From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Mar  1 06:52:59 1994
Subject: Re: Tube Frame
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Can you use aluminum (threaded, maybe) and epoxy?  I understand some
bicycle frames are made this way.

Otherwise, how about thinwall cromoly or 4130?

I would be interested in a discussion of round tubing vs. square
tubing for both choppers and cars.

-Bob


[4130 is hard to beat for airframe construction even though it 
must be heat treated after welding.  This can be as simple as
heating the joint to red heat with a rosebud and then covering
it with vermiculite or kittylitter for slow cooling.

A good source for thin wall 4130 tubing is Alexander Aeroplane
right here in Atlanta.  The cater to the homebuilt aircraft
and the racecar builder.  They stock a wide variety of composite
materials too.  They gladly cut and sell fractional pieces of
both tubing and composite materials.  800 831 2949.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 04:21:57 1994
Subject: Re: tranny swap
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In article  yee_will@bentley.edu wrote:
: Hello,
: 	I have a 87 monte carlo ls with the 305 in it.  The current
: tranny is the 200r4.  The tranny is on it's last leg and instead of
: rebuilding it I would like to take a earlier monte and take the
: turbo 350 and put it in.  The guy at the parts store said I can't
: put the tranny into my car unless some welding and cutting and
: moving of the crossmember.  Can it be just dropped in or is the guy
: at the parts store right? Also I was wondering if the effort to drop
: a 700r4 is the same as dropping the 350.
: 			
: Posted by: emory!bentley.edu!YEE_WILL

I did this with a Regal (same GM G body). Just get the right
crossmember for the 350. Also check the driveshaft length. 

But do you really want to do this? The 200R4 can be rebuilt to
take anything short of a supercharged small block. If you
have a decent rear end ratio for performance you'll want the
overdrive for the highway. I plan to go back to the 200R4.
--
Norb Brotz                Cray Research Park    Internet: nbrotz@palm.cray.com
Sr. Programmer/Analyst    655F Lone Oak Drive   UUCP:     uunet!cray!nbrotz
Software Division         Eagan, Mn. 55121      phone:    (612) 683-5698

----------
Posted by: emory!palm.cray.com!nbrotz (Norb Brotz)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 04:31:51 1994
Subject: Re: VIN on super-old car
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> 
> Does anybody know anything about where to find the Vehicle Identification
> Number on a super-old car?
>
> Tom
> 
> ----------
When I registered my 39 Buick from Washington, I had to go through the
same ritual. The pink slip also had the engine number as the vin. The DmV
accepted that as proof of ID. I never got around to putting the V8 in it,
so I never got to fight that problem.

-- 
*******************************************************************************
*                                                         Gary Berry          *
*                                                         gberry@llnl.gov     *
*******************************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!wolverine.llnl.gov!berry (Gary Berry @ IDP)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 04:51:23 1994
Subject: Alternator brackets
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>I tried to make an aluminum bracket for the alternator on a 85 Vette
>TPI engine, but gave up and found a stock cast aluminum bracket.  I
>couldn't come up with anything simple that would work, without welding
>(didn't have acess to a welder).

C'mon, you Chevy guys have got it easy :-) Morosso makes an adjustable
alternator bracket for the SBC that may be the hot ticket.  They are
widely used on GT1 road race cars (among many others).

  Brian


----
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com

----------
Posted by: emory!pms706.pms.ford.com!bkelley (Brian Kelley)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 05:03:18 1994
Subject:       Re: tranny swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> In article  you write:
> >Hello,
> >   I have a 87 monte carlo ls with the 305 in it.  The current tranny is
> >the 200r4.  The tranny is on it's last leg and instead of rebuilding it I would
> >like to take a earlier monte and take the turbo 350 and put it in.  The guy at
> >the parts store said I can't put the tranny into my car unless some welding and
> >cutting and moving of the crossmember.  Can it be just dropped in or is the guy
> >at the parts store right? Also I was wondering if the effort to drop a 700r4 is
> >the same as dropping the 350.
> 
> Just get a crossmember from an earier car.. My 79 Monte Carlo has a TH-350
> in it, and it came stock.  The 78-88 cars were the same, so you should
> be able to put a TH350 in it.  Although, I think I'd rather have a 200r4
> cause of the overdrive.

Not all of them.  My 79 Monte has 200 in it that is about to die.

> 
> Now, the TH700r4 is an interesting idea.. I'd like to put one in my car.
Me to.
 Mark W. Blunier
blunier@cei.com
(217) 351-3117
fax (217) 351-8576

----------
Posted by: "Mark Blunier" 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 05:13:51 1994
Subject: Chevy TH-350 shift points
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	Hi all,

	I have a TH-350 sitting behind a Chevy 350 in my project
truck. I have a problem in that the trans. shifts to taller gears
way too soon (the motor dosen't get to rev very high at all in L1
or L2). In a normal drive away from a stop light, the L1 to L2 shift
is at 10 mph and L2 to L3 is at 20 mph. Otherwise the trans. behaves
fairly well when I stomp on it except that the shifts are not crisp 
at all. All shifting is smooth as warm butter.
	I have been told that there is an adjustment bolt just 
underneath an access plate on the side of the trans. which will
allow me to change the shifting points. What is the story here;
what can I do??

				Thanks for any reply/advice,

						Jon Warwick


 

----------
Posted by: emory!Belle.wes.army.mil!warwick (Jon Warwick)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 05:41:03 1994
Subject: VIN on super-old car
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-> I found a number stamped in the engine block which matches the number
-> on the old pink slip, and I also found a little plaque on the

 Dunno about your state, but Arkansas preferred the engine number when
available.  Your best bet would be to make a notarized affidavit that
the block number and the body number from the plaque match, and then
insist the DMV use the body number for your new VIN.  That'd cover you
if you ever swapped the engine.

 If the people at the DMV get balky (as seems to be the way of civil
servants everywhere) try a different office, or see about getting a copy
of your state's motor vehicle code.  In many states it's free!
                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 06:38:53 1994
Subject: Re: viscous slip rear
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> I don't see much difference between this and the detroit locker.
-> What am I missing?

 The Locker is a jaw clutch under preload.  It's basically a spool until
torque exceeds the preload, when it skips.  Go around a corner and one
tire will drag unless it drags hard enough to pop the Locker.  Sprags,
on the other hand, are one-way clutches.  Go around a corner and one
wheel will freewheel if the tires are loaded enough.
             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 07:27:16 1994
Subject: Re: 2 TBIs on 1 engine!
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>A few years ago I saw an article in Truckin' magazine about a shop that
>installed 2 TBI units on a small block (chevy) with a hot cam.  Does
>anyone know how to do this?  

I think '82 camaros and corvettes had this as an option ie cross fire 
injection.  YMMV

Dirk 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 07:27:50 1994
Subject: Engine Operating Temp
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	With warmer weather quickly approaching, it is time to install
lower temperature thermostats, auxillary transmission cooler, and an
auxillary electric fan to keep the rod cool. It likes to run warm in
the summer months.

	Can some people give me an idea of what coolant temperatures
are "safe" to run for highway driving? Without A/C, and an adjustable
timing control, my engine will go up to a steady 220 on a 90 degree
day. And yes, I have a larger than stock radiator, too. (The engine
is an I-6 250 with the siamese intake ports, which deosn't help).


						Jason

Experience varies directly with equipment ruined.

(jcborkow@eden.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!Jason,"6=8",Borkowsky
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 07:48:24 1994
Subject: Re: aluminum rods
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> suppliers - Kaiser for one - and I absolutely, positively refuse to have
> any 7075 on any motor vehicle I own.  Particularly not in a connecting
> rod.  Guess what the most popular alloy for rods is?  7075!  Manley's
> "cheap" rods are 20xx.  Now on paper the 20xx alloys don't look as good
> as the 7xxx alloys; most people zero in on tne "tensile strength"
> column.  But tensile isn't everything - 7-series alloys are brittle and
> prone to cracking; 2-series alloys (copper, instead of sand) are
> ductile, that is, they will bend without breaking.

I would not have thought that the tensile loads are the cause of rod failure
in most cases, although there is a fair amount of tension at the top of the
exhaust stroke. Anyone know the relative loads (tension vs compression)
offhand?


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 07:52:07 1994
Subject: Re: 1965 Impala SS for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) wrote:

> 1965 Impala SS for sale.  

[...]

> I've seen cars like this go for $11,000.  Asking price is $8,000.

I don't know where.  I just picked up Hemmings and found a bunch of '65
Impalas selling for half that.  In fact, I see a number of convertibles in
excellent shape for a thou or two less than your asking.

People should really pick up Hemmings before setting the price for their
sled.

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!bprofane (Gert Niewahr)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 07:53:29 1994
Subject: Re: Emmissions laws for 82 Trucks
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>I'm confused as to what emissions rules are for early 80's trucks.  I have a
>1982 El Camino, which is registered in Texas as a truck.  What exactly are the
>emissions requirements for a 1982 truck?  Right now it has a little, but 
>reliable, 3.8 L v-6.  I want to put a TBI big block in it this summer, and want
>to know what emissions requirements I will need to meet.  I can yank the cat
>off the '91 454 truck I'm going to take the engine from, or I could get two 
>cats from '84-89 Camaros.
>

I assume Texas followed the federal requirements for 1982 - therefor I 
suspect that Texas would want your truck to conform to the federal rules.

Now here's the kicker

Texas may consider it a truck but
Does the EPA consider it a truck?
and for those that have followed the import truck wars (SUV's)...
All the above doesn't mean DOT consideres it a truck or for that matter 
if the customs department considers it a truck.

Basically your best bet is to look for the underhood sticker and start from 
there.  

Next call your states emissions testing program.

There are two lines of questioning - the answers you get depend on the 
person on the other end of the phone-line.  One way to ask is what is legal
.  The other direction is to ask what is checked.  

I guess you'd better get it in writing.

Ask them about engine swaps - tell them your motor blew and you got a 
really good deal on an earlier engine / trans and you wonder if you can use 
it.  Ask them what you have to do to get waivers to allow you to use 
different combos.

When I asked the EPA about kit-cars I was told that if I had any two from (
Engine, Drivetrain, or Body) an older car I could regiseter it as the older 
car (as far as emissions goes).  I suspect you might be able to do the same


From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 08:02:41 1994
Subject: forging steel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I have a simple metalurgy question:

If you take steel bar stock (hot-rolled plain old steel), and bend it by
heating it cherry red and bending, does it reduce the strength of the steel
greatly?  

I've been making some simple brackets and stuff by heating it with my
oxy-acetylene torch and bending it.  The steel gets some crusty grey scale on
it which is easily brushed off.  I'm just wondering if the strength of the
steel is greatly reduced by this simple forging operation.  I let it cool
slowly, so I assume it's in a sort of annealed state.

I also had to bend the strut rods slightly when I put a Mustang II suspension
in my '54 Chevy truck.  I used a rosebud tip and got the rods just barely hot
enough to bend them by hand.  The rod is something like 3/4" thick.  Does
this operation weaken the rods much?

Thanks,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  1 08:21:45 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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X-News: skitzo.dseg.ti.com alt.hotrod:5472

>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject:Quadrajet problems
>Date: Wed, 30 Mar 94 21:31:12 GMT
>Message-ID:

> I have some problems with Quadrajet in my car and I hope someone can
>answer to these questions. The car is '80 full-size Buick, 350 Buick,
>TH400 and 2.41 rear.
>
> According to couple of books, the float level is measured from top of
>the float to top of the fuel bowl. What has this got to do with fuel
>level? If I don't know the correct float level, how can I find it?
>If I set the float level to what Chilton manual says, the needle
>wouldn't close, because the float hits the ceiling before that - at
>least it looked like that, didn't want to try...

You need to hold the needle seated while making the adjustment, also make sure
that the rod that the float pivots on is fully seated.  Make your measurement
at the toe of the float to the top of the casting.




>
> The carburator has some kind of lever under the power piston to force
>the piston up as the primaries open. What is the function of this lever
>and why it starts pushing the piston from idle. Thus the vacuum piston
>is only operating (needed) when there is high load and throttles are
>closed, where can I find this situation? \

I've never seen what you describe unless you are describing the accelerator
pump lever.  Sorry no help here.

>
> The A/F-ratio goes rich at about 60 mph (oxygen sensor). What else could
>cause this apart from that lever? The secondaries aren't open yet.
>Otherwise engine power and response is good but this richening drops
>mileage to 14 mpg (city-60-75 mph).
>
>____________________________________________________________________________
> Jari Porhio  eppu@cc.tut.fi :                  No offence  :)
>
>----------
>Posted by: Jari Porhio 

Troy

----------
Posted by: EILAND 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr  1 10:44:21 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
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This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
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Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 01:45:45 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>
> The A/F-ratio goes rich at about 60 mph (oxygen sensor). What else could
>cause this apart from that lever? The secondaries aren't open yet.
>Otherwise engine power and response is good but this richening drops
>mileage to 14 mpg (city-60-75 mph).
>
>____________________________________________________________________________
> Jari Porhio  eppu@cc.tut.fi :                  No offence  :)
>

Sounds like the power valve on the primary side is opening up.  Basically 
the power valve opens every time the spring on the power valve can over 
come the current available engine vacuum.  If traveling 60mph puts enough 
load on the engine the power valve will open.  Some Quadrajets have an 
adjustment screem on the powervalve / metering rod assembly.  When you have 
the carb disassembled you'll notice that on the lid, right infront of the 
primary's - actually on the lip of were the air cleaner goes is a plug.  It 
is approximately 5/16 in diameter.  I have drilled out and tapped the 
resulting hole allowing me to adjust the power valve opening point a few 
inches of Hg.

The next time you drive monitoring the air/fuel ratio - bring a vacuum 
gauge along.   Se if you can correlate the vacuum gauge reading with the 
richening of the mixture.  If you can you might want to adjust the power 
valve - my understanding is 2" of Hg below your cruise vacuum is 
appropriate.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 01:58:54 1994
Subject: Re: 289 Hi-Po cylinder heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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On Tue, 29 Mar 94 18:57:37 GMT, The Hotrod List wrote:

>Hi all,
>I spent the weekend at the Daytona Speedway Spectacular. Not as many
>vendors as the fall Turkey Rod Run but well worth my time.
>While there a fellow came by and offered me a set of what he thought
>were hi-po 289 heads off a 65 or 66 Shelby. These had a casting number of
>C50E, had what appeared to be 7/16 studs and new guide plates. Does
>anyone know if these are a real find and if so what a fasir price would be?
>BTW, these were completely rebuilt and were mildly ported. Thanks for any
>advice.
>
>----------
>Posted by: Bob Bigelow 

Bob,
 According to my refernces the C5OE head casting could be either a standard 
289 or a 289 Hi-Po. That goes for both the C5OE-A and C5OE-E (the only 
two C5OE head castings that my references list).For proper identification 
look for cast in dual spring seats ( The Hi-Po heads used dual valve 
springs) and push rod guide plate slots. You mentioned that at has new 
guide plates, are they set in cast in slots? The early standard 289 heads 
used a close tolerance pushrod hole in the casting to guide the pushrods 
and keep the railess rocker arms from walking off the valve tips ( Later 
engines used rocker arms with side rails at the valve tip and did not 
require the guides. I believe the HiPo's used the special guide plates to 
keep better control of the solid lifter valve train at high RPM's.

Also, the HiPo's should have 3/8 screw in rocker studs!

As to a fair price, I don't really know for sure. If they are truly HiPo 
heads they are certainly worth a several hundred dollars. Have you checked 
out Hemmings to see what people are asking?

BTW, I have a headless C4OE-F Hi-Po block with 5 bolt bell housing that is 
just waiting for the right heads! It must be worth a good bit to some 
one with that early K car or shelby!!!

Todd Houg : thoug@maroon.tc.umn.edu

----------
Posted by: "Todd Houg" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 02:10:11 1994
Subject: Re: aluminum rods
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> I would not have thought that the tensile loads are the cause of rod
-> failure in most cases

 The main loads seem to be in bending.  Conrod design is where a lot of
the references diverge.  Fortunately, the shank is secondary to the cap
attachment problems.
                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 01:22:34 1994
Subject: Wanted
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I am restoring a 64 Chev Impala, I would like to 
equipt this Impala with power windows. I don't
need glass, but need the motors, carriers, and 
wirering harnas.

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!cf021 (Otto Benning)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 10:46:19 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
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This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
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I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
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John
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----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 12:39:32 1994
Subject: plug wisdom...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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  Apologies in advance for burning bandwidth with these rookie
questions, but...

  Just acquired a '69 351W block with '75 heads. I bought a new
set of spark plugs for it... the same plugs that were already in
it... Champion RV15YC4, and got to wondering... what do these
plug designation numbers mean? What gap should I set them to?
What does it mean to use a "hotter" plug, and what performance
characteristic should tell me that my plugs are or aren't "hot"
enough? Do different plugs vary primarily in their spark intensity,
and can't you alter the intensity simply by altering the gap?
And lastly, when I was buying the new set of Champions, I saw
some Splitfire plugs on the shelf... seems like a good idea to
get a big, broad spark, but for six bucks each? Can they possibly
be worth four to six times the cost of other plugs?

  Thanks all...

----------
Posted by: emory!amp.com!dave.miller (Dave Miller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 12:50:06 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article 7swl@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>HEllo, 
>
>I'd like to see the specs from the owners of SLEEPER CARS on the net. 
>
>-brad decker 
>
>
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!lsil.com!brad (Brad Decker)


I don't own a sleeper myself, but at a dragrace last weekend I saw two:

The first was a completely stock looking mid-seventies Volvo 242. Even had
stock exhaust (single pipe, ofcourse). Ran 13.9 in the quarter. Big Turbo.

The second one was a shitty looking late seventies Toyota Corolla (!!). The
speaker said it had a 1280cc engine, and a BIIIIG turbo. I guess it must have
been a wankel engine (??). The car looked completely stock from the outside.
This little **** ran mid 11s!

Markus  

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 13:01:52 1994
Subject: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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What differences are there (if any?) between car and boat engines?  Obviously
the operating conditions for boats are slightly different than for cars.  Are
there any physical differences in the block/crank/cam/heads?  
My dad has a 1989 Arriva/Bayliner with a 350 Chevy which cracked during a hard
winter due to the engine not being drained.  Could a long-block from any of
these aftermarket engine builders be used as a replacement providing the proper
cam was used?

----------
Posted by: MATT 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 17:45:41 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article <7_+7z5d@dixie.com> The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:

:>Mike McCaughey wrote:
:>>I need a new baseplate since
:>>the idle adjust needle valve snapped off inside the plate and I can't
:>>get it out.

:>It may be less trouble to get the broken piece out than to find
:>a replacement baseplate.  Try a hardware store that sells to machine
:>shops - they sell chemicals that will eat a broken tap without
:>touching the aluminum that the tap is stuck in.  It usually takes
:>about a day for the chemical to eat enough of the broken tap to
:>free it so I would guess that a day would loosen your broken needle
:>enough to allow it to be removed.

	Failing that, Edelbrock is making repop Q-Jets now, and likely has
replacement parts.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11  - Zexy
kore wa NEC no iken dewa arimasen.    FOLMA #17    1973 RD350A - seized
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500  - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 17:54:34 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>In article 7swl@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>>HEllo, 
>>
>>I'd like to see the specs from the owners of SLEEPER CARS on the net. 
>>
>>-brad decker 

At the drag in the Trophy class there was a 74 Suburban that would run in
the high 11`s.. still looked stock execpt for the slicks on the back..and on
the side of suburban it said "Fat Rat"...

That suprised alot people...
---
Rick Lindstedt

rick@sparky.uark.edu
University of Arkansas - PHPL



----------
Posted by: emory!sparky.uark.edu!rick (The Crash-n-ator)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  1 17:59:38 1994
Subject:      Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8651
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Automobile engines can be swapped into marine applications, I speak from
experience. I almost bought a boat a few years back that had a car engine
dropped in after a freeze. The first thing that caught my eye was that
the dipstick was in the wrong place ( drivers side (when in the car)
instead of up fron as with Mercury Marine chevys). The worst part
was that the engine wouldn't pull above 3500 RPM. I'd guess that using the
old camshaft would eliminate that. I've heard in the past that Mercruiser
engines were all heavy duty with 4 bolt mains and forged cranks but that
in the past 5 years or so they had taken to using regular passenger car
engines with their minor mods. Hope someone else out there can elaborate
on this.

----------
Posted by: Bob Bigelow 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 01:50:26 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8652
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One of the times I was at LACR with my kids and a friend, a piece of shit
grey primer Nova came up to the starting line.  We figured it for some
teanagers car and expected at best 14's from it.  Damn thing took off
with front wheels off the track and turned a mid 8!  Had to go to the pits
to see that car....

----------
Posted by: emory!crl.com!stevel (Steven Lawson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 02:02:02 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8653
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-> >I'd like to see the specs from the owners of SLEEPER CARS on the
-> net.

 The best one I ever saw was in 1980; a '75 AMC Concord.  Four door,
bright blue with a white vinyl top and a receiver hitch in the back.
Disabled Veteran license plates, driven by a 70-year-old WWII vet.
Still had the original 258(?) inch six.  With a huge turbo, an
intercooler, water injection, *and* nitrous.  The old guy claimed it had
been built for him by Iskenderian and Spearco and made 550hp on the
dyno at 35 pounds of boost.  That's a believable figure for an
intercooled turbo on 93 octane leaded premium.  He used it to pull a 45
foot travel trailer.

 The next best was my brother's old '69 Nova.  It looked like something
someone had rescued from the crushers.  In fact, he DID rescue it from
the crushers.  Four different colors of primer where it wasn't rusted,
though it was reasonably straight.  After going through several small
block Chevy he dropped in a 455 Pontiac on Ventura mounts.  Punched to
472, dual quads, custom-ground Schneider cam, etc.  Kevin still has some
videotape of the car at the strip.  He managed to part a few people from
their money - people who'd beat him before - before they realized he
wasn't running a small block any more.

 Third best:  Any Buick Grand National or GNX.  Ken Mosher used to send
out Christmas cards with a photo showing his GN pulling the front
wheels off the ground.  Not bad for a cheesy little V6...
                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 02:13:06 1994
Subject: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> My dad has a 1989 Arriva/Bayliner with a 350 Chevy which cracked
-> during a hard winter due to the engine not being drained.  Could a
-> long-block from any of these aftermarket engine builders be used as a
-> replacement providing the proper cam was used?

 I have a Mercury Marine 350 Chevy I obtained for almost free from
a guy who let it freeze.  One sleeve and a fancy nickel welding rod
later and I had a nice motor for my '60 Chevy.

 Basically, changing the short block is fine.  Or changing BOTH heads is
fine.  The heads on my Mercury Marine motor don't match any GM casting
number, at least not a *car* number.  They look for all the world like
the late style Bowtie heads, except they're the thinwall scalloped-edge
castings.  Small 64cc quench chambers, 1.94 intakes, 1.50 exhausts (with
rotators!), and the ports are *gorgeous.*  They're actually slick, no
paste marks or kitty-litter sand cores, huge shortside radii, big bowls,
and the port mouth met the valve seat so well I didn't even bother to
fire up the grinder.  I don't have any flow figures, but if looks were
speed these would be 10 second heads.  One was cracked outside on the
water jacket, I welded it up.

 Other differences:  the early style thick beam rods instead of the late
model thin beam rods, 3/4 length windage tray, flat tappet cam (block
was set up for rollers, of course), *single* row roller timing chain, 6
quart oil pan, high rise iron spreadbore intake with no EGR provision.
There were a number of other small details, but I'd have to go to my
notes to see.
                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 12:29:07 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8655
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Forwarded message:
> I've heard in the past that Mercruiser
> engines were all heavy duty with 4 bolt mains and forged cranks but that
> in the past 5 years or so they had taken to using regular passenger car
> engines with their minor mods. Hope someone else out there can elaborate
> on this.

I had heard that the Corvette engines back around 83-87 or so were
being built at the Mercury Marine engine plant in Stillwater, Oklahoma,
where I went to undergrad (OSU).  Sounds heavy duty.


-- 
Randy Brown      SAS email:  randy@unx.sas.com   Work #: (919) 677-8000, x6852
SAS Institute    UNC email:  brown@cs.unc.edu    Home #: (919) 732-5458

----------
Posted by: Randy Brown 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 12:41:37 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8656
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        Reply to:   RE>>SLEEP CARS
[.... Third best:  Any Buick Grand National or GNX.  Ken Mosher used to send
out Christmas cards with a photo showing his GN pulling the front
wheels off the ground.  Not bad for a cheesy little V6...]

Hey, Hey, Hey! <*grin*>

Well, the "cheesy little V6" turned an 11.71 @ 115+ Friday night through the
mufflers.  Only 20 psi boost too.  This car is a blast ... it drives and
rides just like Gramma's Regal, I cruise up to the track with the cruise
control set, the stereo playing, kids in the back, wife putting the makeup on
in the vanity mirror on the visor, A/C on.  Power windows, seats, locks,
T-Tops, cruise, tilt, A/C, etc.

Get there, bolt on the slicks, turn up the fuel pressure, pour in the good
gas, and go racing!  Just for kicks we've been keeping some gas mileage
records ... 25 mpg on the highway, about 17 mpg around town (can't keep my
foot out of it!).  I also notice that if we take the T-Tops out, the mileage
drops a little ...

Unfortunately, the sleeper status around here is kind of a thing of the past.
 Too many people have seen the cars at the track.  That, and the fact that
Brady Perry terrorized the street scene around here for about a year with his
GN ... Stage II block, aluminum heads, big turbo, etc ... turned 10.20s at
the track, yet he'd put the stock wheels and cheesy little radials on it and
go make some money knocking off some pretty serious traditional street
racers.  Really embarrassed a beautiful trailored 396 '69 Camaro with NOS,
aluminum interior, tubbed ... really done right.  I'd seen the car turn
10.80s at the track.  Brady drove his GN up to the deserted stretch of
highway where they met (on slicks), uncapped the exhaust, punched in the
"race" program.  After they had unloaded and warmed up the Camaro, Brady
dusted the guy 3 out of 3 races, each by a little more as he adjusted the
program for the air... to the tune of about $300!  After that, anything that
said "Buick", was black, and had the turbo bulge on the hood must be "that
one that beat the Pro Street Camaro".  The story got better with the telling
... I've had people point to mine to say "that's the twin turbo one that beat
that 9 second Camaro" <*sigh*>

BTW, Brady drove his GN to work every day.... just punched up the "street"
program on his laptop and drove it.  He recently moved to Texas, drove the
car down ... got 26 mpg ... then sold it and drove it to Bowling Green, KY to
give it to the buyer (about 1500 miles) and got 25 mpg.  Amazing.


Ken Mosher (KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 12:54:39 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8657
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-> the dipstick was in the wrong place ( drivers side (when in the car)
-> instead of up fron as with Mercury Marine chevys). The worst part

 My Mercury Marine 350 has the dipstick on the passenger side.


-> old camshaft would eliminate that. I've heard in the past that
-> Mercruiser engines were all heavy duty with 4 bolt mains and forged
-> cranks

 Chevrolet dropped both the forged cranks and 4 bolt blocks in 1986/1987
when they went to the one piece rear main.  The 4 bolt block has
returned for 1994, but all 1-piece main Chevy cranks are still cast,
including the L98 and LT1 Corvette motors (which are 2 bolt, too).
                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 13:09:35 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8658
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In article <3c+7swl@dixie.com>, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> I'd like to see the specs from the owners of SLEEPER CARS on the net. 

Well, I haven't built this one yet, but if someone want to take this idea and
run with it...

Start with an early-80's Ford Fairmont wagon, light blue, with body rust. Since
it shares the same basic chassis (the Fox platform) with the Mustang III, bolt
in a bored 460 with one of the kits made to fit the Mustang.  Fill the back
with stuff so that it looks like you're on your way to the recycling center
(serves double-duty as ballast), pop on some rusted K-Mart wire wheel covers
onto widened steelies with sticky McCrearys on the back, and go out hunting.
Make sure that *one* exhaust pipe hangs prominently low, as if your exhaust
hanger had rusted out (I don't know if I've ever seen a car like this that
didn't have this). You can lighten it to your heart's content up front with a
hole-saw; but a warmed-over 460 could probably get you well into the twelves if
you can get some traction, and a spicier motor or one on nitrous would get you
even further down.

Wish I had the money and the time...

----------
Posted by: emory!bcvms.bc.edu!barryro
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 13:19:32 1994
Subject: Re: JAGUAR XJ/CHEVY TRANSPLANT
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>There is a publisher out of Livermore California called JTR which stands
>for Jaguar's That Run. He sels a book on doing engine conversions for
>Jaguar's. I only know this because he also sells one for S10's that is
>pretty decent in covering any possible problems.
>--
>Dean Waters                             E-Mail:  dwaters@interbase.borland.com

JTR's address is:

Jaguars That Run
P.O. Box 66
Livermore, CA 94550

I bought an (excellent) conversion manual for putting a Chevy small block into 
a 240-280Z a few years ago.  Hopefully, they're still in business and at the 
above address.  I know that Classic Motorbooks also sells the same manual I 
bought for the same ~$40 price that JTR charged. 

These guys seem to know how to do the conversions cleanly and for a reasonable 
amount of cash.  They also know how to do a CA-legal conversion.

Cheers,

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!paraska (Pete Paraska)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 19:01:27 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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> Chevrolet dropped both the forged cranks and 4 bolt blocks in 1986/1987
>when they went to the one piece rear main.  The 4 bolt block has
>returned for 1994, but all 1-piece main Chevy cranks are still cast,
>including the L98 and LT1 Corvette motors (which are 2 bolt, too).
 
So what applications use the 4-bolt main block today?  trucks or marine?

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  2 19:11:29 1994
Subject: a small tiny bit of humor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Sorry if this a charter violation, but I saw this on r.a.t, thought 
it might give y'all a chuckle


--- begin quote ---
From: denber@acsu.buffalo.edu (Michel Denber)
Subject: Re: Installing new bushes on control arm of Mazda 626
Organization: SUNY at Buffalo / Ctr for Document Analysis and Recog (CEDAR)
Date: Wed, 1 Jun 1994 16:50:44 GMT

> How hard is it to install new bushes on a 1985 Front wheel drive version of 
> this car?
> From what I have seen to date it doesn't look all that hard. Is there anything 
> in particular I should lookout for? 

Well, you have to be sure to water them.  Also be careful where you
park as some varieties don't like direct sunlight.  Forsythias are
nice, as are lilacs.  Yew and arborvitae might be hardier in the
winter though and will also provide excellent camouflage from Smokey
Bear.  Installation is straightforward.  Fill your trunk with dirt,
make a hole slightly larger than the root-ball, add a bit of
Miracle-Gro and you're in the bush league, so to speak.  On a
Mazda, you might prefer planting Banzais in window boxes though.
-- 
			- Michel
denber@cedar.buffalo.edu
--- end quote ---


Steve Ravet	sravet@bangate.compaq.com
"Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...."

----------
Posted by: emory!bangate.compaq.com!sravet
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 12:27:47 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> So what applications use the 4-bolt main block today?  trucks or
-> marine?

 The only one I've seen came out of a 1994 (March construction date)
1-ton Chevy full size van.  The GM parts book does not yet list a 4 bolt
service block.

 Don't know about marine.
                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 12:40:49 1994
Subject: Springnationals Ticket for sale..
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Hi,
The 1994 Springnationals are coming up!
The finals are Sunday June 12th.

I usually go to the Springnationals every year,but I can't go because of work
cIt's on the pit side,In the Winston(only the vips get better
seats)section,just past the starting line.It also includes a parking pass for
the spectator side right next to the spectator stands.
 The seat is great!It's up in the top corner of the stand
I'm hoping somebody can take this off my hands......
behind you and you can hang stuff on the back rails to get it out of the way.
 I'm asking 45 bucks or best offer.The ticket and parking permit cost me over
SIXTY dollars.Email me and I'll call you at home or work.
  Thanks,       
  Barry Felstein,using Brad's acct.

----------
Posted by: emory!uoft02.utoledo.edu!cscon0151 (Brad Steinman, N8ZRP)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 12:52:07 1994
Subject:  Quick GN
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article , you write...
>        Reply to:   RE>>SLEEP CARS
>[.... Third best:  Any Buick Grand National or GNX.  Ken Mosher used to send
>out Christmas cards with a photo showing his GN pulling the front
>wheels off the ground.  Not bad for a cheesy little V6...]
> 
>Hey, Hey, Hey! <*grin*>
> 
>Well, the "cheesy little V6" turned an 11.71 @ 115+ Friday night through the
>mufflers.  Only 20 psi boost too.  This car is a blast ... it drives and
>rides just like Gramma's Regal, I cruise up to the track with the cruise
>control set, the stereo playing, kids in the back, wife putting the makeup on
>in the vanity mirror on the visor, A/C on.  Power windows, seats, locks,
>T-Tops, cruise, tilt, A/C, etc.
> 
>Get there, bolt on the slicks, turn up the fuel pressure, pour in the good
>gas, and go racing!  Just for kicks we've been keeping some gas mileage
>records ... 25 mpg on the highway, about 17 mpg around town (can't keep my
>foot out of it!).  I also notice that if we take the T-Tops out, the mileag>

What have you done to your GN to get in the 11.7's?

