From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 01:42:01 1994
Subject: Crankshaft Keyway Repair Complete: SUMMARY
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7457
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu




SUMMARY OF CRANKSHAFT KEYWAY REPAIR - Thanks to all who responded!

    Now that the repair is complete, I thought I'd share the 
experience with you all, and thank everyone who responded (list
of folks at the end-  Thanks Folks!)

*******************************************************************

THE PROBLEM:

     A week or so ago I posted the problem.  A Chevy truck 
was brought to me with a bad vibration that seemed to go
away when the (auto) trans was dropped into gear. The engine
is a 454 cu. in. engine (externally balanced by the harmonic 
balancer)  The previous mechanic wanted to replace the torque
converter for $500.  The owner then handed the truck to me.  
Upon digging in, I found that the harmonic balancer was not 
in the right position.  The woodruff key, and keyways in 
the balancer and crankshaft were badly damaged. Someone had 
hammered the balancer onto the crank, literally forging the
key into the crank and balancer.  Fortunately, the damage is 
limited to one side of the keyway on the crankshaft.   Of 
course, I got a new key and balancer, but I did not want to 
rip the crank out and replace it.  So the problem was to 
repair the damage to the crankshaft.  Below I will outline 
the responses I received, and then tell how I fixed it.


1). COMPLETE REPLACEMENT SUGGESTIONS:

"Replace the crankshaft. If your repair fails at high RPM, the
balancer, fan, etc could fly off and kill someone."

"If it doesn't hold, the engine will go way out of balance,
and destroy the main bearings."

*** Obviously, the "best" solution, but not the most cost-
effective. I've never heard of a balancer flying off- I've heard
of FLYWHEELS coming apart.  Besides, if it did fly off, it 
would probably only kill ONE person, worst case... :^)


2). SUGGESTIONS FOR EPOXY REPAIR, AND REBUTTALS:

"I tried this once.  The epoxy failed and ended up causing 
worse damage than was originally present"

"Try Loctite Form-a-thread"  Me: I picked up a card of
this stuff to have on hand, it seems to be good stuff,
but not for this sort of thing.

"J-B Weld says it can fix stuff like this  :^)  "

"Epoxy can not take the expansion and contraction of the
motor heat"  

"Epoxy can not take the pounding the part will receive."

"The epoxy is going to fill the space between the key and the slot.
It's not glueing anything, just filling a void. Concrete or even
plaster would probably work."

"Use J-B Weld if you MUST use any epoxy"

"Try Devcon Plastic Steel"

"Try stuff made by Loc-tite.  I've used this stuff where a
chunk of steel was thrown at the junction of a crankpin."

"Make sure any Epoxy is fresh-stock.  It hardens in the applicator."

*** My reason for NOT using epoxy for the primary repair agent:
The machinist told me that Epoxy is wonderful stuff, and they've
tried it for lots of exotic repair "saves", and it CAN be as
strong as steel in some applications, but it doesn't have the same
fatigue properties as steel, and constant pounding will
eventually destroy it. The Epoxy disintegrates and falls out. 


3).  WELDING REPAIR:

"Fill in the damage with a welder, then clean it up with a grinder."

"Weld a new key in place."

"Weld the balancer to the end of the shaft"

"Welding will require re-heat treating the crank."

"Welding heat should not damage the crank because it's so 
massive that it'll distribute the heat for the little bit
of welding that you need to do."

"Any localized heating will change the crystalline structure
of the crank in that area."

*** My reason for NOT using a welder to do the repair: 
First, I did not want to weld anything in place, so that
rules out several of the suggestions.  I did not want to 
fill in the damage with welded material because of the heat-
treating problem.  The local welder said it would severly
weaken the crank if not done under controlled conditions
(in a post-bake oven - IE: I'd have to remove the crank ).
The crank is cast.


4). OVERSIZE KEYWAY/KEY KIND OF REPAIRS:

"Machine the crank and balancer for an oversize key."

