a couple of ten-thousandths of an inch can
make a difference between a bleed-down lifter that bleeds too much and
one that bleeds not enough or, worse, not at all. There were  cases
where lifters would vary in their individual bleed effects so much that
the engine would see no improvment at idle.  However, modern machining
technolgy and metrology eliminated virtually all those kinds of QC
problems a long time ago.

For more info: contact Rhoads Lifters, Box 220, Snowflake, AZ
85937-0220 or call 602-536-7503.

cYa
H. Halverson
finspeed@aol.com


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 13:10:47 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: good gasket sealant re-post
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: warwick@daisy.wes.army.mil (Jon Warwick)
Content-Length: 887

   Gents,

   I am truly peeved. I toiled for 3 months working as a labor of love,
totally rebuilding and spiking up a 350 SBC.  This was my first ever
motor take-down but I managed to pull it off with a motor that is
strong and smooth.

   Here is the bitter part. Nearly every mating surface where two parts
meet leaks oil. No- not badly but just enough to irritate the shit out
of me. I used Edelbrocks "Gasgacinch" gasket sealant and I have to say
it failed miserably.

   This labor of love is now going to turn into a dreaded -gotta do but
don't want to- project where I painstakingly clean and re-seal these
surfaces via the methods and materials that YOU NICE EXPERTS suggest
for a sure-fire fix.

   Please, I know that this sounds like a trivial "hot- rodding" question,
but could someone please help me on this one? I would greatly
appreciate it!

					Thanks, Jon Warwick 



From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 13:11:07 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Variable rate lifters
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Randy Brown 
Content-Length: 1338

> hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List) Wrote:
> | 
> |    What is the general concensus on variable rate lifters? (Not
> | necessarily Rhoades as Crane also makes them).
> 
> Jason -- This was posted to the vettenet a week or so ago:
> 
> Date:         Wed, 4 Jan 1995 16:09:21 -0500
> Sender:       "For Corvette enthusiasts..1953-1995+" 
> From:         Hib Halverson 
> Subject:      Variable rate lifters
> 
> The original "variable rate lifter" or, more properly, the calibrated
> bleed-down lifter was the Rhoads design which was introduced many years
> ago.  When the Rhoads lifter became popular, the major camshaft
> copanies jumped on the bandwagon and now, everyone has a product like
> this. In fact, some companies (Competition Cams for example) have a
> couple of different ones.

I used Rhoads lifters when installing a .500 lift long duration cam
in a Pontiac 389 at 11:1 compression.  They worked great, I had a
nearly stock, slightly bumpy idle, but definitely got all the power
out of the cam.  Yes, they click constantly, but just open up your
exhaust some and it won't bother you!  I thought they were great.

Randy

-- 
Randy Brown      SAS email:  randy@unx.sas.com   Work #: (919) 677-8000, x6852
SAS Institute    UNC email:  brown@cs.unc.edu    Home #: (919) 732-5458

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 13:11:10 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1746



I FINALLY got a professional alignment with my new tubular A-Arm/Delalum/
disk brake setup.  What a difference!  I should have done it about 100
miles ago.  Having driven around for a while this morning, plus the
200 miles of other driving, I am ready to say that the new front
end is worth the cost.  It really sticks and stops.

One side effect of my Chevelle's new-found turning ability really sucks.
I can now turn-in so hard that the body moves enough on the rear axel
to cause the rear tires' sidewalls to rub the fender.  Its pretty much
only on turn-in, but can also happen at sustained high-G cornering.
As a result, I am looking at the Hochkiss and Global West axel locating
hardware.

The setup has almost completely eliminated tricycling, but I am
nearly sure that it will come back with a good posi unit.  Jeff
Smith's ( HRM ) car is nearly identical to mine with the exception 
of a 6 point roll cage and fresh posi unit, and his car is always 
lifting one tire.  Anybody with real experience in this area?

Another related issues concerns the rear axel wheel studs.  Mine are
too short for comfort.  I could make a jig to press out the studs
using a piece of 5/8 aluminum plate and my harmonic balancer puller.
The studs would come out without removing the axles or brakes ( gee,
should I patent this thing? )  I was told this morning that new
studs MUST be pressed in, and cannot be pulled in with a nut.  Is
this the truth?  Do I really have to remove the axles to press new 
studs in?

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 16:11:45 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: cam timing
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Tom Carver 
Content-Length: 1871

Has anyone played around much with cam timing?  

On most of the new "true roller" type timing chains, they have
provisions for mounting the top sprocket plus or minus 3 or 6 degrees
or whatever it is.

Can you make a big cam (with a little too much lift and duration) and
make it a little more streetable by messing around with the cam
timing?  Or is that a Mickey Mouse way to do things?

It seems that the cam companies probably make their cams with the ideal
cam timing built in, but has anyone ever IMPROVED their performance by
altering the cam timing?  I know about "dialing in" a cam, where you
get the cam to be where it's SUPPOSED to be, but I'm wondering if you
can achieve anything good by purposely messing with the cam timing.

Say you had a 460 Ford, and you wanted to make it have maximum torque
from idle to 5,000 rpm.  Could you achieve that by using a "big" cam
meant for 2,000 rpm up to 7,000 rpm and then altering the cam timing to
get more low end power and better idle vacuum?

What I'm really asking is how do you go about getting a LOT of power in
the 5,000 - 5,500 rpm range without sacrificing driveablility in the
1,000 - 1,500 rpm range?  A big lift, short duration cam?

I used to have a car with an "RV" cam.  It was a blast to drive around
town because it had a lot of low end torque and good throttle response,
but after about 4,000 rpm it was pitiful.  Now the car has a "big" cam
and has tons of power in the high end, but it's not too exciting to
drive around town.

Is there anyway to get the feel of an "RV" cam, but still have tons of
top end power?  That's what I'd like to have in whatever my next hot
rod turns out to be.  Maybe the secret is to have a big block with a
fairly tame cam so that it'll have more torque than I could ever need
throughout the 0 - 5,000 rpm range, and hopefully mileage that's not
too terrible.

Tom


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 16:12:24 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Gasket sealant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1988


>   Here is the bitter part. Nearly every mating surface where two parts
>meet leaks oil. No- not badly but just enough to irritate the shit out
>of me. I used Edelbrocks "Gasgacinch" gasket sealant and I have to say
>it failed miserably.

