From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 02:22:20 1994
Subject: Alternator brackets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> C'mon, you Chevy guys have got it easy :-) Morosso makes an
-> adjustable alternator bracket for the SBC that may be the hot ticket.
-> They are widely used on GT1 road race cars (among many others).

 Ah, but Chevy also used a dozen different belt offsets, plus the
Corvette was almost always a special case, bracket-wise.  Not only that,
but the for the '84-'94, almost every year is different!  That's why
B&M's Corvette blower kit is listed for "1984 only, or use 1984
brackets."  Which in many cases means new air conditoning and power
steering hoses, etc.
      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 02:27:44 1994
Subject: Re: aluminum rods
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Don't get so down on 7000 series aluminum, Dave.  Seems as if it is good
enough to be used in commercial aircraft such as Boeing 747's and
fighter craft like the F-14 Tomcat.  In fact, 7075 makes up the entire
fuselage skin in the later, as well as the frame.

The reason it is popular is not the tensile strength as you say but the
stiffness of the material - really, the stiffness-to-weight ratio of the
material.  Most designs (including connecting rods) are what is called
"stiffness critical".  This means that the deformation of the component
becomes the constraint and not fracture or strength.  Other reasons it
is useful are its obvious corrosion resistance and its not-so-obvious
damping characteristics.

Most hotrodders could never tell the difference if you secretly replaced
their aluminum rods with steel ones ("we've replaced it with Folgers").
Boggles the mind why people chuck their perfectly good steel forgings
for aluminum buckers come rebuild time.  I guess that's part of the fun
of this hobby.

Peace,
Steve

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Posted by: emory!MIT.EDU!cimasz
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 02:33:50 1994
Subject: Re: Reply to Spherical Rotary Valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article <-hh5-xf@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>    Leaving aside any airflow and combustion chamber differences
> and their effect on horsepower, a stock 302 short block ain't gonna
> turn 10,000 RPM. Period. Like with their claims for the Mercedes
> conversion, their numbers are beyond the bounds of possibility.

If your bull-shit detector does not go into orbit at the thought
of ANY 5+L V8 turning 10K rpm, I've got an even better bridge deal
for you...

>  Rotary valves have been around almost as long as poppets.  Their
> sealing and airflow problems have never been successfully solved.  The
> drawings of the Coates don't look any different than 1930s designs.  The
> 1930s were pretty well the end for rotary valves.

Longer. Rotary and semi-rotary valves where long used in big steam
engines, the Corliss being the classic.

Look up the authors L.J.K. Setright, and Rickardo(?). Neither is
young ( well LJK will claim young at heart ;-) ) but air flow is
pretty much the same as it was in the 30's.

LJK's "Some Unusual Engines" is a good over view of what won't work,
and why. He also did a very good work on valves, but its details
have faded...

The poppet valve has one HUGE advantage. It is cheap. No nasty
re-tooling, simple working surfaces, any old cruddy drive mech will
do.

Its weak points are inertia, so-so gas flow, and exhaust valve temp.
But it does not form the wall of the combustion chamber as spherical
valves have too. Shoving all that heat load through 2 thicknesses
of metal and a SEALING oil film is not fun.

The single sleeve valve is probably the only alternative to the poppet
for auto use.


--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

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Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  2 02:40:44 1994
Subject: Re: Engine.FYI updates
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article  The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:

:>-> Damn damn damn.  I wanna be older so I have accumulated the toys and
:>-> the place to put them like you have, but I don't want to give up the
:>-> years right away.  Know what I mean?

:>   Only 35, and you make it sound like I have one foot in the
:>grave already.   You're never too old to have a second childhood, Chris.
:>

	Shoot, I had you pegged for a coon's^H^H^H^H^HJohn's^H^H^H^H^H
older than that.  :-)

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 00:28:37 1994
Subject: Re: aluminum rods
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> Don't get so down on 7000 series aluminum, Dave.  Seems as if it is
-> good enough to be used in commercial aircraft such as Boeing 747'

 That's a different type of application.  Also, most aircraft
construction I've come across has been 6000 series sheet and 2000 series
forgings; 7000 series is brittle, which you don't want on aircraft.

 I expect Boeing et.al. manage to enforce a bit better quality control
than the company I worked for could; I found a broken tap inside a piece
of certified mil-spec 7075 once, and I've found a lot of sand.


-> Most hotrodders could never tell the difference if you secretly
-> replaced their aluminum rods with steel ones ("we've replaced it with
-> Folgers").

 If you've ever swapped steel rods for aluminum you'll notice a small
but definite increase in throttle response due to the lighter weight.
You get an added bonus due to the weight that has to come off the crank
- in a small block Chevy, quite a bit of metal has to come off to
balance aluminum rods.  You'll never go back to steel without adding
Mallory metal.


-> Boggles the mind why people chuck their perfectly good steel forgings
-> for aluminum buckers come rebuild time.  I guess that's part of the
-> fun of this hobby.

 Not everyone has forged rods.  Plenty of cars - Pontiac and Ford V8s
for example - normally came with cast rods.  If you want to run a
different length rod, custom-length aluminum rods are about 2/3 the
price of custom-length steel rods.  Used to aluminum rods were about
half the price of steel, period, but there are a lot of el cheapo
steelies on the market now.

 Besides the aluminum rods are pretty.  
                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 00:35:41 1994
Subject: Re: Reply to Spherical Rotary Valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> If your bull-shit detector does not go into orbit at the thought of
-> ANY 5+L V8 turning 10K rpm, I've got an even better bridge deal for
-> you...

 Oh, Pro Stock drag motors have been in that territory for some years
now, but you're talking about match race motors that are torn down after
every run.  You can get away with a lot of stuff with a lot of money and
less than sixty seconds' run time.

 Doing it with a stock short block, though - the BS detector just
wrapped the needle around the Tilt peg...


-> Longer. Rotary and semi-rotary valves where long used in big steam
-> engines, the Corliss being the classic.

 Thanks!  I'd forgotten about the external combustion engines.


-> LJK's "Some Unusual Engines" is a good over view of what won't work,
-> and why. He also did a very good work on valves, but its details

 Practically anything of LJK Setright's is worth reading.  Is that the
complete title, and does it have an ISBN number?


-> The poppet valve has one HUGE advantage. It is cheap. No nasty
-> re-tooling, simple working surfaces, any old cruddy drive mech will
-> do.

 Poppets also work, and they work plenty well for the average passenger
car.  Even some large two stroke Diesels still use poppets at one end of
the cylinder instead of piston porting both intake and exhaust.
           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 00:42:38 1994
Subject: Re: Straight Brake lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> I'm in the process of changing from a single circuit to a dual circuit
> brake system. This means that I have to run two lines, side by side,
> across the firewall, where all can see.
> This stuff is sold in rolls and all I want to know is how the hell to
> get the damn stuff straight.

First, make sure you unroll it straight, with out twisting
the tubing. Cut to a bit longer than you need, then get 2
broad planks and roll the tubing between them.

Also, see if you can borrow a set of Eastman tools for the job.
Most flaring and bending tools are not worth a pinch of goat shit,
and will cause a load of grief.

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 00:47:51 1994
Subject: Re: forging steel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Posted by: Tom Carver 
>I have a simple metalurgy question:
>
>If you take steel bar stock (hot-rolled plain old steel), and bend it by
>heating it cherry red and bending, does it reduce the strength of the steel
>greatly?  
>
>I've been making some simple brackets and stuff by heating it with my
>oxy-acetylene torch and bending it.  The steel gets some crusty grey scale on
>it which is easily brushed off.  I'm just wondering if the strength of the
>steel is greatly reduced by this simple forging operation.  I let it cool
>slowly, so I assume it's in a sort of annealed state.
>

Hi Tom,

(Isn't the net great.  I post this across the US instead of just 
walking across the street to talk to ya  :^)

I'm no expert on metallurgy, but I'll give it a shot:

It depends on the type of steel you're starting with.
Cold rolled, you're probably weakening it substantially.
Hot Rolled, you may  be weakening it, depending on the
history of the piece, carbon content, and the time-temp 
cycle you give it, etc. 

Heat treating is a complicated (to me anyway) subject, and
isn't a simple problem.  This topic is discussed once in a
while on rec.crafts.metalworking.  Perhaps someone over
there can give a bit more insight.

Also, heating with oxy-acetyl can sometimes surface-harden
(like case-hardening) the part since carbon from the flame
can diffuse into the surface. 

-Eric

-- 
Al Gore: "President Clinton is running this country in a way that it 
          hasn't been run in a long time."
Me:      "Yeah, since Nixon." 
                Whitewater can be dangerous. Ask Vince Foster.

----------
Posted by: emory!everest.Stanford.EDU!eap (Eric Perozziello)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 04:15:49 1994
Subject: Have Parts, Will Deal
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I'm posting this for a friend please reply to him.  His Email address
and phone number are at the end of this note!

================================================

For sale: 1935 Chevy frame, body part, trans, wheels.

  Available are remnants of a '35 2-door sedan that had a very hard
  life.  Thinking that it might prove useful for a hotrod or maybe as
  replacement for restoring a '35 to stock, the center of the body was
  saved; that is, the firewall/dashboard/cowling/windshield frame section.
  It is rusty, there are no guages, but if anyone can use this, let me
  know else I'll drop it in the fiery furnace.  

  We also have the frame, transmission, and 2 or 3 of the original wheels.
  Make an offer?

Please respond at clyde@iit.com, or call 415-941-7015.





-- 
********************************************************************
* Necessity is the excuse for every infringement of human freedom. *
*  It is the argument of the TYRANT, and the creed of the slave.   *
*                                                                  *
*                                -- William Pitt, 1763 --          *
********************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!rogerd (Roger D.)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 16:14:55 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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DIRK BROER wrote:

>Sounds like the power valve on the primary side is opening up.  Basically 

 Of course I forgot to mention it... there is enough vacuum, like 10-14". The
valve should open somewhere around 5" (I shortened the spring, so the point
moved even closer to zero vacuum, I don't want it to open before I step
on it).

>load on the engine the power valve will open.  Some Quadrajets have an 
>adjustment screem on the powervalve / metering rod assembly.  When you have 

>resulting hole allowing me to adjust the power valve opening point a few 
>inches of Hg.

 Opening point, hmm..? APT-screw adjusts cruise mixture and it's ok now
(that damn car service took me $xxx for extra fuel, they "adjusted" the
screw all the way up...).

 I bent the lever under the piston slightly and I think it richens a bit
later now, I'll try to bend it more and see what happens. Here's a small
picture about the lever, if somebody becomes inspired to explain it:

  I    I
  I __XXX
----- XXX       APT screw left, power valve right
  I   XXX
  I   XXX
  I   XXX 
       I
       I
      ------o   lever
        
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr  3 16:21:46 1994
Subject: Re: shredded GM 12 bolt diff (replacement)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: The vehicle:
: 
:   1978 1/2 ton 2WD Suburban.
:   350 V8, TH350
:   12 bolt rear end.  large (2.75" wide) rear brakes.  **UNKNOWN RATIO**
: 
:   spedometer inaccuracy - 55 mph road speed = 67 mph indicated on speedo
: 
: What happened:
:
Basically, Major mess inside the diff
 
:   Damaged internals, damaged housing ---> scrap it, replace with used one.
: 
:   The big red guy has ?50,000 miles on it and substancial rust.  I would
:   like to spend the minimum amount of money that will enable me to fix it
:   right (say 30,000 miles life expectancy).
: 
:   I plan to replace it with a rear end from a salvage yard.
: 
: Questions & advice sought:
: 
:   1. What information is needed to specify a replacement?  I want to make
:      this a bolt-up swap - no welding or special fabrication.
:
If you want it to be really simple, use a 12 bolt out of any 73 to 82 chevy
truck.  They are all the same.  You could even use a 10 bolt from a 83 to 
87 chevy truck.  The axles in trucks and Suburbans are the same.  If you 
really want an axle that would last, you could even swap in a 14 bolt from a 
one ton, but that requires quite a bit more work.
 
:   2. Ratio - What should I put in?  (unfortunately, the original not known
:      and is a 30 mile walk from where I live)
: 
:      The vehicle is a daily driver and general junk hauler.  I won't ever
:      race it, but I hate being embarrased in traffic.
:
I would try for 3.42 or 3.73.  If you are not too concerned with mileage, or 
if you haul heavy loads (besides the 'Burban) you could even put in a 4.11
rearend.  I wouldn't worry too much.  Any 12 bolt you find will most likely 
have 3.42 or 3.73 gears in it anyway, especially if it is out of a 4x4.
 
:     2.1 How do I find out what *should* have been in it (speedo is way off)
:
It depends.  It the speedo reads fast, someone has probably installed lower 
than stock gears in it.  4.11 would be a good guess.  the other option is 
that the speedo itself is to blame.  Such would be the case if it is off by
the same amount at all speeds.  What it comes down to is do you really mind.
As long as you know that 55 reads 73 or whatever, you can live with it can't 
you?  If you really want if fixed, try finding a truck at the yard with a
little box at the end of the speedometer cable where it plugs into the trans.
This is a factory gear reduction that was used to correct just such a problem.
My 78 4x4 has one, so I don't know if they came on 2x's or not.
 
:   3. What is a fair price if someone else does the swap for me?
:
I really don't know.  I would think that a replacement axle would cost
50 or 75 dollars, and it would take 3 or 4 hours to install.  I do all of 
the work on my vehicle so I really have no real base, though.  Check around.
 
: 
: Any help greatly appreciated.
: 
: 
: Ralph Metcalf                       metcalf@blast.bso.uiuc.edu
:                              "Gee, I wonder what this button does ..."
: 
: ----------
: Posted by: emory!blast.bso.uiuc.edu!metcalf (Ralph R. Metcalf)

It must be the self destruct button, push it and see!!!!! :)
Christopher Hinds
cdhinds@mtu.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!mtu.edu!cdhinds (Baja Dude)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 03:28:37 1994
Subject: PROM Hex offsets and descriptions for '89+ 350 TBI ECMs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Does anyone have information regarding the PROM found in ECMs
from 350 TBI '89 - '94 Trucks?  I have found information on
the Buick GN ROM explaining all of the offsets and what they
do, but no info on current PROMs.  This is certainly the perfect
forum for such, since most of us are highly computer and electronically
literate.  
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

I'm going to drop that 350 TBI into my El Camino and I will soup
it up as much as possible, and therefore will need to create a 
custom PROM.  

Also, do all 350 TBIs from trucks have 4-bolt blocks? Or is it
just certain ones?

----------
Posted by: emory!rosie.uh.edu!st3xd (Fisher, Jeffrey L.)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 03:34:29 1994
Subject: Re: Straight Brake lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Steve Baldwin inquires:
: I'm in the process of changing from a single circuit to a dual circuit
: brake system. This means that I have to run two lines, side by side,
: across the firewall, where all can see.
: This stuff is sold in rolls and all I want to know is how the hell to
: get the damn stuff straight.

When you unroll the line use the following technique.  Place the spool
on the floor such that when you unroll it the tubing comes off the roll
where it contacts the floor.  This will unbend it just the right amount
to make it straight.  If the line is on a spool that precludes the tubing
touching the floor, use some lumber to build up a raised surface that you
can unroll the line on.

(This tip from the electronics tech. in my department.)

--
Mark Walker			| My old man always said:
mwalker@chama.eece.unm.edu	|	"Too much is just right!"
505/277-3688  (home 899-0644)	| Guess that applies to my preferences
Albuquerque, NM			| in performance cars.

----------
Posted by: emory!lynx.unm.edu!warlock.eece.unm.edu!mwalker (Mark Walker)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 11:41:23 1994
Subject:      Re: 289 Hi-Po cylinder heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Thanks Todd for the info on the heads. I think I'll pass on these
due more to lack of money than desire. If you think you want to take a
look at them for your block, I have the fellows name and number.

----------
Posted by: Bob Bigelow 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 13:43:54 1994
Subject: Re: PROM Hex offsets and descriptions for '89+ 350 TBI ECMs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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> Does anyone have information regarding the PROM found in ECMs
> from 350 TBI '89 - '94 Trucks?  I have found information on
> the Buick GN ROM explaining all of the offsets and what they
> do, but no info on current PROMs.  This is certainly the perfect
> forum for such, since most of us are highly computer and electronically
> literate.  

First, the there are going to be slight differences in the PROM for
every year, and will also be differences according to tranmission
type.  Also, the 93-94 ECM's are totally different from the 89-92.
I have limited info from GM on a specific 1991 ECM, but I think
we had a nondisclosure agreement with GM.  However, if you were to
transfer to the University of Texas @ Austin I could show you everything I
have :).  What GN stuff do you have?  The only thing I've seen is
something Scott Mueller uploaded to CompuServe, at it doesn't contain
anything about spark advance or fuel.
  
> I'm going to drop that 350 TBI into my El Camino and I will soup
> it up as much as possible, and therefore will need to create a 
> custom PROM.  

How do you plan on tuning it?
  
> Also, do all 350 TBIs from trucks have 4-bolt blocks? Or is it
> just certain ones?

To my knowledge, NONE of them have 4-bolt blocks.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 14:08:01 1994
Subject: Chevy TH-350 shift points
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Jon Warwick wrote:
>	I have a TH-350 sitting behind a Chevy 350 in my project
>truck. I have a problem in that the trans. shifts to taller gears
>way too soon (the motor dosen't get to rev very high at all in L1
>or L2).


I was going to reply to Jon directly but I thought that the answer
might be of general interest so I decided to post it instead.

First, I need to ask a qualifying question: has the transmission
been modified (e.g., installation of a shift kit)?  If so, then
the kit may the cause of your problems.  In any case, read on
for some ideas.

A few comments about how the trans works: decisions about what
road speed to shift at, and how harsh the shift is, are made by
a simple hydraulic computer.  The harshness of the shift is
determined solely by engine vacuum; the vacuum modulator is used
to sense the vacuum and to change the vacuum signal into a pressure
signal inside the tranny.  The higher this pressure, the more
harshly the trans shifts.  This modulator pressure is also used
to decide at what road speed to shift.

The road speed is measured by a governor which is at the tail
of the tranny.  It is gear driven from the tailshaft and therefore
it responds to driveshaft RPM which is proportional to road speed
(unless the tires are spinning).  The governor generates a pressure
signal internal to the trans; this pressure increases with road
speed but not in a linear fashion.  Since the governor uses weights
which are spun out by its rotation, the force (and therefore the
pressure) generated is proportional to the square of the RPM.
In an attempt to somewhat linearize this the designers have used
two sets of weights, one light and one heavy.  The two are
separated by small springs.  The heavy weights operate at lower
RPM (road speed).  When a sufficiently high RPM is reached then
the weights hit stops and do not contribute any more to the
pressure signal.  At this RPM the light set of weights begins to
provide the increases in the pressure signal.  Higher RPM always
means a higher pressure, but not necessarily in proportion to the
road speed.

The transmission decides which gear to use by comparing the pressures
provided by the modulator and by the governor.  If the difference
between these two pressures exceeds an amount determined by a spring
in a shift valve assembly then that shift valve operates and selects
the next higher gear.  There are two shift valve assemblies, one for
the 1-2 shift and the other for the 2-3 shift.  The system works
as follows: assume that you are idling and then begin to open the
throttle.  The engine vacuum at idle causes a very low modulator
pressure (nearly 0).  The governor pressure is 0 because there
is no tailshaft RPM (no road speed). As you open the throttle and
begin to accelerate the engine vacuum drops.  This causes the
modulator pressure to rise.  Assuming that the engine vacuum remains
constant due to a steady throttle position, the modulator pressure
will remain at a steady value.  As the vehicle picks up road speed the
governor pressure rises.  When the governor pressure force exceeds the
modulator pressure force by a small amount then the 1-2 shift valve
operates and engages the clutch which shifts the tranny into 2nd gear.
The rate of clutch engagement is a function of the modulator pressure;
low modulator pressure causes slow engagement and a smooth shift.
High modulator pressure due to large throttle opening causes harsh shifts.
As the vehicle continues to gain road speed the governor pressure
continues to increase.  Eventually the governor pressure force exceeds
the modulator pressure force by enough to operate the 2-3 shift valve.
This activates another clutch pack which shifts the transmission
into third gear.

Note that I spoke of pressure forces above.  This is due to the fact
that the pressures operate on the ends of small pistons (the shift
valves).  The pressure applied to the area of the piston develops
a force.  Since the shift valves have two ends, and since pressure
is applied to both ends (one end from the modulator and one end
from the governor), the difference between the two forces causes
the valve to move to one end or the other of its travel.  Because
the areas of the two ends of the valve do not have to be equal, the
valve will operate in accordance to the difference between some
constant times the governor pressure versus the modulator pressure.
This fact allows the designer quite a bit of latitude in determining
at what road speeds the transmisison will shift.  There are also small
springs which apply force to one end of the shift valves and these
also affect the road speed at which the shifts occur.

There are other complications in the tranny.  For example, it has a
means of deciding when the throttle is wide open (the detent cable)
and WOT causes the modulator pressure to be ignored and instead a
constant pressure from a detent regulator is used on the shift
valves.  This causes shifts to occur at the maximum possible road
speed for each gear.  There is a manual valve which is connected to
the gear selector lever and which selects reverse, neutral, and
can lock out either 3rd gear or lock out 2nd and 3rd gear.  There
is a main pressure regulator which is controlled by the modulator
pressure; higher modulator pressures increase the pressure of the
main oil which supplies everything else.  Most of these complications
can be ignored for the present time because Jon's interest is in the
road speeds at which the tranny shifts.

Now, to get to the question of adjusting the shift speeds.  There
is no "adjustment bolt on the side of the trans".  The only way to make
major changes to the shift speeds is to modify or replace either the
governor or the valve body.  You can make minor changes to the
shift speeds by installing an adjustable aftermarket vacuum modulator.
The total adjusting range of these modulators is about 4 to 5 MPH
at WOT.  At cruising speeds you will get about 2 MPH total adjustment
range.  This probably isn't enough to suit.

Working on the governor is probably the best approach to adjusting
the shift speeds.  The factory actually offers a high shift speed
governor; it was used in a few HP applications such as Camaros.
You can just swap one of these in and you will see a dramatic
increase in shift speeds.  In fact, it may shift at too high a
road speed after the change.  E-mail me if you are interested in
the part number; I will have to look it up and it may take a couple
of days.

Another approach to modifying the governor is to get a B&M governor
kit and to install it in a NEW factory governor.  Governors are
very sensitive and delicate beasts; they "take a set" when they
have been run for a while and they _don't_ like to be messed with.
A new governor will probably save you the grief of a sticking
governor after modification.  The B&M kit comes with an assortment
of small weights and several springs.  You have to experiment to find
the right combination.  It took me 10 or 11 tries to get the WOT
shift speeds that I wanted.  The B&M instructions are downright poor;
you need to change the weights to get the 1-2 shift speed that you want,
and you need to change the springs to get the 2-3 shift speed that you
want.  Unfortunately, these changes interact and you will need to
iterate to get both of them where you want them.

The governor is fairly easy to change because it is accessible
by removing a small cover on the side of the tranny at the rear.
Caution: the trans will be hot when you are down there messing with
the governor.  It is easy to burn yourself.  I suggest gloves.
And you will probably want to lay in a small stock of gaskets for
the governor cover.

As I mentioned above, governors are finicky.  Absolute cleanliness
is a must.  If ANY amount of dirt, grit, grinding compound, metal
shavings, or any other foreign material gets into the governor then
you will have all sorts of shifting problems which will likely
be intermittent and erratic and near impossible to troubleshoot.
The contamination can get washed out of the governor and end up
in the valve body where it will cause bizarre problems.

One final thought: your original question suggested that the
shift speeds are too low at all throttle openings.  One possible
cause of this is a leaky governor.  The leakage could be due to
scoring of the valve journals, or to a loose fit between the
valve journals and the governor shaft.  Or it may be due to wear
on the journals which the governor engages in the case.  If looseness
is the cause of your problem then just replacing the modulator should
fix it.  If case journal wear is the problem then you can get a
kit from a tranny specialist which will allow you to put new bushings
in the journal area.  This fix requires removing the tranny from the
vehicle so that you can properly clean out the metal chips after you
have finished.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com (my Reply address is bad but this works)

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!tesla.is!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 17:42:34 1994
Subject: Re:  Alternator brackets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8162
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Well, just call me billet.  I was very lucky Friday.  I went into a local
place just after I dropped off my wife, and found some scraps.  Very good
scraps.  Correct in 3 dimentions... required one cut for the main bracket,
and about 5 holes.  ( About 50 minutes )  The other piece of the bracket,
the "arm"  was cut from another piece of scrap, which only required one,
yes ONE cut on my bandsaw.  

I am tempted to go back and pick up a few brackets worth of this "scrap"
at $2.00 per pound.  I used 1" hex stock for the spacers.  Tried it out
this morning, and it was nearly perfect.

Also, I found than nearly nobody makes a Thermoquad-to-Quadrajet plate.
But, since I was doing billet work...  A while ago, somebody spent time
DESIGNING the Thermoquad.  After measuring things for about 10 minutes,
drawing some lines and scribing some arcs, I found that it would only
take a few minutes to make a plate, even with the modest quality of my
drillpress.  Anybody want one?

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 17:57:40 1994
Subject: S-10 DragTruck
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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  A Friend of mine has the remains of an 85 or 86 S-10 4wd. The frams is
sound, and the body needs some work but he's willing to part with it for
$350(to me :> ). I'm trying to put together a plan to turn it into a weekend
racer for one of the local tracks here in Washington(SIR or Bremerton).

  My plan so far is to build the 350 4-bolt main block I have using PAW's
rebuild kit(forged pistons, etc.) and one of the Edelbrock matched
Intake/Cam/Carb sets like the 7101 combination.

  The truck itself would have minimal changes - Addition of SB motor mounts
and slight pounding on the firewall. I'd like to change the rear suspension
over to ladder bars and ciol-over shocks, but no tubbing. A set of 15x10
centerlines fits underneath the rear just fine without hanging out of the
fenders.

  The transmission will be a TH350, possibly with a manual shift kit(had one
in my camaro and liked it). I don't know what to use for the rear-end, or
how much trouble  the driveline conversion would be. The motor mounts will
locate the TH350 right on the current crossmember so the shaft length should
be about right.

  So, any thought, ideas, etc? I'm not sure if I'm going to go ahead with
this or not, but I'd like to get as much info as possible. Especially on
rear-end selection.

    Thanks,
      Brian
-- 
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
  HELP! Someone stole my .sig!              |  cypress@hebron.connected.com
                                            |  finger me for PGP 2.3a key
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!hebron.connected.com!cypress (BCL)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 18:04:53 1994
Subject: Dynafact Pitch
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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  A while back someone was asking about what the pitch effects in the Banks
Dynafact. Here's the data:

  Pitch      %Acc
    0.0      100
    0.5      99
    1.0      98
    1.5      97
    2.0      96
    2.5      95
    3.0      95

  Hope this answers the question.

   Brian

-- 
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
  HELP! Someone stole my .sig!              |  cypress@hebron.connected.com
                                            |  finger me for PGP 2.3a key
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!hebron.connected.com!cypress (BCL)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 21:41:17 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article  The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
:> I have some problems with Quadrajet in my car and I hope someone can
:>answer to these questions. The car is '80 full-size Buick, 350 Buick,
:>TH400 and 2.41 rear.

:> According to couple of books, the float level is measured from top of
:>the float to top of the fuel bowl. What has this got to do with fuel
:>level? If I don't know the correct float level, how can I find it?
:>If I set the float level to what Chilton manual says, the needle
:>wouldn't close, because the float hits the ceiling before that - at
:>least it looked like that, didn't want to try...

	Should be in the neighborhood of 13/16".  What this has to do with
fuel level is this:  when the fuel raises the float to its setting level,
the float valve should close, stopping fuel from entering the float bowl.

	I have a rebuild kit that lists the float setting.  I'll try to look
it up tonight and get back to you.  If I forget, then prod me at
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com.

:> The carburator has some kind of lever under the power piston to force
:>the piston up as the primaries open. What is the function of this lever
:>and why it starts pushing the piston from idle. Thus the vacuum piston
:>is only operating (needed) when there is high load and throttles are
:>closed, where can I find this situation?

	There should be some needles hanging off this thing.  When the piston
rises, the needles open up the mains.  On my carb ('71 Buick, 455), the
piston sits on top of a spring and there is no mechanism to adjust it.

:> The A/F-ratio goes rich at about 60 mph (oxygen sensor). What else could
:>cause this apart from that lever? The secondaries aren't open yet.
:>Otherwise engine power and response is good but this richening drops
:>mileage to 14 mpg (city-60-75 mph).

	I'm afraid that I don't know enough about Q-Jets to answer this part,
sorry.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 21:49:23 1994
Subject: RE: S-10 DragTruck
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>  A Friend of mine has the remains of an 85 or 86 S-10 4wd. The frams is
>sound, and the body needs some work but he's willing to part with it for
>$350(to me :> ). I'm trying to put together a plan to turn it into a weekend
>racer for one of the local tracks here in Washington(SIR or Bremerton).

Race only?  O.K.

>  My plan so far is to build the 350 4-bolt main block I have using PAW's
>rebuild kit(forged pistons, etc.) and one of the Edelbrock matched
>Intake/Cam/Carb sets like the 7101 combination.

The only problem with mass-production machine shops is you don't know 
exactly what your getting.  I bet a local shop could do a better job and 
really work with you on what you want/need/ can afford.  Most machine shops 
(at least in my experience the hi - po ones) don't mind you paying / getting 
the parts so you can save on that end.

Depending on what you do to the engine a lot of fitting, assembling, etc is 
involved.  And then when every thing fits and is polished etc. and only 
then do you balance the assebly.

>  The truck itself would have minimal changes - Addition of SB motor mounts
>and slight pounding on the firewall. I'd like to change the rear suspension
>over to ladder bars and ciol-over shocks, but no tubbing. A set of 15x10
>centerlines fits underneath the rear just fine without hanging out of the
>fenders.

Contact Trans-dapt for the mounting kits, contact S&W for the ladder bar 
setups (or Morrison or Alston).  Steel tubs could be welded - a cover over 
the bed will keep everything looking clean.

>  The transmission will be a TH350, possibly with a manual shift kit(had one
>in my camaro and liked it). I don't know what to use for the rear-end, or
>how much trouble  the driveline conversion would be. The motor mounts will
>locate the TH350 right on the current crossmember so the shaft length should
>be about right.

For parts availabilty stick to Dana '60 (overkill) Ford 9" (very popular) 
or chevy 12 bolt.  These are the easiest to find racing parts for.

Complete set up of a rear will run about $1200 almost everything new.  
As long as you keep the power levels reasonable you could get away with 
almost a stock set up (safety rules allowing).

If you make the car a pure racecare you can save alot of hassle (ie. dump 
the street equipement), but a trailer is a must.

Also consider a roll cage to both stiffen the chassis and save your A$$.
Seatbelts and seat follow right behind.

For a low buck set-up don't rebuild the motor.  Up to 5000rpm any 350 will 
do (and maybe beyond).  Clean the motor, install hp cam (not too much) and 
go racing.  Next work on the chassis. then motor.  A light weight car with 
a low power (ie 200 hp) is still alot of fun.

For project cars, especially half hearted ones - progress is a must.  If 
the truck is not your dream car are you still willing to put in all the 
time?  Murphy's law applies.  Take your time estimate + your friends and 
double that and you may be in the ball park.....

Now about the 4wd to 2wd drive conversion.... that may take some work.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr  4 21:56:17 1994
Subject: Re: PROM Hex offsets and descriptions for '89+ 350 TBI ECMs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8167
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In article  Jonathan Lusky (lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu) wrote:
:>> Also, do all 350 TBIs from trucks have 4-bolt blocks? Or is it
:>> just certain ones?

:>To my knowledge, NONE of them have 4-bolt blocks.

	Correct, if you believe HELM manuals.  According to my factory
manual, 454s are the only modern factory blocks with 4-bolt mains.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 00:21:44 1994
Subject: Re: PROM Hex offsets and descriptions for '89+ 350 TBI ECMs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> > Also, do all 350 TBIs from trucks have 4-bolt blocks? Or is it >
-> just certain ones?
>
> To my knowledge, NONE of them have 4-bolt blocks.

 Ah, I was just going to mention that.  Until just recently, like '93 or
'94, there were *no* 4 bolt, one-piece-main-seal blocks.  Not even in
the Corvette or big trucks.

 This weekend I saw a 350 out of a '94 Chevy 1-ton van.  One piece main
etc.  Four bolt mains!  Also had the shorty windage tray.

 I don't know when this came about, or if it has filtered down to the
car stuff yet, but Chevy *does* make them now.
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 01:43:56 1994
Subject: Painting car wo/paint booth legal? 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8169
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--------

   I was "thumbing" through an article in Peterson's Four Wheel and Offroad
yesterday that pertained to automotive painting. It made the statement that
painting a vehicle outside of a paint booth is illegal in most states. That's
news to me. Anyone ever hear this before? 

                                       John S Gwynne
                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
_______________________________________________________________________________
               T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
    ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
                Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7292
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------



----------
Posted by: John S Gwynne 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 11:17:03 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy TH-350 shift points
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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> on Warwick wrote:
>>	I have a TH-350 sitting behind a Chevy 350 in my project
>> truck. I have a problem in that the trans. shifts to taller gears
>> way too soon (the motor dosen't get to rev very high at all in L1
>> or L2).
>
>
> I was going to reply to Jon directly but I thought that the answer
> might be of general interest so I decided to post it instead.

( excellent trans description deleted )

That was a very good post, Bob. I have saved it for future use.

Although you state the delicate nature of the governor, I can't help
but to tell about this low-buck governor mod.

I have included a GIF of the governor weight, that shows how you can
grind it a bit. This will raise WOT and part throttle shifts. 

Of course, this is a crude mod that might junk the weights. But if you
are looking at buying a new set of weights anyway you might want to
try this first.

Thanks to Steve Orlin who supplied the GIF.

Markus


========== BEGIN PIC =============================

begin 644 gov.gif

[GIF removed.  Please don't do this.  That file was over 80k which will
blow up half the mailers in the world and probably won't be transported
by the other half which clip at 64k.  GIFs properly belong on FTP
sites (see the header of this message) or on my email file server.

I have placed the gif in my server in the "pix" archive.  To fetch
it, send mail to listserv@dixie.com and in the body say:

send pix gov.gif

JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 13:18:10 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|> DIRK BROER wrote:
|> 
|> >Sounds like the power valve on the primary side is opening up.  Basically 
|> 
|>  Of course I forgot to mention it... there is enough vacuum, like 10-14". The
|> valve should open somewhere around 5" (I shortened the spring, so the point
                                            ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

By shortening the spring do you mean you cut it? or had it rewound?

Cutting the spring can actually have the opposite effect in some cases.
once the spring is cut it increase the rate (esp if the spring retains
the same height) and so it could overcome the powervalve at a *higher*
vacuum level.  Maybe?

Is there any way to connect a vacuum pump to the power valve vacuum source
and see at what level the spring opens the valve? 

This is how I check the power valve opening point on my Holley. (I still
have the old Qjet) But never tried it on a Qjet.

$0.02

EricY


|> moved even closer to zero vacuum, I don't want it to open before I step
|> on it).

----------
Posted by: (EricY)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 14:07:05 1994
Subject: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Yup, I'm having misfiring problems yet again (argh.)  Anyway, here's the
situation and my questions:  I have a 'done up' Chevy 350 running an HEI
ignition.  When sitting at idle, the tach will bounce around once in a
while like it is misfiring.  Also, when cruising down the street, it will
really start bouncing the tach and misfiring, but at weird times.  When
slowly inching up on the pedal, it will work fine, but if I whack it open
or let off the gas when cruising at around 3000 RPM, it either misfires 
causing the tach to bounch between 1000-3000 (as I slow down further it 
doesn't bounce as much) or ping like crazy when accelerating.  Also, when
it does work right (i.e. no misfiring at low RPMs) once it gets above 4500 or
so it really begins missing.

I've been trying to figure it out as it was driving me nuts on the way to 
work today and it seems to me like I may have two problems.  I think they are
1) an anal-retentive module in the HEI causing the high-RPM misfires and
2) a leaky vacuum advance on the HEI causing the low-RPM misfires.  I think
it is 2 problems because it is more pronounced in the low-RPM range when I
put on my 750 vac. carb which produces a little more low-end vacuum vs. my
650 double pumper.  Both would cause the misfires, but the 750 is much worse
(I think because it is vacuum operated and plays hell with the vacuum.)

Anyway, the solution to #2 is to replace the vacuum advance diaphram.  The
solution to #1 was to call Summit and order that MSD 6AL I've been wanting to
get anyway. :) :)  (I already have an Accel HEI Super Coil on it, and the
tech guys said that would work just fine with the MSD.)

Now, my questions:  Do those symptoms/causes sound reasonable?  (I'm going to
go check out the vacuum advance in a few minutes at lunch.  Besides, they are
cheap.)  Have I missed anything?  On the MSD, I know it replaces the module and
that is where I have heard the HEI's real problems are, but I was wondering
about the magnetic pickup in the unit.  I've heard they are quite reliable up
to high RPMs, but I wanted to hear from some knowledgable people about them too
if anyone can give me information on their reliability/any tech info that I
may find useful about the magnetic pickups in the HEI (such as how high of
an RPM it is reliable to.)  My coil seems to be ok (I have 2 of them and it
does the same with both.)

Oh, comments/ideas/anything else are always welcome/wanted.  Thanks!!!

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 14:20:23 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8173
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:> The carburator has some kind of lever under the power piston to force
:>the piston up as the primaries open. What is the function of this lever
:>and why it starts pushing the piston from idle. Thus the vacuum piston
:>is only operating (needed) when there is high load and throttles are
:>closed, where can I find this situation?