"Machining the crank for an oversize key is easy.  In the 
balancer, it's a different story.  Maybe a flat file on
edge..."

"Cut a second keyway in the crank/balancer on the other
side of the crank and balancer. IE: a secondary keyway,
placed elsewhere around the crank"

"Machine a new woodruff key that fits the damage in all  its 
bumps and waves. You may want to clean it up a little bit
first, making straighter sides, and then use modeling clay 
to get an impression of the hole." 

"Clean up the damaged area to be flat faced, and then machine
a steel insert to fill in this space, flush with the crank
surface... Then use the standard key.  I used this repair once,
and it lasted six years, and it was still holding fine when I 
sold the car."

*** This is close to the repair technique I decided to use. (Ya 
can't argue with successful practical results!). Now the problem 
was how to cut the keyway without removing the crank. (see below)


IMPLEMENTATION: Cutting an oversize key, or cleaning up the damage.

"Use a key cutter from a milling machine, mounted in a hand 
drill."

Machinist: "It'll never work.  The key cutter bites in, and it 
will throw the drill (IE: Chatter). You could never hold it steady
by hand, it's too wild-  use an abrasive....Silicon Carbide."

"Abrasives/Grinding will overheat the crank locally, and cause similar
problems to the ones you'd have if you tried to weld it."

Machinist:  "Grinding it slowly with a small hand grinder will
not do any harm.  Just stop frequently and check your measurements
so you don't end up with a sloppy cut."


WHAT I DID:

I ended up getting a new key, a new balancer, and a modified 
woodruff key to fill in the damage.  I used a small die grinder
with a silicon carbide bit to cut an enlarged keyway in the
crank, cleaning up the damage.  I then modified a woodruff key
to fit into the "cleaned up" part, but not extending above the
crankshaft surface (flush with it).  Then the correct sized key
was able to fit in its normal position.  The modified woodruff
key was simply a steel insert to fill in the "cleaned-up" 
damaged region.   I then used some Epoxy (JB-Weld) to hold
the modified key in place. The epoxy is not critical, so if it
fails, the steel insert will still be doing the job, but
it sure made installation a lot easier. I then tightened the
center-bolt very tight, since this will remove much of the load
from the repair zone.

I took the truck on an abusive road-test, and it seems to hold 
just fine- the vibration is all gone.  I also took the time to
fix some accessory mounting brackets that (presumably) were
screwed up by the same "mechanic" that ruined the crank. 
It now looks like we've inherited the truck, so I'm glad
I took the time to do it right  :^)   

Thanks to all who responded.  Here is a list that I hope
is complete-  If I missed anybody, I apologize.  Any questions,
comments or criticisms, please feel free to write me.  I'm the 
first address on the list below. 

Eric Perozziello (Me)    eap@everest.stanford.edu
John Wroclawski          jtw@lcs.mit.edu
James Swonger            jws@mlb.semi.harris.com
Gary Preckshot           gary_preckshot@lccmail.ocf.llnl.gov
Clive Apps               clive%problem@epas.utoronto.ca
Jens Larsen              jenisis@jenisys.com
Kyle Schmidt             RKSCHMID@MECHANICAL.watstar.uwaterloo.ca
Bill Webster             WWEBSTER@BNR.ca
Ron Ginger               ginger@demoax.enet.dec.com
Bill Goodman             William.Robert.Goodman@acenet.auburn.edu
Roy Giacchino            rgiacchi@cs.uml.edu
Bob Carrier              CARRIER@FNALV.FNAL.GOV
Jim Foster               jaf@a2.cim.cdc.com
Chris Kantarjiev         cak@parc.xerox.com

*******************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!everest.Stanford.EDU!eap (Eric Perozziello)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 01:50:22 1994
Subject: bandswawing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7458
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

When you cut steel on a bandsaw, you need to turn the speed WAY down. 
Aluminum can be cut at high speeds with a fairly coarse (five or six teeth
per inch) blade.  But steel needs to be cut really slowly.  