"every mating surface" - means valve covers, timing chaing cover and
oil pan.

Personaly I always use a thin bead of blue goo.  Just enough so that it
gets squeezed evenly out when everything gets tightened.  I use this on
water passages as well.

Pro's:
1) Good Seal - never leaks!
2) Easy to dissassemble and clean
3) Holds the gasket inplace  during assembly.

Con's
1) A little get squeezed on the the inside of the engine...  Normally
shouldn't be a problem 2) Not good with gasoline - I tried this on an
intake manifold once - assuming its only gasoline vapors - it lasted
about the time it took me to go from the driver's seat to the front of
the car....

For intake manifold I use pliable or removable permatex sealant ("2B" I
think).

My last two projects (one finished in December, the other 2 days ago)
are bone dry.  In fact the one done in December is coming up on a 3000
mile oil change and I didn't have to add a drop of oil....

I would like to find a better solution for the intake manifold - the
pliable stuff literally remains so, and I'm afraid it will eventually
degrade.

I would not recommend the blue-goo or "form-a-gasket" or silcon sealer
without a paper gasket.  Silcon doesn't seem to cling to metal all that
well and if there is oil on it forget it.  A nice clean gasket makes a
good anchor.

If your trying to seal against high-pressure - an old chrysler trick
(Big blocks with external oil pumps) is to use "Yellow Death" or
weather strip adhesive.  This stuff is strong - and a real PTA to get
off you fingers.  It can basically hold a window in a car... I used it
to "glue" a roll up window into its frame.  The temporary repair has
lasted 3 years... (my junk truck).

Anyone else have any good suggestions?

Dirk

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 16:13:20 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 
Content-Length: 3478

>I FINALLY got a professional alignment with my new tubular A-Arm/Delalum/
>disk brake setup.  What a difference!  I should have done it about 100
>miles ago.  Having driven around for a while this morning, plus the
>200 miles of other driving, I am ready to say that the new front
>end is worth the cost.  It really sticks and stops.

>One side effect of my Chevelle's new-found turning ability really sucks.
>I can now turn-in so hard that the body moves enough on the rear axel
>to cause the rear tires' sidewalls to rub the fender.  Its pretty much
>only on turn-in, but can also happen at sustained high-G cornering.
>As a result, I am looking at the Hochkiss and Global West axel locating
>hardware.

The Hochkiss setup is pretty good and will definitely help a location
problem.  If you felt like getting lively with the tig and sheet steel
you could fabricate your own brackets for a panhard rod, but that would
probably be more trouble than it is worth in your situation.  How much
do you have to put into an axle locating device?  Cost-benefit would be
pretty high if you're not planning to get real serious with it.

[ No tig eaisly available to me.  As for the Cost-benefit, if the
wheelwells cut my BFG Comp TAs, it will cost about as much as
buying a locator, but I'll then have to buy a locator and two 
new Comp TAs.   And yes, I intend to keep getting more serious, 
as I intend to run in this fall's Silver State Challenge.  --FEP ]

>The setup has almost completely eliminated tricycling, but I am
>nearly sure that it will come back with a good posi unit.  Jeff
>Smith's ( HRM ) car is nearly identical to mine with the exception 
>of a 6 point roll cage and fresh posi unit, and his car is always 
>lifting one tire.  Anybody with real experience in this area?

Lifting a tire during cornering is a load balance problem most likely
caused by vastly differing roll resistence or roll center heights.  The
lateral axle movement is one thing and vertical movement is a whole
other story.

[ Agreed.   The problem with lateral movement ( in this case ) is
that it moves the rear "lift" or "instant" center laterally, for
example into the plane of the left front tire, because the A-body
linkage makes the lateral movement into a rotation through the
vertical axis of the car.  This produces ( in the RH turn case )
LF tire lift and oversteer, a bad combination made even worse
in the LH turn case where engine torque in combination wants to
lift the RF and RR tires.  --FEP ] 

>Another related issues concerns the rear axel wheel studs.  Mine are
>too short for comfort.  I could make a jig to press out the studs
>using a piece of 5/8 aluminum plate and my harmonic balancer puller.
>The studs would come out without removing the axles or brakes ( gee,
>should I patent this thing? )  I was told this morning that new >studs
MUST be pressed in, and cannot be pulled in with a nut.  Is >this the
truth?  Do I really have to remove the axles to press new >studs in?

I have never tried it that way but that doesn;t mean it wouldn't work.
I suppose as long as you made sure the studs were seated REAL well and you
were good enough not to damage the loaded surface (scuffing, burnishing,
scoring etc.) you might be able to get away with it.  

[ Care to suggest or refute any heating, beating or lubrication
tricks for stud installation?  I was going to put the studs in the 
deep freeze and lube them on the way in.  --FEP ]

Preston Marshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.org


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Jan 18 16:15:17 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: good gasket sealant re-post
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Carhead@aol.com
Content-Length: 178

I've used Permatex Aviation sealant for years and it keeps engines
leak-free.  It's thick enough and dries just hard enough to fill in the
gaps and not get washed out.  Try it.


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 19 15:00:33 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Content-Length: 1084

Hotrod List writes:
> 
> [ Care to suggest or refute any heating, beating or lubrication
> tricks for stud installation?  I was going to put the studs in the 
> deep freeze and lube them on the way in.  --FEP ]

Ever tried Loc-tite's pressfit assist?

[ No, but I'll keep it in mind.  Got a product number?
The rest of you post came a bit jumbled.  Sorry about the hacking.
I assume you are talking about Rhoads lifters.  --FEP ]

Crower also sells those doohickeys...  but when we asked him about them,
he didn't have anything good to say about them.  You'll never see full
lift out of your cam and they are inconsistant.

As for your car, it sounds like it could benefit greatly from good
computerized (map vs speed) ignition control and an EFI system with
idle air control...   then again, what car couldn't? :)

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://www.mtsu.edu/~lusky/                 (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 19 17:52:45 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: cam timing 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 2059


> Has anyone played around much with cam timing?  

> What I'm really asking is how do you go about getting a LOT of power in
> the 5,000 - 5,500 rpm range without sacrificing driveablility in the
> 1,000 - 1,500 rpm range?  A big lift, short duration cam?

In short, changing cam timing can relocate the RPM range by something
like (I'm guessing now) 100 rpm for each degree, but it can't widen it. 

