From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  1 18:41:24 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle notes
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X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 199

 If you're confident enough in your MIG welding, you can tack a piece
of welding rod to the dent's deepest point, use the rod to pull the
dent, and then grind off the stub with a handheld grinder. 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  1 18:55:44 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 349

 I just recently learned by word-of-mouth that Miller has a new
 TIG welder on the market.  At about $1000 it sounds like a honey.
 Supposedly, it has current adjustable way down so that you can do
 the little bitty stuff like brackets and not have trouble.  If
 anyone learns more about this machine, please post.

 Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  1 19:14:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: Bodyman377@aol.com
Content-Length: 444

 I've used Ac/dc , MiG & TIG welders. Looking to buy a Tig Unite myself. The
$1000.00 price for a TIG unite is good if the saler will warrenty it. A Tig
will weld all types of metals like chrome moly which is used in race car
chasse, You also can buy a MIG unite to add on later. A Tig Unite is made up
of aAC/DC Welder & the Tig unite it's self. 
                                   Good luck 
                                  Bodyman377@Aol


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  1 19:14:38 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 539

 I bet your neighbor wants you to get the TIG because that's the
only one he'd need to borrow. 

 MIG is unbeatable for big jobs, thin metal/long bead work. You
can dial in pentration by choice of shielding gas and heat/speed.
Even a casual user can get tolerably good in a short time. For
applications requiring impressive metallurgical characteristics,
you'll need to be doing some searching to get exotic feed wire.
If anybody knows a place that sells 2-lb rolls of hard surface
wire or nonferrous .025/.030/.035 wire, don't be shy.




From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  1 19:17:39 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: JQL@ix.netcom.com (John Lee)
Content-Length: 1012

Hi,
Well if I was your neighbor without the TIG, I would try my best to 
steer you to buy the TIG (so I can borrow it ocassionally=) ).

But personally, I would go for the TIG (and borrow your neighbors' 
MIG/STICK).  I've been TIGing for about 3 weeks (actually about 6 class 
days @ 3 hr/class) and love it!!! The welds come out clean, its a quiet 
process compared to MIG/Stick.  It is similar to oxy-feul welding in 
that you can see the 'puddle' clearly thereby having more control of the 
weld.  The hard part of TIG (for me) would be setting the machine 
correctly.  It is definitly a slower process than Mig but you're not on 
a production line!

I've tried MIGing b4... its darn quick but produces lots of noise, 
splatter (got tingling sensations on top of my head due to flying 
sparks)... 

I think the cheapest new TIG machine is made by DAYTONA something... 
Although I heard used machines with much more features/capability can be 
had for a little less than that from auctions/classifys

-John



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  1 19:25:33 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
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X-From: Steve=Ravet%Prj=Eng%PCPD=Hou@bangate.compaq.com
Content-Length: 1631

hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List) Wrote:

| If its available you might try the Diacom software and perhaps see
| what is going on.  --FEP ]

I'm trying to write my own Diacom-like software to run on a PC laptop.  I'm 
having a hard time getting any information out of Delco (liability, blah blah 
blah, non-disclosure, blah blah blah).  Anyone out there know anything about 
the GM ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link)?  One of the pins on the connector 
is labelled "serial data," which I assume means it could be connected to a 
computer's serial port.  I've had no luck trying to get anything out of it.  
Another problem is that it is TTL, not RS-232, but even if I build a driver I 
still need to know the baud rate, etc.

[ I have a block of info on this area.  It is around someplace.  The
short list is that you cannot use the RS232 ports, but must use the 
parallel port.  If memory serves me, the data rate is 8192 baud.  It 
certainly is an unlikely number, similar to the above.   At least one
past user of this list has a useful piece of software to decode some
of the data stream.  Perhaps I should take the time to crush the 1993
list of postings into a set of coherent archives; I am nearly certain
that the info you want is there. --FEP  ]

Anyway, if anyone out there has any information about this thing, I'd 
appreciate the info.

Oh yeah, for those who don't know, the info available is stuff like rpm, temp, 
voltage, fuel injector duty cycle, throttle position, everything the ECM looks 
at or calculates.  Diacom is commercial software that runs on a PC that 
decodes the info and displays it.

thanks
--steve


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 14:56:15 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: dented Oil pan
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 940

Should have read all the post before I posted - I apologize for the wasted band 

width.

I didn't realize it was a corvette!

[ Did I say it was a Corvette?  It is a 64 Chevelle that IS going to
handle like a Corvette.  --FEP ]

On the vette the K-frame is so far forward that you should be able to remove 
the pan easily.  On my '75 I though the front harmonic balancer was just barely 
above the K-frame.  Going to have to look again.

Another thing you may be able to do - remove the timing chain cover - retighten 
the oil pan bolts and try getting a bar or something in from the front.  Seems 
those paint-less dent repair kits would be perfect.

One last think - please post how you feel about the del-alum bushings.  The 
rubber on the '75 is just about gone and it look like either Del-a-lum or Herb 
Adam's Nyliners.  What about the rear suspension?  What are you doing with the 
strut rods?  What about the trailing arms?

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 17:21:02 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com (Brian Kelley)
Content-Length: 3765


>Choices:
>
>Arc Welder - an AC/DC machine - pro's: cheap, and can do alot (with
>specialty welding rods) - con's: alot of heat, can't do thin stuff,
>might warp the big stuff - also pretty much un-accepted by NHRA for
>roll cages / bars.  Probably nice to have in any case.

For welding heavy steel, _nothing_ beats the bang for the buck you get from
a stick welder.  You should be able to find a used unit suitable for
trailer work very cheap.  You have to spend some pretty serious money to
get a MIG or TIG unit with comparable penetration.

>Mig Welder (gas) - pro's: can weld just about anything - up to the
>thickest steel I'll use - con's: expensive, also concern about limited
>penetration.

Not correct!  You can't weld just about anything with a MIG.  Welding
aluminum, for instance, can be very difficult.  Switching the wire,
while not a *big* deal, is definitely a pain compared to a TIG.  The
aluminum wire is very soft and does not feed well with a "push" feed
system.  You can buy a pull feed torch, but if you're going to do
aluminum, get a TIG.

>Tig Welder - pro's: better penetration than Mig - con's: even more
>expensive ( although I have found two used ones for $1000), more
>difficult to use (I'll definitly take classes).

TIG welders are extremely versatile, but expensive and generally
rather large and very heavy.  However, to weld a wide variety of
materials you will need both a CO2 and Argon tank to control the gas
mixture.  For MIGing mild steel, you can get a pre-mix and only need
one tank.

A friend of mine who welds professionally uses hydrogren as a final shielding
gas.  As you weld, the hydrogen burns and consumes any oxygen.  He says
it helps.

>Also
>is a TIG practicle for welding in tight places?

Most definitely!  The TIG torch head is smaller than a MIG head, and
a wide variety of shapes and lengthes are available.  For some roll
cage work, TIG is the only way to get the necessary access.

>[ I have used a stick welder and a MIG welder.  The stick is fast but
>not too clean.  The MIG unit was a $5000 Miller with variable
>everything and good power.  For 1/4" mild steel plate it was like
>using a caulking gun -- incredibly fast and easy.

The big, high quality MIG welders are a joy to use.  A big unit like
that can fill a 1" gap in one pass.  There are definitely cases where
you would grab your MIG rather than your TIG, given a choice.

But if you're interested in doing anything other than mild steel, I 
would strongly lean towards the TIG.

>Do not forget that you will probably spend $1000 in welding
>accesories.  You will need a welding apron, gloves, helmet,
>respirator, clamps, a few jigs and perhaps some shoes.  You will need
>at least one good grinder and a pile of grinding wheels.   You will
>need plenty of filler, be it rods, wire, or whatever TIG uses.

$1000?  Hardly!  For my roll cage and chassis work, I bought a Daytona
Mig MIG welder.  With the tank, shield and a few spare parts, it was
$500 to my door.  I've put at least 20 lbs of wire through that welder.
A better shield will set you back around $25.  I assume you already
have wire brushes.  A Makita angle gringer will set you back $55.
A set of gloves $10..

At this point, I would really like to have a TIG.  But they aren't at
all portable.  My MIG welder is very portable and when I do get a TIG,
I'm sure I will continue to use it.

I really feel you can spend $500 + $100 misc and do some serious
work.  However, a small 110 volt unit like that isn't going to weld
thicker steel.  It will do 1/8" just fine.  Getting adequate penetration
in 3/16" is a definite concern and 1/4" is definitely questionable 
(but do-able).  With the thicker metals, pre-heating is mandatory.

  Brian

---
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 17:51:01 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Content-Length: 567

No Subject Line
Reply-to: hotrod@dsea.com
Posted-Date: Monday, Dec 05 1994 08:26:02
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Approved: frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Bill Dermond" 

     

Dave:

I've got a decent steel large journal 3.25" crank.  If your interested, I'll 
ship it COD; if you can use it, we'll arrive at a price.

BTW, I downloaded the Big List.  Wow.  Thanks for your hard work.

Bill 
bdermond@cc.atinc.com

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 18:00:50 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig (Miller's new one)
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 635

> I just recently learned by word-of-mouth that Miller has a new
> TIG welder on the market.  At about $1000 it sounds like a honey.
> Supposedly, it has current adjustable way down so that you can do
> the little bitty stuff like brackets and not have trouble.  If
> anyone learns more about this machine, please post.

Miller has an "ecno Tig" that doesn't seem to have water hook-up.  About the 
size of a small flux wire welder.  Don't know about the price but I have the 
brouchur at home.  I contacted Miller via a phone number in a recent Hot Rod 
magazine.  Of the smaller Migs they carry a 130, 175 and 250 and 250MP.

Dirk



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 18:06:41 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
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X-From: PghFish@aol.com
Content-Length: 175

I'm from Pittsburgh and thank god we got out of using that crap!Every once in
a while the good guys win!

                                              Happy in Pennsylvania


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 18:16:51 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: CR, gears, and 1980's fuel
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X-From: Randy Brown 
Content-Length: 786

Forwarded message:
> >From dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us  Tue Nov 29 06:04:01 1994
> 
>  The pitting in the cylinder walls is due to the engine being in storage
> since 1980; living in a swamp has drawbacks.  Grant was running open
> chamber heads, which dropped the CR down to about 12:1, and 4.56 gears
> with a four speed; you could do that with leaded premium in 1980.

I was running a 389 with 11:1, 4.11 gears with a Muncie 4-speed, on
leaded/leaded premium mix (with water injection) up until 1985 in
Oklahoma.  Thank god for that last gas station still selling real
premium (it was $1.50 back then and I thought that was bad!).  Every
once in a while I'd put in an entire tank of premium, man did that
engine love that (although a $30 fillup for 200 miles kinda hurt).

Randy



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 18:54:46 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Dented Oil pan
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 874

>If you don't want to do that, get one of those stick pullers used for bodywork.
>It spotwelds a stick onto the low part of the dent, then pulls on the stick
>until the dent is back flush.  Then you remove the stick (cut? break off?) and
>grind/file off the excess.  My only question is whether the sheet metal on
>your pan may be too thin and the weld will punch through - check the info on
>the puller.  (Considering how thin modern body panels are, this may not be a
>problem.)

I would think welding on the oil pan would be dangerous.  Do it right - pull 
the pan.  Besides if you screw up an put a hole in it - you'll have to take it 
off anyway...  If the motor has alot of miles on it and or is manual trans I 
would recommend replacing some of the bearings - specially the thrust bearing.

Dirk
[ The engine has about 2000 miles on it.  I am not too happy. --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 19:02:18 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
Content-Length: 984

I'm in the "I'm great with a stick and MIG, which I have and can afford, 
but a TIG would be nice" category, so my contribution will be from the 
practical point of view.
     
NHRA does NOT allow stick-welded anything; Chrome moly must be TIG welded, 
mild steel can be TIG or MIG welded.  MIG welding gets a bad rap because 
you can make beautiful beads with no penetration, but that doesn't mean 
it's a bad process; you just have to make sure that your skill level is 
adequate.  My local voc/tech school charged $60 for 16 weeks of MIG/TIG 
instruction; definitely worthwhile.
     
At any rate, my Super Street Nova is built with a MIG, except for those 
particular areas of concern that I farmed out, like suspension components. 
I have friends with TIG machines, so I do my fabrication and 
jigging/tacking myself, and have them do the finish welding.  A TIG would 
(WILL) be nice, but I found the MIG appropriate for 90% of my projects.

My $.02

bdermond@cc.atinc.com
     

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 19:15:20 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: The 327
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 1245


-> Same cost, more power - why spend money on a 327?

 The idea was to *not* spend any money - the 327 was supposed to be a
low mileage, fairly stout motor.  We were going to drop it into the
sprint car just to get out on the track while we were building something
else, so we opened it up to clean it and take a look at the innards.
Alas, the innards weren't in very good shape.  


-> BTW large or small journal 327?  Maybe grab a 283 crank and make it a
-> 302 -

 Small journal.  A 1963 block, with the thick walls.  I have this
idea...  the 283s would commonly go .125 over without trouble.  This
block has the same thickness.  .125 over would let me use a standard 400
small block piston.  I also have a line on a nice steel 350 crank,
unfortunately already turned .30/.30 and worn to boot.  I could get it
cut down to small journal standard size.  I also have a set of small
journal aluminum rods, 5.7 inch.  That would give me a 377, and let me
use up a bunch of odd parts I have laying around.  I have a buddy with
an old Impala SS who's drooling over the idea.  If I can get him to part
with a reasonably small amount of cash, he'll have a fairly nice little
correct-numbers-for-car "327."
                                    


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 19:38:46 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
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X-From: Steve=Ravet%Prj=Eng%PCPD=Hou@bangate.compaq.com
Content-Length: 1545

hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List) Wrote:
| hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List) Wrote:
| I'm trying to write my own Diacom-like software to run on a PC laptop.  I'm 
|having a hard time getting any information out of Delco (liability, blah blah 
| blah, non-disclosure, blah blah blah).  Anyone out there know 
| anything about 
| the GM ALDL (assembly line diagnostic link)?  One of the pins on 
| the connector 
| is labelled "serial data," which I assume means it could be 
| connected to a 
| computer's serial port.  I've had no luck trying to get anything 
| out of it.  
| Another problem is that it is TTL, not RS-232, but even if I 
| build a driver I 
| still need to know the baud rate, etc.
| 
| [ I have a block of info on this area.  It is around someplace.  The
| short list is that you cannot use the RS232 ports, but must use the 
| parallel port.  If memory serves me, the data rate is 8192 baud.  It 
| certainly is an unlikely number, similar to the above.   At least one
| past user of this list has a useful piece of software to decode some
| of the data stream.  Perhaps I should take the time to crush the 1993
| list of postings into a set of coherent archives; I am nearly certain
| that the info you want is there. --FEP  ]

I heard from someone else that 8192 is correct, which is a non-standard baud 
rate.  So it might need to be connected to the parallel port and a software 
UART written.  Anyway, the biggest missing piece is decoding the data once I 
have collected it.  If anyone has any clues, let's hear it.

--steve



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 19:50:53 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
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X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 573

ok, FEP suggests I try Diacom software. I ask, in ignorance, what is
Diacom software?
thanks.

[ All these questions when I am using telnet from a Duo 230 next to my
Chevelle!  DIACOM is a commeril package developed apparently with the
asistance of GM.  It displays all the info you want and need.  Comes
with a cable from PC parallel port to GM diagnostic port. About $300
if I remember.   If I ever get around to putting GM EFI on my
Chevelle, I will get the DIACOM stuff.  --FEP ]

Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 19:59:59 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
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X-From: ijames@codon.nih.gov (Carl F. Ijames)
Content-Length: 1649

Ten people have probably already sent this in, but Ken Mosher,
KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com, has developed a package for the 84-87 Buick Grand
Nationals and T-Types, and the 89 Turbo TAs.  This includes a cable adapter
with a small PC board to improve reliablility of reading the data stream
that connects the ALDL connector to the parallel port of a PC, and the
program TurboLink to monitor and display the data.  He sells it for about
$90.  The ECM in these cars sends a frame about once every 1.5 seconds, at
about 160 baud, using TTL levels.  The baud rate is not constant, since the
microcontroller just sends a bit whenever it has some spare time.  Newer GM
cars use about 8192 baud and about a 10x times faster frame rate.  I can't
remember what your car is, but Ken is adding other models as we speak (each
car uses its own layout of the data within a frame).  Email him for info.
Shameless plug:  I have the package and think it's great!

As far as losing mileage, on my 86 T-Type I drop from 22-24 mpg to 19-20
mpg, mostly highway driving, with oxygenated gas.  I use Amoco 93 octane,
which uses MTBE.  Some brands use ethanol, and fewer still use ETBE or
other things.  I believe (the usual fully informed net-drivel :-)) that
MTBE hurts the mileage less than ethanol but mainly I use Amoco because it
is the cheapest 93 octane around here.  If places are beginning to use
oxygenated gas year round, will the EPA start using it in their driving
cycles to rate new cars, and if so, what will the car manufacturers do when
their CAFE drops 10-20% and the fines roll in :-)?

Regards,
Carl Ijames     please reply to:  ijames@freenet.fsu.edu





From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 20:00:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: hotrods in Mexico
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X-From: Tom Carver 
Content-Length: 3182

We just got back from a vacation down at my wife's parent's house down in
Moyahua, Zacatecas, Mexico.  It's about two hours away from Guadalahara.  

It was pretty interesting to see all the old cars and trucks down there that
just keep rattling along forever.  The roads down there are pretty terrible. 
Most of the little towns are paved with cobblestones.  Most everything on the
road has cracked windshields and jack-hammered grilles because of all the
loose rocks flying around.  There's a whole lot of cars and trucks that look
just like they were used in the old "Road Warrior" movie with Mad Max.  They
get all kinds of pipes and re-bar and angle iron and stuff and weld it all
over the front end.  The old pickups have home-made roll-bars and cages to
keep the goats and pigs and stuff from bouncing out.

I saw an old late '50s style pickup called a "Fargo".  I'd never heard of a
"Fargo" before.  I saw tons of '60s and early '70s Mopars, tons of '40s, '50s
and '60s Chevy and Ford pickups, ancient "Dina" buses, hundreds of old VW bugs
and buses.

You have to give a lot of credit to the mechanics down there.  They keep all
those old cars running forever against all odds.  The gas is lousy quality,
the air's full of dust, the roads rattle everything to pieces, and a lot of
the parts are hard to come by.

In a town called Juchipila, I saw a '56 Bel Aire, a '63 Impala, a '70 Mach I,
and a '69 Dodge Charger just driving along through the cobblestone streets
with a family of kids and everything.  They were in amazingly good condition.
Most of the old trucks were obviously used hard, and most were pretty well
beat to hell -- but were still putting along fine.

I've come to the conclusion that the cars from the late '50s up to about '72
were some of the most durable cars ever made.  If you look at all the old cars
down there, there seems to be a big gap from about '73 up to the mid '80s. 
Everything in between seems to have gone extinct.  You can find a bunch of the
late '70s cars abandoned in ditches and river-beds all over the place down
there.

You can still buy VW bugs down there brand new.  It was funny to see a
billboard on the side of the road advertising the "nuevo '95 VW bugs".

Some of those "Road Warrior" type cars down there would be a blast to drive
around -- just to see the looks on people's faces.  There was one car, I think
it was a Roadrunner GTX or something from around '69, and it had a massive
cage made out of welded 1/2" re-bar in front and back.  It had headers,
straight pipes with no mufflers, a shattered rear window, a row of big-rig
style marker lights on the roof.  The back end was jacked up and equipped with
huge mud-bogger type truck tires.  The interior was old blankets over shredded
seats, a big "T" grip shifter, and cassette deck duck-taped to the dash pad.
To top it all off it was painted bright lemon yellow with white lightning
bolts on the sides and top.  It was sort of a cross between a sand-rail and
hot rod.  Pretty wild.

If those big, monstrous late '60s Mopars weren't so valuable and hard to find,
that would be fun to make and drive a Lowwwww-Budget Road Warrior like that --
just for kicks.

Tom


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 20:08:41 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: ChrisD1936@aol.com
Content-Length: 648

 I use a TIG set up that I made up myself. I bought a high frequency unit,
for $200 found in the local adds. This is hooked up to a small AC-DC buz-box.
You will need AC to weld aluminum. I made a cooling system using a old
refrigerator condenser and a small pump from McMasters. The torch, flow
meter, fittings ect.. you can pick up at a local welding supply.
 Gas Welding, TIG, and Stick, fill all my needs. If you are doing any kind of
production welding MIG is a must. I have been using this setup for over 10
years. Using TIG is just about the same as gas welding. It will take some
practice getting the gas, heat, and torch controls set.
  


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 22:43:21 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: 63 Galaxie For Sale 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Dave Tartaglia 
Content-Length: 553


1963 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback - 2 door hardtop.
289 v8, automatic,  89,000 original miles.
New interior, seat belts, shocks, battery, tires.
Asking $3400400400400 

call (610)269-2059 evenings. 

Car is located in Chester County, in southeastern Pennsylvania. 
Body is nice, mostly rust free but could use some cosmetics. 
Needs small repair on passenger rocker panel and rear lower quarter panel.
--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec  5 22:58:58 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Brake shoes for drag application 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: sdbartho@cca.rockwell.com
Content-Length: 653


I'm looking to upgrade the rear brake shoes on a '91 GMC Syclone.

The truck's sole purpose in life is drag racing,(little street use)
and I'm looking for recommendations for different compounds/brands
that will maximize the holding power at the line.

Right now, I struggle to hold 3-4 psi boost against the converter,
and even then it creeps away on me periodically. (red light = bad)

Should I be looking at organic compounds, or do I want a semi-met.?
Wear life is not a worry.

Any and all opinions/experiences would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dig
sdbartho@hwking.cca.rockwell.com
Syclone/Typhoon mailing list.
Feel the power of the wind.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec  6 23:09:52 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: hotrods in Mexico
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: David Wright 
Content-Length: 611

>We just got back from a vacation down at my wife's parent's house down in
>Moyahua, Zacatecas, Mexico.  It's about two hours away from Guadalahara.  
>
>I saw an old late '50s style pickup called a "Fargo".  I'd never heard of a
>"Fargo" before.  I saw tons of '60s and early '70s Mopars, tons of '40s, '50s

Fargo = export Dodge.  Don't know how many markets got the Fargo name and how
many retained Dodge.  (Canada at least got Fargo.)  There also apparently
was recently still a DeSoto export version.

David Wright (dwrig@tog-1s.hac.com)
65 Plymouth Belvedere II 4-door 273
74 Dodge Challenger Rallye 360


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec  6 23:16:49 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: rmwise@mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com (Bob_Wise)
Content-Length: 914

Let me put in a word about cheap MIG welders, too: duty cycle.  I had
a little unit and it drove me nuts at full output only being able to
weld a little bit at a time.  Another note: If you are welding your
own cage (as I am), bear in mind that your life may depend on good
welds.  A cheap MIG welder with potentially inadequate penetration is
just not worth it.  I would be concerned about any cheap welder that
you have to run at max output to get what you need.  I now have a
Lincoln SP250, and it is _wonderful_.