Aluminum should be cut at around 1200 feet per minute (or whatever the
measurement is) and steel should be cut at about 120 feet per minute.  The
bandsaws made to cut wood are way too fast for cutting steel.  

It helps also to rub wax on the blade before cutting -- it keeps metal
(especially aluminum or stainless steel) from getting caked up in between
teeth.  When the teeth get plugged up the blade gets hot and the teeth get
ruined.

Maybe you can rig up some pulleys on your bandsaw to run it at a lower speed
for cutting steel.

I'd also use the fine tooth blade strictly for steel, and get a coarser blade
for cutting aluminum.  Aluminum jams up in between the teeth of fine blades
really quick -- which usually ruins the blade if you then try to cut steel
with it.

My bandsaw experience is all on a big "Do-all" machine which we have at work
-- it's a great machine, but it weighs about a ton and it's about the size of
a Yugo standing on end.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 10:36:25 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7459
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> The buick which had this light grey sludge (in the oil pan and a few
-> recesses in the head) has been in the family since about 1980 and it

 I was just reading an old "Ask Pennzoil" ad where a guy asked about
gray sludge.  Pennzoil told him it was probably due to the lead in
leaded gas.
                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 10:44:06 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7460
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
your site.  Example:  If you are at foo@bar.edu,

Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
try to extract a path from your mail header.  If it does not  work, this
slightly less dumb mail manager (me) will not intervene.  Include a path.

To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com with the 
following subject line:

Subject: drop foo@bar.edu

The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
subscribe with.

To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dixie.com.  Please
include  a meaningful subject line.  Inquiries, and other administrivia should 
be addressed to jgd@dixie.com.   

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
group at your site.  In order to ensure your post is properly returned
to the list, be sure to mark alt.hotrod moderated and point the mailfile
back to hotrod@dixie.com.

If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
to the list.  The list membership is approaching 300 which makes things,
ummm, interesting here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  See below for the archive site.

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of bounced
messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I must 
remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a 
short time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a
day of cushion.  The volume of messages on the list is seldom less
than 10 messages a day even on the weekend so if you don't get 
messages for a day, you know you're off the list.  Simply send a new
subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

ece.rutgers.edu archives the hotrod and the z-car mailing lists.  This is
available only via anonymous ftp.  Jialin Li is the contact.  
jialin@ece.rutgers.edu

Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
the university does not allow incoming anonymous ftp so new GIFs must
be mailed to Milam, met@sunset.cse.nau.edu.  

These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I maintain a mail file server on dixie.com.  This is primarily to support
articles in my magazine, Performance Engineering (TM) but it is also
useful to hotrod list members. Software for articles and other car-related
files are available.  To get a directory, mail to 

	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

address foo@bar.com                     <<-- optional.  Where you want it sent
Index

to get a file,

send file_name

If you get empty messages in return, that means the very sorry server
software I'm now using has crashed.  Send another request.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 14:38:23 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7461
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Are you sure it isn't a Pontiac tri-power?Mike

 Pontiacs use an air-gap manifold with a separate tin valley cover; it'd
be awfully hard to mistake one for a Chevy.  Same for the Cad 3x2.

 Hmmm... it might have been a big block Chevy manifold - they look
fairly similar, except for the extra bolt holes - but I thought all the
3x2s were aluminum.
                                                                              

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 14:43:19 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7462
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> -> The buick which had this light grey sludge (in the oil pan and a few
> -> recesses in the head) has been in the family since about 1980 and it
> 
>  I was just reading an old "Ask Pennzoil" ad where a guy asked about
> gray sludge.  Pennzoil told him it was probably due to the lead in
> leaded gas.
 
Thanks for the input Dave.  Although I've received differing opinions, they
all haveone thing in common -- the sludge is the "normal" byproduct of
some engine process.

Thanks again.