High overlap and long duration is what decreases low-rpm power.
Higher lift is a win-win, but there is a limit on how fast you
can open (and more importantly close) the valve, so it usually
means increasing the duration too.  Roller cams help here since
they can have more agressive ramps.  For a high-rate of valve closing,
you need a stiff valve spring to prevent valve float, and this
steals horsepower, so another tradeoff.

> Say you had a 460 Ford, and you wanted to make it have maximum torque
> from idle to 5,000 rpm.  Could you achieve that by using a "big" cam
> meant for 2,000 rpm up to 7,000 rpm and then altering the cam timing to
> get more low end power and better idle vacuum?

Speaking of which, I have a 460 Ford, and recently selected a camshaft
for it.  I went with a .500 lift, 218 duration cam, 114 centerline 
(low overlap).  I think the advertised range is 1500-4500.
It'll work with stock valve-springs, and I'll installed retarded 
4-degrees (stock late-460 retard), bringing the RPM range up
a bit to give a little less launch power (better traction -- it's a drag car).

> Is there anyway to get the feel of an "RV" cam, but still have tons of
> top end power?  That's what I'd like to have in whatever my next hot
> rod turns out to be.  Maybe the secret is to have a big block with a
> fairly tame cam so that it'll have more torque than I could ever need
> throughout the 0 - 5,000 rpm range, and hopefully mileage that's not
> too terrible.

Well, that's the ticket!  The 460 with this mild-ish cam should pull hard 
throughout the RPM range.  But at 10mpg (850 Holley)
It's expensive to drive it very far!

-Kelly Murray

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Jan 19 20:06:35 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: good gasket sealant re-post
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
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X-From: Carhead@aol.com
Content-Length: 178

I've used Permatex Aviation sealant for years and it keeps engines
leak-free.  It's thick enough and dries just hard enough to fill in the
gaps and not get washed out.  Try it.


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 20 11:28:47 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #95-2*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 9223

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now beginning its 4th and final year of weekly publication, TVE is a 
compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, 
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special 
thanks to Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many 
regional sports networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your 
local listings before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

Monster Trucks                        01/21    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MotorWeek                             01/21    4:35-5:05AM      WJZ
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/21    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Sports Cavalcade                      01/21    9:30-10:25AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             01/21    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/21    10:25-10:30AM    TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/21    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
MotorWeek                             01/21    12:30-1:00PM     WUSA
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/21    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/21    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/21    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               01/21    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Wide World Of Sports (athlete of year)01/21    4:30-6:00PM      ABC
MotorWeek (Benz G-Wagon)              01/21    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
MotoWorld                             01/21    7:00-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotoWorld                             01/22    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/22    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic (towing upgrades)  01/22    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (DW & G Bodine)   01/22    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/22    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Movie: Smokey & The Bandit            01/22   10:35AM-12:35PM   TBS
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/22    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/22   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Movie: Stroker Ace                    01/22    12:00-2:00PM     WTTG
N Bonnett's Winners (DW & G Bodine)   01/22    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/22    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/22    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (towing upgrades)  01/22    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
NASCAR WINSTON WEST, TUCSON (L)       01/22    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/22    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/22    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/22    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/22   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/23    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
Sports Cavalcade                      01/23    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/23    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
MotorWeek                             01/23    2:30-3:00AM      WGN
MotoWorld                             01/23    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
SCORE, BAJA 1000 (T)                  01/23    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        01/24    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 01/24    2:00-3:30PM      EMPS,
				       HTS,MSG,PASS,PRTK,PSN,SCNE,SCP
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/25    1:00-2:00AM      SPTS
The Power & The Glory                 01/25    12:30-1:00PM     HIST
The Power & The Glory                 01/25    5:30-6:00PM      HIST
For Race Fans Only                    01/25    9:00-10:00PM     QVC
Auto Shop                             01/25    10:00-11:00PM    QVC
Mario on Letterman's show (T)         01/25   11:35PM-12:35AM   CBS
The Road To Indy                      01/26    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
For Race Fans Only                    01/26    1:00-2:00AM      QVC
Monster Trucks                        01/26    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/26    2:00-3:00PM      EMPS,
					    HTS,MSG,PASS,PRTK,PSN,SCP
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/26    6:00-7:00PM      HSE
MotorWeek (Sentra & Protege)          01/26    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
Monster Trucks                        01/27    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             01/28    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/28    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             01/28    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             01/28    7:00-7:30AM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30PM           TNN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HR (T)               02/11    9:30-11:00PM     ESPN
NASCAR, BUSCH CLASH (?)               02/12    tba              tba
IROC #1, DAYTONA                      02/15 (live coverage is unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)  :-)   :-)   02/19    12:15PM          CBS
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/26    12:30PM          TNN
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/05    1:15PM           TBS
INDYCAR, MIAMI (L)                    03/05    tba              ABC [1]
FORMULA 1, ARGENTINA (?)              03/12    tba              tba [1]
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/12    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HR (L)               03/18    10:30-11:30AM    ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HR (L)               03/18    1:30-3:00PM      ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HR (L)               03/18    10:00-11:00PM    ESPN
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (L) 03/19    5:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, OZ (?)                       03/19    tba              ABC [1]
IROC #2, DARLINGTON                   03/25 (live coverage is unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (?)                 03/26    tba              tba [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/26    1:00PM           ESPN

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races.  The races are 
usually broadcast on a tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening 
following the race.  I understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to 
delay the broadcast as much as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so 
please use extra caution if you plan to tape the race.  If you have 
access to it, and your French isn't too rusty, you may also want to 
check out RDS.  RDS broadcasts every F1 race and most IndyCar races, and 
their F1 coverage usually also includes a 30 minute prerace show.  RDS 
and TSN generally use the ESPN feed, while CBC generally uses the BBC 
feed.  The exception to these rules is the Canadian Grand Prix.  Only 
CBC and SRC have the rights to the Canadian GP.  Thanks to Pierre 
Mailhot and Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
DIS      The Disney Channel
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HIST     The History Channel
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"
WRC      Washington, DC
WTTG     Washington, DC
WUSA     Washington, DC
-------

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 20 11:29:45 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 1078


-> lifting one tire.  Anybody with real experience in this area?

 You can combat that problem by lowering the rear roll center with a
Watts link or Panhard rod.  The Panhard will let you get it lower than
the Watts.