-Bob
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
|                   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| MCI               | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec  6 23:24:01 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: The 327
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Jim Davies 
Content-Length: 1367



On Mon, 5 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> -> BTW large or small journal 327?  Maybe grab a 283 crank and make it a
> -> 302 -
> 
>  Small journal.  A 1963 block, with the thick walls.  I have this
> idea...  the 283s would commonly go .125 over without trouble.  This
> block has the same thickness.  .125 over would let me use a standard 400
> small block piston.  I also have a line on a nice steel 350 crank,
> unfortunately already turned .30/.30 and worn to boot.  I could get it
> cut down to small journal standard size.  I also have a set of small
> journal aluminum rods, 5.7 inch.  That would give me a 377, and let me
> use up a bunch of odd parts I have laying around.  I have a buddy with
> an old Impala SS who's drooling over the idea.  If I can get him to part
> with a reasonably small amount of cash, he'll have a fairly nice little
> correct-numbers-for-car "327."
>                                     
Dont forget that there are two early small bearing 283/327 block 
castings...if you get the right block, even if its a 283, then a 327 
crank will clear and turn. If you get the wrong one, a 327 crank will hit 
the bottom of the bores. Yes, I know there are a million casting numbers, 
but this difference is basic and easily spotted if the pan is off. IMHO, 
lose the heavy big bearing crank, although the later rods are nice;>
Jim Davies



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec  6 23:35:54 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Jim Davies 
Content-Length: 357



On Mon, 5 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> I heard from someone else that 8192 is correct, which is a non-standard baud > rate.  So it might need to be connected to the parallel port and a software 
>
Off the top of my head it seems to me that 8192 baud is correct, but only 
for the early 80s stuff. Ill try and remember to check tomorrow.

Jim Davies
 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec  6 23:37:46 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 1735


-> For welding heavy steel, _nothing_ beats the bang for the buck you
-> get from a stick welder.  You should be able to find a used unit
-> suitable for trailer work very cheap.

 I have oxyacetylene and MIG; I'm planning on buying a stick welder.
For some stuff, like cast iron and oddball alloy rods, you can't get
anything but plain old stick welder rods.


-> Not correct!  You can't weld just about anything with a MIG.  Welding
-> aluminum, for instance, can be very difficult.  Switching the wire,
-> while not a *big* deal, is definitely a pain compared to a TIG.  The
-> aluminum wire is very soft and does not feed well with a "push" feed
-> system.  You can buy a pull feed torch, but if you're going to do

 I have a cheap Century 90/110 MIG welder with the argon bottle and
regulator.  It welds aluminum just fine - in fact, that's the first
welding I did with it, doing camcorder brackets for a friend's Corvette.
No problems feeding the wire or anything, but the arc was sort of
unstable.  I've read you're supposed to reverse the polarity for welding
aluminum, but the Century doesn't have that feature.


-> At this point, I would really like to have a TIG.  But they aren't at
-> all portable.  My MIG welder is very portable and when I do get a
-> TIG, I'm sure I will continue to use it.

 I've read that there are TIG conversions for stick welders.  It would
be nice to find how it's done, as I already have the bottles and
regulator for the MIG.  The MIG is quite portable - I bought a Radio
Flyer wagon for it.    Next step is to get some of those
Rubbermaid shop drawers and mount underneath to hold wire and stuff.
                                                                                     


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec  6 23:49:18 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Diacom was Help - MTBE Fuel woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: wedgemon@post.its.mcw.edu
Content-Length: 807

Here is the Diacom phone #.
From Rindo Technologies 312-736-6633. 
From p 182 of 11/94 ComputerLife,
Diacom              $299
Diacom Plus         $579
Diacom Plus upgrade $279
Any PC w/ atleast 256K of mem and DOS 2.1 
The Diacom offers a analysis of the everything inside our cars computer and
the Plus version adds the ability to do extended performance tuning on the
road. (from CL article)
 Cars covered '81-93 GM and '83-'92 Chrysler.  Ford product planned for
 near future. 
My question about this program is, is it worth it at almost $600!

-Bill
 William S Edgemond                    Medical College of Wisconsin
email: wedgemon@post.its.mcw.edu       Dept of Pharmacology
Phone: 414-456-8607                    8701 Watertown Plank Rd.
Fax: 414-266-8460                      Milwaukee, WI 53226



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 00:01:10 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: hotrods in Mexico
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Dave Tartaglia 
Content-Length: 594

> 
> I saw an old late '50s style pickup called a "Fargo".  I'd never heard of a
> "Fargo" before.  I saw tons of '60s and early '70s Mopars, tons of '40s, '50s
> (stuff deleted)
> Tom
> 
> 
Fargo was made by Plymouth in the thirties. The line was discontinued in
favor of the Dodge trucks. The Fargo name was however used on exported
Dodge trucks. I believe that the DeSoto name was also used in export
markets long after it expired here.

--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 00:07:59 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Brake shoes for drag application
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 251

sdbartho@hwking.cca.rockwell.com writes:

>Right now, I struggle to hold 3-4 psi boost against the converter,
>and even then it creeps away on me periodically. (red light = bad)


It sounds like you need a trans brake.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 00:18:02 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: The 327
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
Content-Length: 207

     I've got a .010/.010 large journal 327 crank that I thought I needed 
     once, but haven't ever found a use for.  If you're interested, drop me 
     a line at bdermond@cc.atinc.com.
     
     Bill


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 00:25:40 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Help - MTBE Fuel woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 712

> ok, FEP suggests I try Diacom software. I ask, in ignorance, what is
> Diacom software?
> thanks.
> 
> [ All these questions when I am using telnet from a Duo 230 next to my
> Chevelle!  DIACOM is a commeril package developed apparently with the
> asistance of GM.  It displays all the info you want and need.  Comes
> with a cable from PC parallel port to GM diagnostic port. About $300
> if I remember.   If I ever get around to putting GM EFI on my
> Chevelle, I will get the DIACOM stuff.  --FEP ]
> 

	Yes, but where can it be gotten from! Anyone have contact
	info on who makes it and their phone number?

	thanks.

Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 00:34:11 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: 63 Galaxie For Sale 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Dave Tartaglia 
Content-Length: 578

Replying to my own post:
> 
> 1963 Ford Galaxie 500 fastback - 2 door hardtop.
> Asking $3400400400400 
         ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^   I wish!   Should be $3400 B/O or trade.  

[ This is almost as good as the note I saw in Super Chevy today.  
Stock 425hp 409 62 Impalla does 147.92 mph in the quarter.  Perhaps 
they meant 14.792 seconds.... --FEP ]

> 
> call (610)269-2059 evenings. 
or     (610)647-4440 x 3069 days

Thanks

--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 00:53:17 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Global West dealings
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1860

Following my difficulties with GW and UPS in the past few weeks, I decided
to just take the 40 minute drive up to Ontario and settle things.  

Doug, the man in charge, took a look at the damaged goods and agreed
to repair them.  That was good.  He also took my 30 year old A arms
and told me to wait.  Well I sure waited, but I think it was worth it.

The arms were put in the press and had the old bushings and ball
joints removed.  Then they were bead blasted, primed and painted
twice!  After that Doug pressed in the new Delalum bushings, installed
the zerks and greased everything with synthetic grease.  Additionally,
I was given all new bolts plus various brake fittings.  Total cost 
was $zero. 

Overall, I am happy with the GW experience.  If only they were not 
quite so expensive....

Having seen the GW GM A-body lower control arms in the catalog a few
times I could never figure out exactly how they could possibly work.
The stock A-body lets the rear end move laterally because of its 
rubber busings.  GW deletes the rubber and uses Delalum on one
end and a HUGE spherical bearing on the other.  This produces a 
trapezoid (axle housing, left control arm, frame, right control arm)
with no links to stretch or compress.  Very simple, but this
arrangement eliminates axle location problems.  Perhaps in the
I'll get some in the spring.  Has anybody used them?

For you locals, GW is located near I15, between the Ontario Airport
and that huge stink --errr I mean beef-- farm.  It is easy to get to
from the 57, 60 and 15.  There is not much to see, just a combination
working garage and big metal shop.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec  7 16:51:53 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: GM crate engine and 700R4 conversion
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: jca@fibercom.fibercom.com (James C. Akers)
Content-Length: 3945

Hey Frank,
  Now that the list has settled down a little bit, how about a nice 
detailed summary about your Chevelle???  :-) (I know you have posted
bits and pieces, but did you ever compile a comprehensive guide???)
Tips and tricks, pitfalls; special pieces that you had to buy...  is
the GM crate engine worth it considering special parts; torque
converter selection and control, etc.  Did you have to modify the trans
tunnel for the 700???

[  Hmmm.  This is still a project in action, so I am not quite done.
But, I'll summarize to date.  In late Feb. 94 I bought a '64 that
started life as a 3 on the tree I6.  It was from the original owners
by a father-son team, and modified.  There was a 307 in there, with 
light rod knock, good TH350, and some other good parts.  In general, a
drivable, quick car.  The best part was the body.  Original CA car,
pretty straight, most of the molding and emblems original.  

   Original it was, but not for long.  I put it up on jack stands and
had at it.  I removed the tires, engine, radiator, moldings, bumpers
and gutted the interior.  Basically a frame and body was left.
  
   The interior was the single most complex issue.  I wire brushed,
scraped, and sanded it clean, then wiped it clean with thinner, primed
and painted it ( by brush ).   Then came came fixing the various
shifter holes, underlayment, carpet, door panels, seat foam and
covering, headliner, shifter, etc.  A lot of work, but I bought the kit from
OPGI and plugged along.  The car was not built for bucket seats, I had
to fix that.

   Under the hood, I bought a ZZ3 and a raced prepped T700R4 ( with 
stock '91 Corvette converter, and 4th gear auto-lock ).  There were a
million other things to buy and install: radiator, starter, alternator, horn,
fans, air cleaner, wires, lights, hoses, carburation.   This was
pretty much complete by June.

   I sent it out for a cheap paint job ( not that cheap ) and drove it
for a while.   Wicked, scary, etc.  Needed a few things.

   I then spent a few months doing little things, like backup lights,
dome lights, seat belts, carb. tuning, trunk painting, speedometer,
radio ( from a old Toyota, even )  and bought and mounted four new
wheels ( 5 spoke, chrome ) and tires ( BFG 15ZR60 ).  Still a lot of
work to do, but I can now do long, wicked burnouts and have enough
touque to pick up one front wheel at a time.  Then I spent a month
(!!!) replacing the exhaust with Hooker Super Comps and the mandrel-bent
2 1/2" dual Flowmaster system.  What a pain.  That is about September,
1994.  Add a few months driving.

   In late November I started another round: GW upper control arms,
12" brakes, useful guages, finned tranny pan with a drain plug, new
fan conrols ( those original ones keep failing ), etc.  Nearly the 
first thing I did was to crush the oil pan with the floor jack slip
up.  Then I found that to take out the A arms I had to remove ( at
least loosen ) the engine.   Grrrr.  That means removing the very
tight headers, and wicked starter.  Well, the A arms are out, and 
the old brakes are in the trunk.  This weekend I should be able to
put the new brakes on, and perhaps connect the sending units to the
guages -- I already went at the dash board with a 2" hole saw.

   I keep a half-sheet of paper on this terminal, it is the master
list of things left to do to thie car.  Crossed out are headers, 
exhaust, freon, tranny pan, battery switch, hood offsets, brakes, 
clock, guages.  Still left are emblems, Gear Vendors overdrive, new
rear end, roll bar, new weather stripping, AC, a trailer hitch, 
air management, alignment, EFI, and seats.  Target completion is summer
95 so I can run the Silver State Challenge at a "Tech Speed" of 149
mph, and perhaps win.   --FEP ]


Thanks!
jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 02:31:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Brake shoes for drag application  
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: sdbartho@cca.rockwell.com
Content-Length: 954


Bob Hale    writes:
>It sounds like you need a trans brake.

Do they make a trans brake for the 700R4? Aren't they kind of hard on
drivetrain parts?

The advantage of using the brakes to hold it is that you're not hitting
the front and rear end with a big snap of torque. Gives you somewhat of
a pre-load effect.

It's also true that I need a higher stall converter, which hopefully
will be going in a upcoming trans rebuild. Which brings me to another
topic...

The 700R4. Seems as though my valve body has decided to take a powder-
It won't shift into 4th by itself. Running through 'em manually works
fine though.

[ I cannot comment with specifics, but you could call Auto-Rite
818 988 2167 and ask. --FEP ]

What are the weak spots in the 700R4? What can I do while I'm in there to
help it hold up to repeated hard launches?

Thanks,

Dig
Syclone/Typhoon mailing list.
12.65@106.4 on the factory rubber, through the mufflers.



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 02:33:03 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: rmwise@mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com (Bob_Wise)
Content-Length: 1473

I posted an article indicating how happy I was with my Lincoln SP-250,
and got several questions about it and how much it cost, so I thought
I would just follow up to the list.


I bought it on a "Christmas Special" for $1700 plus change.  With
extra tips, an extra liner, and 70lbs of 0.035 wire it came out to
almost $1800 even.

It will weld up to 1" mild steel: I personally have welded up to 3/8"
with it.  It will hook up to 3-phase 440 if you have it.  For 1"
it will suck 60amps at 440V.

Its all menu driven: You enter wire type, wire diameter, gas type, and
material thickness, and it sets the wire feed speed and voltage.  It
has spot and stich modes, and 5 memory locations to store your own
settings. It also has a voltage detect and slow feed feature.  When
you press the trigger, the wire advances slowly, and as soon as
contact is detectected, it accelerates the wire to the set speed.  You
can adjust either volts or wire speed at the gun with a thumb toggle.

It is truly a quality unit, and highly recommend it to anyone considering
a good MIG unit.

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
|                   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| MCI               | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 02:36:29 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Global West dealings
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 
Content-Length: 328

>For you locals.......

Aren't they on Philidelphia in Ontario....over by Brad Urban's ??
Have I been asleep and missed them moving?

[ Yeah, they are on Philidelphia.  I consider Phil. close to the
airport, and to 15.  No, I was not being exact, but just giving a
general location.  --FEP ]

PrestonMarshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.ORG


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 02:42:33 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Robert Gallant"  
Content-Length: 886

In message <9412062227.AA20712@server.eng.dsea.com>  writes:

>  I have a cheap Century 90/110 MIG welder with the argon bottle and
> regulator.  It welds aluminum just fine - in fact, that's the first
> welding I did with it, doing camcorder brackets for a friend's Corvette.
> No problems feeding the wire or anything, but the arc was sort of
> unstable.  I've read you're supposed to reverse the polarity for welding
> aluminum, but the Century doesn't have that feature.

Were you using pure argon or the argon/co2 mix.  What dia wire were you using?

I am looking to weld (MIG) some thin 3/32" aluminum.  I had been told that I 
would need pure argon or helium and that the thin aluminum wire would be 
difficult to feed with a "push" feeder.

I don't really care how pretty the weld is and strength isn't too important (its
for an airbox).

Later

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 02:45:45 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Diacom was Help - MTBE Fuel woes
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X-From: PRESTON MARSHALL 
Content-Length: 672



>My question about this program is, is it worth it at almost $600!

That depends really.  How many cars do you use it for?  How many different 
models etc.  Are you really in need of the data?  I f all you are doing
is tuning a Buick GN, then I'd say Ken Mosher (of Buick List fame) has a much
better deal gopin...errr going on.  Myself, I end up working on a bunch
of different GM vehicles and in race applications you absolutely musty
hhave this data.  THis ($600) is nothing compared to the $1000 for an OTC
scanner/scan tool which can't show all the data and has limited uses.
I have found Diacom invaluable.

One man's opinion.

Preston Marshall
PMARSHALL@ACM.ORG


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 02:55:14 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Global West dealings
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Richard D McCardell 
Content-Length: 277

Global West --- is there other locations throughout the US ? ? ?

Specifically, in the North East . . . Philadelphia, PA area -- Maryland. 
Pennsylvania, or Delaware

[ As far as I know they are only on Philidelphia Avenue in Ontario,
California.  I may be mistaken.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 12:57:05 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: vette diff 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Mark Leavitt 
Content-Length: 803

I'm trying to locate a 3.08 posi differential for a 64 vette rear.  
Anything from 63 thru 79 will fit.  Prefer 67 or later though, they 
are stronger.  

Anything out there ?

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
      ____________________                      
    /        (____)        \                   MARK LEAVITT
  /\________________________/\                 1964 Roadster
/______________\_/_____________\
\  .------------------------.  /      Lockheed Idaho Technologies Co
|\  \______________________/  /|      Idaho National Engineering Labs
| (0________|_1964_|________0) |            
|     |--'            `--|     |            mol@pmafire.inel.gov
`-----'                  `-----'
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 13:04:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: The 327
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 551

-> Dont forget that there are two early small bearing 283/327 block
-> castings...if you get the right block, even if its a 283, then a 327

 Uh, the 283 is a 3.875 bore, the 327 is a 4.00 bore.  Completely
different castings.

-> lose the heavy big bearing crank, although the later rods are nice;>

 The Chevy has the next-smallest bearings of all the American V8s, and
bearings, or lack of, are a perennial trouble.  I'm solidly in the
bigger-is-better crowd, though it would be a trick getting a large
journal crank into a small journal block...


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:00:46 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TH-350 trans brake
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X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 1217

	I've asked before, with little feedback, but I'm trying
to pick a direction and need info. 
	What, if any, experience does anyone have with TH-350 
trans brakes. My car is heavy (3200 with me in it). I am going
to be putting a 406 into it (assuming I keep the car). Consensus is
use a powerglide for cars under about 2800. I use a th350 now, 
behind a wheezed out 319 ( short stroke 327). I dont want to gain
weight by going to a th400, and the weight makes me hesitate to 
go to a PG.

So, besides the high cost of a th350 brake, who has used the th350
brake. Where did you buy it from. Did the vendor do your trans too
or did you install it yourself. Did it hold the car still at the line?
What engine was in front of it? Did the trans hold up well? Did you 
redo the clutches at year end? Sooner? Why? Did it release consistently?

	The last time I asked these questions, only one person had
firsthand experience with a th350 brake. It was from TransKing in 
Texas. He had a case break, which he said they promptly fixed at their
cost. Other than that, he had gotten it so recently that he had no
real run time on it yet.



Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:18:45 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 1267


> I bought it on a "Christmas Special" for $1700 plus change.  With
> extra tips, an extra liner, and 70lbs of 0.035 wire it came out to
> almost $1800 even.

Eeek.  It's pretty tough to pay more for a welder than my entire car!
I suppose if your building a $20K hotrod, it might make more sense, 
or you're going to do work for other people too.  

I just got one of the Daytona MIG 110amp "Pocket MIG" units at $329.  
I could use the extra oomp of the 130amp unit I think, but the 110amp
unit worked great in it's first job of welding in 1/8" thick 1.5" square
tubing subframe connectors on my Mustang, and welding in rack-n-pinion
mounts on the front crossmember, as well as fabricating the steering rod
connector.  I had lots of trouble welding the upside-down pieces, though.

I don't see the 25% duty cycle is a problem unless you're doing 
production work.  

I had been looking for a good used one for a while, but as you can imagine, 
most people don't sell their tools, so I finally gave up and 
went with the new PocketMIG.  So far I'm happy, but I'm not a welding
expert by any stretch of imagination.

I will say I was always a bit uncomfortable using my ARC welder, but somehow,
I feel much more confident with the MIG unit.

My $.02

-Kelly Murray



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:35:37 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Franks 64 Chevelle
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: FBS3@OAS.PSU.EDU (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
Content-Length: 1747

Frank, I know what you are going thru on your Velle. I too have done a simular
car. I purchased a 65 El Camino in 74 for $125. I was 13 at the time. It was
a 250 hp 327 w/3 on the tree with no other options. It is now after removing
the body from the frame (all the bolts snapped) a 350 hp 327 w/a turbo 350
and ps/pb/air car. The factory air was a bitch to install. Cutting vent holes
in the steel dash was tough. I also have tilt wood wheel and SS gauges in it.

I replaced all the bushings in the front end and basically replaced every part
that could be removed. I still have an extra factory gauge set up if you
want it. How are the Hooker headers on removing the plugs. Mine are an all
day job.:-(

[ Actually, I spent about 15 minutes grinding a "peanut plug" socket
and the socket now clears all headers.  The plugs are quite easy on the
driver side because I have manual brakes -- plenty of room.  On the
passenger side I have mounted a MSD6AL on a heat sheild, a former 
backing plate from a DS scanner, and it gets in the way, but not too
badly.  It takes about the same time to change a tire as it does to
change the plugs.  I picked up the specialty socket trick from a
friend that has a 427 in a '69 Nova.  I think he has 2 1/4" headers,
or some other way large size.  He runs the quarter mile in the 10.x 
range, though --FEP ]

I also installed a 12 bolt rear from a 66 Chevelle SS and installed 3.73's.
I had to do some massaging to the floor to install the turbo 350, you musta
did a lot more for the 7004R.
BTW, I usta have a Z16, believe it or not. I sold it for big $$. I found it
in a garage in Philadelphia in 1978. It had 11k miles on it and I got it
for $2800!! The guy didn't have a clue what he had.

Good luck,  Frank


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:40:36 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Global West dealings (location in Maryland)
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 896


>Specifically, in the North East . . . Philadelphia, PA area -- Maryland. 
>Pennsylvania, or Delaware

Various speed shops carry Global West:

Rockville Speed and Custom - near the corner of Southlawn and Guide Drive in (
where else?) Rockville, MD.  According to Global West these guys are one of the 
biggest distributers on the east coast.  They mark up the price 10% over their 
cost...  Most of the stuff they have to order from Global West, so I don't know 
if it helps any.

BTW - this is one of those speed shops that not only sells but either installs 
or has someone install the parts for you (if you wish).  I've bought emergancy 
Holley parts and little stuff from them - and they did a price check on some 
Global West stuff (no matter how you slice it some of the stuff (anything with 
rod ends or spherical bearings) is very very expensive (it better be chrome 
moly....).

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:46:51 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 705

 Using Ar 75% / CO2 25% seems to give me problems w/ aluminum; black residue,
and I think the CO2 is decomposing and oxidizing the aluminum. Use straight
argon for that.

 I think the push problem is especially bad when you have an extended feed
cable. There will be some push distance on all MIG torches. Some makes 
have a special sleeve for aluminum use; mine has a simple coiled steel 
wire tunnel, but I didn't see any feed problems (10' cable, 0.030" Al wire).

[ The MIG machine I used had Teflon-lined feed cables.  In fact, it was
set up with a few different Teflon-lined cables for various wire
types.  As I noted, it was expensive, but very nice.  Too bad I moved
to the other coast.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:52:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 366


> I am looking to weld (MIG) some thin 3/32" aluminum.  I had been told that I 
> would need pure argon or helium and that the thin aluminum wire would be 
> difficult to feed with a "push" feeder.
>   I don't really care how pretty the weld is and strength isn't too important (its
> for an airbox).

Have you considered simply glueing it together ???  

-Kelly



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec  8 17:59:46 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Comp Cams 252 cam in an '84 Olds 98?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 956

O.K. I'm a little nervous.

My parant's Olds '98 (read land bardge) has very loud lifters - seems they 
don't believe in changing the oil that often.

In any case I decided to replace the lifters - and on the safe side - replace 
the cam and timing chain.

I have used the 252 cam in a Pontiac 301 ('78 Grand Prix)  I was wondering if 
anyone had any opinion about using the cam in such a heavy car as the '98.  The 
cam specs say 800rpm - 4500rpm.  It is ground on 106 lobe center (4 degrees 
advanced).  I have the option of installing it another 4 degrees advanced.

The cam should be mild enough not to effect anything except allowing it to 
breath a little higher rpm.  The car is all stock with high way gears (2.73?) 
and a rebuilt TH200-R4 (of course - seems only the Buick GN got the good ones).

Am I going to be introuble when my parents come back from vacation?
Should I just install the cam 4 degrees advanced?

Any last minute advice?

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:25:07 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig 
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X-From: paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Pete Paraska)
Content-Length: 696

Kelly Murray  wrote:

>I just got one of the Daytona MIG 110amp "Pocket MIG" units at $329. 

I have that also.
 
>  I had lots of trouble welding the upside-down pieces, though.

Me too.  I was (and still am) under the impression it was just me.  I've
had no training in welding except from a friend showing me how and 
explaining the dangers of getting a good looking weld with the MIG
and not having a strong weld because of inadequate penetration.