I have a GN too. It doesn't have the power windows (will install it this
summer) or the T-tops. I've run 12.19 sec @ 110+ last year. I've installed
the Ruggles turbo, ATR 3" downpipe, polyurethane bushings in rear control
arms, and battery in trunk this spring. I went one range colder on the plugs.
I've been running 43's until now. Just put 42's in. Should make it to the 
track in a couple of weeks. The rest of your story is identical to my 
experiences. Drive out, race, drive home (cruise, stereo,  sometimes air). 
Haven,t popped the valve covers yet. I've been following Red Armstrong's 
modifications which were itemized in a GSCA newsletter. Running his chips 
(street and strip) and fuel pump. It is a fun car. Just curious about what
others are doing to make their turbo Buicks faster. 

              John Gyekenyesi (msgyek@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov)
> 
>Ken Mosher (KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com)
> 
>----------
>Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 

----------
Posted by: emory!ARIEL.LERC.NASA.GOV!MSGYEK
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 13:33:46 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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At least one brand new GM application has 
   - 4 bolt main block w/ one piece r.m.s. ( #10105123 )
   - Forged 1053 steel one piece r.m.s. crankshaft ( #14096036 )

and a great many other goodies.  That is the #10185072, better known 
as the ZZ3 replacement motor.

And it sure can waste tires!  My ZZ3/4L60 '64 Chevelle is coming along
fairly well.  I've had a hard time finding Thermoquad tuning parts,
have no choke, and am very familir with the Edelbrock carbs, so
one is in the mail.  I have been unable to find a fan shroud at a 
reasonable price, so I am going to dual big electric fans just a bit
earlier than I (err, my wallet) wanted to.


Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 14:21:48 1994
Subject: Mercruiser and GM
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>I had heard that the Corvette engines back around 83-87 or so were
>being built at the Mercury Marine engine plant in Stillwater, Oklahoma,
>where I went to undergrad (OSU).  Sounds heavy duty.


Actually the only Corvette engine built by Mercruiser was the ZR1 motor.
Mercury Marine built all of the ZR1's from casting to assembly.

As for the New LT1 that is still GM.

See ya
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 14:28:34 1994
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-22*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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My apologies for being late again. This time it really was my fault,
sorry.

If you happen to see a fat guy wearing a USS WISCONSIN hat wondering
around Dover this weekend, please toss him a beer. He'll definitely
appreciate it.

Keep the dirty side down. - Bill
----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

Now in its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation of 
info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, my 
favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks also to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated no later than every Friday morning and will 
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your 
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day 
window.

As mentioned previously, this listing is now being submitted to the new 
group rec.autos.sport.info.  Assuming the moderators approve, this list 
will be available in the r.a.s.i group from now on.  In an attempt to 
get the word to as many r.a.s readers as possible, I will continue to 
cross-post to r.a.s for a short time. (This again assumes the moderators 
of r.a.s.i do not object to my doing so.)

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

Speed Racer (cartoon)                 06/04    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (coolant&oil leaks)06/04    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             06/04    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Barcelona)       06/04    12:00-12:30PM    ESPN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (L)                   06/04    1:00-3:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/04    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/04    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
IHRA Hall Of Fame Ceremonies          06/04    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/04    4:00-4:30PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             06/04    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
AMA, ROAD RACING (T)                  06/04    7:00-8:00PM      HTS
Motor Sports Hour                     06/04    8:00-9:00PM      HTS
ASA, ODESSA (L)                       06/04    9:00-11:00PM   HTS,PSN,
								MSG
Power Wheels                          06/04    10:30-11:30PM    ESPN2
Motoworld                             06/05    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             06/05    7:30-8:00AM      ESPN
Auto Shop                             06/05    8:00-10:00AM     QVC
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/05    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/05    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners                   06/05    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/05    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/05    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/05   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (L)                06/05    12:00-4:30PM     TNN
INDYCAR, MILWAUKEE (L)                06/05    4:00-6:00PM      ABC [1]
N Bonnett's Winners                   06/05    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
NHRA, MOPAR NATIONALS, ENGLISHTOWN (T)06/05    5:00-6:00PM      NBC
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/05    5:00-5:30PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (TRUCK INTERIORS)  06/05    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
SCCA TRANS-AM, MID-OHIO (T)           06/05    7:30-9:30PM  SCP,PSNW,
					    SCNE,SUN,PSN,PASS,HTS,SPTS
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/05    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/05    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/05    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      06/05    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/05   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    06/06    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
SWAMP BUGGY RACING (T)                06/06    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
USAC, SATURDAY NIGHT THUNDER (T)      06/06    4:00-5:30AM      ESPN
Movie: Winning                        06/07    2:30-5:30AM      WBFF
INDYCAR, MILWAUKEE (T)                06/07    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed                      06/08    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
AMA, ROAD RACING (T)                  06/09    2:00-3:00PM   HTS,PRTK
				   HSE,KBL,PSNW,SUN,MSG,PSN,PASS,EMPS
Motor Sports Hour                     06/09    3:00-4:00PM      HTS
				       MSG,PSN,SUN,PSNW,EMPS,HSE,PASS
In The Driver's Seat ??               06/09    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/09    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (240SX & Sonata)            06/09    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
AMA, ROAD RACING (T)                  06/09    9:00-10:00PM     HTS
Motor Sports Hour                     06/09    10:00-11:00PM  HTS,SUN,
							 PSN,PASS,EMPS
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/09   11:00PM-12:00AM  EMPS,HTS,
						PRTK,PSN,PSNW,SCOH,SPTS
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, MONACO (T)          06/10    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Motoworld II                          06/10    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

POCONO SPORTSMAN 150 & ARCA 150 (L)   06/11   11:00AM-2:30PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, MYRTLE BEACH (L)            06/11    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    1:30-4:00PM      CBC
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    2:00-4:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, DETROIT (L)                  06/12    2:00-4:30PM      ABC [1]
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               06/12    12:00-4:00PM     TNN
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (T)                06/12    tba              ABC
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, KIRKERSVILLE(?)06/12    tba              tba
PORSCHE CUP, SPAIN (T)                06/18    12:30PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             06/19    1:00PM           CBS
BUSCH GN, WATKINS GLEN (L)            06/25    2:00-4:00PM      TNN
ASA, BRAINERD (L)                     06/26    2:00-4:30PM      TNN
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (L)                 06/26    4:00-6:30PM      ESPN [1]
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (L)           06/26    6:00-7:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)              07/02    11:00AM          ESPN
FORMULA 1, FRANCE (L)                 07/03    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
BUSCH GN, MILWAUKEE (?)               07/03    tba              tba
ASA, CEDAR RAPIDS (L)                 07/04    tba              TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/06   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/07   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/08   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, GREAT BRITAIN (L)          07/10    8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, LOUDON (L)               07/10    1:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                07/10    1:30-3:30PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, S. BOSTON (?)               07/16    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               07/17    12:30PM          TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L)                  07/17    2:00-4:00PM      NBC [1]
PORSCHE CUP, FRANCE (T)               07/17    5:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               07/23    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, TALADEGA (L)             07/24    12:15PM          CBS
PORSCHE CUP, BRITAIN (T)              07/24    12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, MORRISON(?)07/24    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, GERMANY (L)                07/31    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 07/31    tba              tba
INDYCAR, BROOKLYN, MI (L)             07/31    12:00-3:30PM     ESPN [1]
ASA, TOPEKA (L)                       07/31    tba              TNN
NHRA, NATIONALS, SEARS POINT (?)      07/31    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (?)            08/05    tba              tba
BRICKYARD 400 (L)                     08/06    12:00PM          ABC
NHRA, NATIONALS, KENT (?)             08/07    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races (the Indy 500 & Long 
Beach will not be shown this year).  The races are usually broadcast on 
a tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening following the race.  I 
understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to delay the broadcast as 
much as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so please use extra caution if 
you plan to tape the race.  If you have access to it, and your French 
isn't too rusty, you may also want to check out RDS which used to 
broadcast each F1 race live. (I don't know for sure if they still do).  
Thanks to Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
CBC      Canadian Broadcasting
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
QVC      home shopping
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SPTS     Sport South Network
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WOR      New York "Super Station"
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 17:45:16 1994
Subject: Fast Gn's
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8668
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

 
>What have you done to your GN to get in the 11.7's?
>
>I have a GN too. It doesn't have the power windows (will install it this
>summer) or the T-tops. I've run 12.19 sec @ 110+ last year. I've installed
>the Ruggles turbo, ATR 3" downpipe, polyurethane bushings in rear control
>arms, and battery in trunk this spring. I went one range colder on the plugs.
>I've been running 43's until now. Just put 42's in. Should make it to the 
>track in a couple of weeks. The rest of your story is identical to my 
>experiences. Drive out, race, drive home (cruise, stereo,  sometimes air). 
>Haven,t popped the valve covers yet. I've been following Red Armstrong's 
>modifications which were itemized in a GSCA newsletter. Running his chips 
>(street and strip) and fuel pump. It is a fun car. Just curious about what
>others are doing to make their turbo Buicks faster. 
>
>              John Gyekenyesi (msgyek@ariel.lerc.nasa.gov)
>> 
>
   John, 
   Ken has done lots of internals to his..  
   on the plugs your using, try the AC CR42TS plugs.  Center and ground
electrodes are twice as wide as regular R42ts's.  They seem to move
the heat away from the tip faster, eliminating pinging and I have seen
them make the difference of as much as 2 tenths over the R42TS's.
Subscribe to the gnttype mailing list too as it has a lot of good
threads on mods.  Also, a good "recipe" for getting to Ken's times.
just send to:  gnttype-request@monsanto.com  (or maybe it's
request-gnttype) I think the first is right.
Take care,
Dave Cooley
cooldave@davasha.win.net
 

----------
Posted by: emory!davasha.win.net!cooldave (David Cooley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 17:57:43 1994
Subject: Re: Quick GN
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8669
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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        Reply to:   RE>Quick GN
[...What have you done to your GN to get in the 11.7's?...]

Ruggles (ATR Stage IIIA turbo), home head porting, mild cam, ATR 3" downpipe,
ATR Stainless exhaust system with UltraFlow mufflers, Red's chips, red stripe
injectors.... basic Recipe car.  You should join the GN/T-Type mailing list
... send a subscription request to:

gnttype@buick.monsanto.com

We have an archive out on a server that you can ftp lots of GN/T-Type
pictures, tech articles, etc.  I have my "Recipe" on the server, and maintain
the tech directory.  Lots of good info.

[...I've run 12.19 sec @ 110+ last year..]

Good running car then ... mine went 12.0s @ 111-112 in the similar trim @
1400 ft. altitude (it had my home ported heads, but stock turbo).  The car
went 12.32 @ 109+ with everything stock 3 years ago (turbo, heads, etc).

[...Just put 42's in....]

Those are great for the track... watch them though.  Some people have trouble
with them loading up with around town driving.

 
[...Just curious about what others are doing to make their turbo Buicks
faster....]

I'll E-mail you the Recipe. 

Ken Mosher (KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun  3 18:08:16 1994
Subject: Ford roller blocks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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        I vaguely remember that it is possible to modify a regular Ford 302 
     block to accept the factory roller lifters.  I think someone (in a 
     forgotten article) wrote that you could sleeve the lifter bores.  I 
     know you can buy $400 kits from Crane and the like.  Has anyone 
     converted a flat-tappet block to use factory roller lifters?  I figure 
     I could also buy a 5.0, but isn't the roller block a Mustang only 
     item?  Those fetch a premium in our wrecking yards.
     
        Thanks for any help,
     
        Terrill
        Terrill_Yuhas@smtpsc1.sc.pima.gov

----------
Posted by: emory!smtpsc1.sc.pima.gov!Terrill_Yuhas
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jun  4 01:32:53 1994
Subject: Re: SLEEP CARS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Well, in my younger days I did get a bit silly.  After spending a day
sitting in the sun, bench racing with copious amounts of the amber fluid
and having a Fiat Bambina with 19 cracks in the block and a recently
rebuilt flathead V8 sitting in the garage, the answer seemed rather
obvious.

For those of you not familiar with the Bambina, it's sort of a 1/2 scale
VW beetle with a 500cc motor and many rattles.  Before I knew it, the
steel had been ordered and was sitting in the driveway and all those
that thought it was a good idea had disappeared.  So now I know.  IT CAN
BE DONE !

I got as far as a few drives around the block before deciding that it
should be scraped.  As I said, these were my younger days and the
engineering was just not good enough.  But man, did it fly.  The body
was completely stock looking with the standard ride height and ap art
from the non-standard sound, the first thing that gave it away was the
lack of a driver and a single passenger in the back.  The motor sat
right up front over a narrowed Viva (English car) independant front end
with R&P steering and disks.  A 4-speed box from a MkIII Zephyr with the
tail shaft housing shortened and a V8 Falcon diff.  The radiator was at
the rear (where the 500cc engine had been) with airflow being directed
up from under the car and out the back.

I couldn't say I was proud of it but I'll never forget the expressions
on peoples faces.  That was worth all the $$$'s for the memory.

Steve.

----------
Posted by: emory!kcbbs.gen.nz!Steve_Baldwin (Steve Baldwin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun  5 12:13:57 1994
Subject: Ford roller blocks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> know you can buy $400 kits from Crane and the like.  Has anyone
-> converted a flat-tappet block to use factory roller lifters?

 My advice would be not to worry about it.  The street roller cams
designed for the 5.0s can't match the efficiency of the flat tappet
cams.  This is due to the limits on the roller's acceleration on the cam
ramps.  With modern motor oils there's not enough longevity difference
to worry about, either.

 If you absolutely insist on a roller and you're building a high
performance motor, it'd be cheaper and simpler to call Chet Herbert or
Comp Cams and buy a regular roller cam and lifters to fit your 302
block.  It would be solid instead of hydraulic, but adjusting the valves
once a year is no big deal.
                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun  5 18:42:14 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article  you write:
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: Marine engines
>Date: Wed, 01 Jun 94 15:36:25 GMT
>What differences are there (if any?) between car and boat engines?  Obviously
>the operating conditions for boats are slightly different than for cars.  Are
>there any physical differences in the block/crank/cam/heads?  
>My dad has a 1989 Arriva/Bayliner with a 350 Chevy which cracked during a hard
>winter due to the engine not being drained.  Could a long-block from any of
>these aftermarket engine builders be used as a replacement providing the proper
>cam was used?
>
>----------
>Posted by: MATT 
     Matt a long block could be used!   A GM marine type block would be of 
the 4 bolt style for the extra stress that the block sees.   As far as the 
internals go! Use a cam with a grind for marine use.  also the wate pump 
would be of a short style.(ie off a corvett).
     most after market builders will build the motor to a marine spec..

----------
Posted by: emory!nbnet.nb.ca!stevensb (sc,distributors)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun  5 18:50:17 1994
Subject: TIMESLIPS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I have an '89 Mustang LX hatchback that is supercharged with some other
mods, and I wanted to ask questions about timeslips.  At my track in
Ennis, TX (around 7-800ft alt) on ZR rated street tires I ran a 13.1 at
107.5mph, with a 2.15 60ft time.  The fastest mph I have gotten so far
has been a 109 (I have only run the car 5 times with this setup).  Any
estimates on what I should be running with actual traction?  Depending
on the temperature/humidity sometimes I can't even fully get into it
until 3rd gear, othertimes I am WOT all through 2nd (the supercharger is
really touchy when it comes to the weather).  The car is a 5-speed, with
3.27 gears, and I would say weighs 200lbs more than it did when I first
bought it (+ I am 165lbs)... all runs were with around a 1/4 tank of
gas.

Also will someone send me some info on the GIF files that can be
requested?  I have some interesting car GIFs to donate also....

                                        --Eric
                                 Eric.Hedstrom@Chrysalis.Org


 * SLMR 2.1a * Will Race for Food

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Posted by: emory!chrysalis.org!eric.hedstrom
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun  5 23:47:36 1994
Subject: 280zx v8 swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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	I would like some general info on this small block chevy swap.  Which
car (240,260,or280) is best for this swap.  I am not concerned about
emissions, I am concerned with how it fits in the car.  How does the car
handle with the Chevy small block engine in it?  Is the
kit for it a bolt in kit or is cutting on the firewall etc. required?  Is
it worth it.  Any other info is greatly appreciated.

----------
Posted by: emory!whale.st.usm.edu!cjenkins (Carolyn Ann Lago Jenkins)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 03:06:46 1994
Subject: re:Pete Paraska
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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  hey Pete I was wondering if you did do a chevy conversion on a 240-280 car.
Could you give me some info on this.  Like is there any cutting required
on the firewall etc.  How does it handle.  Does it require a lot of
fabrication or any other info you would like to share with me. I would really
appreciate it. Also at this time I do not have a z car but plan on
purchasing one if it is worth the swap. Thanks!
please e-mail me a response at cjenkins@whale.st.usm.edu
thanks Clint.
p.s.  I tried to mail this directly to you but it did not work, hope you
don't mind.

----------
Posted by: emory!whale.st.usm.edu!cjenkins (Carolyn Ann Lago Jenkins)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 03:12:22 1994
Subject: Carbon_kevlar shoes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8677
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Carbon-kevlar brake shoes; Inital report
 
        i purchased a set of the carbon-kevlar rear brake SHOES
for my 86 Mustang. This is the inital report of how they "feel".
 
        I've been running the carbon-kevlar pads up front for several
years now, both with the smaller 86 rotors, and then with the bigger
87 rotors I put on the car. I've always liked the way they work, even
if they are a bit noisy, and dusty. While I've had the c-k's up front,
the raybestos shoes on the rear have managed to stay in a like-new
condition, as all the work was done by the fronts. the rears have been
along for the ride.
        I received the carbon-kevlar shoes last week and installed them
over the weekend.
 
SHOE DESCRIPTION
- 1/4 inch thick material
- bonded, not riveted to the metal backing
- no difference in the leading or following shoe, both are the same
- not one solid piece of c-k, but several squares bonded beside eachother
 
INSTALLATION
        The manufacturer (Porterfield) recommended either new drums or
a fresh turn on the drum. I happened to have a set of new drums, so I
used them.
        Standard installation practice. No surprises,,,,unless you have
a reluctant drum that doesn't want to come off, like I had. Heavy blows
with a knock-off hammer sprong it loose.
 
INITAL ROAD TEST
        Instructions said to perform a number of hard non-lock-up stops
from moderate speed to seat them in. the hard part was NOT to lock up
the rears. as they bedded, the bias became more balanced, moving back
toward the front.
        I can hear all 4 tires grabbing the road during hard stops, where
previously the fronts were doing all the work. Feel is good. I'm initally
very happy with the choice, now that all 4 corners seem to contributing
to the car stopping. No high speed stops yet. No fade test performed.
I have a National Tour event next weekend (Norfolk) followed by a track
event over July 2/3/4 at Summit. I should have better fade data after
the track event.                                          
        I do feel that now an adjustable proportioning valve would
have something to do. I'll see how the car does at the NT, and determine
if I should install one prior to the track event at Summit.
 

--
****************************************************************************
Tom Stangler                QC Mngr, TRACOR Applied Sciences, Chesapeake Ops
Va Beach, VA                                  Tidewater Sports Car Club, LTD
stangle@infi.net                                            tsccnet@infi.net
86 Mustang GT, C/P                           Nat'l Tour, Norfolk VA, June 94

----------
Posted by: emory!infi.net!stangle (Tom Stangler)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 03:18:52 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #205 (June 05, 1994)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8678
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>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: TIMESLIPS
>
>
>
>I have an '89 Mustang LX hatchback that is supercharged with some other
>mods, and I wanted to ask questions about timeslips.  At my track in
>Ennis, TX (around 7-800ft alt) on ZR rated street tires I ran a 13.1 at
>107.5mph, with a 2.15 60ft time.  The fastest mph I have gotten so far
>has been a 109 (I have only run the car 5 times with this setup).  Any
>estimates on what I should be running with actual traction?  Depending
>on the temperature/humidity sometimes I can't even fully get into it
>until 3rd gear, othertimes I am WOT all through 2nd (the supercharger is
>really touchy when it comes to the weather).  The car is a 5-speed, with
>3.27 gears, and I would say weighs 200lbs more than it did when I first
>bought it (+ I am 165lbs)... all runs were with around a 1/4 tank of
>gas.
>
>                                        --Eric
>                                 Eric.Hedstrom@Chrysalis.Org
>
   Eric,
   Glad to see ya here!
   From your MPH and 60ft times, I see there is a lot of ET improvement
to be made from traction.  Figure a good High rpm launch with sticky
tires and traction devices (IE: bars) should drop the 60 ft times down
to 1.72 or so.  That is .4 sec in the first 60 ft.  From those MPH's
the et's should be in the mid 12 second range  I think the stang is
lighter than the GN (3550 lbs) and on the buicks, 107 mph is about
12.60's with good traction.
Good luck and take care,
Dave Cooley
cooldave@davasha.win.net
 

----------
Posted by: emory!davasha.win.net!cooldave (David Cooley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 12:23:35 1994
Subject: Re: TIMESLIPS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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        Reply to:   RE>TIMESLIPS
[...I have an '89 Mustang LX hatchback that is supercharged with some other
mods, and I wanted to ask questions about timeslips.  At my track in
Ennis, TX (around 7-800ft alt) on ZR rated street tires I ran a 13.1 at
107.5mph, with a 2.15 60ft time.  The fastest mph I have gotten so far
has been a 109 (I have only run the car 5 times with this setup).  Any
estimates on what I should be running with actual traction?...]

Well, turbo Buickdom, 109 mph with decent traction is good for 12.40s-50s. 
Depends heavily on what kind of sixty foot time you can pull.  Looking back
thru some old time slips I see a 12.32 @ 109.9 with a 1.69 sixty foot time. 
I see several with 1.66-68 sixty foot times and 12.40-50 times slips and
108-109 mph.  My car is about 3600 lbs. and now runs 11.70s with 1.65-1.70
sixty foot times.  The car has done 12.0s at 110 with 1.53 short times.

Ken Mosher (KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 14:05:50 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8680
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There's a '67 Dodge in the NY area that could be had ("for restoration or
hotrodding only") pretty cheaply, as I understood it. For more info or a 
contact, send me a note.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 14:16:44 1994
Subject: EFI diagnosis - where to get info?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8681
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I need some help diagnosing a '87 IROC with the 305 TPI.  

Seems the computer won't turn on the main cooling fan (at any temp).

The fan definitly works.

One shop could not get the computer to go into its self test mode (after 
they replaced the temp sensor ).  According to them the next thing to check 
is the "check engine light driver circuit".  I ask if the check engine 
light comes on when you start the car.  They say yes, so I say the driver 
circuit is working, They say " but the chart says this is the next thing to 
check...it'll cost $400 because half the dash needs to be dissassebled" I 
say stop work thanks anyway.

This is not my car (my sister's actually).  So I need a source with error 
codes etc and diagnostic techniques on the GM computer.

Can anyone recommend any books?

Is there a FAQ anywhere on the computer and its diagnostic codes - where is 
the diagnositic pin anyway?

What about an adress for the Camaro/Firebird list? (is this a good place to 
post the question).

Since this is marginally within the charter please send mail directly to me 
if possible.  Thanks for any help.

Dirk
OADDAB@stdvax.gsfc.nasa.gov.

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 17:47:08 1994
Subject: AutoNotes #14
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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=====================================================================
AutoNotes #14, 06/06/94                   copr. 1994, Dave Williams
---------------------------------------------------------------------
        CIS: 72571,3542      dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
               The Courts of Chaos BBS, (501)985-0059
    usenet mailing list and paper mail subscriptions are available
=====================================================================
           ==================================================
 Big Brother Is Watching You:  Jerome Lemelson of New York patented a
parking meter that radios the police when your time expires.
           ==================================================
 Big Brother Is *Really* Watching You:  Nissan's AP-X show car has a
dashboard-mounted camera continuously monitoring the driver's face.
If the onboard computer decides you look sleepy, it sounds an alarm
and emits a stench to wake you up.
           ==================================================
 Jaguar's new anti-theft package consists of microdots - real, James
Bond type microdots - with the vehicle's serial number.  You scatter
the microdots all around the car.  Jaguar says there are so many of
the dots and they're so hard to find, that criminals would never find
them all.  One wonders if the police could find them either.
           ==================================================
 Remember re-refined oil?  The super-cheap sludge you used to put into
your old beater to fog mosquitoes with?  It's back!  The new kid on
the block is Enviroil.  Yum, yum.  They're claiming a SG/CD rating and
the API Energy Conservation II rating.  Packaged in convenient green
bottles so your enviro-Nazi friends know you're doing your part for
the Cause.
           ==================================================
 Dow Chemical has developed a new type of paint.  It's based on a
relative of Teflon, and is said to be resistant to bird shit (hey,
don't laugh, it can eat right through to the metal!), bugs, tar, and
the usual auto grunge.  They're also working on a variant to paint
subway and telephone equipment - Dow says most graffiti will wipe
right off.  No word yet on the actual product name.
           ==================================================
 Rankinton Stainless Steels Ltd. of England has introduced a new
coolant called (gag) FORLIFE, all caps.  It has been marketed in
Europe for seven years under both the Carburol FORLIFE and Toyota
brand names.  It has corrosion inhibitors, antifreeze properties to -
20F, boils at 220F, has a recommended change interval of five years,
and costs $14 per gallon.  And you don't mix it with water - the major
selling point is that you use it straight.  My handy Chilton's manual
shows the average car uses between 5 and 7 gallons of coolant.  Lots
of Americans live in places where -20F protection is no protection at
all, and 235F thermostats aren't all that uncommon on modern cars.
I'm afraid Rankinton's product doesn't look so hot.
           ==================================================
 According to Harper's Index as quoted in R&T, the average American
spends six months of his entire lifetime waiting at red lights.
           ==================================================
 The four-valve heads on the Aston Martin Virage were developed by
Callaway, of turbo Corvette fame.  The British are normally very
inbred with their designs.  Strange Cosworth or Weslake or Ricardo
didn't design the heads.
           ==================================================
 Mustang owners may have to worry about dogs chewing their air dams,
but even GM owners are at risk in California's Sequouia National Park.
Squirrelly things called marmots have damaged parked vehicles by
gnawing radiator hoses and wiring.  And if you go to Yellowstone, the
bears just eat your whole car.  Suddenly the 5 o'clock rush doesn't
look so bad any more.
           ==================================================
 A group calling themselves the Highway Loss Data Institute claims
they have done a study which shows no statistical drop in wrecks of
ABS-equipped vehicles as compared to non-ABS-equipped vehicles.
Before putting too much faith into this sort of data, remember a lot
of people have a completely unrealistic (not to say outright bizarre)
idea of what ABS can do, and who knows who the "Highway Loss Data
Institute" is, anyway?  Remember the important-sounding "Institute"
that staged the fake GM truck fires in 1991?  The NHTSA's figures are
skewed enough, I put no faith at all in unknown organizations.
           ==================================================
 GM says it will start offering daytime running lights on its '95
models.  I really don't like this idea at all, no matter how wonderful
the Scandinavian countries and Canada think it is.  The idea is, you
have a driver who's so mindless he can't see another car in the road
in broad daylight, but if the other guy's headlights are on, he'll see
him fine.  There ought to be plenty of motorcycle data since 1973
(when the wired-on headlight was mandated) to show this is absolute
bullshit, but it's a *safety* thing, and you can't possibly be
*against* safety, can you?
  You'll know me on the highway - I'll be the one flipping my lights
at the '95s - "Hey, asshole - your headlights are on!"
           ==================================================
 Achtung, mate:  BMW just bought 80% of Rover.  Honda owns the other
20%.  BMW now has rights to all the Rover, MG, Triumph, Austin, Riley,
Range Rover, and other names and products.  Honda is reportedly
annoyed at being partnered with BMW and is expected to sell off its
holdings.
           ==================================================
 Mercedes-Benz has bought a chunk of Ilmor.
           ==================================================
 The new-generation GM 3800 V6 (now almost a completely different
motor from the old 231) gets even more changes for next year - deck
height is to drop one inch, (say bye-bye to those nice long rods)
cross-bolted main caps, new balance shaft bearings, redesigned oil
galleries and new timing cover.  The advertised numbers are
205hp@5200, 230ft-lb@4000.  That's fairly high RPM for modern Detroit
V engines, but the peak figures compare favorably to the 5.0 Ford and
Chevy V8s.
           ==================================================
 Back in the mid-'70s I doodled out a set of motorcycle-type reed
valves in the intake port of a heavily-cammed four stroke.  It
would've reduced reversion a lot.  Like many other thinks I've
doodled, it never went anywhere.  Back in the early '80s Alfa Romeo
invented it on their own, and were going to put it into production.
They even claimed they'd patented it, though I'm not sure it's a
patentable idea.  Warp ahead to 1994, and Alfa Romeo is issuing press
releases - they've just invented the reed valve intake port *again.*
Duh.  Wha' happen?
           ==================================================
 Toyota's AXV-V show car has a hydraulically-actuated air brake on the
roof.  Big deal - it won't slow a car much at any legal speed in most
countries.
           ==================================================
 Mercedes-Benz and pistonmaker Mahle (they also make pistons for
Harley-Davidson) have invented a variable-compression piston.  It uses
oil pressure to adjust the height of the piston deck in relation to
the wristpin.  Mercedes says "it could be used on future production
engines."  I'd lay my money the other way - you'd have to feed the oil
through the rod, meaning sealing or continually compensating for
losses around the bearings.  You'd have the weight of the oil in the
piston, plus the problems of the oil coking due to the heat.  You'd
need to feed each rod off a separate main journal, and control the
pressure to each main individually.  You could probably use a
combustion pressure sensor to tell how high the dome was at any given
time.  Nah, I don't think it's worth it.
           ==================================================
 If you've ever worked on a British car you've probably noticed they
won't use one coarse-thread bolt when they can use two or three fine
thread studs, a flat washer, a lock washer, and a nut.  The Brits seem
to have a thing for multiplicities - double decker buses, dual gas caps
on Jaguars, three windshield wipers in MGs, etc.
           ==================================================
 I don't know who's responsible, but the new BMWs and Mercedes look
like they were styled by the same guy - I have trouble telling them
apart when I meet them on the highway.  Of course with today's toilet
trout styling, I have trouble identifying most cars I meet on the
highway.  Detroit's stylists have finally succeeded in making the AMC
Matador look good.  No mean feat.  Probably the best looking of the
newer cars are the large Cadillacs.  I can't believe I said that...
           ==================================================

=====================================================================
  AutoNotes is published irregularly as the mood hits.  Contains no
  cyclamates, backwards-masked messages, FNORDs, or recycled fibers.
=====================================================================
               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 17:57:41 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article  The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:

:>-> So what applications use the 4-bolt main block today?  trucks or
:>-> marine?

:> The only one I've seen came out of a 1994 (March construction date)
:>1-ton Chevy full size van.  The GM parts book does not yet list a 4 bolt
:>service block.

	Hmm...my service manual shows a pic of a 454 block in it.  The
drawing shows 4-bolt mains.

	So, does the modern 454 have 4 bolts or doesn't it?

	And, since it has to be asked, under what conditions do you really
*need* 4 bolt mains?  Has anyone ever spun a bearing in a 2 bolt engine that
would not have spun in a 4 bolt engine?  How do you know?

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11  - Zexy
kore wa NEC no iken dewa arimasen.    FOLMA #17    1973 RD350A - seized
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500  - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 18:02:08 1994
Subject: 280zx v8 swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8684
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Part of the Z-Car's FAQ, which resides on John's mail server, contains
a section which describes this conversion in some detail (I wrote it :-)

To use the mail file server, send mail to listserv@dixie.com.  In the 
BODY of the message include the following line:

send zcar v8


--

Paul

       ________
      /______ /    
            //          Paul Richer
        __ //_          paulr@lsid.hp.com
       /__ __/          Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
         //             '71 240Z <- 350 Chevy
        //______        '72 510
       /_______/        

----------
Posted by: Paul A. Richer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun  6 18:53:19 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8685
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In article  you wrote:
:>There's a '67 Dodge in the NY area that could be had ("for restoration or
:>hotrodding only") pretty cheaply, as I understood it. For more info or a 
:>contact, send me a note.


	Aw, shit.  Don't do this to me.  What info do you have?

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11  - Zexy
kore wa NEC no iken dewa arimasen.    FOLMA #17    1973 RD350A - seized
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500  - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna	(Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 00:52:59 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8686
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-> Hmm...my service manual shows a pic of a 454 block in it.  The
-> drawing shows 4-bolt mains.

 We were talking about small blocks, Chris.


-> So, does the modern 454 have 4 bolts or doesn't it?

 I don't know if the Mark V has four bolts.  Frankly, I never bothered
to look.


-> And, since it has to be asked, under what conditions do you really
-> *need* 4 bolt mains?  Has anyone ever spun a bearing in a 2 bolt
-> engine that would not have spun in a 4 bolt engine?  How do you know?