 Lowering the rear roll center will reduce weight transfer to the outer
tire, plus it will reduce the built-in roll steer from the roll axis
inclination.  And if you think the car turns in good now, you ain't seen
*nothin* until you add the Panhard!


-> this the truth?  Do I really have to remove the axles to press new
-> studs in?

 I can produce Ford and GM manuals showing pulling the new studs in with
nuts.  In is in; I wouldn't worry much about whatever you've been told.

 There are various opinions about beating them out.  Usually one good
whack with the sledge will get them out.  Detractors say that's a good
chance to ding the bearing races.  Others say it's nothing compared to
some of the loads you get on the road.  I figure it's probably a good
idea to use a stud puller, but I've never dinged a bearing that I know
of.
                   

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 20 11:29:47 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: good gasket sealant re-post  
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: sdbartho@cca.rockwell.com
Content-Length: 538


As far as cleaning goes, it's hard to beat the 3M velcro-backed
abrasive discs. They clean mating surfaces quite well and the won't
damage the surface.  (Be careful on aluminum, though!)

For a sealant, I'd recommend Permatex High-Tack. (Not the spray stuff)
The regular permatex works well too.

For the "bathtub" seals on the ends of the intake manifold, (The ones
that always squeeze out) chuck the rubber gaskets, and just use
silicone (Loctite black works well). Make sure it's clean, though.

Dig
sdbartho@hwking.cca.rockwell.com


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan 21 22:46:48 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1156


>-> lifting one tire.  Anybody with real experience in this area?
>
> Lowering the rear roll center will reduce weight transfer to the outer
>tire, plus it will reduce the built-in roll steer from the roll axis
>inclination.  And if you think the car turns in good now, you ain't seen
>*nothin* until you add the Panhard!

Actually lower the roll center will increase the weight transfer - requiring 
stiffer springs and or roll bars....  Also installing a Panhard bar while 
keeping the upper mounts intacked will have two roll centers on the car - the 
one due to the Panhard and the one due to the 4 links.  With rubber in the 
right places it'll work but the real solution is to ditch the upper links and 
install a torque arm.

If you fabricate your own Panhard - pay special attention to the axle mount.  
Panhards are normall straight and should be mounted level with  the ground.  
This means the axle mount may be rather tall and thus put alot of bending force 
on the mount.  This is the difference between a good set-up and a cheapy bolt-
on.  At speed you want the Panhard to survive should you get the car sideways 
and hit a bump etc.

Dirk

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan 21 22:47:23 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Homemade dyno 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 1408


The rear-end idea sounds like a good inexpensive way to go.
It would needs a LOT of braking capacity though.  It would
be best to have disk brakes so they could be cooled using
some external cooling, like blowing a water mist over them.
However, I think you can get some serious braking power
by going with a heavy-duty truck rear-end, like perhaps those
used in dump-trucks and the like.  Maybe just a 1-ton truck would do.
Probably no disk brakes, but might be enough.
And by putting in some really high gears (like 6-8:1), which
probably come stock with these trucks, you'd reduce the wheel
RPM quite a bit.

Instead of floating the rear and measuring the torque there,
I would hold it firm, and go with measuring the driveshaft twist 
idea to get the torque.  But instead of a driveshaft, I suggest
using a torsion bar,  having one made, or perhaps using a 
beefy rear-axle (another truck item)  This would dramatically 
increase the sensitivity of torque changes.

Moreover, I don't think you want to have a transmission attached
to the engine since it'll probably burn out the torque converter
in short order.  So attach the torsion bar directly from the engine
back to the rear-end.

Sounds like it might be able to be built for around $500, 
which is about within my budget!  

I wonder if I can get one of the magazines to run a story 
on building it, and get them to fork out the $500?

-Kelly




From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan 21 22:47:10 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Gasket sealant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Robert Gallant"  
Content-Length: 850

In message <9501182058.AA09807@server.eng.dsea.com>  writes:
> 
> >   Here is the bitter part. Nearly every mating surface where two parts
> >meet leaks oil. No- not badly but just enough to irritate the shit out
> >of me. I used Edelbrocks "Gasgacinch" gasket sealant and I have to say
> >it failed miserably.

The best RTV I have used is the GM brand.  It is expensive, $20, and comes in a 
large calking gun tube.

I was looking for some RTV to use on the intake manifold of a corvette.  I 
called the various Co's that make RTV and they all said to use the GM stuff.

It sets up fairly quickly and has very strong adhesion to the metal surfaces.
If anyone is interested I will look up the GM part number of the exact RTV I 
used.

The downside is that once it is opened, it must be used in about 6 months.

Later

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil



From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Jan 21 22:47:10 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: cam timing
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Carhead@aol.com
Content-Length: 395

If you advance the cam timing you bring in more bottom end.  If you
retard it you bring in the top.  You go by the cam grinder's specs
(where they say its power band is) and go from there, based on gears,
stall speed (if automatic), carburetion, weight of the car, etc..  It's
not rocket science, but knowing all the criteria helps.  Straight-up
(0-degrees) is the best bet if you're not sure.


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:26:16 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: 383 TBI
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: ChvyPwr@aol.com
Content-Length: 807

Has anybody had any experience with building a 383 stroker and using a
TBI to fuel.  I have an 88 full size Chevy Blazer and want to keep the
ECM.  I have been told that I should trash the stock TBI and replace it
with a four barrel Holley Pro-Jection unit with a special Prom to work
with my stock ECM.  Is this the best way to go or is there a better
route?

[ In the past year or so the experience of this list has been mostly
bad.  The Holley stuff simply does not have enough tunability.

I've heard more than once that a good flowing 383 does not map to any
stock GM EFI.  You can probably trick it with larger injectors or 
higher fuel pressure.  Good luck, and have fun.

Edelbrock makes a $1500 solution and ACCEL makes a $2500 solution.
You may find these too expensive.  --FEP ]

Thanks,
ChvyPwr

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:26:29 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: cam shafts
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Carhead@aol.com
Content-Length: 203

<403 Olds cam lit.>

Most cam manufactuers have good guidlines in their catalogs.  If you call
someone like Crane and tell them all your parameters and requirements they'll
tell you the best cam to use.