Before I sign up for that course, can someone explain how to get my MIG
to weld upside down?  I usually bump the feed rate up.  Any tips?

Thanks,
~~~~ Pete (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) /\ IZCC#15 /\ Laurel,Maryland~~~~



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:28:45 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 711


-> Were you using pure argon or the argon/co2 mix.  What dia wire were
-> you using?

 I was using pure argon and .035" wire, some 4xxx alloy I think.  Worked
just dandy.  You need to set the pinch roller a little tigher to push
the aluminum wire, but it was no problem.

 I paid $116 each for my bottles, one argon, one argon/CO2.  I noticed
Northern Hydraulic in Atlanta has them, for $50 each, though they're not
listed in their catalog.  


-> I don't really care how pretty the weld is and strength isn't too
-> important (it for an airbox).

 Are you using 3003?  If so, it might be a lot neater if you gas weld
it.
                                                                                


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:32:11 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cadillac 500
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: mika@cs.caltech.edu
Content-Length: 1145

Hi guys,
  I have a 1974 Eldorado with a 500 engine that has cranky lifters, and
I thought I'd get down to business and pull the lifters and cam and replace
the whole mess someday soon. Does anyone have any good ideas where I could
get e.g., a new cam that is slightly more performance-oriented than the
standard one (since the rest of the drivetrain is in good shape, why stick
with 210 hp?), or for that matter any good suppliers of Cadillac parts
(I only know of a few myself), performance-oriented or otherwise. I'm
looking for addresses, phone numbers...:) Thanks for your time.

[ There is a guy that runs something like "Cadillac Motorsports", or
"Total Performance Cadillac", or something like that.  He has been
written up in HRM a few times.  My father is on his mailing list.
Perhaps some other user has the address, I do not.

My father was going to put a 472 in a ?'78 Omega.  Various bad things
happened.  I think he still has the Omega and the 472, both quite
nice, plus a rebuilt, kitted TH400.  --FEP ]


   Regards,
    Mika Nystrom
    mika@cs.caltech.edu
    Dept. of Computer Science
    California Institute of Technology


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:34:49 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: The 327
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Jim Davies 
Content-Length: 1185



On Thu, 8 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> -> Dont forget that there are two early small bearing 283/327 block
> -> castings...if you get the right block, even if its a 283, then a 327
> 
>  Uh, the 283 is a 3.875 bore, the 327 is a 4.00 bore. 
This is correct.

 Completely different castings.
> 
This is incorrect. There are at least two foundries that supplied this 
casting. After 1962, when the 327 appeared, some 283 blocks started out 
as a 327 casting, although the finish machining was different.

> -> lose the heavy big bearing crank, although the later rods are nice;>
> 
>  The Chevy has the next-smallest bearings of all the American V8s, and
> bearings, or lack of, are a perennial trouble. 
Interesting. Ive been involved with a *few* and wasnt aware of this.

 I'm solidly in the
> bigger-is-better crowd, though it would be a trick getting a large
> journal crank into a small journal block...

Well, this is a religious war kind of subject. To each his own.

Jim Davies

[ The other DSEA hotrod user pulled out the HP book on SBC.  This is 
discussed in some detail about 3/4 of the way through.  You are
correct about the "it works for some block" idea.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:39:10 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cheap MIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: HJZ@MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU
Content-Length: 1412

There is Clark model in an Anderson General Store in my area for sell for only
$265, with free instruction tape, hand held mask, gas regulator, a spool of
wires. It can put out about 110 am at about 30% duty cycle and will weld up
to 3/16" mild steel. Now I know people don't like cheap tools, neither do I.
But since I am on a very tight budget, its price is very appealling to me. Also
my usage of this machine will be minimal. I am on my last one or two years of
PH.D programm, I doubt I will have any spare time. I really want to make myself
a subframe connector for my Firebird and some other small project. So it will
not be under heavy usage. So under these circumstances, does any of you still
think I should not think of buying it? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

Jizhong

PS. Any one also interested in this unit? Let me know.

[ My limited use of and familiarity with MIG units has lead me to
believe that good current control and good wire control are essential
to getting smooth, consistent welds.  The cheap boxes do not have good
current control or good wire control.  

My father-in-law work at Ratheon in builing-Patriot-missles
department and can weld with whatever tool he wants.  He bought one of 
those sub-$300 units for home use, used it twice and then returned it as 
unusable.  Even for fixing snowblowers and garden tools.  

I have heard similar things from others.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:43:00 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 2082


-> I don't see the 25% duty cycle is a problem unless you're doing
-> production work.

 If I could afford a monstrous Miller or Lincoln MIG I'd have one.  I
can't so I have the little Century.  Despite the nasty comments people
have made about them it's a hell of a lot better than Super Glue!

 I've been out in the shop for hours at a time with Ozzy Osbourne
cranked up on the radio and the little welder laying pounds of wire on
chassis and roll bar parts.  Duty cycle?  Yeah, probably if you were
doing production work, but I've never managed to get the thing to do its
thermal shutdown.

 What I really want now is a TIG rig.  And a welding course - my little
black cloud struck again.  The local vo-tech has had a welding course
twice a year for twenty years, but when I went to sign up, it had been
canceled due to not enough people to fill a class.  Cripes.

 What's almost as good as the welder is the little $175 horizontal band
saw kit I got from Harbor Freight.  It's not advertised as a kit, but
you have to do enough fiddling to get it to work that they ought to.  On
the other hand, it works quite well once you get it all adjusted, rewire
it, and fill the "sealed" gearbox with lubricant.  I can drop in a piece
of three inch bar stock, flip the switch, and feel bad about all the
exercise I'm losing by not using a hack saw...
  
[  Yes!  I WON one of those at the Andover, MA Enco grand opening.
What a time saver once you get it cutting straight.  Do not even think
of using the Enco/Harbor Freight blades.  Go to Home Depot and buy the
Delta blades.  Much better, but not perfect.  

Throw away the wheels, wiring, and blade guard.  Got to a yard sale
and get a used Luxo-style light and mount it on the frame.  Also, if
you found that the blade tension system lacks travel, look carefully
at the knob on top.  If it like mine, you can get a great deal more
travel by shimming the knob.  I used one of the cast zinc nuts
designed to hold conduit connectors into electrical boxes.  Smooth,
non-galling action and proper blade tension for a few cents.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:48:40 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-46*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 6928

Hi all,

Sorry about last week. Things just got a little busy and the list sorta
got OBE'd.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now ending its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation 
of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, 
my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

POWERBOAT RACING (T)                  12/09    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
MotoWorld II                          12/09   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    12/10    1:00-2:00AM      SCOH
AMA Season Review                     12/10    1:00-2:00AM      PASS
MotoWorld II                          12/10    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/10    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (engine rebuilding)12/10    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             12/10    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
MotorWeek                             12/10    12:30-1:00PM     WUSA
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/10    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/10    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/10    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Sports Cavalcade                      12/10    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (T)                 12/11    1:30-2:30AM      ESPN2
MotoWorld                             12/11    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/11    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (DW & Joe Gibbs)  12/11    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/11    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/11    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/11   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
AUTO RACING (T)                       12/11    12:00-1:00PM     ESPN2
Power Wheels                          12/11    1:00PM           ESPN2
HYDROPLANE RACING, HAWAII (T)         12/11    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (DW & Joe Gibbs)  12/11    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/11    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/11    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, TUCSON (L)        12/11    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (engine rebuilding)12/11    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/11    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/11    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/11    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               12/11    10:00-10:30PM    TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/11    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/11    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/11   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
WoO, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS, PART 1 (T)  12/12    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
SHELBY PRO, DALLAS (T)                12/12    1:00-2:00AM      HTS
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/12    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
WORLD SUPERBIKES, ARGENTINA (T)       12/12    2:00-3:00AM      HTS
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/12    2:00-2:30AM      TNN
DRAG RACING (T)                       12/12    3:00-4:00AM      ESPN2
Porsche SuperCup Year In Review       12/12    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN2
IMSA, EXXON SUPREME SERIES (T)        12/12    7:30-9:00PM      ESPN2
HYDROPLANE RACING, HAWAII (T)         12/14    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
FORMULA II SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)    12/14    5:00-6:00PM      HTS
IHBA POWERBOATS, PHOENIX (T)          12/15    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
IHBA POWERBOATS, PHOENIX (T)          12/15    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             12/15    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
SCORE, BAJA 100, MEXICO (T)           12/17    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
MotoWorld II                          12/17    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NASCAR LATE MODEL STOCKS, TUCSON (L)  12/18    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, POMONA (T)                      12/31    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, TUCSON (L)        01/08    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, TUCSON (L)          01/15    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NASCAR WINSTON WEST, TUCSON (L)       01/22    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30PM           TNN

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"
WRC      Washington, DC
WUSA     Washington, DC
-------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec  9 13:55:02 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: RE: Mig vs. Tig 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Fontana Peter" 
Content-Length: 522

>  I had lots of trouble welding the upside-down pieces, though.

Me too - last time I used a MIG upside down I couldn't get good results.  Can
you rent an arc welder?  I've never arc welded - just Mig and gas -  but I'm
willing to experiment.  Maybe getting things tacked into place, and then
renting an arc to get good penetration upside down would work - any ideas? 
What should I rent, in terms of power, adjustability, etc for basic
suspension/frame stuff?

Thanks - Peter Fontana
fontana.peter@mail.ndhm.gtegsc.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:15:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Cheap MIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 437

Consider used major brands. They will be easiest to get parts for, and
a better value all in all. I bought mine used, a 160A unit (that I use 
on no higher setting than 5/10 for heat and 2/10 for feed), spot and
stitch (that don't seem to work) and polarity reversal (that does)
for $300. Hanson, I think the make is, but everything in it seems to
be Lincoln compatible. Tweco gun. Picked up a reconditioned flow reg
w/ gauge for $30. 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:17:14 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac 500
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
Content-Length: 296

     EVERYONE needs to download Dave Williams' BIG LIST.  It's a hundred or 
     so pages of addresses and numbers of performance suppliers for stuff 
     from Alpha's to Zuli's...

     bdermond@cc.atinc.com

[ If I knew where it was, I put it here for "hotrod ftpmail" use.  
Dave?  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:19:16 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cheap MIG 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 1889


> There is Clark model in an Anderson General Store in my area for sell for only
> $265, with free instruction tape, hand held mask, gas regulator, a spool of
> wires. It can put out about 110 am at about 30% duty cycle and will weld up
> to 3/16" mild steel. Now I know people don't like cheap tools, neither do I.
[...]

> [ My limited use of and familiarity with MIG units has lead me to
> believe that good current control and good wire control are essential
> to getting smooth, consistent welds.  The cheap boxes do not have good
> current control or good wire control. 
>   My father-in-law work at Ratheon in builing-Patriot-missles
> department and can weld with whatever tool he wants.  He bought one of 
> those sub-$300 units for home use, used it twice and then returned it as 
> unusable.  Even for fixing snowblowers and garden tools.  
>   I have heard similar things from others.  --FEP ]

I think you are right.  I called about a used unit (new at $1,600), and 
they guy also returned a cheap one they bought that didn't work well.
But this is for use on lightweight metal work, particularly sheet-metal 
or automotive body panels.   I think there's agreement that the cheap MIG
units are lousy at low-amp settings required for sheet-metal work.

My welding tasks are primarly chassis work, so I don't see any problems
going with the cheap one.  If I was planning on doing lots of sheet-metal
work, I'd imagine DaytonaMIG cheap ($400) 100amp TIG unit would be better
for a low-budget solution.

I'd love to get an expensive one.  I'm attending a Race-car chassis shop
bankruptcy auction tomorrow, and am hoping to get a steal of a deal
on their MIG and TIG welders being sold, as well as other neat stuff
like tubing bender, sheet-metal brake, etc.   Well see how much this stuff
goes for.  I'm afraid my wife's going to kill me when I came back...  :))

-Kelly Murray


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:21:18 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Overhead MIG welding
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Johanson, Al" 
Content-Length: 1045


Hi gang,

Here's some info from one of my welding book on welding
"upside-down".

 - Travel speeds must be increased because of gravity
 - Weave beads shouldn't be too wide because too much
heat can cause the weld metal to fall out of the joint
 - Keep the gun nozzle clean (more gunk will fall in)
 - You might have to increase the gas flow rate of your
shielding gas since it's flowing upward
 - Work angles and travel angles are the same as welding
in the "flat" position, except upside-down

I'm no expert, but I think the main thing here is travel
speed.  It will have to be fast enough to make sure all
the metal doesn't fall out of the joint, but when you move
fast, you may require higher amperage to compensate
for the reduced penetration.  This may be tough for small
machines welding thick metal "upside-down".
Try using a "push" technique when welding - the "drag"
style doesn't penetrate as well.

And lastly - if you don't know what I'm talking about - you
should buy a book on GMAW (MIG) welding!  :-)

Allan



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:23:30 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 411

 Upside down welding success for me depends on having a small enough 
melt zone that surface tension will hold the pool in place. This 
in turn means lower heat and feed. A high feed / low heat setting will
get metal laid but won't achieve penetration. Low feed/low heat results 
in slower deposition, but more control. You may need to weld spot by
spot rather than continuous bead, to keep the metal hanging.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:25:49 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Brake shoes for drag application
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 3503


> I    wrote:
>>It sounds like you need a trans brake.
>
>Do they make a trans brake for the 700R4? Aren't they kind of hard on
>drivetrain parts?

I don't know about trans brakes for the T700; I never had occasion
to work with one.

>The advantage of using the brakes to hold it is that you're not hitting
>the front and rear end with a big snap of torque. Gives you somewhat of
>a pre-load effect.

Right.  You should still do this even with a trans brake: come up to
the line, hold the brake firmly, torque the engine to an appropriate
RPM, engage the trans brake, and relax a bit on the foot brake.  You
can now back off on the throttle until the lights begin to go.
The drive line stays preloaded and you can now run the engine up as
much as you want without increasing the load on the brakes.

>It's also true that I need a higher stall converter, which hopefully
>will be going in a upcoming trans rebuild.

Ah.  More stall = more torque through the trans, all other things
being equal.  If you have problems pulling through the brakes now
then it will get a lot worse with a higher stall converter.

> Which brings me to another
>topic...
>
>The 700R4. Seems as though my valve body has decided to take a powder-
>It won't shift into 4th by itself. Running through 'em manually works
>fine though.

I don't know if the T700 has a particular weakness that would show
this sypmtom.  In general, a failure to shift indicates that something
is plugged up with deposits.  Those deposits are usually ground up
bits of important trans parts such as bushings, clutch linings, etc.
If the damage is immediately attended to then you can probably save
most of the parts.  Left alone, the particles will accumulate in
various places and will do several bad things (e.g., cause excess
wear on the pump, reduce the pressure to clutches, etc.) and will
greatly hasten the demise of the trans.

>What are the weak spots in the 700R4? What can I do while I'm in there to
>help it hold up to repeated hard launches?

Again, I have to claim ignorance of the details of the T700.  In
general, the big enemy of a race transmission is heat.  A high stall
converter can add a LOT of heat to the oil and you need to get rid
of that heat.  I run a cooler which is connected between the trans
oil _output_ and the heat exchanger in the radiator.  The return
oil to the trans therefore is at about the same temperature as the
engine coolant and this is good because cold tranny fluid doesn't
lubricate well.

You might also benefit from modifications which increase the
line pressure under WOT conditions.  You don't want to boost the
line pressure under normal street driving conditions because 1)
you don't need the increased pressure then, 2) it makes the trans
shift harder which puts extra wear and tear on the drive train, and
3) the trans pump will wear out a lot faster when putting out higher
pressure.  For these reasons it is best to limit the pressure boost
to detent conditions.

You may also need higher line pressure when staging.  You will
probably not have the throttle wide open while staged yet you
will have a lot of torque in the trans.  Probably the best way
to arrange higher pressure is to put an electrically controlled
solenoid into the main pressure regulator system so that the line
pressure is boosted when a dash-mounted switch is on.  Put a light
on the same circuit so that you won't forget it and leave it on while
driving around town.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Sat Dec 10 22:28:06 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Joe B. McGlynn (415) 354-2728" 
Content-Length: 841

>>  I had lots of trouble welding the upside-down 
pieces, though.

>Me too - last time I used a MIG upside down I 
couldn't get good results.

The less expensive MIG welders work on the 'droplet' principle.  That
is, as you weld droplets of filler wire are formed and fall into the
weld puddle.  The really expensive MIG welders, those with very high
power capabilities operate on the 'spray' principle, overall a better
process.

Not to say that you _can't_ do out of position welds with a MIG, just
perhaps that it isn't the best tool for it.  Personally, I wouldn't
want to do overhead ARC welding either.  Both create a lot of smoke and
sparks.

If you are interested in getting beautiful weld beads, maximum
penetration, the most flexability and a smoke/splatter/spark free
environment get a TIG machine and learn how to use it.

Joe


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 12 12:19:34 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac 500
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Richard D McCardell 
Content-Length: 1089

Where is this so-called "Dave Williams' BIG LIST".  I would loveto have the info

[  I just so happens I got a note from Dave himself


   Sounds good.  After dixie went down, Chuck Fry found room on the Ford
   list.  However, the more the merrier.
  
    Here's the boilerplate for how to get it from the Ford site:

   The Automotive Contact List, version 94.07.01 created and maintained
   by: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us The Auto Contact List is also
   available via FTP on ftp.rahul.net (userid "anonymous", password
   your email address), as /pub/chucko/auto-contact-list (228 KB,
   uncompressed) or /pub/chucko/auto-contact-list.gz (79 KB, gzip'd)

   Please don't ask me to send you the list directly; my mailer only
   accepts 200 lines at a time, and I send the latest versions to dixie
   on floppy.  You can also download the list via modem at The Courts
   of Chaos BBS, (501)985-0059 as CARLIST.LZH.


   I expect to pick the list up later today and place it so it can be
   gotten by hotrod ftpmail.   More to follow if I succeed.  --FEP ]


Rick
mccardellrd@sb.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 12 12:27:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cadillac 500
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: gregg@fmrco.com (Gregg Pitkin)
Content-Length: 1460

There are 2 places you can get Caddy 500 and 472 performance parts 
that I know of.  I got both of these company names from Dave's vendor 
list.  

Max Torque Specialists
92 Town Farm Rd
Winchendon MA 01475
(508) 297-4544

Cadillac MotorSports Development
2810-6 Parkway St.
LakeLand FL 33811
(813) 648-5114

A catalog costs around $3-5 bucks.  The catalog from CMD comes with 5 or  
6 pages of tech tips.  Very informative and definately worth the 5 spot.  
 
You may be intersted, in the Nov(?) issue of Hot Rod they did 
a piece on swapping a 500 into a late model El Comino.  They talk
a little about the engine and performance. 

You will find a 500 build up a tad on the expensive side, but the 
results look very promising.  I have not yet orderd from either 
supplier as I am still in the planning, and saving $$ stages of my project.
I have a '61 Caddy with a 390. I have just purchased a 76 with the 500 
and am going to do a swap this spring.  I am currently looking at what 
type of build up I can afford.  I'd like to hear what you are thinking 
and what you end up doing.  

On a side note, My Chilton Caddy manual lists horse power and torque
for these motors.  I think it was 72-73 or 73-74 the Torque and horse 
power propped off quite a bit.  I remember something about GM changing
the way they measured both of these. Is this true?  Was it both Torque
and HP?


Gregg

gregg@fmrco.com
61 Caddy Coupe Deville
76 Caddy Coupe Deville Beat Box


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 12 12:31:35 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 1495


>  Upside down welding success for me depends on having a small enough 
> melt zone that surface tension will hold the pool in place. This 
> in turn means lower heat and feed. A high feed / low heat setting will
> get metal laid but won't achieve penetration. Low feed/low heat results 
> in slower deposition, but more control. You may need to weld spot by
> spot rather than continuous bead, to keep the metal hanging.

Thanks for the tips.  The net-effect of my difficulties with the
overhead welding produced essentially spot-welding.  It would've
worked better if I tried to do it that way to begin with.
Fortunately the 2 or 3 other sides got good welds.

The update on the race-shop bankruptcy auction FYI that I attended over
the weekend was that nothing was sold cheap.  In fact, I was constantly
amazed what people were bidding.  I mean the prices were almost up to
the cost of the stuff new.  Can you believe $60 for a worn out die grinder?
Or $150 for an old engine hoist, and $60 for an engine stand?  
$225 for a pile of rusting tubing (U-move).
The only real steal was a Dragster chassis for $150 that nobody wanted
(I was even tempted at that price).
The tubing bender went for over $600. The MIG welder (Miller 160 I think)
went for $1,000, and the TIG (Miller 250) unit sold for $1,400, 
which was actualy a very good deal, but still out of my reach.

Too many people there who wanted the stuff.  Now the restaurant equipment
they had was going for a song...

-Kelly Murray


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 19:13:05 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Misc
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1033

List related news:
   I have picked up Dave Williams engine weights and auto contacts lists.
Each is available via hotrod ftpmail.  Send a null message with
subject "hotrod ftpmail get engine-weights" for the engine-weights file, 
for example.

Dave Williams, if you feel like it, The contacts list could include

      Corvette California USA
      1300 S Anaheim Blvd
      Anaheim, CA 92804
	714-99-VETTE
      For genuine GM Corvette parts shipped all over the world, at about
          30% off list.  Also sells GM engines, ZZ3, LT1, various big blocks

      Auto-Rite Transmissions
      15201 Oxnard, Van Nuys CA 91411
      818 988 2167
      These guys have done most of the transmissions for the Hot Rod magazine
      cars.  I got my tranny there.  Big Block Chevys with T700R4s.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 19:53:07 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Clean Air Act implications??
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X-From: bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com (Brian Kelley)
Content-Length: 397


As I understand the situation, the Clean Air Act will impose a bunch of
new restrictions in January, 1995.

Certain solvents will no longer be available, etc (I had heard
Trichlorethane was one).  I am sure that many of us would like to
stock up on any "good" products before they become unavailable.

Does anyone know what is going to change in 1995?

  Brian


--
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 20:32:26 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac 500
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X-From: Chefeff@aol.com
Content-Length: 135

Wolverine Products has a performance cam and associated springs, etc.  They
should be available thru most any auto parts distributor.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 20:34:28 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Auction prices (was Mig Vs. Tig)
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1047

>The update on the race-shop bankruptcy auction FYI that I attended over
>the weekend was that nothing was sold cheap.  In fact, I was constantly
>amazed what people were bidding.  I mean the prices were almost up to
>the cost of the stuff new.  Can you believe $60 for a worn out die grinder?
>Or $150 for an old engine hoist, and $60 for an engine stand?  
>$225 for a pile of rusting tubing (U-move).
>The only real steal was a Dragster chassis for $150 that nobody wanted