I'm just guessing now but:

Could this lever be an enrichment circuit to cover the addition of EGR?  It 
is my understanding that on Holley's they simply used larger main jets with 
the assumption that fuel would flow the instant the venturi booster signal 
was going - which also opened the EGR.  I suspect that if timing wasn't 
just perfect this could cause some hesistation.

Maybe it makes sense to enrichen slightly the moment the throttle cracks 
open beyond a certain point.

I'm a little rusty on Q-jets but you mentioned that the enrichment was not 
do to low vacuum (ie. power valve opening).  Have you verified the 
secondaries aren't opening? or causing the enrichment?  Last but not least 
consider the possibility of  the engine vacuum actually pulling more gas 
from the carb that at idle for examle - maybe like a decceloration condition
.  Last but not least - what about a leak?  Wasn't it Q-jets that suffered 
from leaking plugs at the bottom of the bowl?  I remember some carbs having 
this trouble - the fix was filling in the area under the bowl with some 
kind of epoxy.

Just a few thoughts

Dirk 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 14:32:34 1994
Subject: BFG Address
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Sorry to post here, but Dave W's address does not agree with this mailer.

Dave, can you give me the BFG addresses you mentioned a few weeks back?
I'd like to get some Z rated TAs or Comp TAs, but am having trouble wih
the part numbers.  Thanks.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 14:45:15 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy TH-350 shift points
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> 
> > on Warwick wrote:
> >>	I have a TH-350 sitting behind a Chevy 350 in my project
> >> truck. I have a problem in that the trans. shifts to taller gears
> >> way too soon (the motor dosen't get to rev very high at all in L1
> >> or L2).
> >
> >
> > I was going to reply to Jon directly but I thought that the answer
> > might be of general interest so I decided to post it instead.
> 
> ( excellent trans description deleted )
> 
> That was a very good post, Bob. I have saved it for future use.
> 
	I am the guy that Bob wrote his excellent trans. post to and
I have just called B&M in Calif. They said the FEDS. made them stop
building the governor shift point modification kits because it didn't
comply with the emissions laws. 
	He said I could use a governor out of a Camaro or Vette to 
achieve higher shift points but it would be kind of hit or miss for
my application ('72 Suburban 4x4). After I told him that the WOT
shift points are acceptable, it is just that the partial throttle
shifts that are too soon, he suggested a simple tweaking of the 
adjustable vaccuum modulator. I was told that 3 or 4 turns of the 
tiny screw inside the vaccuum port would cure my ills. ...We'll see.

					Jon Warwick




----------
Posted by: emory!Belle.wes.army.mil!warwick (Jon Warwick)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 14:56:11 1994
Subject: Re: Painting car wo/paint booth legal? 
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: --------

:    I was "thumbing" through an article in Peterson's Four Wheel and Offroad
: yesterday that pertained to automotive painting. It made the statement that
: painting a vehicle outside of a paint booth is illegal in most states. That's
: news to me. Anyone ever hear this before? 

I'm going to presume that that referred to commercial painting only

I know far too many people, including my husband, who paint without a booth
on their own property on their cars

:                                        John S Gwynne
:                                           Gwynne.1@osu.edu
: _______________________________________________________________________________
:                T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
:     ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
:                 Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7292
: -------------------------------------------------------------------------------



: ----------
: Posted by: John S Gwynne 

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 15:03:15 1994
Subject: T350 governor tips
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Markus wrote:
> have included a GIF of the governor weight, that shows how you can
>grind it a bit. This will raise WOT and part throttle shifts.


Yes, this is an inexpensive way to raise the shift points.  In my
previous article I tried to avoid getting into too much detail in
order to avoid confusion but my posting has generated a lot of
interest so I'll expand upon the subject a bit.

Governor modifications

(for the unintimidated)

The GM T350 and T400 modulators are built from only a few parts -
the shaft (an aluminum casting), the valve (a steel spool valve),
two pivot shafts, two pairs of weights, two springs, and a plastic
drive gear which is pinned to the end of the shaft.  The design is
elegantly simple - oil pressure acts on one end of the valve while
force from the spinning weights ats on the other.  The valve allows
oil to flow from the main line into the output passage until the
pressure in the output passage causes sufficient force to counter
the force developed by the spinning weights at which time the valve
moves to the closed position and prevents any further pressure
increase.

If you want higher shift points then you want the governor to develop
a given pressure at a higher RPM.  This means that you want less force
from the weights at any given RPM.  The obvious modification is to
take some of the mass off of the weights, and this works well.
However, there are some practical details to keep in mind.

As I mentioned in the previous posting, governors are finicky.
They need to be really clean to work properly.  If you do any work
on one, be sure that you have cleaned out all of the grunge, chips,
and other contaminants before you resintall it.  If you do any
grinding on it you might want to tape it up as much as possible so
that the grinding grit has less chance to get inside, but still do
a thorough cleaning job before reinstalling it.

Now, how to decide what to remove and where to take it off.  The
large weights are of no real interest to us - they only affect
the governor output at low road speeds, probably not more than
15 MPH.  Leave them as is; they work fine that way.  Between the
large weights and the small weights there are a couple of small
coil springs, one on each side.  The small weights are bent into
roughly a right angle shape.  One end of the small weight has a
tab which presses against the end of the spool valve; this is
where the force is applied to the valve.  The other end of the
small weight hangs out and is the portion which the rotation of
the governor forces outwards.  The outermost end of this portion is
the place where you remove material.  The middle of the small
weight is pivoted on a pin which runs through the shaft housing.

You want to remove material from the corners and, if necessary, the
edges of the outermost portion of the weights.  Removing material from
the end of the weight has the greatest effect; removing material from the
sides of the weight has less effect.  Don't remove any from the area
near the spring; the spring needs a place to sit!  The question of how
much to remove has to be answered by trial and error.  The high RPM
factory governor appears to have about 1/3 less metal in the weights
than the standard factory governor.  This should give you an idea of
how much effect trimming the weights has.  I suggest caution when
removing metal - it's much harder to put it back than to take it off!

Note that the factory governor is very symmetrical.  There's a couple
of reasons for that - one, it's cheaper to make all the parts using
the same setup, and two, the symmetry balances the forces and minimizes
the tendency for the governor to wear and to stick.  You want to try to
retain as much symmetry as you can in order to minimize these problems.
In other words, take equal amounts of material off of each side of the
weights, and take the same amount from both weights.

Lightening the weights will raise the shift points, but it won't
raise both the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts by the same amount.  The other
variable which affects the shift speeds is the springs.  To really
tailor both shifts you will need to change the spring force as well
as the mass of the weights.  The only source that I know of for
replacement springs of different force is the B&M kit.  It may
be possible to find suitable springs elsewhere, or to wind them
yourself.

A few words about governor failures

There are a few standard governor problems which are worth mentioning.
The first is dirt in the valve assembly.  This can cause sticking and/or
unusual wear of the valve portion.  The valve is made from steel but
its housing (the shaft) is an aluminum casting.  Any abrasives in the
area can cause wear which mostly happens to the housing.  Wear causes
an increase in oil leakage around the valve, and gives unusually
high governor pressures.  This results in a symptom of shifts occurring
at too low a road speed.  If the governor valve is sticking then the
shifts occur at unpredictable road speeds, either higher or lower
than expected.

Another problem is wear in the transmission housing where the
governor shaft engages the journals in the housing.  This can cause
the same problems as wear in the valve area.  This problem can be fixed -
transmission shops can usually sell you a kit which allows the housing
to be re-bushed.  It does take a good bit of work to do this because
you must disassemble the transmission to do a proper cleaning job
afterwards.

Another problem is a worn or broken gear on the governor.  The plastic
gear serves the function of a mechanical "fuse".  If the governor binds
for some reason then the gear breaks or its teeth strip off.  This
prevents major damage from happening to the remainder of the transmisison.
If the drive gear breaks then the governor doesn't turn and, if there
are no other problems, the governor thinks that the road speed is very
low and the trans won't shift out of first gear.

There is a screen in the oil supply to the governor.  This is normally
in one of the governor pipes inside the pan.  If the screen gets clogged
then the oil pressure supply to the governor is reduced and the
governor's output pressure will be low.  The vehicle will shift at
road speeds which are higher then expected, or, if the screen is
totally blocked, the transmission will stay in first gear.

Tips on governor R&R

The governor is at the rear of the transmission and it sits above
the oil in the pan.  This usually means that you can remove the
governor without much oil spillage, maybe a couple of spoonfuls.
I find it advantageous to park heading slightly downhill, or to jack
up the rear end of the vehicle, so that it tilts forward.  This
gets the oil even farther away from the governor and minimizes the
amount that you lose.

When you have been driving the vehicle, the transmission gets
fairly hot.  Amongst other things, the transmission fluid heat
exchanger in the radiator raises the transmission temperature
to near that of the engine, about 200 degrees Fahrenheit.  If
you have been using the torque converter then the fluid will be
hotter than that.  All this means that the governor and the
transmission case will be hot when you are pulling the governor.
I suggest gloves for handling the governor cover and the governor.


Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com (my Reply address is bad but this works)

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!tesla.is!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 17:11:29 1994
Subject: Throttle blade cleanup
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How can a typical throttle blade be cleaned up to flow more air?  I'm
assuming the attaching screws can be filed down, but what (if any)
improvements can be made to the edges without sacrificing
controllability at small throttle openings?  Thanks in advance.
 -- Chuck

   Chuck Fry  Work: chucko@freud.arc.nasa.gov  Play: chucko@rahul.net
 I speak for myself.  NASA and RECOM Technologies speak for themselves.

----------
Posted by: emory!freud.arc.nasa.gov!chucko (Chuck Fry)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 17:24:20 1994
Subject: Re: S-10 DragTruck
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	Should be a fun little truck.  I knew a guy who threw a 350 into his
S-10.  He had rebuilt the stock 2.8 with all the performance goodies, but he
decided that wasn't enough, pulled the works and threw in a 350, mildly 
reworked.  I didn't see the final result, but I'm guessing it was no slouch.
I bought the 2.8 and threw it in my Blazer.  At about 170 HP, it is a hell
of an improvement over stock and really makes the truck driveable.  There are 
still times when I'd like a V8, but you can't have it all.  

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

Ryan

----------
Posted by: emory!scf.usc.edu!kinter (Tommy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr  5 18:56:04 1994
Subject: VORTECH SUPERCHARGER FOR SALE
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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****************FOR SALE****************

VORTECH Supercharger for 5.0L Mustangs.

This is the B-trim kit which does not include
pulleys or the fuel management system.  Pulleys 
which allow you to customize your boost levels
are available from companies for about $150.

This kit is brand new and has never been 
installed.  Asking only $2200.

Call:  Mark (708)979-8868 or
       Tony (708)979-2797

----------
Posted by: emory!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!vsmith (victor.m.smith)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 00:35:22 1994
Subject: HELP - Looking For Person Selling Old Car Ads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I heard there was someone on the net last week who had old car ads
for sale

Are they still available? Let me know either way - Thanks



--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 00:48:56 1994
Subject: Chevy casting numbers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I am looking for some info on the motley parts of an engine that is in my
'84 Z28....

The heads have:
	passenger side: "C 20 79", "3888888", "3GM", "Made in Mexico" yak! 
	driver side: "E 43", "3888888", "GM 40"

The block:
	"110134020", "T0205CGC", "T26", "CONV2", "L21", "70", "3970014"

What do all of those numbers mean?  I assume that "3888888" and "3970014" are
the casting numbers.  Does anyone have a casting book lying around?  Are the
"C20", "E43", and "T26" date codes?  What about "L21"?  Any comments on the
rest of the numbers?

Oh- it's a 2-bolt 350, possibly a marine.

thanks for the input!

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 01:02:17 1994
Subject: RE: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>I've been trying to figure it out as it was driving me nuts on the way to 
>work today and it seems to me like I may have two problems.  I think they are
>1) an anal-retentive module in the HEI causing the high-RPM misfires and

Consider either buying a new control module - $12 at local discount parts 
store or contacting one of the HEI specialty places that make high-rpm 
modules.  This will help high rpm performance with or without the MSD.  
Also look for cross-fire, double check your gaps and go for a smaller gap .
035 instead of .060.

>2) a leaky vacuum advance on the HEI causing the low-RPM misfires.  I think

Disconnect the vacuum advance and run without.  It is only needed for part 
throttle cruise...  This is one way to narrow the problem.

Pinging usually means too much ignition advance or too lean or too hot.  (
or any combination of the above).

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 01:16:13 1994
Subject: Re: Tranny lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article <6an58ha@dixie.com> you wrote:

: I have gotten to the point where I have to install lines from my transmission
: to my transmission cooler, and am wondering just what to use.

: In the past I have bent steel lines, but they never came out well.  Having
: read a bit about automatic transmissions, I realize I could use flexable
: tubing, as long as it was decent stuff.  I am thinking of using the 
: single wire hydraulic hose from Northern Hydraulics, and clamping it.

: ----------
: Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)

This is steel braided (single wire == 1 steel layer) and can handle a
few thousand psi (working pressure). It's bulky and heavy, but it can
probably double as a tow rope. Its bulk makes it somewhat difficult to
route. Its stiffness makes it harder to get a seal using regular hose
clamps. The reusable two piece fittings available for this stuff have
an outer shell and an inner tube. The inner tube is threaded into the
outer shell so that the hose is compressed from the inside out. The
fittings are heavy steel. 

So it's serious overkill and you may have leakage problems unless you
use the proper fittings. I got by with double hose clamps and Permatex
blue sealant but that was after some headaches.

How about using several sections of steel tubing so you can redo each
part until you get it right?

--
Norb Brotz                Cray Research Park    Internet: nbrotz@palm.cray.com
Sr. Programmer/Analyst    655F Lone Oak Drive   UUCP:     uunet!cray!nbrotz
Software Division         Eagan, Mn. 55121      phone:    (612) 683-5698



----------
Posted by: emory!palm.cray.com!nbrotz (Norb Brotz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 01:24:08 1994
Subject: Re: Need Engine Advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Hi guys,
     I just had to add to this one concerning the 390/428 swap.
If you find a 428 or 410 for that matter, you'll also need the
flywheel that has a weight attached since these two engines were
externally balanced and not internally balanced like the 360/390/
427 engines.  As far as the heads go, there were quite a few
different heads.  The most common were the 390 versions and there
were differences between years (intake port sizes).  The 428 
heads were either the standard or the CJ/SCJ type.  These heads
did have a different exhaust manifold bolt pattern (a cross type
pattern instead of one right over the other bolt).  The early FE's
with the 427 had at least 4 different heads.  Do go and buy the
"Ford Performance" book.  It goes into the differences of this
engine family.  As far as a 460 swap, if it's a 360, you're in
for alot of work.  See my responses I wrote to "No Subject Line"
by mistake last week.  Good luck.

Mark Z.  '69 Mach I, '69 Mercury Cyclone

 

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!maz (Mark A Zimmerman)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 12:49:38 1994
Subject: Reply to Re: Reply to Spherical Rotary Valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>
>In article <-hh5-xf@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>>    Leaving aside any airflow and combustion chamber differences
>> and their effect on horsepower, a stock 302 short block ain't gonna
>> turn 10,000 RPM. Period. Like with their claims for the Mercedes
>> conversion, their numbers are beyond the bounds of possibility.
>
>If your bull-shit detector does not go into orbit at the thought
>of ANY 5+L V8 turning 10K rpm, I've got an even better bridge deal
>for you...

What about going from the oval track cars turning 10k to the formula
one cars turning like 14k so whats you problem?

>>  Rotary valves have been around almost as long as poppets.  Their
>> sealing and airflow problems have never been successfully solved.  The
>> drawings of the Coates don't look any different than 1930s designs.  The
>> 1930s were pretty well the end for rotary valves.
>
>Longer. Rotary and semi-rotary valves where long used in big steam
>engines, the Corliss being the classic.
>
>Look up the authors L.J.K. Setright, and Rickardo(?). Neither is
>young ( well LJK will claim young at heart ;-) ) but air flow is
>pretty much the same as it was in the 30's.

And like your poppet valves breathe that much better than they did
when they were first used....

>LJK's "Some Unusual Engines" is a good over view of what won't work,
>and why. He also did a very good work on valves, but its details
>have faded...
>
>The poppet valve has one HUGE advantage. It is cheap. No nasty
>re-tooling, simple working surfaces, any old cruddy drive mech will
>do.

And how many working parts does the poppet valve system use?
How many people do you know that would buy a factory valve train over
an aftermarket valvetrain?

>Its weak points are inertia, so-so gas flow, and exhaust valve temp.
>But it does not form the wall of the combustion chamber as spherical
>valves have too. Shoving all that heat load through 2 thicknesses
>of metal and a SEALING oil film is not fun.

You forget to mention that at high RPM you float and drop valves...
With poppet valves...
The poppet valve does in fact form part of the combustion chamber wall...

----------
Posted by: emory!bucc1.bradley.edu!Richard.P.Bjornson
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 13:06:59 1994
Subject: Reply to Re: Reply to Spherical Rotary Valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>-> If your bull-shit detector does not go into orbit at the thought of
>-> ANY 5+L V8 turning 10K rpm, I've got an even better bridge deal for
>-> you...
>
> Oh, Pro Stock drag motors have been in that territory for some years
>now, but you're talking about match race motors that are torn down after
>every run.  You can get away with a lot of stuff with a lot of money and
>less than sixty seconds' run time.
>
> Doing it with a stock short block, though - the BS detector just
>wrapped the needle around the Tilt peg...

Well lets see, whats the _MAJOR_ reason for tearing down the top of the motor?
THE VALVETRAIN!

>-> The poppet valve has one HUGE advantage. It is cheap. No nasty
>-> re-tooling, simple working surfaces, any old cruddy drive mech will
>-> do.
>
> Poppets also work, and they work plenty well for the average passenger
>car.  Even some large two stroke Diesels still use poppets at one end of
>the cylinder instead of piston porting both intake and exhaust.

For performance purposes, this vavletrain seems like a worthy choice,
even if it cant rev a smallblock to 10k, the resistance loss
is one great reason, and then you can talk about not having to advance the
timing and rough idle and all that too...

----------
Posted by: emory!bucc1.bradley.edu!Richard.P.Bjornson
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 13:15:52 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy TH-350 shift points
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>begin 644 gov.gif
>
>[GIF removed.  Please don't do this.  That file was over 80k which will
>blow up half the mailers in the world and probably won't be transported
>by the other half which clip at 64k.  GIFs properly belong on FTP
>sites (see the header of this message) or on my email file server.
>
>I have placed the gif in my server in the "pix" archive.  To fetch
>it, send mail to listserv@dixie.com and in the body say:
>
>send pix gov.gif
>
>JGD]
>----------
>Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)

Whoops! Sorry. I keep forgetting this is also a mailing list. I read this
as a news group. Won't happen again (posting a GIF, that is).

Markus


----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 13:23:02 1994
Subject: Re: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8189
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In article v5t1r@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>Yup, I'm having misfiring problems yet again (argh.)  Anyway, here's the
>situation and my questions:  I have a 'done up' Chevy 350 running an HEI
>ignition.  When sitting at idle, the tach will bounce around once in a
>while like it is misfiring. 

( snip )

>-- Steve
>stm0@gte.com
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0

If the car didn't come from the factory with HEI, check that you are getting
a full 12V to the HEI. Anything less will give the problems you have. 

Even if the car is an original HEI, you could connect a power wire from the
positive battery post directly to the bat-terminal on the HEI. You may have 
a wiring problem.
 
Do you have new spark plug wires? It's amazing how many strange problems 
bad wires can cause.

I too had a bouncing tach (but no misfires). Turned out a previous owner had
connected one of those capicitors that are supposed to prevent radio interference
to the tach wire.

The stock HEI is a very good distributor. I have a recurved unit with an accell
supercoil that i rev to 5500rpm without misfires. I heard (or actually read in
Car-Craft magazine) that the magnetic pickup is good for atleast 7500rpm and is
extremely accurate. The weak points in the HEI are the coil and the module, but
they are fine up to 5500rpm. Above 5500rpm a good coil (like the accell) and 
a custom module (like the MSD or hypertech) will do the trick.

Hope this helped

Markus  




----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 13:28:20 1994
Subject: Re:  HELP - Looking For Person Selling Old Car Ads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8190
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->  I heard there was someone on the net last week who had old car ads
->  for sale

Hi,

  I'm not the one who advertised, But I have some friends who vend old
auto ad's ( from old publications ) at auto flea markets.  Alice has
THOUSANDS of ad's.  I'll send you her address If you are interested.


Bill

All mine..

----------
Posted by: emory!genrad.com!wdp (William D. Poudrier)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 13:35:40 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy casting numbers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8191
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>I am looking for some info on the motley parts of an engine that is in my
>'84 Z28....
>
>The heads have:
>	passenger side: "C 20 79", "3888888", "3GM", "Made in Mexico" yak! 
>	driver side: "E 43", "3888888", "GM 40"
>
>The block:
>	"110134020", "T0205CGC", "T26", "CONV2", "L21", "70", "3970014"
>
>What do all of those numbers mean?  I assume that "3888888" and "3970014" are
>the casting numbers.  Does anyone have a casting book lying around?  Are the
>"C20", "E43", and "T26" date codes?  What about "L21"?  Any comments on the
>rest of the numbers?
>
>Oh- it's a 2-bolt 350, possibly a marine.
>
>thanks for the input!
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)

I don't have any casting book near by but I do have my number ID book.
You are correct with the casting number part. The C 20 79 would
be the casting date on the heads, March 20, 1979.

110134020, if this was this on the engine ID pad it would have been
part of the original cars VIN. T0205CGC, T=Tonawanda engine plant,
0205=machined on Feb 5, CGC was the code used in 1971 for a 350.
Rated at 245HP, 8.5:1 compression, 2 barrel, used in full size Chevy,
Chevelle, Camaro, Nova, Monte Carlo and used a manual trans, TH350
or PG depending on original car.
L21 70 looks to be the casting date, Dec 21, 1970.

   Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

   47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
   69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
   73 Camaro LT

----------
Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr  6 13:44:40 1994
Subject: Re: Painting car wo/paint booth legal?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8192
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>:    I was "thumbing" through an article in Peterson's Four Wheel and Offroad
>: yesterday that pertained to automotive painting. It made the statement that
>: painting a vehicle outside of a paint booth is illegal in most states. That's
>: news to me. Anyone ever hear this before? 
>
>I'm going to presume that that referred to commercial painting only
>
>I know far too many people, including my husband, who paint without a booth
>on their own property on their cars

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say something that might be incorrect,
but I was under the assumption that laws regarding painting in booths only
are dependent on 2 factors:
	1) the type of paint used
	2) the city, state that you are painting in

For example, I believe that California has banned certain kinds of paints 
(don't ask me which ones) that are legal to shoot in other parts of the
country.

Comments?

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 00:43:45 1994
Subject: T350 governor tips
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8193
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 Thanks for that very enlightening article!
                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 00:59:41 1994
Subject: Throttle blade cleanup
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8194
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-> How can a typical throttle blade be cleaned up to flow more air?  I'm
-> assuming the attaching screws can be filed down, but what (if any)
-> improvements can be made to the edges without sacrificing
-> controllability at small throttle openings?

 David Vizard has a whole chapter on carb mods in his Pinto book.  Even
on an engine as severely undercarbed as the 2000, filing the screws and
releiving the throttle shaft were worth single-digit CFM increases.
Probably even less on your throttle body.

 Unless you can get some reputable airflow figures to say otherwise, I'd
put this in the "just for looks" category.
                                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 01:14:16 1994
Subject: Trnas Brake questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8195
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	I tagged this to another message reply, but I'd like to restate
	it.
	Has anyone out there used a trans Brake on a TH350?
	Whose brake did you use
	How well did the brake work. Does it "roll" or "rock" at the line?
	Did the trans hold up or did you rebuild it 2-3 times a year
	What mods did you do to the trans to make it last using the brake?

	I dont want the weight of a TH400
	and I see too many guys rebuilding their powerglides 2-3 times
	a year (too much maintenance for me)

	Thanks for your input


--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com


----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 01:29:14 1994
Subject: Reply to Re: Reply to Spherical Rotary Valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8196
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-> What about going from the oval track cars turning 10k to the formula
-> one cars turning like 14k so whats you problem?

 Ayup, some do.  But they're not bolting a set of whoopee snake-oil
Miracle Heads and turning a stock 5.0 short block to 10,000 RPM either.

 Like I said.  You buy the heads and put them on your car, I'll be happy
to do strip and dyno testing.  Bring a big bucket for when the engine
auto-disassembles at 10,000 RPM.
                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 01:38:24 1994
Subject: oil pressure pump?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Hi...I was wondering if anyone had ever used a pump that 
builds up the crankcase pressure before starting. I know
that such a device would greatly prolong the life of the
engine, and I'm sure someone out there must know what I'm
talking about. 
     If someone can mail me some details or experiences they
have had building or using such a device, I'd appreciate it!

				--Erik
				emueller@eden.rutgers.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!emueller (Erik Mueller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 12:57:46 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-14*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/07    1:30-2:30PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/07    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/07    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/07   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
MotoWorld                             04/08    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS, SAN DIEGO (T)         04/08    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Movie: Cannonball Run II              04/08   11:30AM-12:50PM   HBO
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (T) 04/08    1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/08    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
MotoWorld II                          04/08    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
MotoWorld II                          04/09    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 04/09    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (EFI conversion)   04/09    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             04/09    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (L)                 04/09    2:00-4:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/09    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/09    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/09    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/09    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (T)            04/09    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             04/09    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
SpeedWeek                             04/09    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN
USAC, SN THUNDER, VENTURA (L)         04/09    8:30-10:30PM     ESPN
Motoworld                             04/10    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (T)                 04/10    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             04/10    5:30-6:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/10    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/10    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Darrell Gwynn)   04/10    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (L)          04/10    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/10    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           04/10   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Road To The Indy 500                  04/10    12:30-1:00PM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              04/10    1:00-4:30PM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Bob Kinser)  04/10    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Darrell Gwynn)   04/10    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/10    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/10    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
NASCAR Shop Talk                      04/10    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, PHOENIX (L)                  04/10    5:00-7:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (L)          04/10    5:00-5:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (L)        04/10    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Bob Kinser)  04/10    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (EFI conversion)   04/10    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Darrell Gwynn)   04/10    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/10    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           04/10    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      04/10    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Bob Kinser)  04/10   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    04/11    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
AMA, 250CC SUPERCROSS, DAYTONA (T)    04/11    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/11    2:00-2:30AM      TNN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (T)        04/11    2:30-3:00AM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (T)              04/11    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
SNOWMOBILE RACING (T)                 04/11    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
AIR RACING, PHOENIX 500 (T)           04/11    7:30-8:30PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/11    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Legends Of The Brickyard (1975)       04/12    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Race For Heroes (Johnny Rutherford)   04/12    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Legends Of The Brickyard (1976)       04/12    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
USAC, SN THUNDER, VENTURA (T)         04/12    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Motorcycle Racing Preview             04/12    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Movie: Cannonball Run II              04/12    4:30-5:50PM      HBO
Power Wheels                          04/12    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          04/12   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed                      04/13    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN2
Power Wheels                          04/13    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed                      04/13   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (T)              04/14    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
POWERBOAT RACING, KEY WEST (T)        04/14    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/14    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
Power Wheels                          04/14    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
For Race Fans Only                    04/14    7:00-8:00PM      QVC
MotorWeek (Windstar)                  04/14    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/14    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/14   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/15    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld II                          04/15    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING, SEATTLE (T)     04/16    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NASCAR MODIFIEDS, N. WILKESBORO (L)   04/16    1:00PM           ESPN
SN THUNDER, VENTURA (L)               04/16    8:30PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, PACIFIC, OKAYAMA (SD)      04/17    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
N Bonnett's Winners (Joe Gibbs)       04/17    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (L)        04/17    1:00PM           ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Joe Gibbs)       04/17    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, LONG BEACH (L)               04/17    4:00-6:00PM      ABC
IMSA, ATLANTA GRAND PRIX (SD)         04/17    5:00PM           ESPN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/19    1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
DRAG RACING (?)                       04/19    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
DRAG RACING (?)                       04/21    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/21    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/21    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/21   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/22    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
NASCAR DASH SERIES, MARTINSVILLE (L)  04/23    2:00PM           ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Warren Johnson)  04/24    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (L)         04/24    12:00PM          ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Warren Johnson)  04/24    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS (?)          04/24    tba              tba
ASA, DENVER (L)                       04/24    3:00-5:00PM      TNN
SN THUNDER, VENTURA (L)               04/25    12:30AM          ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/25    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/28    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/28    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/28    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
DRAG RACING (?)                       04/28    7:30-8:30PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/28    8:30-9:00PM      HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/28    9:00-10:00PM     HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/28    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/28   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
ARCA, TALLADEGA (L)                   04/30    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, ROUGEMONT (L)               04/30    5:00-7:30PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, SAN MARINO (L)             05/01    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON SELECT, CHARLOTTE (L)         05/01    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            05/01    2:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, LOUDON (?)                  05/07    tba              tba
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, SONOMA (L)          05/14    4:30PM           ESPN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, POLE DAY (L) 05/14    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, MONACO (L)                 05/15    9:20AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
ASA, TOLEDO (L)                       05/15    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, SEARS POINT (L)          05/15    4:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (T)               05/15    tba              ABC
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 2ND DAY (L)  05/15    3:00PM       ESPN,TSN
NHRA, MID-SOUTH NATIONALS (?)         05/15    tba              tba
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/18   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/19   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/20   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, THE WINSTON, CHARLOTTE(L)05/21    tba              TNN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 3RD DAY (L)  05/21    5;00PM       ESPN,TSN
BUSCH GN, NAZARETH (?)                05/22    tba              tba
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 4TH DAY (L)  05/22    4:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, ENGLISHTOWN (?)      05/22    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, CHARLOTTE (?)               05/28    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, SPAIN (L)                  05/29    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
INDIANAPOLIS 500 (L)                  05/29   11:00AM-3:30PM    ABC
WINSTON CUP, CHARLOTTE (L)            05/29    5:00PM           TBS
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/01   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/02   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/03   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (L)                   06/04    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (L)                06/05    12:10PM          TNN
INDYCAR, MILWAUKEE (L)                06/05    4:00-6:00PM      ABC
BUSCH GN, MYRTLE BEACH (?)            06/11    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    2:00-4:00PM  ESPN,CBC
INDYCAR, DETROIT (L)                  06/12    2:00-4:30PM      ABC
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               06/12    12:30PM          TNN
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (T)                06/12    tba              ABC
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, KIRKERSVILLE(?)06/12    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 13:27:26 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy TH-350 shift points
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|> > 
|> > > on Warwick wrote:
|> > >>	I have a TH-350 sitting behind a Chevy 350 in my project
|> > >> truck. I have a problem in that the trans. shifts to taller gears
|> > >> way too soon (the motor dosen't get to rev very high at all in L1
|> > >> or L2).
|> > >
|> > >
|> > > I was going to reply to Jon directly but I thought that the answer
|> > > might be of general interest so I decided to post it instead.
|> > 
|> > ( excellent trans description deleted )
|> > 
|> > That was a very good post, Bob. I have saved it for future use.
|> > 
|> 	I am the guy that Bob wrote his excellent trans. post to and
|> I have just called B&M in Calif. They said the FEDS. made them stop
|> building the governor shift point modification kits because it didn't
|> comply with the emissions laws. 
|> 	He said I could use a governor out of a Camaro or Vette to 
|> achieve higher shift points but it would be kind of hit or miss for
|> my application ('72 Suburban 4x4). After I told him that the WOT
|> shift points are acceptable, it is just that the partial throttle
|> shifts that are too soon, he suggested a simple tweaking of the 
|> adjustable vaccuum modulator. I was told that 3 or 4 turns of the 
|> tiny screw inside the vaccuum port would cure my ills. ...We'll see.

B&M sells a kit that contains a range (6) weights and 6 light to heavy
springs that can be used to tune the governer to shift *exactly* how
you want.  Very good instructions and they even supply new weight pivot
axles that are secured with E clips. Much better than the original GM
stamped "nails".  And, if you dont like the mod you can put all the
original parts back in so there's no worry about a permanent goof.

$0.02

EricY

----------
Posted by: (EricY)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 20:00:03 1994
Subject: Clutch problem/recommendations?
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Well guys, I hope you can figure this one out for me:

I have a '69 Mach I with a 351W backed by a Toploader 4 speed and a 3.50
T-lok 9" rear.  My main problem is that I'm frying throw-out bearings every
3-4 months.  The bearings seem to fit in nicely, the input spline on the
transmission _looks_ OK, the pilot bushing was tough to see, but may be a bit
out-of-round.  I don't ride around with my foot on the clutch, and only
occasionally bark the tires through the gears ;).

I have only found 1 bearing listed for all Ford applications (small block ->
428), but two types -- one with a grease fitting and one 'packed for life' (in
my case 4 months).  Which is better, and how am I supposed to grease it???

Anyway, I'm planning on replacing the clutch, pressure plate, etc. soon, and
was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on product lines (Motorsport,
Ram, McCleod, etc.) that'll hold up to 'heavy-duty' street use & any comments
as to why my throw-out bearings are throwing-up?

Thanks for any advice/help.

-Jeff
jpd3@Lehigh.edu

'69 Mach I
'89 T-bird SC

----------
Posted by: emory!Lehigh.EDU!jpd3 (Jeff Dillman)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 20:12:58 1994
Subject: ignition timing 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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	Dear Rodders,

	I wondered if some knowledgeable ignition guy could take a 
few minutes and respond to some burning questions (in MY mind anyway).
	
	My application: 
		
		'72 suburban 4x4
		Carter AFB 625 cfm
		Edelbrock Performer manifold
		Accel HEI distributor and super coil
		Chevy 350 block bored .030 over
		stock (reworked) heads
		Summit Cam 206deg. at .050 lift; 440intake; 442exhaust
		power steering and brakes
		auto trans.
		a/c

	The motor is freshly rebuilt (450 miles) and is running
great. The idle is silky smooth. The base timing (idle speed and no
vaccuum advance) is advanced 8deg.
	I want to advance the timing (I think) so that the throttle
response will be quicker in the lower RPM range. 
	What I need to know, is how much advance is enough, and how 
much is too much (both for idle quality and high RPM performance). 
That's kind of a general question, but I think you know what I mean.

			Thanks for any help you can supply,

					Jon Warwick

		
		
			

----------
Posted by: emory!daisy.wes.army.mil!warwick (Jon Warwick)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr  7 20:25:39 1994
Subject: rotary valve
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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A week or so ago there was some mail regarding the Coates Engine
Manufacturing company which, evidently, manufactures rotary valve
cylinder heads.  Does anyone have a phone number, or address?
Thanks,
George

----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr  8 03:39:55 1994
Subject: Re: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>Now, my questions:  Do those symptoms/causes sound reasonable?  (I'm going to
>go check out the vacuum advance in a few minutes at lunch.  Besides, they are
>cheap.)  Have I missed anything?  On the MSD, I know it replaces the module and
>that is where I have heard the HEI's real problems are, but I was wondering
>about the magnetic pickup in the unit.  I've heard they are quite reliable up
>to high RPMs, but I wanted to hear from some knowledgable people about them too
>if anyone can give me information on their reliability/any tech info that I
>may find useful about the magnetic pickups in the HEI (such as how high of
>an RPM it is reliable to.)  My coil seems to be ok (I have 2 of them and it
>does the same with both.)
>
>Oh, comments/ideas/anything else are always welcome/wanted.  Thanks!!!
>
>-- Steve
>stm0@gte.com
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0

Steve,

I have seen the wires to the pick-up in the distributor break and cuase strange
things to happen.  Because these wires move with the vacuum advance, so the car
may run fine with vacuum but when you put your foot in it the wire becomes
disconnected causing misfires.

Troy


----------
Posted by: EILAND 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr  8 12:49:44 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>	I wondered if some knowledgeable ignition guy could take a 
>few minutes and respond to some burning questions (in MY mind anyway).
>	
>	My application: 
>		
>		'72 suburban 4x4
>		Carter AFB 625 cfm
>		Edelbrock Performer manifold
>		Accel HEI distributor and super coil
>		Chevy 350 block bored .030 over
>		stock (reworked) heads
>		Summit Cam 206deg. at .050 lift; 440intake; 442exhaust
>		power steering and brakes
>		auto trans.
>		a/c
>
>	The motor is freshly rebuilt (450 miles) and is running
>great. The idle is silky smooth. The base timing (idle speed and no
>vaccuum advance) is advanced 8deg.
>	I want to advance the timing (I think) so that the throttle
>response will be quicker in the lower RPM range. 
>	What I need to know, is how much advance is enough, and how 
>much is too much (both for idle quality and high RPM performance). 
>That's kind of a general question, but I think you know what I mean.
>
>			Thanks for any help you can supply,
>
>					Jon Warwick

Yes, a more aggressive ignition advance curve will improve throttle response,
mileage and lessen plug fouling.
 
I have a Chevy 350 in a Camaro that is simular to your engine. I run a slightly
bigger cam (214/224 dur, 442/462 lift), performer intake and a Holley carb.

I run an almost stock HEI. The only mods are a recurved advance and an Accell
supercoil.

My base timing is 17dgr @ idle (no vacuum). It then starts to rise at 1000rpm,
and reaches maximum of 39dgr @ 2500rpm. 

Idle, BTW, is 600rpm.

You will need custom springs and weights in order to run that much base timing
without pinging at high rpm.

I use whatever passes for gasoline without any pinging, and the engine runs great.

Hope this was of some help.