  I'm not convinced four bolts are necessarily any better than two.
Of course, I like overkill and four or six bolts, cross bolts, or main
ladders are just great in my opinion.

 In the case of the small block Chevy, both Jenkins and Yunick have made
quite a case for avoiding factory four bolt blocks, as they tend to
crack through into the water jackets at the outer bolts.  Then again,
that's 20+ year old information.
                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 01:03:40 1994
Subject: Re: EFI diagnosis - where to get info?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8687
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
writes:

>This is not my car (my sister's actually).  So I need a source with
error 
>codes etc and diagnostic techniques on the GM computer.

If I am not mistaken (someone please correct me if I am wrong), but
you can buy a GM diagnosic checker at Sears....
 
I think they are less than $60.00 or so...

Jeff

----------
Posted by: emory!aol.com!jfeige (JFeige)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 03:31:16 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #179 (May 24, 1994)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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 From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: Warranties
>
>Dave Cooley wrote:
>>It was stated
>>that "No aftermarket parts can void any part of a warranty unless it can
>>be proven without a doubt that the aftermarket product was the sole
>>cause of said failure".
>
>No doubt that official truly believes this, but his opinion does not
>have the force of law.  In other words, you probably can't collect
>on his opinion.
>

    Bob,
    In regards to this warranty statement, I would like to point out
the following:
July 1994 issue of MiniTruckin mag. editorial by Mike Shartsis, is a
reprint of the press bulletin released by the SEMA public relations
director, Tony Thacker.
here is a partial quote: "The vehicle manufacturer is not allowed to
void the warranty, in part or in whole, just because aftermarket
equipment is installed on the vehicle."
"The warranty cannot be voided even if an aftermarket part is directly
responsible for the failure.  This protection for consumers is the
result of the self-certification developed by the EPA and SEMA.  Under
this program, if the parts manufacturer completes the EPA process of
self-certifying its parts, the vehicle manufacturer cannot void the
warranty even if the certified part has failed and is directly
responsible for the warranty claim.  In cases where such a failed
aftermarket part is responsible for a warranty claim, the manufacturer
must arrange a settlement with the part manufacturer, but the
new-vehicle warranty is not voided under the law."

It also states that:  "for example, warranties can't be conditioned on
the use of the vehicle manufacturers parts or services unless those
parts and services are provided free of charge"

if a dealer does refuse a claim on the emissions warranty because of
aftermarket parts installed on the vehicle, the procedures in the
warranty manual should be followed.  If these steps do not bring a
resolution to the problem, the next step would be to call the EPA at
(202) 233-9040 or (202) 233-9100 
if the failure to honor a claim involves the new vehicle warranty, the
incident should be reported to the Federal Trade Commission  Their
number is: (202) 326-3128.
 

 Later,
 Dave Cooley
 cooldave@davasha.win.net


----------
Posted by: emory!davasha.win.net!cooldave (David Cooley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 17:18:58 1994
Subject: variable-venturi carbs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8689
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  A couple quickies...

  Anyone have any experience with variable-venturi carb setups
(like the Predator) for street use? Also, anyone know of a source
for a high rise/tunnel ram manifold for a 351W?

  Thanks...

----------
Posted by: emory!amp.com!dave.miller (Dave Miller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 17:30:03 1994
Subject: Ooops (Re '67 Dodge)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8690
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Hi all,

   I just noticed that I forgot to fix the header on this one, it isn't
about marine engines but rather about some hotrod raw materials available
to be saved from the crusher. Act fast if you are interested:

> There's a '67 Dodge in the NY area that could be had ("for restoration or
> hotrodding only") pretty cheaply, as I understood it. For more info or a 
> contact, send me a note.

-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 17:43:25 1994
Subject: 4-bolt vs. 2-bolt main
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8691
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>	And, since it has to be asked, under what conditions do you really
>*need* 4 bolt mains?  Has anyone ever spun a bearing in a 2 bolt engine that
>would not have spun in a 4 bolt engine?  How do you know?

Well Smokey Yunick (either in his articles in Circle Track or in his book) 
said that both the 2-bolt and 4-bolt block are more or less the same as far 
as endurance.  I think he put the limit at about 450hp - at which point you 
should consider the bow-tie block instead.  He claimed that the 4-bolt 
mains did not help that much.  The theory (in Smokey's case I suspect its 
more than a theory - he never seems to listen to theories anyway...) was 
that when the crank was being pounded through the bottom of the block the 
main caps would actually deform at the limit.  They would actually become 
narrow at the mating surface and pinch in on the crank.  The outer bolts 
did nothing to prevent this - hence the splayed bolts on the bow tie block.

I suspect billit main caps would be a definit stop gap.

Many earlier blocks seem to have nodular iron main caps (at least the two 
blocks that I have) so this may also be a slight advantage.

Studs on a 2-bolt main block are probably as good as the stock bolts on a 4
-bolt main block.

Personally if money was an issue I wouldn't spend the time/money looking 
for a 4-bolt block.  The reason I have two blocks is that I was much more 
interested in the steel cranks.  It seems these are few and far between on 
2-bolt 350's.

It was thought that marine applications (at least at one time) needed a 
stronger bottom end.  When the boat's hull bounces off of waves etc - it 
tends to try to drop the crank out of the bottom.  That plus long term 
running at high torque loads...

Interestingly enough - when asking a long time Mopar racer on whether it 
was worth getting cross-bolted mains on a 440 block (assuming supercharged 
motor) he said just get studs and don't worry about it. A close friend had 
10 Hemi - cross bolted main caps, so cost (other than machining) was not a 
factor.

All the above would lead me to believe there is not much difference between 
a stock chevy 4-bolt and 2-bolt small block.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 18:09:08 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8692
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Dave Williams commented about problems with factory 4 bolt small block
Chevies, in particular cracking into the water jacket.  I have also heard
from a normally reliable source (my favorite machine shop that does
racing engines) that the factory main bearing caps tend to crack and
lose a piece of the outside of the cap.  They showed me an engine
which had suffered this fate; it didn't destruct but it did develop a
severe vibration and scored the crank journal.

The aftermarket four bolt caps don't seem to have this problem.  They
run the outer bolts in at an angle so that the outer bolts are better
aligned with the thrust from the rods.  However, the aftermarket caps
do run the outer bolts into the water jacket so you do need a good
sealer on them.  I prefer the 3M weatherstrip adhesive ("Yellow Death").
Since you are replacing the main caps you do need to do an align bore
on the block and caps.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun  7 18:21:43 1994
Subject: Re: TIMESLIPS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8693
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> Well, turbo Buickdom, 109 mph with decent traction is good for 12.40s-50s. 
Just to backup what Ken said, my '86 Buick GN runs consistent 12.5's @ 109 when
launched hard (5+psi) or 12.7's @ 109 when leaving with no boost. 109 mph
should be good for 12.5's

Ron

mellum@skyler.mavd.honeywell.com

----------
Posted by: emory!skyler.mavd.honeywell.com!mellum
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  8 00:16:52 1994
Subject: Re: Marine engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8694
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-> The aftermarket four bolt caps don't seem to have this problem.

 They're usually machined from mild steel or aluminum billet, not simple
gray iron castings.

 Too bad the 302 Ford's main webs thin out so much.  It's not practical
to run anything more than maybe a 1/4" bolt in there.  Roush likes his
strap reinforcements, but I'm considering making up some steel caps for
the 3.5" stroker motors.
                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  8 03:31:51 1994
Subject: The end is VERY near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8695
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This mailing list remains as the only one I've yet to find a new home
for.  Several promises but no committments.  It appears now that, 
barring some out-of-the-blue complication, I will take possession of my
schoolhouse July 15.  Coincidentally I will begin my move that day.
The move is expected to take a month but there is no guarantee that 
dixie.com will be operational beyond July 15th.  If someone has not
come forward to take over the Hotrod list, on the day it is time to
move dixie, I will pull the plug with no further ado.  I hope
this message serves to gig someone to come forward and take this list.
If not, well guys, it's been fun....

73 John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
Clinton at Normandy for D-day is worse than Hitler presiding over the 
Holocaust Museum.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  8 12:50:08 1994
Subject: Re: Quick GN
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8696
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Does any of the GN modifications apply to a GMC Typhoon?
I own a 92...

darkman@pwrsys80.sgi.com



----------
Posted by: emory!pwrsys80.mfg.sgi.com!listen (listen)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun  8 23:50:38 1994
Subject: Chevy LT1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8697
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 I got to check out a disassembled LT1 at the local Chevy dealer's.  It
was rather interesting.  Yes, the distributor is a royal *#!!# to get
to.  There were some rather substantial changes that weren't well
covered in the magazines, though.

 First off, forget about ever using an LT1 block or heads with any
earlier parts.  The LT1's reverse-flow cooling isn't a simple thing.
The block is different, with two water pump holes on each side.  The
water goes from the pump, into the block, turns 90 degrees, and then up
into the heads.  Looks much like a 351 Cleveland, except the flow is the
other way.  The heads have the water jacket openings on the bottom; if
you try to crossbreed LT1 and early parts you'll have water everywhere.

 The intake manifold runs completely dry, again like a 351C.  The intake
manifold bolt pattern is new - there are fewer bolts, and they're stood
more vertical than the early motors.  There is no provision for a rear
distributor.

 The timing cover shape and bolt pattern are new.  The cover itself is
die cast aluminum, very shiny, looks sort of cheesy next to the heads,
which are gorgeous sand castings.

 The valve covers are now plastic, retained by enormous Torx screws.
The combustion chambers are new and goggle shaped, and though I didn't
have any measuring tools, it looks like the valves are stood up more
vertical than before.

 Late heads have a "7th" exhaust manifold bolt hole used to mount
accessories.  The LT1 heads have a mirror-image "8th" hole.  Neither are
used in the Corvette configuration.

 The oil cooler fittings screw into the block, no bulky adapter like
before.  The line diameter is quite small, looked like less than 1/2".
I suspect GM may have it plumbed with a bypass valve.

 The harmonic balancer bolts together in two pieces; a crank hub and the
balancer assembly.

 The tubular exhaust manifolds are plumbed for A.I.R. fittings, but only
one fitting per manifold, over the two center ports.  The end ports
don't get fittings.  I guess it works just fine, and it saves a lot of
plumbing.

 As a side note, the LT1 Corvettes use an electric smog pump.  It runs
for 60 seconds max on a cold start, 30 seconds max on a warm start.
>From what I can decipher from the service manual, it looks like the air
pump is used to lean out the exhaust mixture, which would make it
hotter, in order to get the convertors to operating temperature faster.
Therefore, they're not really doing the same job the old style AIR
systems did, since those predated convertors by many years.
                                                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  9 00:03:59 1994
Subject: So Long Everyone
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8698
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Well guys it has been fun, I have enjoyed this past several years of
correspondence. The information that I have gotten from everyone, especially 
John and Dave, two of the most informed people I have had the pleasure of
getting to know.

My alma mater has decided that we alumni are far too unimportant to have
an account on their mainframes, they are pulling my plug on June 15th. We are
trying to convince the powers that be that we really do need these accounts, if
we are successful I'll be back. ( don't hold your breath, tho')

Thank You to everyone!

Millam


[Thanks Millam.  Really 'preciat that.  Hope you can get back on soon,
perhaps with a public access site if all else fails.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!pine.cse.nau.edu!met (MTN-KAT)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  9 12:52:42 1994
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-23*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8699
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------
                               TV Events

Now in its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation of 
info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, my 
favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks also to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated no later than every Friday morning and will 
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your 
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day 
window.

As mentioned previously, this listing is now being submitted to the new 
group rec.autos.sport.info.  Assuming the moderators approve, this list 
will be available in the r.a.s.i group from now on.  In an attempt to 
get the word to as many r.a.s readers as possible, I will continue to 
cross-post to r.a.s for a short time. (This again assumes the moderators 
of r.a.s.i do not object to my doing so.)

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
                                          stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

                   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

AMA, ROAD RACING (T)                  06/09    2:00-3:00PM   HTS,PRTK
                                   HSE,KBL,PSNW,SUN,MSG,PSN,PASS,EMPS
Motor Sports Hour                     06/09    3:00-4:00PM      HTS
                                       MSG,PSN,SUN,PSNW,EMPS,HSE,PASS
In The Driver's Seat ??               06/09    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/09    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (240SX & Sonata)            06/09    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
AMA, ROAD RACING (T)                  06/09    9:00-10:00PM     HTS
Motor Sports Hour                     06/09    10:00-11:00PM  HTS,SUN,
                                                         PSN,PASS,EMPS
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/09   11:00PM-12:00AM  EMPS,HTS,
                                                PRTK,PSN,PSNW,SCOH,SPTS
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, MONACO (T)          06/10    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Motoworld II                          06/10    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 06/11    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (van conversions)  06/11    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Driving Force                         06/11    9:30-10:30AM     ESPN2
MotorWeek                             06/11    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NASCAR, SPORTSMAN 150, POCONO (L)     06/11   11:00AM-1:00PM    TNN
ARCA 150, POCONO (L)                  06/11    1:00-2:30PM      TNN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, BOWMANVILLE (T)      06/11    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
TOYOTAL CELEBRITY, LONG BEACH (T)     06/11    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS, BUDDS CREEK (T)       06/11    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/11    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/11    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Hydropower                            06/11    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
Driving Force                         06/11    4:00-5:30PM      ESPN2
BUSCH GN, MYRTLE BEACH (L)            06/11    5:00-7:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             06/11    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
In The Driver's Seat                  06/11    7:00-7:30PM      ESPN2
SATURDAY NIGHT LIGHTNING (L)          06/11    7:30-10:30PM     ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             06/11    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
AC-DELCO CHALLENGE, LOUISVILLE (L)    06/11    8:00-10:30PM     EMPS,
            HSE,HTS,KBL,PASS,PSN,PSNW,SCC,SCNE,SCNY,SCOH,SCP,SPTS,SUN
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/11    10:30-11:30PM    HTS
Power Wheels                          06/11    10:30-11:30PM    ESPN2
MotoWorld                             06/12    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             06/12    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             06/12    7:30-8:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/12    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/12    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Ned Jarrett)     06/12    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/12    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/12    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/12   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               06/12    12:00-4:00PM     TNN
SODA, MEMORIAL DAY 100, LAKE GENEVA(T)06/12    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    1:30-4:00PM    CBC,SRC
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    2:00-4:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, DETROIT (L)                  06/12    2:00-4:30PM      ABC [1]
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/12    4:00-4:30PM      TNN
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (T)                06/12    4:30-5:30PM      ABC
SAAB PRO SERIES, LIME ROCK (T)        06/12    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (van conversions)  06/12    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
SCCA, DETROIT GRAND PRIX (T)          06/12    7:30-9:30PM      EMPS,
                         HSE,HTS,PASS,PSN,PSNW,SCNE,SCOH,SCP,SPTS,SUN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/12    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/12    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/12    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      06/12    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
World Of Spped & Beauty               06/12   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/13    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
FORMULA 1, CANADA (T)                 06/13    12:30-2:00AM     ESPN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/13    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Ned Jarrett)     06/13    1:00-1:30AM      TNN
INDY LIGHTS, MILWAUKEE (T)            06/14    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
IHRA SPORTSMAN SERIES, BRISTOL (T)    06/14    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
TOYOTAL CELEBRITY, LONG BEACH (T)     06/14    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, SAN MARINO (T)      06/14    4:00-4:30AM      ESPN
IHRA Hall Of Fame Ceremony            06/14    4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             06/14    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
INDYCAR, DETROIT (T)                  06/14    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN2
Auto Shop                             06/14    6:00-7:00PM      QVC
Secrets Of Speed                      06/14    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/15    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Movie: The Crowd Roars                06/16    8:00-9:15AM      SHOW
AMA SUPPORT DIVISION, MONTEREY (T)    06/16    2:00-3:00PM      HTS
SCCA WORLD CHALLENGE, LEXINGTON (T)   06/16    3:00-4:00PM      EMPS,
                                    HSE,HTS,MSG,PASS,PSN,SCNE,SCP,SUN
In The Driver's Seat                  06/16    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/16    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (AWD & 4WD)                 06/16    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
WORLD SUPERBIKE SERIES (T)            06/16    9:00-10:00PM     HSE,
                                                    HTS,PSNW,SCP,SPTS
SCCA WORLD CHALLENGE, LEXINGTON (T)   06/16    10:00-11:00PM    HTS,
                                      PASS,PSN,PSN2,SCC,SCOH,SCP,SPTS
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/16   11:00PM-12:00AM   HSE,
                        HTS,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,SCNE,SCOH,SCP,SPTS,SUN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, MALAYSIA (T)     06/17    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld II                          06/17    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Movie: Duel                           06/18    2:00-4:00AM      WDCA
Motoworld II                          06/18    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
SODA, MEMORIAL DAY 100, LAKE GENEVA(T)06/18    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN

                  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

PORSCHE CUP, SPAIN (T)                06/18    12:30PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             06/19    1:00PM           CBS
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, JAPAN (T)        06/23    9:00-10:00PM     ESPN
BUSCH GN, WATKINS GLEN (L)            06/25    2:00-4:00PM      TNN
ASA, BRAINERD (L)                     06/26    2:00-4:30PM      TNN
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (L)                 06/26    4:00-6:30PM      ESPN [1]
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (L)           06/26    6:00-7:00PM      TNN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, SPAIN (T)        06/30    9:00-10:00PM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)              07/02    11:00AM          ESPN
FORMULA 1, FRANCE (L)                 07/03    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
                                                                 RDS [1]
BUSCH GN, MILWAUKEE (?)               07/03    tba              tba
ASA, CEDAR RAPIDS (L)                 07/04    tba              TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/06   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/07   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/08   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, GREAT BRITAIN (L)          07/10    8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN,
                                                                 RDS [1]
WINSTON CUP, LOUDON (L)               07/10    1:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                07/10    1:30-3:30PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, S. BOSTON (?)               07/16    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               07/17    12:30PM          TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L)                  07/17    2:00-4:00PM      NBC [1]
PORSCHE CUP, FRANCE (T)               07/17    5:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               07/23    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, TALADEGA (L)             07/24    12:15PM          CBS
PORSCHE CUP, BRITAIN (T)              07/24    12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, MORRISON(?)07/24    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, GERMANY (L)                07/31    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
                                                                 RDS [1]
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 07/31    tba              tba
INDYCAR, BROOKLYN, MI (L)             07/31    12:00-3:30PM     ESPN [1]
ASA, TOPEKA (L)                       07/31    tba              TNN
NHRA, NATIONALS, SEARS POINT (?)      07/31    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (?)            08/05    tba              tba
BRICKYARD 400 (L)                     08/06    12:00PM          ABC
NHRA, NATIONALS, KENT (?)             08/07    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, HUNGARY (L)                08/14    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
                                                                 RDS [1]
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         08/14    1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LEXINGTON, OH (L)            08/14    3:00-5:00PM      ABC [1]
IROC #4, MICHIGAN (T)                 08/14    tba              ABC
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (?)                08/20    tba              tba
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  08/21    8:30-10:30PM     ESPN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             08/21    12:30PM          CBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BRAINERD (?)         08/21    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (?)                 08/26    tba              tba
PORSCHE CUP, GERMANY (T)              08/27    3:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              08/27    7:40PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, BELGIUM (L)                08/28    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
                                                                 RDS [1]
ASA, MILWAUKEE (L)                    08/28    tba              TNN
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (?)              09/03    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           09/04    1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (SD)               09/04    9:00-11:00PM     ESPN [1]
NHRA, US NATIONALS, CLERMONT (?)      09/05    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                09/09    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             09/10    7:30PM           TBS
FORMULA 1, ITALY (L)                  09/11    8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN,
                                                                 RDS [1]
INDYCAR, ELKART LAKE (L)              09/11    1:30-4:00PM      ESPN [1]
ASA, MICHIGAN (L)                     09/11    tba              TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      09/14   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      09/15   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      09/16   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (?)                   09/17    tba              tba
PORSCHE CUP, HUNGARY (T)              09/18    1:00AM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (L)                09/18    12:10PM          TNN
INDYCAR, NAZARETH (L)                 09/18    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN [1]
NHRA, KEYSTONE NATIONALS MOHNTON (?)  09/18    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, PORTUGAL (L)               09/25    8:50-11:00AM  TSN,RDS [1]
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (L)         09/25    12:30PM          ESPN
FORMULA 1, PORTUGAL (T)               09/26    12:00-2:00AM     ESPN
PORSCHE CUP, BELGIUM (T)              09/28    1:00AM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (L)        10/02    1:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (?)           10/02    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, CHARLOTTE (?)               10/08    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, CHARLOTTE (L)            10/09    1:00PM           TBS
PORSCHE CUP, PORTUGAL (T)             10/09    1:30PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LAGUNA SECA (SD)             10/09    9:00-11:00PM     ESPN [1]
FORMULA 1, ARGENTINA (?)              10/16    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (?)            10/16    tba              tba
NHRA, NATIONALS, ENNIS (?)            10/16    tba              tba
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Rockingham (L) 10/19   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Rockingham (L) 10/20   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Rockingham (L) 10/21   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (?)              10/22    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           10/23    12:30PM          TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Phoenix (L)    10/26   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Phoenix (L)    10/27   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Phoenix (L)    10/28   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, PHOENIX (L)              10/30    2:00PM           TNN
NHRA, WINSTON FINALS, POMONA (?)      10/30    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, JAPAN (SD)                 11/06    7:50-10:00AM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              11/13    12:30PM          ESPN
FORMULA 1, AUSTRALIA (SD)             11/13    7:50-10:00AM     ESPN
INDYCAR, MIAMI (?)                    03/05    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races (the Indy 500 & Long 
Beach will not be shown this year).  The races are usually broadcast on 
a tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening following the race.  I 
understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to delay the broadcast as 
much as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so please use extra caution if 
you plan to tape the race.  If you have access to it, and your French 
isn't too rusty, you may also want to check out RDS.  RDS broadcasts 
every F1 race and most IndyCar races, and their F1 coverage usually also 
includes a 30 minute prerace show.  RDS generally uses the ESPN feed, 
while TSN generally uses the BBC feed.  The exception to these rules is 
the Canadian Grand Prix.  Only CBC and SRC have the rights to the 
Canadian GP.  Thanks to Pierre Mailhot and Tak Ariga for info. on 
coverage in Canada.

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
CBC      Canadian Broadcasting
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Montreal (French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      Canada (English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WOR      New York "Super Station"
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  9 17:50:06 1994
Subject: Will this swap work?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8700
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I have a '72 chevy 3/4 ton truck with a 402 and 4 speed trans.
My other car is a '79 chevy impala wagon with a 350 and turbo
350 trans.  I would like to put the 350 in the truck using the
4 speed that's already there.  Will this swap be difficult?
Do I need any special parts to make it work?  The 350 seems to 
have a different distributor than the older truck engine.  Is
this some sort of electronic ignition and are there any other
pieces associated with this piece that I would also have to 
swap over to the truck?

Question #2:  We have an emissions beginning year of 1975.  Any
vehicle '75 or later must meet emissions.  Will my '72 truck
with a '79 engine be required to pass the emission test or is
the emission law only concerned with the chassis year?
The people at DMV here in Albuquerque, NM can't seem to answer
that one.

Any help would be appreciated. (E-mail at WOLF@APSICC.APS.EDU)

----------
Posted by: emory!apsicc.aps.edu!wolf (Clint Wolf)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  9 18:02:06 1994
Subject: Check the Obvious
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8701
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


I was looking for a set of gas shocks for my '63 Galaxie. Should be easy,
right? How complicated could it be?  To listen to all the local parts shops
and tire centers, way too complicated.

Everyone said:  "...sorry too old, don't make 'em anymore, our warehouse 
supplier can't get them" etc.  One tire store said, "Sure, but just the
front ones, $49.95 each."

Since I know that Gabriel will make anything they have ever made, I realized
that I was receiving a line of BS from shop owners who just don't care.

Then I saw an ad from Sears. So I gave them a call. Answer: "Sure, no
problem. Have them in two weeks. $14.95 each, made by Gabriel."

And they did come in in two weeks, except that by then, they were on
sale at $10.99 each.  

While I was there, I learned that Sears also sells a wide variety of
antique car tires for you wide-whitewall freaks. And American Racing
Equipment (ARE) wheels at up to 20% off list.

So it pays to check the obvious.

And speaking of the obvious, it's obvious to me that we are all going
to miss the hotrod list. My thanks to John, Dave, Millam, Geof, Ron, and
everybody else who has made this my favorite part of coming to work each 
day.  John, I hope the barbeque biz is a hit. I can taste 'em already!

Regards,
--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===

[I think it's safe to say that the list won't be dying.  My call
to arms got a certain individual (ahem!) off his duff to finish
the installation of the list software so that we're now testing
the new home.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  9 18:13:07 1994
Subject: Painting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8702
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I'm interested in painting my car and would like to know what
sort of tools I need to do it right.  I need advice on the type
and size of the compressor, the paint gun, and anything else
I might need.  The people at Wagner who sell the power painter
say their product would work for cars.  I don't think I want
that kind of 'paint job'.  That thing didn't even work well
when I used it to paint a room in the house.  

Any advice would be appreciated.

----------
Posted by: emory!apsicc.aps.edu!wolf (Clint Wolf)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun  9 18:22:00 1994
Subject: Natural gas fueled engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8703
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I know that there has been a bit of discussion about natural gas
and propane powered engines here in the past but I didn't save it
and now I find that I may have a use for it.

Does anyone have any direct or indirect experience with such conversions?
I am especially interested in the requirements for the valves and the
seats.  Is Stellite OK for the seats?  Do the intake seats need to be
hardened?  Are sodium filled valves required?  Can I get away with
ordinary stainless super duty valves?

I understand that there are are only really two outfits that make
mixers for dual fuel systems, and that one of these isn't very good.
Could anyone tell me who these two are?

Any references would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 00:48:04 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy LT1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8704
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> >From what I can decipher from the service manual, it looks like the air
> pump is used to lean out the exhaust mixture, which would make it
> hotter, in order to get the convertors to operating temperature faster.
> Therefore, they're not really doing the same job the old style AIR
> systems did, since those predated convertors by many years.

The way I understand that this type of setup works is that there is a
lot of unburned fuel in the exhaust after a cold start.  Injecting
air into the exhaust stream near the ports causes combustion to continue
in the exhaust system.  This helps kill two birds with one stone: 1)
it reduces pre-cat hydrocarbons, and 2) it results in a higher EGT at
the catalyst inlet and quicker lightoff.  Or is that what you said?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 04:43:12 1994
Subject: Re: Natural gas fueled engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8705
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

> Does anyone have any direct or indirect experience with such conversions?

I've done a bunch of work with CNG.

> I am especially interested in the requirements for the valves and the
> seats.  Is Stellite OK for the seats?  Do the intake seats need to be
> hardened?  Are sodium filled valves required?  Can I get away with
> ordinary stainless super duty valves?
 
I don't know what type of seats we used in our heads, honestly.
They were cast iron Dart II Sportsmans.  We used ordinary stainless
steel valves on the intake and exhaust.  I don't have any long term
reliability data, though...  only had about 4,000 miles on them when I
left.  We were running 11:1 compression + 6psi boost + extremely
restrictive lightoff cats, so our EGT was ridiculous.  1050F-1125F at
idle, 1600-1650F at 65mph, god knows how much at WOT (truck was a
handful at WOT on the street, and we didn't have any data logging
equipment for the thermocouples).

> I understand that there are are only really two outfits that make
> mixers for dual fuel systems, and that one of these isn't very good.
> Could anyone tell me who these two are?

Impco and OHG are the two biggies.  Impco has been around forever, and
when they forced all their older engineers to retires, those retirees
formed OHG (Over the Hill Gang).  I've used both the Impco CA425 and the
OHG X-450.  I like the OHG a lot better, because its more tuneable.
Both are CV carbs.  The Impcos use one giant "metering rod", whereas the
OHG uses three smaller ones.  The Impco setup is non adjustable...  you
don't like the curve, you buy a different gas valve assembly.  On the
OHG, the metering valves are removable from the assembly so you can
stick em in a lathe and make the fuel curve do whatever you want, plus
you can change the initial height.

Autotronics makes feedback controllers for both of them.  The
traditional feedback controllers are lean biased for fuel economy, but
the newer ones are rich biased for peak methane-reducing catalyst efficiency.

I'm short on time now (AT&T-net), ask some more questions and I'll share
what I know when I get home this weekend.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 07:57:35 1994
Subject: So Long Everyone
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8706
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


-> My alma mater has decided that we alumni are far too unimportant to
-> have an account on their mainframes, they are pulling my plug on June
-> 15th.

 Wotta buncha wads.  I hope we see you back soon.
                                                                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 12:38:15 1994
Subject: FWD>Vette Restoration- CORR
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8707
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Mail*Link(r) SMTP               FWD>Vette Restoration- CORRE
This is forwarded from the HUMOR mailing list.
------------------------------
Date: 6/10/94 7:45 AM
>From: Chris Brown Witt

   Boy, it really galls my threads when these ignoramuses go off about how the
Corvette crowd is 'over-restoring' cars! I say, restored means *exactly* as the
factory  did it, no matter what. I spent 95 weeks last year doing an accurate
and complete ground-up restoration on my '67. And, let me tell you, some of
those rubber and glass pieces are *really* hard to restore after grinding them
up!  Thankfully, the metal pieces are easy to remelt and form.

    For some folks, simply applying a bit of overspray while painting is 'good
enough.' I scoff at this. I meticulously copied onto the mufflers, droplet by
droplet, the exact overspray pattern that was there originally. Even the runs
and sags at the bottom of the door panels were duplicated.  Your average
'restorer' will just slap some new paint on, calling it 'original' if it is the
same color. Jeeez. I chemically removed every vestige of *the original paint*,
then broke it down, reformulated it, and re-applied it. Sure, I had to use
substitute volatile carrier (thinner), but since it evaporates anyway, I claim
that it was not originally 'on the car' when it left the factory gates.

    Some folks think using the 'correct' fasteners is good enough. Ha! I made
sure to cross-thread the left rear upper transmission crossmember bolt, just as
the (sometimes inebriated) factory worker was known to.  I removed the third
from the right lower grille attachment screw, which a previous owner had
erroneously installed, in spite of the well-documented fact that none of these
were installed at the factory until after 3:43 pm on October 17th, 1966. I made
sure to scratch the frame in the appropriate places, just as the handling
mechanisms at the factory did. Some previous owner had removed the scratches,
in an effort to make the car 'perfect.' What was he thinking? I even installed
the #3 cylinder's exhaust lifter upside down, which was a rare (1 of 3 such
built), but documented occurrence. Sure, it runs like hell, but hey, it's
_original_!

    Some folks get a new set of tires that LOOK like the originals, and call
that good enough. Not me. I got THE ORIGINAL tires out of a landfill, ground
them up, and restored them. I was able to find about 91.7% of the rubber which
had worn off, by vacuuming the roadside dust over the roads the car had
travelled, and separating out the correct molecules from the other debris with
a double diathermic isopropa diaphanometer molecular identifier. NOT cheap, le
me tell you. But, correct is correct. Some folks put on new valve stems and
caps, and away they go. We purists know that it IS important to align the seam
line on the valve cap to the correct angle, just as it left the factory
('indexed' valve caps).

    Changing the oil is considered routine by some 'restorers'. They throw out
the old, slap in some new, maybe even 'improved' oil, and a new filter. Not a
real purist. I have the original oil broken down and re-refined. The old
additives are removed, restructured, and re-added. I even recover as many
molecules of the burned or dripped oil as possible, and add them back in. Of
course, the filter must be dismantled, which ruins the case, so it has to be
remelted and reformed into a filter. Re-using the original paint, of course.

    Some bozos throw in a Sears Die-Hard, and off they go. Some so-called
restorers buy a reproduction 'tar-top' battery, and call THAT good enough
(*scoff*). I found my original battery and remanufactured it. No wimpy
replacing the innards with new, either. I melted down the original plates, then
recast them in the correct factory molds. Saving the original electrolyte, of
course. Now, you might think, gee, that seems pretty far-fetched, this guy is
extreme. Well, you ain't seen nothing yet. I also was able to procure the
original electrons which had come with the car, and reinstall them. It seems
that over the years, the car had given and recieved a few jump starts, and some
of the original electrons had thus transferred to other vehicles, and some
from other cars had contaminated my car. Thankfully, there is an electron
sorting and ID accessory for the molecular identifier, which allowed me to
correct this blatant slap to _true_ originality.

    One thing holds me back from being 100% correct. Some fool of a previous
owner had changed the tires, and did not retain the original air. I know, hard
to believe, but it happened- some folks just don't 'get it.' Now, I have
located about 24.6% of the original air molecules with the double diathermic
isopropa diaphanometer, but many of them have been sucked into other engines,
combusted, and turned into CO, CO2, NOx, etc. If anyone is aware of a device to
spot the correct air molecules after they have been broken up and combined in
other chemicals, please let me know.  I guess I COULD settle for some air
molecules from the Bowling Green tire-mounting area vicinity, captured about
9:47 am on September 5th, 1966. Ah, well, it's only a few points off at
showtime...