>(I was even tempted at that price).
>The tubing bender went for over $600. The MIG welder (Miller 160 I think)
>went for $1,000, and the TIG (Miller 250) unit sold for $1,400, 

Mail order - the Miller 150 can be had for about $950 and a new Miller
250 is $1600.  I passed up on a worn out miller 250 for about $500 -
had I known at the time that I could not get one for less than $1000 I
would have bought it.  Unfortunatly the outer case was a little beaten
up - I could only guess what happened inside.  In fact the outer case
was welded on - cheap looking brackets


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 20:59:05 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig
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X-From: Jim Davies 
Content-Length: 2075



> 
>  What's almost as good as the welder is the little $175 horizontal band
> saw kit I got from Harbor Freight.  It's not advertised as a kit, but
> you have to do enough fiddling to get it to work that they ought to.  On
> the other hand, it works quite well once you get it all adjusted, rewire
> it, and fill the "sealed" gearbox with lubricant.  I can drop in a piece
> of three inch bar stock, flip the switch, and feel bad about all the
> exercise I'm losing by not using a hack saw...
>   
> [  Yes!  I WON one of those at the Andover, MA Enco grand opening.
> What a time saver once you get it cutting straight.  Do not even think
> of using the Enco/Harbor Freight blades.  Go to Home Depot and buy the
> Delta blades.  Much better, but not perfect.  
> 
> Throw away the wheels, wiring, and blade guard.  Got to a yard sale
> and get a used Luxo-style light and mount it on the frame.  Also, if
> you found that the blade tension system lacks travel, look carefully
> at the knob on top.  If it like mine, you can get a great deal more
> travel by shimming the knob.  I used one of the cast zinc nuts
> designed to hold conduit connectors into electrical boxes.  Smooth,
> non-galling action and proper blade tension for a few cents.  --FEP ]
> 
> 
Even better are Starrett bands, and even better than these little band 
saws are the power hack saws, especially with starrett blades. They arent 
as sexy as a band saw, but if you cut a LOT of steel, well, they are like 
the bunny ad, just keep on going. plus they cut straight without a lot of 
constant tinkering. Check out the distance between the blade guides, and 
wheels on a taiwan band saw, then check the distance between these two 
points on a DoAll or other real (expensive) band saw. The short distance 
on the taiwan stuff stresses the band, resulting in short life, and seems 
to force the saw to cut crooked. Like all taiwan stuff I have seen, the 
power hacksaws need lots of tinkering to get going, but they will 
produce. Now, if you have a chance to use a REAL power hacksaw...

Jim Davies



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 21:16:16 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Chevelle Notes
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X-From: Ford41@aol.com
Content-Length: 406

I don't think epoxy will hold the nuts to the oil pan.  It's amazing how
strong a small dent can be, instead try brazing the nuts to the pan, empty
the oil first.  MIG or TIG welding could be used also, not as much heat.
 I've used this method on motorcycle tanks and it doesn't work bad.
                                                   
[ I was going to buy some brazing rod at lunch today... --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 21:35:18 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: Ford41@aol.com
Content-Length: 527

After reading most of the comments, if you can gas weld at all then stick
welding was easier and TIG or MIG is even easier.  TIG just  takes longer but
does look neater.  I'm lucky  enough to have all but for every day use I
prefer MIG, and I'm talking building street rods from a custom frame up.  The
best advice is to call HTP welders(don't have the number handy).  For $15
they have a video available that explains all about ;MIG welders(refundable).
  I've welded  22 guage without much problem then went to 3/8 plate.  


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 13 21:42:29 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac 500 
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X-From: mika@cs.caltech.edu
Content-Length: 1335

Thanks for your addresses. Yes, GM (and I think all other auto makers)
changed their ratings in 1973, I think. The earlier ratings are "gross
brake horsepower, SAE"; in each case 1 hp SAE is 1.08 DIN hp (the 
European horsepower is thus a little bit smaller). The pre-1973 ratings
are for the engine bare (without any accessories, i.e., without
the water pump, a/c compressor, p/s pump, etc.), whereas the later
ratings are "net" ratings where the power is measured with all the
accessories attached. The difference is generally on the order of 
20-30% (substantial!) As an example, the Pontiac Super Duty 455 of 1973
rated at 310 bhp net was supposedly one of the strongest Pontiac engines
ever made even though some of the earlier (but weaker) ones were rated
at 360+ hp (net). I think the same thing applies to the torque.. in other
words my 210 bph/350 lb-ft '74 is probably equivalent to about 275 hp
in 1970, but the 500 sold in '70 was rated at 400 hp :)

  I don't know how much I am going to end up doing to my car.. I don't have
a whole lot of money to spend on it and it keeps breaking down (ugh!)..
this damn front wheel drive business is a real hassle. I'd have bought
a Coupe de Ville if I had had any idea how painful the Eldorado is to 
maintain. Thanks again for the addresses! I'll be sure to check it out.

   Mika


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 14 17:52:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: kking@io.com (kenneth c king)
Content-Length: 381

greetings:
  someone was mentioning about the htp welding video.  i've got it,
and am willing to part with it.  $5.00 (not-applicable to your
purchace :) will get it.  i ended up w/ a hobart handler 120v mig
rig for (mostly) sheetmetal work.  works great!  just under a grand
w/ tank, regulator, two helmets, a spare spool of wire, (the works!)

later,
kc

kking@pentagon.io.com 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 15 16:37:56 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com (Brian Kelley)
Content-Length: 3765


>Choices:
>
>Arc Welder - an AC/DC machine - pro's: cheap, and can do alot (with
>specialty welding rods) - con's: alot of heat, can't do thin stuff,
>might warp the big stuff - also pretty much un-accepted by NHRA for
>roll cages / bars.  Probably nice to have in any case.

For welding heavy steel, _nothing_ beats the bang for the buck you get from
a stick welder.  You should be able to find a used unit suitable for
trailer work very cheap.  You have to spend some pretty serious money to
get a MIG or TIG unit with comparable penetration.

>Mig Welder (gas) - pro's: can weld just about anything - up to the
>thickest steel I'll use - con's: expensive, also concern about limited
>penetration.

Not correct!  You can't weld just about anything with a MIG.  Welding
aluminum, for instance, can be very difficult.  Switching the wire,
while not a *big* deal, is definitely a pain compared to a TIG.  The
aluminum wire is very soft and does not feed well with a "push" feed
system.  You can buy a pull feed torch, but if you're going to do
aluminum, get a TIG.

>Tig Welder - pro's: better penetration than Mig - con's: even more
>expensive ( although I have found two used ones for $1000), more
>difficult to use (I'll definitly take classes).

TIG welders are extremely versatile, but expensive and generally
rather large and very heavy.  However, to weld a wide variety of
materials you will need both a CO2 and Argon tank to control the gas
mixture.  For MIGing mild steel, you can get a pre-mix and only need
one tank.

A friend of mine who welds professionally uses hydrogren as a final shielding
gas.  As you weld, the hydrogen burns and consumes any oxygen.  He says
it helps.

>Also
>is a TIG practicle for welding in tight places?

Most definitely!  The TIG torch head is smaller than a MIG head, and
a wide variety of shapes and lengthes are available.  For some roll
cage work, TIG is the only way to get the necessary access.

>[ I have used a stick welder and a MIG welder.  The stick is fast but
>not too clean.  The MIG unit was a $5000 Miller with variable
>everything and good power.  For 1/4" mild steel plate it was like
>using a caulking gun -- incredibly fast and easy.

The big, high quality MIG welders are a joy to use.  A big unit like
that can fill a 1" gap in one pass.  There are definitely cases where
you would grab your MIG rather than your TIG, given a choice.

But if you're interested in doing anything other than mild steel, I 
would strongly lean towards the TIG.

>Do not forget that you will probably spend $1000 in welding
>accesories.  You will need a welding apron, gloves, helmet,
>respirator, clamps, a few jigs and perhaps some shoes.  You will need
>at least one good grinder and a pile of grinding wheels.   You will
>need plenty of filler, be it rods, wire, or whatever TIG uses.

$1000?  Hardly!  For my roll cage and chassis work, I bought a Daytona
Mig MIG welder.  With the tank, shield and a few spare parts, it was
$500 to my door.  I've put at least 20 lbs of wire through that welder.
A better shield will set you back around $25.  I assume you already
have wire brushes.  A Makita angle gringer will set you back $55.
A set of gloves $10..

At this point, I would really like to have a TIG.  But they aren't at
all portable.  My MIG welder is very portable and when I do get a TIG,
I'm sure I will continue to use it.

I really feel you can spend $500 + $100 misc and do some serious
work.  However, a small 110 volt unit like that isn't going to weld
thicker steel.  It will do 1/8" just fine.  Getting adequate penetration
in 3/16" is a definite concern and 1/4" is definitely questionable 
(but do-able).  With the thicker metals, pre-heating is mandatory.

  Brian

---
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 15 16:52:42 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: CR, gears, and 1980's fuel
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Randy Brown 
Content-Length: 786

Forwarded message:
> >From dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us  Tue Nov 29 06:04:01 1994
> 
>  The pitting in the cylinder walls is due to the engine being in storage
> since 1980; living in a swamp has drawbacks.  Grant was running open
> chamber heads, which dropped the CR down to about 12:1, and 4.56 gears
> with a four speed; you could do that with leaded premium in 1980.

I was running a 389 with 11:1, 4.11 gears with a Muncie 4-speed, on
leaded/leaded premium mix (with water injection) up until 1985 in
Oklahoma.  Thank god for that last gas station still selling real
premium (it was $1.50 back then and I thought that was bad!).  Every
once in a while I'd put in an entire tank of premium, man did that
engine love that (although a $30 fillup for 200 miles kinda hurt).

Randy



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 15 17:03:09 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
Content-Length: 984

I'm in the "I'm great with a stick and MIG, which I have and can afford, 
but a TIG would be nice" category, so my contribution will be from the 
practical point of view.
     
NHRA does NOT allow stick-welded anything; Chrome moly must be TIG welded, 
mild steel can be TIG or MIG welded.  MIG welding gets a bad rap because 
you can make beautiful beads with no penetration, but that doesn't mean 
it's a bad process; you just have to make sure that your skill level is 
adequate.  My local voc/tech school charged $60 for 16 weeks of MIG/TIG 
instruction; definitely worthwhile.
     
At any rate, my Super Street Nova is built with a MIG, except for those 
particular areas of concern that I farmed out, like suspension components. 
I have friends with TIG machines, so I do my fabrication and 
jigging/tacking myself, and have them do the finish welding.  A TIG would 
(WILL) be nice, but I found the MIG appropriate for 90% of my projects.

My $.02

bdermond@cc.atinc.com
     

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 15 17:30:21 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig (Miller's new one)
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 635

> I just recently learned by word-of-mouth that Miller has a new
> TIG welder on the market.  At about $1000 it sounds like a honey.
> Supposedly, it has current adjustable way down so that you can do
> the little bitty stuff like brackets and not have trouble.  If
> anyone learns more about this machine, please post.

Miller has an "ecno Tig" that doesn't seem to have water hook-up.  About the 
size of a small flux wire welder.  Don't know about the price but I have the 
brouchur at home.  I contacted Miller via a phone number in a recent Hot Rod 
magazine.  Of the smaller Migs they carry a 130, 175 and 250 and 250MP.

Dirk



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 15 17:55:28 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Is anybody out there?
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Bill Dermond" 
Content-Length: 245

     

Dave:

I've got a decent steel large journal 3.25" crank.  If your interested, I'll 
ship it COD; if you can use it, we'll arrive at a price.

BTW, I downloaded the Big List.  Wow.  Thanks for your hard work.

Bill 
bdermond@cc.atinc.com

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 15 19:44:12 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: More Caddy 500 Questions
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X-From: gregg@fmrco.com (Gregg Pitkin)
Content-Length: 742

Has anyone done any work with the Caddy Fuel Injection system on the
500?  Is it the same as other GM FI?  Is it reliable?  My trusty (gag)
Chilton's manual lists it as an option on 75 and 76 500's.  Do any of
the after market FI Wonder chip Programmers do custom work, such as
this unit??

[ I have wondered just how they did Cadzilla, and just what fuel
system is used on the Presidential Limos, the last remaining use of
big Caddy motors.

I imagine that the recently developed, wickedly expensive ACCEL EFI
for big block Chevy could be modified to work.  You might be better
starting from scratch, though.   Have fun.  --FEP ]

That's what I like about our hobby.  So many differant ways accomplish 
the same thing, HORSE POWER!!

gregg


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 13:27:12 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Spark Knock
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X-From: cressa@iit.com (Matt Cressa)
Content-Length: 1518

I was hoping someone could help with a couple of problems I am having
after rebuilding my AMC 258.  

The problems are a slight sputter, like there is a little unburned gas
when the engine is NOT under a load.  When under a load, as when accelerating
on the road, I get a slight spark knock.

I had the engine rebuilt professionally, and have replaced many components that
were starting to fail, or had failed.  The timing is correct, as far as I can
tell, and I even had a Quality Tune place check it while it was being smogged.

I was suspecting an ignition problem, and have replaced the distributor, the
ignition module, the coil, wires, rotor and cap.  All were pretty beat up
except for the ignition module which I managed to get for free.  I have double
checked the spark plug gaps, and made sure the wires aren't arcing.  

The plugs were slightly suity from and including the threads down, and a 
light rusty/reddish from the threads up.  From what I have read this might mean
a rich mixture with a bunch of winter gas additives?

I was guessing a weak spark might cause both of these types of problems, but
how can I find out for sure?  I don't want to drop all kinds of money on an 
after-market ignition unless I know all of the stock parts are working 
correctly first.

Also, does anyone know of a diagnostic shop in the SF Bay Area that is not
unreasonably pricey?  Possibly someone with a dyno?  I have never had anyone
work on my cars before, so I am kinda lost here.

Thanks

-Matt 

cressa@iit.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 13:41:03 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Alternator woes
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X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 3287

	Help me out on this one peoples. My car has an OEM wiring
harness in it (69 chevelle) with the regulator connector jumpered
for an internal regulator alternator. I have a cutoff switch on the
rear deck of the car. If the car is running, and I turn the cutoff
switch OFF, the car continues to run, albeit poorly. The interior
light flickers badly (if it is on) and the car idles very badly.
The purpose of the cutoff switch is to stop all function of the 
car, as per NHRA rule book, right? Ok, the car is mechanical FI, so 
somehow ignition is maintained (an alternator is self sustaining, 
right?) and as long as the FI pump has fuel, the engine will 
continue to run. Having a 2 gallon surge tank for the FI, this means
the car could run for a while.

	The rub. My sponsor claims that his car will indeed shut off
if his external disconnect is turned off. His car has been stripped
of wiring and wired with only the bare necessities but it does have
an alternator in it.

	Also, my car behaved the same way when I had the conventional
external regulator alternator in it.

	So, how do you guys with alternators in your cars get them past 
this ruling in the NHRA rulebook? Or is it a problem for you also?
I really would like to correct this because I feel it is a safety
issue, but the only immediate solution I see is to buy (ouch) one
of those single wire altrernators. (They claim these will function
within the rulings somehow).

Email replies from those on the hotrod list please, as my reception
of it seems sporadic. 

Thanks.

[ I am going to take a few gueses here.  If the car is in a
steady-state running condition, with mechanical fuel injecttion, it
will get air and fuel as long as it turns.  You want to positivly
eliminate spark.

With the alternator turning, it is producing power.  Disconnecting
it from the battery via a ground switch does not stop it from
producing power.  The field is still energized by the power being 
produced by the armature, and the field is still grounded in the 
case.  The power produced by the alternator is no longer smoothed
out by the battery, and would likely consist of rectified three
phase ( with a typical pully setup, I think that would be 12*RPM 
ripple DC ), plus any harmonics and noise that the alternator makes.
This type of power is not good for constant voltage devices like
transistorized ignition.  Hence the ability to run, but badly.

What to do?  You could either positivly collapse the field in the 
alternator, or remove power to your coil with a single pull double
through switch of some sort.  One leg would be the ground of the 
battery, one would be either of the others ( alternator field or
coil power ).

I think that to collapse the field on a 69 Chevelle, you simply need 
to ground the wire that runs from the alternator to the idiot light.
I may be wrong.  Anybody?

I cannot imagine, but am not sure, that the NHRA book will prevent
you from putting an additonal safety measure into your cut off
mechanism.

I bought a single wire alternator for my '64 Chevelle.  I went to 
Auto Parts Club and bought the cheapest one that fit.  I think it
was $52 for a 67 amp alternator.  What is "ouch" about that?

--FEP ]

Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 13:56:02 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Plasma Cutters
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X-From: Tom Carver 
Content-Length: 2905

Since everyone's on the subject of MIG and TIG, what kind of experience do
any of you have with those "affordable" Plasma Cutters?

I saw a demo of $1,000 plasma cutter at a Goodguys car show last summer.  It
was amazing how fast it could zip cuts right through steel, aluminum and even
stainless.  It was supposed to be able to cut through 1/4" steel.  I asked
how thick of a piece of stainless steel could it cut through, and the guy
said, "maybe about 3/16" with a little unsurety in his voice.  

They were zipping through 1/8" steel in a matter of split seconds, but I
noticed that they had the power setting on 100% MAX!   It makes me wonder
if it works all that well on 1/4" stuff.  Even so, it was pretty neat what it
could do.  All you need to use one of these is compressed air and 110Volts.

I see there's some cheaper ones advertised in magazines -- anyone used one
with good success?  

Cutting up stainless steel would be the greatest advantage of one of these. 
Cutting stainless steel plate is a major chore, even with a good "do-all"
bandsaw -- especially if you're trying to cut tight curves.

----

As far those cheap MIG welders:  I've run about 15 pounds of wire through my
"Astro 110".  It's a headache to adjust correctly sometimes, but once you get
to know it well, it can make really nice welds.  It seems to be best suited
to welding 1/8" steel.  I've used it for everything from sheet metal to 5/16"
thick with good success.  For the thick stuff, you need to grind a bevel on
both sides, and then weld it on both sides.  

Even with a half-assed welder, you can "get the job done" if you do a good
job on the weld prep and stuff.  

One thing that I think gives those el-cheapo welders a bad name is the
Mickey-Mouse ground cables they give you.  With those crappy ground clamps,
you can sometimes get a high-resistance ground which makes it seem like you
just don't have enough power.  

Once I get the power and wire feed speed dialed in correctly and get a good
solid ground, the welding is so easy I couldn't be happier.

The short duty cycle is usually not a problem, because usually I spend way
more time getting things aligned and square than I spend actually welding.
I've never had the machine even close to overheating.

That $300 welder has paid for itself over and over.  I wouldn't mind a 200
Amp machine for doing bigger stuff, but this machine's just fine for almost
everything.  For the difference in cost between my cheap Mig welder and a
good Mig welder, I bought a nice used "Smith's" oxy-acetylene torch and some
fairly big tanks.  The torch is nice for cutting and bending, but I prefer
using the MIG for welding.

I was told the Astro 110 is the same thing as the Astro 130, except that it
doesn't have a cooling fan.  My Astro is made in Italy.  I'm pretty sure they
sell the same machine under a dozen different brand names, like Daytona Mig,
etc. 
Tom


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 14:06:20 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: MIG vs. TIG 
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Kelly Murray 
Content-Length: 232


I'd like to get the video tape.  If it was already sold,
tell me who you sold it to, and I'll buy it from them
after they get a chance to look at it!!   We can just
pass it through to everyone who wants it, $5 at a time..

-Kelly


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 14:35:03 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject:  Merry Xmas
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: COOLEY@opsusa.sms.siemens.com (Dave, MR-TSE UPTIME Service Center Ext 2734)
Content-Length: 3064

Hello all,
This came from Patrick J. Stoehr on the Buick GNTTYPE list.
Thought it was appropriate and I would wish all of you a merry Xmas
in a good racers fashion!

Merry Xmas,
Dave Cooley
cooldave@nando.net


  Ho-Ho-Ho...


 Twas' the night before Christmas, I've been pacing the floor.
 Not much to do, with the Buick now stored.
 Parts catalogs spread all over the house.
 The list just keeps growing, and there's threats from the spouse.
 She's thinking of carpet, a new sofa and drapes.
 While I'm dreaming of 10's and then 9's and then 8's.

 Then out by the garage there arose such a clatter.
 Me and the "nine" went to see what was the matter.
 I got to the door and unlocked the latch.
 Then opened it slowly, and looked out towards the back.
 The security light shined on new-fallen snow.
 I thought, "5 more month before all this sh*t goes!"

 Then rounding the corner, what should appear.
 A crew-cab Chev dually, with a pit crew to fear.
 The driver now shouted, as they pulled up out back.
 "Get the door, and some coffee.  Make it strong, make it black!"
 In a flash they jumped out, and I thought I was dreaming.
 I hit the remote, into the garage they went streaming.
 There was Conley and Armstrong and Ruggles and Guzi.
 Mosher and Haas and Mike Tomaszewski.

 From the front of the grill, to the posi rear-end,
 they mapped out a plan, and then started right in.
 It wouldn't be easy, but they said they would try.
 They'd give it their best, to make my Buick fly.
 So out to the dually, a few of them flew,
 for some boxes of parts, and St. Lawrence, too.
 And then in a twinkling, they all had returned,
 St. Lawrence said, "Hope you've got money to burn?!"
 As I drew out my wallet, (and looked round for the spouse),
 St. Lawrence said, "Hey...this one's on the house."

 He was dressed all in teal, from his head to his foot.
 Out of his pocket, came his black "tuning" book.
 The boxes of parts were spread out on the bench,
 and they all grabbed some tools, and started to wrench.
 My eyes, how they twinkled, as his plan was now hatched.
 New headers and cam, heads ported and matched.
 The tranny was dropped and then closely inspected.
 The 10's (maybe 9's) were what they now projected.
 Titanium valves and some new stronger springs.
 New pistons and bearings, and let's not forget rings.
 The rear-end was dropped and the axles were changed.
 While one shouted Moser, another said Strange.
 Their work almost done, I said, "this is all great!"
 "But it's -20 below (and) I've got 5 months to wait."
 With a wink of his eye, and a slap on my back.
 St. Lawrence transported us all to a track!

 The car sounded strong, as I moved towards the line.
 St. Lawrence said, "Yes, everything looks just fine."
 I took my time, and staged real slow.
 They gave me the nod, and the revs how they rose.
 I launched real hard, and the turbo did whistle.
 And away I then flew like a well guided missile.

 They could hear me exclaim, as I blew through the lights.
 "Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good night!"

    Ho Ho Hooooo.....



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 16:09:25 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cylinder Glaze Begone!
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: met@pine.cse.nau.edu (MTN-KAT)
Content-Length: 1631

Introducing a new, albiet unwitting, product for eliminating unwanted
glazing of internal combustion engine cylinders. This product not only
removed the glazing that had taken hold of my number one cylinder, but
it did it in one easy application!  Was it abrasive? NO Was it
difficult to apply? NO

What is this miracle product you might very well be asking now...

Well let me tell you how I discovered it first.

I overheated the 302 in my Cougar thanks to a F.ing thermostat sticking
shut at high speed. I couldn't rev the engine at all without a cloud of
embarrassing oil smoke choking the vehicles behind me. A couple of
months, probably close to a year, went by and I finally decided that I
would have to remove the engine and hone and re-ring her pretty little
neck.  Then I for got that the gas gauge is there for a reason and
found myself out of gas. I called my wife to bring me a can of gas from
my garage. She accidently brought me the can of chainsaw mix instead,
32:1. I wasn't about to make her go all the way back for the right can,
so I poured the mix into my tank.  The engine smoked a little on the
way to the filling station where I filled up.  A couple of days went by
before I realized that the engine had stopped smoking!  It has now been
about 4 months and the glazing/smoking problem has yet to return.  I
got to thinking that I have yet to encounter a glazed chainsaw engine.

I can't gaurantee results but it will be my first recourse in the
future, just to be sure that it really was the solution.

Millam
PS. I hope that ya'all found some humor in my ad hype bull.
just one of them there silly days.



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 17:02:29 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-47*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 5585

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now ending its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation 
of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, 
my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

MotoWorld                             12/15    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
SCORE, BAJA 100, MEXICO (T)           12/17    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
MotoWorld II                          12/17    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/17    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (power steering)   12/17    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             12/17    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/17    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/17    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/17    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Sports Cavalcade                      12/17    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek (Monte Carlo & Lexus LS400) 12/17    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
Thrills & Spills                      12/17    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
DRAG RACING (T)                       12/18    12:00-1:00AM     ESPN2
MotoWorld                             12/18    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/18    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
MotorWeek                             12/18    3:30-4:00AM      WUSA