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr  8 13:09:14 1994
Subject: Re: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Thanks for all the ideas on this problem.  I've tried a few things, and it
seems to have gotten a little better, but it still randomly misfires once
in a while.  Here's what I have replaced/checked so far:

	Vaccuum pot for vaccuum advance - new (old was questionable)
	Module - pirated one from another dist I had around
	Wires from module to cap - new
	Condenser - new
	Checked out magnetic pickup - wires ok

When fooling around with it, we've kinda nailed it down to the coil at
this point, so I'll be replacing that this afternoon.  I'm also going
to be putting in the MSD unit (it came yesterday), new 'Spiro Core' Taylor
wires, new plugs, new cap & rotor.  So, basically everything is new (except
the dist. housing and mag pickup itself.)  If that doesn't work, I've
got 2 other distributors laying around, and one of them will get dropped
in next.  If that doesn't work, it's to the bone-yard with the whole car... :) 

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  8 13:57:57 1994
Subject: Price For Olds 442
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Hi All,

I was wondering if I could get a few opinions on a good price for
a 1969 Olds 442.  The body is in good condition (one repaint), interior is 
pristine for it's age and except for the engine it is mechanically pretty
sound.  

The drawback is that the car sat in an unheated garage for six or seven years
and has a cracked block (its the 10.5:1 455), apparently a hot crack in the
water jacket.  Behind it is the original Hurst Four Speed.  

What would be a fair price for this considering the engine work required?  And
what would anyone guess the price for either a 1969 455 Block or the complete
engine?

Thanks again,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr  8 14:02:02 1994
Subject: Re: oil pressure pump?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article <9pw5!6h@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

   Hi...I was wondering if anyone had ever used a pump that 
   builds up the crankcase pressure before starting. I know
   that such a device would greatly prolong the life of the
   engine, and I'm sure someone out there must know what I'm
   talking about. 
				   --Erik
Eric and others,

MUCH too much has been made of the wear patterns at engine start up.

This wasn't a problem until some advertising campaign told people 
that it was.  Now they believe it!  Ahhh... the free market system.

The engineers that design the engines know very well how to get the 
greatest advantage from the oils and how to minimize the wear.  I have
personally torn down several engines, one of which had been sitting
under a tarp in a parking lot for 6 months.  Every one of those engines
had oil in the bearings.  I spent a few years as a mechanic and have
seen LOTS of high mileage cars with great running engines.  None of
those high mileage engines had the benefit of a pre-oiler (cripe, some
of them hadn't the advantage of modern multi-viscosity detergent oil)
Yet every one of those high mileage cars  had the advantage of regular, 
frequent oil changes and other preventive maintenance.

In my opinion there is *NOTHING* better for your engine than keeping it
filled with clean oil.  I don't believe there is an engine made today that
won't go well over 100,000 miles with nothing more than regular preventive
maintenance.  

Ask yourself how long you want to prolong the life of your engine and
WHY?  If you REALLY want to spend a lot of money in the hopes that
several years later some prospective buyer will pay you primium money for
your high mileage car then go right ahead and do it.  If I were looking
at your car though, I'd derate the price substantially for mileage over
100,000 and wouldn't even consider it if it were over 200,000, and I 
suspect more than 90% of the rest of the buyers would too.

My current fleet:
1980 Dodge 1 ton van  w/318   235,000 miles
1977 Chevy Monte Carlo w/350  137,000 miles
1986 Buick Skyhawk   w/2.0L   128,000 miles

I'm currently trying to get a guy to lower his price on a very nice
1982 Buick Park Avenue.  It's a real cream puff and it runs very well,
but it has 145,000 mile on it and he hasn't been able to sell it in 
at least a month.
--
Val Breault - N8OEF - vbreault@gmr.com   \      /|
Instrumentation dept  GM NAO R&D Center   \    / |
My opinions are not necessarily those of   \  /__|
GMR nor of the General Motors Corporation   \/   |___

----------
Posted by: emory!rinhp750.gmr.com!vbreault (Val Breault)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 03:11:50 1994
Subject: Stuff for Sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I decided to do a 427 block with 428 crank engine instead of the 428SCJ I was 
gonna do. It's going to take more money than I had planned, so I'm gonna sell
a few bits and pieces I have laying around. I'm putting them up here first and
then when the HEMMINGS lag time is over they'll be in there.

1 C7ME-A 428FE block Std. with one sleeve $500.00
1 set C3AE Heads complete with 1.94/1.60 valves, HP springs, Chromolly retainers
       Crane Roller Rockers, ARP 3/8" studs and some mild port clean-up $200.00
2 Sets of 351 Boss rods with 1 set std. pistons  $100.00
1 427 Nodular Iron Crank std./std. $350.00
1 3spd./overdrive tranni for early Galaxie Small Block $200.00
1 set '68 Cougar XR-7 6.5L fender emblems $100.00
1 Complete AC setup for '67-'68 Cougar $300.00
1 set '68 Cougar hubcaps $100.00
'67 XR-7 console clock Make Offer
Instrument Panel and dash front for '68 Cougar, NOT XR-7  $50.00
'68 XR-7 Speedometer $25.00
Deluxe Tinted Glass for '68 Galaxie XL-GT, except windsheild $500.00
1 set of '64 Fairlane 500 fender scripts $75.00

Everything is negotiable, trades possible, Prices do not include shipping!

Millam

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 03:31:27 1994
Subject: RE: Clutch problem/recommendations?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>I have a '69 Mach I with a 351W backed by a Toploader 4 speed and a 3.50
>T-lok 9" rear.  My main problem is that I'm frying throw-out bearings every
>3-4 months.  The bearings seem to fit in nicely, the input spline on the
>transmission _looks_ OK, the pilot bushing was tough to see, but may be a bit
>out-of-round.  I don't ride around with my foot on the clutch, and only
>occasionally bark the tires through the gears ;).

One possibility is that when the engine torques to one side the clutch fork 
goes out of positions and puts a twisting force on the throw-out bearing.  
This could be due to weak or broken motormounts - most noteably on the 
driver's side.

Also do you have all the return springs in place?

I had a condition in which the clutch pedal had a little "snag" about half 
way through its travel - this was due to a broken clutch fork (it cracked 
right at the pivot ball).

As I found out after the repair - a clutch should be absolutly smooth.  The 
feel in the clutch should not change much once the engine is running and 
under a load.  All the above applies mostly to Chevy so YMMV.


>Anyway, I'm planning on replacing the clutch, pressure plate, etc. soon, and
>was wondering if anyone has any recommendations on product lines (Motorsport,
>Ram, McCleod, etc.) that'll hold up to 'heavy-duty' street use & any comments
>as to why my throw-out bearings are throwing-up?

Personally, I replaced the stock cast iron flywheel on my truck with a 
30lbs steel one and install a centerforce dual friction clutch.  The first 
flywheel I got was a Hayes / Mr. Gasket.  When installed the bolts on the 
flywheel hit the springs on the clutch (yes, I had it right side out).  
So I called Mr. Gasket.  They said machine (counter sink) the screws until 
they don't hit.  The machine shop said they would have to take 1/3 the 
thickness of the center section out...and therefor would not guarantee the 
safety of the flywheel.  I contacted Midway industries, they told me that 
some manufacturers make "cheaper" or "thinner" flywheels.  The problem with 
the thinner flywheels, other than what I mentioned, is that many clutch 
systems do not have enough adjustment in them to compensate.  This is 
especially true for hydraulic clutches.  My understanding is this, to get a 
30 lbs flywheel you can either back cut on the engine side of the flywheel 
or remove more material on the tranny side.  Since you have to machine the 
tranny side anyway...  So basically the brand new flywheel is the 
equivalent of a well worn flywheel.  This brings the clutch disk closer to 
the crankshaft... and therefor closer to the bolts on the crankshaft.  A 
racing clutch - with out the shock absorbing springs (whatever they are 
called) would have fit.

So I return the flywheel and got a Mclead.  This flywheel fit perfectly.  
All edges were radiused (the Hayes had square cuts).  And the surface 
finish was almost polished in some area - not the friction surface.  About 
100% better build quality.

Hayes flywheel ~$150 mail order
Mcleod flywheel ~$240 from retail store ( I needed it fast and the correct 
part).

As for the Center Force clutch.  Seems to work fine.  For the abuse I give 
it (too large of tires and not enough gears) it seems to hold up well.  It 
does seem to grab and the first time I tried moving the truck after the 
install I stalled it a few times.  Now I'm used to it - makes it feel like 
all my other cars have slipping clutches....

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 04:47:22 1994
Subject: RE: ignition timing 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8210
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>	I want to advance the timing (I think) so that the throttle
>response will be quicker in the lower RPM range. 
>	What I need to know, is how much advance is enough, and how 
>much is too much (both for idle quality and high RPM performance). 
>That's kind of a general question, but I think you know what I mean.

The quick answer would be to advance the timing until pinging sets in.

>From net wisdom I would suggest the ultimate timing set-up would be:

Disconnect the vacuum advance.
Take notes:
Determine what you timing is at the following rpm's
1000,1500,2000,2500,3000,3500,4000 

Now determine how much advance is required for maximum acceloration.
Do a couple full throttle acceloration runs through narrow rpm ranges.
Have the truck fully loaded.  On the same stretch of road time yourself 
from 1500-2500 to determine the best advance at 2000rpm.
from 2000-3000 to determine the best advance at 2500rpm...
and so on.  Note any pinging and the rpm the pinging happens at.

1st gear is a little tough - things happen too fast and wheel spin may be a 
factor.  2nd gear might be better.

For the low rpm areas timing is a little subjective - ie seat of the pants. 
 I suspect the low rpm advance will be determined by the required mid-rpm 
curve.  After all is said and done you'll have the ideal advance curve for 
your motor combo.  You should also be able to tell where pinging would 
occur.  Take this to a reputable shop and have them set the curve 
appropirately.  Also have an adjustable vacuum advance installed - a proper 
set-up would allow adjustments in both sensativity and total vacuum advance
.  Its my understanding that the more vacuum advance the better, until the 
car starts pinging....

Whats net wisdom on the above?
 
Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 05:00:09 1994
Subject: TH700R4+SB350 wanted in SF Bay Area
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I'm looking for a small block Chevy (282->350), a TH700R4 tranny, drive
shaft and third member to lever into a 1972 AMG Postal Jeep.  Prefer source
in the SF Bay Area.

----------
Posted by: emory!lbl.gov!jskromer (Steve "Jack " Kromer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 05:11:25 1994
Subject: Re: oil pressure pump?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8212
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In article <9pw5!6h@dixie.com> The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
:>Hi...I was wondering if anyone had ever used a pump that 
:>builds up the crankcase pressure before starting. I know
:>that such a device would greatly prolong the life of the
:>engine, and I'm sure someone out there must know what I'm
:>talking about. 

	You "know that such a device would greatly prolong the life of the
engine", huh?

	Care to tell us how?

	I think you've been watching/listening to too many Slick 50/Castrol
Syntec commercials.

	There's a film of oil on all the normally lubricated parts of the
motor at startup.  As long as you wait half a minute for oil pressure to
come up everywhere before you load the motor, you have nothing to worry about.
Odds are, your motor will outlive the rest of the car if you do this little
thing, which costs you only 30 seconds at each startup.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 05:23:10 1994
Subject: Ford Custom Car Cavalcade
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Does anyone have any old literature on the Ford Custom Car Cavalcade
from 1962-1964 or thereabouts?

In case you don't go back that far, Ford jumped on the "Kustom"
bandwagon with a fleet of show cars in the late fifties(?) or early
sixties.  Rather than the usual 'dream cars' from the Ford sylists,
these were production Fords with custom body work from the various
custom shops around the country.

There were cars from George Barris, Gene Winfield, Daryl Starbird,
Bill Cushenberry, and the Alexander brothers, as I recall.

I'm particularly interested in pictures of the '63 Galaxie, since
I have one.

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 05:40:20 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing 
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In article <8fx5pzp@dixie.com> you wrote:


: 	Dear Rodders,

: 	I wondered if some knowledgeable ignition guy could take a 
: few minutes and respond to some burning questions (in MY mind anyway).
: 	
: 	My application: 
: 		
: 		'72 suburban 4x4
: 		Carter AFB 625 cfm
: 		Edelbrock Performer manifold
: 		Accel HEI distributor and super coil
: 		Chevy 350 block bored .030 over
: 		stock (reworked) heads
: 		Summit Cam 206deg. at .050 lift; 440intake; 442exhaust
: 		power steering and brakes
: 		auto trans.
: 		a/c

: 	The motor is freshly rebuilt (450 miles) and is running
: great. The idle is silky smooth. The base timing (idle speed and no
: vaccuum advance) is advanced 8deg.
: 	I want to advance the timing (I think) so that the throttle
: response will be quicker in the lower RPM range. 
: 	What I need to know, is how much advance is enough, and how 
: much is too much (both for idle quality and high RPM performance). 
: That's kind of a general question, but I think you know what I mean.

: 			Thanks for any help you can supply,

: 					Jon Warwick

I don't work with Chevys a lot, but I think the general idea is to have
around 35-38 BTDC max mechanical advance. You can dial this in to any RPM
you want. I have mine set to 35 BTDC at idle. Great throttle response...

Mind you to do that you might have to recurve the dist, etc. - that's what
I did. Anyways, try setting your advance to let's say 35 BTDC at 2500RPM.

This should still give you not too much advance at idle so you'd be able
to use the stock distributor setup and still get manageable starting.

I hope this helps out a little bit!

-Dariusz

----------
Posted by: Dariusz S Piatkowski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 05:48:57 1994
Subject: RE: Price For Olds 442
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>What would be a fair price for this considering the engine work required?  And
>what would anyone guess the price for either a 1969 455 Block or the complete
>engine?

If you have to find a '69 motor (did they make 455's in '69   I thought '70
) you might take quite a while to find the right casting number.  Here's a 
hint though: contrary to popular belief all 455's in that time period had 
the same internals - even the Stage I motors were the same short block.

If you decide to buy the car, remove the engine to determine how bad the 
leak is.  Many engines have freeze plugs at the back of the block and maybe 
you'll get lucky.

As for prices - your guess is as good as mine.  Depending on the rarity I 
would suspect the car is not worth more than a couple $1000.  If the car is 
in really good / great condition (repaint if done incorrectly actually 
hurts value) consider the engine a $2000 loss - by the time you rebuild it 
it'll eat $2000.  Check for rust and bondo (ie. use a magnet)

Thanks again,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 05:58:51 1994
Subject: MoPar questions from new guy
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I've always wondered about the value of a pre-oiler,  I was relieved to have my 
suspicions validated by a credible opinion.

The April issue (hmm,  no it has photos and looks like a legit story) of 
Popular Hot Rodding shows a machine that relieves metallurgical stress via 
vibration at near resonance.  This sounds pretty good, any opinions on the 
validity or value of the process?

The project in the garage is a '47 Dodge pu that is to get heavy duty 4x4 
underpinnings.  Is this a good arena to ask for help?  Is there a 4x4 
service/alt/rec?

Specifically, I am about to jig up the frame and will soon be looking for Dana 
60's front and rear to obtain.  It is a shorter track than most applications 
apparently so I'll be looking for the vehicle so equipped that has the shortest 
track.  Is there anything narrower than 70's (& 80's?) Dodge W350's?  I scanned 
an article that was phrased in such a way as to leave me with the impression 
that any Dana/Spicer could be modified to reverse rotation, any idea on the 
truth of this?  I expect to
be shoehorning in a 440 with a low-end and broad torque curve.  What is the best 
way to _get_ this done (I'm not an engine guy)?  I want lots of gear and I am 
looking at a torque splitter and a 435 versus a six speed.  Comments?  The 
Centerforce clutch advertising is appealing - any one know if it lives up to 
it's claims?

Thanks, everyone.

--
-S
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Scot Stockton
TRW                                      
Space & Electronics Group
stockton@iceland.etdesg.trw.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~

----------
Posted by: Scot Stockton 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 06:05:45 1994
Subject: Re: aluminum rods
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In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> > column.  But tensile isn't everything - 7-series alloys are brittle and
> > prone to cracking; 2-series alloys (copper, instead of sand) are
> > ductile, that is, they will bend without breaking.
> 
> I would not have thought that the tensile loads are the cause of rod failure
> in most cases, although there is a fair amount of tension at the top of the
> exhaust stroke. Anyone know the relative loads (tension vs compression)
> offhand?

The greatest load on a rod, in a 4 stroke, is during the TDC between
ex and in. It can be up to 20 times the power load in a low compression
high speed case.

**BUT**, as long as the cap stays on, it is a tention load, and there
fore unconditionaly stable. No nasty buckeling modes. In the power
and exhaust stroke though the rod is under compression load, and beaming
load from inertia. The beaming will move it out of collum and lower
the compressive colapse point. Note that this is not a compressive
strength failure, but a failure in rigidity under load.

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 12:29:06 1994
Subject: Camaro project w/son
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 Folks,

 I recently purchased a 1979 Camaro 250 six, turbo 350 trans.
 Its a Father Son project. He's 16 and getting into cars.
 The project was an idea to keep him busy because lack of things to do.
 My question, what modifications would we have to do to bolt a 350 chev in?
 I'm new at this thing, but it might be worth it... for us.
 Help appreciated.

 thanks,
 Steve

----------
Posted by: emory!lsid.hp.com!stevew (Steve White)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr  9 17:46:38 1994
Subject: Re: S-10 DragTruck
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In article  you wrote:

: >  A Friend of mine has the remains of an 85 or 86 S-10 4wd. The frams is
: >sound, and the body needs some work but he's willing to part with it for
: >$350(to me :> ). I'm trying to put together a plan to turn it into a weekend
: >racer for one of the local tracks here in Washington(SIR or Bremerton).

: Race only?  O.K.
  Probably race only, but streetable enough that I can cruise it if I want
to. 

: >  My plan so far is to build the 350 4-bolt main block I have using PAW's
: >rebuild kit(forged pistons, etc.) and one of the Edelbrock matched
: >Intake/Cam/Carb sets like the 7101 combination.

: The only problem with mass-production machine shops is you don't know 
: exactly what your getting.  I bet a local shop could do a better job and 
: really work with you on what you want/need/ can afford.  Most machine shops 
: (at least in my experience the hi - po ones) don't mind you paying / getting 
: the parts so you can save on that end.

  That's true, I am farily close to Cope Brothers(Derek Cope of NASCAR fame)
and several other decent machine shops in the area. I really should drop by
'em and see what's affordable. Also, if something goes wrong with their
parts I have a person to go to, not a telephone number.


: Depending on what you do to the engine a lot of fitting, assembling, etc is 
: involved.  And then when every thing fits and is polished etc. and only 
: then do you balance the assebly.

  I've been involved with a couple of 350 and 400 rebuilds so I know what's
involved here and have friends who can help(which is the important part :> )

: Contact Trans-dapt for the mounting kits, contact S&W for the ladder bar 
: setups (or Morrison or Alston).  Steel tubs could be welded - a cover over 
: the bed will keep everything looking clean.

  I have a local performance store that has the SB motor mounts for the S-10
for $99. For ladderbar setup I have Art Morrison and Bob Lewis racecars in
the area. I've been to the Morrison shop and it's a really cool place! I
plan on a bed cover to hide all of the modifications - I'll have to cut up
part of the floor to fit the shock towers into it.

: >  The transmission will be a TH350, possibly with a manual shift kit(had one
: >in my camaro and liked it). I don't know what to use for the rear-end, or
: >how much trouble  the driveline conversion would be. The motor mounts will
: >locate the TH350 right on the current crossmember so the shaft length should
: >be about right.

: For parts availabilty stick to Dana '60 (overkill) Ford 9" (very popular) 
: or chevy 12 bolt.  These are the easiest to find racing parts for.

  I was figuring For 9" since used ones are pretty cheap. I need to go and
measure the width of the S10 rearend again, I think it was 52" or 55" from
brakedrum to brakedrum. Maybe I can get lucky and find something that won't
have to be cut down to fit.

: Complete set up of a rear will run about $1200 almost everything new.  
: As long as you keep the power levels reasonable you could get away with 
: almost a stock set up (safety rules allowing).

  That's what I'm hopeing to do. I want to keep it low buck. The S10 weighs
about 3000lbs so it doesn't take too much HP to get it to move. The 350 will
probably be in the 300hp range when I get done with it.


: If you make the car a pure racecare you can save alot of hassle (ie. dump 
: the street equipement), but a trailer is a must.

  The S-10 doesn't have much in the way of street equipment :> With the 350
in it the computer will come out, and I will probably take out the stock
insterment and replace them with Autometer gauges.

: Also consider a roll cage to both stiffen the chassis and save your A$$.
: Seatbelts and seat follow right behind.

  Yes, a cage is also planned. I'm not sure how to do the rear bracing(from
the rear of the cage to the ladder bar mounts) without having to chop a hole
in the back window of the truck!


  Thanks much for the advice!

    Brian


--
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
  HELP! Someone stole my .sig!              |  cypress@hebron.connected.com
                                            |  finger me for PGP 2.3a key
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------

----------
Posted by: BCL 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr 10 01:47:42 1994
Subject: Camaro project w/son
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-> My question, what modifications would we have to do to bolt a 350
-> chev in?

 A 250 6 in a '79?  I didn't even know they made that!  It's been so
long since I've seen a straight six Camaro I don't remember if the frame
brackets are different, but it's no problem - the V8 mounts are common
as dirt and bolt right in if you need them.  The engine will match up to
the transmission fine.  You'll need the throttle and kickdown linkage
from a V8, V8 radiator hoses, new exhaust pipes, and you may have to
fiddle with some wiring depending on how much slack there is in the
harness.  It's as simple a job as you're likely to see.


-> Its a Father Son project. He's 16 and getting into cars.
-> The project was an idea to keep him busy because lack of things to
-> do.

 When my Dad "helped", I got to stand around and pass tools while he did
all the fun stuff.


 You want to keep him busy, have him prep the car for paint.  Four or
five weeks of sanding, filling (and refilling) dents, fighting rusty
bumper bolts, and the like will give him a serious respect for "it's
only one little dent" situations.


-> I'm new at this thing, but it might be worth it... for us.

 Oh, yes.
                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr 10 16:42:45 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

[deletia]

|> I have a Chevy 350 in a Camaro that is simular to your engine. I run a slightly
|> bigger cam (214/224 dur, 442/462 lift), performer intake and a Holley carb.
|> 
|> I run an almost stock HEI. The only mods are a recurved advance and an Accell
|> supercoil.
|> 
|> My base timing is 17dgr @ idle (no vacuum). It then starts to rise at 1000rpm,
|> and reaches maximum of 39dgr @ 2500rpm. 

What kind of compression are you guys running?
What octane fuel?  
I assume a 3.48" stroke length.

Regards,

EricY

----------
Posted by: (EricY)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 00:45:51 1994
Subject: RE: Re: ignition timing
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Sounds like an engine dyno would be the 'best' tool for setting up ignition
timing.  Since that is WAY out of my budget, a low buck,
tac/speedo/camcorder||computer dyno would be an ideal tool for the task. 
Didn't John say that a future issue of Performance Engineering mag would have a
radar based engine H.P. thing?  Is there anything we, the people can do to help
John get more issues out the door?  I think that P.E. is a GREAT mag, and would
hate to see it die.
- Steven Ciciora

[Yeah, send bushel-bags full of money.  I've been seriously broke but
things are looking up.  We'll be moving to Tn in the near future and after
that move is complete, I'll have another issue out.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: "Ciciora Steve" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 10:45:03 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing
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>|> I have a Chevy 350 in a Camaro that is simular to your engine. I run a slightly
>|> bigger cam (214/224 dur, 442/462 lift), performer intake and a Holley carb.
>|> 
>|> I run an almost stock HEI. The only mods are a recurved advance and an Accell
>|> supercoil.
>|> 
>|> My base timing is 17dgr @ idle (no vacuum). It then starts to rise at 1000rpm,
>|> and reaches maximum of 39dgr @ 2500rpm. 
>
>What kind of compression are you guys running?

Well, the engine left GM with 8.5:1 and 76cc smog heads. A couple of years ago
I rebuilt the engine, and found that replacement heads were cheaper than
having my smog units rebuilt. The replacement heads were 69cc size made in
1970. I estimate my new compression to about 9.5-9.8:1. I think my compression
gauge read 190 psi, but I'm not sure.
 
>What octane fuel?  

That's a tricky one. I guess your in the US? I'm in Europe, and we don't measure
octane the same way as you do. If memory serves me right, the US rating is
(R+M)/2 == (research+motor)/2. Over here, just the higher rating (don't remember
if it's motor or research that's the higher one) is given. I use 96 octane fuel,
which translates to roughly 90-91 US-octane. You would probably call it low-lead
regular. We also have low-lead premium (98 octane == ~93 US octane) and no lead
95 octane (87). 

>I assume a 3.48" stroke length.

That's right. 

>Regards,
>
>EricY

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 10:56:00 1994
Subject: Re: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
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Well, I finally figured it out, and of course it was the last thing for me
to check - the magnetic pickup in the distributor was the problem.  I haven't
totally torn it down yet, but it looks like it is all contained within a 
metal housing that is attached to the vacuum advance and the whole unit is
turned when the vacuum advance is activated.

What happened is that the innards of the unit (what I assume are the magnets
or whatever is in there) became disconnected from the housing and was floating
around, causing random firing/mis-firing.  The problem is that the wires are
located at the back of the distributor and kinda hard to see when it is in the
car, that's how I missed it (even when looking for loose/broken wires - I
didn't think to check that the housing came loose.)

When the vacuum would pull on the housing, only the outside would move, and
must have been pulling it into an 'ok' position where it would work reasonably.
When putting in the MSD unit, you have to take out the factory module, install
the MSD wires and route them out of the way.  When I did this, it got really
bad as re-routing the wires caused it to be in a position where it would only
run when the vacuum advance was pulling.  (Wouldn't you know, but I found this
out while cruising down the highway - every time I let off the gas, the
ignition cut out, but pressing on the gas enough to get vacuum advance again
restarted it - what a pain.)

Anyway, it's working now (with a whole new ignition to boot.)  Thanks for
all the ideas and comments, now I just have to figure out how to keep the
rear tires from melting off the car...

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 13:48:40 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing 
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Whoops!  something that I forgot to mention...

>I don't work with Chevys a lot, but I think the general idea is to have
>around 35-38 BTDC max mechanical advance. You can dial this in to any RPM
>you want. I have mine set to 35 BTDC at idle. Great throttle response...
>-Dariusz

This much advance will probably make you engine turn over more slowely when 
you try to start the car.  A momentary switch - that interrupts the 12V to 
the coil would allow you to disable the spark while you crank the motor - 
and once the motor is up to speed release the button and it should fire.

Or you could set the timing at the maximum that doesn't cause this problem 
and just dial in a more aggressive advance.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 14:06:05 1994
Subject: TDC
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I've installed a new crank hub(no harmonic balancer) and blower drive pulley
set up on a small block chevy and am wondering how to put the mark on the
crank hub for TDC??? I figure I'll just get some timing tape to stick on there
but don't know how to go about it!
 If it matters, engine is fully assembled. I know how to get cylinder #1 up to
the top of it's compression stroke, but how to determine 0 degree TDC? Will this
be a hit or miss thing?

Thanks.


-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
System Administrator                   |
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |

----------
Posted by: emory!resdgs1.er.usgs.gov!mfugazzo (Mark Fugazzotto)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 15:46:48 1994
Subject: RE: TDC
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>I've installed a new crank hub(no harmonic balancer) and blower drive pulley
>set up on a small block chevy and am wondering how to put the mark on the
>crank hub for TDC??? I figure I'll just get some timing tape to stick on there
>but don't know how to go about it!

Want to break a few crankshafts? (no harmonic balancer!!!)  Curious, why 
not a fluid damper or something similar?

Anyway

Your best bet is a degree wheel and a TDC finder.  Basically a TDC finder 
will thread down through the sparkplug hole.  Install the degree wheel and 
rotate the engine until the piston hits the TDC marker.  Note the degrees 
indicated on the wheel.  Now rotate the engine the other way until you hit 
the TDC marker again.  TDC is half way between the current reading and the 
earlier reading on the degree wheel.

It is possible to eyeball it + or - a few degrees by looking down the spark 
plug hole. Look for very small changes since any crank motion should should 
result in some piston motion.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 23:32:08 1994
Subject: Seats
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I have a 1974 Chevy Nova 4 door (yes, I know -- weld the two rear doors
closed) which has the bench seats in the front and rear.  I'd like to change
out the front bench for a pair of buckets and console and possibly change
out the rear for a pair of buckets.
Can anyone tell me what will fit without any major modifications?
Also would like to know how to disable the Seatbelt Interlock system which
was being used in 1974
 
Thanks in advance for any/all assistance.

----------
Posted by: emory!cfrvm.cfr.usf.edu!MORAN (Jim Moran)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 11 23:44:04 1994
Subject: High octain gas
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Hello.

In Australia, our pump leaded Super is getting worst 
and worst very fast! We are about 15 years behind the
USA in this regard, but it is now starting to hurt.

Current leaded Super is 96 octane, and will soon go
down to 94, because they are taking most of the lead 
out of it. Our super is about US$1.86 per gallon.

A small local airport sells BP 100 to the small
airoplanes, and to the drag racers. It is supposed
to have an octane of 104, and lots of lead in it.

At only US$2.26 per gallon, it is not that much more
than our pump super. So, every two weeks, I go down
with my two drums, and fill up.

I have been mixing this stuff about 1:2 or 1:1 with
pump super. The compression on my 390 is 10:1, and I 
run about 8 degrees init advance, and about 36 total.

As the quality of pump gas goes down, I will use more and
more of the BP 100. 

But I was wondering, If I run 100% of this stuff, will
the octain be too high for my current setup? Is there
any harm in running too high an octain, or too much lead?

Will I need to have more initial advance?


Thanks,

John Tsimbinos
South Australia
Australia
johnt@spri.levels.unisa.edu.au

----------
Posted by: emory!spri.levels.unisa.edu.au!johnt (John Tsimbinos)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 12 00:45:38 1994
Subject: Chevy manual tranny questions
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I just bought a 14 ft Chevy Step-Van with a 350 engine and a 4 speed
manual tranny.  The component plate lists the tranny as P/N M20502,
Option LS9501.  (is this a top loader?) Of course, I immediately had to 
open the tranny.  The problems were that the thing would occasionally
engage two gears at once and it would occasionally not go into 2nd or
3rd.

I pulled the top, containing all the shifter forks and shafts, and started
looking.  This is my virgin experience with Detroit iron so I wasn't
sure what to look at.  First thing I noticed was that it had new shifter
forks.  The mechanic was such an Einstein that he did not remove the protective
plastic coating from the fork tips before installation!  A quick thumb
through the service manual rack at Pep Boys showed me that my tranny
was missing a couple of parts.  Namely the interlock and detent balls
and springs!  Apparently this Einstein mechanic regarded them as excess
baggage.  He had welded in the pins that retain the shifter rod so
I wasn't surprised.

Ok, so much for the leadin, now the questions.  The book at Pep boys
was far too shitty for me to see what all actually goes in the 
interlock.  I have currently removed the 1st-2nd fork and shaft.
I have found a detent ball and spring and it is obvious how it goes.
Not so for the interlock.  There is a single ball still in the drilling
between the 1-2 and 3-4 fork shafts.  For the interlock to work, there
appears to require at least two balls.  Correct?  Should there also 
be a spring between the balls?  Or maybe just a rod with rounded ends?

Also, any tips about getting all this mess back in?  I had to really
jigger the cover around to get all the forks to disengage.  The reverse
fork looks like a real bitch.  At least this IS a step-van where I 
can just sit there on the floor and work on the damned thing.

thanks in advance
John


-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
"If we let this leak, it'll just kill him"  Clinton about Vince Foster

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 12 03:53:42 1994
Subject: Formula SAE BBS (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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	I know there are some people here that don't Rec.autos.sport where
this came from that would be interested in seeing it.

> 
> 
> I've heard alot of people wanting a bbs for Formula SAE.  Well, Argonne
> National Labratories has had one settup for about two years.  It was
> accessiable by phone only until the 15th of last month when they put it on
> internet.  The address is "newton.dep.anl.gov".  It promps you to login as
> bbs.   It has a few paper of info on the system, then it give you a menu
> to signon or disconnect.  Pick #1 (signon), then type new.  It asks for
> some info about you when your do you've got own account.  Once your logged
> on at the main menu pick #3 (group), Group menu pick #3 (discussion),
> Group discussion main menu pick #1 (ALL discussions),then pick
> (researchcomp, student engineering research competitions), then pick #4 (
> Formula SAE).  If you have any questions e-mail me at "burford@umr.edu". 
> Please spread the word.
> 
> 
> 					John Burford
> 					University of Missouri at Rolla
> 
> 
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 12 15:02:17 1994
Subject: Re: Reply to Re: Reply to Spherical Rotary Valves
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In article <79v5yab@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> > Poppets also work, and they work plenty well for the average passenger
> >car.  Even some large two stroke Diesels still use poppets at one end of
> >the cylinder instead of piston porting both intake and exhaust.

This has not got here, so...

The 2 stroke diesels like poppets for a couple of reasons. First
is that they are a "uni-flow", ie the gas flow is always one way,
and at the speeds they run at there is a huge temp gradient in
the cylinder. At low speeds, the evils of float etc don't matter,
and as they are often constant speed the cam can be optimised for
the correct valve timing at that speed, and to hell with the rest.

But these are NOT your average clunk-o-mobile valve! They will generaly
have huge stems, be sodium cooled ( just like my DS-21 ;-) ), and
be made of a creep resitant nickel alloy.

Of all the alternaative valves, the single sleeve is the only one
that seems to be a goer. Mike Hewland built a donkey single cylinder
500cc engine with one years ago and was quickly pulling 65-70 HP
from it with no major work. Mind you, he is no idiot in this sort of
thing. The old Napier Sabres could deliver 5500 HP in factory trim
if they over-rode the max boost and rpm settings. That is continuous
BTW, 158 hours in fact... 5000 rpm, 130" boost on 3380 in^3.

The big plus for a sleeve is that oils are MUCH better than the 40's.
The downer is that makers would have top completely re-tool their
engine plants to build them.

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 12 15:23:21 1994
Subject: Re: oil pressure pump?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article <9pw5!6h@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> Hi...I was wondering if anyone had ever used a pump that 
> builds up the crankcase pressure before starting. I know
> that such a device would greatly prolong the life of the
> engine, and I'm sure someone out there must know what I'm
> talking about. 

Industrial engines often do this. I've seen hand pumps, electric
and a accumulator used.

The accumulator is the neat one. It is a hydralic acc, a one way
valve with a restriction hole in it ( will flow fast from the
acc, slow into it ) and a soleniod valve. The soleniod valve
opens when you turn on the ignition or main power and allows
oil to flow into the engine. When pump pressure comes up,
the one-way valve closes and only allows a slow flow into the
acc to recharge it.

Even better, is too just sit for 60sec to 2 min after you start
the motor. And to go SLOW and light on the throttle till
the box and diff get oiled up as well.

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 12 19:12:06 1994
Subject: Help with 327.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Hi all 

      I have a friend who has recently put a 66 small journal 327 into
a 1971 HG Holden Wagon, The motor has steel crank, Power pack heads
4 Barrel rodchester manifold and carby, Ramhorn manifolds.
The motor was rebuilt with a 30thou bore cast flat tops, the heads got 
new valves, guides and a good deburing of the ports, the only thing other
than standard is the cam, a Crane split duration(intake-272,exaust-284),
lift is .45" and .46" i think. The problem is that the motor runs quiet
rough at idle(Cam is probaly causing this!?)(Its a TH350 auto by the
way), The motor pulles quiet well but the power is not what you would
expect (not near 300hp at all) ,another problem is that the motor will ping
quiet a bit under hard acceleration over 4200rpm, bringing the timing
back down to about 6 degrees stops this but kills the throttle
response and makes the idle worse!
The cam is installed at 0 degrees, Has anyone had any experience with this
Crane cam and/or these power pack heads running on shitty pump leaded
petrol(still sum lead in it but the octane is down to about 92 ),
The crane cam does not seem to be the right choice since the minimal
performance increase and the rough idle!
Would the factory 300hp 327 cam be a better choice or even the 350hp 327
cam, Mayby a different timing on the cam(advance it 4 degrees????)

Any help greatly apreciated and needed.
Justin...

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 12 23:54:01 1994
Subject: RE: High octain gas
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>In Australia, our pump leaded Super is getting worst 
>and worst very fast! We are about 15 years behind the
>USA in this regard, but it is now starting to hurt.
>
>Current leaded Super is 96 octane, and will soon go
>down to 94, because they are taking most of the lead 
>out of it. Our super is about US$1.86 per gallon.

Careful, different countries have different ways of rating octaine.  In the 
USA the (R+M)/2 methode is used.  Basically they average the research and 
motor octain rating of the gas.  If I remember correctly the research 
number is the ability to resist pinging (pre-ignition) under either a light 
constant load.  The "motor" number is the ability to resist pinging under a 
heavy load.  The (R+M)/2 method is used for automotive gas only.  So when 
you go to an airport you may find that 100 (in the USA 106 is available) is 
the Research number and doesn't quite corespond to what you find at the 
pump.

Bottom line is this:  Octaine is strictly the ability to resist pre-
ignition.  If your car doesn't ping with the cheaper gas then you have 
plenty of octaine.  Going for higher octain could actually cause you to 
loose performance.  Higher octain gas burns slower (and maybe has less 
total energy in it - don't know for sure).

Now, as for lead,  too much lead could leave thicker deposits on the valves 
etc - but the light flakey kind not a real problem.  This lead will 
actually cushion the valves when they open and close - and this will help 
keep the exhaust valve in good shape.  Running at high exhuast temperatures 
without lead and without hardened exhaust seats could lead to the valve 
sinking into the head an loss of performance.  Basically if you have 
resonable valve spring pressures and don't run at full throttle all day you 
should be O.K.  If you do run into a problem you can have hardened valve 
seats added later.