    As soon as I'm done, and win a few trophies, I plan to sell it. I have
invested $45,000 in parts, and $45,000,000 in labor, and expect to sell it for
about $37,000. If any one wants to buy it, please hurry, it won't last long.

Chris Witt  6/94
wittchri@student.msu.edu

----------
Posted by: "Curt Copeland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 12:46:57 1994
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Subject: 4bbl carb (small)

greetings:
 
  i was looking at intake manifolds for my little inline 6 chevy and
have a carb question (or 2).  the manifold is setup for a holly 4bbl
with 4 equal sized holes (in the manifold).  i believe this to be
called "square bore".  for my application a holly 390 to 500 cfm carb
is recommended.  i'm not familiar with hollys (never owned one, never
rebuilt one), but i do have some familiarity with the old rochester
4bbls.  these, however have larger secondaries than primaries.  i
believe this to be called "spread bore".  there are adapters that
make the conversion, as can a die grinder.
 
  my first question deals with the holly carbs.  do they make a 390
to 500 cfm in a primary/secondary setup?  also, i have heard that
they (holly's in general) are a bitch to setup (so many adjustments
to be made, cross-coupling between the adjustments,...).  for a car
that will also be a daily driver, is a holly worth the hassle?  will
it keep the settings, or does it constantly need to be tuned,
adjusted and piddled with?
 
  the second question deals with the rochester 4bbls.  i've used and
abused (and rebuilt) these for years on buick 350 and 455 engines.
they have provided years of yeoman service, but that was always in a
factory-designed application.  the questions:  is there a rochester
4bbl that is small enough for my application?  do you think that it
would be sufficiently adjustable to be adapted to this application?
i'm hoping to save some money by getting a rebuildable core from a
local wrecker and going from there.
 
  this is new territory for me, as i've always adjusted a factory
issue carb (but i don't think that i can get a rochester 1bbl to
stretch that far... :).  i am a little bit uneasy with the idea of
just throwing money in the general direction of the carb and hoping
it works.  i know better than to ask for a consensus, but opinions
should be easy to find.  please share them with me. :)
 
later,
kc
 
ps - i'm trying for a primary/secondary carb due to my belief that
     it will help improve the gas mileage and give crisper throttle
     response.  is this a correct assumption?  what other options
     are there?  (besides fuel injection, that's in the works, but
     my present daily driver isn't likely to last long enough for 
     me to get that going, unless i can get a 'test' engine,...)


----------
Posted by: emory!io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 12:53:38 1994
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Subject: buick gn: swap parts to chevy 6?

greetings:
 
  i've been doing some daydreaming/benchracing of late (long hours of
writing documentation seem to do that to me), and included in the "if
i had the cash" category are some half-baked ideas of splicing some
buick grand national stuff into my engine.  i'm running a chevy
inline 6 with roughly the same displacement as the buick.
 
  the only problem is finding a cheap grand national engine.  one
with a broken bottom end was a thought, as i'm looking to relieve it
of the injectors, fuel pump & regulator, computer, ignition, turbo &
intercooler.  if i can get my head (well, my *engine* head) to flow
like a stock grand national, and can build a bottom end that can
handle the boost, i'm thinking of trying it.  any comments on this?
 
  i have talked to turbo city about the possibility of the grand
national parts transplant, and they thought it would be both do-able
and interesting.  rebuilt grand national turbos are only about $450,
and they can provide any level of wiring/design help for whatever
parts i can't scrounge (for a modest fee :).  the big thing that
worries me is the header fabrication.  i'm new to welding (have a
hobart handler 120, but i'm still a bit green...) and after hearing
horror stories on the net about poorly made or designed headers, i'm
a bit scared.  the big plus, of course, is the fact that all the
plumbing is on the same side of the engine...
 
   on a topic related to turbocharged engines, is there any solid
data that shows if putting a coating of silicon (ceramic) on piston
tops (and valve faces, and chamber tops,...) does any good?  years
ago i'd heard of the practice, but haven't heard much of it lately.
what is it supposed to do? (or help do?)  any clues, comments, ideas?
 
later, 
kc


----------
Posted by: emory!io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 12:59:48 1994
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Subject: longer rods vs more cubes

greetings:
 
  i'm once again thinking of rebuilding my engine, (long hours at
work seem to do that to me), and i'm going thru many gyrations (of
the mental sort).  what i have is a straight 6 that has been rebuilt
(no receipts), and i have no idea how many cubes it is.  the 230 cube
& 250 cube share the same block (different cranks & pistons).  when i
look thru the spark plug hole, i see shiny flattops.  flattops were
standard issue for the 230.  shiny implies a recent rebuild.
however, if any headwork was done (deshrouding,...), then the cc's of
the head may have increased enough to warrant taking a 250 to
flattops (stock was dished, to keep compression down).  i won't know
until i make my engine hoist & engine stand, pull the motor, pop off
the oilpan & look at the crank's forging/casting number.
 
  in a nutshell, here's both sides of it:  a 250 has 20 more cubes
than a 230 (gee :), about an 9 percent gain (both cubes and horses).
if i go with a known aftermarket setup, i can use 6" rods for either
engine.  longer rod *ratios* are supposed to allow for more
compression (before detonation), which in turn allow for greater
power, but due to the 250's longer stroke, the rod *ratio*
(rod/throw) is lower for the 250 by about 9 percent (1.70 vs 1.85 for
the 230 w/ 6" rods).  the price for the buildup should be about the
same (except for the purchase of whichever crank i don't have).
 
  what it boils down to is a choice between a better rod *ratio* or
more cubes.  more cubes is a given: a proportional increase in
horsepower can be expected.  the effects of the rod *ratio* increase
are not so well known.  theory says more horsepower (from greater
compression allowed and/or more timing) and more torque.  the big
question is how much more.  enough to give up 20 cubes?  enough to
make back those 20 horses?  any clues, comments or opinions?
 
  the only data i have on the rod ratio issue is from magazine
articles.  they seem to be claiming (for a 350) about a 5 to 10%
horsepower gain, depending on the article.  note that the rod ratios
for the 250 cube and 350 cube engines are very nearly the same (3.48
vs 3.53 stroke).
 
later, 
kc (the long-winded)


----------
Posted by: emory!io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 19:48:23 1994
Subject: Piston Rings
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I'm in the process of rebuilding my engine with an eye to turbocharging
it as well - It's a Ford 302, which I picked up as a core from a junk
yard.

I've seen gapless rings advertised in Summit and elsewhere (Total Seal,
Child and Albert's) and these sound like they would be great for sealing
and better compression efficiency.

Has anyone had any experiences with these type of rings, or heard any
sort of _real_ experiences with them?  Are they reliable, or are they
just all hype?

Thanks,

Derek

----------
Posted by: emory!rainbow.mentorg.com!derek_deeter (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 19:53:14 1994
Subject: Will this swap work?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> I have a '72 chevy 3/4 ton truck with a 402 and 4 speed trans.
-> My other car is a '79 chevy impala wagon with a 350 and turbo
-> 350 trans.  I would like to put the 350 in the truck using the
-> 4 speed that's already there.  Will this swap be difficult?
-> Do I need any special parts to make it work?

 You'll need the engine stands and motor mounts for a '72 truck with a
350.  The big block parts are different.

 You'll need to move the transmission crossmember forward to the next
set of holes, and get a longer driveshaft.  Alternatively, you could
leave the trans alone, mount the engine to it, and drill new holes for
the engine stands, or just weld them in.  Chevy slid the engine back
about an inch on the big block.

->  The 350 seems to
-> have a different distributor than the older truck engine.  Is
-> this some sort of electronic ignition and are there any other

 It's the HEI electronic ignition.  It will work fine - just hook the
power wire to some switched power source.


-> vehicle '75 or later must meet emissions.  Will my '72 truck
-> with a '79 engine be required to pass the emission test or is
-> the emission law only concerned with the chassis year?

 What they don't know won't hurt them.


 Around here, the big block engine stands and accessory brackets are
rare and prized items.  Don't just throw them away!
                                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 10 23:23:21 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy LT1
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-> > pump is used to lean out the exhaust mixture, which would make it >
-> hotter, in order to get the convertors to operating temperature
-> faster.

> The way I understand that this type of setup works is that there is a
> lot of unburned fuel in the exhaust after a cold start.  Injecting
> air into the exhaust stream near the ports causes combustion to
> continue

 Though that isn't exactly what I *said*, it's what I *meant.*  Thanks.
      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jun 11 00:44:54 1994
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-> factory-designed application.  the questions:  is there a rochester
-> 4bbl that is small enough for my application?  do you think that it

 No, not unless you count the antique 4Jet, out of production around 30
years.

 The 6 is a good application for a 500 or 650 CFM Carter AFB.  Since
you're familiar with the Qjet you'll find nothing unusual about the AFB,
which works almost identically.

 If you'll join the Mopar mailing list you might find someone who can
help you with proper carb setup - the 225 Slant Six with the Hyper Pak
had a Carter AFB.

 If you insist on modifying the manifold for a Quadrajet, the 230 and
250 cubic inch Pontiac overhead camshaft sixes had Quadrajets.  Their
setup would be a good starting point.
                                                                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jun 11 00:49:59 1994
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-> if i go with a known aftermarket setup, i can use 6" rods for either
-> engine.  longer rod *ratios* are supposed to allow for more

 Be careful about using aftermarket 6" rods for a V8 - the 6 cylinder
rods are *almost* identical to the V8, but the bearings are a bit wider.
You'll bleed a little oil from the increased side clearance.

 A little-known performance secret for those with the inline sixes and
small journal V8s is [glancing around furtively] the early Pontiac Iron
Duke four cylinder rods, which are 6".  Forged steel, plenty strong, and
one hell of a lot cheaper than Crower or Comp cast steel rods.
                                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jun 11 21:42:17 1994
Subject: Re:  Will this swap work?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>-> I have a '72 chevy 3/4 ton truck with a 402 and 4 speed trans.
>-> My other car is a '79 chevy impala wagon with a 350 and turbo
>-> 350 trans.  I would like to put the 350 in the truck using the
>-> 4 speed that's already there.  Will this swap be difficult?
>-> Do I need any special parts to make it work?
>
> You'll need the engine stands and motor mounts for a '72 truck with a
>350.  The big block parts are different.
>
> You'll need to move the transmission crossmember forward to the next
>set of holes, and get a longer driveshaft.  Alternatively, you could
>leave the trans alone, mount the engine to it, and drill new holes for
>the engine stands, or just weld them in.  Chevy slid the engine back
>about an inch on the big block.

Hey Dave,
  I don't think it is this complicated...  our hell-blazer project 
a couple years ago went as follows:  we had a '74 Blazer 1/2 ton with
a rotten old 350...  we also had a slightly-used LS-6 454 crate engine.
Since there was a "tough truck" competition coming up, we decided to
do a little swap.  The 454 (I belive we used 68-72 Big block Chevelle
motor mounts) bolted to the factory engine mounts (those wonderful
metal blocks that bolt to the crossmember.)  The engine bolted right
up to the stock TH350 tranny and with the exception of having to fabricate
a power steering bracket, the swap was effortless.

The 350 swap into a big block blazer should be no more complicated than
finding the right motor mount/engine mount combination.
jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 12 18:12:33 1994
Subject: Re:  Will this swap work?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> Since there was a "tough truck" competition coming up, we decided to
-> do a little swap.  The 454 (I belive we used 68-72 Big block Chevelle
-> motor mounts) bolted to the factory engine mounts (those wonderful
-> metal blocks that bolt to the crossmember.)  The engine bolted right

 I don't know about Chevelle mounts, but the big block and small block
truck mounts and stands are different and the big block sits further
back.  As I said, I did one of these earlier this year.
                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 12 18:17:32 1994
Subject: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
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I have a question that may not be exactly "hotrod list" material, but is most
likely to get answered here.  I have a '56 Chevy wagon, which serves as the
primary transport vehicle for our family of 5 + dog.  Since it frequently goes
on long freeway trips, I am interested in improving the gas mileage and
quieting things down abit by changing the rear end (preferably just the ring
and pinion).  I am looking for something smaller than 3.08.  What later models
(if any) might be likely donors for my vehicle.  I forgot to mention that it
has a 283 and cast-iron powerglide (although I would like to replace it with a
TH350 when I get a chance).  

Anyone got any ideas on what might work or where I might find some more information?

----------
Posted by: emory!cnb.com!fred.fork
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 12 18:22:53 1994
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greetings:
  thanks for the pointers.  i'll probably get with the mopar list
eventually.  got a slant6 dodge aspen, motor's good, body's shot.
what i was hoping for was something i could scrounge, as it seems
that carbs are getting quite expensive...  oh well.

later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 12 18:30:55 1994
Subject: Re: longer rods 
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greetings:
  i'd heard about the vega rods, but not the 'duke rods.  will
look into that.  eagle claims it'll have 6 inchers for about
450 by fall, i'll have to look into the 'duke rods (used to have
a duke in a buick.  not a great motor, but survived quite a bit
of abuse, as i had just 'graduated' from a 70 lesabre (v8 w/ a
quadrajet)).  i'm in the slant 6 and inliner clubs, but they 
don't seem to have as much good stuff as i get on the net...

later,
kc
  ps - if you were building it, would you go for the known (20
       cubes=20 horses) or go with even longer rods?
 pps - do you know if anyone has a list of all the worlds rods?
       (ideally a database w/ stock app, big & little diam's and
       big end with, quality and what it was used in,...)
ppps - how far up can a rod go (how close to deck height)?  i've
       seenpistons w/ an extra ring under the bottom ring to 
       provide support, because the wrist pin cut thru it's land.
       soon i hope to have the engine pulled apart and can start
       taking measurements to determine what's going on & what i
       can do...  i'm still explorint possibilities...

----------
Posted by: emory!io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 12 18:36:37 1994
Subject: NHRA Schedules
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Hello,

I'm looking for a complete posting for NHRA upcomming events.  This list should
include:

  National Events 
  Events location
  Hotels in the immediate area (group rate prices!?!?)


Specifically, I'm looking for information on Indianopolis (Raceway Park),
3-day event prices, and local hotel accomodations.

If somone would help compile this information on this or any any NHRA events,
plese forware to oquinn@bga.com.

To supplemet this list, I have a WWW site to make this list available to the
public free of charge.

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance,

Jim O'Quinn
Kaleidoscope Communications, Inc.
http://kaleidoscope.bga.com/km/KM_top.html
oquinn@bga.com


  

----------
Posted by: emory!bga.com!oquinn (Jim O'Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 12 18:42:04 1994
Subject: CAR VIDEO TAPE
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On one of Internet's Mailing lists they have a user that combined some
neat in-car video of cars on some famous SCCA tracks, but I admit after
a while of this fixed camera circling, it kinda gets boring for my friends that
arn't interested in track racing....

What I am thinking of doing is compiling some videos from people here.
The difference will be that I want some cool in-car videos (aka SERIOUS
INTERACTIVE IN-CAR REAMING!!).  Gear slamming, tire smoking, clutch
dumping, stuff Tim "The Toolman" Taylor would die for.  Any good
reaming, from drag racing, street racing, donut smoking, just anything
cool of ANY car (or Van ;) )!  Heck, even some video of cool engine
compartments, ANYTHING but constant nothing-but-1/4 mile track runs (a
few are fine, but find other creative ways of what your car (or someone
else's) will do.. you know, stuff you did (or should have only done)
when you were a kid!

This would be for all types of cars, (mine, of course, would be mostly
with my Mustang), but all that I think would be required would be that
when/if you would send me a tape, it would have to be in VHS format,
preferably in SP speed (so we get the highest picture quality), and when
it is completed, I the tapes would have to include return postage and
envelopes.

So, what do you all think?  Who has some video they would like to
donate?  After I cut out the non-Mustang only stuff on my tape, I would
say I already have an hour or more of stuff collected, so I am sure I am
not the only one that plays with other people's camcorders!

                                        --Eric
                                Eric.Hedstrom@Chrysalis.Org


*Note: Use your head, you can have some really safe fun without getting
some one killed*


 * SLMR 2.1a * Will Race for Food

----------
Posted by: emory!chrysalis.org!eric.hedstrom
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 13:42:48 1994
Subject: Re: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> Subject: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
>
>
> I have a question that may not be exactly "hotrod list" material, but is most
> likely to get answered here.  I have a '56 Chevy wagon, which serves as the
> primary transport vehicle for our family of 5 + dog.  Since it frequently goes
> on long freeway trips, I am interested in improving the gas mileage and
> quieting things down abit by changing the rear end (preferably just the ring
> and pinion).  I am looking for something smaller than 3.08.  What later models
> (if any) might be likely donors for my vehicle.  I forgot to mention that it
> has a 283 and cast-iron powerglide (although I would like to replace it with a
> TH350 when I get a chance).
>
> Anyone got any ideas on what might work or where I might find some more information?
>
> - ----------
> Posted by: emory!cnb.com!fred.fork
>
> ------------------------------
>

If it were my wagon, my money would first go to swapping out the
powerglide for a TH350.  I did this with a '66 Chevelle I once owned
and saw a big improvement in gas mileage.  You might want to swap the
powerglide for a 700R4.  With the overdrive you wouldn't need to
change the rear end ratio.

-kevin

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 13:48:52 1994
Subject: Re: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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On Jun 12,  5:52pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
> 
> I have a question that may not be exactly "hotrod list" material, but is most
> likely to get answered here.  I have a '56 Chevy wagon, which serves as the
> primary transport vehicle for our family of 5 + dog.  Since it frequently goes
> on long freeway trips, I am interested in improving the gas mileage and
> quieting things down abit by changing the rear end (preferably just the ring
> and pinion).  I am looking for something smaller than 3.08.  What later models

Check out the Richmond gear catalog. I believe you will find a gear ratio to
suite your needs.Mike




-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 14:46:22 1994
Subject: RE: Piston Rings
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>I've seen gapless rings advertised in Summit and elsewhere (Total Seal,
>Child and Albert's) and these sound like they would be great for sealing
>and better compression efficiency.

The Child and Albert's "Zero Gap Second" or ZGS ring has become popular 
with the higher dollar engine rebuilds.  One of the owners of the machine 
shop I use has used them for 40,000 plus miles with "no appricable blow-by" 
even with forged pistons (losser fit).  He claimed that a leak down test 
would show about 1-2%.  I have not seen this so I can only take him by his 
word.  When it comes to engine building his word is gold.  I have since 
retro-fitted my 350 with ZGS rings ( I never fired the motor...still 
haven't - just a few more parts...) based on his recommendation. 

As with all rings ZGS can be bought over-sized and made to fit.  This 
requires a special file because of the rings stepped edge.  It is my 
understanding that bore preparation and ring fitting are more inportant in 
controlling gasses etc.  My current configuration is:

Top ring Speed Pro Plasma moly rings
2nd ring ZGS 
oil ring Speed Pro standard tension ring.

When all my other projects get cleared (finish that garage!!!!!) I will 
install the motor and fire it up...

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 14:53:05 1994
Subject:       rear-end convs.
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    I have a few questions about rear-ends that hopefully someone out 
there can answer. I own a '84 Monte Carlo that has a 7.5 rear end. It 
currently has a 4.56 gear ratio, posi, and stock axles. So far I have 
been unsuccessful in finding aftermarket axles for an upgrade. The 
problem is, I'm concerned about my rear-end staying in one piece and  
the axles twisting.My car leaves the line hard( I do not have an E. 
slip yet, since I just put a new converter in) considering the 
suspension is stock at this moment.
    I have heard that the 7.5 is a weak rear-end. Yet I 
know of a couple people who have 7.5's with all the goodies in it. So 
far I haven't heard of any problems with them. 
    I have been thinking about upgrading the rear-end with either a 
12-bolt chevy, 9" ford, or the 8.5 Grand National rear-end. The 
National rear-end is a bolt in job for my chevy. There is also bolt 
in fords, too. But I'm not sure about the 12-bolts. I know someone 
with the same car as mine with a 12-bolt, but the rear-end sticks out 
about an inch further from each side. I not hip to that idea.
    I have a question for anyone with a Grand National, since I have 
read about some of them doing 11's and 12's(since I'm doing 12's), How 
are the rear-ends holding up? Are the axles stock, or aftermarket? 
What about the posi?
    I'm just trying to figure out if I should keep the rear-end I 
have or upgrade. Any comments, suggestions, experiences, or facts 
will be appreciated. 


                        Paul Zajac
                        OSR@cw-f1.umd.umich.edu
                        
                        


----------
Posted by: "ZAJAC PAUL L (KEJ 05/06/1994 10:18:33)  " 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 14:58:54 1994
Subject: RE: EFI diagnosis - where to get info?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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  My wife's '89 chevy Beretta 2.8 l manual trans had this exact problem under
warentee.  New computer, old rom fixed this.  Any one know why the computer has
to switch on the fan, and not just a thermostat?  Weird that only this would
burn out of the computer.  Oh, yes.  There were no scan codes from my wife's
car.  The computer didn't know that this was not working.
-Steven Ciciora

----------
Posted by: "Ciciora Steve" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 21:42:02 1994
Subject: Re: rear-end convs.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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        Reply to:   RE>rear-end convs.


[...I have a question for anyone with a Grand National, since I have 
read about some of them doing 11's and 12's(since I'm doing 12's), How 
are the rear-ends holding up? Are the axles stock, or aftermarket? 
What about the posi?...]

Well, my car goes 11.70s and uses the stock rear end with stock axles and
stock posi.  It's held up very well over the years ... and has seen MANY 1.6
60 foot times.  It's also seen quite a few 1.5s (best of 1.53).

Never did anything except change the fluid every 6 months or 5000 miles.  I
use the RedLine synthetic.  The axle splines are in great shape, as is
everything else.

One thing to consider ... the GNs don't really shock the drive train like a
V8 with a converter does.  We build boost at the line, which preloads the
suspension, so you don't get the sudden shock.  I'd estimate that the car
makes most of it's sixty foot time in the last 55 feet of the 60.

A friend of mine had (just sold it) a low 10 second street driven GN that
routinely turned 1.4s that used the stock rear end for a couple seasons
before finally killing the stock axles.  The biggest thing to watch for is
the carrier and axles BEARINGs deforming.  I really need to think seriously
about having mine replaced this year (maybe this winter).  Cheap insurance. 
The car has about 300 passes  and 40K street miles on it, so it is probably a
good idea.

Buick GN: 11.711 @ 116.233, 25 mpg highway, drives like Gramma's Regal!

Ken Mosher (KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 21:48:54 1994
Subject: RE: rear-end convs.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>    I have heard that the 7.5 is a weak rear-end. Yet I 
>know of a couple people who have 7.5's with all the goodies in it. So 
>far I haven't heard of any problems with them. 

I had a all-steel '70 GTO (3800+lbs) and blew the spider gears out of the 
stock 10-bolt open rear on a 1-2 shift with street tires (L50's) and a Mr. 
Gasket shift kit (in full-race mode).  Since you may not have spider gears, 
a lighter car, smaller tires, and less torque you may be O.K.

Personally I wouldn't put much more money into the rear you have.  As your 
performance level increases your going to need a stronger rear anyway.  Add 
slicks and a hard hitting shift kit and its only a matter of time.  And 
believe me (see above) losing a rear not only leaves you on the road - but 
it will probably go on a full throttle up shift - which means the engine 
could easily wing past red-line.

>    I have been thinking about upgrading the rear-end with either a 
>12-bolt chevy, 9" ford, or the 8.5 Grand National rear-end. The 
>National rear-end is a bolt in job for my chevy. There is also bolt 
>in fords, too. But I'm not sure about the 12-bolts. I know someone 
>with the same car as mine with a 12-bolt, but the rear-end sticks out 
>about an inch further from each side. I not hip to that idea.

I remember looking at Currie's catalog - and the GM G-body version of the 
9" wasn't cheap.  When you got done with all the goodies it was nearly 
$1200.  But you could always get parts and it still the poor man's quick 
change rear.  3.26 for daily driving 4.56 for the drags.

As for the 12 bolt rear - it might be a bolt-in.  It is definitly wider.  I 
think the spring purch is different - requires some fabrications.  I was 
looking at this option for a '78 Grand Prix ( I sold the car instead ) - it 
allowed slightly more tire clearance between the frame and the rim/tire 
combo.  It would have allowed me to use a set of Z-28 rims or my old L50's 
(see note about GTO) on standard Crager SS rims.  In either case I wouldn't 
have to buy deap dish rims.  Another bonus is brake parts - like drums etc 
- would be easier to find than for some hybrid ford 9" rear.  This kinda 
fit my price/performance requirements.

I did neither of the above so YMMV.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 21:55:50 1994
Subject: Re: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>
> I have a question that may not be exactly "hotrod list" material, but is most
> likely to get answered here.  I have a '56 Chevy wagon, which serves as the
> primary transport vehicle for our family of 5 + dog.  Since it frequently goes
> on long freeway trips, I am interested in improving the gas mileage and
> quieting things down abit by changing the rear end (preferably just the ring
> and pinion).  I am looking for something smaller than 3.08.  What later models
> (if any) might be likely donors for my vehicle.  I forgot to mention that it
> has a 283 and cast-iron powerglide (although I would like to replace it with a
> TH350 when I get a chance).
>
> Anyone got any ideas on what might work or where I might find some more information?
>
Well I know someone who swapped just such a rear into a late '60's camaro.

I have no idea what the swap required.

This person past away approx 1986 and I have no idea what happened to the 
car.

Perhaps if you measured drum to drum width and spring perch width you could 
take that to a junk yard and see whats available.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 13 22:01:12 1994
Subject: Needed: HEADER GASKET material sources
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Hello, 

A buddy of mines needs to make his own HEADER GASKETs. 

Could someone please provide a source that he could buy a sheet of
Header gasket material (header to head) to make his own?
 
thanks. 
brad decker
livermore, ca 
brad@lsil.com 



----------
Posted by: emory!lsil.com!brad (Brad Decker)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 14 12:33:40 1994
Subject: ***SUMMARY*****REQUEST FOR INFORMATION JAGUAR XJ/CHEVY TRANSPLANT****
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Thanks to all you folks that responded to my request for information re:
JAGUAR XJ/CHEVY TRANSPLANT.

I was able to drive a conversion also and found it to be a pleasant car.  All
the "good stuff" about a Jaguar was there (that INCREDIBLE smell of leather,
good finish, wood and clear instrumentation) and a 350 TBI motor under the
hood er... bonnet.  :-)

The owner said he wanted the conversion for "ease of maintainance" 
reasons. 
He had a XJ6 before that he said was a money pit of engine and electrical
repairs, and wanted a less expensive alternative for engine related repair
charges.

The car had adequate power...no hotrod...but no dog either.  The stall speed
of the automatic transmission was a bit high, resulting in sudden, jerky
starts from rest after a bit more throttle than I was comfortable 
applying.  I
suppose that it is adjustable.

The installation was done by an independent converter in Eureka California,
that did not use a kit.  Some rough edges, but a clean installation.  Main
critisizm is that the shift lever linkage was stiff and uncertain.

So folks, it looks like a good idea for those that want a mechanically 
simpler
(less $) motor/transmission in a superb chassis.  I'm convinced.


Following are some of the more informative responses that I pulled from the
newsgroups and some from direct mail:

Thanks again for all the info!!


----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!hjackson (Henry Jackson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 14 12:40:07 1994
Subject: Re: Rear End Convs.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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 Paul,
 The GN rear end (8.5" 10bolt) has a 3.42 gear.  The same rear can be
found in the Monte Carlo SS with a 3.73 ring and pinion.  The GN's
hold up untill mid to low 11's.  Lawrence Conley twisted an axle when
he got down to about 11.30's in his Black car.  Moser makes a really
good set of axles for the GN that are currently in several 9 second
cars.(Travis Beckendorrf) and the rear end with these axles seem to
hold up really well.  If you get the GN rear end, Some came with
aluminum rear brake drums... Save you a few pounds there too!
Good luck,
Dave Cooley
 

----------
Posted by: emory!davasha.win.net!cooldave (David Cooley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 14 12:46:30 1994
Subject: Re: Piston Rings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:

[deleted]
> As with all rings ZGS can be bought over-sized and made to fit.  This 
> requires a special file because of the rings stepped edge.  It is my 

The Total Seal rings have a thin third ring which fits the second
groove 180 degrees from the second ring.  Had 'em in my tricked '57 Bug,
plan on using them when I rebuild my 318 in my truck..





----------
Posted by: emory!crl.com!stevel (Steven Lawson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 14 12:54:26 1994
Subject: Re: '56 CHEVY REAR ENDS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> I have a question that may not be exactly "hotrod list" material, but is most
> likely to get answered here.  I have a '56 Chevy wagon, which serves as the
> primary transport vehicle for our family of 5 + dog.  Since it frequently goes
> on long freeway trips, I am interested in improving the gas mileage and
> quieting things down abit by changing the rear end (preferably just the ring
> and pinion).  I am looking for something smaller than 3.08.  What later models


You could get a lock-up torque converter along with better gears and
really improve your mileage.


Stergios Marinopoulos
stergios@netcom.com

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!stergios (Stergios Marinopoulos)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 14 13:48:37 1994
Subject: RE: rear-end convs.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Another poster just mentioned that he spoke with / looked up prices 
for various Currie Ford 9" parts for GM applications.  I have just been
down that road two weeks ago, looking for prices.

Currie has a good warrentee, excellent reputation, really knows the
stuff, but WOW, the prices can really get up there.  I am looking for
a Ford 9" with Detroit Locker, big disk brakes, good axles and 
steep gears as a bolt-in for my '64 Chevelle.  Sure they have them
in stock, today.  For $2445.

Instead, I bought and installed a MSD 6AL, and programmed a suitable 
cutoff RPM; when the rear end blows out,  the engine will not go with it.  
I have posponed my rear-end problems, but have only spent $149.

I expect to head to the San Diego Swap Meet this Sunday.  I may buy
a solution there.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 14 13:52:38 1994
Subject: Re: Rear End Convs.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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        Reply to:   RE>>Rear End Convs.
[... The GN rear end (8.5" 10bolt) has a 3.42 gear.  The same rear can be
found in the Monte Carlo SS with a 3.73 ring and pinion. ...]

Actually, the 8.5" was only used in the Buick turbo Regals (3.42 gears) and
the Oldsmobile 442 (3.73 gears) G bodies.  The Monte SS used the 7.5" rear
(at least all the ones I've seen).

Maybe it was only the latest version of the Monte that had the 8.5"?

Ken Mosher (KEN_MOSHER@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 03:15:49 1994
Subject: What do yall think?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I've been looking for a 67 or 68 Camaro Convertible.  I went and looked
at a 68 this afternoon.  The body appears to be fairly straight.  The
doors and hood need to be aligned, tho.  It has new rear quarters (3/4),
and the original floorpans and trunk pans appear to be in very good
shape (he said he patched one rust hole in a floorpan).  It has a couple
of coats of not-very-well-sprayed paint on it.  I went over it looking
for bondo visually and in the common places (wheel wells, rockers) with
a refrigerator magnet, and the only place it seemed thick was the header
panel which isn't too bad to replace.  The seats appear to be original
but they're in good shape, no rips.  The dashpad and console seem to be
in fair-to-good shape.  It has new carpet and deluxe doorpanels.  THe
top has a couple of tears in it.  It has a 350 from a 79 truck
supposedly with 4 bolt mains and a fresh steel crank, and edelbrock
performer, holley 600 with vacuum secondaries and electric choke, HEI
(rubs the firewall--that's gotta go), and seems to run great.  Power
steering, manual drums.  Drives pretty well, but could probably use new
bushings throughout the car.  Lots of squeaks and rattles, but I think
thats to be expected.  It has a TH350 that has supposedly been rebuilt
that seems to work ok, but the shift linkage seems to need adjustment.
The windsheild washer isn't hooked up, the turn signals don't work
(front sockets broken, I'm not afraid of wiring), the windsheild is
scratched, the speedometer cable is broken.  He said he bought it four
years ago with no rear quarters, hood, engine, or tranny, and has been
working on it off and on as time and money permitted.  He said its never
spent a day outside since he's owned it, and it looks it judging from
the lack of rust.  There is a small spot of rust at the right corner of
the windsheild on the dashboard, but theres no sign of a silicone-job on
the windsheild.  I offered the guy $4500 and he accepted, going to meet
at the bank tomorrow.  I think this is a pretty good deal, what do yall
think?  I've seen people asking more than that for ones that had
significant rust.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Wed Jun 15 04:29:25 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #226 (June 14, 1994)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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	A frenid and I have been talking about a supercharger driven by an
electric motor for a while now and the other day he ran across an add in a
late fifties Popular Mechanics for just that.  I was wondering if
anybody had seen such a thing before and whether it worked worth a darn. 
My thinking is that for a car with a small engine that doesn't need a
big blower that it would be less of a drain on the engines power output to
install a good alternator. They're easy to find with all of the stereos
running around now days.  Let the battery make up any extra draw and power
something like a vortech blower or small compressor.  It would be real
easy to install and even easier to put variable boost on.  All it would
take is a pressure sender that would go open a certain persure and turn
the motor off for the second it would take the pressure to go back down. 