John


-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 John Greeven                               | "When you are racing, it's life.
 Intergraph Corporation                     |  Anything that happens before
 USPS: 381 East Evelyn Avenue               |  or after... it's just waiting."
       Mt. View, CA 94041-1530              | 
 Phone: (415) 691-6573                      |       -Steve McQueen, LeMans
 Fax:   (415) 691-9016                      |      
 E-Mail: greeven@clipper.ingr.com           |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!speedy.clipper.ingr.com!greeven (John Greeven)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 14:48:54 1994
Subject: Question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7463
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

John:

A doubter of the power of the internet who works with me posed a question.  
Could you try to answer this question and post it for me as well?


Thanks!
Matt Walsh
>-----------------message starts---------------<
Subject: Automotive Performance; Chevrolet V8's


1) How much horsepower can be safely pulled out of a 2-bolt 454 block, assuming 
.030 over cylinders, main studs, cast crank .010 under, and plate style nitrous 
oxide.

2) what is the failure mode; Where does the block let go?

3) repeat 1) & 2) for 2 bolt 350 block cast for passenger cars in the late 
70's.

Please mail replies to 
mtmq@walsh.dme.battelle.org

>-------------message ends-----------------<


----------
Posted by: MTM 'Matt the Mentat' Walsh 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 14:53:23 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7464
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
|On Jan 29,  2:40pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
|} Subject: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
|> 
|> -> He said it looked to have the hole for filling the oil thru the
|> -> manifold, and was painted factory Chevy orange.     Made out of good
|> -> ol' heavy cast iron.   GM stamps, didn't get the casting #'s.
|> 
|Are you sure it isn't a Pontiac tri-power?Mike
|-- 
|Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
|Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
|E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

I think they were 389's Mike... 

-- 
AT&T              |  '31 Model A - Blown SB, 2x4  |  (708)-859-4485
Phil Gunsul       |  '64 F.I. Corvette Coupe      |  prg@mgweed.ATT.COM
Montgomery, IL    |  Wanted: used police car...   |  AT&T Information Systems

----------
Posted by: emory!mgweed.ATT.Com!prg (Phil Gunsul - WB9AAX)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 15:01:05 1994
Subject: Re: Ally finishes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7465
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> Does anybody have any suggestions for finishes on alloy manifolds,
> rocker covers, etc ?
> 
> Plain old polishing or chrome plating is getting a bit boring so I was
> looking for something a little unique.
> The car is black with a really light touch of red pearl and the interior
> is red and black. 
> In keeping with this colour scheme I was going to get them anodised with
> a dark red which I think would look damn fine.
> The anodisers however, weren't all that keen on the idea as these types
> of items can come out looking awful due to the largely unknown metal
> composition. 
> 
> Of course the final finish has to resist the heat and gas and water.
> 
> Any ideas ?
> 

What about polishing them and spraying them with a transparent red finish?
I've seen this finish used for wheels and stuff.  It comes in spray
cans... might work, dunno if it would take the heat though. 

-kevin

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 17:38:49 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7466
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> -> Are you sure it isn't a Pontiac tri-power?Mike
> 
>  Hmmm... it might have been a big block Chevy manifold - they look
> fairly similar, except for the extra bolt holes - but I thought all the
> 3x2s were aluminum.
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
> 
Is there a casting date at the end of the part number stamp? Could this
be an old 348 manifold?

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 17:54:01 1994
Subject: new motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7467
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 The 454 I tried to get for my Bel Air last year sort of evaporated.
After I'd made the deal, someone offered the owner more money.  Pfft.
I was thinking about dropping the Mercury Marine 350 in, but it's only a
small block.  A car the size of a small European nation needs a BIG
block, right?

 A couple of weeks ago I got a line on another engine - a '71 Olds 455
4V, "complete".  Complete meant no air cleaner, but it had the fan, fuel
pump, an HEI distributor someone had dropped in, Quadrajet, exhaust
manifolds, power steering pump and brackets, alternator and AC brackets,
and a lockup T350 as part of the deal.  Price:  free, if I'd drive to
Wichita Kansas to pick it up.  Only 9 hours away...