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/18    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Bernstein&Johnson12/18    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/18    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/18    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/18   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
AUTO RACING (T)                       12/18    12:00-1:00PM     ESPN2
Power Wheels                          12/18    1:00PM           ESPN2
N Bonnett's Winners (Bernstein&Johnson12/18    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/18    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/18    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
NASCAR LATE MODEL STOCKS, TUCSON (L)  12/18    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
MotoWorld II                          12/18    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic (power steering)   12/18    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/18    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/18    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/18    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (goats)       12/18    10:00-10:30PM    TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/18    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/18    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/18   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
NASCAR Southwest Tour Highlights      12/19    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/19    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
SHELBY PRO, ATLANTA (T)               12/19    2:00-3:00AM      HTS
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/19    2:00-2:30AM      TNN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (T)                 12/19    2:00-3:00AM      ESPN2
World Superbike Season Review         12/19    3:00-4:00AM      HTS
MotorWeek                             12/19    3:00-3:30AM      WGN
Secrets Of Speed                      12/19    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN2
SCORE, FIREWORKS 250 (T)              12/19    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN2
MOTORCYCLE RACING (T)                 12/19    8:30-9:00PM      ESPN2
RaceLine                              12/20    5:30-6:00PM      HTS
IHBA DRAG BOATS, SAN DIMAS (T)        12/22    2;00-2;30AM      ESPN
IHBA DRAG BOATS, SAN DIMAS (T)        12/22    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             12/22    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
For Race Fans Only w/Ernie Irvan      12/22    6:30-8:30PM      QVC
MotorWeek (Suzuki Swift)              12/22    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
MotoWorld II                          12/22   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
MotoWorld II                          12/24    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NHRA, POMONA (T)                      12/31    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, TUCSON (L)        01/08    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, TUCSON (L)          01/15    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NASCAR WINSTON WEST, TUCSON (L)       01/22    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30PM           TNN
IROC #1, DAYTONA                      02/15 (live coverage is unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)  :-)   :-)   02/19    tba              CBS
-------


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 17:11:09 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Misc
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 894

-> Dave Williams, if you feel like it, The contacts list could include

 Frank Evan Perdicaro, I'd be happy to.  

-> Auto-Rite Transmissions

 They should already be in the list.  I dunno about those guys - I wrote
twice asking for information on their Ford/T700 adapter and got no
reply, couldn't get anyone on the phone who knew anything, screw them.
TCI was happy enough to tell me more than I ever wanted to know about
their adapters.
                
[  Auto-Rite can be a bit cantakerous.  Too much success in a small
garage.  Sad to see.  They still do good work, and are not far from
me.  

I'd like to add "Little John" Buttera to the list.  He is close
to here, in Huntington Beach, but the phone book only lists his home
phone.  His catalog of part is small and expensive, but each one is 
a wonder.  I'll stop by the shop and get the proper address some time
soon.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 18:16:35 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: ftpmail
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1395

A note about the hotrod ftpmail service...

Lately there have been a few folks sending hard-to-digest messages to
the hotrod ftpmail server.  Hotrod ftpmail is a really simple thing, 
but it relies on two keywords.

Hotrod ftpmail has been around for a while and has been used hundreds
of times, but is not perfect.

First, the From: line is used to get a destination address.  If you
spoof your From: line ( like the folks on PCs seem to like to do )
your hotrod ftpmail will never return.  Be sure that the line is like
"From: cool_dude@xyz.com", not like "From: Joe Cool, user at xyz.com".

Second, those AOL names with spaces, percentage signs, backslashes
and other things probably will cause the dozen layers of shell scripts
to choke some places.  Keep it simple.

Third, it is the subject line, not the body text, that causes 
hotrod ftpmail to do useful things.  You can put anything you want in
the body, but I prefer nothing.  The Subject: line should be simple
like "Subject: hotrod ftpmail get engine-weights"  Complex statements
like "Subject: hotrod ftpmail send me a Z11 409" do not have the 
desired result.

The hotrod ftpmail server is activated randomly some time after I read
the hotrod messages.  It is not predictable, and may run a few times a
day, or a few times a week.

All you folks with weird names should re-submit your hotrod ftpmail,
but use simple names.

--FEP

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 20:03:53 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Mig vs. Tig (Miller's new one)
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Ol' Jim, Hisself" 
Content-Length: 1824

On Thu, 15 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> > I just recently learned by word-of-mouth that Miller has a new
> > TIG welder on the market.  At about $1000 it sounds like a honey.
> > Supposedly, it has current adjustable way down so that you can do
> > the little bitty stuff like brackets and not have trouble.  If
> > anyone learns more about this machine, please post.
> 
> Miller has an "ecno Tig" that doesn't seem to have water hook-up.  About the 
> size of a small flux wire welder.  Don't know about the price but I have the 
> brouchur at home.  I contacted Miller via a phone number in a recent Hot Rod 
> magazine.  Of the smaller Migs they carry a 130, 175 and 250 and 250MP.
> 
> 
In 1977, I bought a Miller Econo-twin HF.  This was a 10-150? Amp AC/DC 
welding box with a high frequency unit for TIG.  I used it to, among 
other things, repair stock auto gas tanks.

It still sits under my workbench, but I haven't fired it up in over 10 
years. Maybe next year.  

Miller no longer sells the Econo-twin HF, but there is a replacement for 
it.  I don't remember what they call it, or how much it costs?

Ol' Jim, hisself   
                                              V 
                            ^ ^             (o o)  
                            o o            (  V  )
 ****************************U***************m*m**************************
 **                                   *      VVV                        ** 
 **        Jim & Ana Wallace         and             Michel,            **
 **       hisself@digital.net         *       the Moluccan Cockatoo     **   
 **   wallace@tp628b.ksc.nasa.gov     *             who owns us         **
 **                                   *                                 **
 *************************************************************************   



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 20:08:08 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cadillac V8-6-4
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 949

Some years ago Cadillac introduced and quickly withdrew from the
market an engine which they called the V8-6-4.  It had the ability to
run on 8, 6, or 4 cylinders depending on the power output needed.

Does anybody know how they switched the cylinders on and off?  I
gather that it was some modification to the valve train but I
would like to know what they did and how it was controlled.

[ Whatever it was, it was not as good as it should have been.  I think
it was the Venerable Dave Williams that explained some aspects of
this earlier.  It was a fuel injected Olds motor, if I remember
correctly.  I always assumed that the 4-6-8 switching was in the
fuel system.  Try a Caddy junkyard.  --FEP ]

If they used some mechanism that changed the valve lift from
normal to 0 then I suspect that I might be able to modify such
a mechanism to get variable lift as a function of RPM in an
otherwise conventional engine.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 20:39:58 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Plasma Cutters (fwd)
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Cary McCallister 
Content-Length: 666

>I saw a demo of $1,000 plasma cutter at a Goodguys car show last summer.  It
>was amazing how fast it could zip cuts right through steel, aluminum and even
>stainless.  It was supposed to be able to cut through 1/4" steel.  I asked
>how thick of a piece of stainless steel could it cut through, and the guy
>said, "maybe about 3/16" with a little unsurety in his voice.  

How exactly does a plasma cutter work.  Is it just a high voltage DC power
supply and a special torch, or is there something more to them.  I have seen
a few at the local welding store.  They don't look much larger than my MIG.

Thanks for any answers, I'm really curious.

Cary McCallister


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Fri Dec 16 20:46:44 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Alternator woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 1366

(Derek Pietro writes:
>	Help me out on this one peoples. My car has an OEM wiring
>harness in it (69 chevelle) with the regulator connector jumpered
>for an internal regulator alternator. I have a cutoff switch on the
>rear deck of the car. If the car is running, and I turn the cutoff
>switch OFF, the car continues to run, albeit poorly. The interior
>light flickers badly (if it is on) and the car idles very badly.
>The purpose of the cutoff switch is to stop all function of the 
>car, as per NHRA rule book, right? Ok, the car is mechanical FI, so 
>somehow ignition is maintained (an alternator is self sustaining, 
>right?) and as long as the FI pump has fuel, the engine will 
>continue to run. Having a 2 gallon surge tank for the FI, this means
>the car could run for a while.


This stirs some old and vague memories.  I recall that some electronic
ignitions had this same problem, and that the fix was adding a diode
in series with one of the low current wires involved with the
alternator wiring.  Maybe it was in series with the idiot light
for the alternator.  Sorry I can't do any better than that right now.

I strongly suggest that you don't let the engine run badly with your
safety switch off - you can have very high voltage spikes present
under these conditions and you might damage any electronics in the
car.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 15:12:10 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Alternator woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: "Ol' Jim, Hisself" 
Content-Length: 969

Try putting a diode in the ammeter conection at the alternator.  That is 
the smaller (black) wire of the two coming from the plug on the back.

What happens is you are backfeeding the ignition from the field coil of 
the alternator, and bypassing the switches.

Ol' Jim, hisself   
                                              V 
                            ^ ^             (o o)  
                            o o            (  V  )
 ****************************U***************m*m**************************
 **                                   *      VVV                        ** 
 **        Jim & Ana Wallace         and             Michel,            **
 **       hisself@digital.net         *       the Moluccan Cockatoo     **   
 **   wallace@tp628b.ksc.nasa.gov     *             who owns us         **
 **                                   *                                 **
 *************************************************************************   



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 15:31:33 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Alternator woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 304

 If the CR is high enough and head temps hot enough, eliminating spark won't
even suffice. What you may need is both a spark kill and a idle stop solenoid
like is found on later cars, where a plunger sets up the throttle position
when activated but when power is off, the butterflies are fully closed. 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 15:38:16 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Reworking Lead Jobs
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X-From: Tom Carver 
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Does anyone have any experience with reworking old lead on fenders?
My '31 Plymouth has about ten pounds of lead on the front fender.  It looks
like the steel is somehow starting to rust between the lead and the fender
and the huge slab of lead is starting to come off.  For such an old car, the
steel's in pretty great shape -- only a little surface rust. 

I'd really like to just remove the lead and see if I can rework the steel
straight with a hammer and dolly (do the job right).  Do you think I could
just heat up the lead with a torch slowly until it all balls up and rolls
off.  I'm pretty sure it won't stick to surface rust without a flux, but I
guess I'll still have a large area of "tinned" steel where it's still
sticking well.  I've never done it before, but it seems like it would be a
hassle trying to do bondo over lead and be able to sand it well.  The lead's
so soft, won't it get all gouged up when I try to block sand it?  Or, should
I be using some sort of body file?

Thanks for any tips,
Tom


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 15:40:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cylinder Glaze Begone!
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I raced motorcycles years and every Sunday after the races were over, we
would dump the remaining pre-mix in our vans gas tanks, aprox. 2-4 gallons
each week. It seemed to be a great top oiler. Never had to tear down my motor
so no proof on your miracle discovery, but the 360 Dodge seemed to not mind
at all.                            
                                Dennis


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:01:54 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cylinder Glaze Begone!
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
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-> way to the filling station where I filled up.  A couple of days went
-> by before I realized that the engine had stopped smoking!

 Glazing is one case where some of the miracle products on the snake oil
shelf might actually help.  Or a can of premix, as you found out.
  Hosing some water down the intake will also help some.

 Glazing is usually caused by overheating, just like what happened to
you.  The cylinder walls get quite hot, and burn the oil coating into a
slick, hard, brownish spooge.  Glaze, in other words.  The stuff is
plenty hard, and it's not really practical to try to wear through it by
continuing to drive.

 Back inna old days, like the 1950s, glazing was common enough to
require periodic "re-ring" jobs.  There was usually nothing wrong with
the rings, it was the hone that did the trick.  Old timey motor oils
weren't much, and they'd glaze up if you looked at them hard.

 The major characteristics of glazing are smoking, high oil consumption,
and compression leaks around the rings.
                                                              


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:13:49 1994
From: dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:43:02 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac V8-6-4
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X-From: Jim Davies 
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On Fri, 16 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> Some years ago Cadillac introduced and quickly withdrew from the
> market an engine which they called the V8-6-4.  It had the ability to
> run on 8, 6, or 4 cylinders depending on the power output needed.
> 
> Does anybody know how they switched the cylinders on and off?  I
> gather that it was some modification to the valve train but I
> would like to know what they did and how it was controlled.
> 
> [ Whatever it was, it was not as good as it should have been. 

Ford also had a similar mod of the 302 for a *short* while. Never 
actually saw one, but read about it. It worked in the same way as the caddy.
There were modified rocker arm pivots. These had two positions, all the 
way down, and all the way up, controlled electrically. When the cylinder 
was switched off, the pivot was pulled up, eliminating the transfer of 
motion thru the rocker arm, therefor the valve stayed closed. Cant 
remember now whether it was both intake and exhaust or only one, but it 
seems to me it was both. Anyone who has ever adjusted the lifters on a 
running SBC will be able to see how this system worked. It didnt last 
long in production. I wonder if they fired Walt Disney for designing it ;>
BTW, I think the caddy engine was a caddy, not an olds.

Jim Davies



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:44:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac V8-6-4
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On Fri, 16 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> Some years ago Cadillac introduced and quickly withdrew from the
> market an engine which they called the V8-6-4.  It had the ability to
> run on 8, 6, or 4 cylinders depending on the power output needed.
> 
> Does anybody know how they switched the cylinders on and off?  I
> gather that it was some modification to the valve train but I
> would like to know what they did and how it was controlled.
> 
> [ Whatever it was, it was not as good as it should have been.  I think
> it was the Venerable Dave Williams that explained some aspects of
> this earlier.  It was a fuel injected Olds motor, if I remember
> correctly.  I always assumed that the 4-6-8 switching was in the
> fuel system.  Try a Caddy junkyard.  --FEP ]
> 
> If they used some mechanism that changed the valve lift from
> normal to 0 then I suspect that I might be able to modify such
> a mechanism to get variable lift as a function of RPM in an
> otherwise conventional engine.
> 
> Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com
> 
> 
  Bob,
I do not exactly know whether they went to exhaust open always (I would 
assume they did as the compression of 2 or 4 cyl's not firing would be 
very "lossy" to hp and fuel mileage..) but it was solenoids on the 
rockers of the chosen cyl's.  The motor's manuals have a good explanation 
and photo's.
Later,
Dave



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:52:15 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Alternator woes
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On Thu, 15 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> [ I am going to take a few gueses here.  If the car is in a
> steady-state running condition, with mechanical fuel injecttion, it
> will get air and fuel as long as it turns.  You want to positivly
> eliminate spark.
> 
> With the alternator turning, it is producing power.  Disconnecting
> it from the battery via a ground switch does not stop it from
> producing power.  The field is still energized by the power being 
> produced by the armature, and the field is still grounded in the 
> case.  The power produced by the alternator is no longer smoothed
> out by the battery, and would likely consist of rectified three
> phase ( with a typical pully setup, I think that would be 12*RPM 
> ripple DC ), plus any harmonics and noise that the alternator makes.
> This type of power is not good for constant voltage devices like
> transistorized ignition.  Hence the ability to run, but badly.
> 
> What to do?  You could either positivly collapse the field in the 
> alternator, or remove power to your coil with a single pull double
> through switch of some sort.  One leg would be the ground of the 
> battery, one would be either of the others ( alternator field or
> coil power ).
> 
> I think that to collapse the field on a 69 Chevelle, you simply need 
> to ground the wire that runs from the alternator to the idiot light.
> I may be wrong.  Anybody?
> 

     What is happening, is the alternator is still supplying power to the 
ignition.  Your cutoff should be between the battery and the rest of the 
system, but the harness pulls ignition power from the positive cable at 
the starter.  The alternator output is here as well.  Your best bet and 
easiest way to eliminate this run on would be to remove the output wire 
from the alternator.  Make a 10guage wire to go from the positive battery 
terminal to the alternator.  This way, when you shut off the cut-off, all 
power is removed from the system, even the residual in the alternator.
Later,
Dave Cooley
cooldave@nando.net



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:56:14 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Alternator woes
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X-From: kking@io.com (kenneth c king)
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greetings:
  you don't mention this, but i'm used to seeing this kind of problem
with an electric fan in the loop (ie it becones a generator as it spins
down).  if this isn't a part of the problem, the nevermind...  our
distinguished moderator seems to have covered most all the other bases...

later,
kc


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 16:58:46 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cadillac V8-6-4
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
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-> Does anybody know how they switched the cylinders on and off?  I
-> gather that it was some modification to the valve train but I
-> would like to know what they did and how it was controlled.

 Let's see, I think I have some notes on that:

Eaton had demonstrated a five-way V8 in 1977, selecting 4,5,6,7,or 8
cylinders as required.  The system used solenoids which moved the
rocker pivots, disabling the valves.

Cadillac's V8-6-4 used the mechanism designed by Eaton, went into
service in 1981.  Original designs were a V8-6, not 4.  Cadillac
claimed 40% saving at idle, 25 at low speed cruise, 15% at highway
cruise.

The V8-6-4 had indicator lights on dash to show what mode it was
running in Solenoids shut down exhaust valves. Cylinders #1 and #4
shut down first, then #6 and #7 The modulated displacement was
standard on all 368 cid engines, or 60% of Cadillac production for
1981.  (others were Olds Diesel and Cad V6) The engine runs on 8
cylinders up to 27mph, during acceleration.  It would drop to 4 cyl
mode at 55mph cruise. Coastdown braking in V4 mode was negligible;
shifted back into V8 mode at 27mph to give extra engine braking

One of the Cadillac engineers interviewed for PS said, "Cadillac does
not see the variable displacement concept working in small engines.
The 368 cid V8 for the Cadillac - the biggest displacement engine
available in any American car - works fine because it never really
taps its full power potential.  In smaller engines, there is less
margin to tap, so there's less gain in fuel economy.  The use of
variable displacement in trucks that run lightly loaded much of the
time is a natural..."

Some home-market Mitsubishi Galants used a system called MIVEC which
was basically the same as the Eaton.  Ford had experimented with the
Eaton system in 300-6 trucks, then decided not to pursue it. Some
Chevrolet trucks with the 292 six were shipped with the modular
displacement system. Alfa Romeo demonstrated their CEM modular
displacement system (Controllo Elettronico Motore) in a taxi fleet a
few years ago, a 4-2 system.  It wasn't put into production as far as
I know. The Honda V-TEC is a conceptual variant of the Eaton modular
displacement idea.


-> [ Whatever it was, it was not as good as it should have been.  I
-> think it was the Venerable Dave Williams that explained some aspects

 I know nossing.  Nossing.

 There was nothing really wrong with the Eaton system.  It performed
well in the V6 and inline sixes.  The problem was in the electronics
in the V8 version, which was all old analog stuff and apparently neither
well designed nor well constructed.  When functioning properly they did
darned good; they just didn't function properly for long.

 To the best of my knowledge there was never any problem with the actual
lost motion mechanism, just the V8 controllers.

 As for the class-action lawsuit against Cadillac... need I mention the
X-car brake suit, the GM C-K pickup gas tank suit, the exploding Pinto
suit, the Porsches-handle-bad suit, the "what's an Olds engine doing
in my Chevy?" suit, and others where the courts found for the plaintiffs
despite clear and verifiable evidence the cases were frivolous.

 If you look at the V8-6-4 schematic you'll see that the entire system
could be disabled by simply undoing the connectors at the valve covers.
Presto, a plain old 368 Cadillac.  Which Cadillac did, but that didn't
make their customers happy after the media and ambulance chaser lawyers
got them stirred up.  


 Of course, I'm the guy who thinks the Olds Diesel engines are neat,
too.
                                                                         


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 17:05:50 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Spark Knock
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A very common cause of spark knock is a inoperative EGR valve. If it were
stuck closed you would get a lean mixture causing it to ping (Spark Knock).
It sounds like the guys at Quality Tune would have checked it out but who
knows. Just cause it to open manually either with your finger or with a
vacumm pump and the idle should stumble slightly. If not you goy either a bad
EGR valve or a plugged port in the manifold not, likely if it was just
rebuilt though probably it was hot tanked and completed cleaned.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 17:24:16 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Misc
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 1618


-> I'd like to add "Little John" Buttera to the list.  He is close to
-> here, in Huntington Beach, but the phone book only lists his home

 John was in the list, but the last address I found for him was in
1974!  I figured there was a good chance he'd moved in 21 years.  I'd be
happy to add his current address in there.

 I'm also looking for addresses for auto illustrators, Kenny Youngblood
in particular.  I have some in the list, but they're all Brits.


 Back 8 or 10 years ago Youngblood drew a "street rod" for Hot Rod
Magazine, one of several concept car illustrations in the article.
The car reminded me a bit of Chrisman's mid-engined Hemi T-bucket car,
which I haven't seen in ages.  Anyway, it was a tube framed, mid engine
job, blown big block, open wheels, with a simple bent-aluminum body,
something you could do in a press brake with some radius dies.  Gull
wing doors, wings, etc.  Looked like a cross between a '60s F1 car and a
'60s Can Am car, with the blower scoop sticking up over the roll bar.
Youngblood called for brushed aluminum for the finish, not paint.

 I made an enlargement of that drawing and tacked it to the wall.  It's
a strong temptation.  I've been collecting parts for my scratchbuilt
track car for a year or so; practically everything I have so far would
work if I built something like the drawing.  On the other hand, the
Youngblood car could never be a daily driver, which was what I was sort
of planning for the other car.  I *hate* jumping tracks in the middle of
a project, but the Youngblood sketch is so incredibly *tuff* looking...
                               


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 17:26:52 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: List info, etc.
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1689


List Info:
A few more months have been added to the list of available digests of
this forum.    July through December of 1993 are now in digest form in 
the hotrod ftpmail server.  Some of these files are BIG, text files. 
I'll take suggestions on how to best make smaller versions available.

I have tried compress, then uuencode.  Not worth the trouble.

All this stuff is available on an outgoing ftp ( real ftp ) basis for
those in dire need.  Email me for details.


For a period around Christmas I may not be looking at the list.  I will
try and call in, but may not get to it.


Etc: Chevelle notes
I have prooven that carefully applied epoxy and tee nuts will not be
of any assistance in pulling dents out of SBC oil pans.  Grrr.

I will probably try to braze a nut on tonight.  Does anybody have an
idea how hot I can get the front main seal without completely killing
it?  On a related note, just how likely is it that I will have to
clean and replace all gaskets when I remove this still-new oil pan?
I have a feeling it is 100% likely, so I have no problem trying to
braze with the pan in place -- if I remove it OR toast the seals I 
still have to replace the RPS, FPS, and gasket.