Henry Sommer

[Run a few numbers.  Let's say a small engine supercharger could be 
built to run on 25 hp (basing this on the power requirement of similar
industrial blowers I have some experience with).  There's 746 watts
in a HP.  Let's give the motor an efficiency of 90%.  That's about 
820 watts/HP.  25 hp would be about 20,500 watts.  If you want to
be able to run it on a battery, it would need to be 12 or 24 volts.
Let's say 24 volts.  20,500/24 = 855 amps!  A 24 volt battery capable
of that kind of discharge rate for any length of time would be huge.
Not only that, the alternator would have to be sized to supply a 
significant chunk of that amount of current if the supercharger is
to be available for use much of the time.  That would be one honking
alternator!!  To get an idea of how big, take a look at the generator
on a gas-powered welder.  These things supply about the same level
of power, though with vastly different electrical characteristics.
Wouldn't be much room in the engine compartment for the engine.

Never underestimate the power transmission capability of the common
V-belt.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 10:43:18 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8740
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

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----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 12:37:34 1994
Subject: Torque convertors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8741
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone has any experience with aftermarket 12" torque
converters like the B&M torque master or similar. These TCs have a 
2000-2100 stall versus the stock units 1600. They claim 
reduced tendency to creep in gear, improved acceleration and no special
mods required (ie auxillary trans cooler, higher numerical gearing etc).

I would like a little more punch off the line and don't like the thought
of replacing my 2.73 rear, 'cause I like to keep cruise rpm down. The
higher stall TC sounds just like the ticket.

All thought and comments most welcome!

BTW, the trans is a TH350 non lockup in a '75 Camaro with a ~300hp 350.

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 12:43:14 1994
Subject: RE:Rearend conversions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8742
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

Since we're on the subject, I have always wondered why people choose to
cross-breed their machines by using a 9" Ford in a Chevy.  Now don't get me
wrong, I'm not leaning to either side here, but in any case, be it engines,
trannies, rear-ends, whatever, wouldn't you want to keep your rod all one make?
Just seems like the sano thing to do.  8.75" 12-bolt GM rear-ends can also
be beefed by using one of the aftermarket posi carriers available from Auburn
Gear or several other manufacturers(also available for 10-bolt).  There's also 
a 12-bolt aluminum rear cover just recently introduced that bolts to the 
carrier and adds considerable structural integrity to the whole unit.

But heck, that's just my opinion....I guess sometimes you have to use what's
available.  But I sure don't know why you'd shell out thousands for a Currie
unit when you might be able to get by on the approx. $300 Auburn Gear carrier
or whatever.

----------
Posted by: "MATT BOSSARD , 1-2508, PGR#1541, MS D1-50" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 14:42:25 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #226 (June 14, 1994)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8743
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

The Hotrod List writes:
> [Run a few numbers.  Let's say a small engine supercharger could be 
> built to run on 25 hp (basing this on the power requirement of similar
> industrial blowers I have some experience with).  There's 746 watts

According to John Camden, it takes 75hp to spin one of his 144cid roots
blowers fast enough to make 10psi @ 6000rpm (engine).

[yeah, but a Roots blower is absolutely the worst choice if anything
else is available in the capacity size.  Screw and centrifugal 
compressors are MUCH more efficient.  JGD]

> in a HP.  Let's give the motor an efficiency of 90%.  That's about 
> 820 watts/HP.  25 hp would be about 20,500 watts.  If you want to
> be able to run it on a battery, it would need to be 12 or 24 volts.
> Let's say 24 volts.  20,500/24 = 855 amps!  A 24 volt battery capable
> of that kind of discharge rate for any length of time would be huge.

Assuming you'd only need 25hp, then several batteries in series to get
~200V and running something like a 25hp Uniq would be the way to go.
UNfortunately the last I checked, a Uniq with controller ran $10,000.

> Not only that, the alternator would have to be sized to supply a 
> significant chunk of that amount of current if the supercharger is
> to be available for use much of the time.  That would be one honking
> alternator!!  To get an idea of how big, take a look at the generator
> on a gas-powered welder.  These things supply about the same level
> of power, though with vastly different electrical characteristics.
> Wouldn't be much room in the engine compartment for the engine.

Yeah, the alternator idea won't cut it.  Here's my idea...  put the
blower in the trunk and run it off a suitably sized watercooled
motorcycle engine.  Plumb a duct under the car, put a servo on
the throttle and hook up a little bit of fancy electronics.
 
> Never underestimate the power transmission capability of the common
> V-belt.  JGD]

Who uses a V-belt to drive a blower?  I think everyone now uses either a
flat ribbed belt or a toothed (Gilmer?) belt.

[ Anyone who installs a Paxton or Vortech supercharger on, say, 
a Mustang.  Single V-belt drive.  JGD]

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 16:38:00 1994
Subject: Re:  Torque convertors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8744
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I was looking for a converter for my '81 Z28 with TH350 with a stall range
around 3000-3500 or so, but the price was too much for me at the time, so I
purchased a Summit Streeter torque converter for the interim.  It stalls at
around 2200 RPM or so (in my car - they advertise 500 to 600 over stock)
and I am pretty pleased with it.  It only cost $90 or so (hold on I'll look
. . . $83.95.)  It hasn't broken yet, and I've been beating the hell out of
it, so I assume it is pretty strong.  It looked solid when I put it in and
seemed to be of good quality.

I have it between a full-race prepped TH350 and a 350 with an est. hp of
around ~375-400hp or so.  The only problem I have with it is the stall speed
is a little low for my cam, so my short times really suck, so I am going to
a 3000-3500 stall converter later this year when I get the chance to put it in.

Overall I am quite pleased with it, and if I didn't want to race the car all
the time I'd keep it.

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com


----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 23:36:39 1994
Subject: Re: What do yall think?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8745
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>I've been looking for a 67 or 68 Camaro Convertible.  I went and looked
[nice description of car deleted]
>I think this is a pretty good deal, what do yall
>think?  I've seen people asking more than that for ones that had
>significant rust.

What do I think?  I think you've already decided.  ;-)  ;-)
Congratulations on your new purchase!

Steve Ravet	sravet@bangate.compaq.com
"Baby you're a genius when it comes to cooking up some chili sauce...."

----------
Posted by: emory!bangate.compaq.com!sravet
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 23:42:35 1994
Subject: Question about V-bel configurations on small block Chevy
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8746
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I have two corvettes that I want to update the v-belt's to a more
modern configuration.
One has the short water pump and the laternator mounted on a bracket that is 
hooked to the exhuast manifold - this uses a very long belt.
The other (a '75) mounts the alternaotr off of two bolts on the cylinder head
but still has the alternator hanging off the side.

Other than clearance problems with the fan / radiator set-up, is there any
reason I couldn't go (or shouldn't go) to a long water pump and the alternator
hung infront of the motor?  I think this would give a neater apprearance - 
perhaps a more reliable one at that.

Also does anyone make or know of a serpenten belt conversion kit?

Does anyone know if modern small blocks use short or long water pumps?

Thanks for any info.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 23:48:16 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #226 (June 14, 1994)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8747
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>Who uses a V-belt to drive a blower?  I think everyone now uses either a
>flat ribbed belt or a toothed (Gilmer?) belt.
>
>[ Anyone who installs a Paxton or Vortech supercharger on, say,
>a Mustang.  Single V-belt drive.  JGD]

Hmm, I was also under the impression that the Top Fuel dragsters and funny
cars were driving their blowers with V-belts now as well (4 or 5 side by side,
all on the same pulley.)  This is to cut down on the chances of a single
belt failure ruining the whole run.  I'm not 100% sure, but 99 and 44/100ths
sure this is how and why they are doing it, anyone else know for sure?  They 
may also be running this setup on the Alcohol cars too, but there I am totally
unsure...

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 23:54:33 1994
Subject: Re:  Torque convertors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8748
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

Markus writes:

-> I was wondering if anyone has any experience with aftermarket 12" torque
-> converters like the B&M torque master or similar. These TCs have a 
-> 2000-2100 stall versus the stock units 1600. They claim 
-> reduced tendency to creep in gear, improved acceleration and no special
-> mods required (ie auxillary trans cooler, higher numerical gearing etc).
-> 
-> I would like a little more punch off the line and don't like the thought
-> of replacing my 2.73 rear, 'cause I like to keep cruise rpm down. The
-> higher stall TC sounds just like the ticket.
-> 
-> All thought and comments most welcome!
-> 
-> BTW, the trans is a TH350 non lockup in a '75 Camaro with a ~300hp 350.


Markus,
A few years ago I replaced the stock torque converter in my '64 Chrysler NY
with a 3000 RPM stall converter.  It made a great improvement in getting
such a heavy car moving.  Much more fun to drive.  :^)
Other specs are:  413 CID, 4 bbl, 2.76 rear.

Your idea of a 2000-2100 stall speed will meet your goals of a little more
punch off the line while not letting the cruise RPMs get too high.
George Kulp

----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 15 23:59:44 1994
Subject: Radiator advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8749
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I bought the 68 Camaro Convertible.  It's runng a bit hot (~210F,
has a 180 thermostat), even at highway speeds.  The fan shroud is in the
trunk at the moment, doesn't have mounting brackets (anyone got a set
they want to sell?), but I suspect I probably need to recore the
radiator.  I've heard that it may be cheaper to buy a new universal
radiator, but I don't know where to look (around here no one knows how
to find anything that ain't in da computer, and I know I'll get reamed,
hard, if i go to a speed shop.  Ideally I'd like a nice new Modine
4-core.  RIght now I've got a pretty mild 350 and no AC, but both of
those are subject to change (think its about 90F and 90% humidity here
right now!) so I might as well do the radiator right this time.

On a different subject, I need a new top ASAP.  I've heard that
convertible tops are a royal pain to install.  Is this something that I
can easily do myself on the Camaro, or should I find someone who knows
what they're doing?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
    68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 00:05:42 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #226 (June 14, 1994)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8750
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


-> Who uses a V-belt to drive a blower?  I think everyone now uses
-> either a flat ribbed belt or a toothed (Gilmer?) belt.

> [ Anyone who installs a Paxton or Vortech supercharger on, say, a
> Mustang.  Single V-belt drive.  JGD]

 B&M also *strongly* recommends the V-belt or a serpentine belt for
their Roots blowers.
                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 00:11:05 1994
Subject: RE:Rearend conversions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8751
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


-> Since we're on the subject, I have always wondered why people choose
-> to cross-breed their machines by using a 9" Ford in a Chevy.

 Dollar per dollar, the Ford is cheaper and stronger.  You can build a
plenty strong 12 bolt Chevy rear, but it'll cost you a lot more than the
Ford.  That's also why Ford Toploader four speeds are in short supply -
probably half of them are in Camaros and Chevelles now.


-> trannies, rear-ends, whatever, wouldn't you want to keep your rod all
-> one make? Just seems like the sano thing to do.

 Hmm.  My car has a 351W block with 351C heads, GM T700 automatic, 8"
Ford posi rear, Nissan halfshafts, Corvette brake calipers and front
rotors, Mustang rack and pinion, Chrysler ball joints, Cadillac
spindles, Mazda windshield and some Mazda sheet metal, Audi headlight
buckets... seems logical enough to me.


-> There's also a 12-bolt aluminum rear cover just recently introduced
-> that bolts to the carrier and adds considerable structural integrity
-> to the whole unit.

 Yeah.  Mickey Thompson Enterprises and Summers Brothers were selling
those back in 1966.  What goes around comes around...
                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 14:11:10 1994
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-24*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8752
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

Now in its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation of 
info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, my 
favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks also to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated no later than every Friday morning and will 
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your 
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day 
window.

As mentioned previously, this listing is now being submitted to the new 
group rec.autos.sport.info.  Assuming the moderators approve, this list 
will be available in the r.a.s.i group from now on.  In an attempt to 
get the word to as many r.a.s readers as possible, I will continue to 
cross-post to r.a.s for a short time. (This again assumes the moderators 
of r.a.s.i do not object to my doing so.)

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

AMA SUPPORT DIVISION, MONTEREY (T)    06/16    2:00-3:00PM      HTS
SCCA WORLD CHALLENGE, LEXINGTON (T)   06/16    3:00-4:00PM      EMPS,
				    HSE,HTS,MSG,PASS,PSN,SCNE,SCP,SUN
In The Driver's Seat                  06/16    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/16    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (AWD & 4WD)                 06/16    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
WORLD SUPERBIKE SERIES (T)            06/16    9:00-10:00PM     HSE,
						    HTS,PSNW,SCP,SPTS
SCCA WORLD CHALLENGE, LEXINGTON (T)   06/16    10:00-11:00PM    HTS,
				      PASS,PSN,PSN2,SCC,SCOH,SCP,SPTS
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/16   11:00PM-12:00AM   HSE,
			HTS,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,SCNE,SCOH,SCP,SPTS,SUN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, MALAYSIA (T)     06/17    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld II                          06/17    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Movie: Duel                           06/18    2:00-4:00AM      WDCA
Motoworld II                          06/18    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
SODA, MEMORIAL DAY 100, LAKE GENEVA(T)06/18    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 06/18    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Monster Trucks                        06/18    9:00-9:30AM      ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic (engine disassembly06/18    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Driving Force                         06/18    9:30-10:30AM     ESPN2
MotorWeek                             06/18    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
PORSCHE SUPERCUP, SPAIN (T)           06/18    12:30-1:00PM     ESPN
IHRA, SPRING NATIONALS, BRISTOL (T)   06/18    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
ARCA, ALL SPORTS 200, MICHIGAN (T)    06/18    2:00-3:55PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/18    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Hydropower                            06/18    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN2
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/18    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/18    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Driving Force                         06/18    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, COLUMBUS (T)   06/18    3:30-4:30PM      NBC
WINSTON CUP, WINSTON SELECT (T)       06/18    3:30-5:30PM      TNN
In The Driver's Seat                  06/18    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Legacy)                    06/18    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
SATURDAY NIGHT LIGHTNING (L)          06/18    8:00-10:30PM     ESPN2
Power Wheels                          06/18    10:30-11:30PM    ESPN2
INDY LIGHTS, DETROIT (T)              06/19    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
SODA, LAKE GENEVA (T)                 06/19    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
MotoWorld                             06/19    7:30-8:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/19    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/19    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Chuck Etchells)  06/19    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/19    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/19    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/19   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             06/19    1:00-4:00PM      CBS
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Montreal)        06/19    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Chuck Etchells)  06/19    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/19    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/19    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
NASCAR, FEATHERLITE TOUR, NAZARETH (T)06/19    5:00-6:25PM      TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    06/19    6:25-6:30PM      TNN
SpeedWeek                             06/19    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (engine disassembly06/19    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/19    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/19    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/19    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      06/19    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/20    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
NHRA, MID-SOUTH NATIONALS, MEMPHIS    06/20    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
MotoWorld                             06/20    3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
SODA, LAKE GENEVA (T)                 06/20    4:30-5:30AM      ESPN
IOGP 1993 Season Review               06/20    1:30-2:00PM      HTS,
						 KBL,MSG,PASS,PSN,SCP
LEGENDS, CHARLOTTE (T)                06/20    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
IHRA, SPORTSMAN SERIES, BRISTOL (T)   06/21    3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
IHRA, SPRING NATIONALS, BRISTOL (T)   06/21    4:00-5:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             06/21    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
SATURDAY NIGHT LIGHTNING (T)          06/21    1:00PM           ESPN2
M.T. OFF-ROAD GP, LOS VEGAS (T)       06/21    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN
NASCAR Midseason Report               06/21    8:30-9:00PM      ESPN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, JAPAN (T)        06/21    9:00-10:00PM     ESPN
1994 AMA Supercross Season Highlights 06/21    10:00-10:30PM    ESPN
ARCA, ALL SPORTS 200, MICHIGAN (T)    06/22    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
TOYOTA CELEBRITY, LONG BEACH (T)      06/22    2:00-2:30PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    06/22    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, OZ (T)           06/23    4:30-5:30AM      ESPN
AMA SUPERBIKE, ELKHART LAKE (T)       06/23    2:00-3:00PM      HSE,
			  HTS,KBL,MSG,PASS,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,SCNE,SCP,SUN
MEMORIAL ALL-STARS, DRESSER (T)       06/23    3:00-4:00PM      EMPS,
					HSE,HTS,MSG,PASS,PSN,SCNE,SCP
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    06/23    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed (Unser's Mountain)   06/23    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             06/23    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/23    8:00-9:00PM      HSE,
				 KBL,PASS,PSN,PSN2,SCNE,SCOH,SPTS,SUN
USAC, SPRINT CARS, INDIANAPOLIS (L)   06/23    8:30-10:30PM     ESPN
MotorWeek (Volvo 850, MG TC, Allard)  06/23    8:30-9:00PM      MPT
AMA SUPERBIKE, ELKHART LAKE (T)       06/23    9:00-10:00PM     EMPS,
						     HTS,PASS,SCC,SCP
MEMORIAL ALL-STARS, DRESSER (T)       06/23    10:00-11:00PM    EMPS,
			      HSE,HTS,KBL,PASS,PSN,PSN2,SCOH,SPTS,SUN
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/23   11:00PM-12:00AM   EMPS,
			     HTS,KBL,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,SCNE,SCOH,SCP
MotoWorld                             06/24    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
MotoWorld                             06/25    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
USAC, SPRINT CARS, INDIANAPOLIS (T)   06/25    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

Driving Force                         06/25    9:30-10:30AM     ESPN2
BUSCH GN, WATKINS GLEN (L)            06/25    2:00-4:00PM      TNN
Road To The Brickyard                 06/26    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
ASA, BRAINERD (L)                     06/26    2:00-4:30PM      TNN
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (L)                 06/26    4:00-6:30PM      ESPN [1]
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (L)           06/26    6:00-7:00PM      TNN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, SPAIN (T)        06/30    9:00-10:00PM     ESPN
EXXON SUPREME, LIME ROCK (T)          07/02    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)              07/02    11:00AM          ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, DETROIT (T)          07/03    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, FRANCE (L)                 07/03    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
BUSCH GN, MILWAUKEE (?)               07/03    tba              tba
ASA, CEDAR RAPIDS (L)                 07/04    tba              TNN
SAAB PRO SERIES, WATKINS GLEN (T)     07/05    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/06   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/07   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/08   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, GREAT BRITAIN (L)          07/10    8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
WINSTON CUP, LOUDON (L)               07/10    1:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                07/10    1:30-3:30PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, S. BOSTON (?)               07/16    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               07/17    12:30PM          TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L)                  07/17    2:00-4:00PM      NBC [1]
PORSCHE CUP, FRANCE (T)               07/17    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
Road To The Brickyard                 07/17    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
EXXON SUPREME, INDIANAPOLIS (T)       07/17    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
NHRA, TOPEKA (T)                      07/18    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               07/23    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, TALADEGA (L)             07/24    12:15PM          CBS
PORSCHE CUP, BRITAIN (T)              07/24    12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, MORRISON(L)07/24    7:00PM           TNN
Road To The Brickyard                 07/30    2:00-2:30PM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, GERMANY (L)                07/31    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 07/31    tba              tba
INDYCAR, BROOKLYN, MI (L)             07/31    12:00-3:30PM     ESPN [1]
ASA, TOPEKA (L)                       07/31    tba              TNN
EXXON SUPREME, LAGUNA SECA (T)        07/31    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN2
NHRA, NATIONALS, SEARS POINT (?)      07/31    tba              tba
BRICKYARD 400 QUALIFICATION (L)       08/04    2:30-4:00PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (?)            08/05    tba              tba
BRICKYARD 400 QUALIFICATION (L)       08/05    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Brickyard 400 Preview                 08/05    8:30-9:30PM      ESPN
Brickyard 400 Pre-race                08/06   11:00AM-12:00PM   ESPN
BRICKYARD 400 (L)                     08/06    12:00PM          ABC
SAAB PRO SERIES, LAGUNA SECA (T)      08/07    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, KENT (?)             08/07    tba              tba
NHRA, TOPEKA (T)                      08/07    5:00-6:30PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, HUNGARY (L)                08/14    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         08/14    1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LEXINGTON, OH (L)            08/14    3:00-5:00PM      ABC [1]
NHRA, SEARS POINT (T)                 08/14    4:00PM           ESPN
EXXON SUPREME, PORTLAND (T)           08/14    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN2
IROC #4, MICHIGAN (T)                 08/14    tba              ABC
NHRA, DENVER (T)                      08/15    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
NHRA, DENVER (T)                      08/19    3:30-5:00AM      TNN
NHRA, NORTHWEST NATIONALS (T)         08/19    4:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (?)                08/20    tba              tba
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  08/21    8:30-10:30PM     ESPN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             08/21    12:30PM          CBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BRAINERD (?)         08/21    tba              tba
SAAB PRO SERIES, MID-OHIO (T)         08/23    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races.  The races are 
usually broadcast on a tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening 
following the race.  I understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to 
delay the broadcast as much as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so 
please use extra caution if you plan to tape the race.  If you have 
access to it, and your French isn't too rusty, you may also want to 
check out RDS.  RDS broadcasts every F1 race and most IndyCar races, and 
their F1 coverage usually also includes a 30 minute prerace show.  RDS 
and TSN generally use the ESPN feed, while CBC generally uses the BBC 
feed.  The exception to these rules is the Canadian Grand Prix.  Only 
CBC and SRC have the rights to the Canadian GP.  Thanks to Pierre 
Mailhot and Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
CBC      Canadian Broadcasting
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Montreal (French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      Canada (English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WOR      New York "Super Station"
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 14:24:23 1994
Subject: Re: Radiator advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8753
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>I bought the 68 Camaro Convertible.  It's runng a bit hot (~210F,
>has a 180 thermostat), even at highway speeds.  The fan shroud is in the
>trunk at the moment, doesn't have mounting brackets (anyone got a set
>they want to sell?), but I suspect I probably need to recore the
>radiator.  I've heard that it may be cheaper to buy a new universal
>radiator, but I don't know where to look (around here no one knows how
>to find anything that ain't in da computer, and I know I'll get reamed,
>hard, if i go to a speed shop.  Ideally I'd like a nice new Modine
>4-core.  RIght now I've got a pretty mild 350 and no AC, but both of
>those are subject to change (think its about 90F and 90% humidity here
>right now!) so I might as well do the radiator right this time.

Congratulations on your new ragtop.  Be sure to put that shroud in
place, that's a good sized gap between the radiator and fan. I was
having the same problem with my 69, new thermostat, replaced the
stock radiator and went to a bigger fan. It still ran to hot, the shroud
helped the most.

>On a different subject, I need a new top ASAP.  I've heard that
>convertible tops are a royal pain to install.  Is this something that I
>can easily do myself on the Camaro, or should I find someone who knows
>what they're doing?

I helped put one on a '66 Mustang acouple years ago, it took us awhile
put it turned out pretty good. In the end I was glad I had someone else
do mine the year before.

>Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
>


   Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

   47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
   69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73


----------
Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 14:30:30 1994
Subject: Re: What do yall think?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8754
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

The Hotrod List writes:
> >I've been looking for a 67 or 68 Camaro Convertible.  I went and looked
> [nice description of car deleted]
> >I think this is a pretty good deal, what do yall
> >think?  I've seen people asking more than that for ones that had
> >significant rust.
 
> What do I think?  I think you've already decided.  ;-)  ;-)
> Congratulations on your new purchase!
 
Thanx, it's sitting outside under a new cover right now :).
I really need to get the bodywork finished and the top fixed.
I spent all afternoon playing with the electrical system, had no brake
lights, turn signals or hazards when I got it.  Cleaned out the front
sockets and replaced the front turn signal ground wires (both had been
broken), and then had intermittant turn signals.  Brake lights and
hazards ocassionally decided to work, too.  Pulled the fuse block so I
could wiggle the wires on the backside.  In the process of wiggling with
the hazards are, I burned the heck out of the tip of my finger on one of
the terminals for the hazard fuse.  I investigated the front side of the
fusebox and all of the terminals are quite rusted.  I took a very small
round file and cleaned up the terminals a little bit, at least they
aren't getting hot now.  Anyone have some suggestions on how to properly
clean up that mess?  Can I get a repro fuse box that comes with new
terminals to crimp on my old wiring?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
    68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 14:36:29 1994
Subject: Re: Torque convertors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8755
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

Hi

I have a GER 10" converter with stall ~3400 in my car(-69 Mustang),
a race prepped FMX with an extra big oil cooler and 351
(TRW 11:1,big hydralic cam, intake headers modified heads +...).
I have run it in two year and I had no problem. 
With this converter the car is more on strip than street.
In next setup it will be (new smaller cam and) 11" converter, so
I can run it more on the street.

/Ulf
-- 
------------------------------------------------------
    /   /  /     /~~~    
   /   /  /     /~~    
  /___/  /___  /        ( = wolf )

----------
Posted by: emory!eua.ericsson.se!euaurg (Ulf Rosberg)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 14:43:00 1994
Subject: 351 Ford for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8756
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


For sale:  Ford 351X engine

 351W block, .040 oversize, new cam bearings, freeze plugs, Magnaflux,
 .    deburr, etc.
 B&A hyper-eutectic pistons, 351C dome, 351W pin height, 10.5:1 CR
 B&A Track BOSS 351 intake
 400M heads, modified for Windsor water flow and screw in studs (B&A),
 .    acid tanked, Magnafluxed
 TRW moly rings
 rods Magnafluxed, bolt seats polished, shot peened at Racing Head
 .    Service, Memphis
 crank Magnafluxed, turned
 balanced by Chrome-A-Shaft in Memphis
 TRW rod/main bearings
 B&A intake manifold gaskets

 starter, front-sump pan, water pump, pulleys, accessories, Ford
 electronic distributor, timing cover, valve covers, other doodads.
 Everything that is hot-tankable has been tanked.  So clean my wife
 hangs laundry on it.  (it's on an engine stand in the living room
 keeping the stereo company)

 needs:  screw-in studs, rockers, pushrods, camshaft, lifters, timing
 .       chain, gasket set, carburetor, valve job


 Price:  $1500        can ship, might deliver in central US


 All the expensive work has been done - just add your choice of cam and
 carburetor to make a mild street engine or track terror.  B&A Ford and
 Robert Yates sell these things to dirt track racers who twist them up
 pretty good - B&A claims the intake and bottom end are good to 8000 RPM
 if your cam and valvetrain can take it.  I was planning to use a custom
 ground solid lifter cam from Sig Erson (244/246, .600/.600, 106 lobe)
 which should have made good power from 4500 to 6500.  You could use a
 B303 Ford cam or Comp 272 if you didn't want something that radical.


 Reason I'm selling:  I convinced my wife a 592 stroker big block would
 .                    provide more room to hang laundry.


 queries to dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 16:51:05 1994
Subject: Re: Radiator advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8757
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

In a previous article, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) says:

>I bought the 68 Camaro Convertible.  It's runng a bit hot (~210F,
>has a 180 thermostat), even at highway speeds.  The fan shroud is in the
>trunk at the moment, doesn't have mounting brackets (anyone got a set

Try a few things before you go for the new rad...here's what happened to me...

(I have a 67 bird convert. with BB 400)

Mine ran to hot also (210-220F) in town stop and go...not as bad on
highway (so here is the order of things done...

New rad (4-core...took old one to a rad shop, they took off the tanks, and
made a 4 core to replace the plugged 3-core)

- STill ran hot 

160 degree thermo

- Still ran hot

Replaced Clutch fan with flex fan

- Still ran hot

Replaced flex fan with heavy duty Dodge semi-flex 7 blade fan...

- Very rarely gets past 180 degrees !!! Problem solved...

In your case, is it always at 210 (higway, in town) ??

Before doing the rad, try the following:

 - Mount the Rad shroud 
 - Check Thermo is working properly
 - If clutch fan, check clutch, if flex fan, throw away (get semi-flex, or
get one or two electric fans...no HP drag and only comes on when needed)
 - If auto, get a transmission cooler (extend trans life, puts less of a
load on the cooling system)

If you have any questions, Email me...I don't read this group often.

Steve


--
 "Grind on my gas pedal, Redliner touching my Heart"  | 67 Firebird Convert.
  by Max Webster                                      | 82 Seca 650 Turbo  
                                                      | 76 Honda XL250     
 Steve Slaby, Ottawa, Canada     DOD #1312            | 86 Jimmy       

----------
Posted by: emory!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!an492 (Steven Slaby)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 17:42:31 1994
Subject: Re: What do yall think?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8758
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>> What do I think?  I think you've already decided.  ;-)  ;-)
>> Congratulations on your new purchase!

Ditto from me!

>clean up that mess?  Can I get a repro fuse box that comes with new
>terminals to crimp on my old wiring?

Look at the Summit catalog - they carry an awful lot of early camaro 
specialty parts - SS steel exhaust for small block camaros - wiring 
harnesses including fuse blocks - and probable hundreds of chrom pieces.  
Somehow I don't think finding parts is going to be a problem.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 16 23:58:47 1994
Subject: Re: What do yall think?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8759
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>I've been looking for a 67 or 68 Camaro Convertible.  I went and looked
[nice description of car deleted]
>I think this is a pretty good deal, what do yall
>think?  I've seen people asking more than that for ones that had
>significant rust.

greetings:
  one word of caution from someone who is regretting a hasty purchace
(well, my wife is regretting it, i used it as an excuse to get a mig
and a boatload of tools :).  watch the bottom corners of the windshield.
rust seems to like to appear at teh base of the a pillar.  first it eats
thru the lower corner of the windshield recess, then runs down the inside
of the body, eating out that pannel.  you can drop a torque wrench into
the hole on the drivers side!  there is (in my case) quite a bit of good
metal nearby to weld to, and there is another structural member that
runs down the edge of the door, so i'm not too worried.  look for one
of the camero clubs in the back of the car mags, i'm sure one of them
could help you out w/ a laundry list of things to look out for.

later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 17 02:08:06 1994
Subject: Boyd's in Smithsonian Magazine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8760
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I was sitting at the physical therapist's today (damn, this BBQ biz
is hard on the old back!) when out of desparation, I picked up a copy
of the July 93 Smithsonain magazine (see how desparate I was).  What 
caught my attention was a familiar looking front grille and an even
more familiar set of flames.  The feature article by Richard Wolkomir
was about Boyd Coddington of Rods by Boyd, purveyor of the 
CadZZIlla and other such art on wheels.

"Great!", I thought, "just what we need, the wine'n'brie set discovering
street rods.  Then as I read the article, I realized that this is
probably the best written article on Boyd, the person who literally
defines streed rodding these days, that I'd ever read.  None of this
breathless "look what we begged this vendor out of" prose that is the
bane of today's mainstream hotrod magazines.  Wolkomir is a gifted
writer and though it is obvious he had never been around a serious rod,
he did an excellent job and his perspective is interesting.  And the
pictures are gorgeous!  It is well worth the effort to find this 
back issue if for no other reason than to see CheZoom, probably Boyd's
best work to date.

John


-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
Clinton at Normandy for D-day is worse than Hitler presiding over the 
Holocaust Museum.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 17 16:58:44 1994
Subject: Re:  Torque convertors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article dbp78fg@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>Markus writes:
>
>-> I was wondering if anyone has any experience with aftermarket 12" torque
>-> converters like the B&M torque master or similar. These TCs have a 
>-> 2000-2100 stall versus the stock units 1600. They claim 

{ snip }

>Markus,
>A few years ago I replaced the stock torque converter in my '64 Chrysler NY
>with a 3000 RPM stall converter.  It made a great improvement in getting
>such a heavy car moving.  Much more fun to drive.  :^)
>Other specs are:  413 CID, 4 bbl, 2.76 rear.
>
>Your idea of a 2000-2100 stall speed will meet your goals of a little more
>punch off the line while not letting the cruise RPMs get too high.
>George Kulp

Thanks! 

Sounds like I should try this then. What do you guys think about the need for
an auxillary trans cooler when installing a 2000 rpm stall converter? I know
it's a good idea, but is it necessary when driving in rather cold climate (60
80F with 90 tops)? 

There will be a large swap meet over here in July, and I'll look for an oil
cooler there. BTW, is it still recommended to mount the cooler after the
regular in-radiator cooler?

Markus



----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 17 17:03:52 1994
Subject: Re : Smithsonian
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Now there's a coincidence. I was sitting in my wife's chiropractor's office 
last August while she was getting doctored up and I picked up the same issue
of Smithsonian. The article on Boyd is great. Needless to say, I liberated the magazine from the office much to my wife's amusement/consternation. Highly
recommended.