This is my plan anyway.  I basically use the cheapest gas I can get away 
with.  That means $.99 a gallon 87 octain in my low compression truck 
unless I'm hauling a heavy load and then I'll spend a little more.

FYI - and old Air Force bomber pilot told me they used to sell / make 
really high octaine aviation gas (126 or 136 or something similar).  But 
when the Air Force switched from piston to turbine air craft the demand 
went so low they stopped producing it (at least in quantity).

In the Maryland the highest octain I can find at the normal pumps is 93.5 (
SHELL) near the drag strip you can buy Union96 (red) - more octain then I 
ever needed - but because of the lead content you cannot pump it straight 
into a street car - first fill a can then pour from the can into the car...
So to satisify some stupid "letter of the law" you have to go through the 
fill-up ritual...  Even airports around here won't let you fill up the car 
directly from the pump.

Dirk
 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 00:41:03 1994
Subject: Re: Stuff for Sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>---- snip ----<
: 1 427 Nodular Iron Crank std./std. $350.00

: Millam

: ----------
: Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
>---- snip ----<
I might be interested in these, but I need some info.
What do you mean by 'Boss' rods? By std. pistons do you mean 
standard 351C or Windsor? What compression ratio (or what year engine)? 
Are these new pistons or used? If used - how much use - street or racing?

thanks for your time,
Vern
vdavis1@gl.umbc.edu

----------
Posted by: davison vernon 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 01:13:47 1994
Subject: Great Fords for sale!
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A friend of mine is selling his classic Ford collection including a 
number of
63, 64 and other Falcon's and he asked me to post the following ads.
Please contact Bill at (212) 695-7417.
 
1965 Falcon Futura Station wagen, 289 V8 3speed auto, ps, blue/green with
great black interior, excellent drive   $1900
 
Two 1963 Falcon Futuras 6 cylinder automatics, one is a conv, one is atwo 
door
no post, scat back hard top.   $1150 for both.
 
1965 Golden falcon special Futura, 2 door cat back hard top (no post).
Great for drag racing.    $500.00
 
1965 Falcon delux 4 door station.   Formerly squire now paint red. with 
e/c red
interior.  289 v 8,  3 speed auto, ps, $1300
 
1962 two door coup, light weight body, great dragger, $500
 
1964 LINCOLN 4 door convertable, light blue metalic, interior blue, needs
minor dents repaired, rear suicide doors, 430 V8 motor, runs extreamely well
Only $3000
 
1965 Falcon Futura 4 door station wagen 6 cylynder manual trans, white with
red interior... $950
 
1964 Galexy 500 2 door fastback. 330 hp 390 v8, $2400.
 
1959 Chevy Impalla 2 door coup, power glide, p/s 6 cyl, but I have correct
348 V8 engine for car.   Bat wings, buble top, $2500.
 
Please call Bill at 212-695-7417
 

----------
Posted by: emory!dorsai.dorsai.org!ecoc (ECOC ECOC)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 13:11:28 1994
Subject: Re: Help with 327.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Hmmm. I don't think the cam sounds all that radical. You should be able to
get good idle and throttle response. What you might try is recurving the
distributor. Get more initial advance, but keep final advance conservative
to avoid ping. Initial advance of 12-14 dgr should be no problem with a 
recurve kit. You can also hook up the distributor vacuum advance to a full 
vacuum port, instead of a ported one. This will give you another 10-15dgr
at idle. 

If this doesn't help, advancing the cam 4dgr would move the power peak down.

I have a Chev 350 with a 272/282dgr, 442/462 lift cam. I have a very smooth
idle at only 600rpm (in drive). I run 17 dgr initial advance and 39 final. With
the vacuum I think I have a total of 30 dgr advance at idle! 

Hope this helps.

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 13:22:31 1994
Subject: Holley vs Q-jet
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I would like to start a discussion on  the strong and weak points of
different carbs for US-V8s. My application is a chevy 350 in an older
Camaro. My present carb is a Holley 600cfm vacuum secondaries 4bbl (PN
1850). Im happy with the performance, with some other modifications the
car now does 0-60 in 6 seconds. But as this is a daily driver, I'm
also interested in mileage.

What if I replaced the Holley with a rochester Q-jet? Does a Q-jet get
better mileage than a Holley? The Q-jet is of the spread bore design,
and my holley is standard bore. Does a spreadbore generally get better
mileage than standard bore?

How difficult is the Q-jet to tune? The Holley is very simple, but I heard
the Q-jet is not all that easy.

I presently get 14-15mpg urban short distance driving, and maybe 18-19
on the highway. 

Are there any other carbs that are better than Holley and Rochester? Like
the Edelbrock revised Q-jet, or Carter AFB or whatever?

Thanks for any info.

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 14:19:47 1994
Subject: 56 CHEVY IN 18 aPRIL AUCTION
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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For those in SOCAL WHO MIGHT BE INTERESTED,
I have a 56 Chevy 2 door, post, 4 spd, 350 in my salvage auction.
on Monday at 1030.  Looks like this car was well cared for before it
got in the accident which brought it to my auction.Viewing is all day
Friday the 15th April and the auction begins at 1030 Monday the 18th.
The car has been hit real hard in the left rear quarter pannel and a
mild hit to the front. This is a rare piece as most of my stuff is reflective of what is being driven every day.Mike


-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 20:31:30 1994
Subject: RE: TDC
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> Want to break a few crankshafts? (no harmonic balancer!!!)  Curious,
-> why not a fluid damper or something similar?

 Not necessarily.  The blower belt is also smack where the damper goes
on a Chevy, and the Chevy crank nose is so short there's no practical
way to move it out.  You could probably make up a custom hub with a
damper ring, but I've never seen one.

 Hank the Crank used to sell SB Chev cranks with Chrysler Hemi sized
snouts.  HTC appears to have gone out of business, but you can order
long-snout cranks from Moldex, etc.
                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 20:45:05 1994
Subject: Chevy manual tranny questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> through the service manual rack at Pep Boys showed me that my tranny
-> was missing a couple of parts.  Namely the interlock and detent balls

 Oh, simply effing wonderful.  Try the local library; some of them have
impressive racks of service manuals.  Look for medium or heavy truck
books; what you have never came in a car.  Photocopy the whole section.


-> Also, any tips about getting all this mess back in?

 "Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly."  Wait!  Wait!  Don't throw
that!

 Seriously, unless you're a Rubik's Cube type puzzle freak, the manual
may be a big help.  Even *with* the directions it took us most of a day
to get the New Process overdrive out of Jay's van back together.  Not
like an ordinary old Saginaw or Muncie or whatever.
                                                        

[I've got it all back together now.  I bought a ball-bearing that 
contained 9 3/8" balls, cut it open with my diamond band saw and
used the balls to reconstruct the interlock and detents.  Worked
like a champ.  Then it only took a couple of hours to jigger this
stuff back in.  I think I convinced it to cooperate by pointing
my .45 at it while giving it a pep talk!

Now for a rant.  What the f*ck happend to the good old fashioned auto
parts store?  I drove all over N. Ga looking for an auto parts store
that still had those nice orange Dorman racks of small parts where I
could select some springs to use in the detents.  Nadda.  Nothing 
other than a few random chrome plated springs packaged on blister pack
at a buck apiece.  I finally bought a screen door return spring at a 
hardware store, stretched it out to make a compression spring and cut it
to length.  Grrrrrrr....  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 22:13:31 1994
Subject: dual exhaust on '65 Impala
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I have a friend who has a 1965 Impala that is used for an everyday driver.  It
has a 283 with a 2bbl.  He wants to keep the 2bbl for economical reasons.
He has to replace the exhaust.  Am I right in trying to convince him that
putting dual exhaust on will increase the performance and economy (even with
the 2bbl)  or is maximum performance achieved with the single exhaust for this
set-up?
				Joe (joskelly@oliver.rutgers.edu)



----------
Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 13 22:19:54 1994
Subject: Primer
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I'm going to be priming some bare steel (after using metal prep) with PPG
DP-90 two-part Epoxy Primer.  This is the first time I've ever used this
stuff.  It's supposed to be a tough, high quality primer, but I was just
wondering if any of you have ever used it before -- and if you've had any good
or bad experiences with it.  

The only thing kind of strange about it is that you're supposed to topcoat it
within one week.  I'm thinking of trying out some two part Deltron
acrylic polyurethane paint on top of it.  I've never tried that stuff either. 

I'm painting the custom rear bumper and the steel framework for the wood
flatbed that I'm putting on my '54 Chevy truck.  I figured I'd get some
experience with epoxy primer and Deltron BEFORE I start doing anything to my
'31 Plymouth.  The only painting experience I've had was with Laquer.

Supposedly you can put bondo OVER the DP-90 primer -- anybody tried this
before?

Thanks in advance for any comments or stories.
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 01:44:15 1994
Subject: Re: dual exhaust on '65 Impala
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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The Hotrod List writes:
> 
> I have a friend who has a 1965 Impala that is used for an everyday driver.  It
> has a 283 with a 2bbl.  He wants to keep the 2bbl for economical reasons.
> He has to replace the exhaust.  Am I right in trying to convince him that
> putting dual exhaust on will increase the performance and economy (even with
> the 2bbl)  or is maximum performance achieved with the single exhaust for this
> set-up?

Big exhaust never hurts.  Also, your friend could probably get better
economy with a well-tuned vacuum secondary four-barrel than he does
with the 2bbl.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 01:56:09 1994
Subject: Re:  Chevy manual tranny questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Well, the subject's a bit out of date and I don't have an editor
on this link, so here's the new subject (as brought up by John):

What happened to all the real auto parts stores?

Locally, there are several big chain stores including Pep Boys and
Kragen.  I mostly gave up on Kragen; they no longer carry parts for
older vehicles - they cater only to the stuff that the yuppie wannabees
are driving.

Pep Boys still seems to be OK; I can ask for and get things like AC
spark plugs there.  They even have people behind the counter who will
take a part number instead of insisting on "make, model, and year".

The local Car Quest had folded up and vanished when I went looking
for them two weeks ago.  Turns out the whole chain has gone out of
business.  Groan.  They used to furnish me with things like Dorman's
thread adapters, 1/8 inch nylon pressure hose, compression rings
for tubing, etc.  When I ask for that sort of stuff at the Kragen's
store I get a blank look and a wave toward the HELP blister packs
which, of course, don't have anything useful in them.

Right now I would like to find a vacuum check valve that I can install
in a 1/4" neoprene hose.  An engine backfire took out the internal
check valve at the vacuum cannister and the cannister is a real dog
to get to so I thought that I would just find a vacuum valve that
I could install in-line.  Nobody comprehends what I want to do, or
they tell me that they haven't stocked parts for the innovator for
years.  A minimum order at the cheapest industrial suppliers is $50
and I'm sure not going to buy 200 check valves to get the one that
I need.

A couple of years ago there was an outfit called Jarco that was open
EVERY DAY, including Christmas, New Year's, Thanksgiving, etc.  I hope
that they are still in business because they were a real parts store.
They carried TRW U-joints which, in my experience, are the only U-joints
tough enough to survive and prosper when subjected to heavy shock loads.
Unfortunately, their stock is distributed around several stores and it
can mean a 50 mile trip to find all of what I need.

I fear that the world of auto parts has suffered the same fate as the
world of school textbooks - there is only one kind printed because
_some_ schools won't buy books that offend the religious or political
sensibilities of the student's parents and the publishers don't want
to print two different books.  In the auto parts world, it seems that
anything which isn't a direct replacement for some currently manufactured
vehicle isn't worthy of being stocked.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!tesla.is!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 03:53:03 1994
Subject: Re: Help with 327
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I was wondering, what is the difference between 
full vacuum port and a ported one? With a ported
vacuum source, do you still get highest vacuum at
light/part trottle, and low vacuum at full throttle?

Is a ported vacuum just a lower signal version of the full vacuum?

I know that there are some vacuum sources on a carby 
for example, that work the oposite of this - ie. high
vacuum reading at full throttle. 

Where is a vacumm advance usually connected from the
factory? I am talking about late 1960's/ early 1970's here.

John.

----------
Posted by: emory!spri.levels.unisa.edu.au!johnt (John Tsimbinos)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 04:04:55 1994
Subject: 1959 Chevy for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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A friend of mine asked me to post this message for him.   Please call him
directly since I do not know about this vehicle.   Thank you.
 
 
FOR SALE:  1959 Cevy Impalla 2 door hard top.   This car has the classic,
nostalgic, late 50's look, including bat wings and bubble top.   A real
head turner.    The wildest Chevy ever.   283 V8 with power glide, power
steering, power brakes, knecker knob, white with turquoise interior.   New
front end parts, carpet, package tray and much more.   Looks, runs and like
a dream.    $6500.   Car located in West Palm Beach, Florida.
Please call Ken at 407-694-1704.
 
 
 
****If you are interested in Electric Vehicles, be sure to log onto the
ELECTRIC CAR OWNERS CLUB BBS at 718-596-6845.   No fee is charged.
 

----------
Posted by: emory!dorsai.dorsai.org!ecoc (ECOC ECOC)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 12:46:52 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-15*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

POWERBOAT RACING, KEY WEST (T)        04/14    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/14    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
Power Wheels                          04/14    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
For Race Fans Only                    04/14    7:00-8:00PM      QVC
MotorWeek (Windstar)                  04/14    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/14    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/14   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/15    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld II                          04/15    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          04/16    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed                      04/16    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN2
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING, SEATTLE (T)     04/16    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 04/16    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (body accessories) 04/16    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             04/16    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
M.T. OFF-ROAD SERIES, ANAHEIM (T)     04/16    12:00-1:00PM     ESPN
NASCAR MODIFIEDS, N. WILKESBORO (L)   04/16    1:00-2:30PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/16    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/16    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/16    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/16    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (T)                 04/16    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             04/16    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
Secrets Of Speed (Pike's Peak)        04/16    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
IHRA, SPORTSMAN SERIES, DARLINGTON (T)04/16    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN
USAC SPRINTS, VENTURA (L)             04/16    8:30-10:30PM     ESPN
Motoworld                             04/17    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
IHRA, SPORTSMAN SERIES, DARLINGTON (T)04/17    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
NASCAR MODIFIEDS, N. WILKESBORO (T)   04/17    3:30-5:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, PACIFIC, OKAYAMA (SD)      04/17    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/17    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/17    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Joe Gibbs)       04/17    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/17    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/17    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           04/17   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
SpeedWeek                             04/17    12:30-1:00PM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (L)        04/17    1:00-4:00PM      ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Joe Gibbs)       04/17    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/17    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/17    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, LONG BEACH (L)               04/17    4:00-6:00PM      ABC
NASCAR Shop Talk                      04/17    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN
IMSA, ATLANTA GRAND PRIX (SD)         04/17    5:00-7:00PM      ESPN
COPPER WORLD CLASSIC, PHOENIX (T)     04/17    5:00-6:25PM      TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    04/17    6:25-7:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (body accessories) 04/17    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/17    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/17    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           04/17    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      04/17    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    04/18    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
AMA, 600cc & HARLEY RACES, DAYTONA (T)04/18    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
FORMULA 1, PACIFIC, OKAYAMA (T)       04/18    12:30-2:00AM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (T)        04/18    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
The Power And The Glory               04/18    6:00-6:30AM      A&E
Movie: Cannonball Run II              04/18    6:00-7:50AM      HBO
Power Wheels                          04/18    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
INDY LIGHTS, PHOENIX (T)              04/19    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
A Race For Heroes (Rick Mears)        04/19    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Legends Of The Brickyard (1977)       04/19    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
USAC SPRINTS, VENTURA (T)             04/19    3:30-5:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             04/19    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
The Power And The Glory               04/19    6:00-6:30AM      A&E
Motorcycle Racing Preview             04/19    1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (T) 04/19    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
BARBER SAAB PRO SERIES, MIAMI (T)     04/19    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Power Wheels                          04/19    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          04/19   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
IMSA, ATLANTA GRAND PRIX (T)          04/20    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
The Power And The Glory               04/20    6:00-6:30AM      A&E
Power Wheels                          04/20    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed (aerodynamics w/Emo) 04/21    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (T)        04/21    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Movie: Duel                           04/21    1:05-3:05PM      TBS
AMA, SUPERBIKE DIVISION, PHOENIX (T)  04/21    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/21    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
Power Wheels                          04/21    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek                             04/21    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/21   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
Motoworld                             04/22    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
AMA, SUPERBIKE DIVISION, ATLANTA (T)  04/22    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/22    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld II                          04/22    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NASCAR DASH SERIES, MARTINSVILLE (L)  04/23    2:00PM           ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Warren Johnson)  04/24    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (L)         04/24    12:00PM          ESPN
N Bonnett's Winners (Warren Johnson)  04/24    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS (?)          04/24    tba              tba
ASA, DENVER (L)                       04/24    3:00-5:00PM      TNN
SN THUNDER, VENTURA (L)               04/25    12:30AM          ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/25    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/28    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/28    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/28    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
DRAG RACING (?)                       04/28    7:30-8:30PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/28    8:30-9:00PM      HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/28    9:00-10:00PM     HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/28    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/28   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
ARCA, TALLADEGA (L)                   04/30    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, ROUGEMONT (L)               04/30    5:00-7:30PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, SAN MARINO (L)             05/01    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON SELECT, CHARLOTTE (L)         05/01    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            05/01    2:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, LOUDON (?)                  05/07    tba              tba
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, SONOMA (L)          05/14    4:30PM           ESPN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, POLE DAY (L) 05/14    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, MONACO (L)                 05/15    9:20AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
ASA, TOLEDO (L)                       05/15    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, SEARS POINT (L)          05/15    4:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (T)               05/15    tba              ABC
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 2ND DAY (L)  05/15    3:00PM       ESPN,TSN
NHRA, MID-SOUTH NATIONALS (?)         05/15    tba              tba
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/18   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/19   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/20   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, THE WINSTON, CHARLOTTE(L)05/21    tba              TNN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 3RD DAY (L)  05/21    5;00PM       ESPN,TSN
BUSCH GN, NAZARETH (?)                05/22    tba              tba
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 4TH DAY (L)  05/22    4:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, ENGLISHTOWN (?)      05/22    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, CHARLOTTE (?)               05/28    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, SPAIN (L)                  05/29    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
INDIANAPOLIS 500 (L)                  05/29   11:00AM-3:30PM    ABC
WINSTON CUP, CHARLOTTE (L)            05/29    5:00PM           TBS
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/01   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/02   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/03   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (L)                   06/04    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (L)                06/05    12:10PM          TNN
INDYCAR, MILWAUKEE (L)                06/05    4:00-6:00PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, MYRTLE BEACH (?)            06/11    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    2:00-4:00PM  ESPN,CBC
INDYCAR, DETROIT (L)                  06/12    2:00-4:30PM      ABC [1]
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               06/12    12:30PM          TNN
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (T)                06/12    tba              ABC
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, KIRKERSVILLE(?)06/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             06/19    1:00PM           CBS

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races (the Indy 500 & Long 
Beach will not be shown this year).  The races are usually broadcast on a 
tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening following the race.  I 
understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to delay the broadcast as much 
as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so please use extra caution if you 
plan to tape the race.  If you have access to it, and your French isn't 
too rusty, you may also want to check out RDS which used to broadcast 
each F1 race live. (I don't know for sure if they still do).  Thanks to 
Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area.  If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows.  If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't.  Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR".  On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
 location somewhere near the track at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday 
before the race.  An interesting (IMO) show which usually includes a live 
audience, driver/guest, and viewer call-ins.  This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 22:14:45 1994
Subject: parts stores
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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	My votes for the best parts store are Napa Autozone.  Around here they
have the best prices ocaisionly good advice and a decent selection.  They
show you the computer screen so you know If more than one part will fit
and can decide which one you want.  The selection isn't complete they
leave out things like selling the timing chain but not the tensioner.
The local manager even called me back at home to find out why I had
returned something at the other store.  I think they even honor the
lifetime warnty on the cheap chinia tools they sell and will lend you
things like slide hammers our ring compressor's
	Napa has to have the best selection and parts.  If you can get
them at the prices the shops pay they aren't to bad either.  To bad
they're only open till noon on weekends.  The machine shops prices can
beat out Pep Boys remanufatered prices by a good bit.  It was 40$ less to
get my crank machined and the bearings for it than an exchange on a
rebuilt chrank from Pep boys.  I even got it quicker to. Some times the
guy behind the counter actualy knows what he's talking about.  Besides
they sponser our Formula SAE team with tools.  They are good tools too. 

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 22:32:58 1994
Subject: Leaf Springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I don't how related this question is but what the heck.


My boss owns a 68 Jeepster. It has been seriously redesigned to accomodate
Ford 9" rearends if the front and rear with 4wheel discs. The problem lies
at the leaf springs. 

The promblem is that the springs a sagging. They have been re-arced onced,
and then replaced once with new springs. As of now, the new springs have
sagged after only a little while. 

I know that unsprung wait can be problem, but it seems that the springs
should last for longer then that. Also, the Jeepster sports 33x15x10.5
tires. 

I thought by adding bigger "meaning wider" springs like off an older
Bronco might do the trick. The stock width of the Jeepster springs
seems quite small in comparison to anything else.

Any thoughts...


Thanks
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 22:44:40 1994
Subject: Re: '65 Impala exhaust
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8252
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Regarding your friend with the '65 Impala with a 283:  I used to have a '67
Impala with a 283.  I found that I got WAY BETTER economy and performance by
replacing the two barrel with a Holley "Q-Jet Replacement" four barrel and
getting rid of the stock exhaust in favor of headers and dual exhaust.  I
also recurved the distributor.  To stick on the Holley 4 bbl carb, I found a
used 4 bbl manifold on an old 327-equipped Chevelle in a junk yard.

The Holley had great throttle response, while the old 2bbl had terrible "flat
spots".   

With the 2bbl it was a dog, but with the Holley and headers, it was a
pleasure.  I remember drag racing a friend of mine who had a '70 Camaro with
a fresh 350 in it.  It was always a dead-even tie.  The 283 has 9.25:1
compression, and it's a great little engine if you let it breathe.

Definitely put dual exhaust on it, if nothing else!

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 23:02:51 1994
Subject: What happened to all the real auto parts stores?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8253
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In article 
hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> What happened to all the real auto parts stores?

I have had finally settled on NAPA auto parts stores.  I have dealt with their
stores in Champaign, Urbana, Taylorville and Springfield, Illinois.  I have
been quite pleased with their service and their willingness to help.

I have gone in a couple of times saying "lemme tell you what I want to do."
They have been willing to work with me to come up with a solution.  Someone who
will spend 20 minutes to help me solve my problem with a $4 part gets my loyal
return business when I buy $100 of parts.

As an added bonus, they have been helpful and respectful when dealing with my
female friends - unfortunately, a rare commodity in these parts.

That's been my experience in central Illinois - your milage may vary.


 2                                metcalf@blast.bso.uiuc.edu
R  M                         "Gee, I wonder what this button does ..."

----------
Posted by: emory!blast.bso.uiuc.edu!metcalf (Ralph R. Metcalf)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 14 23:16:37 1994
Subject: Paxton / Fuel injection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8254
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  This is the third attempt to post this article.  I haven't seen it
  go by in the return mail yet, so I am not sure it went at all!
 
  I have a project car ..1970 Avanti. I've installed a new Jasper
  class II 350 CID 328 hp.  The engine has low compression, so I
  decided to resurrect the old Avanti Paxton setup with the blower
  box encasing the carburator.  I would like to use a fuel injection
  setup (throttle body or Holly Pro-jection unit), instead of a carb.
  Does anyone have any knowledge or past experience with a setup like
  this. I am trying to determine the impact that the blower pressure
  increase inside the blower box would have on an aftermarket injection
  setup.  In the carb version, fuel pressure must be increased as blower
  pressure increases.  This is done by routing some pressure to the
  top of the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm. As the blower pressure
  increases, it adds to the spring pressure, thus adding to fuel
  pressure.  I would imagime that the higher fuel pressure in an
  injection unit would eliminate the need for any boost, since the
  blower pressure would never exceed the pump pressure.  However, it
  is the mechanics of the injection unit that i'm concerned about.
   I need to know if there are any diaphragms or seals that would rupture
  or take a beating from the external pressure inside the box. An engineer
  that I'm working with on this project has made some inquiries, but received
  no definite answers from anyone.  The blower pressure will probably not exceed  8 - 10 PSI.  Can anyone see any holes in this idea... help
    Thanks

----------
Posted by: emory!emcdgw12.er.usgs.GOV!rjonst ( Bob Johnstone x5455 System Adm )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 01:37:27 1994
Subject: Re: Alternator bracket billet
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|> I am also to the point where I need to make myself some sort of
|> alternator bracket.
|> ...
|> I have a local scrapyard that gets all sorts of good Al from the local
|> industry, and will sell small pieces.
|> ...
|> I have been rather suprised at the number of custom components needed in 
|> this conversion, but at least it is moving along.

It might not be exactly the answer you were looking for, but have you tried
casting your own bracket ?  With all the gear you listed you can certainly
do any finishing-off machining necessary.  Not too expensive either, but
you would have to be keen otherwise I would suggest cobbling something up
out of old alternator brackets and scrap aluminium.

There are a number of good books on casting aluminium (or, as some people
might spell it, aluminum :-), just ask me if you are interested.

----------
Posted by: emory!anusf.anu.edu.au!jdb867 (John.D.Barlow)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 01:54:04 1994
Subject: Lists down til sunday night
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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The lists will be down due to an absent admin until Sunday
night.  Remain calm.  :-)

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
"If we let this leak, it'll just kill him"  Clinton about Vince Foster

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 11:50:28 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
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by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
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----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 12:07:18 1994
Subject: Re: Help with 327
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8258
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X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
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In article <1s45svc@dixie.com> you wrote:

: I was wondering, what is the difference between 
: full vacuum port and a ported one?

Ported Vacuum is a Vacuum source that is located above the throttle plate.
at an idle, this port has, practically, no vacuum.  Until the throttle
plates open.  Then, depending on the location and design of the port in
the carb venturi or throttle body on FI, the vacuum signal will be equal
to manifold vacuum.

Manifold Vacuum.  This is the vacuum signal directly from the intake
manifold.  It is also known as "supply vacuum". This signal is the
greatest at idle (throttle plate closed) and lowest at WOT.  At Wide Open
Throttle, the intake manifold in near atmospheric pressure = little
vacuum signal.

 : I know that there are some vacuum sources
on a carby  : for example, that work the oposite of this - ie. high
: vacuum reading at full throttle. 

Hmmm.... Never seen this at the Carb.  From the above, this is only
possible using a vacuum reservoir that loads at high manfold vacuum
conditions and feeds (or discharges) at low manifold vacuum conditions.
Some cars used vacuum reservoirs on headlight doors and the after market
sells vac-cans for cars with "Race" cams to help run vacuum driven
accessories during idle conditions.
 :
Where is a vacumm advance usually connected
from the : factory? I am talking about late 1960's/ early 1970's here.

Vacuum advance was connected to both - through at least a dozen different
control methods.  Mostly, I remember Vac Adv being connected to Ported
Vacuum Signals.

GPG

----------
Posted by: emory!iunet.ic.net!geraldg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 12:19:51 1994
Subject: Re: Primer
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8259
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In article <0g45dap@dixie.com>, The Hotrod List  wrote:
>I'm going to be priming some bare steel (after using metal prep) with PPG
>DP-90 two-part Epoxy Primer.  
>The only thing kind of strange about it is that you're supposed to topcoat it
>within one week.  

Yes, this primer will absorb water, so you need to get a topcoat on it
pretty quickly.  Don't wash off the car after putting primer on it, the
water will be absorbed by the water and will rust out the metal (ruining
your new paint).

>Supposedly you can put bondo OVER the DP-90 primer -- anybody tried this
>before?

I never liked the sound of it, so I always bondo'd on bare metal, and primered
the metal.

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 12:32:57 1994
Subject: Re: Primer
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8260
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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On Thu, 14 Apr 94 00:43:50 GMT, The Hotrod List wrote:

>I'm going to be priming some bare steel (after using metal prep) with PPG
>DP-90 two-part Epoxy Primer.  This is the first time I've ever used this
>stuff.  It's supposed to be a tough, high quality primer, but I was just
>wondering if any of you have ever used it before -- and if you've had any good
>or bad experiences with it.  
>
>The only thing kind of strange about it is that you're supposed to topcoat it
>within one week.  I'm thinking of trying out some two part Deltron
>acrylic polyurethane paint on top of it.  I've never tried that stuff either. 

I used DP-90 on my car hauler trailer after using PPG metal prep. It was 
easy to work with and spray. It came highly recomended as a durable 
undercoat. I used an acrylic urethane as the topcoat with excellent results.
The rock chips that have managed to chip the paint haven't even phased the 
primer.
The acrylic urethanes are the only thing I spray! They are easy to work 
with, dry fast like a laquer and need very little (if any) buffing out when 
cured. When your spraying in a garage, the fast dry time keeps the dust out!

If you can get over the price hurdle of both of these then you've got about 
the most durable, sprayable finish you can find!

----------
Posted by: "Todd Houg" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 12:45:03 1994
Subject: Re: Help with 327
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8261
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

In article 1s45svc@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>I was wondering, what is the difference between 
>full vacuum port and a ported one? With a ported
>vacuum source, do you still get highest vacuum at
>light/part trottle, and low vacuum at full throttle?
>
>Is a ported vacuum just a lower signal version of the full vacuum?
>
>I know that there are some vacuum sources on a carby 
>for example, that work the oposite of this - ie. high
>vacuum reading at full throttle. 
>
>Where is a vacumm advance usually connected from the
>factory? I am talking about late 1960's/ early 1970's here.
>
>John.

The only difference between a full vacuum port and a ported port is
at idle. The full port has a vacuum at idle and the ported doesn't.
As soon as the engine leaves idle (usually above 1300rpm or thereabout)
the vacuum reading is the same as for the full port.

Most '60s muscle cars had the distributor connected to a full vacuum,
and most '70s cars use a ported vacuum. If you install a high duration/
high lift cam, idle will get rough. By switching to a full vacuum source,
idle timing advance increases and helps smooth the idle.

I'm not sure why '70s cars didn't use full vacuum. I suspect it doesn't
work well when combined with certain types of emission control?

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 17:40:54 1994
Subject: Re: Formula SAE BBS (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8262
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

: > 
: > 
: > I've heard alot of people wanting a bbs for Formula SAE.  Well, Argonne
: > National Labratories has had one settup for about two years.  It was
: > accessiable by phone only until the 15th of last month when they put it on
: > internet.  The address is "newton.dep.anl.gov".  It promps you to login as
: > bbs.   It has a few paper of info on the system, then it give you a menu
: > to signon or disconnect.  Pick #1 (signon), then type new.  It asks for
: > some info about you when your do you've got own account.  Once your logged
: > on at the main menu pick #3 (group), Group menu pick #3 (discussion),
: > Group discussion main menu pick #1 (ALL discussions),then pick
: > (researchcomp, student engineering research competitions), then pick #4 (
: > Formula SAE).  If you have any questions e-mail me at "burford@umr.edu". 
: > Please spread the word.

	Yes, is this some kind of car service? Can I find info about my 
Mustang there? This sounds kinda interesting, just what is it?

--
	The way things happen:(in order of importance)
				Chance:	Faith: Music	
		I have never dwelled in sorrow so happily before...
	 			

----------
Posted by: emory!iglou.com!pauld (Paul Duer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 17:53:33 1994
Subject: Nose, Deck, and Prime...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8263
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


I've just about sorted out the mechanics on my '63 Galaxie daily driver.
So, now it's time to think about the body. I plan to de-chrome the
hood and trunk and add a few 'kustom' touches.

Traditional wisdom has been that the only good way to fill trim holes is by
welding and leading.  Is it possible to do a decent (if not show-quality)
job with modern plastic fillers?  Any recommendations on products? 

Regarding the waterproof primer question:  I spoke to a group of custom   
car guys at a show last fall. Most of the cars from their club were
finished in what looked like colored primer. I asked about their
experiences with water absorption and rust. Turns out that the cars
were actually painted with a 50-50 mix of topcoat color and flattener
(presumably over regular primer, but I'm not sure about that).

Anyway, the effect was a soft, semi-gloss look that almost glowed under
a street light at night.  Really sharp...and they could wash their cars
with a Scotch-Brite pad!

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 18:06:20 1994
Subject: Re: Paxton / Fuel injection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8264
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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In article <2j558kd@dixie.com>, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>   this. I am trying to determine the impact that the blower pressure
>   increase inside the blower box would have on an aftermarket injection
>   setup.  In the carb version, fuel pressure must be increased as blower
>   pressure increases.  This is done by routing some pressure to the
>   top of the mechanical fuel pump diaphragm. As the blower pressure
>   increases, it adds to the spring pressure, thus adding to fuel
>   pressure.  I would imagime that the higher fuel pressure in an
>   injection unit would eliminate the need for any boost, since the
>   blower pressure would never exceed the pump pressure.  However, it
>   is the mechanics of the injection unit that i'm concerned about.
>    I need to know if there are any diaphragms or seals that would rupture
>   or take a beating from the external pressure inside the box. An engineer
>   that I'm working with on this project has made some inquiries, but received
>   no definite answers from anyone.  The blower pressure will probably not exceed  8 - 10 PSI.  Can anyone see any holes in this idea... help
>     Thanks
> 

Looks to me like blower pressure wouldn't effect fuel pressure coming from the
ProJection unit; the fuel is delivered by pumps, not negative pressure.
I don't imagine that even fairly high boosts would adversely affect the TBI
unit either.  Basically, the Holley is just two holes with fuel injectors
sitting over each one; fuel delivery is controlled by the dreaded "box".

Scott

------------------------------------------------------------------------------
+G           __________    ___o      C ! H       o___    __________         G+  
+o             ________  _`\ <_       R!S        _> /'_  ______             o+ 
+o              _______ (*)/ (*)       A        (*) \(*) _____              o+ 
+s             "It's never too late to have a happy childhood"              s+  
+e                Email: sacroughwell@vmsa.is.csupomona.edu                 e+  
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!csupomona.edu!sacroughwell
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 18:20:55 1994
Subject: RE: DP-90
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8265
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com



Tom, 

I've never used the DP-90 but, I know the PPG K-200 (yellow) primer work
excellent. It's exspensive, about $100 for a gallon of primer, thinner and
hardner. 

If you have prep the metal with a good metal conditioner it should last for
a while without primer as long as the surface hasn't been scratched. Most metal
preps will etch the surface and the coat metal with some type of film/barrier
to protect it from moisture. I sure that the K200 without prepping the metal
will ever work for fine for long periods without a topcoat. As for bondo
on top of primer is never a good idea. The painted surface is to smooth
for proper adhesion. I recommend not to put bondo on metal prep w/o griding
the surface. The best application for bondo is directly on freshly ground
metal. We're talking about scrathes made with nothing more than 40 grit open
coat sandpaper. The bondo needs to grab onto something. I know i've seen it
too bodyshops put bondo on primer? Well I don't care what they think its sucks.

Remember once a catalyst type primer is activated you have to spray it in
less then 3 hours, or else it hardens up! Your best bet is to get all the
work ready have everything clean and spray as much as you can. When I was 
doing the body work on my Mustang I never sprayed less then 1qt. at a time.
The best method is 1 light coat wait for the fash then 2nd coat a little heavier
wait for flash, and 3rd to touch up areas you might have missed. Guide coat it
sand away. One thing for sure the K-200 sands so bitchen that you could almost 
clear coat it. 

As for lacquer wwhy waste the time.

If want my help? I live pretty close.

Anyway there's my ...

See ya
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 18:31:50 1994
Subject: Re: Leaf Springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8266
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:


: I don't how related this question is but what the heck.


: My boss owns a 68 Jeepster. It has been seriously redesigned to accomodate
: Ford 9" rearends if the front and rear with 4wheel discs. The problem lies
: at the leaf springs. 

: The promblem is that the springs a sagging. They have been re-arced onced,
: and then replaced once with new springs. As of now, the new springs have
: sagged after only a little while. 

it sounds like he's using too light a spring - should prbabaly go with
heavy-duty springs like off a truck to handle the modifications

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 18:38:50 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8267
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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The best way to find the max amount to advance the timing is to hook up
a vacuum guage to a vacuum port on the intake. Then increase the timing
to you get to the highest amount of vacuum you can get. Then try to
start the motor. If the motor has a hard time turning over, then back
off on the advance untill the starter will crank effeciently. By the
way, don't forget that the motor must be at operating temperature.

----------
Posted by: emory!eos.ncsu.edu!gtholder
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 18:45:14 1994
Subject: Re: What happened to all the real auto parts stores?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8268
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: In article 
: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

: > What happened to all the real auto parts stores?

most have gone the way of the Kragens, Grand Auto, etc where they hire
a lot of bozos, at a cheap price, and have one, maybe two people that
really know what they're doing

there was a time when auto stores and performance stores were where you
needed them, now you have to hunt for a store where they know what 
they're doing, for instance, in the San Francisco Bay area there is
almost no one, save the Kragen/Grand stores on the east bay - and in the
valley - that's another story too - while in San Jose, you can go into
speciality stores (ones that specialize in Chevy related, or Mustang 
related stuff) - then there's the performance stores like performance
warehouse, R.H. Jones, or the All Ford store where the sales people
know what they're talking about

as for the Napa stores - yes, most of them are good and their product is
good, and again, most of the people selling in them have a good idea of
what they're talking about - see comment below

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 15 18:51:24 1994
Subject: 1968 Torino for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8269
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Subject: 1968 Torino for sale
Summary:
Keywords:

For sale, best offer:

1968 Torino GT Fastback
390 C6 automatic Holley 4V
5 almost new radials, factory mags
runs well, looks good (some rust in floor boards)

email me at rosedale@columbia.edu or call 718 548 3084

----------
Posted by: emory!columbia.edu!rosedale (Jeff Rosedale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 12:40:39 1994
Subject: Re: Re: What happened to all the real auto parts stores?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>as for the Napa stores - yes, most of them are good and their product is
>good, and again, most of the people selling in them have a good idea of
>what they're talking about - see comment below
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)

my wife was working at a local pettigrew smith when
after being bought out by carquest, went on a cost
cutting spree.  they laid-off the "old guy" and replaced
him with a teenager.  this teenager doesn't even know
what emery cloth is.   since then my wife and several others
have left, pettigrew  has lost all there commerical accounts,
due to the new manager and his high school buddies.  this
is about a $30k per month loss.  boy are those accountants
really saving some money now!  should have keep the "old
guy", since the store orginally belonged to him (in '80), and he
had a loyal following.  she was just called by them wanting
her to come back, not a chance in hell.

i have nothing against hiring teenagers but not at the
expense of talented, experinced people.  i think most
today are well qualified for sackers at the store.

just my thoughts, not my employers.