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:26:29 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Street Rod -- For Sale -- TX
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: MWKmike@aol.com
Content-Length: 574

1978 Chevy Pick Up -- Street Rod -- Customize with a "Corvette" motif.
350 TPI engine with 5 speed transmission from a 1989 Camaro.  Deep red
paint with Corvette "sharks mouth" and other painted details.  All work
is professionally done, but you need to see the paint!  Also includes
new:  L-88 hood, brushed chrome wheels, tires, A/C, Alpine 4/speaker
sound and alarm system, tube grill, cobra racing seats, 4 point harness
and many other details.  $14,000 f.o.b. Houston.   Respond to
MWKmike@aol.com

[  Too much money.  I thought I'd post this one for a laugh.  --FEP]


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:26:32 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Pep Boys Batteries
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 440

A few weeks ago I reported my three tales of woe, including my
problem with a Pep Boys battery.  This note is a followup to
that report.

I took the defective battery back to Pep Boys and asked for
a credit.  Instead, they refunded cash.  There was no hassle,
and only a minimal amount of questions.

They'll continue to get my business for other automotive parts
since they were so decent about the return.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:26:31 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 1842


-> Actually lower the roll center will increase the weight transfer -
-> requiring stiffer springs and or roll bars....

 Uh, no.  Lowering the RC decreases transfer.  However, it increases the
roll couple, which is what causes the increased body roll and the
requirement for more roll stiffness.


->  Also installing a Panhard bar
-> while keeping the upper mounts intacked will have two roll centers on
-> the car - the one due to the Panhard and the one due to the 4 links.

 Like they said in 'Highlander', there can be only one!  In a
confrontation between eight 30-year-old mush bushings and two new rod
ends, the bushings are gonna lose.  The roll center will be where the
Panhard puts it.  The Chevelle arms are also quite long and flexible.
With new bushings and the TRW boxed arms, you'd have to see if you got
any bind.  The Chevelle 4-link isn't like the Fox 4-link.


-> With rubber
-> in the right places it'll work but the real solution is to ditch the
-> upper links and install a torque arm.

 I completely agree.  In my opinion, the torque arm and Panhard (or
Watts) is *the* method to locate a live axle.  Since Frank has a T700,
he can even get a tailshaft extension with the proper bracket to hold
the front of the torque arm.  However, there's a lot of fabrication and
general labor involved.  The Panhard alone will help him *now*, for
cheap, and will still be useable if he goes to a torque arm later.


-> Panhards are normall straight and should be mounted level with  the
-> ground.

 In general, it should be level, and as low as you think you can get
away with.  The body side bracket on my Capri just barely clears as I
back out of the yard, through the gutter, and into the street.
                                                                                                                              

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:27:09 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 3785


>[ I do not have much time right now -- have to catch a plane.  But 
>I'll give an example.  Turn hard right.  Upper arms are so flexable as 
>to not be there.  The lower arms have soft bushings.  Left side 
>compresses, moves toward front; rear side stretches, moves rearward.  
>This makes the rear axel assembly point right a small bit and adds 
>to the existing right turning of the front wheels.  Just one more
>thing to think about.  This situation is impossible with new, 
>hard bushings.  My busings are 30 years old with 198,000 miles on
>them.  --FEP ]

This wouldn't cause oversteer but understeer.

The phenominum is called roll steer - and if its happening as you describe - is 
a benefit to high speed control.  Imaging the car coming out of a turn WOT as 
the car is recovering from the turn you are unwinding the steering and hoping 
the back end doesn't come around.  This steering action helps keep the tail in 
place (or rather is promots understeer).

To get this effect you normally must run the lower control arm parralel to the 
ground - or even slightly lower at the front.  During a turn the swing of the 
control arm shortens the distance on the outside corner and slightly lengthens 
the inside corner.

If your picking up the inside front tire and still oversteering - you have more 
problems - you will have to find a way to get more traction out of the back 
suspension.  You might also want to decrease the front traction - maybe a 
little less camber and more toe in ( less toe in or toe out makes the car less 
stable at higher speeds but promotes turn in which can sometimes through the 
back out).

I looked through the Global West catalog and couldn't find any "trick" pieces 
for the GM A-body's rear axle.  They have lower control arms with Del-A_lum 
bushings on one end and spherical on the other.  This is probably a good start.

You might also want to look at springs - springs and shocks are used to do the 
initial tuning and the fine tune it with sway bars.  If you know your front to 
rear weight distribution you should be able to get into the ball park on 
wheel rates.  With the stock suspension the rear roll center would be 
significantly higher than the front.  Depending on you front springs, the front 
roll center would be an inch or two off the ground.  In the rear it is about 
the middle of the axle - or about 13" off the ground.

To change the rear roll center you will need to relocated the upper control 
arms - or remove them entirely.  A Panhard bars roll center is on the panhard 
bar - down the centerline of the car.  You want this bar parralel to the ground 
and as low as possible - perhaps in line with the lower shock mount...

With a Panhard bar you can ditch the dual upper A-arms (in fact you should) - 
perhaps you can make a single upper control arm - mount it on the old upper A-
arm mounts (somehow).  The other end would attach in the middle of car.  
Adjusting the chasis mount point would allow you to adjust the anti-squat.

[  There are plenty of problems to sort out still.  My main one is
that I have more torque and more traction than I have ever dealt with
in the past.  But not the right balance.  The torque is fun -- last
week I actually did my first 4 gear burnout.  I ran it right to the
rev limiter in first,second,third, and then spun into 4th.  The fact
that I can pick up a wheel while turning still amazes me.  The
combination of the two is, for me, very hard to tune.  The mushy
bushings and soft, wide stock seats make it that much harder.

Alas, that car is 3000 miles away from this hotel room and will be
for a fair while.  Keep those thoughts coming and I'll keep saving
my pennies.  I'll likely go for the GW arms and look at a F-body 
torque arm when I get back.  --FEP ]

Dirk


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:27:10 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 
Content-Length: 2072

-> lifting one tire.  Anybody with real experience in this area?

> You can combat that problem by lowering the rear roll center with a
>Watts link or Panhard rod.  The Panhard will let you get it lower than
>the Watts.

> Lowering the rear roll center will reduce weight transfer to the outer
>tire, plus it will reduce the built-in roll steer from the roll axis
>inclination.  And if you think the car turns in good now, you ain't seen
>*nothin* until you add the Panhard!