Jeff Armfield

[Gee Jeff, there must be a force field between us or something.  Seems that
that copy of the magazine somehow managed to end up on my desk too :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Jeffrey S Armfield 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 20 00:18:01 1994
Subject: Re: Boyd's in Smithsonian Magazine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: I was sitting at the physical therapist's today (damn, this BBQ biz
: is hard on the old back!) when out of desparation, I picked up a copy
: of the July 93 Smithsonain magazine (see how desparate I was).  What 
: caught my attention was a familiar looking front grille and an even
: more familiar set of flames.  The feature article by Richard Wolkomir
: was about Boyd Coddington of Rods by Boyd, purveyor of the 
: CadZZIlla and other such art on wheels.

sorry to burst your balloon John, but Richard only wrote part of the 
article, if you looked a bit closer you'd have noticed that the greater
percentage of the article was written by Gray Baskerville (of hot rod mags
fame) - he helped Richard write it 

in spite of that - it was/is a great article on not only Boyd, but
hot rodding in particular - BTW Boyd's designer in the article, Chip Foose,
son of Sam Foose, had just graduated from art school and was scooped up
by Boyd (Chip's reputation while he was in school and doing some design
work not only for his dad but for others preceeded him and helped him
land a good job)

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 20 00:24:15 1994
Subject: Torque converters and tranny coolers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Markus writes:
>What do you guys think about the need for
>an auxillary trans cooler when installing a 2000 rpm stall converter? I know
>it's a good idea, but is it necessary when driving in rather cold climate (60
>80F with 90 tops)?


It's not so much a matter of what the weather is like as it is how
much power is lost in the converter.  If you compute

lost power = (input RPM - output RPM) x torque

you will know how much power is lost in the converter, at least to
a first order approximation.  This power turns directly into heat.
Driving with the converter not locked up greatly increases the
heat developed in the exhaust oil from the converter.  By "not
locked up" I mean when the difference between the input RPM and
output RPM of the converter is more than about 300 RPM.  This will
happen when the engine RPM is at or below the stall speed and there
is a significant load on the transmission's output.

The goal is to keep the oil temperature below 270 degrees but above
about 160 degrees.  If the oil is too hot then it begins to break
down and oxidize; if it is too cold then it does not lubricate well.

I run a cooler between the trans oil output and the radiator heat
exchanger; this allows the cooler to shed excess heat before the
radiator heat exchanger gets it.  It also allows the radiator heat
exchanger to _warm up_ the fluid on a cold start and this improves the
ability of the transmission fluid to lubricate the tranny parts.  My
fluid stays red between changes even though I run a 2500 RPM converter
on a _heavy_ vehicle.  The fluid will turn brown if it has been overheated.
I haven't ever measured fluid temperatures after heavy use such as
a quarter mile run but I find that the fluid is about 200 degrees F
after normal street driving.

When you plumb the cooler, make sure that the plumbing can take
the temperature and pressure.  You may encounter up to 300 degree F
oil (maybe more under abusive conditions) and possibly up to about
200 PSI pressure.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 20 00:30:15 1994
Subject: Formula SAE list
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Hello all

	I am proud to anounce that there is now a mailing list for the
Socioty of Automotive engineer's Formula SAE competition.  Topics of
disucion have gone from difrent teams cars to budgets to starting a new team.
to subscribe send a mesage with the subecet of "subscribe" to

fsae-request@list.gatech.edu

	Don't put anything in the body or it will bounce.  Send posting
for the list to fsae@list.gatech.edu

Henry Sommer

P.S. The hotrod is the model that fsae is based on because it is the best of
all the lists I've tried.  Hopefully fsae will be run just as well and
have as high of a signal to noise ratio.  There have only been about three
things I've seen in the past year that were junk mail.  Not bad for a list
going on 8-9000 messages. 

[Thank you.  I'm even prouder to say that I've ever only had to junk
4 or 5 messages as inappropriate and all but a couple were MAKE MONEY FAST
type messages.  Good group of people  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 20 17:42:01 1994
Subject: Engine Conversion Kits
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I have always admired the beautifully designed bodies of Italian
cars, but their lack of mechanical reliability and the difficulty
of finding parts has kept me from buying one.

However, I have found a mechanic who is willing to try swapping
out the engine and drive train for a more reliable system, but we
need some details on how to proceed.

I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience with or
knows something about converting the original engine and
transmission on an Alfa Romeo or Fiat to a high performance 4
cylinder Nissan with manual transmission, or even better, a V6
with manual transmission.


Thank You,

Pete

----------
Posted by: Peter Droog 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 12:19:22 1994
Subject: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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 I've been adding some new figures to my ENGINE.FYI engine weight chart.
Some of the numbers are interesting.  For example, from Automobile
Magazine, January 1991, I got the following two figures:

Volvo 960, 3.0L 24 valve inline 6:  401 pounds   (aluminum block/head)
Acura Legend 24 valve V6:  491 pounds

 Now consider:

Ford 5.0 (iron) V8:  460 pounds
Buick 90 deg (iron) V6:  375 pounds


 Some of those new engines may be aluminum, but they use a LOT of it!
And they're not particularly small, either.


 On a side note, I've come across yet another article on the little
Crosley engines.  The Crosley COBRA motor (COpper BRAzed) was stamped
out of about 120 pieces of sheet metal, then brazed together.  The
process was originally developed for the US Navy, but as far as I can
find Crosley was the only company ever to use it.  (yes, I know some
stationary engines are still welded up from pieces, but they're not car
engines)  The COBRA four cylinder engine weighed  59 pounds!
Production stopped due to corrosion problems - antifreeze and corrosion
inhibitors weren't common in the 1950s.

 Nowadays corrosion would be no problem.  Now, take a look at the
average Formula 1 car - using the engine as a stressed member requires
lots of metal.  A brazed steel block could be lighter and stronger...
                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 12:24:51 1994
Subject: Hood Scoops
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I need to cut a hole in the hood of my car to get some cool air to the intake 
and was wondering what are some good places to get a scoop from.

Thanks


Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 18:15:27 1994
Subject: electric hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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My friend Alan Coconni makes the best electric cars around. After
designing the sunyraycer and the impact, he built his third generation
design. It was featured in a road & track review, I think Oct 1992.
His daily driver does 0-60 in under 8 sec, has a range of over 100
miles, and a top speed around 110 depending on gearing. This is with a
100 kwatt controller.

He is now working on a 150 kwatt controller (200 hp). He thinks with
aggressive gearing, he can do 0-60 in under 6 seconds, with a top
speed of 85 mph. This is with a 1 gear transmission. Not exactly a
rocket, but fast enough for a daily driver. Range will be over 100
miles, and the newest batteries have lasted 15k miles with no signs of
wear.

He also converts selected gas model cars to electric power.
He likes the honda CX and VX, but will do saturns too.

	Jeff turbo Deifik	turbo@isi.edu

----------
Posted by: Jeff Deifik 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 18:21:12 1994
Subject: Speedometer Cable
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Anyone know what length speedometer cable housing I need for a 68 Camaro
(smallblock and TH350 if it matters)?  And does anyone know of an
autoparts chain that stocks it?


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
    68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 18:26:30 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>  Nowadays corrosion would be no problem.  Now, take a look at the 
> average Formula 1 car - using the engine as a stressed member requires 
> lots of metal.  A brazed steel block could be lighter and stronger... 
>                                                         
> 
> ---------- 
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams) 

Yes...good conclusion but..

I would bet that since that type of engine building is so 
labor intensive and prone to error and inconsistency, it
wouldn't be a safe engine for Formula 1. Too hard to tell
what really works. Basically, Formula 1 cars are running labaratories.

The crew and engineers are constantly collecting data. Introducing
that kind of inconsistency would virtually render that data collection
useless. Therefore they couldn't really know what works and know
the affects of such changes within a reasonable margin of error.
If you could make these kinds of engines within a reasonable 
margin of error it would make perfect sense. Probably why they 
haven't been mass-produced either. 

Rick


----------
Posted by: Rick Fisk 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 22:31:27 1994
Subject: Re: electric hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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The Hotrod List writes:
> 
> My friend Alan Coconni makes the best electric cars around. After
> designing the sunyraycer and the impact, he built his third generation
> design. It was featured in a road & track review, I think Oct 1992.
> His daily driver does 0-60 in under 8 sec, has a range of over 100
> miles, and a top speed around 110 depending on gearing. This is with a
> 100 kwatt controller.
 
Wait...  the Sunraycer was designed by Aerovironment (sp?), and the
Impact was done internally by GM.  Motors and power electronics for both
were dones by Hughes.  What exactly did he degign?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
    68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 21 22:35:50 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>The crew and engineers are constantly collecting data. Introducing
>that kind of inconsistency would virtually render that data collection
>useless. Therefore they couldn't really know what works and know
>the affects of such changes within a reasonable margin of error.
>If you could make these kinds of engines within a reasonable 
>margin of error it would make perfect sense. Probably why they 
>haven't been mass-produced either. 

If you haven't heard the latest Ferrari F1 car uses such construction for
the gearbox casing.  The primary reasoning was to increase its torsional 
rigidity, or so is said in the popular press.  

Cary McCAllister

----------
Posted by: Cary McCallister 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 22 03:06:04 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> the affects of such changes within a reasonable margin of error. If
-> you could make these kinds of engines within a reasonable
-> margin of error it would make perfect sense. Probably why they

 Crosley had no problem making the engines accurately.  They were light,
cheap, and strong.  Unfortunately they were prone to corrosion and
rotted right through, so they changed to the similar but heavier and
weaker CIBA engine a few years later.  Variants of the CIBA are still in
production for stationary powerplants.
                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 22 12:20:23 1994
Subject: Engine Conversion
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       Does anyone have information on kits or plans
for fitting a V6 Chevy or Buick or V8 Chevy in a     
Porsche 924.

----------
Posted by: emory!wam.umd.edu!ppremysl (Philip A. Premysler)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 22 12:32:21 1994
Subject: Re: Hood Scoops
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> I need to cut a hole in the hood of my car to get some cool air to the intake 
> and was wondering what are some good places to get a scoop from.

Jegs or Summit have the cheapest priced hoods. I bought a 5 inch
flat snorkle type for $39.xx through Jegs. Most places wanted $60+

..Don

----------
Posted by: emory!sclara.qms.com!don (Don Henslee)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 22 16:23:04 1994
Subject: Re: Speedometer Cable
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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> Anyone know what length speedometer cable housing I need for a 68 Camaro
> (smallblock and TH350 if it matters)?  And does anyone know of an
> autoparts chain that stocks it?

No, but it doesn't matter.  GM sells a speedometer cable kit.
It is universal, you cut it to size, then attach the special end.
If its like my corvette, you have to remove the cable from the housing
at the speedometer end, which may mean a bunch of dash disassembly.

By the way the kit was about $10 when I got mine.  Dealer had one in stock.

Kevin Smith
kevins@ibeam.intel.com

----------
Posted by: emory!ibeam.intel.com!kevins
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 12:42:12 1994
Subject: Re: speedo cable replacement
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I got a replacement speed cable at a local NAPA Auto Parts place.  They asked
how long I wanted it, ordered it, and I picked it up the next day.  I think
it was a bargain at $8.00 complete.

Sometimes you can salvage old ones that are sticky by just slipping the shaft
out, degreasing it with brake-cleaner, and using motorcycle "chain-lube" from
a spray can to goop it up.  You can also sometimes keep the outer sleeve and
just replace the inner shaft with a universal cut-to-length one.  They come
with some sort of tool to swage the end piece onto the cable -- you put the
cable into the end piece, put the end piece into the tool, and squeeze it in
a vise.

On a Camaro, you might want the cable a few inches longer than you think
because it has to make a tight bend where it comes out of the side of the
tranny -- if you have an extra few inches, you won't have to make the bend so
tight.

I used nylon ties to keep the cable fairly stationary in my cars and trucks,
because if it's loose and rubs on a sharp edge of something, it'll eventually
get chewed up. 

Good luck,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 12:47:27 1994
Subject: Shifter/console
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I've concluded that I must have a Powerglide shifter in my Camaro, which
doesn't work particularly well with my TH350.  I've got a deluxe 68
console, but I'm missing the mount brackets and all of the pieces
associated with the shifter.  I also want to stick a few SportComp
hauges under the dash, and can't do it with the 68 console.  Does anyone
know if a 67 console has adequate clearance to fit a few sportcomp
gauges under the dash?  I think I've seen a 67 like that, but I'm not
sure.  ANd back to the shifter, any reccomendations?  Does anyone make a
good aftermarket shifter designed to fit one of the early Camaro
consoles?  I may just say screw the console, since the extra storage is
nice, but I'm not sure its worth the money/trouble to do right.  In that
case, any suggestions on floor mounted shifters?  I don't plan on doing
much drag racing, but I might ocassionally.  Something with a ratchet
mechanism that can be disabled might be nice.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
    68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 17:08:48 1994
Subject: Flexplates
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I had my rotating assembly balanced (dynamic & static) and later noticed that
my stock stamped steel flexplate was showing signs of stress and several teeth
were chipped (shouldn't the balancer have noticed and told me?)  My question 
is, would my flexplate have been balanced separate from the crank/rods/pistons?
So can I get a new flexplate, balance it separately, and be OK?  Or do I have
to rebalance the whole rotating assembly (ugh) ?  
  

----------
Posted by: "MATT BOSSARD , 1-2508, PGR#1541, MS D1-50" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 22:44:17 1994
Subject: Re:  Shifter/console
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I am not sure about just what will fit in the console of your Camaro.

I have had good luck with my new B&M Megashifter in my Chevelle.
It has a ratchet/no ratchet selection and provides pretty good 
feel.  I like being able to yank it right into D, and the simple
rachet shifts up or down.  OTOH, it is a bit flexable on the left 
to right axis, and the rubber boot is a bit hard to seal with the 
console.

Other Chevelle notes.  Just painted yesteday!  Charcoal grey with
a black interior is REALLY HOT in the SoCal sun.  Wife says "just buy
the air conditioner kit"....  I put all the sound deadener I could 
find in as I assembled the car ( floor, hood, firewall, trunk, etc ).  
It is very quiet on the highway, even quieter than my Saturn!

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 22:49:18 1994
Subject: dist stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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 Does anyone know the end-play spec on a small block Chevy distributor?
I figured .090" was out of spec and got one of the Mr. Gasket shim kits,
but I can't find the end play spec in anything I don't have loaned out.
                                                                                                                             

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 22:54:20 1994
Subject: Re: Flexplates
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Matt Bossard wrote:
>My question 
>is, would my flexplate have been balanced separate from the crank/rods/pistons?
>So can I get a new flexplate, balance it separately, and be OK?

This depends on how well the original job was done.  A good balancing
job does each element separately and then, with all the pieces assembled,
makes a final tweak in one or two places to get the entire assembly right.
That final tweak may have been done on the flexplate.

Factory flexplates are frequently marked with a spot of paint to show
the light or heavy side.  A factory crankshaft may be marked to
show its light or heavy side.  If the parts are so marked then the
factory aligns the marks either on the same or opposite sides to
minimize the total unbalance of the assembly - that is, they try to
get the light and heavy sides opposite to each other.

In Matt's case all that I can say is that it's worth a try replacing
the flex plate.  If the resulting unbalance is objectionable then it
may be necessary to rebalance the entire rotating assembly, or to
conjure up a way to figure where the heavy side of the assembly is
and then add weight to the opposite side.  A stroboscope may be useful.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

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Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 23 22:59:43 1994
Subject: RE: Flexplates
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>I had my rotating assembly balanced (dynamic & static) and later noticed that
>my stock stamped steel flexplate was showing signs of stress and several teeth
>were chipped (shouldn't the balancer have noticed and told me?)  My question 
>is, would my flexplate have been balanced separate from the crank/rods/pistons?
>So can I get a new flexplate, balance it separately, and be OK?  Or do I have
>to rebalance the whole rotating assembly (ugh) ?  

If you had the harmonic balancer and flexplat balanced as an assebly with 
the crank then getting another balancer could through off the balance.  
However - the machine shop should be able to closely (ie. close enough) 
match the balance on the flex plate with that of the new flex plate.

For example (assuming its like a tire machine) the machine says the 
flex-plate needs the equivalent of 10 .oz at 5" from the center - then the 
machine shop should set up the new flex-plate to give the same error.  They 
should be able to get real close - and given normal tolerances - you'll 
never notice the difference.

The last motor I had balanced - I didn't give the shop the harmonic 
balancer and flywheel.  SInce I didn't know if I was going to get a Fluidic 
Damper or maybe switch to an automatic - I didn't want parts swapping to be 
limited.  Due to the heavy forged pistons they had to add quite a bit of 
mallory metal to the crank.  This is not always possible but I believe its 
preferable - your's is just one reason why.

Dirk

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Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 12:43:18 1994
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-25*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

Now in its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation of 
info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, my 
favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special thanks also to 
Curt Swinehart for providing me with info. on the many regional sports 
networks.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings 
before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated no later than every Friday morning and will 
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your 
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day 
window.

As mentioned previously, this listing is now being submitted to the new 
group rec.autos.sport.info.  Assuming the moderators approve, this list 
will be available in the r.a.s.i group from now on.  In an attempt to 
get the word to as many r.a.s readers as possible, I will continue to 
cross-post to r.a.s for a short time. (This again assumes the moderators 
of r.a.s.i do not object to my doing so.)

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA) NETWORK*

MotoWorld                             06/24    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
MotoWorld                             06/25    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
USAC, SPRINT CARS, INDIANAPOLIS (T)   06/25    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 06/25    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (truck conversions)06/25    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Driving Force                         06/25    9:30-10:30AM     ESPN2
MotorWeek                             06/25    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/25    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, WATKINS GLEN (L)            06/25    2:00-4:00PM      TNN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/25    2:30PM           NESN
AMA SUPERCROSS, MOUNT MORRIS (T)      06/25    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, NAZARETH (T)                06/25    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
Driving Force                         06/25    4:00PM           ESPN2
MotorWeek                             06/25    5:00-5:30PM      MPT
APBA HYDROPLANE RACING, DETROIT (T)   06/25    5:00-6:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/25    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/25    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
In The Driver's Seat                  06/25    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
SATURDAY NIGHT LIGHTNING (L)          06/25    7:30-10:30PM     ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             06/25    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
NASCAR, DAYTONA DASH-GOODY DASH (SD)  06/25    8:00-9:30PM      ESPN
1994 AMA Supercross Series Highlights 06/25    9:30-10:00PM     ESPN
Power Wheels                          06/25    10:30-11:30PM    ESPN2
MotoWorld                             06/26    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             06/26    4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/26    6:00AM           EMPS,
						 KBL,MSG,PSN,PSN2,SCP
MotoWorld                             06/26    7:30-8:00AM      ESPN
Movie: Red Line 7000                  06/26    8:30-9:50AM      MAX
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/26    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/26    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N. Bonnett's Winners (Sterling Marlin)06/26    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              06/26    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/26    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/26   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
ASA, BRAINERD (L)                     06/26    2:00-4:30PM      TNN
IHRA, SPORTSMAN SERIES, STEELE (T)    06/26    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (L)                 06/26    4:00-6:30PM      ESPN [1]
N. Bonnett's Winners (Sterling Marlin)06/26    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               06/26    5:00-5:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              06/26    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans, Topeka (L)  06/26    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
FORMULA II SUPERCUP (T)               06/26    6:00PM           HSE
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (L)           06/26    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
Road To The Brickyard 400             06/26    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold        06/26    6:30-7:30PM      HTS
Shadetree Mechanic (truck conversions)06/26    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
SCCA, TRANS-AM, PORTLAND (T)          06/26    7:30-9:30PM      EMPS,
	   HSE,HTS,NESN,PASS,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,SCNE,SCOH,SCP,SCP,SPTS,SUN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      06/26    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           06/26    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/26    9:30PM         NESN,SUN
FORMULA II SUPERCUP (T)               06/26    10:30PM          SPTS
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      06/26    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (La Carrera)  06/26   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/26    11:30PM          SPTS
American Sports Cavalcade             06/27    12:00-1:25AM     TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans, Topeka (T)  06/27    1:55-2:25AM      TNN
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (T)           06/27    2:25-2:55AM      TNN
NASCAR, DAYTONA DASH-GOODY DASH (T)   06/27    4:00-5:30AM      ESPN
LEGENDS, DAYTONA (T)                  06/27    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/27    9:00PM           PRTK
ARCA 200 (T)                          06/28    12:00AM          SPTS
SATURDAY NIGHT LIGHTNING (T)          06/28    1:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
SUMMER LEGENDS SERIES (L?)            06/28    8:00PM           NESN,
							     SPTS,SUN
NASCAR, PIZZAPLUSALLPRO 250,BRISTOL(T)06/28    9:00-10:30PM     ESPN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/28    10:00PM          NESN
AMA SUPERBIKES (T)                    06/29    9:00AM           SCC
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/29    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Chevrolet Showroom                    06/29    8:00-9:00PM      QVC
NASCAR Midseason Report               06/30    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
NASCAR, PIZZAPLUSALLPRO 250,BRISTOL(T)06/30    3:30-5:00AM      ESPN
AMA SUPPORT DIVISION (T)              06/30    2:00-3:00PM      EMPS,
			       HTS,KBL,MSG,PASS,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,SCP,SUN
APBA, HYDORPLANE RACING, DETROIT (T)  06/30    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
MEMORIAL ALLSTARS NATIONALS,DRESSER(T)06/30    3:00-4:00PM      EMPS,
				   HTS,MSG,PASS,PSN.PSN2,SCNE,SCP,SUN
In The Driver's Seat                  06/30    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS SERIES (T)             06/30    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    06/30    8:00-9:00PM      HSE,
					   PSN,PSN2,SCNE,SCP,SPTS,SUN
AMA SUPPORT DIVISION (T)              06/30    9:00-10:00PM     EMPS,
					HSE,KBL,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,SCP,SUN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, SPAIN (T)        06/30    9:30-10:30PM     ESPN
AMA SUPPORT DIVISION (T)              06/30    9:30-10:30PM     SPTS
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (T)    06/30   11:00PM-12:00AM   EMPS,
			      HTS,KBL,PASS,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,PSNW,SCNE,SCP
AMA SUPPORT DIVISION (T)              07/01    12:00-1:00AM     PRTK
FORMULA II SUPERCUP (T)               07/01    1:30AM           PRTK
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (T)    07/01    2:00-3:00AM      SCC
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (T)                 07/01    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
AMA SUPPORT DIVISION (T)              07/01    5:00-6:00AM      EMPS,
				    HSE,KBL,MSG,PASS,PSN,PSN2,SCNE,SCP
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (T)    07/01    7:00-8:00AM      KBL,
						EMPS,MSG,PASS,PSN,SCP
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (T)    07/01    10:00-11:00AM    EMPS,
					    KBL,MSG,PASS,PSN,SCNE,SCP
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, COLUMBUS (T)   07/01    12:00-1:00PM     EMPS,
				   HTS,KBL,MSG,PASS,PRTK,PSN,PSN2,SCP
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, COLUMBUS (T)   07/01    1:00-2:00PM      HSE
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (T)    07/01    5:00-6:00PM      MSG,
					       PRTK,PSN,PSN2,SCOH,SCP
In The Driver's Seat                  07/01    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
IMSA, EXXON SUPREME, LIME ROCK (T)    07/02    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)              07/02    11:00AM          ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, DETROIT (T)          07/03    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, FRANCE (L)                 07/03    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
BUSCH GN, MILWAUKEE (?)               07/03    tba              tba
ASA, CEDAR RAPIDS (L)                 07/04    tba              TNN
SAAB PRO SERIES, WATKINS GLEN (T)     07/05    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/06   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/07   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/08   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, GREAT BRITAIN (L)          07/10    8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
WINSTON CUP, LOUDON (L)               07/10    1:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                07/10    1:30-3:30PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, S. BOSTON (?)               07/16    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               07/17    12:30PM          TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L)                  07/17    2:00-4:00PM      NBC [1]
PORSCHE CUP, FRANCE (T)               07/17    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
Road To The Brickyard                 07/17    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
EXXON SUPREME, INDIANAPOLIS (T)       07/17    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
NHRA, TOPEKA (T)                      07/18    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               07/23    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, TALADEGA (L)             07/24    12:15PM          CBS
PORSCHE CUP, BRITAIN (T)              07/24    12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, MORRISON(L)07/24    7:00PM           TNN
Road To The Brickyard                 07/30    2:00-2:30PM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, GERMANY (L)                07/31    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN,
								 RDS [1]
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 07/31    tba              tba
INDYCAR, BROOKLYN, MI (L)             07/31    12:00-3:30PM     ESPN [1]
ASA, TOPEKA (L)                       07/31    tba              TNN
EXXON SUPREME, LAGUNA SECA (T)        07/31    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN2
NHRA, NATIONALS, SEARS POINT (?)      07/31    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races.  The races are 
usually broadcast on a tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening 
following the race.  I understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to 
delay the broadcast as much as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so 
please use extra caution if you plan to tape the race.  If you have 
access to it, and your French isn't too rusty, you may also want to 
check out RDS.  RDS broadcasts every F1 race and most IndyCar races, and 
their F1 coverage usually also includes a 30 minute prerace show.  RDS 
and TSN generally use the ESPN feed, while CBC generally uses the BBC 
feed.  The exception to these rules is the Canadian Grand Prix.  Only 
CBC and SRC have the rights to the Canadian GP.  Thanks to Pierre 
Mailhot and Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* Network Designations

A&E      Arts & Entertainment Network
CBC      Canadian Broadcasting
EMPS     Regional Sports Network (New York)
ESPN     ESPN Sports Network
ESPN2    ESPN Sports Network 2
HBO      Home Box Office
HSE      Regional Sports Network (Houston)
HTS      Regional Sports Network (Baltimore & DC)
KBL      Regional Sports Network (Pittsburg)
MAX      Cinemax
MPT      Maryland Public TV
MSC      Midwest Sports Channel
MSG      Madison Square Garden
MTV      Music Television
PASS     Regional Sports Network (Detroit)
PRTK     Regional Sports Network (LA)
PSN      Prime Sports Network
PSN2     Prime Sports Network (Midwest & Mountains)
PSNW     Prime Sports Network (Northwest)
QVC      home shopping
RDS      Montreal (French)
SCC      Sports Channel Chicago
SCNE     Sports Channel New England
SCNY     Sports Channel New York
SCOH     Sports Channel Ohio
SCP      Sports Channel Pacific
SHOW     Showtime
SPTS     Sport South Network
SRC      Societe Radio-Canada (French)
SUN      Sunshine Network (Regional Sports Network, SE USA)
TBS      Atlanta "Super Station"
TNN      The Nashville Network
TSN      Canada (English)
USA      USA Network
WBFF     Baltimore
WDCA     Washington, DC
WGN      Chicago "Super Station"
WOR      New York "Super Station"
-------

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Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 12:53:23 1994
Subject: Re: Hood Scoops
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8786
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: I need to cut a hole in the hood of my car to get some cool air to the intake 
: and was wondering what are some good places to get a scoop from.

: Rob

Try going to some local swap meets if they have them in your area.  Me and my
friends have found some great stuff, include a LARGE bubble Harwood scoop for
20 bucks, really cheap.  Check them out.

--
                                                                                =================================================================================      Scott "HemiCuda" Moseman        hemicuda@starbase.neosoft.com           =================================================================================             '93 Ford Mustang Cobra-R  ->  Smokin' the competition       

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Posted by: emory!starbase.neosoft.com!hemicuda (Scott Moseman)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 12:56:34 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8787
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> On a side note, I've come across yet another article on the little
>Crosley engines.  The Crosley COBRA motor (COpper BRAzed) was stamped
>out of about 120 pieces of sheet metal, then brazed together.  The
>process was originally developed for the US Navy, but as far as I can
>find Crosley was the only company ever to use it.  (yes, I know some
>stationary engines are still welded up from pieces, but they're not car
>engines)  The COBRA four cylinder engine weighed  59 pounds!
>Production stopped due to corrosion problems - antifreeze and corrosion
>inhibitors weren't common in the 1950s.

> Nowadays corrosion would be no problem.  Now, take a look at the
>average Formula 1 car - using the engine as a stressed member requires
>lots of metal.  A brazed steel block could be lighter and stronger...
>                                                        

Almost all early aircraft engines were made up of welded steel members.
Check out the WW1 Bennz 6 cylinders, for instance, or any number of post war
V8s, V12s, etc. Many of these were around 2 cu. in. per pound of weight.
I think it would be very interesting to build a modern type engine this way
Anyone with a big press??

;-)
Jim Davies






----------
Posted by: Jim Davies 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 13:01:47 1994
Subject: Exhaust Hp ratings?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8788
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As it nears time to install my 473FE into my Cougar, I find myself contemplating
the design of the exhaust system. I am going with an as yet undetermined brand
of tube headers, hell who needs spark plug clearance anyways, right. :)
Behind these headers I'll thinking 2.5" or 2.75" pipe. Interconnect these at
the proper place with 1 maybe 2 crossovers, run them out the back to a pair of
Supertrapps, 3" inlet and core. 
The length from the collectors to the exhaust egress is about 7.5-8.0',
How does one go about determining the Horsepower potential of this system.
I need a system that will flow sufficiently for ~600Hp.

Millam

----------
Posted by: emory!pine.cse.nau.edu!met (MTN-KAT)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 13:06:43 1994
Subject: '40 Ford 4D
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8789
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I just bought a '40 Ford and i'm looking for all kinds of parts for
it. Primarily I need the interior trim molding for the winshield, but
any leads on parts at all would be helpfull.

Tony K.

----------
Posted by: emory!aol.com!grailpm (GrailPM)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 16:20:26 1994
Subject: Re: dist stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8790
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I just did this last weekend, because the tach drive in the distributor ate
itself.  For a 69 `vette the distibutor shaft end play is .002 - .007.
This information from Chevy '69 Service manual, which doesn't distinguish
between distributors for small block and big-block.  My recollection is that
there is no difference between distributors for big vs small chevy.

Kevin Smith
kevins@ibeam.intel.com

----------
Posted by: emory!ibeam.intel.com!kevins
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jun 24 20:34:14 1994
Subject: Re: Engine Conversion Kits
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8791
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|> 
|> I have always admired the beautifully designed bodies of Italian
|> cars, but their lack of mechanical reliability and the difficulty
|> of finding parts has kept me from buying one.
|> 
|> However, I have found a mechanic who is willing to try swapping
|> out the engine and drive train for a more reliable system, but we
|> need some details on how to proceed.
|> 
|> I would appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience with or
|> knows something about converting the original engine and
|> transmission on an Alfa Romeo or Fiat to a high performance 4
|> cylinder Nissan with manual transmission, or even better, a V6
|> with manual transmission.
|> 
|> 
|> Thank You,
|> 
|> Pete
|> 
|> ----------
|> Posted by: Peter Droog 

I, too, am interested in such conversions.  I currently own a
Fiat Spider 2000, and have seriously considered a Turbo 4 or a
6 cyl swap.  Having just replaced the rear-end in my Spider ($1k),
I am also interested in swapping the rear-end for something more
readily available.  (I would definitely want to keep disk 
brakes, and would be especially interested in one of the independent
rear-ends.)

The thought I have put into this so far has led me down the following
expensive (but fun to contemplate) path.

1.  If your going to swap the engine, put in something you 
can be proud of.  Maybe even a heavily doctored (turbo'd) Northstar
V8.  Build it to rev.

2.  That will generate lots of HP, but you'll have to turn the 
engine around (unless you want FWD or send this off on a 4WD 
tangent), and mate up a good standard tranny.  (The vette and
Z28 6 spd comes to mind.

3.  Now we have lots of torque and HP, we might as well put in
a vette independent rearend.

4.  We have also added lots of weight.  The Fiat front-end is
unlikely to provide good response.  Put the vette rack and pinion
front end in it.

5.  Lots of power, lots of front end weight, the unibody will never
survive, and if it did, it wouldn't be rigid enough.  Tube frame.

6.  Wide tires.  Fender flares are added that make the car look
muscle bound, Pininfarina turns over in his grave.

7.  Lose your license :-)

The more likely path would be an RX7 rotary and tranny, or the
300Z drive-train.  I have measured both of these and they would
fit with a fair amount of destruction/construction.


paul

----------
Posted by: emory!spider.mentorg.com!pstoaks (Paul Stoaks)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jun 26 23:39:42 1994
Subject: Re: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #245 (Jun
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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> Subject: '40 Ford 4D

>I just bought a '40 Ford and i'm looking for all kinds of parts for
>it. Primarily I need the interior trim molding for the winshield, but
>any leads on parts at all would be helpfull.

Tony,
You might try      Bob Drake Reproductions Inc.
                   1819 N.W. Washington Blvd
                   Grants Pass, Oregon  97526
                   800-221-3673   fax 503-474-0099
They handle the best repoduction parts for 32-48 Fords.
The last catalog I got had over 400 pages of trim,chrome,rubber,sheet metal,
and plastic parts. every thing I ever got from him was Top Of The Line.
Also pickup a Street Rod magazine their are alot of companies that cover old
Ford parts. Good Luck
                                                 Fred Kroll
             

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!FKROLL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 14:42:33 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> Almost all early aircraft engines were made up of welded steel
-> members. Check out the WW1 Bennz 6 cylinders, for instance, or any
-> number of post war V8s, V12s, etc.

 The only aircraft engines I've actually seen have been some Allison
V12s and some of the big radials, at that aircraft museum south of
Atlanta.  The radials' crankcases were supposed to have been forged
instead of cast.  At aircraft prices I guess they could afford it.