----------
Posted by: emory!bangate.compaq.com!Rel=Eng%PCPD=Hou!Mike=Goodman
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 12:50:31 1994
Subject: easy engine questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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O.k... I think my lack of engine knowledge will be apparent
after you read these questions...they're pretty easy.
     
     1. What are hardened valve seatss, and what does that
	do?

     2. What is the main webbing of the block?

     3. What is MMagnafluxing? 

     4. What is a windage tray, and how does it increase
	horsepower?

     5. What FAQ's exist for this newsgroup? I'm specifically
	looking for ones on cams, ignitions, and intake manifolds.
	Fali
	Failing that, I'd settle for a patient soul to answer 
	some questions.

     My questions are about a 390 I'm going to give a rebuild
over the summer. I'm planning on converting it more or less
to a 428, with new heads, intake, crank, rods, etc...
Is this conversion as easy as I've been ld to believe it is?
If anyone has done such a job, and has some advice, I'd really
appreciate it. 
     Thanks in advance to whoever takes to time to answer my 
questions!

				--Erik
				emueller@eden.rutgers.edu

	P.S. Are there any good machine shops in the central/North
		Jersey area?

----------
Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!emueller (Erik Mueller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 13:02:13 1994
Subject: one last question...
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Has anyone dealt successfully with Performance Auto Warehouse
in California? Waht is the quality of their parts and service, 
and would you reommend them for engine rebuilding kits (i.e.
gaskets, bearings, oil pumps, rings, and timing chains)?

Thanks again!
			--Erik
			emueller@eden.rutgers.edu

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Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!emueller (Erik Mueller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 13:15:13 1994
Subject: Re: Alternator bracket billet
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-> It might not be exactly the answer you were looking for, but have you
-> tried casting your own bracket ?

 Casting can be *very* easy.  I just turned some 8" square chunks of
3/4" plate into two 6" round wheel spacers; would've been much faster to
just cast up some about the right size to start with.  I have a
Carter-AFB-to-Nikki four barrel adapter plate I cast up for my wife's
RX7, haven't put it on yet.
                   

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 13:55:39 1994
Subject: Re: Leaf Springs (The Hotrod List)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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There is a company called National Spring that advertises in most of the
4-Wheel drive magazines. They custom build leaf springs. They will have you
weigh the vehicle, both front and back axles and design the spring for
your vehicle.This is probaly your best bet.

--
Dean Waters				E-Mail:  dwaters@interbase.borland.com
Systems Engineer
Borland International			Fax:     (408)431-4144
100 Borland Way
Scotts Valley, CA 95067			Phone:   (408)431-1917


----------
Posted by: Dean Waters 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 14:09:24 1994
Subject: Re: Paxton / Fuel injection
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The Hotrod List writes:
> 
> In article <2j558kd@dixie.com>, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> >   this. I am trying to determine the impact that the blower pressure
> >   increase inside the blower box would have on an aftermarket injection
> >   setup.  In the carb version, fuel pressure must be increased as blower
> >   pressure increases.  This is done by routing some pressure to the
> 
> Looks to me like blower pressure wouldn't effect fuel pressure coming from the
> ProJection unit; the fuel is delivered by pumps, not negative pressure.
> I don't imagine that even fairly high boosts would adversely affect the TBI
> unit either.  Basically, the Holley is just two holes with fuel injectors
> sitting over each one; fuel delivery is controlled by the dreaded "box".

If the fuel is going through the blower, then you don't need to worry.
But in this case, the fuel enters the system below the blower.  Fuel
flow through the injector is a function of on-time and differential
pressure accross the injector.  When you significantly increase the
pressure on the outlet side of the injector, you are significantly
decreasing fuel flow, just the opposite of what you want to do.  You may
be able to calibrate around this, but I'd say it'll probably be a major
headache, especially with a non-programmable controller.  To keep your
sanity while trying to calibrate the controller, it helps immensley to
know that fuel flow is a function of just on-time, and the only way to
achieve that condition is by maintaning constant differential pressure
accross the injector (and constant voltage, but thats usually only a
problem during cranking).  To do this with the TBI, you'll need a
regulator that references to blower outlet pressure rather than
atmospheric pressure.  Actually he may be in luck, if the regulator is
integral to the TBI unit, then when he sticks the bonnet over it, it'll
be referenced to blower outlet pressure.  If the regulator is externally
mounted, then he'll need to figure out a way to reference it to the
blower outlet pressure.



-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 14:26:35 1994
Subject: Re: '65 Impala exhaust
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>I used to have a '67
>Impala with a 283.  I found that I got WAY BETTER economy and performance by
>replacing the two barrel with a Holley "Q-Jet Replacement" four barrel and
>
>The Holley had great throttle response, while the old 2bbl had terrible "flat
>spots".   
>
>With the 2bbl it was a dog, but with the Holley and headers, it was a
>pleasure. 

I had a bad experience with the Holley "q-jet" replacement. I used
one to replace a 4 bbl q-jet, and it got worse mileage, worse throttle
response, and made this annoying high-pitched sucking sound (like a vacuum
leak) at part throttle.  I took it back and got another new one, 
and it didn't change anything.  I didn't feel like changing it AGAIN, 
so I just left it alone.  The carb died after about 4 years (I don't 
know what was wrong with it, as I no longer have the vehicle).

>Definitely put dual exhaust on it, if nothing else!

I second that one.

-Eric

----------
Posted by: emory!everest.Stanford.EDU!eap (Eric Perozziello)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 14:38:58 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>:> The A/F-ratio goes rich at about 60 mph (oxygen sensor). What else could
>:>cause this apart from that lever? The secondaries aren't open yet.
>:>Otherwise engine power and response is good but this richening drops
>:>mileage to 14 mpg (city-60-75 mph).
>
>	I'm afraid that I don't know enough about Q-Jets to answer this part,
>sorry.
>
>Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)

Sometimes you have "toy" with the float.  I have a two barrel carb  I had to 
adjust the float in my carb 3/16" off from factory.  When I set the float to
the reccomended level, The car bogged, backfire and smelled strongly of 
gasoline.  Since that adjustment, I have had nothing but great performance.
Well, as much as you can from a 2100 (two barrel).  Just play with it,  The 
best way is to set as low as possible, get it on the road with a load (four 
passengers) and gun it.  Adjust it, until it dosn't stall or fan out.  If it 
back fires and you know for sure you ignition system is good, timing, then you 
aught to drop the float level.  Unless you do it by the guages, you might as 
well you will be tinkering with it for two weeks, till you get it right, hopping
out at read lights to do a quick minor adjustment.  Good luck.


----------
Posted by: emory!po.CWRU.Edu!gtj (Gregory T. Jehan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 14:51:20 1994
Subject: Re: Ignition problem(?)/HEI question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In a previous article, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) says:

>Yup, I'm having misfiring problems yet again (argh.)  Anyway, here's the
>situation and my questions:  I have a 'done up' Chevy 350 running an HEI
>ignition.  When sitting at idle, the tach will bounce around once in a
>while like it is misfiring.  Also, when cruising down the street, it will
>really start bouncing the tach and misfiring, but at weird times.  When
>slowly inching up on the pedal, it will work fine, but if I whack it open
>or let off the gas when cruising at around 3000 RPM, it either misfires 
>causing the tach to bounch between 1000-3000 (as I slow down further it 
>doesn't bounce as much) or ping like crazy when accelerating.  Also, when
>it does work right (i.e. no misfiring at low RPMs) once it gets above 4500 or
>so it really begins missing.
>

I had a very similar problem, and after countless hours of frustration I
found out that it was my point gap in the distributor.  I am not familar with 
the unit you spoke of but if you use points check the gap it might be too small.
If it's not check your plugs? are they gapped correctly?  I am interested in 
what you find out.  If you would, please let me know what you find.

----------
Posted by: emory!po.CWRU.Edu!gtj (Gregory T. Jehan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 15:02:35 1994
Subject: '90 mustang 4cyl turbo add-on
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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	I have a 4cylinder Mustang convt --1990-- that needs 
some punch to say the least. One way I thought about 
approaching this was to take a turbo set up from an '88 
Thunderbird and add it on. It seems that the EFI is the 
same, and from what I read only the head is slightly 
different: 8:1 in the 'Bird compared to my 9:1. Will the 
exhaust manifold bolts line up. Do you know anyone who has 
tried this? I would appreciate any info on this from you 
all!

----------
Posted by: emory!udavxb.oca.udayton.edu!HEITMANN
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 18:01:34 1994
Subject: GM voltage regulation
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Well I was trying to start my 64 Chevelle on Saturday ( the ZZ3/T700
project one ) and ran into some electrical gremlins.  

It may be that I do not understand the point of external voltage regulation.
Seems like just another headache.  I have the chance to change to an 
internally-regulated 55 amp alternator for about $30  This would let
me discard the voltage regulator.  Should I do it?  All I can remember
about these things ( regulators ) is that my father used to waste
quite a bit of time on them.

More electrical questions.   The starter has a solenoid with S and R
connections.  The S is Start -- thats easy to figure.  The R is Run?
Supposedly to go to the + side of the coil.  I have HEI now ( and no
ballast resistor ).  Can I successfully ignore the R post?
I am running the - side of the coil to ground.  Any problem there?

The ZZ3 uses a post '86-style starter.  I just took a look in the 
book and tried one for a '88 305 Camaro.  It may work... can't tell
right now because the starter will not crank the motor.  Likely
a battery problem, because I could crank it by hand ( really by 
screwdriver ).   The solenoid engages and the battery
voltage drops to about 10 V.  Is a 305 starter fine?


On the bright side, the only things currently missing are spark plug and 
wires, a few seat bolts, kick panel insulation and some specialty
washers for the transmission mount....  Almost time to destroy some 
tires.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 18:28:38 1994
Subject:      Re: easy engine questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Hey Erik,
Welcome to the hobby. I've been doing it on and off for eons and am
on to it again and hope to be able to stick with it this time. On to your
questions.
Hardened seats: these came around thanks to the elimination of lead in
our gas. The lead acted like a lubricant and prevented the exhaust
valve from 'wearing' right through the seat as it seated. Hardened seats
are just a ring of hardened steel installed in the head then machined
(3 angle) as a seat.
Main webbing: Basically these are the parts of the block casting that
extend from side to side of the block and into which are machined the
saddles for the main bearings. Usually you see a reference to these in
a discussion of a HO block and they say thicker webbing or cast in beams
or something like that.
Magnafluxing: used to detect otherwise undetectable cracks in iron heads
and blocks. Basically you take a big electromagnet attach it to the block
and then sprinkle iron dust over the block. The theory is that a magnet is
strongest at its poles and if the iron of the block is interrupted by a
crack you have a pole there and what you see is a definite line where
a glob of powder has accumulated.
Windage tray: A sheet of metal in the oil pan above the full oil line
but below the lowest point of the crankshaft throws. As you accelerate
without a windage tray the oil sloshes up in a wave and as the crank
comes around it strikes the oil. Doesn't sound like much resistance
but apparently it is and can wipe off quite a few horses. I've heard
stories of oil actually getting hung up in the crank in extreme cases
and causing oil starvation.
On the subject of machine shops, I've got a shop I use exclusively where
the owner is an absolute master especially with big block Fords but he's
in Atlanta, a long drive for you. When I was living up near the Catskill
mountains and used to run Chevy and Pontiac stuff mostly we used a guy
in Paterson, NJ. His name was Dick Sominek (spelling?). He had a shop
that was one of many in a gasoline alley kind of setup where one shop
recurved distributors, another did carbs, another head porting and on
and on. He was a pretty old guy back then so I'd imagine he's sold the
busines by now but I'm curious if you know the place I'm talking about.
Stay in toch. I'd like to hear how the 390 buildup is going. Good luck.

----------
Posted by: Bob Bigelow 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 18:37:45 1994
Subject: Camaro body mount kits
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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    I have one quick question for everyone that I can't find an answer
    to......:  I'm restoring a '69 Camaro.  I have the subframe off and
    am planning to order a polygraphite bushing kit.  My question is
    how do I get sleeves?  All the companies say one must reuse his or
    her old sleeves.  2 problems- I disassembled the car two years ago, 
    and even if I still had the old bushings, they were completely rust-
    ed away.  Now, what do I do??  If I go GM, I need to pay $75 for
    original rubber bushings just to get the sleeves.  Most junk or parts
    cars will have equally bad sleeves.   Suggestions??  I NEED SLEEVES!!
                  Thanks for any help.
                                      mvkrg@mvubr.att.com
                                         Paul

----------
Posted by: emory!mvubr.att.com!mvkrg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 18:50:20 1994
Subject: RE: one last question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>Has anyone dealt successfully with Performance Auto Warehouse
>in California? Waht is the quality of their parts and service, 
>and would you reommend them for engine rebuilding kits (i.e.
>gaskets, bearings, oil pumps, rings, and timing chains)?

They have two lines of products.  One seems to be off-brand and the other 
seems to be brand name.  I would only buy the brand name stuff so be 
careful about the large kits.

The last time I checked almost everything advertised was brand name.

Dirk

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Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 18:58:21 1994
Subject: Re: Quadrajet problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> 
> >:> The A/F-ratio goes rich at about 60 mph (oxygen sensor). What else 
> >could :>cause this apart from that lever? The secondaries aren't open 
> >yet. 
> >:>Otherwise engine power and response is good but this richening 
> >drops :>mileage to 14 mpg (city-60-75 mph). 
> > 
> >	I'm afraid that I don't know enough about Q-Jets to answer this 
> >	part, 
> >sorry. 

Someone suggested adjusting the float. Probably a good idea,
but it's very possible that the jet/metering rod combination
isn't optimum. Increasing the primary metering rod sizes will lean
out the A/F mixture. Metering rods also have different taper so that 
at different vacuum levels the amount of fuel that is let into the 
engine changes. So the correct metering rod is really important.

Also make sure that you have good vacuum, all the vacuum lines to the carb
are good. Another little trick is to take the spring  in the
sleeve where the metering rod cylinder sits and cut it or replace it
with a weaker spring. This effectively reduces the amount of vacuum required
to "sit down" the metering rod assembly. 


Rick


----------
Posted by: Rick Fisk 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Mon Apr 18 18:58:34 1994
Subject: Color-Sand / Buff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I am planning to do some color sanding on my car's paint job to try and remove
some defects that were introduced during the painting process (some orange peel
and some sand scratches that came through).  The paint is a metallic blue base
coat with a catalyzed urethane clear coat (Delthane) and is about one year old.
I will be using 1500 paper to do the sanding.  What I am looking for is
recommendations on what polishes and in what sequence to use to restore the
shine.  I already tried a small area which I tried to buff out (by hand) using
Meguires #7 Glaze.  The results were pretty good, but there is still a little
haze left over.  I suspect that I need something a little courser as a first
step.  Also, I heard that Meguires has an 800 number (help line), but I didn't
see it anywhere on the bottle of glaze.  If you have the number handy, could
you please pass it on.

Thanks


Paul
       ________
      /______ /    
            //          Paul Richer
        __ //_          paulr@lsid.hp.com
       /__ __/          Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
         //             '71 240Z <- 350 Chevy
        //______        '72 510
       /_______/        

----------
Posted by: Paul Richer 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Mon Apr 18 19:07:29 1994
Subject: Re:  easy engine questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>      
>      1. What are hardened valve seatss, and what does that
> 	do?
As the name implies they are hardened valve seats.  They are a response 
to unleaded gas.  Lead provides a cushioning for the valves.  Without 
lead or hardened seats the valve can receed into the head.  I am assuming you 
know where the valve seats are on a head, if not they are the place where 
the valve contacts the head down in the combustion chamber.

>      2. What is the main webbing of the block?
Possibly the area down around the mains.  Bottom of the engine.

>      3. What is Magnafluxing? 
A method of checking for cracks in engine components.  

>      4. What is a windage tray, and how does it increase
> 	horsepower?
A piece of metal that usually attaches to the main bearing bolts that keeps the 
crank out of direct contact with the oil.  Under operation it is possible that 
the crank could contact the oil and result in both whipping up the oil to a 
froth and a resultant extra drag on the reciprocating mass.  It really doesn't
increase horsepower as much as it removes a potential for a decrease in horse-
power.

>      5. What FAQ's exist for this newsgroup? I'm specifically
> 	looking for ones on cams, ignitions, and intake manifolds.
> 	Fali
> 	Failing that, I'd settle for a patient soul to answer 
> 	some questions.

ANything else? Email me.

Ed O'
edo@marcam.com




----------
Posted by: emory!marcam.com!edo (Ed Oriordan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 23:01:04 1994
Subject: RE: GM voltage regulation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>It may be that I do not understand the point of external voltage regulation.
>Seems like just another headache.  I have the chance to change to an 
>internally-regulated 55 amp alternator for about $30  This would let
>me discard the voltage regulator.  Should I do it?  All I can remember
>about these things ( regulators ) is that my father used to waste
>quite a bit of time on them.

I did the exact same thing on a '70 GTO.  The internally regulated 
alternator has 3 connections 1 is the output - (screw terminal) 1 is the 
field terminal (used to supply 12V to the alternator to generate an 
magnetic field - this makes the alternator work) and 1 to the "gen" light.
I simply connected the +12V to both the field and the + terminal.  Hind 
sight (10 years later) tells me that this might not be a good idea.  
Putting constant 12V on the field terminal may cause the battery to drain 
over time - this explains alot....  I would put the "field" terminal on a 
circuit that is on only during "run".

>More electrical questions.   The starter has a solenoid with S and R
>connections.  The S is Start -- thats easy to figure.  The R is Run?
>Supposedly to go to the + side of the coil.  I have HEI now ( and no
>ballast resistor ).  Can I successfully ignore the R post?
>I am running the - side of the coil to ground.  Any problem there?

When you have a ballast resistor the voltage to coil is reduced - this 
keeps you from burning your points out.  When you start the car the voltage 
is reduced anyway so to get a little boost you bypass the ballast resistor. 
 I'm not sure about the designations on the solenoid but one of those posts 
will provide 12V directly to the coil (via the "+" post) bypassing the 
ballast resistor.  This only happens during "start".  When in "run" the 
voltage goes through the ballast resistor.

I can't remember the specifics of the HEI but basically it will run with 
one wire.  Hook a 12V to the "+" side of the HEI and spin the HEI and you 
can generate a spark.  There is another terminal called "tach" this is the 
equivalent of the "-" post  on a standard coil.  This should not be 
grounded - doing so could cause problems to say the least.  As for 
providing a ground for the distributer - consider the engine block a ground 
and the distributer is directly connected to it.  
If your using a remote coil you must provide the coil with +12V, connect 
the "-" to the bottom of the distributer and provide the bottom with +12V.  
By bottom I mean the wire harness comming from the metal part of the 
distributer.

If not 1 wire to distributer for 12V and one wire for the tach.


>The ZZ3 uses a post '86-style starter.  I just took a look in the 
>book and tried one for a '88 305 Camaro.  It may work... can't tell
>right now because the starter will not crank the motor.  Likely
>a battery problem, because I could crank it by hand ( really by 
>screwdriver ).   The solenoid engages and the battery
>voltage drops to about 10 V.  Is a 305 starter fine?

Sounds like something is shorting out - perhaps the battery ground to the 
motor is not right.  Do you here it "click"?  To start the motor you need 
12V to the big post.  "-" should be hooked to the engine block and now 
shorting the 12V to the "S" or "R" post (I don't know which) will cause the 
starter to engage and turn the motor. To short the "S" or "R" to 12V they 
make remote starter switches (Sears for one has them).  Now run a wire to 
the +12V on the HEI and the motor should start.  BTW this is the old way to 
hotwire a car - before steering locks.

Double check your wiring - sounds like you amy have some problems.  
Remember a car is a low voltage high current system.  A little resistance 
in the wrong place and things won't work (check for good ground).  Too 
little resistance and things will smoke!
Some of the Chiltons for older cars contain schematics - with a little 
patience you should be able to follow them.  Beware of connectors they seem 
to label those anywhich way - I normally mark pins 1 and 2 on the drawing 
so that when I move from connector to connector I don't start tracing the 
wrong wire.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 18 23:43:51 1994
Subject: Regarding Holley Q-Jet replacements
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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I had some similar problems with my Holley Q-Jet Replacement carb, but it
turned out to be a simple thing to fix.  The problem was that the secondary
throttle blades would get stuck slightly open.  It would make the fuel
mixture go all to hell and would make the same whistling noise you described.
I forget how I fixed it, but it was very easy.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Tue Apr 19 00:04:12 1994
Subject: Re: One Last Question
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Regarding PAW  (Performance Automotive Wherehouse):  I think some of their
stuff is okay, but I know from experience that some of it is junk.  The
salesguys are nice while you're ordering, but they're rude if you need to
return something.  

I got chrome-moly oil pump drive shaft from them that was pure junk:  the
sleeve on the end was supposed to be permanently pinned to the shaft, but the
pin FELL OUT IN MY HAND.  It looked like some crap that an amateur would have
made in their garage shop.  Where the shaft was turned down, it looked like
they'd used a dull cutter.  The hole for the pin was obviously the wrong
size.  They were going to make me pay postage to get my $8.00 back. 

I also got some chrome parts from them that were also junk.  A chrome valve
cover breather was made out of two stamped sheet metal parts riveted loosely
together.  The part which goes into the breather bent right away -- trying to
straighten it made it crack into pieces.  A junk part, made of junk steel,
with "made in Taiwan" proudly posted on it.

I've had better luck with Summit -- mostly good quality, name brand parts.
I'd rather have some TRW rings than some mystery brand made-in-Taiwan rings
anyday.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Tue Apr 19 01:26:01 1994
Subject: RE: Camaro body mount kits
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    I have one quick question for everyone that I can't find an answer
    to......:  I'm restoring a '69 Camaro.  I have the subframe off and
    am planning to order a polygraphite bushing kit.  My question is
    how do I get sleeves?  All the companies say one must reuse his or
    her old sleeves.  2 problems- I disassembled the car two years ago, 
    and even if I still had the old bushings, they were completely rust-
    ed away.  Now, what do I do??  If I go GM, I need to pay $75 for
    original rubber bushings just to get the sleeves.  Most junk or parts
    cars will have equally bad sleeves.   Suggestions??  I NEED SLEEVES!!

Yes, scr*w the Poly Graphit stuff.  They will only cause binding in the 
suspension.  Basically after you bolt it together you will notice that the 
suspension will tend to stick in what ever position you tightened it.  
Furthermore poly urathane cold flows and supposidly doesn't keep its 
alignement very long.

Contact either Global West or Herb Adams (markets through Moroso).  They 
both sell nylon based bushings that are presleeved.  Global west sells all 
kinds of stuff to make the car handle.
They carry special bushings to mount the subframe to the body - and they 
sell subframe connectors to keep everything in line.  I have installed 
their subframe connectors (SFC's) on a '90 LX mustang and they have made a 
world of difference - its amazing how stiff they make the car.  Global west 
also sells kits to mount 12" disk brakes up front (LE1 disks) and they 
rebuild steering boxes - allowing you to get quicker ratio steering.  They 
believe in stiffening, then shocks, alignment tricks (negative camber and 
camber control), springs and then sway bars for the final tuning.

Herb Adams believes that the basic stock geometry is O.K. and likes stock 
springs for a soft ride - they are big on sway bars for that locked on 
rails feel.

Both absolutly positively recommend NOT using polyurathane.  Global West 
gives a limited lifetime warrantee on their bushings.

My dealings with both companies has been favorable.  Get their catalog.

If you can't find the number E-mail me.  I have the Global West one and I 
can find the Herb Adams one.

Dirk 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 04:26:13 1994
Subject: Re: GM voltage regulation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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The Hotrod List writes:
> I did the exact same thing on a '70 GTO.  The internally regulated 
> alternator has 3 connections 1 is the output - (screw terminal) 1 is the 
> field terminal (used to supply 12V to the alternator to generate an 
> magnetic field - this makes the alternator work) and 1 to the "gen" light.
> I simply connected the +12V to both the field and the + terminal.  Hind 
> sight (10 years later) tells me that this might not be a good idea.  
> Putting constant 12V on the field terminal may cause the battery to drain 
> over time - this explains alot....  I would put the "field" terminal on a 
> circuit that is on only during "run".
 
I did the same thing to my 67 Camaro.  You can get a connector/pigtail
for the GM internal-regulator alternator at Autozone.  The screw
terminal goes to the battery.  The big wire from the new connector
I ran to +12V I believe. The small wire will connect to the GEN light wire
that used to run to the regulator.  Without knowing better, it may seem
that the gen light connection isn't significant, but it is!  Unless
there is approx 10ohm resistance between this and switched +12V (in this
case, via the bulb), the alternator won't do anything.  I don't think I
had any trouble with the big wire going to battery +12V.  I don't
remember them exactly now, but I spent a lot of time looking at GM
wiring diagrams for the year of vehicle that my alternator came from.

Also, later model GM alternators (ie, like my 1991 truck) only use the
screwdown BAT terminal and the idiot light terminal.


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 13:01:51 1994
Subject: What Q-jet to buy?
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I posted a question about a week ago about how standard bore
Holley carbs compare to spreadbore Q-jets. 

Thanks to those who replied!

Most replies indicated that a properly tuned Q-jet will have 
the same performance than a Holley, but get better mileage. 
This sounds good to me, because this car is used as a daily 
driver from April to November.

What I thought I'd do is to buy an old Q-jet from a junkyard,
buy a good Q-jet book and take the carb apart piece by piece
and learning how it works. Then, if I still like the Q-jet, I
rebuild it and put it in my Camaro.

My question now is: What Q-jet should I look for? Here are some
specs on my car.

car...........1975 Camaro LT
engine........350 V8
Present carb..Holley PN 1850, 600cfm 4bbl standard bore
Intake........Edelbrock Performer (accepts spreadbore carbs)
Cam...........Summit 272/282 (214/224 @0.050) 442/462 lift.
Exhaust.......Headders, 2 1/2" exhaust until Trush glasspacks, 2 1/4 end pipes
Misc..........Compression bumped to 9.7:1 by replacing stock heads for 1970 heads.
              
Trans.........TH350 auto w/ shiftkit.

rear end......Stock 10bolt. 2.73 Posi.


Should I try to find a Q-jet that came from an early '70s Camaro??? Are all
Q-jets 650cfm??? What's the differance between the various carbs??? 

Help, please :)

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 13:13:42 1994
Subject: Re: What happened to all the auto parts stores?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article  Bob Hale hale@brooktree.com wrote:
:>jgd wrote:
:>What happened to all the real auto parts stores?

:>Locally, there are several big chain stores including Pep Boys and
:>Kragen.  I mostly gave up on Kragen; they no longer carry parts for
:>older vehicles - they cater only to the stuff that the yuppie wannabees
:>are driving.

:>Pep Boys still seems to be OK; I can ask for and get things like AC
:>spark plugs there.  They even have people behind the counter who will
:>take a part number instead of insisting on "make, model, and year".

	Around NJ, R&S Strauss fills the ripped cluebag bill.  I went in and
asked for Plastigage.  The droid looks at me blankly and says, very slowly
and thoughtfully, "Plastic guage."

	"No, `Plastigage'."

	The droid repeats, "Plastic guage."

	"No, `*Plastigage*'.  It's a little strip that you put in to measure
clearances by how much it crushes."

	Droid:  "I'm afraid we don't stock anything like that."

	Not yet ready to give up, I ask, "Okay, how about some pressure lube?"

	Droid:  "All of the lubricants I have are right over there," he says,
pointing to the rack of snake oil additives.

	Sigh.

	There *are* some good stores about 30 miles away:  Aid Auto, Buy-Wise,
Force Machinery, and a couple of others, plus one WAY overpriced jobber just
down the block from home, and a more reasonably priced jobber 15 miles away.

	It's enough to make you want to go into the biz. yourself just to
see it get done right.

	At least I can get AC spark plugs at K-Mart--one aisle down from the
Mobil 1 on sale at $3.47/quart.

:>The local Car Quest had folded up and vanished when I went looking
:>for them two weeks ago.  Turns out the whole chain has gone out of
:>business.  Groan.  They used to furnish me with things like Dorman's
:>thread adapters, 1/8 inch nylon pressure hose, compression rings
:>for tubing, etc.  When I ask for that sort of stuff at the Kragen's
:>store I get a blank look and a wave toward the HELP blister packs
:>which, of course, don't have anything useful in them.

:>Right now I would like to find a vacuum check valve that I can install
:>in a 1/4" neoprene hose.  An engine backfire took out the internal
:>check valve at the vacuum cannister and the cannister is a real dog
:>to get to so I thought that I would just find a vacuum valve that
:>I could install in-line.  Nobody comprehends what I want to do, or
:>they tell me that they haven't stocked parts for the innovator for
:>years.  A minimum order at the cheapest industrial suppliers is $50
:>and I'm sure not going to buy 200 check valves to get the one that
:>I need.

	Try McMaster-Carr supply company.  "No order too small".  Says so
right in the catalog.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 13:26:28 1994
Subject: GM voltage regulation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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-> It may be that I do not understand the point of external voltage
-> regulation. Seems like just another headache.

 External regulator alternator:  $20
 External regulator:             $13
.                               -----
.                                $33

 Internal regulator alternator:  $65
        
[I should also point out that most any external regulator you buy today
is in fact, electronic.  Even the one I recently bought for my 68 Fury
looked the same on the outside but contained a little PCB full of electronics
on the inside.  This was the Rockhill brand.  It regulates just as well as
the internal electronic regulators, is FAR easier to change if it ever
burns out and only cost $12.  The only reason I can see to convert over
to an internal regulator is if the extra wire(s) get in the way.  Custom
cars and race cars come to mind.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 13:38:25 1994
Subject: Stupid question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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	Where the heck is the filler opening on a TH400?


	Well, I warned you that it was a stupid question!

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 13:51:13 1994
Subject: Re: GM voltage regulation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>More electrical questions.   The starter has a solenoid with S and R
>connections.  The S is Start -- thats easy to figure.  The R is Run?
>Supposedly to go to the + side of the coil.  I have HEI now ( and no
>ballast resistor ).  Can I successfully ignore the R post?
>I am running the - side of the coil to ground.  Any problem there?

Yes, you should ignore the last post. This post is for supplying full
voltage to point-type coils during cranking. The HEI runs on full
voltage all the time (no ballast resistor) so this post is not used.


>On the bright side, the only things currently missing are spark plug and 
>wires, a few seat bolts, kick panel insulation and some specialty
>washers for the transmission mount....  Almost time to destroy some 
>tires.

He, he, keep us updated...

>Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
> Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
>  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
>   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 17:43:13 1994
Subject: Further GM Voltage Regulation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Thanks for the good posts, confirming what I suspected.  The system
is simple enought that something really obvious must be wrong -- I think
I have a dead battery.  Several things about this car have been quite
frustrating.  I'll probably get a battery and generic 55 or 63 amp 
internally regulated alternator today at lunch.  

As to the grounding, I know about ground problems.  I have been activly
working on that, so I am sure the only thing left can be the battery.

I spend time last night and found the remains of the "Sure Fire EnerBooster"
or something like that.  Essentially a secondary inductor to add a bit
more zap.  It was wired in with the coil, and explained fairly well
in the manual for the car ( yeah, I bought the repro manuals, too ).
That, and about 20' of wiring harness went into the trash can.  Still
would not start, but then I realized ( laying in bed ) I'd been something 
other than ground as a ground reference.

My loose plan is to get the alternator, HEI, manual override for 
Torque Converter lock, and additional footwell lights in today.  The latter
are really required in the black/black/black interior.  If I have time,
I'll put in a kill switch and override switches for the electric fans I have
not yet installed.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 17:58:19 1994
Subject: SU Carb Question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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	I am going to help someone re-build a 4-cylinder MGB engine
this summer. Currently, he wants headers, a larger cam, and the
engine is going to need a re-bore and new pistons. Tha car also
has dual SU/SUV (I don't remember the exact models he gave me)
1 bbl carbs, and he and I are wondering if there would be any
advantage to getting an aluminum manifold and either a new
2bbl or 4bbl carb. The only advantage I thought of was there
would be no trouble with synchronization with a new carb. Any
thoughts appreciated.

	Also, on a side note, anybody know where to obtain a
Chevy In-Line 6 supercharger? Just curious, but you never know :-)


						Jason

Experience varies directly with equipment ruined.

(jcborkow@eden.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!Jason,"6=8",Borkowsky
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 18:05:39 1994
Subject: Re: ignition timing 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article <0a65b!g@dixie.com>, The Hotrod List  wrote:
>The best way to find the max amount to advance the timing is to hook up
>a vacuum guage to a vacuum port on the intake. Then increase the timing
>to you get to the highest amount of vacuum you can get. Then try to
>start the motor. If the motor has a hard time turning over, then back
>off on the advance untill the starter will crank effeciently. By the
>way, don't forget that the motor must be at operating temperature.


First, I would like to preface my comments with the statement that I'm
not much of a mechanic and really don't often know what I'm doing.

However, I have tried the suggested timing technique and have concluded
that it isn't worth a hill of beans for my car.  I have a 1968 Buick
Electra convertible with a 10.25:1 430 in it, exactly stock, but
rebuilt.  When I tried the vacuum method, I found that my timing was
around 25-30 degrees BTDC at idle.  The car seemed to run sort of OK,
no bad pinging and all that, though it was sluggish off the line.
My mileage and power didn't seem to be affected.  This engine's stock
timing at idle is around 4 degrees.  I took it to what I consider to
be an excellent mechanic and he adjusted it to 12 degrees.  It drives
easier now because of the improved off-the-line acceleration.  I do
suspect that my distributor isn't working exactly like it should,
even though it was rebuilt.  I had a Jacob's Electronic ignition on
the car for a while, but I returned it because it didn't live up to
its claims.  Sure made the car idle smoother, but no other detectable
difference. 

By the way, I only get 9-10 mpg in town, 13 highway.  Everything, 
everything, everything under the hood has been rebuilt.  I know a
guy with the same car and he gets 16-17 mpg on the highway.  What
can I do to improve mileage?  I've tried a different ignition system,
timing adjustments of all kinds, carb adjustments.  Nothing seems
to help.  I haven't gone into the carb yet to put in smaller jets,
but will try that soon.
--
  /-------------------------------------------------------------------------/
 /         David W. Haile - Ft. Collins, Colorado - dhaile@csn.org         /
/-------------------------------------------------------------------------/

[The ported vacuum plumbed to the vacuum advance is designed to apply
extra advance to the engine during light load, medium speed engine
operation.  This works because the mixture is dilluted with exhaust gas
and the load is light; both conditions lead to slow flame propagation, thus
the engine can stand more advance.  The ported vacuum is achieved by
locating a small vacuum port such that it will be exposed to manifold
vacuum as the throttle first cracks.  As the throttle opens further,
the vacuum in the area is reduced and the signal goes away.  Ported
vacuum does not exactly match what the engine needs but like all mechanical
advance schemes, is an approximation that works OK.

A very generalized description on how to set up the timing is to set
the static timing to the lesser of either that point where the car will start 
readily without kicking back against the starter or a couple of
degrees retarded from that which gives the fastest idle.  Retarding the
timing a little gives better idle torque which makes taking off against
the clutch a bit easier.  Then set the mechanical advance so that there
is no pinging at wide open throttle and mid to high RPM.  Finally, set
the vacuum advance so that the engine doesn't ping while under light load
and while there is ported vacuum present (use a gauge).  

The amount of mechanical advance is set variously by the length of the
holes in the rotor or weight stops, depending on the distributor.  The
amount of vacuum advance is frequently set by a potted setscrew in the
end of the advance diaphram (typical of jap cars) or by bendable tabs
on the point/reluctor plate.  Or sometimes, not at all with fixed stops,
in which case, you must be innovative.  Doing it this way will give
you both the best power AND the best cruising economy.

JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!teal.csn.org!dhaile (David Haile)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 18:13:55 1994
Subject: Car Shows / Car Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I am a member of the Northern Mopars Auto Club.  Our members are mainly 
involved in restoring and/or racing their 1960's/1970's Chrysler muscle 
cars.  We have an annual Show 'n' Shine and swap meet.  Our club is 
headquartered in Calgary, Alberta, CANADA.

As you might guess, in Canada it's difficult to get your hands on good 
sheetmetal because of the winters.  I'd consider travelling to various 
wrecker locations in the U.S. if I was sure that I could get what I was 
looking for.

Is this the forum for searching for used car parts?  This would seem 
like the ideal environment for individuals searching for parts and those 
who have them or could suggest where to get them.

Any comments?

----------
Posted by: Mark Levorson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 18:21:09 1994
Subject: Re: easy engine questions
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Regarding machine shops, does anyone know any really good machine
shops in the Westchester County-New York City Area?  This could also
include northern New Jersey, lower Conneticut, or Long Island.