 It's sitting on my shop floor now, all blue and enormous.  FIVE HUNDRED
foot-pounds of torque!  I had to leave the trans behind - my poor little
Japanese pickup sat right down on the tires when we tried to load it.
I guess it's time to start looking for a 4L60 or T700.

 It's supposed to run good, but I'm going to go ahead and pull it down,
change the timing chain, cam, and lifters, and do a valve job.  If, by
some chance there's a problem with the crank or a cylinder... well, ah
allus won't'd t' build wun o' them-there 500+ inch motors...
                                                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 20:47:13 1994
Subject: Question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7468
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> 1) How much horsepower can be safely pulled out of a 2-bolt 454
-> block, assuming .030 over cylinders, main studs, cast crank .010
-> under, and plate style nitrous oxide.

 A:  as much as you want.  Your limits will be in valvetrain and
     breathing.  Normally you wouldn't worry about short block
     troubles with the 454.


-> 2) what is the failure mode; Where does the block let go?

 A:  for catastrophic, usually rod failure.  For general annoyance,
     the big Chevys are hard on head gaskets.


-> 3) repeat 1) & 2) for 2 bolt 350 block cast for passenger cars in the
-> late 70's.

 A:  for normal motors, still no troubles.  Jenkins, Yunick, and
     Chevrolet themselves say there's no strength difference between
     the two bolt and four bolt blocks.  You're not going to break
     a crank unless you're doing extended (hours) +6000RPM operation.
     Again, your limits are usually with the valvetrain.

 A:  the small Chevy under high load usually dies due to cylinder wall
     or connecting rod lubrication failure.  The walls of #7 and #8
     tend to go, or the front two cylinders' rods.  The 7-8 cylinders
     have cooling and mixture problems that load them a bit more than
     the rest.  The front rod throws are always shorted on oil; the
     little Chevy is a bleeder, particularly if "racing" oil
     clearances were used.
                                                                                                              

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 20:59:49 1994
Subject: Buick 215 V8
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7469
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I just got a note in the mail from Baker Automotive:

"We have all the parts needed to build 215 or any combo of parts to
build 250-262-298 or 305" engines.  We are primarily in the business of
auto repair so do not have a catalog. - Phil Baker"

Baker Automotive
19552 40th Place NE
Seattle WA 98155

I don't have a phone for them.
      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  1 21:04:35 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7470
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


What was it that was on the old El Caminos? Was it 3 one barrels? I know
they were cast iron manifolds.

Tim



----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!brazil (Rent this space)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  2 01:41:31 1994
Subject: Is leaded gas the culpert?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7471
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Dave, 

You have mention. That the Pennzoil ad states the grey sludge was due to
leaded gas. Hmmmm. very interesting. Sounds like something I said.
Anyway, to ad more to my theroy. A friend of mine has a '56 Nomad he
drives every day. He explained to me that he went through a set of plugs
about 5k-6k miles. (350cid) He has owned that car for over twenty+ years
always tuning it up. He said it was a given to rebuild the carb ever
third or fourth plug change. 

This went on until oil companies stop selling pump gas with lead.
Naturally he was going to change the plugs again, but to his surprise
the plugs where clean only wear. He was confused. Until one day
a few of us realized that it was the leaded gas that caused the plugs
to fail. No giant discovery but the '56 has had the same plugs for
35K. The carb is doing much better as well. 

This all sounds strange to me. I'm sure not the only one that ran across
this little dilemma. It sounds like the oil companies and plug manufacturers
had a nice little deal going for a long time.

New plugs let's say every 5k-6k miles.

Now let me think. Unleaded gas arrive to the consumer around 74-75 
so that would mean their were aproximately 25 million cars mass
produce in the U.S. driving around on leaded gas. 

25 million x 8 plugs or 4 or 6 whatever = 200 million x $.50-1.25
each that = a lot of $$$$$$.