  Lowering the rear roll center will increase load transfer to the out side
tire as the force about the center of gravity has a longer momment arm to act
upon the roll axis.  In order keep the benefits of low roll center you must
cancel the increased load or drop the center of gravity height.  I have also
seen Watts setups that are mounted just as low as any Panhard you can imagine
so, I don't agree that the Panhard is going to inherently obtain a lower roll
center. I believe it is more an issue of what the application calls for in
terms of space and control.

[ Some truth here ( as I understand it).  This subject is fairly well
beat out in _Stock Car Chassis Technology_.  Lowering the roll center
is always good, but diminishes in utility as the roll center gets away
from he center of gravity height.  As my car is driven on the street,
and will always be driven on the street, I cannot do too much about
center of gravity height.  I need to be able to put in 4 passengers,
20 gallons of gas, a cooler, spare tire, blankets, grill, charcoal
and go to the beach ( like last Thursday night ), and still clear the
speed bumps.  The car is alredy low due to the tires and spindles.
I can loose a bit more with new, hard short body bushings.  After
that I'll need to loose the interior and springs, or go to glass
bumpers, hood and trunk.  Finally, I do not want different sized
wheels on the front and back.  

My list of requirements is somewhat at odds with a real corner carver,
but I must keep real drivability in mind.  --FEP ]

Preston Marshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.ORG
                   

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 24 00:27:23 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Gasket sealant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 650


>In message <9501182058.AA09807@server.eng.dsea.com>  writes:
>> 
>> >   Here is the bitter part. Nearly every mating surface where two parts
>> >meet leaks oil. No- not badly but just enough to irritate the shit out
>> >of me. I used Edelbrocks "Gasgacinch" gasket sealant and I have to say
>> >it failed miserably.
>
>The best RTV I have used is the GM brand.  It is expensive, $20, and comes in a 
>large calking gun tube.
>
>I was looking for some RTV to use on the intake manifold of a corvette.  I 
>called the various Co's that make RTV and they all said to use the GM stuff.

So this stuff is impervious to gasoline?  Can you verify?

Dirk


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:08:40 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Gasket sealant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Robert Gallant"  
Content-Length: 881

In message <9501240516.AA12759@server.eng.dsea.com>  writes:

> >The best RTV I have used is the GM brand.  It is expensive, $20, and comes 
> in a 
> >large calking gun tube.
> >
> >I was looking for some RTV to use on the intake manifold of a corvette.  I 
> >called the various Co's that make RTV and they all said to use the GM stuff.
> 
> So this stuff is impervious to gasoline?  Can you verify?

Don't know that, but the engine does not use seals at the front and
back of the intake manifold.  Just a big bead of this silicon.  I've
also used it on the oil pan with no leaks.

I was recently told that the Mazda RTV is also good stuff.

Anyone know where the Permatex Aviation RTV can be found.
[ I'd guess that it can be gotten from AS&S in Fullerton, CA.
The catlog is not handy to me.  Somebody else may have one 
around... --FEP ]

Later

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:08:42 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Gasket sealant
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: met@pine.cse.nau.edu (MTN-KAT)
Content-Length: 566

I like the Gore-Tex gasket material, its thick enough to act as a
filler and is impervious to most everything, including alky! Perfect
for manifolds, front and rear anyways. It takes torque quite well, hard
to squish it out under pressure.

****************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@pine.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7, 550+Hp/474FE, Tri-Power, CR-4spd, and Nitrous. 
1967 3/4 Ton 400Hp/410FE 

Ain't no replacement for displacement!
****************************************************************

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:09:07 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 
Content-Length: 1900

From:	IN%"hotrod@dsea.com" 23-JAN-1995 23:32:38.64
To:	IN%"Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com"
CC:	
Subj:	RE: Chevelle notes, etc.

Return-path: 
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Date: Monday, Jan 23 1995 21:16:11
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
Subject: RE: Chevelle notes, etc.
Apparently-to: Hotrod_users@netcom.com
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Reply-to: hotrod@dsea.com
Message-id: <9501240516.AA12730@server.eng.dsea.com>
Content-transfer-encoding: 7BIT
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Posted-Date: Monday, Jan 23 1995 21:16:11
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
Approved: frank@dsea.com
X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)


-> Actually lower the roll center will increase the weight transfer -
-> requiring stiffer springs and or roll bars....

> Uh, no.  Lowering the RC decreases transfer.  However, it increases the
>roll couple, which is what causes the increased body roll and the
>requirement for more roll stiffness.

Nope.  Lowering the roll center increases roll couple, roll rate, roll angle 
and load transfer.  It has the same effect as decreasing roll stiffness, 
but is very desirable for inherent stability for geometry and reduced or 
eliminated jacking effects, as well as reduced scrub radius.


Preston Marshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.ORG


                                                                                                                              

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:08:53 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: 65 'Velle rear set up
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Content-Length: 255

Frank, heres what I did to improve my 65 El Camino. I used boxed lower
control arms w/ poly bushings, and a sway bar from a Z-16. Believe it or
not a few years ago both of these were avail from the factory. It helped
and was relatively dirt cheap.

Frank

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:09:23 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #95-3*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 11251

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now beginning its 4th and final year of weekly publication, TVE is a 
compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, 
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special 
thanks to Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many 
regional sports networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your 
local listings before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