Thanks,  Herb Samuels 

----------
Posted by: Herb Samuels 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 18:32:03 1994
Subject: Re: Color-Sand / Buff
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> 
> I am planning to do some color sanding on my car's paint job to try and remove
> some defects that were introduced during the painting process (some orange peel
> and some sand scratches that came through).  The paint is a metallic blue base
> coat with a catalyzed urethane clear coat (Delthane) and is about one year old.
> I will be using 1500 paper to do the sanding.  What I am looking for is
> recommendations on what polishes and in what sequence to use to restore the
> shine.  I already tried a small area which I tried to buff out (by hand) using
> Meguires #7 Glaze.  The results were pretty good, but there is still a little
> haze left over.  I suspect that I need something a little courser as a first
> step.  Also, I heard that Meguires has an 800 number (help line), but I didn't
> see it anywhere on the bottle of glaze.  If you have the number handy, could
> you please pass it on.
> 
> Thanks
> 

Best bet is to get a couple of the Meguiars foam buffing pads and a low speed
( <2000 rpm ) buffer.  Start with the #2 compound which is meant for the high
tech clear coats. Move slowly and allow the compound / buffer to do the work.
If you're new to this, tape any sharp edges that might hang up the buffing 
wheel and burn. With the foam pads, the biggest problem is shredding the pad
when it hits an edge. Anyway, use the #2 compound until you can no longer see
any dull areas or sanding scratches. Switch pads and move to the #7 glazing
material. Move a little faster and work until a very high gloss is achieved.
If you wish, you can then use the #9 material to remove swirls, although the
#7 leaves very few. Hand wax and you're finished. Remember to do all of the
above inside or in the shade. A hot surface will cause mucho problems.

Some times it is difficult to get the sanding scratches out with the #2. The
car will look great out in the sun, but under the lights will still exhibit
an unsatisfactory finish. If this is the case, you may need to start with the
#1 Meguiars compound. Just be careful, this is an agressive material that can
take off paint in a hurry. A little preventative medicine is to use a hand
sanding pad with a bucket of water that has a few drops of dishwashing liquid 
added to it. Rinse the wetordry paper and foam sanding pad regularly to get rid
of the sanding slag. Also make sure the car is sparkling clean before you start
to sand. Any grit that is on the surface will create a scratch the size of the
Grand Canyon. Buffing out deep scratches completely is near impossible.

Finally, I'm a big fan of 3M Company products, but their 1000 and 1500 grit 
sandpapers can be very inconsistent. IMHO I've had a lot better results using
either Norton or Meguiars sandpaper. 

Tech tip: After extended use, the edges of the foam pads can become very ragged.
You can recondition them a couple of times by doing the following. Set up the
buffer in a vise with the pad facing up. Lock the trigger in the on position.
With the pad turning, take a hacksaw blade and draw it from the outer edge of
the pad toward the center. This will slice off a thin, pancake-like section of 
the foam and expose a nice, new surface with a clean edge out at the perimeter
of the pad. You can usually do this a couple of times before discarding the
wheel. Good luck!


----------
Posted by: emory!halnet.com!vcook (Vic Cook 3068)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 18:50:15 1994
Subject: Re: Camaro body mount kits
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#    I have one quick question for everyone that I can't find an answer
#    to......:  I'm restoring a '69 Camaro.  I have the subframe off and
#    am planning to order a polygraphite bushing kit.  My question is
#    how do I get sleeves?  All the companies say one must reuse his or
#    her old sleeves.  2 problems- I disassembled the car two years ago, 
#    and even if I still had the old bushings, they were completely rust-
#    ed away.  Now, what do I do??  If I go GM, I need to pay $75 for
#    original rubber bushings just to get the sleeves.  Most junk or parts
#    cars will have equally bad sleeves.   Suggestions??  I NEED SLEEVES!!
#                  Thanks for any help.
#                                      mvkrg@mvubr.att.com
#                                         Paul

You have two options. Pay through the nose for them, or make them! 

(Dave is with us on the second response... :')

We had the same problem when we did the frame off resto on the '65 GTO. We
used washers and tubing as material stock and the mig gun for the fabrication 
technique... for the rubber mounts we used (what else) Hockey pucks! They cost
a dollar a peice when bought in bulk, and don't fag out like the rubber mounts.

Easy to drill and shape also. (we stuck the puck in a wood lathe and put the 
buldge in them...)

For rubber mount ordering:
just tell the guy at the sports counter that you are starting a pee-wee team, 
and he'll throw in a lift kit (extra pucks) or won't charge you full price. :')

My $.02 worth...

-dan a.
dhoward@stratus.com

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 18:57:42 1994
Subject: CA or NY emmissions
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Do the cars made for CA or NY have a label anywhere on the car stating that
they are so equipped with the more stringent emissions controls?
I am involved with the governments employee trip reduction program
(another way for uncle Sam to stop our driving freedom) at the University
and there are special credits for "low emissions" and "transitional low
emission" vehicles and I assume that means Ca or Ny emission cars??
They don't mean Zero emission (electric) or "ultra low emission" whatever
that means.  The government has a way of confusing everything.
Could someone clear this up?

Thanks, Frank

[Replies off-line, please.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 22:42:07 1994
Subject: Re: What Q-jet to buy?
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In article <1695ygq@dixie.com> you write:
>My question now is: What Q-jet should I look for? Here are some
>specs on my car.
>

Grab a quadrajet from anything that has the choke you like (manifold 
mounted or integral).  Newer quadrajets have a more refined part 
throttle circuit, even newer quadrajets have dancing needles for 
use with a closed loop computer controlled system.

Other minor problems - the idle adjusment caps, secondary opening
restriction, etc.  are easy to take care of.  In any case, you'll
want to rejet it and play with the metering rods, power valve
to get an optimal air/fuel mix - so the starting point won't be 
too important.

>Are all Q-jets 650cfm??? 

As far as I know, none of them are.  Quadrajets come in little (750 CFM)
and bigger (800 CFM) sizes, with the additional flow coming from slightly
larger primaries.  Where a smaller quadrajet was wanted, the 750 was  a tang
was used on the air dam, keeping it from opening all the way and restricting 
flow to 590 CFM.

>What's the differance between the various carbs??? 

Power valve, jetting, venting is slightly different, choke mounting
location, anti diesel solenoid or not, etc.  Basically, the differences
are all minor.

----------
Posted by: Drew Eckhardt 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 23:08:03 1994
Subject: Re: SU Carb Question 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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He can probably do quite well with the SU carbs that are there,
possibly with a needle change. SUs are simple to operate and tune, and
synchronization isn't really too much of a pain. The biggest worry is
whether or not the throttle shaft bushings are worn.

Pick up a copy of Vizard's "tuning the A series engine" - the engine in
the B is essentially a 1.5x magnification of the A series. The exact
dimensional details won't apply, but all the theory will.

There are lots of B experts hanging out on the British Cars list; try
british-cars-request@autox.team.net for a subscription. I can think of
half a dozen people there who will be able to give an exact recipe for
a hot street B (down to head castings, rods and pistons, not to mention
needles) off the top of their heads. (Does your friend have to worry
about smog laws?)

----------
Posted by: "Christopher A. Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 23:27:39 1994
Subject: Q: about rebuilding and plugwires
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hello all,

I've been reading the posts in a.h for a while and am very impressed
with the quality of the messages. I hope that the following questions
are not completely out of the scope of this forum. Oh, let me mention
what kind of car I am talking about. An '87 Merkur XR4Ti which has
the Ford 140 engine with a turbo charger. The 140 is a 2.3 liter
4 cylinder SOHC engine. Engine control is through an EEC-IV with
ported fuel injection.

The problem I have been having for a while is that off and on the
engine will become rough, lacking willingness to go into the high rpm 
range. I have replaced/checked all major components of the ignition
including a new magnetic pickup in the distributor. Oh, the tach is
knda flaky too, every now and then it will give a reading much lower
than what you'd expect, hardly ever coming over 3000 rpms. I realize
the tach may be busted but I took it out and resoldered all connections
on the circuit board. No difference. Oh, EEC-IV self test reveals no
errors.

Finally, questions:

I currently use custom Accell plug wires that I cut the the exact size
I need. I still doubt that carbon-core wires are good enough for my
application (lots of heat and vibration, ignition is a known weak spot
on this car) and was wondering if anyone has phonenumbers for better
wires. Preferably some that have a steel core but still have good RF
suppression (with a magnetic core ?).

Anyone know a good/reliable place in the San Jose/ Bay Area where I can
have my engine rebuilt? Things I should ask for?
Compression is good but I still suspect the valves/rings after doing
some vacuum tests.

I tried testing the ignition with a regular scope but found it very
difficult to reach any conclusions on consistency of the ignition
pulses (I am afraid it sometimes 'forgets' to fire). Any suggestions?


thanks very much for your patience and any answers,


	Sander Pool

Mountain View	CA

----------
Posted by: emory!veritas.com!sander (Sander Pool)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 23:40:45 1994
Subject: Will Q-jet bolt on without adapter?
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I have an Edelbrock Performer manifold on 
a 390 AMC. I am using a Holley 3310 750 Vac.
This carby is a Squarebore. 

Will the Q-jet (being a spreadbore??) fit straight
on without a spreadbore-squarebore adapter?? 
(The adapter is not recommended by the local engine
builder).

I think that my Edelbrock Perfomer has two sets of
carby bolt paterns on it but I didn't know what the 
extra one is for? -maybe for spreadbore carbs?


John Tsimbinos
Signal Processing Research Institute
Uni of South Australia
Australia

----------
Posted by: emory!spri.levels.unisa.edu.au!johnt (John Tsimbinos)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Apr 19 23:52:09 1994
Subject: Connecting Rods
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Howdy Hot Rodders!

	I have a question concerning connecting rods, and while its not 
pertaining to a V-8, maybe ya'll could give me a little insight.

I'm building a supercharged engine for my BMW 2002, and am interested in 
replacing the factory rods with something heavier.  The factory rods are 
a shallow I-Beam design, are shot peened, and have an average rockwell C 
hardness value of 24.  They're plenty strong, the problem is that they're 
heavy...719 grams each. (I'm guessing that they're forged from some 1000 
series steel)

I need to find a lighter and equally strong rod.  My question is if 
anyone knows whether or not the "good"  rod companies like Carrillo, 
Oliver, Childs&Albert, Eagle, etc.  will make a rod to my specs, for a 
reasonable price?  

This is a motor that will likely see 8000 rpm, and 14 psi of boost.  I will 
probably be using forged racing pistons, to keep the reciprocating 
mass down to a minimum.

I'd love to hear any comments on these companies, and any others that I 
might have left out.  Thanks a bunch! (I want to know who makes a "good rod)

Erik
1968 BMW 2002 
(Looking for 300 hp. out of 2000cc on pump gas!)

----------
Posted by: The_Mechanic 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 00:56:01 1994
Subject: The end is Near
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This is going out to all my mailing lists at once.

I am leaving Marietta in the near future and when I do, I will be
pulling the plug on dixie.com as it exists now.  I realized some
time back that I really intensely hate computers and getting rid of
dixie will complete the purging of my life of computers.  I anticipate
completely disconnecting from the net, though I may have a little end-node
at some point in the future.

The impact on these mailing lists is obvious.  It is time for me
to hand them off to others.  I am therefore looking for new homes
for these lists.

The ideal home would involve someone who has root access to his host,
has plenty of disk space, is reliable, is well connected and who will
continue the spirit of the lists.  I will, of course, settle for less :-)

If you think you might be interested in hosting one or more of these
lists, please don't dawdle because when the time comes, I will simply
pull the plug regardless.  I anticipate the time coming within the 
next 30 days.

John


-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
"If we let this leak, it'll just kill him"  Clinton about Vince Foster

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 04:00:11 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
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In article  you wrote:

: -> Has anyone used those intake manifold gaskets that have screens
: -> across the intake openings.  They are supposed to increase something
: -> like 15 HP by helping the fuel to stay atomized.
: ->
: -> I just saw these in a Summit catalog.  Is this just snake oil??

:  I have a Hot Rod Engine Annual somewhere with a dyno test of them; they
: claimed they worked.  On the other hand I have an old Popular Science
: with an EPA test of a very similar product, and the EPA said it was BS.
: Personally, I'd guess they might help the idle and low end on an engine
: that was overcammed and had low intake velocity, but if you're built to
: that point, you probably don't *care* about idle quality.


: -> I have to change the intake manifold gaskets on the '88 corvette, due
: -> to a coolant leak, and thought I would use these gaskets if they
: -> work.

:  Considering the water-drooling problems the late Corvettes have, I'd
: seriously consider buying the new, uprated gaskets from Chevrolet, or at
: the very least a premium name-brand gasket.
:                                                                    

: ----------
: Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
Excuse me,  But the '88 Corvette is an L98 Tuned Port Fuel Injection 
engine.  The gaskets discussed were to fit between the carburetor and the 
intake manifold.  That Ain't gonna work on a late model 'Vette.

John Hess

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!johnhess (John Hess)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 04:07:15 1994
Subject: Source for pressure switch & solenoid
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I'm looking for a source for a couple of parts for a homemade intercooler
sprayer.  Specifically, a solenoid that will close and prevent siphoning
when it is not in use, and a pressure switch that will activate the
sprayer when a preset boost level is reached.  Spearco sells a switch that
will do the trick for activation, but it costs $36.  I'm hoping to find
something cheaper.

Thanks,

Eric Typpo
etyppo@garnet.acns.fsu.edu

----------
Posted by: Eric Typpo 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 04:13:03 1994
Subject: Stupid question
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-> Where the heck is the filler opening on a TH400?
-> Well, I warned you that it was a stupid question!

 Is this your first automatic, Chris?  

 If this is your Buick, there should be a 3/4" steel tube near the back
passenger (right) side of the engine, with a curled piece of 1/4" sheet
metal sticking out as a handler.

 Possible problems:
a) no handle
b) no handle, and no tube either

 Checking the fluid is a little more complicated than just yanking the
stick and looking.  Some transmissions require the engine be running,
others running and in Drive, presumably with someone holding the brake.
Look for a sticker under the hood, or check a service manual.

 There's about a 10:1 chance you don't have a *drain* plug.  I guess GM
thought they were saving money.  Proper procedure is to remove all the
bolts, lever the pan off with a screwdriver, and hope you don't get a
bath in ATF.  Well, at least it doesn't smell as bad as hypoid.
        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 04:18:50 1994
Subject: Re:  Stupid question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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Chris BeHanna asks where the filler is on a T400: the dipstick
tube is used for filling.  The tube mounts into the transmission
case in the right front corner of the case.  The dipstick tube
opening is just forward of the firewall and about the same height
as the carb/FI.

Note that there are two different pans - one shallow and one deep.
They both use the same fill level and the same dipstick; the deeper
one just holds more fluid.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!tesla.is!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 13:00:47 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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> Excuse me,  But the '88 Corvette is an L98 Tuned Port Fuel Injection
> engine.  The gaskets discussed were to fit between the carburetor and the
> intake manifold.  That Ain't gonna work on a late model 'Vette.

> John Hess

Actually these gaskets in question are intake manifold gaskets (the ones that
go between the intake and the head.)  What they do is put a screen in between
the two sheets that makeup the gasket so that the screen covers the intake
port on the head.  That way, when air/fuel that has turned back into droplets
on it's way down the intake runners hits the screen it breaks up into finer
droplets again, making combustion slightly more efficient (supposedly.)

>From what I hear they are both good/bad:  Good in that they help the low end
and idle quality somewhat, but bad in that at high RPM they begin to restrict
flow somewhat.  But, I have no first hand experience with them so YMMV, and
as I don't really care that much about idle quality (hey, I like LUMPY :) :) )
I'm not going to find out too soon...

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 13:16:10 1994
Subject: Re:easy engine questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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#Regarding machine shops, does anyone know any really good machine
#shops in the Westchester County-New York City Area?  This could also
#include northern New Jersey, lower Conneticut, or Long Island.
#
#Thanks,  Herb Samuels 
#

You have one of the best machine shops in that area... If you are looking 
for high performance racing engines or hardcore racing parts. 

Bill Mitchell
35 trade zone drive
Ronkonkoma Ny 11779

(516) 737-0372

-dan a.

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 13:33:31 1994
Subject: Car Shows / Car Parts
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Mark Levorson wrote:
> 
> As you might guess, in Canada it's difficult to get your hands on good 
> sheetmetal because of the winters.  I'd consider travelling to various 
> wrecker locations in the U.S. if I was sure that I could get what I was 
> looking for.

  Mark,

  You might also want to consider events such as the Carlisle Collector Car
Flea Markets in Carlisle, PA... "82 acres of automotive excitement". Kind of
short notice for the spring event... it runs from 4/21 to 4/24, but there are
summer and fall events also. Carlisle is the largest automotive flea market in
the world, and it features more parts and accessories dealers, private vendors,
and cars for sale than you have EVER seen in one place. It's really quite
amazing! You can call Carlisle Productions at (717) 243-7855 for more info. 
They could probably send you a directory which lists all the vendors, sorted by
their type of service or the make/model they specialize in.

Happy hunting...
Dave 

[Another wonderful place which has a lot more southern cars, some of which
have never seen salt, is the Daytona Turkey Trot over the Thanksgiving
weekend.  It fills up the Daytona Speedway and is a wonderful show.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!amp.com!dave.miller (Dave Miller)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 13:42:09 1994
Subject: Re:  SU Carb Question
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> 	I am going to help someone re-build a 4-cylinder MGB engine
> this summer. Currently, he wants headers, a larger cam, and the
> engine is going to need a re-bore and new pistons. Tha car also
> has dual SU/SUV (I don't remember the exact models he gave me)
> 1 bbl carbs, and he and I are wondering if there would be any
> advantage to getting an aluminum manifold and either a new
> 2bbl or 4bbl carb. The only advantage I thought of was there
> would be no trouble with synchronization with a new carb. Any
> thoughts appreciated.

I had a 70 mg midget with dual SUs.  They are a bitch to tune, not only 
that but you have to balance them.  I finally ripped the whole thing out
and put in a new manifold with a Weber 2bbl.  I was much happier.  It was 
easy to tune (no balancing) and the engine ran stronger.

Ed O'
edo@marcam.com



----------
Posted by: emory!marcam.com!edo (Ed Oriordan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 13:46:30 1994
Subject: Mating a DN 5-speed to a NP205
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Did some research the other day:

The DN 5-speed (they have a version for 4-wheel drive PN7021703) has a 27 
or 28 spline output shaft (I think 28 - fits with all the other DN trannies
).  The NP205 for the big Saginaw 4xx trans ( you know the 3speed + granny 
low) has a 10 spline input shaft.

So what can I do?
Advanced adapters (seeming a very knowledgable company BTW - good tech 
support) suggest they have an adapter but it requires the NP205 for the 
TH350.  You need the TH350's tail shaft / housing to complete the operation
.  They also mentioned I could change the input spline count of the NP205 
with a replacement gear / shaft assembly (Boarder Auto Parts).  Now my 
question is this - 

If both the DN 5-speed and the NP205 have a 28 spline 1 1/8" input and 
output shaft - wouldn't I be able to modify the current transfer case to 
tranny adapter to work with the new set up?

Stock:
NP205          Tranny
 ---          --------
|   |--------|        |
|   | -----  |        |
|   |--------|        |
|   |         --------
|   |
 ---

Where the mating between the two shafts is accomplished by a sleeve going 
over both shafts.

Modified:
NP205          Tranny
 ---           -----------
|   |--------||           |
|   | -----  ||           |
|   |--------||           |
|   |          -----------
|   |
 ---         ^
             |
           Adapter - 1/2 aluminum  or steel plate machined for counter sunk 
screws where necessary. A slighly longer sleeve for better thread 
ingagement.

This would require shortening the rear drive-shaft and lengthening the 
front one.  This is not a problem since I don't have a lift kit or anything


From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 14:35:01 1994
Subject: Re: Car Shows / Car Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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On Apr 19,  4:02pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: Car Shows / Car Parts
> like the ideal environment for individuals searching for parts and those 
> who have them or could suggest where to get them.
> 

Mark, may I recommend the Pamona Swap Meet in the LA area.  The next one
happens to be this weekend, Sunday April 24th at the LA County Fairgrounds
on Pamona, right on Interstate 10 on the eastern edge of LA County.

One of my Auto Wrecking customers is all mopar here in San Diego, especially
older stuff.
Give Ervin Rubey(Rube) a call at 619 475-1005 at Sweetwater Auto Wreckers
in Spring Valley, Ca. It is a suberb of San Diego.Cheers.Mike



-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 14:50:33 1994
Subject: Re: Will Q-jet bolt on without adapter?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8321
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In article sj05c7a@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>I have an Edelbrock Performer manifold on 
>a 390 AMC. I am using a Holley 3310 750 Vac.
>This carby is a Squarebore. 
>
>Will the Q-jet (being a spreadbore??) fit straight
>on without a spreadbore-squarebore adapter?? 
>(The adapter is not recommended by the local engine
>builder).
>
>I think that my Edelbrock Perfomer has two sets of
>carby bolt paterns on it but I didn't know what the 
>extra one is for? -maybe for spreadbore carbs?
>
>
>John Tsimbinos
>Signal Processing Research Institute
>Uni of South Australia
>Australia

I think all Performer manifolds accept spreadbore carbs. I know my performer
for small chevy does. If you have the carb off and take a look at the manifold,
you should see that the front and rear part of the carb mounting flange are
not symmetrical. In this case, it's intended for a spreadbore. If it's just
a rectangle, it's intended for square bore (ie Edelbrock performer RPM, Torker,
Victor JR etc).

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 20 14:56:54 1994
Subject: re:Pressure switch
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8322
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>Subject: Source for pressure switch & solenoid
>
>
>I'm looking for a source for a couple of parts for a homemade intercooler
>sprayer.  Specifically, a solenoid that will close and prevent siphoning
>when it is not in use, and a pressure switch that will activate the
>sprayer when a preset boost level is reached.  Spearco sells a switch that
>will do the trick for activation, but it costs $36.  I'm hoping to find
>something cheaper.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Eric Typpo
>etyppo@garnet.acns.fsu.edu

You might try Jacobs. I have one of there Turbo timers which retards timing
at a certain boost level. They have a switch with a fixed boost level and
one with an adjustable boost level.

-Dean

dwaters@interbase.borland.com


----------
Posted by: Dean Waters 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 00:53:31 1994
Subject: Spring Carlisle
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8323
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I'm going to the Spring Carlisle this weekend. Anybody going to be there, or 
have a car displayed that I should look for? 

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 00:58:38 1994
Subject: Source for solenoid and pressure switch
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8324
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


Does anybody know where I could obtain (hopefully cheaply) some parts for
a homemade intercooler sprayer.  I need a solenoid that will close and
prevent siphoning from occuring when the sprayer is not functioning, and a
pressure sensitive switch that would be used to activate the sprayer when some
preset boost level is reached. (Spearco sells such a switch but wants $36 for
it).

Thanks,

Eric Typpo
etyppo@garnet.acns.fsu.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!garnet.acns.fsu.edu!etyppo (Eric Typpo)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 01:14:38 1994
Subject: Re: Car Shows / Car Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8325
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

re: the following list - yes, basically this is the place (or one of them)
    to ask questions - most of the people here work on their cars - have 
    questions about cars - need and/or are selling parts - know where to
    find parts, service, etc

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 01:20:49 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8326
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The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: This is going out to all my mailing lists at once.

: I am leaving Marietta in the near future and when I do, I will be
: pulling the plug on dixie.com as it exists now.  I realized some
: time back that I really intensely hate computers and getting rid of
: dixie will complete the purging of my life of computers.  I anticipate
: completely disconnecting from the net, though I may have a little end-node
: at some point in the future.

  Well, I won't at the obvious question(WHY?). I'd like to see the hotrod
list transition over to being just a USENET newsgroup. Maybe Dave Williams
could take over the reigns.

    Brian
-- 
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
The right of the people...                  |  cypress@hebron.connected.com
...shall not be inhibited: WA Constitution  |  finger me for PGP 2.3a key
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------

[There is already a "hotrod" group on the net, rec.autos.rod-n-custom.
As with most non-moderated groups, the information content is near zero.
The membership on this list hovers between 200 and 300 people plus those
who read alt.hotrod and those on remailer lists so there is a demand for
a moderated hotrod list.  Also contemplate that a third or more of the
readers on this list are NOT on the internet (aol, compu$erve, etc).  

As to why i'm shutting down, I don't mind telling. here's what I wrote
in answer to this question on the Z-car list.
----

There are several factors at work.  First and foremost, I hate admining
computers and I'm beginning to hate admining mailing lists.  Every
person who sends mail to me or to z-car@dixie.com asking to be added to
the list probably does it innocently but the load adds up.  Rather than
do the job poorly or get snappish with people, I realize it is time to
move along.  

The next consideration is the fact that the lovely
backwater area of Tennessee where I'm moving assuming my real estate
deal goes through never heard of no information highway.  There's not an
Internet node within a 100 mile radius.  Doing this list by long
distance dial-up is just flat out of the question.  I thought about
finding a closet somewhere here in Atlanta in which to park dixie.com
but I really just want out.  My interests are elsewhere.  I'm really
enjoying working with my wife in her glass art studio (I'm getting to be
pretty good at glass blowing) and I've launched a Bar-B-Que catering
service which is a blast.  Notice how none of this has anything to do
with computers?  :-) It is delightfully low tech.  After a few months of
decompression, I may turn dixie.com back on as my personal email node
but I won't be running a mailing list of any sort.  Long distance,
remember?

JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!hebron.connected.com!cypress (BCL)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 01:27:07 1994
Subject: Help with '74 Z28 parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8327
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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		I am currently rebuilding a '74 Z28 and having a terrible time finding
some parts.  If someone out there could tell me where to find '74-'77 Z28
headlight bezels and '74-'77 Tail Lights, I would greatly appreciate it. 
The headlight bezels are the black ones with the chrome trim. GM has
stopped shipping them to Year One, Classic Industries, etc.  They would
have to be at some other specialty shop or personally owned.

					Thanks Stan

E-Mail address:  stan.wilson@mcmail.vanderbilt.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!macpost.Vanderbilt.Edu!JSWilson (Stan Wilson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 01:32:51 1994
Subject: 63 Nova frontend...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8328
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I need to upgrade the brakes on the fronend of my nova. I currantly
have drum brakes, but would like to upgrade to a disc setup. I'm sure
I'll need to change everything from the backing plate out. What car is
a good donar candidate for this? Also, I would like to get rid of the
currant steering setup, and maybe go to a rack and pinion setup so I
won't have to use the special Milidon(sp) pan for the 350. Has anyone
out there tried this? Thanks...
-- 
*******************************************************************************
*                                                         Gary Berry          *
*                                                         gberry@llnl.gov     *
*******************************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!wolverine.llnl.gov!berry (Gary Berry @ IDP)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 01:39:08 1994
Subject: GM Starter Solenoids
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8329
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


My electrical gremlins may be related to my solenoid, but I am not sure.  I
took the solenoid off the '64 starter ( really a '67 283 ) and put it on
the '88 Camaro starter I bought.  Devilishly difficult and dreary times last
night prooved that it does not work, not even with a new battery.  

Today I went to look at a new solenoid.  Indeed the '88 is different.
But just a bit.  Anybody know if I will waste more time looking at
this?  Yes, the starter spins very well out of the car.  The symptom is
that the solenoid engages, pushs out the ( is it Bendix? ) gear, and 
everything stops.  The ZZ3 has a 153 tooth flexplate; anybody know what
an AT '88 Camaro has?  Does it really matter here?

In my experience, the starter would just damage the flexplate if there
was a tooth-count problem.  Is it likely that I have a newly-rebuilt
bad starter?  I am almost at the end of my guesses.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 01:44:48 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8330
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


-> Excuse me,  But the '88 Corvette is an L98 Tuned Port Fuel Injection
-> engine.  The gaskets discussed were to fit between the carburetor and
-> the intake manifold.  That Ain't gonna work on a late model 'Vette.

 Nope, someone (McFarland?) is making the manifold-to-head gaskets with
the screens now.  They'll work on any Chevy small block.
                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 12:35:53 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-16*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8331
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

Now in its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation of 
info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, my 
favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE confirm dates and 
times with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated no later than every Friday morning and will 
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your 
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day 
window.

As mentioned previously, this listing is now being submitted to the new 
group rec.autos.sport.info.  Assuming the moderators approve, this list 
will be available in the r.a.s.i group from now on.  In an attempt to get 
the word to as many r.a.s readers as possible, I will continue to cross-
post to r.a.s for a short time. (This again assumes the moderators of 
r.a.s.i do not object to my doing so.)

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Movie: Duel                           04/21    1:05-3:05PM      TBS
AMA, SUPERBIKE DIVISION, PHOENIX (T)  04/21    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
MotorSports Hour                      04/21    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
Power Wheels                          04/21    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/21    8:00-9:00PM      ? *
MotorWeek                             04/21    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (SD)   04/21   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
Motoworld                             04/22    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
AMA, SUPERBIKE DIVISION, ATLANTA (T)  04/22    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 04/22    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld II                          04/22    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          04/23    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN2
Secrets Of Speed                      04/23    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 04/23    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (emission controls)04/23    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             04/23    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
NASCAR DASH SERIES, MARTINSVILLE (L)  04/23    2:00-3:30PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/23    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/23    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/23    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING, SEATTLE (T)     04/23    3:30-4:30PM      ESPN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/23    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
AMA, 125cc SUPERCROSS, DAYTONA (T)    04/23    4:00-5:30PM      TNN
MotorWeek (BMW 840Ci & Sonata)        04/23    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
USAC SPRINTS, VENTURA (T)             04/24    12:30-2:00AM     ESPN
SpeedWeek                             04/24    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             04/24    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
NASCAR DASH SERIES, MARTINSVILLE (T)  04/24    3:30-5:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             04/24    6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/24    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/24    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Warren Johnson)  04/24    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (L)          04/24    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/24    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           04/24   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (L)         04/24    12:00-3:30PM     ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty               04/24    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Warren Johnson)  04/24    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
ASA, DENVER (L)                       04/24    3:00-5:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (L)          04/24    5:00-5:30PM      TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS, ATLANTA (L) 04/24    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/24    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (emission controls)04/24    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/24    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/24    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           04/24    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      04/24    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               04/24   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    04/25    12:00-12:05AM    TNN
COPPER WORLD CLASSIC, PHOENIX (T)     04/25    12:05-1:30AM     TNN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Japan)           04/25    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/25    2:00-2:30AM      TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS, ATLANTA (T) 04/25    2:30-3:00AM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (T)         04/25    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Power Wheels                          04/25    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 04/25    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
SAAB PRO SERIES, SEBRING (T)          04/26    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (T)         04/26    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
Power Wheels                          04/26    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, PHOENIX (T)          04/27    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
USAC SPRINTS, VENTURA (T)             04/27    1:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Japan)           04/27    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
Power Wheels                          04/27    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, PHOENIX (T)          04/28    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
AMA, SUPPORT DIVISION, PHOENIX (T)    04/28    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
IHRA, WINTER NATIONALS, DARLINGTON (T)04/28    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Motor Sports Hour                     04/28    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 04/28    5:00-5:30PM      HTS*
Power Wheels                          04/28    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (T) 04/28    7:30-8:30PM      HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    04/28    8:00-9:00PM      ? *
This Week On Pit Road                 04/28    8:30-9:00PM      HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 04/28    9:00-10:00PM     HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     04/28    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (SD)   04/28   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
Motoworld                             04/29    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
M.T. OFF-ROAD SERIES, SEATTLE (T)     04/29    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Power Wheels                          04/29    1:00PM           ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 04/29    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld II                          04/29    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          04/30    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN2
SAAB PRO SERIES, ATLANTA (T)          04/30    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed                      04/30    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

ARCA, TALLADEGA (L)                   04/30    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, ROUGEMONT (L)               04/30    5:00-7:30PM      TNN
FORMULA 1, SAN MARINO (L)             05/01    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON SELECT, CHARLOTTE (L)         05/01    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            05/01    2:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, LOUDON (?)                  05/07    tba              tba
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, SONOMA (L)          05/14    4:30PM           ESPN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, POLE DAY (L) 05/14    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, MONACO (L)                 05/15    9:20AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
ASA, TOLEDO (L)                       05/15    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, SEARS POINT (L)          05/15    4:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (T)               05/15    tba              ABC
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 2ND DAY (L)  05/15    3:00PM       ESPN,TSN
NHRA, MID-SOUTH NATIONALS (?)         05/15    tba              tba
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/18   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/19   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/20   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, THE WINSTON, CHARLOTTE(L)05/21    tba              TNN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 3RD DAY (L)  05/21    5;00PM       ESPN,TSN
BUSCH GN, NAZARETH (?)                05/22    tba              tba
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 4TH DAY (L)  05/22    4:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, ENGLISHTOWN (?)      05/22    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, CHARLOTTE (?)               05/28    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, SPAIN (L)                  05/29    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
INDIANAPOLIS 500 (L)                  05/29   11:00AM-3:30PM    ABC
WINSTON CUP, CHARLOTTE (L)            05/29    5:00PM           TBS
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/01   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/02   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/03   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (L)                   06/04    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (L)                06/05    12:10PM          TNN
INDYCAR, MILWAUKEE (L)                06/05    4:00-6:00PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, MYRTLE BEACH (?)            06/11    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    2:00-4:00PM  ESPN,CBC
INDYCAR, DETROIT (L)                  06/12    2:00-4:30PM      ABC [1]
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               06/12    12:30PM          TNN
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (T)                06/12    tba              ABC
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, KIRKERSVILLE(?)06/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             06/19    1:00PM           CBS
BUSCH GN, WATKINS GLEN (?)            06/25    tba              tba
ASA, BRAINERD (L)                     06/26    tba              TNN
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (L)                 06/26    4:00-6:30PM      ESPN [1]
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (?)           06/26    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races (the Indy 500 & Long 
Beach will not be shown this year).  The races are usually broadcast on a 
tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening following the race.  I 
understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to delay the broadcast as much 
as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so please use extra caution if you 
plan to tape the race.  If you have access to it, and your French isn't 
too rusty, you may also want to check out RDS which used to broadcast 
each F1 race live. (I don't know for sure if they still do).  Thanks to 
Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area.  If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows.  If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't.  Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR".  On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
 location somewhere near the track at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday 
before the race.  An interesting (IMO) show which usually includes a live 
audience, driver/guest, and viewer call-ins.  This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 13:54:16 1994
Subject: Re:  SU Carb Question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> I had a 70 mg midget with dual SUs.  They are a bitch to tune, not
-> only that but you have to balance them.

 Heck, I *loved* the SUs.  Just follow the directions in the SU manual,
and everything is fine.  And a *whole* lot easier than adjusting and
synchronizing four Keihin CVs on the bike...
             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 14:00:49 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8333
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>My interests are elsewhere.  I'm really
>enjoying working with my wife in her glass art studio (I'm getting to be
>pretty good at glass blowing) and I've launched a Bar-B-Que catering
>service which is a blast.  Notice how none of this has anything to do
>with computers?  :-) It is delightfully low tech.

  I understand and agree with you 100% John as far as the necessity of
pursuing low-tech stuff as a pressure release, and I certainly hope we
can find another person who will foster the hotrod list with half the
attention you gave.  Wish I could but I simply do not have the time
nor the resources.

  However, there's the not inconsequential matter of Performance
Engineering magazine.  I agree with your decision to insure quality
over quantity, but I (and a bunch of other people, I imagine) certainly
hope you're not abandoning that project!  That's a valuable resource
I'd rather not see vanish, not to mention the cash investment...

  Ron "Hope You Can Relax" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 14:06:57 1994
Subject: Re: What Q-jet to buy?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121) writes:
:>What I thought I'd do is to buy an old Q-jet from a junkyard,
:>buy a good Q-jet book and take the carb apart piece by piece
:>and learning how it works. Then, if I still like the Q-jet, I
:>rebuild it and put it in my Camaro.

:>My question now is: What Q-jet should I look for? Here are some
:>specs on my car.

:>car...........1975 Camaro LT
:>engine........350 V8
:>Present carb..Holley PN 1850, 600cfm 4bbl standard bore
:>Intake........Edelbrock Performer (accepts spreadbore carbs)
:>Cam...........Summit 272/282 (214/224 @0.050) 442/462 lift.
:>Exhaust.......Headders, 2 1/2" exhaust until Trush glasspacks, 2 1/4 end pipes
:>Misc..........Compression bumped to 9.7:1 by replacing stock heads for 1970 heads.
:>              
:>Trans.........TH350 auto w/ shiftkit.

:>rear end......Stock 10bolt. 2.73 Posi.


:>Should I try to find a Q-jet that came from an early '70s Camaro???

	That would make the most sense, although I think any Q-Jet from any
GM 350 of that era would do just fine.

:>Are all
:>Q-jets 650cfm???

	I rather doubt it.  I have a stock Q-Jet on my Buick 455.  I doubt
they put a 650 on such a big motor, but I could be wrong.  At any rate, the
carb is big enough that it looks like you could suck sparrows down the
secondaries, if that gives you any indication.

	Just what cfm would a Q-Jet #7042342 be?

>What's the differance between the various carbs??? 

	Sorry, I can't help you with this one other than the obvious:  some
are single barrel, some are 2bbl, and some are 4bbl, and some have bigger
throats than the others.  Early carbs will not be laden with emissions
controls and will be easier to work on.  Later carbs will have EGR and
other stuff.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 14:15:48 1994
Subject: Re: Stupid question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In article  emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)wrote:

:>Chris BeHanna wrote:
:>-> Where the heck is the filler opening on a TH400?
:>-> Well, I warned you that it was a stupid question!

:> Is this your first automatic, Chris?  

	Why, yes, it is, Dave, how ever did you guess?  :-)

:> If this is your Buick, there should be a 3/4" steel tube near the back
:>passenger (right) side of the engine, with a curled piece of 1/4" sheet
:>metal sticking out as a handler.