I plan to try to eliminate or reduce oil flash problems by using my 
kegging setup's CO2 cylinder ( about 30 lbs ) to flush CO2 down the 
dip stick tube, using my ShopVac to exhaust out the PCV or oil filler.
Does anybody see any logic errors here?  

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 19:12:58 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: 5.O BELT
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X-From: RPHIII@aol.com
Content-Length: 187

Does anyone know the length of a shortened '85 Ford 5.0 serpentine belt to
bypass the smog pump?  My pump is chirping, and hasn't been in use for quite
some time anyhow.

Thanks,

Rich.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 19:35:05 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Vintage Chev. Parts
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X-From: ChrisD1936@aol.com
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Does any one know a good place for vintage Chevrolet parts. Needed
windshield wiper motor with washer pump for 1965 Chev. Blair.  
                                 Thanks  ChrisD1936@aol.com

[ You are in the right place.  OPGI, down the street in Huntington
Beach, only sells many parts for A Body GM.  1-800-Chevelle.  Danchuck,
right down the street here in Santa Ana, has branched out from 
Chevy 55-6-7 cars, and now does A Body, too. 714-751-1957.  Also good
is something like "Original Chevy Parts", a few miles away in Fullerton.  
They were the only place that could supply me with a new cancel cam,
and are a clearinghouse for used West Coast A Body stuff.  I do not
have the number handy.  I could look it up, but cannot find the
catalog right now.   The full size cars probably used the same washer
stuff as the A Body cars.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Mon Dec 19 19:38:39 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: cross drilling and stuff
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 2763


 I'm building a half inch stroker 302 Ford.  It uses a cut-down 351
Cleveland crank, 2300 Pinto rods, and Keith Black pistons for a 350
Chevy with 6 inch rods.

 Progress has been slow since it's a no-money buildup, but I have the
crank mostly done and it's been trial-fitted to the block, the
reciprocating stack is verified, and suchlike.  I've been detailing my
progress over in the Fordnatics mailing list.

 One of the moderately hot topics of discussion has been oiling.  I've
been planning to crossdrill and cut oil lead-in "scoops" as detailed in
GM's Chevy Power manual.  VW also used the scoops on '70-up flat fours.
GM recommends it for all fours, V6s, and the small block, but not the
big block, for some reason.  One reason I want to add the scoops is that
the main oil holes have walked off to the sides of the mains.  That's
because the holes are drilled at an angle from the main, through the
cheek, and over to the rod throws.  Cutting the 351C down to 302
requires removing half an inch of metal.

 Today I had the crank up on the bench along with a 350 Chevy crank,
looking at how the oil holes are done between the two cranks.  The
cranks are twisted the same way, which makes it easy to compare.

 It instantly became apparent that the drillings were different between
the Ford and the Chevy.  There are two ways to drill - to the left, or
to the right.  Ford goes left, Chevy right.  As the oil holes intersect
their respective journals, one way would bend the oil path through a
relatively mild angle and into the crank oilways.  The other way would
require the oil to make an acute turn "backward" against the rotation of
the crank.

 After a moment of head-scratching I popped the hood on my '60 and
looked at the fan.  The engine rotates left.  (SAE standards specify
rotation as seen from the driver's seat, not looking from the front).

 The Ford crank's drillings look close to optimal.  The Chevy crank is,
well, I won't say it's "wrong", but now I know why Callies and Crower
make a big deal of their revised oil drillings.

 In both the Ford and the Chevy, the cranks run on plain bearings on the
bottom, grooved bearings on the top.  The crank oilways only receive oil
during 180 degrees at best.  Since the crank is bent in 90 degree
intervals, the drillings on the main journals are 90 degrees apart.
This means the two rod journals receive full pressure for only 90
degrees, half pressure (shared with the other throw) for 90 degrees.

 Since the drillings are 90 degrees apart, you need two crossdrill
holes, not one.  This shouldn't weaken a crank enough to notice, but
it's an annoyance to drill and keep it straight.
                                                                                                       


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 15:23:38 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Measuring coolant flow
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X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 4248

 First off, glad to see the hotrod list back online! Just found out last week.

My question is this: How do you know when you have optimal coolant flow?

My setup is this: 2 half inch lines coming out of the front of the intake
manifold into a box which has the filler cap on it. Out of this box is a 1 5/8"
radiator hose into the top of the radiator. Then a 2 1/2" hose out of the 
opposite side of the radiator into the water pump.
 The radiator is a 4 row (27" x 19"), the biggest I could fit into the nose
of the car.

[ A few points.  
Are you saying that the only cooling you have is those two half-inch 
lines?  That is less than one half inch of total cross section, and is far 
too small.  More is better.

   Our esteemed former moderator did a test of radiators.  Some therory
is helpful here, but I'll skip it.  The thing to remember is that you
need to move heat from the raditator surface to the air, and to do
that you want airflow through the radiator.   John's test showed that
the pressure drop across a 4 row was way too high for his application,
actually producing LESS airflow, and LESS cooling.  You may find that
a 3 row is better.  The test is easy if you have a differential
manometer, like the one on the floor next to me.  If I remember, one
could also use a Chrysler MAP after you did a static calibration on
it.
   How are you getting air to the radiator?  Do you have a fan shroud
and a mechanical fan?  
   Electric fans are a complex area, much more so than you might
think.  You would not expect an aircraft wing to produce the same lift
characteristics if flown backward; you should not expect a pusher
electric fan to work well when put on the other side of the radiator
and run it backward.  If you use pusher and puller fans, remember that the
air is changed by running through a hot body.  It expands.  Use a
larger volume puller than you have for a pusher.  
   Personally, I run dual puller electric fans on dual thermostatic 
controls.  Each also has a manual override on the dash.  I know that
the super heavy duty cooling in a new 454 1 ton uses a mehanical 
puller fan with dual thermostat electric pusher fans.
   How are you venting your hot air?  Closed hood?  Not good.  My 
Chevelle has hood offsets to promote laminar flow out the hood and 
over the body at speed.  These are easy to configure and test using
coat hangers and strips cut from Doritos bags as flow indicators.

   Oil coolers are good, but so is good instrumentation.  Check inlet
and outlet temperature on the radiator, and the oil cooler.

   I could go on and on, but I'll let others do that.  There was a 
good article by Kevin Cameron in Cycle a while back.  I know that is
rather vague, but try and find it.  He points out that good radiator
design is easy, but the construction is really hard.  A well designed,
well constructed radiator will produce thrust as it is run through
the cold air!  I know of only two of those ever built....  --FEP ]

 The car ran hot! Worst yet, would not cool down. Within 15-20 minutes of 
driving the engine would get up around 240-260 degrees and still climbing! I
figured not enough coolant flow, so I removed the thermostat. This helped
but by only extending the time it took to heat up. Maybe 30-40 minutes.

To try to combat the heat I will be using 2 more half inch lines out of the 
back of the intake manifold and will be running these into an auxillary
radiator(3 row 20" x 14"). The output from this radiator will be picked up
by the "heater hose" connection on the water pump. I will also be adding
an oil cooler as well.

So before I get into this expensive addition, how can I be sure that my old
configuration was flowing at it's optimal rate and was doing all the work that
it could do?? If it was not, could I just run the 2 half inch lines from the
back of the intake manifold into the current radiator I do have?

 The engine, by the way is a 671 super charged small block chevy that produces
ALOT of heat!!!

Thanks for any help/tips!!!

Mark.

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 15:57:23 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Chevelle oil pan
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: jca@fibercom.fibercom.com (James C. Akers)
Content-Length: 1264

Our list owner writes:
>Etc: Chevelle notes
>I have prooven that carefully applied epoxy and tee nuts will not be
>of any assistance in pulling dents out of SBC oil pans.  Grrr.

Frank,
  Before you pull the pan off, you should seriously consider
what someone already suggested:  there is a really nifty
bodyworking tool that literally spot-welds a rivet-looking
thing onto a panel.  You then take a puller that clamps down
onto the "rivet" and you can pull the dent out.  I have used
one of these and I must say they work wonderfully.  The weld
is cold enough not to warp body sheet metal, yet the rivet is
on there so good that you literally have to grind it off.

The down side is that the tool is bulky- i.e. you will need
to put your car on a lift.  If it were me- I would much prefer
renting the tool AND some lift time over having to drop the
pan and risk a shitty oil leak.  (Hell, you can probably stop
by your local vocational school and use their tool and 
facilities for free...)

If you need more suggestions as far as technique for using
this groovy tool, let me know...

jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 15:59:47 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Oil flash- pan dents
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: khamar@mailhost.tcs.tulane.edu (Kyle Hamar)
Content-Length: 1060

>I'll take suggestions on how to best make smaller versions available.
did you try gzip?

>I have prooven that carefully applied epoxy and tee nuts will not be
>of any assistance in pulling dents out of SBC oil pans. 
I will assume that the epoxy is peeling off the pan. Did you try to roughen
the pan? I would suggest you hit it with a wire wheel, then epoxy to the
rough surface.

>I plan to try to eliminate or reduce oil flash problems by using my 
>kegging setup's CO2 cylinder ( about 30 lbs ) to flush CO2 down the 
>dip stick tube, using my ShopVac to exhaust out the PCV or oil filler.
>Does anybody see any logic errors here?  

Do not use the ShopVac. The best solution is to partially pressurize the
case with an inert gas (N2, Ar, etc.) He or Ne would work but are not as
cheap as Ar. Your CO2 will work fine. 

Good luck.
--------------------------------------------------
Kyle Hamar
Tulane University Department of Chemistry
(504) 862-8997 office, (504) 737-5801 home
khamar@mailhost.tcs.tulane.edu  http://ram.chem.tulane.edu:8080/kbh.html





From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 16:00:27 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Cadillac V8-6-4
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Content-Length: 323


-> Ford also had a similar mod of the 302 for a *short* while.

 Not that I've ever come across.  Ford did a *lot* of talking about
their modular displacement 300 six, but they never actually put it in
production.  If they even considered doing the 302, they were pretty
quiet about it.
                                 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 16:42:41 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Caddy 500 Q&A
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: MBOSSARD@PTD.intel.com
Content-Length: 1459

From fmrco!fmrco.com!gregg@uunet.uu.net  Wed Dec 14 12:47:31 1994
Subject: More Caddy 500 Questions

->Has anyone done any work with the Caddy Fuel Injection system on the
->500?  Is it the same as other GM FI?  Is it reliable?  My trusty (gag)
->Chilton's manual lists it as an option on 75 and 76 500's.  Do any of
->the after market FI Wonder chip Programmers do custom work, such as
->this unit??

It sounds like you're thinking about the same thing that I am.  As far as the
75/76 EFI setup, it uses an analog computer, which basically means that
it does not use a memory chip to store fuel map and other data.  Best bet on
this would be to chuck the electronics, but keep the intake/injectors/throttle
body and use an aftermarket or homebrew computer.

->[ I have wondered just how they did Cadzilla, and just what fuel
->system is used on the Presidential Limos, the last remaining use of
->big Caddy motors.
->
->I imagine that the recently developed, wickedly expensive ACCEL EFI
->for big block Chevy could be modified to work.  You might be better
->starting from scratch, though.   Have fun.  --FEP ]

I'm pretty darn certain that the bitchin' Cadzilla uses a stock manifold with 
Holley Projection.  As for the limos, does that mean they still manufacture new 
motors for these too?

For anyone whose interested in homebrew fuel injections systems, check out
DIY_EFI list.  For help, Send "help" to Majordomo@coulomb.eng.ohio-state.edu. 

matt



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 16:52:20 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Fwd: MIG welders
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: AllPorsche@aol.com
Content-Length: 2151

Friends, since I did not get a response to the original mailing, I am looking
for people who may be able to give me advice.
Thanks,
Bart (AllPorsche@aol.com)
---------------------
Forwarded message:
Subj:    MIG welders
Date:    94-12-16 21:57:31 EST
From:    AllPorsche
To:      porschephiles@tta.com
CC:      AllPorsche

P-philers,

Recently some members were inquiring about MIG welders.
Since I am in the market I have been looking at low cost Lincoln and Century.
I do like HTP but they are really in the higher price range. Today I received
a flyer from Daytona MIG, representing Cebora, an italian made welder sold
renamed by Matco and Snap-On. (1-800-331-9353). They have some pretty good
prices:

Pocket MIG 110A/115V................................$329 (24 Gauge to 1/4"
steel, 1/8" aluminum)
Pocket Turbo 130A/115V..............................$445 (24            
 5/16"          3/16"            )
Revolution Combi (MIG+gasless)130A/115V...$484.(24              5/16"       
  3/16"            )
MIG 140 140A/115V.....................................$584 (24
             3/8"            1/4"              )

They currently have a special if you buy a welder and plasma cutter (Pocket
Plasma 30A/115V - 25A output - cuts steel up to 3/16"). The package includes
a full 40CF gas cylinder, single gauge regulator, welding helmet, a welding
cart to fit both units, and leather welding gloves. Prices are as follows:

With Pocket MIG..........................................$884
        Pocket Turbo....................................... $974
        Combi..................................................$1055
        MIG 140...............................................$1124

Does anyone have any experience with this equipment ?(or under the
Matco-Snap-On brand)
Is it really helpful to have gasless capability ? (If gasless is so good, why
do MIGs still exist ?)
For automotive restoration work (primarily sheet metal) and some "around the
house" work is 130A a good compromise ?
Are these indeed good prices ?

Any comments are welcome, especially from seasoned restores and welding master
s among you !

Bart (AllPorsche@aol.com)


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 16:57:50 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Glaze begone
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 847

During High school and a couple years into college I worked at a Country Club 
on course maintenance.  One day we ran out of gas on the back side of the golf 
course.  My manager only had mixed gas with him (for weed eaters etc.)  So he 
poured that in.  We made it about 1/2 way back when the engine leaned out.  
Seems there was some sediment or something that didn't agree with the fuel 
system.  Fortunately the carberator's filter caught it.  Even after removeing 
the gas tank, blowing out all the fuel lines, we never got it run more than a 
week before the filter had to be removed and cleaned....

Just a warning - if your unsure how long the mixed gas was sitting around - not 
to mention it is normally used around chain saws and weed eaters, not the 
cleanest enviroment - you may want to filter it before putting in your tank.

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 17:27:58 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: re:alternator woes
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 324

	MUCH responce to that one from both groups. Thanks to you 
all. After I rewire the alternator hot to the battery side of the 
cutoff switch I'll look out for the fan drive acting as a generator
as someone suggested. 
Again, thanks all.
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 18:05:58 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Pan braze
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
Content-Length: 1510

Well, I did it.  The pan braze and pull went ok.  No fires, explosions, etc.

Before starting, I setup a CO2 flush, skipping the active exhaust.
With my fire bottle at the ready, I picked up the T6 tip, put it in
the torch and went at it.  It was quickly apparent that the stock 
I had been practicing on was much thicker than the pan, because the 
tip I had chosen brought a fist size area of the pan up to glowing
orange heat in about 15-20 seconds!  Add Weller #2 rod, a few more
seconds, and it was all done.  I hit the OFF button on the torch
and began to look for smoke.

I found a very strange sort of smoke.  The CO2 flush was running
through a small regualtor at about 80% of the regulator's capacity.
As a result, the CO2 was VERY cold.  The cold gas was mixing with 
the combustion products in the pan, and being driven out the driver's
side oil filler hole.  Out the hole came a very cold smoke mixture
which literally poured down the engine on to the floor.  Sort of like
a 1 1/4" low pressure oil flow.  I let the gas run a few more minutes
and shut it off.

The pan pulling was very simple, as I had made the correct jig and 
measurements when trying the epoxy fix.  It took about 30 seconds.
A quick wire brushing and priming and it is ready for paint.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
inhouse: frank@server, x210		      Santa Ana CA
outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 21:05:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re:  Chevelle oil pan
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Johanson, Al" 
Content-Length: 902


>  Before you pull the pan off, you should seriously consider
>what someone already suggested:  there is a really nifty
>bodyworking tool that literally spot-welds a rivet-looking
>thing onto a panel.  You then take a puller that clamps down
>onto the "rivet" and you can pull the dent out.  I have used
>one of these and I must say they work wonderfully.  The weld
>is cold enough not to warp body sheet metal, yet the rivet is
>on there so good that you literally have to grind it off.

It's called a "pin welder".  I've used it before to fix a dent in
a Porsche muffler (didn't want to spend $500 for a new one!).
I used a large standard dent puller to clamp onto the pin
to reef on it.

It works well.  Great for fixing dented rocker panels where
you can't get in there to bash out the dent from behind or
if you don't want to drill holes for "conventional" pull rods.

Allan




From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 21:15:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Introduction + 1988 or newer small block recommendation
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Hewson, Dave" 
Content-Length: 1591


Hi there!

I joined the list a short while ago, and I'm looking for feedback on ideas I 
have for my current project car;

I am building a replica of an Anniversary Edition Lamborgini Countach, based 
on a Fiero donor car (I'll save the details for the kitcar mailing list, 
unless someone asks); Using a fiero as a starting point saves me a lot of 
time and money compared to building up a rolling chassis from  scratch; the 
car will not be a show car or drag racer, but I want lots of bottom end 
torque that just isn't there with the small V-6;

So...

I want to use a GM small-block for power, and with my limited budget and 
local smog laws ('88 or better tailpipe emissions, no visual inspection) it 
looks like I will probably go with the newest/best-condition '88 or later 
F-body 5.0L or 5.7L block from a local wrecker;

Should I stay away from the 5.0? TBI or TPI? JTR's book on GM small-block 
swaps recommends TBI for cost and complexity; it also mentions the Corvette 
engines don't lend themselves to engine swaps as easily as the camaro 
engines; I really want the "look" of the TPI and if the 5.7L has only a 
small price/fuel economy penalty, I'd like to go for it;

I haven't seen many swaps done with the 4.5L and 4.9L (pushrod) aluminum 
block V-8's; I know these engines don't rev high but they should be lighter 
(better?); I have noticed that the aftermarket have not offered high 
performance upgrades for these engines; the overhead cam engines are just 
too expensive right now; maybe for my *next* project...

Any comments would be appreciated.

Thanks

DaveH


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 21:44:13 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: kking@io.com (kenneth c king)
Content-Length: 1768

greetings:
  i have to second the moderator's comment about 2 (quantity) 1/2" 
(diameter) hoses to drain the block seems a bit small.  did you
fail to mention a return hose somewhere (ie the 1/2" hoses are just
'burp' lines, to remove air bubbles) ?  it would seem obvious that
you'd want about the same size hose going into the engine as comming
out of it (or vice versa, in this case).  please clarify.
  to the moderator - i can't picture the hood configuration on a 
chevelle...  my project is a chevy nova.  it's hood ends short of the
windshield, at a plate that attaches to the horizontal part at the
top of the firewall, climbs to hood-height, then goes back to the 
windshield.  the top of the part is slotted for air, but i'm not 
sure if it would be safe (or what i would mess up that is using the
air) to zap holes in the firewall side of the plate to let some of
the air out there?  other than taking the fake shark-gills off the 
front quarters & replacing them with (what, a hole, grill, pressure
sensitive (spring loaded) flaps,...?), how else can i get air out?

later,
kc

[ My Chevelle setup is as simple as simple can get.  The idea is to lift
the back of the hood so air has a chance to get out.  I used carfully
cut 2x2 aluminum tube between the hinges and the hood.  My wife thinks
it is terribly ugly, as if the hood does not fit.  The hood does not
meet the fresh air intake area at the base of the windsheild.

I first saw this in HRM.  Big Red, the 230mph '68 Firebird has a hood
setup very similar to mine.  I have subsequently seen it in a few other 
cars.  This may not be for you, especially if you ever expect to drive
where it is wet or snowy or cold.  None of that applies here in SoCal.

Do not cut holes in the firewall!  --FEP  ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Tue Dec 20 21:49:01 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 2435


>My question is this: How do you know when you have optimal coolant flow?

Simple:
Measure the temperature at the hot side of the radiator and at the cool side.

The cool side is your engine inlet size.  If the cool side is running too hot 
then either you are running the water too fast through the radiator or the 
radiator is inadaquate.  If the cool side is cool (more in line where you want 
it) then you may be running the water too slow.

Look for a temperature drop from the hot side to the cool side.  Make sure your 
fans are operating or the car is at speed (above 35mph).

>[ A few points.  
>Are you saying that the only cooling you have is those two half-inch 
>lines?  That is less than one half inch of total cross section, and is far 
>too small.  More is better.

I'm sure they make kits to get a normal top radiator hose... - and thermostat.
You will have to check the motor for blown head gaskets - look for bubbles in 
the radiator.  Some blown head gaskets are only readily appearant when the 
engine is hot.

>   How are you getting air to the radiator?  Do you have a fan shroud
>and a mechanical fan?  

Without a fan shroud the fan must be mounted about 1/2" away from the radiator. 
 But becareful, a friend though if 1/2" is good 1/4" is better.  Under hard 
acceleration there was enough give to put a nice polished brass 4-core radiator 
into the fan...

Also, on some modern body styles not enough air can get through the grill - 
this requires that thin black "spoiler" to redirect air from under the car and 
force it through the radiators.


>To try to combat the heat I will be using 2 more half inch lines out of the 
>back of the intake manifold and will be running these into an auxillary
>radiator(3 row 20" x 14"). The output from this radiator will be picked up
>by the "heater hose" connection on the water pump. I will also be adding
>an oil cooler as well.

Wait a minute - your using AN-8 lines to cool the motor?  If you restrict the 
outlet of the engine the water will recirculate through the motor.  This will 
really bring the temperature up.  Which intake manifold are you using?  What 
kind of provisions does it have for a thermostat?  From my catalogs both the 
wieand street supercharger and the B&M Megablower have standard stock 
thermostats (although mounted sideways).  Could you have the wrong manifold?  
Summit catalof mentions the Wieand manifold is redesigned.  

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 14:48:49 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 2744

I thought that I would pass along a couple of personal misfortunes
in the hopes of sparing others the same problems.

A few months ago I bought a set of SBC rocker arms from Summit
(their own house brand).  When I was installing these I noticed
that one of the rockers was way off center from the top of the
valve.  I couldn't see anything obviously wrong so I took that
rocker arm off and installed a different one.  It was still off,
but not nearly as bad.  A couple of other arms were tried and
showed conclusively that they are all different, and that I can't
trust any of them.  I recommend avoiding this product.

A couple of weeks ago I decided to replace my old and tired Delco
battery which had given faithful service until I ran it down all
the way; that's really hard on a standard car battery and it was
totally my fault.  Checking around for a new one revealed that
Pep Boys had in stock a battery that would fit the battery tray
and had higher ratings than the old one.  I bought one of those
and installed it.  It didn't seem to be as strong as the old Delco
but I figured that there might be some kind of a break-in needed
so I kept running it.  Instead of getting better, it got worse.
Last weekend it couldn't turn the engine against normal compression
and I couldn't get the engine started.  I replaced this battery
with one from Kragen and now my starter sounds like it used to.
I don't know if I just happened across a bad battery or if all the
Pep Boys batteries are poor.  In either case, I can't recommend
Pep Boys batteries.

A few months ago I needed some replacement heads for a SBC in a
hurry so I bought some World Products replacement heads with
hardened valve seats.  I was quite disappointed at the condition
of the "drop in" heads - there were lots of sharp edges from the
machining of the valve guides, and the casting surfaces (the
intake and exhaust passages) were very rough.  I had the heads
worked over, installed the valves and springs, and put the engine
together.  It smoked.  It smoked a lot.  After doing a bunch of
experiments to locate the cause I finally found that the valve
stem to guide clearance was almost 4 thousandths.  It should be about
1 thousandth on a new head.  I am going to have the guides replaced
but this particular project has become very expensive - a complete
top end gasket and seal kit, coolant, new guides, machine shop
charges, various odds and ends, and lots of my time, all on top
of the usual expense in doing such a thing.  I suggest that anyone
contemplating World Products heads do a very careful inspection of
the heads before installing them.

Well, there's my three tales of woe.  I hope that this spares
someone else some grief.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 14:49:23 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: jca@fibercom.fibercom.com (James C. Akers)
Content-Length: 3792

>[ My Chevelle setup is as simple as simple can get.  The idea is to lift
>the back of the hood so air has a chance to get out.  I used carfully
>cut 2x2 aluminum tube between the hinges and the hood.  My wife thinks
>it is terribly ugly, as if the hood does not fit.  The hood does not
>meet the fresh air intake area at the base of the windsheild.
>
>I first saw this in HRM.  Big Red, the 230mph '68 Firebird has a hood
>setup very similar to mine.  I have subsequently seen it in a few other 
>cars.  This may not be for you, especially if you ever expect to drive
>where it is wet or snowy or cold.  None of that applies here in SoCal.
>
>Do not cut holes in the firewall!  --FEP  ]