This Week In Motor Sports             01/27    5:30-6:00PM      MSC
This Week In Motor Sports             01/27    6:00-6:30PM      SUN
SpeedWeek                             01/28    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
This Week In Motor Sports             01/28    2:30-3:00AM      WGN
Monster Trucks                        01/28    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
MotorWeek                             01/28    4:35-5:05AM      WJZ
Wheel Power                           01/28    5:00AM           NESN
SpeedWeek                             01/28    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             01/28    7:00-7:30AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/28    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Sports Cavalcade ('94 NASCAR SW Tour) 01/28    9:00-10:25AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             01/28    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/28    10:25-10:30AM    TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/28    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
NASCAR Today                          01/28    11:00-11:30AM    ESPN
Driver's Seat                         01/28    12:30PM      CBCE,CBCM
MotorWeek                             01/28    12:30-1:00PM     WUSA
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/28    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/28    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/28    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Driver's Seat                         01/28    3:00PM           CBCW
World Of Speed & Beauty               01/28    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek (Sentra & Protege)          01/28    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
MotoWorld II                          01/28   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        01/29    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic (paint finish care)01/29    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Bernstein & Force01/29    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/29    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/29    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/29   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Bernstein & Force01/29    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/29    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/29    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Sports Cavalcade (Detroit GP)         01/29    4:00-5:25PM      TNN
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    01/29    4:30-5:30PM      SUN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/29    5:25-5:30PM      TNN
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/29    5:30-6:30PM      SUN
Shadetree Mechanic (paint finish care)01/29    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
RaceLine                              01/29    6:00-6:30PM      HTS
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/29    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/29    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/29    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 01/29    7:30-9:00PM      PRTK
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/29    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/29   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
TNN Motorsports Moment                01/30    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
Sports Cavalcade (drag racing hilights01/30    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                01/30    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
MotorWeek                             01/30    2:30-3:00AM      WGN
ANTIQUE RACING, PALM SPRINGS (T)      01/30    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
NASCAR Year In Review                 01/30    3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/30    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        01/30    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             01/30    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
SODA OFF-ROAD SERIES, LUXEMBURG (T)   01/30    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        01/31    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Petersen Automotive Museum            01/31    7:00-8:00PM      SUN
The Power & The Glory (20's & 30's)   02/01    12:30-1:00PM     HIST
The Power & The Glory (20's & 30's)   02/01    5:30-6:00PM      HIST
This Week In Motor Sports             02/01    6:00-6:30PM      SCNY
SpeedWeek                             02/02    12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
Monster Trucks                        02/02    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Driving Force                         02/02    4:00-6:00PM      ESPN2
On Pit Road                           02/02    5:00-5:30PM      MSC
Wheel Power                           02/02    6:00-6:30PM      NESN
On Pit Road                           02/02    6:30-7:00PM      NESN
Monster Trucks                        02/03    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
This Week In Motor Sports             02/03    5:30-6:00PM      MSC
This Week In Motor Sports             02/03    6:00-6:30PM      SUN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HR (?)               02/03    10:30-11:30PM  HTS,SPTS
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HR (?)               02/03   11:00PM-12:00AM   MSC
WERA, ATLANTA (T)                     02/04    12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
SpeedWeek                             02/04    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HR (?)               02/04    12:30-1:30AM     HSE
NASCAR: A profile of Harry Gant       02/04    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
NASCAR: A profile of Ironhead         02/04    1:30-2:30AM      ESPN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HR (?)               02/04    2:00-3:00AM   PRTK,SCP
Monster Trucks                        02/04    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             02/04    5:30-6:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NASCAR SOUTHWEST, PHOENIX (L)         02/05    4:00-5:00PM      TNN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCK, PHOENIX (L)        02/05    5:00-6:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/05    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
Thunder In The Distance               02/05    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30-8:30PM      TNN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HR (T)               02/11    9:30-11:00PM     ESPN
NASCAR, BUSCH CLASH (?)               02/12    tba              tba
IROC #1, DAYTONA                      02/15 (live coverage is unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)  :-)   :-)   02/19    12:15PM          CBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, PHOENIX (T)          02/24    8:30PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, THE ROCK (L)                02/25    1:00PM           TNN
WINSTON CUP, THE ROCK (L)             02/26    12:00PM          TNN
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/05    1:15PM           TBS
INDYCAR, MIAMI (L)                    03/05    tba              ABC [1]
FORMULA 1, ARGENTINA (?)              03/12    tba              tba [1]
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/12    1:00PM           ABC
NHRA, NATIONALS, HOUSTON (T)          03/14    8:00PM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HR (L)               03/18    10:30-11:30AM    ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HR (L)               03/18    1:30-3:00PM      ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HR (L)               03/18    10:00-11:00PM    ESPN
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (L) 03/19    5:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, OZ (?)                       03/19    tba              ABC [1]
IROC #2, DARLINGTON                   03/25 (live coverage is unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (?)                 03/26    tba              tba [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/26    1:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              04/02    1:10PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, PHOENIX (L)                  04/02    tba              ABC [1]

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races.  The races are 
usually broadcast on a tape-delayed basis following the local late news 
at approx. 11:37PM ET on the evening following the race.  I understand 
that it is not uncommon for CBC to delay the broadcast as much as an 
hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so please use extra caution if you plan 
to tape the race.  If you have access to it, and your French isn't too 
rusty, you may also want to check out RDS.  RDS broadcasts every F1 race 
and most IndyCar races, and their F1 coverage usually also includes a 30 
minute prerace show.  RDS and TSN generally use the ESPN feed, while CBC 
generally uses the BBC feed.  The exception to these rules is the 
Canadian Grand Prix.  Only CBC and SRC have the rights to the Canadian 
GP.  Thanks to Pierre Mailhot and Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in 
Canada.

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
DIS      The Disney Channel
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HIST     The History Channel
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"
WRC      Washington, DC
WTTG     Washington, DC
WUSA     Washington, DC
-------

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:10:01 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes, etc.
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 
Content-Length: 240

>AS my car is driven on the street, and will always be driven on the street,
>I cannot do too much about the center of gravity height.

You can still be on the up and up by increasing the roll stiffness.

Preston Marshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.ORG

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Jan 27 14:10:22 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Content-Length: 3312

No Subject Line
Reply-to: hotrod@dsea.com
Posted-Date: Friday, Jan 27 1995 10:57:32
X-archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
Approved: frank@dsea.com
X-From: hotrod (Hotrod List)


This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list, hotrod@dsea.com.  

------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dsea.com is chartered to provide a forum for
people interested in high performance vehicles to exchange ideas and
discuss topics of current interest. This list is chartered as broadly
as possible consistent with  noise supression.  I believe it to be more
constructive to list unacceptable topics and behavior rather than
trying to ennumerate permissible behavior.

Unacceptable topics:  

*   Discussions about stock street cars.
*   Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*   Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*   Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*   Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
      to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*   Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the
performance of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages,
tastefully done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dsea.com.
Please be sure to include a valid address, one without exclamation
marks, in your request.

To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dsea.com.

To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dsea.com.  Please include  a
meaningful subject line.  Inquiries, and other administrivia should be
addressed to frank@dsea.com.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is 
  a) if that person asks or
  b) if mail to an address bounces a lot.  

Due to the way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of
bounced messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I
must remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a short
time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a day of
cushion.  Simply send a new subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

There is an archive service, and a general file retreival service
available.  If your message has a subject line that begins 
"hotrod ftpmail", the message is consumed by limited, but prooven,
piece of software that can fetch files.  Try "hotrod ftpmail help"
for details.