 Do you know of any particular aircraft engines that used the welded-up
construction?  Other than the Crosley, all I've seen have been
illustrations in some marine engine catalogs, big Sulzer crankcases and
stuff.  Big enough the welders had to stand on ladders *inside* the
crankcase.


-> I think it would be very interesting to build a modern type engine
-> this way Anyone with a big press??

 Considering the strength-to-weight ratio, I think it is an idea whose
time may have come around once again.
   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 14:49:33 1994
Subject: Exhaust Hp ratings?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> How does one go about determining the Horsepower potential of this
-> system. I need a system that will flow sufficiently for ~600Hp.

 If anyone knows, they're sure as hell keeping quiet about it.  None of
the books or papers on exhaust system design even remotely agree with
each other.  I wouldn't invest a whole lot of time worrying about the
subject.  Most of the headers you buy are going to be pretty similar to
each other anyway.
  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 14:56:35 1994
Subject: RE: Exhaust Hp ratings?
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>As it nears time to install my 473FE into my Cougar, I find myself contemplating
>the design of the exhaust system. I am going with an as yet undetermined brand
>of tube headers, hell who needs spark plug clearance anyways, right. :)
>Behind these headers I'll thinking 2.5" or 2.75" pipe. Interconnect these at
>the proper place with 1 maybe 2 crossovers, run them out the back to a pair of
>Supertrapps, 3" inlet and core. 

Rather than sending E-mail directly - I wanted to post this to get more 
comments.  This is kinda the result of a bench racing session - so this is 
untested!

For a high horsepower big block - 450 cu in or larger - with peak 
horsepower around 6000-6500 rpm.  Assuming 100% V.E. (we're bench racing 
right?) -That's about 850 cfm or air. That's 3723 lbs of air per hour.  That 
would require ( at 13.0:1 A/F ratio ) 286 lbs of fuel every hour.  That 
works out to about 572hp (.5 lbs of fuel per hp per hour at WOT.)  Now this 
part is a guess: Headers should be about 2.25" primaries and 2x" long 
( 26"? ).  This would feed into a 3.5" collector.  From here it goes to 3" 
SS steel exhaust system to Borla 3" inlet and 3" outlet racing mufflers.  (
looking at a catalog - I suspect these are glass packs - so in that case 
I'd go with the flow masters.  Mufflers would be placed as far back as 
possible in the chassis.  A single cross-over pipe would be used.  To 
determine its location - I would use the welder's grease pencil - that 
melts at say 450 deg - and mark the exhaust system.  The cross over would 
be place 1" beyond the point the grease pencil's mark doesn't melt.  The 
theory behind this ( I've read this somewhere) is you want to keep as much 
heat in the exhuast as possible to promote high velocity and the continual 
burn of fuel (smolder of fuel?) to add more heat - and again more velocity 
to the exhaust.  Smokey Yunick suggested in his book that an air pump that 
promotes burn in the exhaust may actually be a net gain in horsepower.

The ultimate goal of the exhaust system was to see how close you could get 
to the performance of an open pipe system.  Go to the track and don't even 
bother to disconnect the exhaust!  Not to mention the look of dual 3" pipes 
pointed back.  If the system was too loud - a glass pack with 3" in and 3" 
out could be added just before the pipes exited the car.  This is sort-of 
the arrangment Chrysler had on its Hemi cars - the extra glass packs were 
called resonators.

Pipe dream? (bad pun intended).  Does anyone have general rules of thumb 
when it comes to sizing headers - what about variations due to nitros / 
blowers (or turbo's).  Other than clearance problems can you go too big 
with exhast pipes?  Borla and Flow Master make 3.5" mufflers!

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 15:04:50 1994
Subject: ENGINE.FYI Part 1
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                 Engine Weight FYI    version 94.06.26
            by Dave Williams, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us

  It isn't really a Frequently Asked Question, so I'll call it an
"FYI", For Your Information.  This was originally a list I'd compiled
long ago on paper, then moved to the computer, then posted on the net
as a response to some questions.  It wound up being popular, but since
I didn't keep track of the origin of the data there was some debate as
to how accurate the list was.  This new improved list has origins
where I could find references; what doesn't have an origin is stuff
from my original list.

  You'll sometimes see more than one weight listed.  Some weights are
for just a long block, some are complete and ready to run, and of
course everything in between.  Some engines varied in weight during
their production runs - for example, some later Chevy V8s use thinwall
blocks and aluminum heads.

  If you have any figures you'd like to contribute, please send them to
me at one of the following addresses:
        dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
        Compuserve 72571,3542
        The Courts of Chaos BBS, (501)985-0059
        PO Box 181, Jacksonville AR 72078-0181

                       weight
     engine            pounds   ref.       comments

Alfasud flat-4          240     (2) (19) "complete"
Alfa Romeo SOHC V6      375     (2)
Alfa Romeo 415/85T      279     (31) F1 four, '87 season
AMC V8                  540         (late design V8s)
AMC V8                  600         (early design V8s)
AMC 6                   500         (early design six - 199)
Audi 2.0 L4             335     (2)
Audi 5                  364     (2) (non-turbo)
Audi 80 1300            230     (2)
Audi 100 1500           240     (2)
Austin C-series L6      562     (2) ('56 Austin-Healey 100-6)

BL "B" L4 OHV           335     (2)
BL "E" L6               345     (2)  ("complete")
BL "O" L4 OHC           298     (2)
BMW M52 3.3,3.5 Big Six 500     (2)
BMW M60 B 40 4.0 V8     468     (17)
BMW M60 Small Six       388     (2)
BMW slant-6 turbodiesel 430
BMW 4.5L V12            607     (2) (50) "Fully dressed" prototype
BMW 4.5L V12            974     (57) iron prototype
BMW M105 Diesel 6 2.5L  430     (4)
BMW 2.3 turbo Diesel    408     (21) iron block, alum head, "complete"
BMW 5.0 V12             529     (22) (57) "fully dressed"
BMW S14 four            350     (23) 318i motor
Buick 1953 322 V8       635     (51) OHV V8
Buick 350               450
Buick 401               685     (1) ('59 Nail Head)
Buick 430-455 V8        600         (one ref showed 640) (10 - 600)
Buick 1963 odd-fire V6  414     (2)
Buick V6                375
Buick 3.0 V6 '85-up     350
Buick/Rover 215 V8      318         (and Olds)
Buick 1961 215 V8       324     (2)

Cadillac V8 390         720     (1) ('59)
Cadillac V8 472-500     625
Cadillac V8 500         595     (10)
Cadillac V-16           1,300   (2) (1931)
Cadillac 331 V8         699     (2) (1949)
Callaway Indy HH-V8     277     (54) 2.6L Drake design
Chevy Corvair flat 6    300
Chevy Sprint 993cc L4   147     (55) 24L x 20W x 25H  (Suzuki mfr)
Chevy 1.8-2.0 L4        302     (4) (39) "J car" pushrod
Chevy Chevette 1.6 SOHC 300     (4) (39) (also Opel)
Chevy Vega L4           285
Chevy II 153 L4         350
Chevy L6 194-250        440
Chevy L6 292            ---
Chevy L6 216/235        630     (2)
Chevy V6-90 229, 4.3    425
Chevy V6-60 2.8, 3.1    350     (2)
Chevy small block V8    575         (generic for '60s-'70s motors)
Chevy small block V8    535     (1) ('59 Corvette 283 w/alum. intake)
Chevy V8 348/409        620     (1)
Chevy big block V8      685         Mark IV
Chevy big block V8      ---         Mark V
Chevy 454               675     (10)
Chevy 427 ZL-1          550     (35) all-aluminum, "20# lighter than SB"
Chrysler 2.2 L4         216     (6) (bare motor)
Chrysler 413 wedge      640     (1) ('59 300-E)
Chrysler 331 Hemi       745     (5) 1955
Citroen 2.0 Douvrin 4   263
Cosworth AC V8 ('93)    286     (23)  75 degree bank angle
Cosworth 75 deg V8      309     (52)  23.4L x 23.3W x 20.5H
Cosworth DFV V8         313     (23)  90 degree bank angle
Cosworth DFX V8         340     (29)
Cosworth XB V8          260     (29)
Crosley Cobra ('46-'48)  59     (25) (26)  less starter and generator

DeSoto 383              630     (1) ('59)
DeSoto V8               675     (5) (276-341 CID, '50s)
Detroit Diesel 6       2448     (37) (old design)
Detroit Diesel 6       1848     (37) (new Penske/Mercedes design)
Dodge V8                645     (5) (241-325 CID, '50s)
Dodge 361               625     (1) ('59)
Dodge Viper V10         716     (24) (30) with accessories
Dodge truck V10         816     (30) ("about 100 pounds heaver")
Dodge truck V10         836     (34) ("about 120 pounds heaver")

Edsel 361               680     (1) ('59)

Ferrari 312T            397     (2) (V12 3.0L racing engine)
Ferrari "250" V12       382     (2)
Ferrari V12            ~300     (23) 65 degree bank angle, 1992 F1
Ferrari 456 V12         517     (32) 65 degree, 5.5L
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    285     (2) (model 206)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    296     (2) (model 246)
Ford 1600 CVH           282     (49) (US Escort)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  418     (2) (also 2.0, 2.5)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  307     (18)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  450     (2) (turbo)
Ford 2.3 Polimotor      152     (12) plastic motor
Ford 2.3 Polimotor      168     (55) plastic motor
Ford Germany Taunus V4  205     (2) (and SAAB V4)
Ford England Essex V4   327
Ford Germany 2.0-2.8 V6 305
Ford England Essex V6   379     (2) (3 liter)
Ford 3.8 V6-90          351     (4) (w/start, alt, less clutch)
Ford 3.8 V6-90          311     (18) ("fully dressed")
Ford Duratec 2.5/3.0 V6 360     (45) ("fully dressed")
Ford CDW27 60 deg V6    365     (47) "as delivered to assembly plant"
Ford 170-250 L6         385         (except Australian w/aluminum head)
Ford flathead V8        525
Ford flathead V8        569     (1) ('53 239 CID)
Ford Cosworth DFV       353     (2) (racing engine, DOHC, 3.0L)
Ford 255 Windsor        468     (4)
Ford 289/302 V8         460         (late 5.0s are a bit lighter)
Ford 221-302W           460     (48)
Ford BOSS 302           500
Ford BOSS 302           500     (48)
Ford 351 Cleveland      550         (includes BOSS and Australian 302-C)
Ford 351 Cleveland      550     (48)
Ford 351 Windsor        510
Ford 351 Windsor        525     (48)
Ford 351M-400           575     (48)
Ford Y block V8         625         (272-312 CID)
Ford FE big block       650         (332-428 CID)
Ford FE big block       670     (1) ('59 352 CID)
Ford FE                 625     (48)
Ford 427 SOHC           680     (48)
Ford 429/460 V8         640
Ford 429-460            720     (48)
Ford 460 V8             720     (10)
Ford BOSS 429           680         (iron block, aluminum heads)
Ford BOSS 429           635     (48)

GM CDS-2 2-stroke       165     (42) Orbital patent, prototype
GM Rotary Engine        255     (13) cast iron, 1972 PR weight figure
GM Rotary Engine RC206  345     (14) aluminum, 1974 PR weight figure
GMC 261 L6 (216-235)    544     (43) "25 lbs lighter than flathead Ford"
Gurney-Weslake V12      370     (33) Eagle AAR, 60 degree

HKS F1 3.5 V12          363     (23) Formula One, 5 valve per cyl.
Honda RA122E 75 deg V12 330     (23) Formula One
Honda 3.5L 72 deg V10   331     (40, 52) 24.4L x 21.7W x 21.3H Formula 1
Honda 75deg V12         340     (41) 1993 Formula 1
Honda 24V V6            491     (55) Acura Legend motor

Ilmor 80deg V8          325     (29)
Ilmor 2175A 72deg V10   281     (59) 592.5mmL, 519mmW, 555mmH
Isuzu 1.8 Diesel L4     384     (4)
Isuzu 1.8 gas L4        311     (4)

Jaguar V12              680     (57)
Judd V10                286     (22) 72 degree bank angle, F1

Kawasaki H1R, H2R       120     (9)

Lamborghini/Chrysler    299     (8) (1992) V12 Formula 1 motor
Lincoln 430             740     (1) ('59) (also Mercury 430)
Lotus 907 (Esprit)      275     (3) (inc. alt. & starter, no clutch)

Marmon V-16             931     (2) (1931)
Mazda 10A rotary        224     (20) (Cosmo) (bare)
Mazda 10A rotary        268     (20) (R100) (bare)
Mazda 10A rotary        190     (27) (R100) (without thermal reactor)
Mazda 10A rotary        280     (27) (R100) (with thermal reactor)
Mazda 12A rotary        348     (20) (RX7) (with oil and water)
Mazda 12A rotary        356     (20) (Japanese model turbo, EFI)
Mazda 13A rotary        301     (20) (R130 Lucia - Japan only) (bare)
Mercedes SOHC V8 alum.  452     (2)
Mercedes SOHC V8 iron   540     (2)
Mercedes 5.6L V8        467     (57) 1987
Mercedes OM 615 Diesel  447     (16)
Mercedes 500I V8        305     (46) pushrod Turbo Indy motor (Penske)
Mercedes/Ilmor Indy V8  273     (57) 72 deg V Turbo Indy motor
Mercury Marine 2000     331     (14) 200hp, 2 stroke, 142 CID, w/foot
Mercury Marine 1750     350     (14) 275hp, 2 stroke, 122 CID, w/foot
Miller 91 (1926)        330     (44) predecessor to Offy four
Mopar Slant Six         475
Mopar 273-340 "A" V8    525
Mopar 360 "A"           550
Mopar 361-383-400 V8    620     (5)
Mopar 413-426W-440 V8   670     (5) (10)
Mopar Street Hemi       765         (690 bare)
Mugen V10               330     (23) 72 degree bank angle, F1

Nissan CA20 FWD         269     (4) belt cam
Nissan Z20 NAPS-Z 2.0   346     (4) RWD chain cam
                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 15:53:22 1994
Subject: Re: dist stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> I just did this last weekend, because the tach drive in the
-> distributor ate itself.  For a 69 `vette the distibutor shaft end
-> play is .002 - .007.

 Thanks!  I was going to guesstimate it at .015 if I couldn't find a
figure anywhere.


-> This information from Chevy '69 Service manual,
-> which doesn't distinguish between distributors for small block and
-> big-block.  My recollection is that there is no difference between
-> distributors for big vs small chevy.

 Right.  The small block and Mark IV, V big block distributors are the
same. I don't know about the 348/409.
                                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 16:21:36 1994
Subject: ENGINE.FYI Part 2
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Olds 215 V8             318         (same as Buick/Rover)
Olds 304 "Rocket" V8    671     (2) first Olds V8, 1949
Olds straight-8         614     (2) '40s motor
Olds 330 J2             700         (first generation V8)
Olds 330-400            560     (5) low deck, w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 394                725     (1) ('59)
Olds 371, 394           760     (5)
Olds 400-455            620     (5) high deck w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 455                605     (10)
Olds 262 V6 Diesel      590     (4) (from GM SAE paper)
Opel 2.8-3.0 CIH L6     395     (2)
Otto "Atmospheric"     2600     (56) 1hp, 15 feet tall, model of 1867

Peugeot 204 Diesel      272     (11) SOHC, 45hp
Peugeot Douvrin 2.0 4   263     (2)
Peugeot 104 1400        260     (2) includes transaxle
Peugeot Indenor XD-90   415     (16) Diesel, aluminum head and sump
Pierce-Arrow V-12       1,130   (2) (1932)
Plymouth 361            640     (1) ('59)
Polimotor DOHC 2.0 L4   150     (53)  mostly plastic, development motor
Pontiac L4              350         Iron Duke, Tech IV
Pontiac Tempest slant 4 470
Pontiac SOHC 6          450
Pontiac 389 V8          650
Pontiac 389 V8          590     (1) ('59)
Pontiac 301 V8          452
Porsche 4.7 SOHC V8     574
Porsche 4.7 SOHC V8     582     (57)
Porsche 901 6           401     (2) (1963)

Rambler 327 V8          600
Rambler 327 V8          670     (1) ('59)
Rover 3500 V8           318         (same as Buick)
Rover 3.0 SOHC L6       432     (2)
Rover 2000 four         312     (36) 1960s engine
Renault 2.0 4 Douvrin   263     (2)
Renault 2.8 V6          375     (2) (also DeLorean, Peugeot, Volvo)
Renault EF-1            395     (2) (racing version of P-R-V V6)
Renault V10             308     (23) 67 degree bank angle, F1
Renault V10             331     (52) 67 deg 26.3L x 21.7W x 17.3H
Rolls-Royce 6.5 Wankel  930     (51) tank engine

SAAB V4-60              206     (2) (also Taunus, Ford)
SAAB slant-4            290     (2) (also Triumph)
Studebaker 289          650
Subaru flat-12 F1       331     (52) 29.3L x 28.5W x 15.7H
Suzuki Cultus 3 cyl     139     (7) (38) (Geo Metro, Chevy Sprint)

Toyota 1G-EU 2.6 L6     340     (27) with oil and coolant (SOHC)
Toyota 4M Hemi L6       400     (27)
Triumph slant-4         290     (2) (also SAAB 99)
Triumph 2000 L6         403     (2) (Spitfire, 2.5 TRs)
Triumph Stag V8         446

VW flat-4 air cooled    200
Volvo 3.0 L6 DOHC       401     (56) all aluminum

Yamaha OX66 75 deg V6   230     (44) 16.5" long, 21.5" wide
Yamaha OX88 75 deg V8   320     (40, 52) Formula One, 3.5L, 22.0Lx22.4W

(1)  Handbook of Engine Swapping, John Thawley, 1960
(2)  Complete Handbook of Automotive Power Trains, Jan Norbye, 1981
(3)  Passenger Car Engines, papers, IMechE, 1975
(4)  New Light Duty Engines, SAE 510, 1982
(5)  Hot Rod Engines, Hot Rod, 1967
(6)  Aspects of Internal Combustion Engine Design, SAE 582, 1982
(7)  Popular Science, May 1984
(8)  Automotive Industries, June 1993
(9)  Cycle Magazine, Cook Neilson, "TDC" Feb 1990
(10) Street Rodder, Neal Muyleart, "Aluminum Manifold", Aug 1993
(11) Popular Science, March 1974
(12) Popular Science, September 1982
(13) Popular Science, May 1972
(14) Popular Science, April 1974
(15) Popular Science, December 1977
(16) Popular Science, November 1973
(17) Automotive Industries, July 1992
(18) Ford SVO V-6 Racing Engine Builder's Guide, 1992
(19) "Streamlining and Car Aerodynamics", Norbye, 1977
(20) "The New Mazda RX7 and Mazda Rotary Engine Sports Cars",
      Jack Yamaguchi, 1985
(21) Popular Science, April 1979
(22) Autotech, April 1988
(23) Racecar Engineering, V2 N6 1993
(24) Sports Car International, October 1992
(25) Road & Track, February 1994
(26) Collectible Automobile, January 1986
(27) Road & Track, December 1970
(28) Road & Track, August 1980
(29) Road & Track, February 1992
(30) Car and Driver, March 1992
(31) Superauto Illustrated, October 1986
(32) Sports Car International, January 1993
(33) Sports Car International, June 1992
(34) Automobile, November 1991
(35) Motor Trend, September 1993
(36) Road & Track, April 1980
(37) Road & Track, August 1993
(38) Car and Driver, January 1984
(39) Popular Mechanics, June 1981
(40) Road & Track, January 1989
(41) Road & Track, December 1993
(42) Motor Trans, August 1990
(43) Sports Car International, July 1990
(44) Road & Track May 1985
(45) Automotive Industries May 1994
(46) Machine Design May 23 1994
(47) Automotive Industries April 1994
(48) HR Ford High Perf 1985
(49) Road & Track May 1989
(50) Road & Track October 1979
(51) Motor Trend September 1972
(52) Road & Track June 1989
(53) Road & Track September 1984
(54) Motor Trend June 1985
(55) Motor Trend August 1984
(56) Motor Trend August 1987
(57) Road & Track July 1987
(58) Car Craft July 1994
(59) Racecar Engineering Summer 1991
                                                                                                                           

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 16:45:47 1994
Subject: Duckworth interview
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Car Design & Technology, Jan 1992 had an interview with Keith Duckworth,
the 'worth' part of Cosworth.  The interviewer asked a number of
questions about F1 engine development, and got answers which didn't make
a whole lot of sense.  Then Duckworth got off on F1 fuel blending and
things got even stranger.

 Formula 1's fuel rules call for a maximum Road Octane Number of 102,
no more than 2% oxygen, no more than 1% nitrogen, and no alcohols.  Now,
it has been known for 20 years or more that the RON rating doesn't have
a hell of a lot to do with actual anti-knock values.  That's why the US
gas pumps use RON + MON /2 for octane rating.  The actual RON test is a
low RPM, low-load test.  Toluene fares poorly in such testing, but it's
very resistant to detonation in actual racing engines.  The "rocket
fuel" used by most F1 teams in the mid'80s was mostly toluene.

 Cosworth apparently didn't do their homework on fuels, got their clocks
cleaned, and are bitter about it.  Duckworth's comments about fuel
blending indicate he knows even less than I do about chemistry.
Duckworth was very angry that things didn't always work the way the
reference books said they should, and accused the authors of various SAE
papers and doctoral theses of skewing their results.

 I was fairly surprised to see these sort of comments.  "By the book"
engineers are common now, but Duckworth is an old-timer - the first
Cosworth V8s came out in 1967.  He should have known better.  Even if he
didn't, holding a grudge for ten or twenty years is silly.  He'd never
make it around a NASCAR or IMSA team.  "Yes, this is our new strawberry
flavored coolant..."

 Quote:  "I think about 90% of the technical papers on car engines are
being produced by people who are primarily trying to establish that they
are in the forefront of technical progress.  If the contents were of
much technical value they would do better to keep them quiet rather than
publish them.  So I'm not sure that you can believe anything you read.
I have a whole collection of papers like this and I'm thinking of
starting a learned Journal of Irreproducible Results."

 Way to go, D00D.  If Duckworth has ever submitted any papers to the SAE
or IMechE I don't have a listing for them, so why should he expect
anyone else to bust their ass for his benefit?  "It's a secret" seems to
be a British thing, like guilds and lodges.  It's fine for wheelwrights
and bricklayers, but "it's a secret" in motorsport usually means "I
haven't the faintest goddamned idea what's going on and don't want to
admit it."   As for that Journal...  has Duckworth been in a coma the
last 20 years or so?
                                                                                                                             

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 16:54:39 1994
Subject: Re: '40 Ford 4D
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: I just bought a '40 Ford and i'm looking for all kinds of parts for
: it. Primarily I need the interior trim molding for the winshield, but
: any leads on parts at all would be helpfull.

call   Wayne    408-722-1934

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 18:51:49 1994
Subject: TYPE F IN TH350 ???
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I have a 1971 Cutlass and put a TCI shift kit in it's TH350 about a
month ago.  The directions said to refill the tranny w/ Type F or TCI
tranny fluid.  Not knowing if this was safe, I just filled it back up
with dex/merc.  IS THIS SAFE???  Following TCI's directions the tranny
fluid in the converter world be mixed w/ the Type F.  Is this Ok??
If this is Ok, does a TH350 w/Type F run hotter than normal(tranny cooler
needed?).
The car will about shear the U-Joints when it shifts already, but if
the point of putting Type F in there to make it shift even harder? :)
If not why in the hell do they tell you to put the stuff in there?

Please answer.

-John Martin CD--NSWC

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!martinjo (John Martin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 19:45:30 1994
Subject: Re: Duckworth interview
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Dave Williams quoted Duckworth saying:
>"I have a whole collection of papers like this and I'm thinking of
>starting a learned Journal of Irreproducible Results."

Duckworth blew it on this one too.  There is already a Journal of
Irreproducible Results which is regularly published.  I used to have a
subscription to it; it's a great mag because it's a spoof on the stuffy
academic papers that get published in the mainstream journals.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!tesla.is.brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jun 27 20:43:01 1994
Subject: Re: TYPE F IN TH350 ???
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The Hotrod List writes:
> I have a 1971 Cutlass and put a TCI shift kit in it's TH350 about a
> month ago.  The directions said to refill the tranny w/ Type F or TCI
> tranny fluid.  Not knowing if this was safe, I just filled it back up
> with dex/merc.  IS THIS SAFE???  Following TCI's directions the tranny
> fluid in the converter world be mixed w/ the Type F.  Is this Ok??

Type F and Dexron II are completely compatible on the chemical level if
thats what you are worried about.

> If this is Ok, does a TH350 w/Type F run hotter than normal(tranny cooler
> needed?).

Any car with an auto tranny that is used in a high-performance
application should have an external tranny cooler.

> The car will about shear the U-Joints when it shifts already, but if
> the point of putting Type F in there to make it shift even harder? :)
> If not why in the hell do they tell you to put the stuff in there?

Yep, type F is supposed to make it shift harder.  Personally, I wouldn't
use type F unless the bands/clutches were designed for it.
Also, using type-F is not a cure for an old tranny that shifts sloppily.
It will improve shifts slightly at first, but it will leave deposits on
the bands when they slip and accelerate the death of the tranny.  If you
can live with sloppy shifts and just need to get some more miles out of
a tranny, then switching to a dexron-II type synthetic will extend its
lifespan a bit.


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
    68 Camaro Convertible - 350 / TH350
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 01:25:54 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In alt.hotrod you write:


>-> Almost all early aircraft engines were made up of welded steel
>-> members. Check out the WW1 Bennz 6 cylinders, for instance, or any
>-> number of post war V8s, V12s, etc.

> The only aircraft engines I've actually seen have been some Allison
>V12s and some of the big radials, at that aircraft museum south of
>Atlanta.  The radials' crankcases were supposed to have been forged
>instead of cast.  At aircraft prices I guess they could afford it.
>

Pratt used cast Al crankcases on their earlier radials, moving up to
forged Al as the HP went up. Whright used forged steel on the 3350 etc.

> Do you know of any particular aircraft engines that used the welded-up
>construction?  Other than the Crosley, all I've seen have been
>illustrations in some marine engine catalogs, big Sulzer crankcases and
>stuff.  Big enough the welders had to stand on ladders *inside* the
>crankcase.

Well, the Liberty comes to mind from war1, all welded steel.  It hung
around until war2, when the brits *of course* were building it for
tanks.  Another example is the continental O-1430, also a V-1430 as the
arguments went around.  This was from the Hyper program, and they felt
that only forged steel would live at the 300 degree coolant temp.  they
wanted to use.  From war1, try a Benz 6cyl, OHC4 valve liquid cooled,
welded steel, 901 cubes,, 618 lbs.

>-> I think it would be very interesting to build a modern type engine
>-> this way Anyone with a big press??

> Considering the strength-to-weight ratio, I think it is an idea whose
>time may have come around once again.
>   

Years ago, in HotDog magazine, there was an article about a welder who
had built up a 4cyl.  flathead for his dragster.  Dont remember the
weights, but it was certainly different.  Tje Allison 1710 was a cast
aluminum crankcase with 2 removeable cylinder block and wet sleeves,
similar to the merlin.

I think that steel construction would be very interesting, and have
often thought about doing it.  Time/money.  Sound familiar?

If there is more interest, I can find more info. Its here somewhere :-)

Jim Davies

----------
Posted by: Jim Davies 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 11:47:36 1994
Subject: Olds Engine Identification Questions
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Hi all,

I have purchased another Olds 455 engine and I have a few questions
about it's origins that are a bit difficult to answer.

It came out of a 1969 Vista Cruiser Station Wagon.  The block has an X
stamping on it and it has an N series crank.  The heads on it are J
series.  Most interesting is the the pistons which are the 14cc type.  I
always thought that these came only in the W type 442 engines in 1969
(though I could be quite wrong).  The previous owner believes this was
the engine that came in the car.

Any idea on if this is an original engine combination or it's origins.
I never remember seeing J series heads with the 10.5:1 pistons.....  The
car had less than 40,000 miles on it so I doubt anything akin to a
rebuild would have been done (and all the parts appear equally aged and
all stock Olds).

Thanks again,

SJRD


----------
Posted by: emory!gigli.medicine.rochester.edu!sdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 11:53:07 1994
Subject: GM (Chevy or Olds) 350 in a 85 Ford Thunderbird
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Does anyone have anything they can share on putting either and Olds 350
or Chevy 350 in an 1983-1987 Ford Thunderbird?  I would like to put
either a Chevy 350 (easy to get and cheap to build) or an Olds 350
(since I have a few spares...:>) with the corresponding TH 350 into my
wifes Thunderbird.

While Ford makes nice vehicals and we like this body style a lot I am
not very familiar with the Ford systems and especially dislike their
finicky electronics (at least on the 1985 302s).  I seem to recall a set
of engine adapter mounts and possibly other kits made for this purpose.
It originally had a V-6 which died after 60,000 miles.  It was replaced
with it's present 302 which has been the bane of my automotive life.

Any ideas or comments would be most welcome.

Thanks,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: emory!gigli.medicine.rochester.edu!sdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 11:58:37 1994
Subject: Re: Duckworth interview
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-> Duckworth blew it on this one too.  There is already a Journal of
-> Irreproducible Results which is regularly published.

 Right.  That's one reason why I wondered if Duckworth was suffering
from massive recto-cranial inversion, or just doing the Brit version of
the old shuck and jive.
                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 17:23:32 1994
Subject: RE: TYPE F IN TH350 ???
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>I have a 1971 Cutlass and put a TCI shift kit in it's TH350 about a
>month ago.  The directions said to refill the tranny w/ Type F or TCI
>tranny fluid.  Not knowing if this was safe, I just filled it back up
>with dex/merc.  IS THIS SAFE???  Following TCI's directions the tranny
>fluid in the converter world be mixed w/ the Type F.  Is this Ok??
>If this is Ok, does a TH350 w/Type F run hotter than normal(tranny cooler
>needed?).

O.K. let me preface this by saying I have always used Dexetron II or the GM 
style tranny fluid.  While in high school, discussing with the auto-
mechanics teacher ( a hot rodder ).  He mentioned a trick to make 
transmissions shift harder was to fill it with Ford ATF or type F.  He said 
the old Ford trannies expected the bands to slip - as opposed to the fluid 
causing the slip.  So by his theory the type F fluid has a higher 
coefficient of friction.  
It is my understanding that the bands and or seals in the transmission 
are probably not compatable with Ford or type F tranny fluid.  Even older 
Ford transmissions that have been rebuilt use the Dexetron II (at least in 
some cases).
As far as racing tranny fluid goes.  I ran B&M trick shift fluid with a B&M 
shift improver kit on a TH400.  Ran O.K. but - In cold whether (I mean 
10 def F and below) the trans was so cold it could not be driven - lots of 
slippage untill heat got into the trans.  I don't know exactly what was in 
the fluid but it was colored blue (was this type F ? ).  In any case after 
going with a Mr. Gasket Trick Shift (or whatever its called) shift kit I 
refilled with normal tranny fluid (actually cheap generic stuff - bought by 
the gallon) and had no complaints.

>The car will about shear the U-Joints when it shifts already, but if
>the point of putting Type F in there to make it shift even harder? :)
>If not why in the hell do they tell you to put the stuff in there?

Actually I sheared the spider gears in the 10 bolt open rear on a high rpm 
1-2 shift.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 17:29:21 1994
Subject: Re: engines
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-> I think that steel construction would be very interesting, and have
-> often thought about doing it.  Time/money.  Sound familiar?
->
-> If there is more interest, I can find more info. Its here somewhere

 Dig!  Dig!  I don't have that kind of stuff on hand, but it sure looks
interesting...
                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 19:15:57 1994
Subject: Valve Comparision Question
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Hi Again,

A subject that has been nagging me lately has been the worth of using
aftermarket valves vs.  OEM when rebuilding heads.  Is there any data
that tells how much gain (in what ever measure) achieved by using for
examples Manly or Miloden (sp?) Stainless Steel Valves?  I would assume
the wear is better with the aftermarket, but for the price ($3.50 vs.
$11.50 / valve) is it worth it.

Thanks once again,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: emory!gigli.medicine.rochester.edu!sdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 19:21:04 1994
Subject: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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 Still no great luck with funding iso-propane.  John DeArmond could once
find it in Atlanta, but all of a sudden nobody carried it any more.  I
went through a couple of megs of captures on the subject from
wreck.autos.tech and found a couple of sources:  Campmor and REI.

 Campmor (1-800-526-4784) has iso-butane, but they will no longer ship
by mail.  They claim de gummit has classified iso-butane as hazardous.
Their only retail store is in Paramus NJ.

 REI (1-800-426-4840) used to carry iso-butane, but they no longer stock
it.

 I've found some industrial suppliers, but they will only sell
industrial quantities.  I don't need $250 worth of iso-butane!
                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 22:40:07 1994
Subject: Holley jet sizes
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I have a Holley 750 double pumper (4779) on my '69 Vette 350 and wanted to get
an idea what jet sizes other people are running so I can see if I'm in the 
ballpark.  The plugs look slightly lean.  I'm presently running 64 in the
primaries and 68 in the secondaries.  I just bought this carb last fall and
I also think the power valves are rated too high.  I have 8 inHg at idle and I
think the power valves that came with the carb are rated at 7.5 inHg, can
anyone verify this (obviously I haven't removed the power valves yet).