OK, I'll bite on this one...   At a stand-still, it makes sense
that what you describe would promote air flow out the back of the
hood; however, I thought that at speed, the slow-moving air
at the base of the windshield created a high-pressure zone and
would effectively fight _against_ the flow from under the hood.
I always thought that to promote good under-hood temperatures, 
you would have a good air dam under the radiator area and sealed
(as well as possible) wheel wells and hood.  The rapid-moving air
below the car (low-pressure) effectively siphons the slow-moving
air from under the hood.

Frank, maybe you can delve into your results...  (I assume your
car runs cooler now?)  How about some physics!

[ I am running this way for few reasons, not all of them entirely
logical.

First, when I was running my car this summer, I used it to zip to the
store at lunch, and other things.  It was about 95 degrees with strong
sun.  Hot.  In traffic, a great deal of HOT air was blown out from
under the propped open hood with the two electric fans turned on.  I
never overheated.  With the hood closed, the air had to work against 
gravity and get blown out the bottom of the car.  Not as good.

At speed, you are correct that there is a air stall at the base of
the windsheild in many cars.  Two things apply in my case.  First,
and perhaps least obvious, is that by canting the hood, the "area
at the base of the windsheild" is fundamentally smaller, and the 
thing that causes the stall, the sharp angularity between the hood
and the windsheild, is less angular, promoting flow.  Second, look
at the front of a '64/'65 Chevelle.  Major barn door effect; the
stall area is much much larger than the windsheild.  

The equation is "can the pressure stall in the front of the car
be lessened by passing more air, and sending that air over the
windsheild".  I have no proof, other than good cooling, the waving
of telltales, and old pictures of other people doing it that it
works.

Clearly this is dependent on velocity, air temperature, hood angle,
radiator temperature, and many other things.

WRT ground effect devices.  My current setup is also bound by the 
fact that my ground effect equipment currently consists of a bunch of
stock, a pile of bolts and a few packages of brazing rods all held
together by a few ideas.  When this changes, I'll test my hood again.
( Air Mgt. remains here on the list on my terminal.... )

Also, I have not had any REAL speed tests ( >120mph ) because I 
felt unsafe with my four wheel drums and single circuit master brakes.
THAT problem is now behind me.

Finally, I like the way it looks.  The racer boys in Hondas with loud 
mufflers and decals do not even bother anymore.  I think they hear and
see the dual 2.5" exhaust, note the lumpy idle, sticky tires and low
stance and decide to try to race the next Hundai. --FEP ]


BTW- congratulations on getting your oil pan fixed!
jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 14:58:24 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 3549

 >Wait a minute - your using AN-8 lines to cool the motor?  If you restrict the
>outlet of the engine the water will recirculate through the motor.  This will
>really bring the temperature up.  Which intake manifold are you using?  What
>kind of provisions does it have for a thermostat?  From my catalogs both the
>wieand street supercharger and the B&M Megablower have standard stock
>thermostats (although mounted sideways).  Could you have the wrong manifold?
>Summit catalof mentions the Wieand manifold is redesigned.
>
>Dirk

The manifold I have is a weiand, not sure of the part number nor date of this
thing. It has 4-3/8" pipe threads at each corner of the radiator. My current
configuration uses 2 AN-10 lines out of the 2 front pipe threads. To get this
to work I had to modify the fitting! These go into the radiator. The water is
picked up through the water pump using the normal hose. 2 1/2" I believe. I
think the 2 An-10's are about the same flow as the normal radiator hose would
allow. I could be wrong.
 My new (proposed) configuration will keep what is currently there, and add an
auxillary radiator (3 row 20" x 14"). This radiator will be fed by the 2 other
pipe threads at the back of the block. I plan on using AN-8 this time so I 
won't have to modify the fittings. This new radiator will feed into the heater
hose pick up on the water pump, using a AN-10 or maybe AN-12. This new radiator
will mount in front of the existing one.
 I'm hoping that: 1. The addition of extra coolant capacity will help and 2.
relieving hot water out of all 4 corners of the engine will also help.
 The fan(s) I am using are dual 12 electrics from Flex-o-Lite. They are mounted
within a 1/2" of the radiator and use a single sensor. And what a peice of crap
design this is! A copper bulb that you fit in with the top radiator hose. You
pay good money, and this is the kind of engineering you get?? I could not get
that darn thing to stop leaking!! Got it down to an occasional drip, but never
completely sealed! Have this problem figured out though, the new radiator will
have a copper tube going 6" into its tank, then I'll just drop the bulb from the
sensor into it!
 The idea of allowing air out of the hood is taken care of. Pleanty of air 
escapes through the big hole the carbs and top of the blower stick through. I
still don't see how the Dorito bags fit in??

[  Doritos bags...  Cut the plasitc into triangles, 1/2" by 2", like
small flags.  Put these flags on stiff pieces of wire, and mount them
in places where you want to examine air flow.  Put a few in visible
places on the hood, these are the reference sites.  If the other
telltales behave the same way as the ones at the reference sites, you
have the same air flow at each telltail.  Careful use of telltales is a
low buck form of aerodynamic testing, like a wind tunnel and smoke
trail.  For example, by placing a telltale in a hood louver you could
tell if it is exausting air, sucking air, or just causing turbulence.
Do not drive fast when using telltales, you will be distracted and 
likely to crush something.   --FEP ]

 The only other change I may be able to make is opening the 2 front 3/8" pipe
threads to 1/2" pipe threads and running a larger set of lines there. But this
means really modifying the manifold.

Will it work>>

Mark

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 18:27:45 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cadillac V8-6-4
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 765


Thanks to everyone who responded about the Cadillac V8-6-4 system.
It's a bit different than I had imagined; it seems like it is either
on or off for any particular cylinder, with no transition between
the two states.  Too bad; that means that I can't use the idea
for what I had in mind.  And maybe that's why it got a bad reputation -
the abrupt transition from mode to mode must have made Cadillac
customers unhappy that their engines weren't smooth.

One thing that I don't understand, though; how could a solenoid
hold the pivot for the rocker arm?  I come up with a rough guess
that the force on the stud which holds a conventional rocker arm
is about 650 pounds; that's much more than any solenoid I have seen
can cope with.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 20:08:18 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 1398


>The manifold I have is a weiand, not sure of the part number nor date of this
>thing. It has 4-3/8" pipe threads at each corner of the radiator. My current

This is begining to sound like a race manifold.
I would highly recommend calling eithe Weiand or someone like BDS and seeing 
what a new manifold cost - one with an integral thermostat housing.  Calling 
Weiand might quickly tell you if the manifold will work at all on the street.  
This might save you alot of money.  That would be my first step.

>configuration uses 2 AN-10 lines out of the 2 front pipe threads. To get this
>to work I had to modify the fitting! These go into the radiator. The water is
>picked up through the water pump using the normal hose. 2 1/2" I believe. I
>think the 2 An-10's are about the same flow as the normal radiator hose would
>allow. I could be wrong.

Two 1/2 lines have a total cross sectional area of 2 x (Pi x .25^2) or .392 sq 
in.  A single 2" radiator hose would be closer to 3.14 sq in.  Neglecting 
losses due to skin friction - you are an order of magnitude to small.

Its really beginning to sound like you have a drag race style set-up.

BTW - is this the project that someone posted about a year ago?  Something 
about not being able to run a Harmonic balancer due to the configuration?
If so, I can think of another question to ask Wieand...

So what does a manifold cost anyway?

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 20:28:59 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Ol' Jim, Hisself" 
Content-Length: 2024

> 
> A couple of weeks ago I decided to replace my old and tired Delco
> battery which had given faithful service until I ran it down all
> the way; that's really hard on a standard car battery and it was
> totally my fault.  Checking around for a new one revealed that
> Pep Boys had in stock a battery that would fit the battery tray
> and had higher ratings than the old one.  I bought one of those
> and installed it.  It didn't seem to be as strong as the old Delco
> but I figured that there might be some kind of a break-in needed
> so I kept running it.  Instead of getting better, it got worse.
> Last weekend it couldn't turn the engine against normal compression
> and I couldn't get the engine started.  I replaced this battery
> with one from Kragen and now my starter sounds like it used to.
> I don't know if I just happened across a bad battery or if all the
> Pep Boys batteries are poor.  In either case, I can't recommend
> Pep Boys batteries.
> 
Why didn't you take it back to Pep Boys and get a replacement. I can't 
see an outfit like Pep Boys arguing over a bad battery.

Wal-Mart sells batteries.  I once got a bad battery from them. After I 
brought it back, they checked it on their battery tester, and immediately 
replaced it.  The guy even gave me a few extra months on the warranty tag.

Ol' Jim, hisself   
                                              V 
                            ^ ^             (o o)  
                            o o            (  V  )
 ****************************U***************m*m**************************
 **                                   *      VVV                        ** 
 **        Jim & Ana Wallace         and             Michel,            **
 **       hisself@digital.net         *       the Moluccan Cockatoo     **   
 **   wallace@tp628b.ksc.nasa.gov     *             who owns us         **
 **                                   *                                 **
 *************************************************************************   



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Wed Dec 21 23:13:19 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Jim Davies 
Content-Length: 1484



> [ My Chevelle setup is as simple as simple can get.  The idea is to lift
> the back of the hood so air has a chance to get out.  I used carfully
> cut 2x2 aluminum tube between the hinges and the hood.  My wife thinks
> it is terribly ugly, as if the hood does not fit.  The hood does not
> meet the fresh air intake area at the base of the windsheild.
> 
> I first saw this in HRM.  Big Red, the 230mph '68 Firebird has a hood
> setup very similar to mine.  I have subsequently seen it in a few other 
> cars.  
This is old technology, but it works well. I wont say when I first saw 
this idea used, but it was a while ago. Most times, you can just adjust 
the hood *wrong* to get an acceptable gap, without added pieces. A 2 inch 
rise at the hinge is probably excessive for function. Another way to do 
it is to rework the back of the hood. Usually a couple inches deep by 
about 2 ft. long will do it. Not a good idea for a valuable hood ;)

[ The Chevelle hood nests into its stock location about 3/4"  The 2"
rise gives about a 1 1/4" slot all the way across.  2" square stock
was very fast and easy to fabricate, and provided enough room to use
the stock bolts to attach the riser to the hood.  I realize it is not
optimal, just ad hoc hot rod.  --FEP ]

This may not be for you, especially if you ever expect to drive
> where it is wet or snowy or cold.  None of that applies here in SoCal.
> 
Actually, this is the fastest windshield defrost method ever invented. 

JD



From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 13:59:44 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: David Cooley 
Content-Length: 1269

On Wed, 21 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

>  My new (proposed) configuration will keep what is currently there, and add an
> auxillary radiator (3 row 20" x 14"). This radiator will be fed by the 2 other
> pipe threads at the back of the block. I plan on using AN-8 this time so I 
> won't have to modify the fittings. This new radiator will feed into the heater
> hose pick up on the water pump, using a AN-10 or maybe AN-12. This new radiator
> will mount in front of the existing one.
>  I'm hoping that: 1. The addition of extra coolant capacity will help and 2.
> relieving hot water out of all 4 corners of the engine will also help.
> 
> Mark
> 
   Mark,

I wouldn't recommend running the 2 fittings at the back of the manifold
into a radiator... you stand a very good chance of overheating the
center 2 cyl's on the heads.  Water comes up thru the block to the back
of the heads and forward to the thermostat.  Drain it from the back of
the heads, and you'll be removing flow from across the center 2
cylinders.  The center cyl's usually only have tiny steam holes that
will not allow enough coolant by themselve to cool those cyls.  The 2
in the back should just be connected together to equalize flow through
the motor.

Later,
Dave Cooley
cooldave@nando.net


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 14:04:05 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject:       Re: Glaze begone
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Mark Blunier" 
Content-Length: 1143

> Date sent:      Tuesday, Dec 20 1994 09:37:59
> From:           hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
> To:             Hotrod_users@dsea.com
> Subject:        Re: Glaze begone
> Send reply to:  hotrod@dsea.com

> During High school and a couple years into college I worked at a Country Club 
> on course maintenance.  One day we ran out of gas on the back side of the golf 
> course.  My manager only had mixed gas with him (for weed eaters etc.)  So he 
> poured that in.  We made it about 1/2 way back when the engine leaned out.  
> Seems there was some sediment or something that didn't agree with the fuel 
> system.  Fortunately the carberator's filter caught it.  Even after removeing 
> the gas tank, blowing out all the fuel lines, we never got it run more than a 
> week before the filter had to be removed and cleaned....
> 
Would the mixed gas be much different in boat gas than lawn mower gas?
I know the ratios can be different 50:1 vs 20:1, but is there anything
significantly different?  And for that matter, is there anything
significantly different between the Farm & Fleet boat oil, and the
Mercury boat oil?
>
Mark W. Blunier 


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 14:26:52 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cowl Induction
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X-From: jws@mlb.semi.harris.com (James W. Swonger)
Content-Length: 1071


 I have this idea about a 'stealth' cowl induction scheme,
one where I would cut a port through the firewall into the cowl 
sump, finish it off with a fitting into the engine compartment 
for a piece of air hose and into a regular Thermac air cleaner,
put on backwards. The entry face area on my vehicles is pretty
big, and the cowl sump -> kick panel vents do seem to blow a
fair bit of cool air when rolling.

 This would be made 'simple' by the fact that I am going to have
to delaminate the cowl cap, sump and dash and replace layer by layer
to eliminate some large rust holes that leak rain into the passenger
compartment of the Skylark. Access to the interior side of the sump 
wall will allow decent construction.

[ This is an old, common, usable idea.  The easy description is to 
cut a hole in the firewall-to-fresh-air-intake area, and vent the
hole to your air cleaner.  

Close your footwell vents and shut off the heat.  Backfires can 
produce fireballs from the bottom of your windshield, or if you do
it right, from your air conditioner vents.  --FEP ]


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 14:36:03 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Content-Length: 1374

Hotrod List writes:
> 
> will mount in front of the existing one.
>  I'm hoping that: 1. The addition of extra coolant capacity will help and 2.
> relieving hot water out of all 4 corners of the engine will also help.
>  The fan(s) I am using are dual 12 electrics from Flex-o-Lite. They are mounted
> within a 1/2" of the radiator and use a single sensor. And what a peice of crap

I think two 12" aftermarket electric fans is probably adequate to cool
a very mild smallblock or v6.  You are also only pulling air over part
of your radiator surface area.  A real should help significantly,
depending on how much area is uncovered right now.  Fiberglass shrouds
for mounting electric fans are pretty easy to make.

[ I meant to say this before.  At least one aftermarket fan company
rates the fans they sell in "horsepower cooling"  If I remember
correctly, dual 12" fans are for 250 hp and less.  You might try dual
16" fans.

More fans are better; you can always leave them turned off, but it 
is not good to wish you had another just as you see superheated water 
blowing out of the radiator.  --FEP ]

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://frank.mtsu.edu/~lusky/               (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 14:48:17 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Content-Length: 2349

Hotrod List writes:
> 
> battery which had given faithful service until I ran it down all
> the way; that's really hard on a standard car battery and it was
> totally my fault.  Checking around for a new one revealed that
> Pep Boys had in stock a battery that would fit the battery tray
> and had higher ratings than the old one.  I bought one of those
> and installed it.  It didn't seem to be as strong as the old Delco
> but I figured that there might be some kind of a break-in needed
> so I kept running it.  Instead of getting better, it got worse.
> Last weekend it couldn't turn the engine against normal compression
> and I couldn't get the engine started.  I replaced this battery
> with one from Kragen and now my starter sounds like it used to.

PepBoys' batteries are junk.  They tend to leak all over the place, too.
The one I put in my Jeep lasted a whole year.

> A few months ago I needed some replacement heads for a SBC in a
> hurry so I bought some World Products replacement heads with
> hardened valve seats.  I was quite disappointed at the condition
> of the "drop in" heads - there were lots of sharp edges from the
> machining of the valve guides, and the casting surfaces (the
> intake and exhaust passages) were very rough.  I had the heads
> worked over, installed the valves and springs, and put the engine
> together.  It smoked.  It smoked a lot.  After doing a bunch of
> experiments to locate the cause I finally found that the valve
> stem to guide clearance was almost 4 thousandths.  It should be about
> 1 thousandth on a new head.  I am going to have the guides replaced
> but this particular project has become very expensive - a complete
> top end gasket and seal kit, coolant, new guides, machine shop
> charges, various odds and ends, and lots of my time, all on top
> of the usual expense in doing such a thing.  I suggest that anyone
> contemplating World Products heads do a very careful inspection of
> the heads before installing them.

I had a very similiar experience with a set of Dart II Sportmans
I bought back in early 90.  

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://frank.mtsu.edu/~lusky/               (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 14:54:31 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Camshaft design
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: efrank@ccwf.cc.utexas.edu (Erik Frank)
Content-Length: 2876

I'm in the process of building a nice, supercharged semi-street engine
for my BMW 2002.   One of the issues that I'm faced with is developing
a camshaft pattern that is suitable with this "forced induction"
application.  I thought I'd take advantage of the vast number of
automotive engineers out there (and future ones,too!!), and invoke an
"internet round table dicussion" about the design of the "optimum"
camshaft pattern.

First, the basic design constraints:

Engine type:  Inline 4 cylinder, SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder.
Bore: 92mm
Stroke: 80mm
Compression Ratio: 7.0:1
Combustion Chamber volume: 63cc
Intake Valve Size: 46mm
Exhaust Valve size: 38mm (both valves will be 21-4N stainless)
Pistons: forged aluminum
Projected peak blower boost: 14psig
Fuel delivery:  Electonic fuel injection (Electromotive)
Throttle Butterfly:  Depends....can make one that will flow up to 1300cfm, 
and go down from there....
Max Rpm: 7000

My goal is to make max horsepower, yet still have an engine that will last 
some _reasonable_ amount of time.  (10000-30000 miles???)


My limiting constraint with this engine is that it must be able to run
on 93 octane gas and/or octane booster.  (in other words, I will not be
using race gas).  I've been told that suitable forced induction
camshafts have a very low overlap and/or a wider lobe separation.  I
figure that conventional wisdom with respect to scavenging and cylinder
filling is out the window, because its already being forced in there.
It seems to me that the exhaust side of things would be much more
critical than the intake; since that part does not see the blower.
Also, port wall contours might be able to be smoother, rather than the
240 grit finish preferred by many engine builders.

Turbo enthusiasts?  What say?  There has to be some similarities
between the two types of induction that can be translated into camshaft
logic.  What do the top fuel dragster guys do?   Anybody ever run a
blown dragcar that could provide some insight?   (Note:  this is not a
dragster I'm building.....just curious for another data point)

It has also been brought to my attention, that, in the design of a
profile, the area under each curve is important.  Obviously, for
maximum power, maximum area is desirable.  However, I don't want to
start getting way wild on ramp acceleration rates, and incurr valve
float.   Seems like knowing the valvetrain dynamics, (mass, inertia,
etc) could be useful, particularly when selecting the proper
valvespring rates.

Anyway,  these are just a few preliminary thoughts I had.   I'm going
to approach this in the usual formal engineering problem solving
manner, but I just wanted to share a few thoughts, and hear what others
have to say about the whole shebang.

Take ease,
Erik Frank
Mechanical Engineering Student
The University of Texas, Austin
(done with finals, and damn happy about it.)


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 15:01:34 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject:       Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: "Mark Blunier" 
Content-Length: 2909

> >My question is this: How do you know when you have optimal coolant flow?
> 
> Simple:
> Measure the temperature at the hot side of the radiator and at the cool side.
> 
> The cool side is your engine inlet size.  If the cool side is running too hot 
> then either you are running the water too fast through the radiator or the 
> radiator is inadaquate. 

How can running the water too fast through the radiator make it
hotter?  We have very hot water comming into the radiator, and let's
say highly warm coming out.  If we slow down the rate, we will be
putting less hot water in, and get warm water out.  This will net a
loss in total cooling.

[ In the abstract this is not hard to understand.  If you mentally 
seperate the two flows involved, heat flow and fluid flow, it becomes
eaiser.  The fluid flow through the radiator takes a finite time.
As flow rate goes up, the time spent in the radiator for any single 
chunk of water goes down.

The heat flow takes a certain amount of time.  The nature of physical
materials means heat can only move at a certain rate at a certain 
temperature ( If I remember correctly, in metals it is the phonon 
transfer rate.... )  The max temp. of the cooling fluid is fixed by
engine design and application.   

The heat transfer rates, from fluid-in-radiator to air and from engine
block/heads to fluid-in-engine is governed by an exponential relation
based on temperature difference.  The temp. delta between the engine
and coolant can be much larger than the temp. delta between radiator
and ambient air.  Thus, for a certain dV for a certain d(time), it is
possible to extract more heat from an engine than it can dump in the
radiator.  Integrate in four dimensions and you get overheating.

In order to fix this ( in the most loose, hand waving fashion ) one
can make the product of fluid average dwell time and heat transfer 
potential the same for the fluid when it is in the cooling part of the
cycle and in the heating part of the cycle.  That should mean that 
fluid spends more time in the radiator than it does in the engine 
block.

Winding this all up before I get in too deep:  if the coolant flows
too fast, under some conditions, for some engines, it may be 
possible to overheat.  The radiator needs the d(time) because the
engine always has the advantage in d(temp).  Linearlly take away the 
radiator's d(time) by having a fast pump, and it looses to the 
engine's exponential d(temp).

One more thing.  For maximum cooling you want maximum coolant temp. 
when it comes into the radiator.  The cooling function is exponential
in d(temp) between coolant and surroundings.

This is a complex field.  The practical solution to cooling problems
is to get a big radiator, a good thermostat, and a few big fans.
--FEP ]


> If the cool side is cool (more in line where you want 
> it) then you may be running the water too slow.
>

Mark W. Blunier
 

From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 16:07:08 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 999

>BTW - is this the project that someone posted about a year ago?  Something
>about not being able to run a Harmonic balancer due to the configuration?
>If so, I can think of another question to ask Wieand...

>Dirk

This is probably I. Instead of a H. Balancer I am using a crank hub. Just
a large chunk of steel with an aluminum pully attached. What would the
question be??

>From your equations:
>Two 1/2 lines have a total cross sectional area of 2 x (Pi x .25^2) or .392 sq
>in.  A single 2" radiator hose would be closer to 3.14 sq in.  Neglecting
      ^^^^^^^^^^^

The bottom radiator hose measures 2", the top radiator hose which the 2
lines feed into measures a little over 1". This is where I am guessing
my 2 lines can feed this one 1" line..... No???

Mark.
-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 16:13:29 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: hale@brooktree.com (bob hale)
Content-Length: 1953


I wrote:
>> A couple of weeks ago I decided to replace my old and tired Delco
>> battery which had given faithful service until I ran it down all
>> the way; that's really hard on a standard car battery and it was
>> totally my fault.  Checking around for a new one revealed that
>> Pep Boys had in stock a battery that would fit the battery tray
>> and had higher ratings than the old one.  I bought one of those
>> and installed it.  It didn't seem to be as strong as the old Delco
>> but I figured that there might be some kind of a break-in needed
>> so I kept running it.  Instead of getting better, it got worse.
>> Last weekend it couldn't turn the engine against normal compression
>> and I couldn't get the engine started.  I replaced this battery
>> with one from Kragen and now my starter sounds like it used to.
>> I don't know if I just happened across a bad battery or if all the
>> Pep Boys batteries are poor.  In either case, I can't recommend
>> Pep Boys batteries.

And Ol' Jim, hisself writes:
>Why didn't you take it back to Pep Boys and get a replacement. I can't 
>see an outfit like Pep Boys arguing over a bad battery.

I intend to return it when I get the opportunity but that won't be for
a couple of weeks at least.  I have already replaced the battery and I
don't want another Pep Boys battery which might have the same problem.

If I get any grief from the store then I'll let you all know.

My purpose in posting this experience was to hopefully help someone
else by forewarning him/her.  My having to buy another battery already
cost me more time and money, and a return trip to Pep Boys will cost
me yet more time and money.  If the battery had been good then I
wouldn't have lost the time and money on these two trips.  I'll bet
that Pep Boys won't make good on my time or travel expenses.  As a
friend puts it, "vote with your feet."  I am hoping to help others make
an informed vote.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 22 17:58:05 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: derekp@stdavids.picker.com (Derek Pietro)
Content-Length: 2817

> On Wed, 21 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:
> 
>>My new (proposed) configuration will keep what is currently there, and add an
>>auxillary radiator (3 row 20" x 14"). This radiator will be fed by the 2 other
>>pipe threads at the back of the block. I plan on using AN-8 this time so I 
>>won't have to modify the fittings. This new radiator will feed into the heater
>>hose pick up on the water pump, using a AN-10 or maybe AN-12. This new radiator
>>will mount in front of the existing one.