I know that there are many different factors to this but it sounds a little
sketchy to me.

It probably doesn't matter anymore but want the heck.

Oh yeah I agree with the Pennzoil ad guy. The grey sludge is from
lead not anything else. 

I'm sure there studies out there about just this theroy if anyone knows
lets here something. I really think lead had nothing to but help promote
wear and cause cars to have tune-ups more often then not.

My wife's Nissan is recommended for a new set of plugs at 65K.
they probably will still look good.

See ya
MPQ

Just my opinion. The ASK Group doesn't want my stinking opinion.

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  2 01:48:41 1994
Subject: Wanted: Ford Book
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7472
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi... I was wondering if anyone out there has or knows where to get a book
called  "Muscle Parts Story o n Parts Interchange and Description" (1970).All
I know about it is that it is by Ford, and it was published in 1970.  If
anyone has any info on it, like what sort of stuff is in it, I'd appreciate
it!

						--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  2 19:40:52 1994
Subject: Re: Is leaded gas the culpert?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7473
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 
> 
> Dave, 
> 
> You have mention. That the Pennzoil ad states the grey sludge was due to
> leaded gas. Hmmmm. very interesting. Sounds like something I said.
> Anyway, to ad more to my theroy. A friend of mine has a '56 Nomad he
> 

Sounds like it's time to collect some sludge and dust off that old Chem
textbook.  Shouldn't be too hard to determine if it's lead or not.

-kevin

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  2 19:47:45 1994
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7474
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>>Bob Hale         hale@brooktree.com

Is it Power??
If it is a power system you might be sucking the fluid into the engine.
Pull the vacuum line going to the booster and see if any fluid is in the line.
If the leak is slow it might not be up to the hose yet. Try sticking a string
in the nipple going to the  booster and see if you can get any fluid on it.
If you find fluid rebuild/replace the master cylinder.

I hope this helps

	-Keith

----------
Posted by: emory!EBay.Sun.COM!Keith.Hargrove (Keith Hargrove)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  2 19:52:39 1994
Subject: Information regarding TVR's Chimera
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7475
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I was over in the UK last week (on holiday) and saw one of these
cars...  Rather nice, actually.  There was also an article in the
sunday times talking about them.  Does anybody know if they
are or ever plan to be imported into the US?

Replies direct if you're concerned about b-with...

Thanks in advance!

Joe Leonard
jle@world.std.com

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!jle (Joe M Leonard)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  2 23:43:23 1994
Subject: The beginning of a great adventure
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7476
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Well, I did it.  I bought a 1964 Chevelle.  Its a pretty much rust-free
SoCal car, with a good straight body.  Its a project car that was
dumped for lack of space and because...

Its got a 283 0.060 over with a steel 327 crank and "double hump" heads
cut for 2.02 valves.  Intake is a cast iron Chevy 4bbl with a
Thermoquad.  The problem is that this knocks after a fresh 
rebuild ( less than 1000 miles ).  I am told the displacement here is
301 CID; can anybody verify that?

I'd like to yank the motor and plastiguage all the rod bearings.  Anybody
got a better idea?  It does sound like a rod bearing to me.
I have a big chain fall, air tools and jacks here at work.  I imagine
this will occupy my Saturday.

For the future, my general plan is
   get a good running motor -- this one or a replacement
      ( I'd love that 383 at the front of the Summit catalog... )
   interior refresh
   T700

When that is paid off
   dual circuit brakes
   disk brakes & new control arms

Finally
   rear end -- Currie is right down the street.
   paint

   