The archives I currently have consist of old articles put in a digest
format.  Articles are grouped by month.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------




From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 30 20:12:51 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Building a flow bench
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 1257


This really isn't a FORD-specific topic, so I've moved it
over to the hotrod list, so followups should go there.

I'll summerize for the hotrod list: 
I recently finished building a flow-bench using the articles
in Oct & Sept'93 issues of Popular Hot Rodding as a guide.
Using two modified 7.5 amp electric leaf-blowers, and an old 5.0 amp
vacuum cleaner, I can pull 5" of H20 on a full-open 460 intake port.
It would be much better to double it to 10", even better to 20".

> Dave.Williams:
>  I have a stack of angle iron, a 1600 Ford motor, and a 6-71
> supercharger scattered around the shop.  Someday that'll be my vacuum
> source for a bench.

I've considered using a 2.2L turbocharger from the junkyard (cheap at $30),
and either trying to spin it manually, or hooking it up to a car's exhaust.
The 6-71 sounds like a good way to go, what about running it off a 5hp lawn mower
engine?  I've got a 10amp electric motor
from a washing machine that'll I thought I might try to use.

My neighbor suggested simply hooking a hose to the carb intake on my car.
The other idea was running a V8 on 4 or 6 cylinders, and using the other
cylinders as the vacuum sources.

Any other low-budget ideas?

-Kelly Murray    kem@prl.ufl.edu    Gainesville, Florida



From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 30 20:13:26 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Coolant
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X-From: "Hewson, Dave" 
Content-Length: 1885


[With all this talk about coolant systems, I was wondering if
[anyone one this list has tried using propylene glycol based
[antifreeze?
[
[I hear that it's expensive, but has some interesting features:
["zero psi" -- you replace your radiator cap with a 1 psi unit,
[just to allow for expansion; low pressure extends the life of
[hoses and seals; long life; non-poisonous; no water in the
[system, no corrosion?
[
[A good but expensive solution? or snake oil?
[
[DaveH

I finally had a chance to methodically go through my old magazines and 
answer my own question; the article that started me on this appeared in the 
Feb '91 issue of Kit Car Illustrated, page 36, titled "Cooling System 
Magic". As someone else may find this helpful, I'm passing the info along:

Excerpts from the article:

 -Meca All-season's coolant; available from MECA (203 364 5130) or Custom 
Cars by Robbie (213 860 5092);
 -Boils at 370 degrees F; freezes at -70F;
 -"Lets your engine run hotter and more efficiently"
 -No pressure, extending the life of hoses and seals; less chance of being 
scalded when removing cap when hot;
 -no water, no corrosion;
 -100,000 mile lifetime;
 -"better thermal dynamics" than conventional coolant;
 -5 gallon kit and "Stage I conversion kit" US$180; zero PSI cap, clamps, 
spare hose...

They mention that Meca recommends that the car runs at 240 to 260 degrees, 
"so you may want to install a new temperature gauge which runs up to 280";

A confusing statement (to me) is the comment that "this stuff reacts to 
moisture in the air exactly like silicone-based brake fluid"; I thought 
conventional brake fluid had this problem, and the silicone based fluid 
didn't. Comments?

I'm planning on going this route, but I don't think I'll be at the engine 
installation step for quite a while, so I'm not going to pursue it further 
until I'm closer to needing it.

DaveH

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 30 20:13:23 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: TH400 re-gearing article
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X-From: gregg@fmrco.com (Gregg Pitkin)
Content-Length: 308


This past year I saw an article in one of the trade mags, (I think Popular
Hot Rodding), about re-gearing a TH400.  I thought I had bought the mag,  
but I have torn apart everyplace I can think of twice and I still can't find
it.  Anybody remember seeing the article?  Thanks

Gregg Pitkin
gregg@fmrco.com

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Jan 30 20:13:49 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Filter pore sizes
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 426

In my quest against dirt in my fuel system I have become very
interested in gasoline filters.  I have seen specs that range
from 40 microns to 10 microns in terms of pore size.

What I would like to know is what are the pore sizes of popular
filters such as the Fram series, and what are the pressure drops
associated with various flow rates.  Can anybody point me to
this information?  Thanks.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 31 11:45:00 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Diffs
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
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Having recently spoken with a few MA folks running in the 11s and 12s on 
stock GM rear ends, I have decided to keep my 10 bolt for a while.  But,
I'd like to go for a good "posi" unit.  

I am told that the early GMs came with an 8.2" ( eight point two inch ) and
that I have one.  Other than pulling the pan is there any way to tell?
Regardless, the Summit catalog tells me that Auburn and Moroso do not 
make a posi unit for this rear end.  So I called my local differential
place, Unitrax in Anaheim, and asked about a solution.  They suggested
that I wait about a month because Lock Right will becoming out with a
mechanical locking device for this rear end.

I'v never heard of Lock Right ( if that is their name ).  Has anybody got
any experience with a sort of Detroit Locker for GM cars from such a 
company?  I'd love to know before I spend a dime.  

Thanks for any info.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 31 11:45:15 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: RE: Building a flow bench
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
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>I'll summerize for the hotrod list: 
>I recently finished building a flow-bench using the articles
>in Oct & Sept'93 issues of Popular Hot Rodding as a guide.
>Using two modified 7.5 amp electric leaf-blowers, and an old 5.0 amp
>vacuum cleaner, I can pull 5" of H20 on a full-open 460 intake port.
>It would be much better to double it to 10", even better to 20".

If its an efficiency problem - try feeding the ouput of one pump into
the other


From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 31 11:46:00 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Re: TH400 re-gearing article
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
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Gregg Pitkin writes:

>This past year I saw an article in one of the trade mags, (I think Popular
>Hot Rodding), about re-gearing a TH400.  I thought I had bought the mag,  
>but I have torn apart everyplace I can think of twice and I still can't find
>it.  Anybody remember seeing the article?  Thanks

I didn't see the article, but one fellow you can try is John Kilgore
of Kilgore Transmissions in Burbank, California.  818-843-7180.  He
has built lots of gear sets for T400s and others, as well.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

From hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Jan 31 11:49:42 1995
From: hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@server.eng.dsea.com
Subject: Sad but true
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
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