>>I'm hoping that: 1. The addition of extra coolant capacity will help and 2.
>>relieving hot water out of all 4 corners of the engine will also help.
>> 
>> Mark
>> 
>    Mark,
> 
> I wouldn't recommend running the 2 fittings at the back of the manifold
> into a radiator... you stand a very good chance of overheating the
> center 2 cyl's on the heads.  Water comes up thru the block to the back
> of the heads and forward to the thermostat.  Drain it from the back of
> the heads, and you'll be removing flow from across the center 2
> cylinders.  The center cyl's usually only have tiny steam holes that
> will not allow enough coolant by themselve to cool those cyls.  The 2
> in the back should just be connected together to equalize flow through
> the motor.
> 
> Later,
> Dave Cooley
> cooldave@nando.net
> 

This has been interesting to me. My 69 chevelle has a 319 (destroked
327) with a very old hillborn 2 inch stack mechanical FI manifold on
it. It has 2 ports on the front of the manifold that accept a number 6
line. I ran them to a remote thermostat box (from B&M i believe) and
used radiator hose to go from there to the radiator.  Needless to say,
the car ran hot. (drag car, but it still got a little too warm for my
comfort). I had to make up fittings to go into 2 similar ports at the
back of the manifold (they're really weird thread and set style) and
run 2 more number 6 lines from there up to my thermostat housing, and
drill and tap the housing to accept the 2 new lines. It seems ok,
except on really hot days, but that has always been the case. I didnt
think about the lack of cooling on the center cylinders. Thoughs on how
to detect this as a problem? Will it discolor plugs? Show leaness?
Anyway, the next engine, should it ever get done, will be using a 2 1/2
inch crower manifold that has a thermostat housing on it already.

I have seen people remove fittings from a heater core, and solder them
directly to a radiator and remove the radiator hose style neck. BUT if
cooling is a problem, I'd look into a "normal" manifold. I agree that
it sounds like you have a race only manifold. A possible alternative is
to get someone to open up the passages you have to accept a larger hose
on each side?  My $.02.

Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
St Davids, Pa. office
derekp@stdavids.picker.com


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:08:13 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Camshaft design
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: CFung@aol.com
Content-Length: 301

While you have a nice project an engine swap for more BMW engineered
horsepower and less ambitious and less costly plans on your part would get
you where you want to go faster and with less headache.  Every modification
you do adds a few percent to hp, except blower is adds alot, but at great
cost.


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:10:21 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Parts to steer clear of
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Skedadl@aol.com
Content-Length: 335

I bought a set of World Products S/R Replacements for my 350 s/b Chev.
These came with 1.94 intakes, 1.50 exhausts, otherwise bare.  I had a
good machine shop cut 2.02 intakes, flow the bowls, replace the guides,
install screw-in studs and pushrod guide plates, good springs, etc.
They work fine for me.  Never any problems.

Skedadl


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:26:16 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Cadillac Mailing list or users group
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Michael Stewart 
Content-Length: 549

Hello to all Classic American owners reading this posting .
I have read an F.A.Q which says that someone who reads the 
above might know the location of a newsgroup or mailing list 
for cadillac owners .If they do could they kindly send me details 
to my email adress which is michael@mikest.demon.co.uk
 
It would be greatly appreciated as I havent found anything even
close !!!

[ A 'grep -i cad' on auto-contact-list does not show much in the
email area.  Is there a Caddy list?  Probably.  
Can somebody post it?   --FEP ]

-- 
Michael Stewart


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:31:36 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Camshaft design
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Mark Leavitt 
Content-Length: 1315

On Thu, 22 Dec 1994, Hotrod List wrote:

> I'm in the process of building a nice, supercharged semi-street engine
> for my BMW 2002.   One of the issues that I'm faced with is developing
> a camshaft pattern that is suitable with this "forced induction"
> application.  I thought I'd take advantage of the vast number of
> automotive engineers out there (and future ones,too!!), and invoke an
> "internet round table dicussion" about the design of the "optimum"
> camshaft pattern.
> 
> First, the basic design constraints:
> 
> Engine type:  Inline 4 cylinder, SOHC, 2 valves per cylinder.
> Bore: 92mm
> Stroke: 80mm
> Compression Ratio: 7.0:1
> Combustion Chamber volume: 63cc
> Intake Valve Size: 46mm
> Exhaust Valve size: 38mm (both valves will be 21-4N stainless)
> Pistons: forged aluminum
> Projected peak blower boost: 14psig
> Fuel delivery:  Electonic fuel injection (Electromotive)
> Throttle Butterfly:  Depends....can make one that will flow up to 1300cfm, 
> and go down from there....
> Max Rpm: 7000
> 
> Stuff Deleted

A few more bits of information that will be needed to provide the "optimum"
you referred to.

How much does the car weigh? 

Standard or automatic transmission?

Differential ratio?

Do you want torque or horsepower?

Where do you want the power to come on? (RPM)

Mark......


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:32:32 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: Dirk Broer 
Content-Length: 3132


>>BTW - is this the project that someone posted about a year ago?  Something
>>about not being able to run a Harmonic balancer due to the configuration?
>>If so, I can think of another question to ask Wieand...
>
>This is probably I. Instead of a H. Balancer I am using a crank hub. Just
>a large chunk of steel with an aluminum pully attached. What would the
>question be??

I'm sorry, its just earlier I showed some concern about not running a
balancer.  Not running a balancer was / is(?) common on some drag
cars.  I heard it was a no-no for everything else.

Well I bit the bullet and called Weiand.

The intake manifold in question is a race manifold but should work on
the street.  They recommended running two hoses from the front of the
manifold to a remote thermostat housing.  Sounds like what you did.  I
also asked them about the harmonic balancer - they told me they run
spacers between the top pulley and the supercharger - thus allowing the
larger harmonic balancer.

I'm not saying that the rubber band between the supercharger and the
crank won't dampen out some harmonics (and or vibrations) but after all
the warnings I've read about not running a harmonic balancer I would
hesitate.

>>From your equations:
>>Two 1/2 lines have a total cross sectional area of 2 x (Pi x .25^2) or .392 sq
>>in.  A single 2" radiator hose would be closer to 3.14 sq in.  Neglecting
>      ^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>The bottom radiator hose measures 2", the top radiator hose which the 2
>lines feed into measures a little over 1". This is where I am guessing
>my 2 lines can feed this one 1" line..... No???

You mentioned you have to AN 10 lines right?  An AN 10 is equal to
10/16 of an inch OD tubing right?  So I guesstimated 1/2" ID.  So
basically you inlet is feed by a 2" hose and your outlet is two 1/2"
hoses (give or take).  The total cross sectional area of the lines may
not be enough.  Since we are talking cross-sectional areas: doubling
the diameter would quadriple the cross-sectioanl area.

However,  talking to wieand, your set-up should work.  Which leads to
another question.  What is the highest point on your cooling system.
It should be the filler neck on the radiator (or in the case of a surge
tank - on top of the surge tank).  If the filler neck is not the
absolute highest point you will never get all the air out and you may
overheat.

To relocate the filler neck you can:
1) Weld an extension to the radiator (preferably from the top of the radiator
 - I of course mean braze/solder
2) Install a filler on top of the thermostat - I think Jegs sells these filler 
necks
3) Install a filler neck in the upper most radiator hose.

Before someone brushes this one off.  My friend and I installed a 302
in his truck using the complete Advanced Adapter's kit (for a
RangerII).  We installed the recommended 4 core radiator.  It would
over heat all the time.  Finally he took it to a friend's shop who
quickly noticed the radiators filler neck was too low.  Before asking
my opinion he welded a ugly looking 'J' shaped tubing with a filler
neck on top.  It worked - but I still think its ugly.

Live and Learn

Dirk


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:37:00 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu (Jonathan R. Lusky)
Content-Length: 3245

Hotrod List writes:
> 
> [ In the abstract this is not hard to understand.  If you mentally 
> seperate the two flows involved, heat flow and fluid flow, it becomes
> eaiser.  The fluid flow through the radiator takes a finite time.
> As flow rate goes up, the time spent in the radiator for any single 
> chunk of water goes down.
 
Be careful about trying to apply abstract concepts to specific events :)

> The heat flow takes a certain amount of time.  The nature of physical
> materials means heat can only move at a certain rate at a certain 
> temperature ( If I remember correctly, in metals it is the phonon 
> transfer rate.... )  The max temp. of the cooling fluid is fixed by
> engine design and application.   
 
> The heat transfer rates, from fluid-in-radiator to air and from engine
> block/heads to fluid-in-engine is governed by an exponential relation
> based on temperature difference.  The temp. delta between the engine
> and coolant can be much larger than the temp. delta between radiator
> and ambient air.  Thus, for a certain dV for a certain d(time), it is
> possible to extract more heat from an engine than it can dump in the
> radiator.  Integrate in four dimensions and you get overheating.

The rate at which heat transfers to the water and from the water to
the air is pretty close constant with respect to mass flowrate of the
coolant.  Someone actually ran some numbers and posted them to r.a.t
a few years ago...  they concluded that "thermal runaway" was indeed
possible, but it would take a ridiculously high flow rate for it to
occur.   For the flow rates seen in automotive cooling systems, higher
yields better cooling in general due to less chance of formation of
steam pockets.

One big misconception that people always use to support the theory that
they are suffering thermal runaway is "spinning waterpump faster yields
higher flowrate".  This would be true if automotive waterpumps could
turn a decent RPM without cavitating--but they don't.  Two things happen
when cavitation sets in: 1) flowrate takes a nosedive, and 2) lots of
tiny steam bubles get formed in the coolant.  #2 significantly reduces
heat transfer in either direction.

[  Yes, yes, yes.  I specifically omitted the cavitation problem and 
the non linearities that come from faster fluid motion acrosss the 
sand-cast innards of typical engines.  I was trying to be simple, 
in the hopes that I might spark a conversation --like this one.  --FEP ]

> This is a complex field.  The practical solution to cooling problems
> is to get a big radiator, a good thermostat, and a few big fans.

Has always worked for me :)   One note, though...  a bad fan clutch
can cause overheating at any speed, not just around town.  When the
fan clutch died on my Wrangler in 100F Dallas summer, I was running
210F around town and 230F at 85mph, with the AC off.  Changed the fan
clutch, and the needle never moved past 195F (thermostat temp) except
when idling with the AC on.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky                        lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
http://frank.mtsu.edu/~lusky/               (615) 726-8700
-------------------------------------   ------------------------------
68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350  \_/ 80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:39:49 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov (Mark Fugazzotto)
Content-Length: 3293

  Thanks!! To everyone that has responded. I've learned quite a bit
about the cooling process! I've taken all my newly aquired knowledge
and have been running through it to try to figure out what 'might' be
the best solution in my application.

   First there is the suggestion that the manifold I have may be a race
only, and to possibly replace it with one that has an integral
thermostat housing on it. I considered this. I called Weiand and asked
them about it.  They said it's just there old style manifold. Their new
one is made with a normal thermostat housing. I thought, if I do this I
still have the problem of my current radiator being too small stil to
do the cooling required. About my radiator- It is stuffed into the nose
of a '76 Vega.  Not in the engine compartment, in the nose! The reason
for this, the blower drive setup takes up all available room infront of
the engine! In fact there is a 1/4" clearence between the idler pully
and the electric fans! This clearance was achieved by moving the engine
back 1/2" from where the installation kit would have put it. The fans
are mounted where the radiator would normally go. With the radiator
being in the nose, it doesn't get quite the airflow from the fans as I
could get otherwise. So I just don't feel using this radiator alone
will do the cooling.

   At this point I am staying with the manifold I have. It was suggested
that more is better. More coolant capacity, more airflow. I may be able
to increase airflow while the vehicle is in motion by making a spoiler
to direct airflow, but as far as fans go I am at my capacity with dual
12" that just fit. So I am going to go with my plan to add an auxilary
radiator, feeding it from the back 2 ports on the manifold, and picking
the water up thru the heater hose port on the water pump. It was said
that I may risk overheating the center 2 cylinders by doing this. I
thought, and came up with this: water and electricity share a couple
things in common, one is they both take the path of least resistance. I
plan to open the front 2 ports on the manifold to AN-12, which is an
11/16" i.d. The back 2 ports I will leave at AN-8 which is a 7/16"
i.d.  I will then get more water flow out the front of the heads, still
cooling the center 2 cylinders. The water flow out the back of the
manifold will help with getting water out of the engine faster. By
forcing the water pump to pickup water from 2 locations, water will
stay in each radiator a little longer. This applies another rule that
was stated, keep the water in the cooling side of the system longer and
in the heating side of the system shorter.

 I will still be adding a oil cooler to the engine to try to get rid of
some heat that way as well.

 Does this sound like a reasonable solution?? If not then I have been a
lousy student to this group!! Or I just missed the point somewhere.
Agian thanks for all the input! and:

                                 Have
                                  A
                                 Cool
                                 Yule

 Mark.

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:44:18 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: Re: Measuring coolant flow
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-From: yarvin-norman@CS.YALE.EDU (Norman Yarvin)
Content-Length: 5102

Mark W. Blunier writes:
>How can running the water too fast through the radiator make it
>hotter?  We have very hot water comming into the radiator, and let's
>say highly warm coming out.  If we slow down the rate, we will be
>putting less hot water in, and get warm water out.  This will net a
>loss in total cooling.
>
>[ In the abstract this is not hard to understand.  If you mentally 
>separate the two flows involved, heat flow and fluid flow, it becomes
>easier.  The fluid flow through the radiator takes a finite time.
>As flow rate goes up, the time spent in the radiator for any single 
>chunk of water goes down.
>
>The heat flow takes a certain amount of time.  The nature of physical
>materials means heat can only move at a certain rate at a certain 
>temperature ( If I remember correctly, in metals it is the phonon 
>transfer rate.... )  The max temp. of the cooling fluid is fixed by
>engine design and application.   
>
>The heat transfer rates, from fluid-in-radiator to air and from engine
>block/heads to fluid-in-engine is governed by an exponential relation
>based on temperature difference.  The temp. delta between the engine
>and coolant can be much larger than the temp. delta between radiator
>and ambient air.  Thus, for a certain dV for a certain d(time), it is
>possible to extract more heat from an engine than it can dump in the
>radiator.  Integrate in four dimensions and you get overheating.

This is not right.  The heat transfer rate is linear in the heat
difference.  That is to say, for any solid piece of matter the heat
transfer rate is proportional to the difference in heats:

	rate = k * (T1-T2)

where k is some constant depending on the piece of matter.

For the engine we have a system of equations like this:
  First the rate of heat transfer through the engine block/heads to the
  fluid: rate1 = k1 * (Tengine-Tfluid1)

  Then the rate of heat transfer from the fluid to the air, through the
  radiator: rate2 = k2 * (Tfluid2-Tair)

When everything has settled down, that is to say the engine is putting
out heat, and the radiator is disposing of it just as fast, these two
rates are equal:
	rate1 = rate2

So we have
	rate = k1 * (Tengine-Tfluid1) = k2 * (Tfluid2-Tair)

If the pump were running really fast and the cooling fluid were the
same temperature everywhere, we'd have:

	k1 * (Tengine-Tfluid) = k2 * (Tfluid-Tair)

and we could solve for the fluid temperature:

	k1*Tengine + k2*Tair = (k2+k1)*Tfluid

                  k1*Tengine + k2*Tair
	Tfluid = ----------------------
                        k1+k2

In fact there is a difference in temperature between the cooling fluid
in the engine and that in the radiator.  The temperature of the fluid
in the radiator is less than the temperature of the fluid in the engine:

	Tfluid2 = Tfluid1 - Tdiff

and Tdiff, the difference between the two temperatures, is positive.

So then our equation becomes

	k1 * (Tengine-Tfluid1) = k2 * (Tfluid2-Tair)

	k1*Tfluid1 + k2*Tfluid2 = k1*Tengine + k2*Tair

	k1*Tfluid1 + k2*(Tfluid1 - Tdiff) = k1*Tengine + k2*Tair

	k1*Tfluid1 + k2*Tfluid1 = k1*Tengine + k2*Tair + k2*Tdiff

                  k1*Tengine + k2*Tair + k2*Tdiff
	Tfluid1 = -------------------------------
	                    k1+k2

Now we go back and substitute that into the rate equation:

	rate = k1 * (Tengine-Tfluid1)

	                       k1*Tengine + k2*Tair + k2*Tdiff
	rate = k1 * (Tengine - -------------------------------)
	                                    k1+k2

	            (k1+k2)*Tengine - k1*Tengine - k2*Tair - k2*Tdiff
	rate = k1 * -------------------------------------------------
	                                   k1+k2

	            k2*Tengine - k2*Tair - k2*Tdiff
	rate = k1 * -------------------------------
	                       k1+k2

	       k1*k2
	rate = ----- * (Tengine - Tair - Tdiff)
	       k1+k2

Looking at this equation, we see the effect of Tdiff, which if you will
recall is the difference in temperature between the fluid in the
radiator and the fluid in the engine.  The higher Tdiff is, the less
the rate of heat flow is.  The faster the fluid flow, the lower Tdiff
will be and thus the higher the overall rate of heat transfer will be.

Of course the above equations don't quite mean what they say.  The
fluid in the radiator isn't all at the same temperature, so what I call
Tfluid2 is something like the average temperature of the fluid in the
radiator.  The same thing goes for the other three temperatures.  I
treated them as single numbers, but they are really an average
temperature, and not even a straight average but some sort of weighted
average.  But with that caveat the equations are exact.

>This is a complex field.  The practical solution to cooling problems
>is to get a big radiator, a good thermostat, and a few big fans.
>--FEP ]

Amen.  But also, a hefty water pump and large size hoses!  There's no
such thing as too much circulation.

--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu
  "Treason doth never prosper, what's the reason?
   For if it prosper, none dare call it treason."
	--Sir John Harrington, 1561-1612


From dsea.com!hotrod@server.eng.dsea.com Thu Dec 29 17:47:20 1994
From: hotrod@dsea.com (Hotrod List)
To: Hotrod_users@dsea.com
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-48*
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dsea.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to frank@dsea.com
X-From: stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil (Bill Stoffel)
Content-Length: 9202

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

   Now ending its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation 
of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, 
my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

   TVE will usually be updated no later than every Friday morning and 
will be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If 
your favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 
day window.

   Thanks to EMI Communications, TVE listings are also available on the 
World-Wide-Web at URL  "http://www.emi.com/tve.html" where they will be 
archived for an indeterminate period of time.

   If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

MotoWorld                             12/22    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
For Race Fans Only w/Ernie Irvan      12/22    6:30-8:30PM      QVC
MotorWeek (Suzuki Swift)              12/22    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
MotoWorld II                          12/22   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
MotoWorld II                          12/24    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/24    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (bearings & seals) 12/24    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             12/24    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/24    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/24    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/24    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Sports Cavalcade (grass roots racing) 12/24    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
			     Merry Christmas!
MotoWorld                             12/25    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
MotorWeek                             12/25    3:35-4:05AM      WJZ
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/25    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (air races)   12/25    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Rusty & Harry G) 12/25    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/25    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/25    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/25   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Rusty & Harry G) 12/25    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/25    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Sports Cavalcade (grass roots racing) 12/25    5:00-6:30PM      TNN
FORMULA 2 SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)     12/25    6:30-7:30PM      SPTS
Shadetree Mechanic (bearings & seals) 12/25    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/25    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 12/25    7:30-9:00PM      SPTS
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/25    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/25    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (air races)   12/25    10:00-10:30PM    TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                12/25    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/25    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/25   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Sports Cavalcade (grass roots racing) 12/26    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
Formula 1 Year In Review              12/26    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/26    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
MotorWeek                             12/26    3:00-3:30AM      WGN
FORMULA 2 SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)     12/26    12:00-1:00PM     MSC
MICKEY T. OFF-ROAD, DENVER (T)        12/26    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
CHECKERED FLAG SERIES (T)             12/26    1:00-2:00PM    MSC,SCP
Thrills & Spills                      12/26    2:00-2:30PM      ESPN2
CHECKERED FLAG SERIES (T)             12/26    2:00-3:00PM      SCP
CHECKERED FLAG SERIES (T)             12/26    3:00-5:00PM    MSC,SCP
FRENCH MOTORCYCLE GP, LEMANS (T)      12/26    5:00-6:00PM      ESPN2
GOLD COAST 300, LAS VEGAS (T)         12/26    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN2
On Pit Road                           12/26   11:30PM-12:00AM   HSE
IHBA POWERBOATS, PHOENIX (T)          12/27    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
BRITISH MOTORCYCLE GP, DONINGTON PK (T12/27    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
RaceLine                              12/27   11:30PM-12:00AM   HTS
FORMULA 2 SUPERCUP, PENSACOLA (T)     12/28    3:00-4:00AM      PRTK
Legacy Of Champions                   12/28    1:00-2:00PM      EMPS,
			      HTS,KBL,MSG,PASS,PSN,PSNW,PSN2,SCOH,SUN
IHBA POWERBOATS, PHOENIX (T)          12/28    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
CZECH MOTORCYCLE GP (T)               12/28    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Legacy Of Champions                   12/28    7:00-8:00PM      SPTS
Legacy Of Champions                   12/29    1:00-2:00AM      SCNE
Legacy Of Champions                   12/29    3:30-4:30AM      SCNE
On Pit Road                           12/29    4:30-5:00AM      SCNE
Legacy Of Champions                   12/29    4:00-5:00PM      SCNE
Monster Trucks                        12/29    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
SCCA Year In Review                   12/29    5:00-6:00PM      HTS
MotoWorld                             12/29    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (VW VR6 & ragtop bimmer)    12/29    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
10th Anniversary MotoWorld            12/30    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
MotoWorld II                          12/30    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
EUROPEAN MOTORCYCLE GP, BARCELONA (T) 12/30    7:00-8:00PM      ESPN2
MotoWorld II                          12/31    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 12/31    7:00-8:30AM      EMPS,
					   MSG,PSN,PSNW,PSN2,SCOH,SCP
LEGENDS, DAYTONA (T)                  12/31    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN2
Legacy Of Champions                   12/31    2:00-3:00PM      MSG
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/31    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Legacy Of Champions                   12/31    2:30-3:30PM      EMPS,
						    KBL,PSN,SCNE,SCOH
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/31    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Secrets Of Speed (Emo)                12/31    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN2
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/31    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NHRA, POMONA (T)                      12/31    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
Motor Sports Awards                   12/31    5:00-6:00PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (VW VR6 & ragtop bimmer)    12/31    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
MONTEREY HISTORIC (T)                 12/31    10:00-11:30PM    PRTK
			     Happy New Year!
NASCAR SUPERTRUCKS, TUCSON (L)        01/08    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
CARS, RALLYE CHARLEVOIX (T)           01/08    5:00PM           TSN
CARS, TALL PINES RALLY (T)            01/15    1:30PM           TSN
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, TUCSON (L)          01/15    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NASCAR WINSTON WEST, TUCSON (L)       01/22    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/05    7:30PM           TNN
NASCAR, BUSCH CLASH (?)               02/12    tba              tba
IROC #1, DAYTONA                      02/15 (live coverage is unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)  :-)   :-)   02/19    tba              CBS
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/26    tba              TNN

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
AMC      American Movie Classics
CBCE     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (East)
CBCW     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (West)
CBCM     Canadian Broadcasting Corporation (Montreal)
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ENC      Encore
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music(?) Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
NESN     New England Sports Network
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Reseau Des Sports (Canada - French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      The Sports Network (Canada - English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WJZ      Baltimore
WOR      New York "Super Station"
WRC      Washington, DC
WUSA     Washington, DC
-------