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb  3 14:05:33 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-5*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7477
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Monster Trucks                        02/03    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, MINERAL WELLS (T)02/03    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/03    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (LA auto show)              02/03    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/04    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
MIDGET NATIONALS, OKLAHOMA CITY (T)   02/04    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Motoworld                             02/04    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
AMA, Grand National Series            02/04    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
HYDROPLANE RACING, LAKELAND (T)       02/05    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Motoworld                             02/05    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/05    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (timing chains)    02/05    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             02/05    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
Winners (Geoff Brabham)               02/05    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/05    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (Live@Pomona)02/05    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/05    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
1993 ASA Delco Challenge Series Review02/05    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
SpeedWeek                             02/05    9:00-9:30PM      ESPN
SUZUKI CUP FINALS, ATLANTA (T)        02/05    9:30-10:00PM     ESPN
FUKUOKA SUPERCROSS, JAPAN (T)         02/05    10:00-11:00PM    ESPN
Secrets Of Speed (Emo flys a jet?)    02/05    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
Motoworld                             02/06    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/06    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/06    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Geoff Brabham)               02/06    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (Live@Pomona)02/06    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/06    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/06   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
AMA, CAMEL CLASSIC II, LOUDON (T)     02/06    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Geoff Brabham)               02 06    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (timing chains)    02/06    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty(dirt mod schol02/06    6:00-6:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/06    6:30-7:00PM      TNN
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/06    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans (Live@Pomona)02/06    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/06    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/06    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      02/06    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/06   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/07    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/07    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans @ Pomona (T) 02/07    1:00-1:30AM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     02/07    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
SpeedWeek                             02/07    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SYRACUSE (T)     02/07    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 02/07    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/08    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, OKLAHOMA CITY (T)02/08    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/08    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/08   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/09    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             02/09    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed (powerboats)         02/09    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, PEORIA (T)       02/09    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/10    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Movie: Cannonball Run II              02/10    9:30-11:20AM     MAX
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SPRINGFIELD (T)  02/10    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/10    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Mustang & Camaro, etal)    02/10    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/11    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
HYDROPLANE WORLD CHAMP., LAKELAND (T) 02/11    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

NHRA, (Fastest runs from 1993 season) 02/12    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    tba              tba
NHRA, SPORTSNATIONALS, ATLANTA (T)    02/13    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)02/13    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA TWIN 125'S (?)   02/17    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (?)                 02/19    tba              tba
NASCAR, 1993 Season Review            02/19    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:15PM          CBS
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS,BANDIMERE(T)02/20    2:00-3:25PM      TNN
SPRINT CARS, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)  02/20    6:05-7:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00-3:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:05-5:00PM     TNN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                03/05    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS (?)            03/19    tba              tba
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    tba              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (?)            03/20    tba              tba
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (?) 03/20    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (?)              03/26    tba              tba
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (?)               03/26 (live coverage unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (L)                 03/27    tba          ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/27    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 04/03    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (?)                 04/09    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              04/10    1:10PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, PHOENIX (L)                  04/10    tba              ESPN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (?)        04/10    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb  3 14:13:47 1994
Subject: smog stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7478
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I just got this in the mail.  Sorry about the quote marks.