	Yes, there is, back by the firewall.  I figured that on being the
dipstick.

:> Possible problems:
:>a) no handle
:>b) no handle, and no tube either

	It's all there alright.

:> There's about a 10:1 chance you don't have a *drain* plug.  I guess GM
:>thought they were saving money.  Proper procedure is to remove all the
:>bolts, lever the pan off with a screwdriver, and hope you don't get a
:>bath in ATF.  Well, at least it doesn't smell as bad as hypoid.

	Except it's usually much hotter.  :-(

	The Chilton's shows a hose attached to one of the bolt holes.  I guess
that doesn't work.  I suppose, the first time I pull the cover, that the
smart thing to do would be to drill and tap for a drain plug.  Any
recommendations on how to do it right so it doesn't back out on the freeway
and leave me with a dead, dry trans?

[What I do is the first time I change the fluid, I chuck up a good sharp
punch in my air hammer and punch a large hole in the pan.  The oil
drains through that.  Then with the pan off, I weld a nut to the pan.
A short bolt, suitably drilled for safety wire and sealed with loctite
anaerobic form-a-gasket, makes the plug.  If you use the air hammer
trick, study your manual to figure out where the guts aren't and 
don't let the punch intrude more than about half an inch.  JGD]
--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha NEC no iken dewa arimasen.                 1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike


----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 17:52:47 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8336
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-> list transition over to being just a USENET newsgroup. Maybe Dave
-> Williams could take over the reigns.

 Dave Williams would love to, except his mail connection would probably
collapse under the load.
                                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 18:04:38 1994
Subject: Hop up Toyota Starlet?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8337
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Hi, it is time for me to purchase a car for school.  I sold my last project
('66 Beetle) over the winter.  Anyway, I would like to hop up an old Japanese 
rear-wheel drive economy car, like a Toyota Starlet.                 
      *Could I stuff a 5.0 Mustang engine in?  Would it fit?  What kind of
       box/axle mods would this require?  What about the 3.5l Rover engine?
       I figure this would be lighter, but harder to find.

      *Would it be better to find a 4cylinder turbo or something?

      *I want good handling as well, what would this entail, + slightly
       wider tires & alloys. 
 
      *If a Starlet isn't a good idea, what do you suggest?

My friends all say to stick to American metal but I am pretty hip on this.  One
guy kind of smiled when I told him but then he put a 350 with a Paxton in an
S-10 Blazer so I figure I am entitled to my own Q-car.
Thanks alot! 

-------------------------
Joseph L. Cordaro
jlc3@cec.wustl.edu
 

----------
Posted by: emory!cec.wustl.edu!jlc3 (Joseph Laurence Cordaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 18:15:13 1994
Subject: Re:  63 Nova frontend...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8338
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The Global West catalog is a great source of information.  Worth the few
dollars.  From page 27
   67-69 Camaro/Firebird
   67-72 A Body { Chevelle, El Camino, Monte Carlo, Buick Special,
     Buick GS, Olds 442, Olds Cutlass, Pontiac GTO, Lemans/Tempest
   68-74 Nova

All these cars will give you disk brakes.  Buy the Global West catalog!
It is practically an instruction manual.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 18:28:30 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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: -> Excuse me,  But the '88 Corvette is an L98 Tuned Port Fuel Injection
: -> engine.  The gaskets discussed were to fit between the carburetor and
: -> the intake manifold.  That Ain't gonna work on a late model 'Vette.

:  Nope, someone (McFarland?) is making the manifold-to-head gaskets with
: the screens now.  They'll work on any Chevy small block.
:                                                                                                 

: ----------
: Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

I don't see what the advantages of placing a screen in the intake path 
might be on a TPI system.  One of the first modifications (for 
performance) recommended by TPIS (Tuned Port Injection Specialties) for 
the MAF (Mass Air Flow) engines is to REMOVE the screens on the Mass Air 
Flow Sensor.  As wide open as the space between those wires (in the 
screen) appears, I am constantly reminded of the old Golfing addage that 
anyone who believes that a tree is 85% air, never tried to hit a golf 
ball through one.  You will find similar reductions in air flow by 
placing screens (of any size) in your intake path.

They might reduce flow enough to increase the airflow speed;  but, I 
would think that you might be able to gain the same overall effect 
(improved atomization of the fuel) by increasind the fuel pressure (the 
TPIS adjustable fuel pressure regulator handles this admirably and 
requires a WHOLE lot less engine dissassembly than does removing the 
intake manifold base).

The mods completed by this user thus far are:
1.  Remove the screens from the MAF sensor.
2.  Grind/polish the fins off the MAF heat sink.
3.  Increase fuel pressure to 42 PSI (From 35 on the '86).
4.  Change out the thermostat for the TPIS 170 degree.
5.  Change the ignition wiring for a better system (Moroso works nice).
6.  Change out the HEI distributor cap/coil/rotor for something better (RHS
    handles this nicely).
7.  Add an airfoil (Hypertech or TPIS or Lingenfelter add infini) to the
    Throttle Body.

These mods will increase the performance of the '86 VERY SIGNIFICANTLY 
and NOTICEABLY.

The total cost is somewhere in the area of $350.  The horsepower 
improvement is estimated at around 50.

John

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!johnhess (John Hess)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 18:44:13 1994
Subject: RE: GM Starter Solenoids
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>Today I went to look at a new solenoid.  Indeed the '88 is different.
>But just a bit.  Anybody know if I will waste more time looking at
>this?  Yes, the starter spins very well out of the car.  The symptom is
>that the solenoid engages, pushs out the ( is it Bendix? ) gear, and 
>everything stops.  The ZZ3 has a 153 tooth flexplate; anybody know what
>an AT '88 Camaro has?  Does it really matter here?

I think the different teeth count comes from different diameter flywheels.  
I think Chevy's large size is 168 or something close.

In anycase.  If it works fine without a load on the starter motor then you 
have a problem with either the startermotor or the power going to the 
starter motor.  With a volt - meter measure the voltage at the solenoid vs 
the starter motor's case.   It better be 8V or 9V.  To low and yuo have 
supply problems to high and you have starter motor problems.

If you have supply problems with a known good battery  - recheck all 
terminals and connections - you should not be able to move the clamps at 
the battery posts.  You should have apporximately 4 gauge wire through out 
the system - both for ground and the positive.  For trunk mounted batteries 
consider 2 gauge a mininimum and you better grind down the metal to which 
the ground is attached.  Because of an availability problem I had to use 0 
gauge wire for one car - and boy did it make a difference.  Rather than 
having two truck mounted batteries I could now start with one!
Using 4 gauge wire from the trunk - with one battery resulted in 6V !!! at 
the starter motor - boy did the engine turn slow...


Remember, cars are a high current system,  that means that even if the volt 
/ ohm meter says there is no risitance or even just .01 ohms of resitance 
at 200 Amps this would mean 2V lost at that joint alone.  Something to keep 
in mind.

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 18:52:53 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8341
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: [There is already a "hotrod" group on the net, rec.autos.rod-n-custom.
: As with most non-moderated groups, the information content is near zero.
: The membership on this list hovers between 200 and 300 people plus those
: who read alt.hotrod and those on remailer lists so there is a demand for
: a moderated hotrod list.  Also contemplate that a third or more of the
: readers on this list are NOT on the internet (aol, compu$erve, etc).  

  I guess moderated is the way to go then. You sure are right about the
information content of the other auto groups. I've found that this
info-highway seems to be deteriorating to the level of the local chat board.

: There are several factors at work.  First and foremost, I hate admining
: computers and I'm beginning to hate admining mailing lists.  Every
: person who sends mail to me or to z-car@dixie.com asking to be added to
: the list probably does it innocently but the load adds up.  Rather than
: do the job poorly or get snappish with people, I realize it is time to
: move along.  

  Information Overload! I know exactly what you mean, between work and
school I barely have time to study for my classes(Internetting is done on my
lunch hour from work). It's good that you have realized this before you
start getting annoyed with people(publicly :>), I have enjoyed reading the
hotrod list especially because of your moderate attitude and expertise.

: The next consideration is the fact that the lovely
: backwater area of Tennessee where I'm moving assuming my real estate
: deal goes through never heard of no information highway.  There's not an
: Internet node within a 100 mile radius.  Doing this list by long
: distance dial-up is just flat out of the question.  I thought about
: finding a closet somewhere here in Atlanta in which to park dixie.com
: but I really just want out.  My interests are elsewhere.  I'm really
: enjoying working with my wife in her glass art studio (I'm getting to be
: pretty good at glass blowing) and I've launched a Bar-B-Que catering
: service which is a blast.  Notice how none of this has anything to do
: with computers?  :-) It is delightfully low tech.  After a few months of
: decompression, I may turn dixie.com back on as my personal email node
: but I won't be running a mailing list of any sort.  Long distance,
: remember?

  It sounds like you are going to have alot of fun! Maybe I'll swing by for
some BBQ ribs sometime.  :>

  Take it easy,

     Brian

--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
The right of the people...                  |  cypress@hebron.connected.com
...shall not be inhibited: WA Constitution  |  finger me for PGP 2.3a key
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------

[Hey, any of you list guys who happens by and mentions the list'll eat
free.  (no, don't bring 47 of your closest cousins either!) I'll be
working special events, car shows, crafts shows and the like for the
first couple of years.  My plan is to have a sit-down restaurant going
in a couple of years, just in time for the olympic whitewater events
about 10 miles from my new abode :-) Haven't decided on a name yet but
my catering trailer is distinctive looking.  Built like a little
tin-roofed log cabin painted bright red and white mortar joints.  And
one of the niftiest, high tech smokers you've ever seen.  Watch for me.
I'm about 95% sure I'll be doing the Daytona Turkey Trot over
thanksgiving.  That's the biggest show I have scheduled to date. JGD]


----------
Posted by: BCL 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:01:06 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8342
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

Ron Rader wrote:

[deleted]
-> 
->   However, there's the not inconsequential matter of Performance
-> Engineering magazine.  I agree with your decision to insure quality
-> over quantity, but I (and a bunch of other people, I imagine) certainly
-> hope you're not abandoning that project!  That's a valuable resource
-> I'd rather not see vanish, not to mention the cash investment...
-> 
->   Ron "Hope You Can Relax" Rader
-> 
-> ----------
-> Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
->  

John,
I certainly second what Ron said above.  I originally voted for quality
over quantity and still do.  Given your recent announcement, what are your
intentions re PE magazine?  Any guesstimate yet as to when issue 3 might
be published?
George Kulp

[I'm pulling the plug on it too.  It has bled me broke.  Each subscriber
will be getting a post card detailing my subscription refund plans.
I may ressurect it at some point in the future when I can hire someone
to run the computer but for now, it's dead.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:12:46 1994
Subject: Re:  SU Carb Question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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>-> I had a 70 mg midget with dual SUs.  They are a bitch to tune, not
>-> only that but you have to balance them.
>
> Heck, I *loved* the SUs.  Just follow the directions in the SU manual,
>and everything is fine.  And a *whole* lot easier than adjusting and
>synchronizing four Keihin CVs on the bike...
             
 I have SUs on an old 61 544 Volvo and while they are very simple carbs,
they do have problems resetting when returning to idle due to the old linkage.
I really do not mind that as much as the problem with the "on-off" response
to the throttle. Since it is a vaccuum feed carb, as soon as the throttle
plate opens, I get a break neck lurch. I kinda wish they had accelerator
pumps. Do other side drafts have accelerator pumps?

Tim Brazil
brazil@ingres.com



----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!brazil (Rent this space)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:19:17 1994
Subject: goodbye John
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Goodbye John
	Thanks for running the list.  Maybe the folks that run the autox
and britishcar list can pick it up.  I hope you out growing of computers
doesn't extend to cars because I would hate to see Performance Engineering
go down the tubes with dixie.com

Henry Sommer

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:24:16 1994
Subject: Re: What Q-jet to buy?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I wish Q-jets were that small, My secondaries never open past 1/3 way.
I don't think my engine can flow much.


----------
Posted by: emory!jzola.lerc.nasa.gov!yyjdb (John Burkett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:30:35 1994
Subject: 2.3 Problems where to rebuild
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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I had a simular problem. What I had found out was that my distributor
was worn out. The shaft worn right into the outer case of the dist.
It took me forever to figure this one. I know that you have replaced
the magnetic but my dist. was fine until I ran into problems with
a bouncey tach. Maybe this is worth checking? The play in the shaft on the dist.
should be very minimal.

As for rebuild shop in San Jose. Well I just moved from up here from So. Cal
and I'm just starting to collect a database of info. The only thing I can
think of is Esslinger Engineering in So.Cal. They specialize in 2.3 performance.
Sorry no address.

See ya

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Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:36:05 1994
Subject: Electric Vehicle Enthusiasts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Does anyone know what is the world speed record of an electric vehicle?   In
the early 1970's, an ev exceeded 170MPH in the former USSR, but this record
has probably changed.

  If you are an electric car owner or builder, we are very interested to 
learn
more about your EV project including such things as top speed, range, weight
of vehicle, HP and weight of motor, type and number of batteries used, 
and if
you use solar panels to assist in any way.    We are also interested in
obtaining photographs of any EV's for our library.
 
 
By the way....
 
The Electric Car Owners Club produces an excellent electric vehicle
info/resource database disk which is a great tool for EV enthusiasts.
The database contains files and hundreds of resource addresses on most
aspects of electric vehicles including driving and technical
information, addresses of most manufacturers and other sources
of parts and assecories, parts lists, motor information, lists of
ev related magazines, books, associations and clubs, enthusiasts and much
more.   The price of the database is only $25 and this money is used to
support our on-line BBS which is open to all.
 
The telephone number of the Electric Car Owners Club BBS is (718) 596-4852.

----------
Posted by: emory!dorsai.dorsai.org!ecoc (ECOC ECOC)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 19:45:38 1994
Subject: Hotrod Mailing List Digest #102 (April 21, 1994) (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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> The membership on this list hovers between 200 and 300 people plus those
> who read alt.hotrod and those on remailer lists so there is a demand for
> a moderated hotrod list.  Also contemplate that a third or more of the
> readers on this list are NOT on the internet (aol, compu$erve, etc).  

Also remember that even those with internet access do not necessarily 
have sysadmin types that have subscribed to the alt newsgroups and by 
necessity still need to be mailed to.

One question.  By the header of the most recent Digest, there have been 
102 mailouts.  I only recently joined.  Could you give me the abbreviated 
version of how I can retrieve Digests from "the early days"?

[What you see is the digest number.  I only started digest service 
a month or so ago.  To date there have been 8338 messages through this
list.  Every message is available as part of my archive.  The 
archive is organized by month and year.  All the messages from 
feb of 93 is simply a file named "0293".  To fetch a file, send mail
to listserv@dixie.com and in the body say any of the following 
commands:

help			Sends the help file
index			Sends a listing of all files organized by archive.
send archive_name file_name	Sends a specified file from an archive.
send hotrod 0293	sends the file 0293 from the hotrod archive

Multiple commands can be stacked in the same message.  Be gentle with
this, cuz my links are already full and some of the archives are
large.

Hey guys, reckon we can hit 10,000 messages before I hand it off?
that would be a nice round number to exit on :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Mark Levorson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 21 23:54:28 1994
Subject: Re:  63 Nova frontend...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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 The A-bodies through '72 didn't have discs except as an option. When they 
did, the calipers were the 4-piston type which you have a hard time getting
parts for. Also, the spindles are real short and the handling kind of
sucks once you get into body roll. Go for a later GM with a bigger rotor
and a taller spindle; a B-body or bigger will give you 11-inchers 
minimum, and a tall spindle too. Several places seem to be selling
the special ball joints it takes to adapt (sometimes adapting isn't even
needed.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 00:01:51 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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 The screens, being down in the runners, are less of a restriction than
if they were at the central "choke point" of the induction system.

 However, if you look carefully at the curves they show, or better yet 
the ones they used to show before they got smart, you can see that the
high RPM performance really starts to sag because of the screen, while
the low-end torque is improved by a mondo 5 lb-ft. Yahoo. I think I'll
buy two sets, and put them in series. Yeah. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 12:46:15 1994
Subject: Hot Rod Mechanix is back
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8351
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

A while back there was some talk of Tex Smith's Hot Rod Mechanix
magazine. There publishing problem is solved and can now be found
on the newstand for the first time.


   Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

   47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
   69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
   73 Camaro LT


----------
Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 12:58:05 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8352
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>[I'm pulling the plug on [PE mag] too.  It has bled me broke.

  Aw heck.  I can't blame you for pulling the plug, but neither
can I hide my disappointment.  I really like PE.

  Could you at least do me a favor?  Post the homebrew A/C recipe
and procedure for retrofitting your average R-12 system.  I really
need this info.  Since you live in the South too, you understand the
necessity!

  Hey Dave, you never shared your experiences fixing that old A/C
system.  Maybe now is the time?

  Ron "Toasty Warm" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 13:16:06 1994
Subject: Re: goodbye John 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8353
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

John,

Thanks for all you've done.  I completely understand your situation and,
although I am not excited about the thought of losing the list, I am happy for
you.  It sounds to me like it's the right thing to do.  Hey, I'm the biggest
Bar-B-Q fan there ever was.  I'm make it a point to stop by. 

Thanks for coming our way.

Dain Gary

----------
Posted by: Dain Gary 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 16:44:15 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8354
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

JGD:

Partly as thanks for maintaining the hotrod list, and also because I
respect your shot at publishing Performance Engineering, keep my
subscription refund.  Best of luck in whatever you go on to.

-Bob

On Apr 21, 17:58, The Hotrod List wrote:
> [I'm pulling the plug on it too.  It has bled me broke.  Each subscriber
> will be getting a post card detailing my subscription refund plans.
> I may ressurect it at some point in the future when I can hire someone
> to run the computer but for now, it's dead.  JGD]
>-- End of excerpt from The Hotrod List


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 16:56:30 1994
Subject: cross drilling rotors...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8355
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I've got a TR8 with horrible brake fade problems (they all do actually).
There ARE big brake conversions but no one in the TR8 Car Club (to
my knowledge) has tried simple cross drilling.  Problem is no one
here in Austin TX will do it (liability).  Anyone got a name of
someplace that WILL?  I know Jackson Racing does it for Hondas...

Oh, the car has disk front, drum rear.  Swept area is something
like 213 sq.in./ton so the brakes should be adequate although not
spectacular.  Concensus has it that they just don't stay cool enough...

Thanks,
jim

----------
Posted by: James TenCate 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 17:09:15 1994
Subject: The End Might Be Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8356
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Hi All,

If someone can send me the specs on size and time required I might be able to 
give the mailing list a new home.   I have six machine vax cluster and
depending if I stay at my present position (I'm up for promotion) I have the
administration for it.  

As far as John goes.  Its going to be sad to see you go.  A lot of us own you
many thanks for keeping this thing going.  

SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 19:02:53 1994
Subject: Re : The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8357
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


I've thought about the rest of my subscription to PE also and I agree. Keep
my subscription refund. The two issues were enlightening enough that they
justified the subscription price (IMHO).

Besides, I think we all knew this to be an entrepreneurial endeavor. Sometimes
things like this don't work out and money is lost. What the hell. I've pissed
away more than $30 before and gotten a hell of a lot less.

Jeff
Armfield

Advanced Propulsion Technology Center
Oak Ridge National Laboratory

[I want to thank everyone who has made several offers. My wallet thanks
you too.  If anyone else would like to do this, please drop a note to
perform@dixie.com and let me know.  

As soon as I get settled in in Tn, there are a couple of things I've
already written up that I'll send out to all subscribers.  One is 
how to work with composites.  An intake manifold is the sample 
project.  Then maybe I can finish my EFI project (lord knows my
cars are beggin' for 'em :-) and write it up.  Maybe I can even
get my wife to run the computer and typeset it :-)  I also have
some book reviews I need to get out.  One is pretty nifty.  It is a
how-to manual for building an EFI around a commercially available 
single board computer.  Comes complete with code listings.  The
guy's target vehicle is a TR6 (if there was ever a car that needed it ... :-)

Anyway, I just stepped in from the shop where I'm building my concession
trailer.  God, it's good to look back after a day's work and actually
be able to SEE the progress....  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Jeffrey S Armfield 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 19:13:20 1994
Subject: Re:  cross drilling rotors...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8358
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 Since the TR7/TR8 seem to sit pretty low, and had pretensions of
fancy aero styling, maybe the problem is airflow. Try ducting air to
the rotor area, maybe by cutting a couple of holes in the front
air dam (if there is one) and a little sheet metal fab?

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 19:29:34 1994
Subject: Re: The End Might Be Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8360
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

Three cheers for Sean!

  Hip Hip Hoo Ray!
  Hip Hip Hoo Ray!
  Hip Hip Hoo Ray!

--
-S
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~
Scot Stockton
TRW                                      
Space & Electronics Group
stockton@iceland.etdesg.trw.com
~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~*~

----------
Posted by: Scot Stockton 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Apr 22 20:23:02 1994
Subject: Re: cross drilling rotors...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8359
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

The Hotrod List writes:
> 
> 
> I've got a TR8 with horrible brake fade problems (they all do actually).
> There ARE big brake conversions but no one in the TR8 Car Club (to
> my knowledge) has tried simple cross drilling.  Problem is no one
> here in Austin TX will do it (liability).  Anyone got a name of
> someplace that WILL?  I know Jackson Racing does it for Hondas...
> Oh, the car has disk front, drum rear.  Swept area is something
> like 213 sq.in./ton so the brakes should be adequate although not
> spectacular.  Concensus has it that they just don't stay cool enough...

Are the rotors vented or solid?  I don't think cross drilling them
is going to do a while lot for you, what you really need is some airflow
onto the brakes.  Anyway, if you really want to crossdrill them,
drop by the dynolab behind ETC on a Saturday afternoon.  You might
be able to find someone who'll drill them for you, although this time
of year they'll probably be too busy to mess with it.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

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Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 22:49:42 1994
Subject: goodbye John
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8361
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-> Thanks for running the list.  Maybe the folks that run the autox and
-> britishcar list can pick it up.  I hope you out growing of computers

 Ogod.  Noooo.....

 Every time I post anything to the autox list I get fifteen or twenty
bounces.  They have admin problems bad.
                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 22:54:48 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8362
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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-> Hey Dave, you never shared your experiences fixing that old A/C
-> system.  Maybe now is the time?

 I never found any iso-butane.  John was going to pick up some for me,
but the store was out.
                                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 22 23:00:11 1994
Subject: CORRECTION for Electric Vehicle Enthusiasts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8363
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

Several days ago, the following message was posted....Please note that
there was a mistake with the number given for the Electric Car Owners
Club BBS.  The correct number for the Electric Car Owners Club BBS is
(718) 596-6845.  Sorry for any problems giving the wrong number might
have caused.


----------
Posted by: emory!dorsai.dorsai.org!ecoc (ECOC ECOC)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr 23 03:31:38 1994
Subject: cross drilling rotors...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8364
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


-> There ARE big brake conversions but no one in the TR8 Car Club (to my
-> knowledge) has tried simple cross drilling.  Problem is no one here
-> in Austin TX will do it (liability).  Anyone got a name of

 Heck, wave a reasonably small amount of cash at me and I'll mount 'em
on the rotary table and have at 'em.  However...

 Cross drilling isn't going to do much for your brakes.  The difference
in cooling area is neatly offset by the reduction in thermal mass.
Cross drilling is good for rally cars and for running in the rain, where
you get mud and slop all over the place.  A few holes or simple slots
can help in the dry, but if you're already pushing the brakes past the
fade point, you're looking at a fair chance of stress cracking.

 I'm not doing mine.  I don't think the tradeoff is in my favor.  I had
a long talk with the owner of the '90 Corvette I sometimes get to race.
We just upgraded to the Z51 brakes after toasting the standards.  Jay
decided he didn't like the idea either.

 If you still want to crossdrill, decide what pattern you want and send
me e-mail.
                                                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr 24 01:41:45 1994
Subject: Re: Color-Sand / Buff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8365
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


In article @dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> 
> I am planning to do some color sanding on my car's paint job to try and remove
> some defects that were introduced during the painting process (some orange peel
> and some sand scratches that came through).  The paint is a metallic blue base
> coat with a catalyzed urethane clear coat (Delthane) and is about one year old.
> Posted by: Paul Richer 


Be very careful in your color sanding!!!!
Depending on if it was painted with color sanding in mind,
the painter may not have put on alot of clear.

If you get through the clear and sand metallic colors, they will look
blotchy because on metallic colors, different depths of the paint appear
as different shades.  On a lighter note, I have done this with very nice
results, following the sanding with finer and finer Meguires.  It seemed
like I used #4 and #9, but am not sure.

Roger

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!rjm (Roger Mrdutt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr 24 12:13:20 1994
Subject: Re: easy engine questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8366
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com



:      My questions are about a 390 I'm going to give a rebuild
: over the summer. I'm planning on converting it more or less
: to a 428, with new heads, intake, crank, rods, etc...
: Is this conversion as easy as I've been ld to believe it is?
: If anyone has done such a job, and has some advice, I'd really
: appreciate it.

     As far as the 428 out of a 390 goes, the bore on a 390 is
4.05 and on the 428, it is 4.13 inches.  Boring the 390 out that
far is supposed to be a no-no, and I have never bored that large.
The stroke on the 390 is 3.78" where as the 428 is 3.98".  No
big deal there except that the 390 is internally balanced (no
counterweight on the flywheel) and the 428 is externally balanced
so a different flywheel (or flexplate for the automatic guys) is
in order.  Connecting rods are the same size, heads from the 428
will fit the 390 and etc., etc., etc.
     Go down to the bookstore and see if they have a book on Ford
engines.  I think the one I have is "Ford Performance" or 
"Perfomance Fords" or something.  It has a section on the windsor
small blocks, the FE (390/428) engine family, the 335 family
(Cleveland smallblock) and the 385 series (429/460) engines.
The book has a yellow cover with a picture of an engine from 
each engine family.  Good book.  A little dated, but good.
Have fun.

Mark Z.  '69 Mach I, '69 Mercury Cyclone
D
      

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!maz (Mark A Zimmerman)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr 24 12:25:08 1994
Subject: Re: What Q-jet to buy?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8367
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) blabbered:

: My question now is: What Q-jet should I look for? Here are some
: specs on my car.

: car...........1975 Camaro LT
: engine........350 V8
: Present carb..Holley PN 1850, 600cfm 4bbl standard bore
: Intake........Edelbrock Performer (accepts spreadbore carbs)
: Cam...........Summit 272/282 (214/224 @0.050) 442/462 lift.
: Exhaust.......Headders, 2 1/2" exhaust until Trush glasspacks, 2 1/4 end pipes
: Misc..........Compression bumped to 9.7:1 by replacing stock heads for 1970 heads.
:               
: Trans.........TH350 auto w/ shiftkit.

: rear end......Stock 10bolt. 2.73 Posi.


: Should I try to find a Q-jet that came from an early '70s Camaro??? Are all
: Q-jets 650cfm??? What's the differance between the various carbs??? 

   While you could use most any Q-jet from the 70's without too much
problem, you will save yourself a good bit of headache by getting a
Chevrolet unit.  With a Chevy unit, you can mix-and-match the proper
throttle cable, throttle bracket, and the proper fuel line for your car
without having to fabricate anything.  The BOP units had the fuel line
sticking straight out the front.  The Chev's had an inlet that pointed to
the side, for example. 

   There were several refinements that were made to later models.  Ideal 
would be a '78 through '80 unit.  


----------
Posted by: emory!inca.gate.net!richardm (NON-D.E.U.)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Apr 24 18:43:44 1994
Subject: Re: 63 Nova frontend...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8368
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hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>I need to upgrade the brakes on the fronend of my nova. I currantly
>have drum brakes, but would like to upgrade to a disc setup. I'm sure
>I'll need to change everything from the backing plate out. What car is
>a good donar candidate for this? Also, I would like to get rid of the
>currant steering setup, and maybe go to a rack and pinion setup so I
>won't have to use the special Milidon(sp) pan for the 350. Has anyone
>out there tried this? Thanks...
>-- 
>*******************************************************************************
>*                                                         Gary Berry          *
>*                                                         gberry@llnl.gov     *
>*******************************************************************************

greetings:
  there's a club for nova owners (national nostalgic nova club) and the 
phone number listed here is both subscription and tech number (it's run
out of a garage, i believe).  (717)252-4192 or (717)252-2383.  they're
in pennsylvania, and stock a number of nova parts, including front 
suspension parts and brake conversions.  great club, good information.

later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 25 00:26:53 1994
Subject: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8369
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

  I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
                                -- Mazz

----------
Posted by: MICHAEL MAZZITELLI 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Apr 25 00:42:07 1994
Subject: Lists down until Tues afternoon
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8370
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I'm on the road again so the lists will be down (admin only, in the case
of fap) until tuesday afternoon.

John


-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion
"If we let this leak, it'll just kill him"  Clinton about Vince Foster

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 18:40:59 1994
Subject: Re: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8371
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


MICHAEL MAZZITELLI wrote about choosing headers:
>I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
>Competition or Blackjack AK5000.

I have no experience with Blackjack but I can tell you first hand
that the Hooker headers which I had the misfortune of buying were
very poor.  The flanges didn't fit, the flanges were too thin and
wanted to warp, the welds between the tubing and flanges were weak
and broke, and the tubing was very thin and consequently noisy.
The thin flanges led to leakage around the center of the center
two ports; the leakage was not fixable.  I removed the headers
several times to have them milled flat but they continued to warp
and leak.

Since then I have been spending more $$ and buying Doug Thorley headers.
These are rugged and well built.  It's like the difference between
night and day.

Bob Hale   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 18:48:13 1994
Subject: H2O inject; O2, knock sensors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Does anyone have any experience in dealing with adding O2 and/or knock
sensors to an engine not orginally equiped with such items (a Datsun L20B to
be exact). What about water injection?
 
How engine specific are knock and O2 sensors? I have a feeling that a knock
sensor would be whereas an O2 sensor would not. Does anyone know if a Datsun
engine similar to mine came with a knock sensor (a 280ZX turbo perhaps?).
What sort of support electronics would be required to use an O2 and knock
sensor?
 
Is water injection all that great? My engine is running close to an 11:1 CR
and I don't like shelling out for premium fuel, especially here in Canada
where it doesn't come cheap.
 
Thanks in advance for any help.
 
 
Matt.

----------
Posted by: emory!genie.geis.com!p.beaubien1
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 18:59:37 1994
Subject: Hop up Toyota Starlet?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8373
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Joseph,
 
  > Anyway, I would like to hop up an old Japanese  rear-wheel drive economy
  > car, like a Toyota Starlet.
 
I'll have to admit that I'm not sure exactly what a Starlet is. My personal
suggestion for an older import to hop up would be a Datsun 510. Think of it
as a square 240Z with 2 cylinders lopped off (the 240's engine was actually
a 510's with 2 more cylinders). 510's are known to be very reliable, and
with IRS, they can be made to handle quite well. Stock, they weigh in at
around 2200#.
 
  > Could I stuff a 5.0 Mustang engine in?
 
Yes. Other popular swaps include L6's from Z cars (some turbos, some not),
rotary engines (very light) and Olds/Rover 251 all aluminum V8 (very light
as well). I'm sure that others have been done but these are probably the
most popular. 510's have plenty of space for just about any type of engine.
They are laughingly easy to work on with the stock engine (1.6L which is
readily replaced by 2.0L's, both of an OHC design).
 
  > I want good handling as well, what would this entail, + slightly
  > wider tires & alloys.
 
With a front and rear sway bar, stiffer springs, and some other misc
hardware to adjust suspension geometry, they can handle very well. You can
fit up to around a 205 width tire without flaring the fenders (depends on
the exact tire and rim however).
 
Good luck on your project car, whatever it turns out to be.
 
 
Matt.

----------
Posted by: emory!genie.geis.com!p.beaubien1
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:11:04 1994
Subject: RE: cross drilling rotors...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8374
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Before you cross-drill consider this:
All those little holes give the rotors a beautiful place to start cracking. 
 Under sever use / abuse the rotors will start to crack and those cracks 
will start at the holes you drilled.

For a race car that can replace the rotors every even this may be O.K. but 
for your car?

In any event I would consider radiusing all edges to minimize heat 
concentrations and potential cracking.

I think the right way to go would be some sort of ducting, perhaps differnt 
wheels,  Removal of the dust shield, or something along those lines.

Also use good brake fluid and change it often.  Do not use silcon brake 
fluid - it might not boil but is pretty spongy from the start and has a 
tendancy to trap air.  Red Line sels Motul brake fluid and Wilwood also 
sells brake fluid that has 570 degree dry boiling point.  Normal brake 
fluid losses about 100 degrees of boil over protection in 6 months from the 
abosrbtion of water.  My understanding that these high temperature ones 
might lose more but for racers who change the fluid before every race don't 
really care.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:14:39 1994
Subject: Re: The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8375
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>I am leaving Marietta in the near future and when I do, I will be
>pulling the plug on dixie.com as it exists now.  

    John, I'm sorry to see you go, but hope everything works out for 
    you in your new un-career 8-)

    If you decide to get back in, drop us a note.

    Kevin


-- 
    Kevin Langston   
    langston@frontier.lonestar.org

----------
Posted by: Kevin Langston 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:20:46 1994
Subject: the end...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8376
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I want to start by saying that this has been a great mailing list. I've
asked a few questions, and have gotten a LOT of information. I'll be sad to
see it go. That brings me to my question: when will the Hotrod list be no
more? Is there a specific date in mind that I have missed? 

Again, thanks for a great list. 

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

[I haven't set a date yet because we have not yet closed on our Tn 
property.  Soon, I hope.  I also think/hope a handoff of the list
is near.  I'm going to do my best to make sure it doesn't die.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:25:33 1994
Subject: Re: Hop up Toyota Starlet?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8377
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

I know this is totally irrelavant to your original question, but I would like some
info about your friend's S-10.  How much did he spend on the project?  Did he do the
work himself?  Any special tools needed?  Any mods to the suspension (front) needed
to compensate for extra weight?  I'm thinking about doing a similar project with my
'83 S-10 Pickup.  I know this can be done fairly simply, my uncle has one.

Anyway, I would suggest going with the Mustang 5.0 HO engine.  I'm a
Mustang fan, so I'm biased.  But seriously, the amount of performance
equipment available and the relative cheapness of rodding a 5.0 is
something to consider.  You can do alot to the engine without spending
much dough.  So, if you can squeeze it in, do it!  If you do go with the
5.0, I can give you some tips on uncorking it by doing a few
simple/cheap things to it.

Good luck

Aaron
Austin, TX

----------
Posted by: emory!issi.com!aaron
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:30:33 1994
Subject: Re: Re : The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8378
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

In article  you wrote:

  John,
   You can keep my subscription also. If I'm ever in the area I'll just drop
in and grab a couple of BBQ ribs in trade 

: As soon as I get settled in in Tn, there are a couple of things I've
: already written up that I'll send out to all subscribers.  One is 
: how to work with composites.  An intake manifold is the sample 
: project.  Then maybe I can finish my EFI project (lord knows my
: cars are beggin' for 'em :-) and write it up.  Maybe I can even
: get my wife to run the computer and typeset it :-)  I also have
: some book reviews I need to get out.  One is pretty nifty.  It is a
: how-to manual for building an EFI around a commercially available 
: single board computer.  Comes complete with code listings.  The
: guy's target vehicle is a TR6 (if there was ever a car that needed it ... :-)

  Hmmm......
  How about a low-tech Hotrod mailing list? I'd be willing to pay $30 a year
for whatever projects you come up with, no deadlines, no fancy color
pictures - just cold hard information. This would save you the trouble of
having to work off a deadline, find writers, advertisers, etc. and keep me
from going crazy tring to design my own EFI compputer :>

--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------
The right of the people...                  |  cypress@hebron.connected.com
...shall not be inhibited: WA Constitution  |  finger me for PGP 2.3a key
--------------------------------------------+--------------------------------

[I've been thinking about that.  At this point I have absolutely no idea
what I'll be doing regarding hotrodding and cars in 6 mos.  Maybe
after I get out of this hellhole and back to God's Country :-) and
get the catering operation off the ground, I can re-sort things.  I have
this huge urge to continue publishing some sort of high tech hotrod
pub but I gotta find someone to run the computer for me.  Maybe
Doreen'll do that part :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!gilead.connected.com!uid#15924
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:36:26 1994
Subject: Thanks John!!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8379
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


[Hey guys, reckon we can hit 10,000 messages before I hand it off?
that would be a nice round number to exit on :-)  JGD]

John,
	Thanks for all the "tidbits" of information. Most of the comments
definately helped us all. I and everyone else, i'm sure, appreciate the 
assistance and mentoring job you have done for everyone on the list... 

Good luck on your future endeavors!! having a ful-time BBQ sounds like a 
stress relief to me!!

-dan a.

	Just another note to get the hotrod list up to 10K. 
	(wish my car revved that high..!!!)


----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:41:57 1994
Subject: RE: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8380
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>  I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
>not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
>Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
>of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
>experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
>weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>                                -- Mazz

I have AK5000's - actually Cyclone "AR" headers with Aluminum coating.
This is on a '75 Chevy Blazer.  
They seem all to made by the same company "Mr. Gasket"  My complaints about 
the headers are these:  sloppy welding - the collectors are not straight, 
even with enough room to drive a "truck" through - they still managed to 
find a tight spot - so that I had to replace the motor mounts.  The bolt 
holes on the flange were not large enough making starting the threads 
difficult (this was complicated by the larger primaries due to the "AR" or 
anti - reversion cones).  The routing of the pipes did not give enough 
clearance to properly tighten the header bolts.  
Good Points:
Aluminum coating was the best available at the time (as far as I new) and 
definitly has reduced, but not eliminated, rust.  With aluminum coating the 
price was comparable to the Hookers and I figured the aluminum coating was 
more important than any slight performance gain the hookers have / had.