The car runs great and has quite a bit of power above 3000 and I don't think
this is due to the cam either.  Any suggestions or info greatly appreciated.
Here's roughly my set-up:

Holley 4779 750cfm
Edelbrock performer
1/2" phenolic spacer
64 cc 2.02 heads (about 10.4:1 CR with the TRW forged flattops)
Competition Cams 280 hydraulic w/Competition Cams lifters
Hooker Super Competition header/sidepipe combo (unfortunately this set-up
	only comes with 2"primaries)

				Thanks
				Joe Kelly
				Rutgers University


----------
Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 22:47:25 1994
Subject: GM (Chevy or Olds) 350 in a 85 Ford Thunderbird
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-> Does anyone have anything they can share on putting either and Olds
-> 350 or Chevy 350 in an 1983-1987 Ford Thunderbird?

 I put an Olds 350 into a '68 Ford pickup.  It was the simplest swap I
ever did.

 For the T-bird, there ought to be plenty of elbow room for the Olds,
the rear-sump pan should fit, etc.  You'll have to watch for firewall
clearance depending on which exhaust manifolds you use.  Keep the water
temp and oil pressure senders from the Ford - if you just have a light,
the Olds oil switch will work, otherwise you'll need some pipe fittings.
Starter and alternator wiring should be relatively straightforward
depending on which type of alternator you use.

 The only potential trouble you may have is engine height.  The T-bird's
hood isn't very high.  If the carb doesn't clear you'll have to decide
what kind of hood scoop or blister would look best.

 The Olds engine and a T350, together, will be 150-200 pounds heavier
than a 302/C4, depending on whose figures you use.  The car may sit an
inch or two lower in front, no big deal.  If it rides too low you could
probably pick up some stiff Mustang springs from the track-noids on the
mustang mailing list.

 The driveshaft will have to be cut.  We actually found one the correct
length for the pickup, laying in a truck bed full of old driveshafts.
Ford and GM use the same size "small" U-joint (C4/T350) so if you can
scrounge a shaft the right length, all you have to do is change the
yoke.

 The Ford C4 shifter and T350 detents match up just fine - about the
same number of degrees of travel from gear to gear.  You may have to
lengthen/shorten the shift lever on the transmission to get everything
to work right.

 The 302 radiator should cool the 350 OK.  You can get electric booster
fans or larger radiators, but try the 302 radiator alone first.

 If the T-bird has the regular metal power steering pump, it may bolt up
to the Olds power steering bracket.  Used to, almost all Detroit and
most Japanese pumps were similar, but they started getting inventive in
the early '80s.  If the pump won't fit, any hydraulic shop can make you
hoses with Ford on one end and GM on the other.  There are differences
in pressure and volume from pump to pump, but in practice they're pretty
well interchangeable.

 We didn't have a welder when we did the Olds pickup, so we blocked the
engine in place with 2x4s, cinched it down with turnbuckles, and drove
it down to the welding shop and had the brackets made.  Use the Olds
rubber isolators.  Don't get too worked up over how to do the actual
brackets if you're going to have a shop do it - the weldor will probably
decide to do something different anyway.  You don't really care as long
as they'll guarantee it to stay, or fix it for free.

 The T-bird uses a throttle cable.  The Olds may or may not, depending
on what the carb came off of.  You can buy universal throttle balls.
Measure how far the Ford ball was from the throttle shaft and about what
angle, then drill a hole and mount the new one on the Rochester.  You'll
have to look to decide what to do with the cable bracket.

 Air conditioning:  the Olds probably has either the long or short GM
compressor.  The Ford will have either the York or Tecumseh piston
compressors, or maybe the little Sanyo/Sanden unit that looks like an
alternator.  Your best bet would be to use the Olds brackets and
compressor and adapt the air conditioner hoses.  It will probably work
OK - you can get away with a lot with air conditioning stuff.  You may
wind up with no superheat switch or two of them, or something like that,
but it won't be critical.

 The truck originally had a four speed; the T350 bolted right up to the
Ford crossmember.  If you're not so lucky, the crossmember can be
modified easily enough.

 We had to use a BFH to "adjust" a body seam in the transmission tunnel
to clear the T350.  No problem.

 The only critical thing is to watch the angles of the engine, rear end,
and driveshaft.  The rear tilts up a couple of degrees, the engine tilts
down a couple of degrees.  Doesn't matter how much, as long as they
match.  Sears sells an angle level for $15 or so.  Level to the timing
cover or balancer, not the carb base - the intake is cut to angle the
carb a few degrees forward.  You should have plenty of room to angle the
Olds any way you please, but for tight installations sometimes you put
the engine where you have to and then adjust the rear end to match.
It's not that big a deal, but if you're off much it'll cause the
damnedest vibrations you ever felt.

 You probably won't come across many swaps more straightforward than
this.


 Dare to be different - use the Olds engine instead of the Chevy!
                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 22:54:53 1994
Subject: Ford 360/390 and FE Series Questions...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I was wondering if some of you out there could tell me if the 360/390
Ford blocks are indeed related.

Also if anyone knows about the relationships of the 427-428-429 and
460 Fords.
 
Thanks.

J

----------
Posted by: emory!aol.com!jfeige (JFeige)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jun 28 23:00:28 1994
Subject: '93 Mustang 5.0 Ring and Pinion Swap.
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Does anyone know of difficulties and/or tips on swapping the rear
gears in my '93 Mustang GT?  (It's a 5-speed).
 
Thanks.

J

----------
Posted by: emory!aol.com!jfeige (JFeige)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 04:56:20 1994
Subject: Halon, Eco-insanity and NewSpeak 
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Just got an unsolicited copy of TrueSport's catalog.  They sell racing
goodies primarily aimed at the string-backed glove crowd :-)  Pretty 
interesting catalog, I guess, if your idea of a bargain is paying $5 ea
for Champion spark plugs.

Something very interesting in their fire protection section.  A two page
spread is dedicated to the FlameCrusher FM-100 advanced fire supression
system.  FM-100 is the long rumored EPA-approved Halon replacement fire
supression agent.  I had been wondering for quite some time what manner
of chemical could replace halon.  Now I have the answer.  There isn't
one.  FM-100 is bromodifluoromethane!  They simply NewSpeak-ed another
halon!  If I recall how to construct the number, this would be
Halon-1201.  Halon-1301, the common supression agent that, according to
the econazis, would destroy all the ozone in the known universe, is
bromotrifluoromethane.  So now we know that the new-fangled Halon
replacement that has been rumored for months really is just another
Halon that has somehow been wedged around the EPA rules.

This stuff sure is expensive.  A 7 lb system is $436 and a refill is $184!!
Hmmmm.  This smells just like the R-12/R-142a debacle where the government
conveniently bans a molecule whose patent has expired in favor of one with
a shiny new one.  Hmmmm.  The ad brags that FM-100 is made by the Great
Lakes Chemical Company who also makes Halon.  Hmmmmmm.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
Clinton at Normandy for D-day is worse than Hitler presiding over the 
Holocaust Museum.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 11:41:25 1994
Subject: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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> Campmor (1-800-526-4784) has iso-butane, but they will no longer ship
>by mail.  They claim de gummit has classified iso-butane as hazardous.

  I'd be very curious to know what statute classifies isobutane as
hazardous, if for no other reason than I distrust retail vendors.
Will the USPS or any commercial carrier ship _any_ 'hazardous' material?

> REI (1-800-426-4840) used to carry iso-butane, but they no longer stock
>it.

  Hmmmm, this is depressing (can you tell I'm not really interested in
camp fuel? ;) .

> I've found some industrial suppliers, but they will only sell
>industrial quantities.  I don't need $250 worth of iso-butane!

  At that price, seems to me you'd be better off buying a 30# cylinder
of R-12, which is still available but awfully pricey (~$250?).

  Do you think there's any way to homebrew George Goble's GHG-12
'tertiary' blend, sans isobutane?  According to my handy copy
of PE #1 (soon to be a collector's item, folks! ;), that blend
is (% by weight):  55% HCFC-22, 37% HCFC-142b, and 8% R-600a (isobutane).
It's not clear from George's article what role the isobutane
plays in the mixture.  Is he on the list?

  The bigger question is:  with millions of R-12 systems on the road
today, what is going to affect the market for R-134a retrofits?  (I
don't want to discuss the shortcomings of R-134a; it looks like that's
legal reality for the time being, less cooling capacity or not.)
What R-12 system components must be changed?  I assume all seals
must be changed, which is a pain in the ass for sure, but not too
expensive.  What about hoses, compressor valve spring rates, dessicant?

  In 5 years, once everybody's R-12 systems have crapped out and people
are getting sick of being fleeced by the HVAC service industry, will
we be able to walk into AutoZone and convert our AC to R-134a for a
reasonable price?

  Ron "Stockpiling, But Paranoid" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 11:47:45 1994
Subject: Re:  Ford 360/390 and FE Series Questions...
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   The Ford truck 360 block is effectively identical to the 390 same
 bore and all..   360 b = 4.050 s = 3.500  390 b = 4.050 s = 3.786.
 
 The Ford 427 is in the FE class.  In other words the "same block"
 as the 360/390.  The 427 has many differences.  The 428 is also in
 this class.  CID's in FE class 332, 352, 360, 361, 390, 391, 410,
 427, 428.

   The 429/460 are in the same class ( Ford calls them 385 series )
 with ( I think ) the major difference being the stroke.

   Bell housings will NOT interchange between these two classes.

   Bell housings from either the 351M/400 ( 335 series ) will bolt 
 to the 429/460.

Bill

All mine and noone else's...

----------
Posted by: emory!genrad.com!wdp (William D. Poudrier)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 11:53:57 1994
Subject: Engine swaps - engine angle
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In a previous post regarding Olds 350 in a T-bird, Dave Williams wrote:

> The only critical thing is to watch the angles of the engine, rear end,
>and driveshaft.  The rear tilts up a couple of degrees, the engine tilts
>down a couple of degrees.  Doesn't matter how much, as long as they
>match.  Sears sells an angle level for $15 or so.  Level to the timing
>cover or balancer, not the carb base - the intake is cut to angle the
>carb a few degrees forward.  You should have plenty of room to angle the
>Olds any way you please, but for tight installations sometimes you put
>the engine where you have to and then adjust the rear end to match.
>It's not that big a deal, but if you're off much it'll cause the
>damnedest vibrations you ever felt.

Is there any particular angle that the engine/trans should be set at?  Should 
they be parallel to the frame, level with the ground, or does it really matter?
(within reason)   It's true that the engine/trans drive axis and rearend drive 
axis should be parallel.   You would also think that the closer these axis are
(ie the closer the driveSHAFT is to being parallel with eng/trans/diff), the 
less power loss/stress occurs in u-joints. 

Also, I have noticed that the carb mounting base is angled slightly 
forward, as was mentioned.  Is there any particular reason for this?  Obviously 
you don't want the carb at too severe an angle.  So should the combination of
engine and all other angles result in the carb being angled slightly forward
when the car is sitting on level ground?  

So many questions......    

----------
Posted by: "MATT BOSSARD , 1-2508, PGR#1541, MS D1-50" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 15:18:13 1994
Subject: RE: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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  OK, I'm sure I have it writen down somewhere... but, what is the correct mix
of propane and isobutaine?  How do you use the stuff?  Can I use propane torch
gas?  How well does it work?  Do I need to change oil?

Easer question:  I'm willing to look around at camping stores for you guys for
isobutaine, but what should I ask for?  Camp stove fuel?  What should it say on
the can?  I'll be in NewZealand a few times this year and they are big into
camping too.  I'll check out some stores over there if someone can give me
pointers on what to ask for.
- Steven Ciciora

----------
Posted by: "Ciciora Steve" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 17:04:07 1994
Subject: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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> What R-12 system components must be changed?  I assume all seals
> must be changed, which is a pain in the ass for sure, but not too
> expensive.  What about hoses, compressor valve spring rates, dessicant?

According to Tim Remus and Jack Chisenhall, authors of "How to Air
Condition your Car"...

R-134a compressors will indeed use different seals, along with a
synthetic PAG lubricant. Current "tube and fin" style condensers
will need to upgraded for greater heat transfer capacity... they
see more use of serpentine and manifolded multi-tube designs. The
PAG oils are more prone to absorb moisture, so the new systems use
about three times as much dessicant. And the dessicant is also
different, although they don't specify what it actually is. Expansion
valves must use different seals, and must be calibrated to the new
operating characteristics of R-134a. Apart from different fittings, 
the evaporator remains unchanged. Service fittings are changing to 
eliminate the chance of cross-charging or using the wrong components
with the wrong type system. Some system fittings are changing as well.
Flare fittings will be replaced by O-ring fittings to reduce leakage.
Flexible hoses will need to be nylon-lined, and the rubber is a 
different compound as well. New hoses will be labeled:
SPEC SAE J51 AII AC HOSE. 

  Doesn't sound to me like you'll be able to but a "retro-fit" kit
anytime soon.

  Dave
[ (Gad, I never thought I'd ever find myself saying something positive
about 134a.)  Some of that is a bit of an exageration.  The vapor 
pressure curve of 134a is close enough to R-12 that the present expansion
valve works OK.  One can tune the superheat by means of the adjusting nut
inside the liquid inlet if one desires but that's not necessary.  The
existing consdenser and evaporator can be retains IFF they contain no
elastomers.  Adding a larger condenser is simply an attempt to recover
some of the cooling capacity that goes away with 134a.  Most domestic
A/Cs have enough reserve capacity that this won't be necessary.  PAG oil
is highly sensitive to moisture but the overriding issue is traces of 
halogens left from the inevitable decomposition of R-12.  Some researchers
report that as little as one PPM chlorides will cause PAG failure within
6 months.  This means that everything that is permeable or absorbant must
be changed.  That means all hoses, O-rings, seals and gaskets.  And
effectively it means a new compressor.  Many of us are already familiar
with PAG and don't realize it.  Most DOT-3 brake fluid is PAG-based.
For sure, AP Racing brake fluid is cuz it says so on the bottle.  We all
know just how crappy a lubricant brake fluid is and we know how sensitive
to moisture it is.

Two developments could alter this equation.  One is Castrol's non-PAG
lubricant and the other is Cryro-Chem's Cryrosilane sealing kit.
Castrol claims this new oil is R-12 compatable and will enable 
a "plug'n'chug" retrofit of 134a.  I've seen enough wild claims 
in this context to say "show me".  Cryrosilane is a kit made to be
injected into A/C systems to seal porosities and small leaks.  It is
a water-catalyzed silane monomer that polymerized into essentially 
silicone rubber.  This is the system used in George Goble's self-
sealing R-406a refrigerant and is well proven.  A kit costs about
$80.  Last time I checked, Cryro-Chem was testing the kit for 
compatability with 134a chemistry.  Assuming it is, this will completely
solve the need to make old systems hermetic without having to change 
the hoses and fittings.

There is an alternative that is suitable for kitting.  George Goble has
been advocating using regular mineral oil with 134a and installing oil
traps to capture the oil mist from the compressor exhaust and return it
to the crank case.  That way, oil miscibility becomes irrelevant because
the oil never leaves the compressor.  Oil separators are approx $80 off-the
shelf items already in common use with large systems that use refrigerants
like R-22 that are poor oil solvents.  As soon as I get the time, I'm going
to try this modification with one of my cars and see what happens.  If
this works, converting to 134a will become a simple matter of 
removing the R-12, installing the oil trap and charging with 134a.

The issue of SAE compatable fittings is easily handled by the home 
mechanic by either purchasing or making adaptors.  Not EPA-kosher but
then we don't really care too much about that, do we? :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!amp.com!dave.miller (Dave Miller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 17:11:36 1994
Subject: Pipe
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Anyone have some scrap 5" dia. schedule 40 PVC pipe or know where I can get a 
small quantity cheap.  I only need a piece about 6" long.  

The local plastic's place will only sell 10' at $6 per foot.

I am making a snorkle so that the throttle-body will be intaking air from a 
filter mounted on top of the hood.  A velocity stack is too wide at the top for 
me to use.

Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.

Later

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 19:47:08 1994
Subject: Re: Pipe
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> Bob, Why do you want to use PVC plastic?  1) its flammable 2) Melts if 
> exposed to moderate amounts of heat.  Use a piece of aluminum rolled and 
riveted at an overlap.

Good idea, I didn't think of doing this.  I have some stainless steel shim stock
that would probably work.

Later



Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 19:52:13 1994
Subject: Halon, Eco-insanity and NewSpeak
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>Something very interesting in their fire protection section.  A two page
>spread is dedicated to the FlameCrusher FM-100 advanced fire supression
>system.  FM-100 is the long rumored EPA-approved Halon replacement fire
>supression agent.  I had been wondering for quite some time what manner
>of chemical could replace halon.  Now I have the answer.  There isn't
>one.  FM-100 is bromodifluoromethane!  They simply NewSpeak-ed another
>halon!  If I recall how to construct the number, this would be
>Halon-1201.  Halon-1301, the common supression agent that, according to
>the econazis, would destroy all the ozone in the known universe, is
>bromotrifluoromethane.  So now we know that the new-fangled Halon
>replacement that has been rumored for months really is just another
>Halon that has somehow been wedged around the EPA rules.

Well, close. Bromodifluoromethane contains a hydrogen (C Br F2 H) which
bromotrifluoromethane (C Br F3) doesn't.  This hydrogen makes the molecule
more reactive, enough so that it can be broken down in the lower atmosphere
before reaching the ozone layer.  In the Freon world, this is why CFC's
were replaced with HCFC's (chlorofluorocarbons with
hydrochlorofluorocarbons) like R-134.

>This stuff sure is expensive.  A 7 lb system is $436 and a refill is $184!!
>Hmmmm.  This smells just like the R-12/R-142a debacle where the government
>conveniently bans a molecule whose patent has expired in favor of one with
>a shiny new one.

I thought that R-12 had been in use for decades, long enough for any
patents to have expired by now.

[That's what I said. R-12 = public domain = banned; R-134a = patented =
blessed by the EPA gods themselves.  JGD]

>Hmmmm.  The ad brags that FM-100 is made by the Great
>Lakes Chemical Company who also makes Halon.  Hmmmmmm.

Gee, I guess I'm not surprised that a company that is already manufacturing
a similar molecule might be able to bring a new product to market first.
The real questions are who controls what patents (will we see competition
in the field) and how effective this is compared to Halon-1301 (will it
cost lives that might have been saved).

Carl Ijames     ijames@helix.nih.gov



----------
Posted by: emory!helix.nih.gov!ijames (Carl F. Ijames)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 19:57:54 1994
Subject: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>this works, converting to 134a will become a simple matter of 
>removing the R-12, installing the oil trap and charging with 134a.

  Boy, that would be great.  I can buy a big old 30# cylinder of R134a
for a not-utterly-insane ~$135 (jeez, I can remember when 30# of R12
cost $90  ).

  Please keep the list posted on new developments, JGD.

  Even assuming the ozone scare is completely legit, the way this
is being handled by our public policy cretins is really burning my
ass.  No sense preaching to the choir, I guess.

> Not EPA-kosher but
>then we don't really care too much about that, do we?

  There are times when I consider some forms of civil disobedience
a badge of honor.

  Ron "Grrrr" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 20:03:27 1994
Subject: Re: Duckworth interview
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> Dave Williams quoted Duckworth saying:
> >"I have a whole collection of papers like this and I'm thinking of
> >starting a learned Journal of Irreproducible Results."
> Duckworth blew it on this one too.  There is already a Journal of
> Irreproducible Results which is regularly published.  I used to have a
> subscription to it; it's a great mag because it's a spoof on the stuffy
> academic papers that get published in the mainstream journals.

There may still be a JIR, but the regularly published publication, which
has no relation to the JIR except that all the staff has jumped ship and
joined the new publication, is the AIR: Annals of Improbably Research.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 23:39:54 1994
Subject: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> Hmmmm, this is depressing (can you tell I'm not really interested in
-> camp fuel? ;) .

 Yes, but I'm certain you're not planning anything ILLEGAL, right Ron?



-> In 5 years, once everybody's R-12 systems have crapped out and people

 I finally gave up, got mad, and called my buddy Tommy to go do lunch.
Tommy has a MACS card, so we stopped by the local parts emporium to
pick up a couple of cans of R12.  I thought he'd just flash the card and
pay.  Wrong.  The clerk hauled out this huge (like 3" thick) stack of
computer printout and verified his card number and name against some
sort of list.  Big Brother is watching *very* closely...
                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jun 29 23:44:39 1994
Subject: Engine swaps - engine angle
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-> Is there any particular angle that the engine/trans should be set at?
-> Should they be parallel to the frame, level with the ground, or does
-> it really matter? (within reason)

 Doesn't really matter.  If possible, you should set the Olds at the
same angle the Ford used.


->  It's true that the engine/trans
-> drive axis and rearend drive axis should be parallel.   You would
-> also think that the closer these axis are (ie the closer the
-> driveSHAFT is to being parallel with eng/trans/diff), the less power
-> loss/stress occurs in u-joints.

 Yes, but you have to have *some* angularity - a degree or so - or the
U-joints won't be properly lubricated, according to most sources.  I've
wondered if just greasing them regularly would be enough.


-> Also, I have noticed that the carb mounting base is angled slightly
-> forward, as was mentioned.  Is there any particular reason for this?
-> Obviously you don't want the carb at too severe an angle.  So should
-> the combination of engine and all other angles result in the carb
-> being angled slightly forward when the car is sitting on level
-> ground?

 The carb can be horizontal to slightly forward.  All Ford and GM
intakes use the same mounting angle across all car and truck lines,
though marine engines are usually different.  Again, as long as the carb
is within two or three degrees of level, you're OK.


-> So many questions......

 ASCII and ye shall receive...
                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 03:13:24 1994
Subject: Re: Halon, Eco-insanity and NewSpeak
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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John De Armond writes:
>	  FM-100 is the long rumored EPA-approved Halon replacement fire
>supression agent.  I had been wondering for quite some time what manner
>of chemical could replace halon.  Now I have the answer.  There isn't
>one.  FM-100 is bromodifluoromethane!  They simply NewSpeak-ed another
>halon!  If I recall how to construct the number, this would be
>Halon-1201.  Halon-1301, the common supression agent that, according to
>the econazis, would destroy all the ozone in the known universe, is
>bromotrifluoromethane.  So now we know that the new-fangled Halon
>replacement that has been rumored for months really is just another
>Halon that has somehow been wedged around the EPA rules.

Hmm.  The extinguisher out in the hall here uses Halon 1211.  Which, it
further states, is bromochlorodifluoromethane.  I don't suppose there's
too much difference between it and 1301.

My guess is that the rationale behind the new Halon is that it contains
a hydrogen atom, and thus it decays somewhat in the lower atmosphere
before reaching high altitudes.  That seems to be the standard theory,
at least it's what's in the "Ozone FAQ" posted to news.answers.
Speaking of which, I can't find much wrong with that FAQ.  But then I
know damn little about chemistry...


--
Norman Yarvin						yarvin@cs.yale.edu
 "I must confess.  I wish I was as good as my predecessor.  I know
  I had some problems." -- George Bush

----------
Posted by: emory!CS.YALE.EDU!yarvin (Norman Yarvin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 06:57:32 1994
Subject: RE: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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-> OK, I'm sure I have it writen down somewhere... but, what is the
-> correct mix of propane and isobutaine?

 It's in the general vicinity of 78% propane 22% iso-butane.  I'd have
to look up the exact proportion.  George Goble says it's not completely
critical, but closer is better.


->  How do you use the stuff?

 It's supposed to be a drop-in replacement.


-> Can I use propane gas?

 Plain old propane (George calls it "hamburger gas") will work, BUT:
around here, anyway, when you have a propane bottle refilled, you might
get 100% propane, 100% butane, or any crazy mixture of anything gaseous
the place has on hand.  I'd recommend paying a little extra for propane
torch or camping fuel with an MSDS sheet that says "propane."  You only
need part of one small bottle, after all.


->  How well does it work?

 It's *supposed* to work just fine.  That's the idea of a drop-in
replacement.


->  Do I need to change oil?

 No.  Again, another advantage of a drop-in.


-> Easer question:  I'm willing to look around at camping stores for you
-> guys for isobutaine, but what should I ask for?  Camp stove fuel?
-> What should it say on the can?

 There are three types of camping fuel - propane, n-butane, and
iso-butane.  I spent quite a bit of time calling places, carefully
asking for iso-butane, being told it was in stock, and being offered
propane when I got there.  I offered to introduce one clerk's face to
the wall after the fourth or fifth time.  If you can actually find
butane, the most common is n-butane.  What you want is iso-butane, which
is sometimes sold as "high altitude" camping fuel.  The difference
between n-butane and iso-butane (as far as refrigeration is concerned)
is that the iso-butane has a lower... uh, boiling point, I think it was.

 I have a ton of data on this stuff and would be happy to write a short
FAQ on it, except I want to actually DO it first, but I'm having a hell
of a time finding any iso-butane.


 BTW, does anyone know of a convenient source for buying those oddball
not-quite-Schrader-valve AC fittings?  I managed to scam one off a junk
car.
                                                                                                               

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 07:03:24 1994
Subject: Re: engines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In alt.hotrod you write:


>-> I think that steel construction would be very interesting, and have
>-> often thought about doing it.  Time/money.  Sound familiar?
>->
>-> If there is more interest, I can find more info. Its here somewhere

> Dig!  Dig!  I don't have that kind of stuff on hand, but it sure looks
>interesting...
>                           
OK, stay tuned. You wouldnt beleive the mess :)

JD




----------
Posted by: Jim Davies 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 11:39:42 1994
Subject: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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-> report that as little as one PPM chlorides will cause PAG failure
-> within 6 months.  This means that everything that is permeable or
-> absorbant must be changed.  That means all hoses, O-rings, seals and
-> gaskets.  And effectively it means a new compressor.

 My friend Tommy has a '63 Impala SS.  The AC has been open for a while,
and it's all original anyway.  He's prepared to change out all the old
31-year-old rubber hoses, put in a new drier, etc., since the system is
so old.

 I've been at him to change the system over to R-134a.  It shouldn't be
too hard to flush the evaporator with alcohol and dry air.  (neither of
us wants to do an evaporator-ectomy!)  The condensor is right up front,
comes out in just a few minutes.  It's also typically huge, so I feel it
should work OK with 134, which needs a little more condensor than R12.
That leaves the compressor, which appears to be OK.

 Is it possible to flush a compressor?  We'd need a solvent that
wouldn't eat the seals.  Tommy used to be an AC specialist at a local
Chevy dealer a few years ago.  If there was any question about
something, they just swapped it for a new one.    We'd like to
avoid buying a new compressor if we can.

 The reason I'm pushing him to change over is, A) he's already 3/4 of
the way there just from what he has to change anyway, and B) the 134
will be relatively inexpensive and available compared to the hassle of
R12, which will only get worse in the future.
 
[If he uses that new castrol oil, should be no problems.  The problem
with PAG is the bulk of the seals and O-rings hold enough chloride
residue to damage the "oil" when it leaches out over time.  Don't know
of any solvent that could reach into the polymer and get it out.

Re: flushing.  George Goble has been experimenting with using pentane
as a flush substitute for R-11.  Says it works well if you don't smoke :-)
I've flushed a couple of systems using propane.  Simply pipe in a propane
tank, turn it upside down and purge through a valve at the other end
of the system.  The liquid propane flows through the system and 
doesn't flash to vapor until it reaches the purge valve.  All kinds of
pyro possibilities here too :-)  JGD]


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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 11:46:06 1994
Subject: Pipe
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-> Anyone have some scrap 5" dia. schedule 40 PVC pipe or know where I
-> can get a small quantity cheap.  I only need a piece about 6" long.

 Look at your local home center.  They carry thinwall caps and adapters
in various sizes; maybe you could adapt one of those instead of buying a
hunk of pipe.
                            

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 11:51:16 1994
Subject: Summit Racing
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 I've been trying to get through to Summit to order some pistons.  I've
been calling three or four times a day since Monday.  Now I'm sitting
here after 3 AM wardialing the place, and I'm still getting that damned
busy signal.
                                                                                                                

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 11:56:08 1994
Subject:       garden tractor pulls
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The tractor pulling season is in full swing now.  Te charter
doesn't indicate that tractors are part of the 'normal' discussion, 
but it does indicate the garden tractors are, so....

Remaining ITPA pulls which have the 1050 Super Stock Garden Tractor 
pulls scheduled.  (Time listed is when pull start, not the class)

  Fri July 22, 7:30.  Pike Co. Fair, Pleasant Hill IL
  
  Mon Aug 8, 6:00.  Effingham Co. Fair, Altamont IL
  
  Fri Aug 19, 9:30 AM.  Ill State Fair, Springfield IL

Mark W. Blunier     "I hate when people drive the speed limit.
blunier@cei.com      There ought to be a law against it."

----------
Posted by: "Mark Blunier" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 17:21:11 1994
Subject: Re: Pipe
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>Anyone have some scrap 5" dia. schedule 40 PVC pipe or know where I can get a 
>small quantity cheap.  I only need a piece about 6" long.  

>The local plastic's place will only sell 10' at $6 per foot.

>I am making a snorkle so that the throttle-body will be intaking air from a 
>filter mounted on top of the hood.  A velocity stack is too wide at the top for
>me to use.

>Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  

Any particular reason it has to be PVC?  Clothes dryer ducting is about the
diameter you're looking for, the galvanized sheet metal ducts can be found
cheap at your local home improvement store.  If the diameter is too large you
can just slit it and overlap the edges.

If you don't mind the bumps, you can even use a 3 pound coffee can slit and
overlapped.

David Wright (dwrig@tog-1s.hac.com)

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Posted by: emory!tog-1s.hac.com!dwrig (David Wright)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 17:27:05 1994
Subject: Re: Halon, Eco-insanity and NewSpeak 
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Carl> how effective this is compared to Halon-1301 (will it cost lives
Carl> that might have been saved).

I hope that Halon-replacement works as well as Halon-1301.

There was a documentary on Discovery or PBS or some such on
Halon-replacement fire supression system in jet engines.  Short
summary: nothing tried worked nearly as effectively or as consistently
as Halon.

Granted the documentary focused on military applications, but there
must be numerous commercial uses of Halon-1301.  It's inexcusable that
EPA has banned Halon-1301 without a proven replacement.  We're not
talking about folks sweating in old cars here; we're talking lost
lives.

-- Chris.
(ch@lks.csi.com)

----------
Posted by: Christopher Hoover 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 17:33:29 1994
Subject: Re: Engine swaps - engine angle
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> ->  It's true that the engine/trans
> -> drive axis and rearend drive axis should be parallel.   You would
> -> also think that the closer these axis are (ie the closer the
> -> driveSHAFT is to being parallel with eng/trans/diff), the less power
> -> loss/stress occurs in u-joints.
>
> Yes, but you have to have *some* angularity - a degree or so - or the
>U-joints won't be properly lubricated, according to most sources.  I've
>wondered if just greasing them regularly would be enough.

>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

Don't you also need a small angle with the system at rest so that when the
engine torque is applied and the rear end rotates slightly on the spring
perches it is now almost straight?  If you set it straight while parked,
then it would be more angled under acceleration (and the binding would be
increasing as the engine torque and rearend deflection goes up).

Carl Ijames     ijames@helix.nih.gov



----------
Posted by: emory!helix.nih.gov!ijames (Carl F. Ijames)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 17:39:15 1994
Subject: Re:  Summit Racing
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Summit can be VERY hard to get ahold of.  I do not yet understand 
why that is.  I have given up using any of the normal, published numbers,
and have had a great success with xxx-xxx-xxxx.  Should I really tell
you?  Yeah, I probably should.  

The special customer service auto-answer, press many buttons, wait 
a bit and get a human number is 216 630 0220.  Do not call it!  I want
to order a few more things.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 17:45:01 1994
Subject: Re: Summit Racing
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> 
> 
>  I've been trying to get through to Summit to order some pistons.  I've
> been calling three or four times a day since Monday.  Now I'm sitting
> here after 3 AM wardialing the place, and I'm still getting that damned
> busy signal.
>                                                                                                                 

I find this happening alot myself.  There's only one rep working the 3rd
shift, and he's probably got just one line.  Maybe we need to send letters
of complaint to the company.....  If we can't get thru, then how do they
expect to make any sales???

----------
Posted by: emory!auspex.com!gdumpit (George Dumpit)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jun 30 17:50:56 1994
Subject: Re: dem ol' air conditioner blues
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-> doesn't flash to vapor until it reaches the purge valve.  All kinds
-> of pyro possibilities here too :-)  JGD]

 Hmm.  Twenty pounds of propane ought to flush a Harrison compressor
pretty good, eh?

 Should the compressor be spinning during flush, or can it just sit
there?
                       
[Gee, I dunno.  I don't usually flush through the compressor.  Guess
it could just sit there.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)