Now adays, assuming I had the money, I would by hookers, painted.  I would 
inspect any welds and insure a proper fit in the car.  Then when they were 
as cleaned up as possible I would have them ceramic coated.  Ceramic 
coating of full length headers would probably run about $200-$300 dollars.  
There are only a few companies out there that do it and right now its kinda 
the rage.  These companies usually guarentee the coating for life. Jet Hot 
told me they coat headers inside and out - and if the header is new they 
guarantee it forever against rust....

Since I'm one who hates header installations (I used to own a Pontiac... 
those who have put headers on Pontiacs know what I mean) I prefer to do it 
as little as possible.

A key thing to look at IMHO is the fit around accessories.  Like do you 
have to remove the headers to change the starter motor?  Can you get at the 
plugs?  What wierd modifications must you do to make it fit?

Dirk
Thinking bolt-on is an oxymoron.


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:46:47 1994
Subject: Re: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8381
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

In article 65bb@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>  I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
>not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
>Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
>of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
>experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
>weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>                                -- Mazz

I have a '75 Camaro with the smallblock. I bought cheap 'Coyote' headders,	
and found them to be quite good. They started rusting after 1 1/2 years	
(the header paint burnt off), so I pulled them out this winter and 
repainted them with the paint you use for old stowes ( whatever it's 
called). The fit is good, all sparkplugs except #6 are easy to get at, and
they don't leak.

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 19:52:24 1994
Subject: Re: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8382
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

In article <7k-65bb@dixie.com> you wrote:
:   I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
: not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
: Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
: of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
: experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
: weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
:                                 -- Mazz

: ----------
: Posted by: MICHAEL MAZZITELLI 

You didn't say what you were trying to accomplish.  If it is for the 
street (and price is not a primary consideration), I would recommend Doug 
Thorley Tri-Ys.  This gives you good streetable torque that the four into 
ones simply cannot compete with.  If you are looking for High RPM 
Horsepower, by all means, go with the 4into1 type.

johnhess@io.com
John Hess

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!johnhess (John Hess)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 20:44:03 1994
Subject: natural selection atwork
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8383
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

  I received this on one of my "humor" lists, and immediately thought
of our soon-to-be-kaput little hotrod community.  Heck, I'll tell you
one thing:  if I were gonna bump myself off, I'd much rather go at
300mph than putting a gun to my head ;) .

  Ron "What A Rush!" Rader

----- Begin Included Message -----

> (forwards deleted)
> 
> The Arizona (U.S.) Highway Patrol came upon a pile of smoldering
> metal imbedded into the side of a cliff rising above the road,
> at the apex of a curve.
> 
> The wreckage resembled the site of an airplane crash, but it was a
> car.  The type of car was unidentifiable at the scene.
> 
> The boys in the lab finally figured out what it was, and what had
> happened.
> 
> It seems that a guy had somehow got hold of a JATO unit, (Jet
> Assisted Take Off, actually a solid-fuel rocket) that is used to give
> heavy military transport planes an extra `push' for taking off from
> short airfields.  He had driven his Chevy Impala out into the desert,
> and found a long, straight stretch of road.  Then he attached the JATO
> unit to his car, jumped in, got up some speed, and fired off the JATO!!
> 
> Best as they could determine, he was doing somewhere between 250 and
> 300 mph (350-420kph) when he came to that curve....
> The brakes were completely burned away, apparently from trying to
> slow the car.
> 
> MORAL:
> 
> Solid-fuel rockets don't have an 'off'... once started, they burn at
> full thrust 'till the fuel is all gone.


----- End Included Message -----

[Guys!!  First off, I'm trying my darndest to find a new home for
the hotrod list so it won't die unless EVERYONE sits on his thumbs
and does nothing!

I've seen a slightly different version of this.  I wonder if it isn't
an urban legend based on what Andy Granitelli wrote about in his 
autobiography.  Seems he and his brothers bought a load of surplus 
JATO bottles right after WWII.  They fired one off in the parking lot
of their hotrod shop and unbeknownst to them, it was a dud.  Based on
that experiment, they arrayed 12 of these besties up to the back of
one of their rods and wired them to all fire at once.  Andy was driving
the car down a 2 lane highway with his brothers in another rod following
right behind so as to get a good view.  He pushed the buttons and
then described the following events in language that had me rolling on
the floor.  He describes flames reaching the telephone wires, a farmer
coming the other direction taking off across a corn field to get away
and how it crystallized the windshield and burned the paint off the other
rod.  He managed to get the thing stopped without wrecking.  He then
went on to describe how they rigged the car with a selector to fire
one bottle at a time.  They then hit the carnival and barnstorming
circuit with the car running on fairgrounds short tracks.  He vividly
describes how he fired a rocket exiting each turn which would shake
20 years worth of pigeon turds out of the overhead onto the spectators.

Andy's autobiography is kinda old ( I read it in high school) but is
a RIOT and contains lots of info on his turbine car.  Recommended.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Apr 27 23:52:17 1994
Subject: Re: Hot Rod Mechanix is back
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8384
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: A while back there was some talk of Tex Smith's Hot Rod Mechanix
: magazine. There publishing problem is solved and can now be found
: on the newstand for the first time.

yup, Tex is back in the printing saddle again

my husband sells ads for him

:    Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

:    47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
:    69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
:    73 Camaro LT


: ----------
: Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 00:03:54 1994
Subject: Re: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8385
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu
X-Comment: Send subscription and drop requests to hotrod-request@dixie.com
X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com


In article <7k-65bb@dixie.com>, you write:
>   I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
> not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
> Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
> of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
> experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
> weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>                                 -- Mazz

I have good and bad things to say about Blackjack AK5000 headers.
The good news is it is a pretty good price for having the coating.
Unfortunately the fit was terrible. I had to end up cutting the
flanges and opening the mounting holes to get all the bolts to start.
They seem to have kept their color with only slight greying.

Not sure on the Hooker Comps.

..Don

----------
Posted by: emory!sclara.qms.com!don (Don Henslee)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 11:31:28 1994
Subject: Re: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8386
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In article <7k-65bb@dixie.com>, you write:
>   I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
> not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
> Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
> of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
> experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
> weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>                                 -- Mazz

I have an '81 Z28, and have owned a few previous F-bodies too (including a
Pontiac T/A - yes, they are a huge pain to put headers on.)  The Cyclone
and Blackjack headers are all made by Mr. Gasket, and I have found that they
are not the best of quality, although not too bad.  They also don't have a
very good bend design on the F-bodies from what I have experienced.  I have
had great success with Hedman Hedders (as they spell it), especially the
'Hustler' series (but I'd only use these on a higher-RPM engine - go with
the regular series for more low end torque.)  I currently have a set of
their regular headers on my car, wrapped in ThermoTec's header wraps.  They
have been there for 3 years now, and have not rotted out yet (although they
are slightly rusty.  Plus, the header wraps do not seem to have had an
adverse affect on them and they keep the under-hood temps WAY, WAY down.)
They are far enough from the starter that I've never had a starter go in this
car due to heat (the header wraps probably help this out too) and I can
install/remove it with no problems without even touching the header (it's
probably at least 1" away, if not further - Cyclones and BlackJacks always
hit it.)

The one experience I've had with Hookers was inconclusive, except I did find
their tubing was thin and dented/bent eaisly - my PS pump showed me how thin
and easy this is to do. :) :)

You can also get the Hedman Hedders from Summit for $79.50 and add $169.00
for a cermaic coating. (I've never used the ceramic coating ones though, so
I can't comment on it (but I'll give it a shot one day.))

>From my experience I would also strongly recommend the header wraps if you
want more performance and cooler, more consistant temps.  A lot of people are
saying that the wraps cause your headers to rot out quicker and that it will
cause tube failures, etc., but with the Hedmans I've not found this to be
true (although it may happen on thinner wall headers.)  This is what I have
found in my car anyway, so YMMV.

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 14:38:58 1994
Subject: H20 injection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Forwarded message:
> 
> Subject: H2O inject; O2, knock sensors
> 
> Is water injection all that great? My engine is running close to an 11:1 CR
> and I don't like shelling out for premium fuel, especially here in Canada
> where it doesn't come cheap.
>  
> Matt.

I added water injection to a 65 GTO 389, running 10.75:1, and it worked
great.  I used to get a lot of rattle when punching it at lower rpms,
and after water injection I could floor it in 3rd/4th at 35 mph and it
would just pick up and go.  It was a very simple installation and it 
helped, although I still ran half premium/half premium unleaded.

-- 
Randy Brown      SAS email:  randy@unx.sas.com   Work #: (919) 677-8001, x6852
SAS Institute    UNC email:  brown@cs.unc.edu    Home #: (919) 942-2527

----------
Posted by: Randy Brown 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 14:51:39 1994
Subject: 1957 Ford Fairlane Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Anyone have a good source for NOS Ford parts for late 50's cars?  I have 
a '57 Ford I'm restoring and am running into problems with the windshield
wiper motor.  I've rebuilt the vacuum twice but it just don't cut it.  I
understand there was an electric replacement but I'm having a hard time
finding one.  I've hit boneyards in upstate SC and also eastern MA.  It
also has an original 312 V8 that I need carb parts for (an old, old Holley).

Thanks,

Tim Smith
Eastern Mass

----------
Posted by: Tim Smith 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 23:37:52 1994
Subject: FW: Re: Re : The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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  Well, I'm really upset.  You leave the country for a few weeks and go away
from your email, and look what happens!  Your computer hotrodding world falls
out from under you!  I'm depressed.  I'm taking the rest of the day off.  No
shit.  Really.

: I also have
: some book reviews I need to get out.  One is pretty nifty.  It is : how-to
manual for building an EFI around a commercially available 
: single board computer.  Comes complete with code listings.

I NEED THE NAME AND AUTHOR OF THIS BOOK!!!!  IT LOOKS GREAT!  Can you post the
name and author of the book over the net for us?


:  Hmmm......
:  How about a low-tech Hotrod mailing list? I'd be willing to pay :$30 a year
:for whatever projects you come up with, no deadlines, no fancy color
:pictures - just cold hard information. This would save you the :trouble of
:having to work off a deadline, find writers, advertisers, etc. and :keep me
:from going crazy tring to design my own EFI compputer :>

  While I have been disapointed with the number of issues of PE, I felt that
this mailing list more than made up for the $30 or so a year.  It was obvious
that you were having a hard time (finding time) to crank out more issues, and I
have been meening to suggest that PE mag turn into PE semi-monthly newsletter
(Xerox copies stapled together, b&w pictures, etc).  I am not interested in
glossy color pictures in a mag, I just want the info.  Heck, I'd pay for the
articles to come to me in ASCII via email!  Is this possible?  While I'm a
terrible writer, I'd volunteer some time to put together a news letter type
thing, at cost only, to distribute any articles that any of the readers
contribute.  I WANT TO HEAR YOUR IDEAS!  Would your mailing list of subscribers
be available for such a thing?  (how many subscribers do you have?)

[Time wasn't the issue.  Money was.  I shot my wad on the last issue.
I thought I could do it on a shoestring but I couldn't.  For one thing,
many authors won't write without pay.  I had hoped that people would
believe in the concept enough to do so but it didn't work out that way.
(Dave and the others of you who DID agree to forgo pay, you have my
humble thanks.)  The other issue with lack of money, of course, is 
not being able to actually conclude the projects I must do in order
to write my articles.  Finally, I'm just flat worn out trying to make
it work while trying to turn a nickle.  When I get moved to Tn, get the 
revenue stream flowing again, I hope my interest AND means to do the
mag will return.  

In terms of E-publishing, I've given that serious
thought but I have some problems that are to date intractable.
Pictures and graphics are absolutely vital to the kind of articles 
I'm interesting in writing.  The problem is there is nothing even
remotely resembling a standard way of transmitting composed pages
to people.  Postscript is the initial consideration but the sad fact
is, laser printers are still graphical stone axes.  Pictures printed
on a laser printer are just flat unusuable for conveying information,
even with HP's 600 dpi printer.  I'm less than thrilled with the 
1296 dpi/ 180 line screens I get from my linotype shop but going higher
is expensive.  Raster output (hpgl or equiv) is out because raster
output is treated as a bastard stepchild in windoze.  Things don't
print or print wrong, text doesn't justify right and lots of other
similar things.  Lord knows I've spent hours trying to get decent 
output from a laser printer so I wouldn't have to pay the $5/page
or more for lino output.  The only thing I've found which can come
close is the LaserMaster 1200 dpi printer but it costs >$8000 and
that ain't in the cards for this ole boy!  Lastly, perhaps half of
my subscribers are not on the net, amazing as it may seem.  JGD]


  Hey John, you have given us some teasers about projects you have brewing
(like the home brew EFI system, the Radar based engine dyno, etc).  

[The EFI system is pretty simple.  A dallas semi DS5000 hybrid supplies 
all the smarts.  This is a pretty amazing part.  It contains an
8052-like processor, ram, "rom" (battery-backed ram), timers, watchdog
timer and some other goodies in a double height 40 pin dip.  It has
3 8 bit I/O ports and a serial port.  Best of all, you program it
by jinking several pins during power up and then pumping intel HEX
records into the serial port.  when the END record is received,
the chip reboots and starts running the program as if it were in
ROM.  The remainder of the EFI consists of a simple 8 channel, 8 bit
A/D converter and some driver transistors.

The Radar-based dyno is less developed.  It consists of a doppler
radar head (available as the GunnPlexor from Advanced Receiver Research for 
about $200 or else a police radar head) and a dongle.  The dongle right
now contains a data slicer and a DS5000 processor.  It measures the
doppler frequency using the 5000's timer/counters every few milliseconds
and then sends the frequency in a time-stamped packet out the serial
port to the pc.  The PC software will do everything else.  Given 
the known speed at known time intervals, one can compute acceleration
and if the weight of the vehicle is known, HP can be computed.  The
PC software right now does little more than log the packets and 
turn them into speed and acceleration.  I'm probably going to 
change to the Parallax BASIC stamp for the dongle, assuming
the stamp can do the job.  JGD]

It sounds
like these are not finished, but could you tell us what you have learned
anyway?  I too have been trying to make my own EFI system.  The hope of
publishing my results in PE has provided lots of motivation.  Since this might
not be possible any longer, hearing about what others have tried would be very
helpful.  You have provided us with so much information, I just can't believe
that I might be losing this forum.  I feel like I just lost a friend.

- Steven Ciciora

----------
Posted by: "Ciciora Steve" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 23:46:57 1994
Subject:  Holleys Phone Number
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8390
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Does anyone have Holleys Phone number.  I want to get the
carb on my 69 Z28 rebuilt/replated by their restoration
group.

Ken


----------
Posted by: emory!corte-madera.geoquest.slb.com!ken (Ken O'Hara)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 23:52:17 1994
Subject: Re: Thanks John!!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8391
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X-Comment: Send comments and trouble reports to jgd@dixie.com

>[Hey guys, reckon we can hit 10,000 messages before I hand it off?
>that would be a nice round number to exit on :-)  JGD]

I guess that depends on whether our esteemed moderator allows articles such
as this one you're reading to get through just to increase the article count.  
:-)

FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller
FillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFillerFiller

David (quick - post some drivel!) Wright
dwrig@tog-1s.hac.com

----------
Posted by: emory!tog-1s.hac.com!dwrig (David Wright)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Apr 28 23:58:38 1994
Subject: Plumbing my shop for air - questions on tubing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Hi all.  I know this went around a few months ago, but I can't find any of
the articles (and I can't remember if they answered what I'm looking for) so
I have a few questions.  

It's getting to the time when I am going to plumb my garage/shop for the 
air compresser (I don't have the compressor yet.)  I am wondering what type
of tubing is best to use and what the best method of joining the joints
together is?  I'm probably going to plumb it all in behind the drywall, so
looks aren't that important. :) :)

Also, any other suggestions are more that welcome.  Thanks!

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 00:04:44 1994
Subject: RE: cross drilling rotors...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> In any event I would consider radiusing all edges to minimize heat
-> concentrations and potential cracking.

 Unless you put a hell of a radius on there, it ain't gonna matter much.
It's not uncommon for the Corvette we run to wear the rotors .060 or
more in a single event.  Modern carbon-based pads are incredibly
abrasive.

 The drilled rotors on the Honda NSX aren't radiused, nor as the ones on
any motorcycle I've seen.  Given the amount of wear the rotor can see, I
doubt if it's practical.
                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 22:16:12 1994
Subject: Re:  Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 8394
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  I want to thank everybody for the header info.  I'm still trying to 
figure out what I'll use, and now I have the Doug Thorley's to consider.  
Does anybody know where I can get info on the tri-Y's (who sells them, how 
much, fit, etc...)?  I know that tri-Y's are best for increased low- and
mid-range torque (which is what I want), but I wasn't sure where to get
them.  Any help would be appreciated (yet again!).
                     -- Mazz

----------
Posted by: MICHAEL MAZZITELLI 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 22:28:31 1994
Subject: TV: *Televised Events #94-17*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

Now in its third year of weekly publication, TVE is a compilation of 
info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers, tea leaves, my 
favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE confirm dates and 
times with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated no later than every Friday morning and will 
be most accurate (or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your 
favorite event is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day 
window.

As mentioned previously, this listing is now being submitted to the new 
group rec.autos.sport.info.  Assuming the moderators approve, this list 
will be available in the r.a.s.i group from now on.  In an attempt to get 
the word to as many r.a.s readers as possible, I will continue to cross-
post to r.a.s for a short time. (This again assumes the moderators of 
r.a.s.i do not object to my doing so.)

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Power Wheels                          04/29    1:00PM           ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 04/29    5:30-6:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld II                          04/29    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          04/30    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN2
SAAB PRO SERIES, ATLANTA (T)          04/30    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed                      04/30    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 04/30    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (truck interiors)  04/30    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             04/30    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
ARCA, TALLADEGA (L)                   04/30    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              04/30    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      04/30    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
SpeedWeek                             04/30    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               04/30    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              04/30    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               04/30    4:00-4:30PM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Harry Gant)      04/30    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, ROUGEMONT (L)               04/30    5:00-7:30PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             04/30    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
Legends Of The Brickyard (1978)       05/01    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
A Race For Heroes (Al Unser)          05/01    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Legends Of The Brickyard (1979)       05/01    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Motorcycle Madness                    05/01    2:00-3:00AM      QVC
Motoworld                             05/01    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             05/01    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, SAN MARINO (L)             05/01    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               05/01    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              05/01    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Harry Gant)      05/01    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              05/01    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      05/01    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           05/01   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            05/01    1:30-5:00PM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty (sprint school05/01    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
N Bonnett's Winners (Harry Gant)      05/01    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               05/01    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              05/01    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
AMA?, DAYTONA 200 (T)                 05/01    5:00-6:30PM      TNN
NASCAR Shop Talk                      05/01    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (truck interiors)  05/01    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              05/01    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      05/01    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           05/01    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      05/01    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (sprint school05/01   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     05/02    12:00-1:30AM     TNN
Auto Racing (?)                       05/02    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             05/02    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
Movie: The Crowd Roars                05/02    8:00-9:15AM      TMC
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (T)            05/02    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 05/02    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
IMSA, ROAD ATLANTA (T)                05/03    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
A Race For Heroes (Bobby Unser)       05/03    2:00-2:30AM      ESPN
ARCA 500, TALLADEGA (T)               05/03    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 05/03    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
INDYCAR, LONG BEACH (T)               05/04    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
MOTORCYCLE RACING, ATLANTA (T)        05/04    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (T)            05/04    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Legends Of The Brickyard (1978)       05/04    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 05/04    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
POWERBOAT RACING, STANTON (T)         05/05    12:30-1:30PM     HTS*
AMA SUPERBIKE, POMONA (T)             05/05    2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     05/05    3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 05/05    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Aurora)                    05/05    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (T) 05/05    8:00-9:00PM      HTS*
AMA SUPERBIKE, POMONA (T)             05/05    9:00-10:00PM     HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     05/05    10:00-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    05/05   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
AMA SUPERCROSS, INDIANAPOLIS (T)      05/06    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld II                          05/06    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Imola)           05/07    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

BUSCH GN, LOUDON (L)                  05/07    1:00PM           TNN
NASCAR SOUTHWEST, SONOMA (L)          05/14    4:30PM           ESPN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, POLE DAY (L) 05/14    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, MONACO (L)                 05/15    9:20AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
NHRA Today, Memphis (L)               05/15    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
ASA, TOLEDO (L)                       05/15    1:00-3:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, SEARS POINT (L)          05/15    4:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (T)               05/15    tba              ABC
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 2ND DAY (L)  05/15    3:00PM       ESPN,TSN
NHRA Today, Memphis (L)               05/15    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
NHRA, MID-SOUTH NATIONALS (L)         05/15    6:30PM           TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/18   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/19   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Charlotte (L)  05/20   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
THE WINSTON SELECT, CHARLOTTE(L)      05/21    7:30-10:30PM     TNN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 3RD DAY (L)  05/21    5:00PM       ESPN,TSN
BUSCH GN, NAZARETH (L)                05/22    1:00PM           TNN
INDIANAPOLIS QUALIFYING, 4TH DAY (L)  05/22    4:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, NATIONALS, ENGLISHTOWN (?)      05/22    tba              tba
Indy 500 Festival Parade (L)          05/28    1:00-2:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, CHARLOTTE (?)               05/28    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, SPAIN (L)                  05/29    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
INDIANAPOLIS 500 (L)                  05/29   11:00AM-3:30PM    ABC
WINSTON CUP, CHARLOTTE (L)            05/29    5:00PM           TBS
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/01   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/02   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Dover (L)      06/03   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (L)                   06/04    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (L)                06/05    12:10PM          TNN
INDYCAR, MILWAUKEE (L)                06/05    4:00-6:00PM      ABC [1]
BUSCH GN, MYRTLE BEACH (?)            06/11    tba              tba
FORMULA 1, CANADA (L)                 06/12    2:00-4:00PM  ESPN,CBC
INDYCAR, DETROIT (L)                  06/12    2:00-4:30PM      ABC [1]
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               06/12    12:30PM          TNN
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (T)                06/12    tba              ABC
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, KIRKERSVILLE(?)06/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             06/19    1:00PM           CBS
BUSCH GN, WATKINS GLEN (?)            06/25    tba              tba
ASA, BRAINERD (L)                     06/26    tba              TNN
INDYCAR, PORTLAND (L)                 06/26    4:00-6:30PM      ESPN [1]
NHRA, NATIONALS, TOPEKA (?)           06/26    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)              07/02    11:00AM          ESPN
FORMULA 1, FRANCE (L)                 07/03    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
BUSCH GN, MILWAUKEE (?)               07/03    tba              tba
ASA, CEDAR RAPIDS (L)                 07/04    tba              TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/06   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/07   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
VideoMorning RACEWEEK, Loudon (L)     07/08   9:00AM-12:00PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, GREAT BRITAIN (L)          07/10    8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, LOUDON (L)               07/10    1:00PM           TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                07/10    1:30-3:30PM      ABC [1]

[1] CBC also carries all F1 and most IndyCar races (the Indy 500 & Long 
Beach will not be shown this year).  The races are usually broadcast on a 
tape-delayed basis at 11:37PM ET on the evening following the race.  I 
understand that it is not uncommon for CBC to delay the broadcast as much 
as an hour beyond the 11:37PM start, so please use extra caution if you 
plan to tape the race.  If you have access to it, and your French isn't 
too rusty, you may also want to check out RDS which used to broadcast 
each F1 race live. (I don't know for sure if they still do).  Thanks to 
Tak Ariga for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area.  If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows.  If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't.  Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR".  On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
 location somewhere near the track at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday 
before the race.  An interesting (IMO) show which usually includes a live 
audience, driver/guest, and viewer call-ins.  This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 22:47:03 1994
Subject: RE: Plumbing my shop for air - questions on tubing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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>It's getting to the time when I am going to plumb my garage/shop for the 
>air compresser (I don't have the compressor yet.)  I am wondering what type
>of tubing is best to use and what the best method of joining the joints
>together is?  I'm probably going to plumb it all in behind the drywall, so
>looks aren't that important. :) :)


You basically have two choices:  galvanized steel pipe - it will thread 
right into all your fittings (filters etc) - that plus teflon tape (
available from any plumbing supply place) will insure long lasting leak 
free pipes.  A local professional air-compressor supply shop does all its 
new installations with PVC and glue.  The advantage is that it easy to cut 
and very easy to install.  

Might I also suggest that you install the pipe at an angle so that all the 
moisture (if any) drains to one end or the other so that you can drain it 
from the lines.

Also do not let the filter have metal to metal contact with the 
air compressor.  Doing so will heat the filter and may cause all the water 
that it trapped to boil or evaporate back into the air - only to condense 
at the end of the line.

For a permanent installation I would eventually get a 60 gallon upright 
compressor.  I currently have a 5hp with a 30 gallon tank which is plenty 
for most of what I do - it dues get a workout when I'm using a dual action 
sander or other high speed tool.  Two stage compressor normally go to about 
175psi but you give up something as far as total airflow.  Standard 
pressure is about 125psi.

My compressor setup is based on a Sears compressor - I removed all the 1/4" 
fittings and plumbed it with 3/8".  I did this after a line broke and I 
noticed the air compressor never got below 90psi - which means I couldn't 
flow more than 9 cfm or so - even for short periods of time (jack hammer?).

>From the tank, which origionally had a 3/8 to 1/4" reducer, I ran 3/8 tube 
to a 4-way tee (this t was only available in black-iron - but all other 
parts are galvanized).  On one end of the T is a pressure relief valve - 
this valve should have a straight, unobstructed path to the tank - if the 
valve gets clogged you run the risk of blowing everything.... so minimize 
the chance of anyobstruction.  On top of the T is the power / pressure 
switch.  Exiting out the back is the main line.  The main line makes a 
right is connected to a filter - which is mounted under the handle on the 
compressor.  I mounted it in such a way that I can hang a bucket of Ice 
around, under the filter (see above explaination why)  This all goes to a 
new regulator and a large (3/8") quick disconnect.  For work outside (my 
garage isn't built yet) I connect the compressor to a galvanized pipe that 
runs through a wall.  Outside is another filter, covered in a wheather 
tight box.  Even on the most humid days moisture does not get by both 
filters....

For safety considerations you must be weary of the air pressure, moveing 
parts and the electrical circuit.  A 5hp electric motor requires 25 Amps at 
220V - this means 10 gauge wire.  As far as moving parts - most compressors 
come with covers protecting the belts and wheels.  As far as pressure - if 
you choose the right material and assemble it correctly - the only worry 
you'll have is a pin hole leak - maybe.  Insure that both the pressure 
relief valve and the pressure switch are connected straight to the tank 
with no filter etc between them and the tank - these are the two devices 
that will keep dangerous pressures from building.

Pretty soon you'll never buy an electric tool again....

My only complaint - Air compressors make you lazy.  I used crank o a rusted 
bolt for 15 minutes - sometimes a real workout.  Now I spend 15minutes 
looking for the right attachment combo - to get the impact gun in place - 
and then 30 sec to lossen the bolt...

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 23:01:05 1994
Subject: Re: 1957 Ford Fairlane Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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On Apr 28, 12:52pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: 1957 Ford Fairlane Parts

Tim recommend you obtain a current copy of HEMMINGS MOTOR NEWS.  There will be 
no end to good sources in any issue.  Try Obsolute Ford in Oklahoma City, OK.

Good luck. Mike


-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 23:14:36 1994
Subject: Re: FW: Re: Re : The end is Near
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Item Subject: FW: Re: Re : The end is Near
     


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: FW: Re: Re : The end is Near
Author:  Non-HP-hotrod (hotrod@Dixie.Com) at HP-Corvallis,unix1
Date:    4/28/94 6:39 PM


In terms of E-publishing, I've given that serious
thought but I have some problems that are to date intractable. Pictures and 
graphics are absolutely vital to the kind of articles I'm interesting in 
writing.  The problem is there is nothing even remotely resembling a 
standard way of transmitting composed pages to people. 
     
     *******************************************************************
     
     Have you given any thought to a Mosaic server?  If you have acces to a 
     Mosaic server check out the following URL 
     http://lancet.mit.edu/decavitator  which is a sample HTML document put 
     together by a group at MIT for the human water vehicle speed record.  
     It contains graphics, movies, and text all embedded in hyper text.
     
     It may not be a standard yet, but I think it will soon become one of 
     the major tools used on the internet to disseminate information.
     
     Cary McCallister

[I have no idea what mosaic is and since I'm not on the internet
proper, I doubt that it would do me much good to find out.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!hp-corvallis.om.hp.com!cary_mccallister
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 23:26:38 1994
Subject: Re: Plumbing my shop for air - questions on tubing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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Why don't you use copper?  I really don't know what people use, but I
thought about doing this once and was going to do it in copper pipe.
Its easy to work and join, plenty of elbows, etc. available at your
local hardware store.  PVC might not hold up under 200lbs pressure.
Iron needs to be threaded.

-- 
  /-------------------------------------------------------------------------/
 /         David W. Haile - Ft. Collins, Colorado - dhaile@csn.org         /
/-------------------------------------------------------------------------/

----------
Posted by: David Haile 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Apr 29 23:35:01 1994
Subject: Re: Plumbing my shop for air - questions on tubing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
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In article  you write:
>Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
>Path: lscruz!butch!uunet!pipex!exnet2!rsiatl!hotrod
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: Plumbing my shop for air - questions on tubing
>Message-ID: 
>Date: Fri, 29 Apr 94 01:58:04 GMT
>Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the South.
>To: hotrod@dixie.com
>Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
>Posted-Date: Thursday, Apr 28 1994 21:57:41
>X-Sequence: 8392
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>Approved: jgd@dixie.com
>Lines: 18


>Hi all.  I know this went around a few months ago, but I can't find any of
>the articles (and I can't remember if they answered what I'm looking for) so
>I have a few questions.  

>It's getting to the time when I am going to plumb my garage/shop for the 
>air compresser (I don't have the compressor yet.)  I am wondering what type
>of tubing is best to use and what the best method of joining the joints
>together is?  I'm probably going to plumb it all in behind the drywall, so
>looks aren't that important. :) :)

>Also, any other suggestions are more that welcome.  Thanks!

>-- Steve
>stm0@gte.com

>----------
>Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
     I'm doing the same thing on the new house I'm building. I plan on using 
conventional plastic pipe and fittings. I'll be using 1/2" Schedule 80 PVC. 
Schedule 40 PVC is rated for 450psi, which is plenty. I don't know the 
pressure rating, off hand, for schedule 80. But it's heavier wall, and 
doesn't cost much more. 
     Be sure to use primer on all the glued connections, to assure full 
strength. One general tip on plastic pipe...when mating plastic pipe to 
metal fittings, use a male plastic fitting into a female metal fitting if 
possible. If you go the other way, the metal fitting is likely to split the 
plastic female. Plastic pipe is less prone to contribute to condensation 
problems, than steel or copper.	Good Luck



Obviously, I am not a spokeman for Lockheed. I just work here, and this is 
just my opinion...don
---------
cain@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com

----------
Posted by: emory!mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com!cain
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr 30 00:06:07 1994
Subject: Plumbing my shop for air - questions on tubing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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-> It's getting to the time when I am going to plumb my garage/shop for
-> the air compresser (I don't have the compressor yet.)  I am wondering
-> what type of tubing is best to use and what the best method of
-> joining the joints together is?  I'm probably going to plumb it all
-> in behind the drywall, so looks aren't that important. :) :)

 My compressor is in a shed outside the shop so I don't have to listen
to it hammering away.  The shop is plumbed with 1" PVC pipe, which is
rated at 400 PSI.  The compressor puts out 120.

 After I had bored holes in the studs and run the pipe, I was told by
many people (indeed, it was in the Campbell-Hausfeld manual too, but as
Xaviera Hollander mentioned, Americans seldom read owners' manuals)  not
to use plastic pipe.  Evidently *if* the pipe were to rupture (vibration
cracking, bad pipe or joint) little pieces of plastic could fly about,
possibly putting out an eye.  Since I have insulation and drywall over
it all I'm not worried about it any.  If you have any concern, plain old
copper tubing isn't much more expensive, though you'll have to sweat the
fittings on.

 I started about 4 feet up on the far wall, sloping down to 24" 65 feet
(3 walls) later.  The air outlets are all about 5 feet up, 6 feet apart
(some of 'em don't have chucks yet, but I can just unscrew the plugs and
add them later).  The outlets are on risers above the main line, all the
outlets are 5' up even though the main slopes.  This is to make damned
sure I don't get condensation problems.  The bottom end of the main goes
outside the wall by the entry door, with a water valve - each day I
crack the valve and bleed off any water.  You have to remember I live in
a swamp.

 There's an air fitting in the shed in case I want to take apart an
engine there or something, and one outside by Bay 1's door so I can pump
up a tire outside.

 One thing I ran into is, when you plug a flexible hose into one of the
chucks, you can put a lot of stress on the plastic pipe if you tug on
the hose.  Make sure the pipe is securely braced right up by the chuck.


 I need to put a remote drain on the compressor's tank - laying on the
floor to pull the plug is stupid.  It'd also be real nice to be able to
turn the compressor on and off from inside the shop, rather than
unlocking the shed and flipping the switch.  I'll work on that someday.
Right now I'm shickled titless I have air at all.
                                             

[There have been several warnings in the racing magazines about people
being injured when plastic pipe burst.  The pieces make good shrapnel.
The problem is, anything in the air gets compressed and concentrated
and many solvents attack plastic pipe. The soft pipe can rupture even 
when not subject to excessive vibration.  Since liquids tend to collect
at the bottom of the piping, the blowout tends to be from the bottom - 
right at the people below.  Copper is almost as cheap and almost as
easy to install so I can't see the rationale for plastic.  One nice
thing about using copper is that the final elbow can be one of those
combination elbows and anchors designed to anchor a faucet to the wall.
This takes all the strain off the piping from pushing hoses into
the quick-couplings.

A couple of things I've added beyond your installation.  I have a ball
valve on each of the connectors in my shop.  They only cost about $5 and
they let me turn the air off to a hose without having to unplug it.
Hoses last a lot longer that way.  I also added a solenoid valve to the
outlet connection on the compressor so I can isolate the whole system
without having to go outside.  I have some small amount of residual
paranoia that something would blow out while I'm on a trip and my
compressor would run for several days and I'd have to hock my wife to
pay the bill.  So I isolate the piping system when I'm not actively
using air.  I also piped in regulators adjacent to the normal connectors
at a couple of strategic places.  Handy to be able to plug in the 
paint gun without having to scrounge for a regulator.

I've piped everywhere in my house and shop including the kitchen.
You'd be surprised how handy compressed air can be in the kitchen :-)

Oh yeah, if you have a neighbor you don't like, put the compressor
on that side of the house :-)  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr 30 22:16:52 1994
Subject: Re: Headers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In alt.hotrod you write:

>>  I have a 1970 Camaro and I'm thinking of installing headers, but I'm
>>not sure which kind to use.  I've narrowed it down to either Hooker
>>Competition or Blackjack AK5000.  I'm leaning towards the Blackjack because
>>of the aluminum coating, but I'd first like to know if anyone has had any
>>experience, good or bad, with either.  Any comments on the strengths or
>>weaknesses on both of these headers would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>>                                -- Mazz


>Now adays, assuming I had the money, I would by hookers, painted.  I would 
>inspect any welds and insure a proper fit in the car.  Then when they were 
>as cleaned up as possible I would have them ceramic coated.  Ceramic 
>coating of full length headers would probably run about $200-$300 dollars.  
>There are only a few companies out there that do it and right now its kinda 
>the rage.  These companies usually guarentee the coating for life. Jet Hot 
>told me they coat headers inside and out - and if the header is new they 
>guarantee it forever against rust....


>Dirk
>Thinking bolt-on is an oxymoron.


I can't say much for my experience with Hookers fit either.  I had a set 
of Hookers on my '66 Mustang.  They left me a mere 2 1/2" ground 
clearance.  Needless to say, within about 5,000 miles the bottom tubes 
wre getting pretty flattened out.  I'm not sure if this was just a bad 
set, or typical of Hookers.  As soon as it comes out of storage next 
month, I'm going to install a set of Headmans I have waiting to be 
installed.  They look like they will provide better ground clearance.  
I'll see how the other clearances are.

Chip Schweiss
lschweis@nyx.cs.du.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!nyx10.cs.du.edu!lschweis (Lester Schweiss)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Apr 30 22:31:28 1994
Subject: Re: H20 injection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
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In alt.hotrod you write:

>Forwarded message:
>> 
>> Subject: H2O inject; O2, knock sensors
>> 
>> Is water injection all that great? My engine is running close to an 11:1 CR
>> and I don't like shelling out for premium fuel, especially here in Canada
>> where it doesn't come cheap.
>>  
>> Matt.

>I added water injection to a 65 GTO 389, running 10.75:1, and it worked
>great.  I used to get a lot of rattle when punching it at lower rpms,
>and after water injection I could floor it in 3rd/4th at 35 mph and it
>would just pick up and go.  It was a very simple installation and it 
>helped, although I still ran half premium/half premium unleaded.

>-- 
>Randy Brown      SAS email:  randy@unx.sas.com   Work #: (919) 677-8001, x6852
>SAS Institute    UNC email:  brown@cs.unc.edu    Home #: (919) 942-2527

I too have had good result with water injection in my '66 Mustang with 
10.5 CR.  I run 87 octane and never get a knock.  My system is quite 
refined to get the mixture ratios perfect yet, but it's getting close.  
I'd be curious to here the details of how yours is set up.  Let me know 
if you want me to discribe my home made system.  It cost me about $35 to 
build.

Chip Schweiss
lschweis@nyx.cs.du.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!nyx10.cs.du.edu!lschweis (Lester Schweiss)