-> 2/2/94
->
-> Northeast seeks tougher
-> vehicle pollution controls
->
-> By DAVID EVERETT
-> Detroit Free Press Washington Staff
-> WASHINGTON _ The Northeast took a controversial step
-> toward cleaning up its smoggy air Tuesday by agreeing to
-> seek tough, California-style controls on pollution from
-> cars and trucks.
-> The vote by a regional commission representing states
-> from Maine to Virginia rebuffed a less-stringent pollution
-> control plan from the auto industry. It also provided
-> another boost to the national development of nonpolluting
-> electric cars.
-> And it will likely affect the cost of vehicle
-> pollution controls nationwide, with automakers designing
-> cars and trucks to meet the tougher rules as more states
-> adopt them.
-> With federal approval the next step for the Northeast,
-> resistance is expected by automakers and by some states
-> that don't like being forced to have the same pollution
-> controls as the entire region. Environmentalists and
-> officials from most of the states involved lauded the
-> long-awaited decision.
-> ``Today's action represents a significant step towards
-> providing healthier air to breathe in the region,'' said
-> Arthur Davis, secretary of the Pennsylvania Department of
-> Environmental Resources and the commission member who cast
-> that state's vote.
-> The regional plan was approved 9-4 by the Ozone
-> Transport Commission, made up of officials from the
-> District of Columbia and 12 Northeastern states.
-> Opposing were New Jersey, New Hampshire, Delaware and
-> Virginia, where officials say they need more time to
-> determine the best ways to clean up their air. Some of the
-> four also made it clear they don't like California's rule
-> requiring up to 10 percent of new car sales to be electric
-> vehicles.
-> It's unclear whether electric car sales will be
-> required outside California. Automakers are challenging the
-> issue in court, and while the commission's plan says
-> electric cars are essential, it's broad enough to allow for
-> any watering down of California's rules by the courts or
-> federal government.
-> The auto industry, led by General Motors Corp., is in
-> court challenging the individual adoption of the California
-> standards by New York and Massachusetts. For weeks before
-> Tuesday's vote, the industry also tried to block regional
-> adoption by offering its own vehicle pollution plan.
-> That plan would have cut automotive pollution less than
-> the California rules and does not require the sale of
-> electric cars.
-> The American Automobile Manufacturers Association said
-> the industry will continue to promote its own plan.
-> ``We understand the pressures states face to develop
-> plans to comply with the Clean Air Act,'' the association
-> said. ``Our objective is to provide clean air at the lowest
-> cost to consumers.''
-> Indeed, the industry plan isn't dead. While Davis
-> insisted the commission wasn't ``playing games'' with its
-> vote for the California plan, it clearly left room for
-> negotiation. The resolution approved Tuesday even spells
-> out what the auto industry must do to advance its
-> compromise plan, including adding faster deadlines and an
-> electric car program.
-> The Northeastern debate is happening because
-> smog-spurring pollution from cars doesn't stop at state
-> lines. Congress admitted as much in 1990 when it
-> established the commission, which is now using its
-> authority to seek federal approval for a regional pollution
-> plan.
-> Over the next nine months, automakers and environmental
-> groups will negotiate with the states and with the U.S.
-> Environmental Protection Agency about how California's
-> rules will be applied in the Northeast.
                                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 14:08:08 1994
Subject: Re:  The beginning of a great adventure
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7479
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I'd like to yank the motor and plastiguage all the rod bearings.  Anybody
>got a better idea?  It does sound like a rod bearing to me.
>I have a big chain fall, air tools and jacks here at work.  I imagine
>this will occupy my Saturday.

	On my 350, it had a knock that I thought was a rod.  I removed
the plugs one at a time to listen for a change in knock. No detectable
change (maybe this could work for you, though).  Then, I pulled the oil pan.   
I could move the #7 rod with my hand.

	Try these two before yanking the motor (if you don't have a 
crossmember on the Chevelle frame). Good luck.

			Joe Kelly	'69 Vette

	

	


----------
Posted by: emory!zirconia.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 14:35:17 1994
Subject: The beginning of a great adventure
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7480
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Its got a 283 0.060 over with a steel 327 crank and "double hump"
-> heads cut for 2.02 valves.  Intake is a cast iron Chevy 4bbl with a
-> Thermoquad.  The problem is that this knocks after a fresh
-> rebuild ( less than 1000 miles ).  I am told the displacement here is
-> 301 CID; can anybody verify that?

 What you have is a 283 block and 327 crank; a 307 is what Chevy called
it.  307s were thought to be pretty low on the totem pole in their day,
but they're 1/8 bigger bore and 1/4 shorter stroke than a 305.

 You'd be hard pressed to find a better intake than the iron spreadbore,
so unless you just want the look of aluminum, keep it.  You also have
the best 4 barrel carburetor ever made - the ThermoQuad.  Jets and
needles for the TQ are getting hard to find nowadays - someone on the
mopar mailing list had found some old jet kits.  Holley never made
anything that could be fine-tuned like a TQ.

 If the car hasn't been backfitted with an HEI, I'd drop one in.
Otherwise, it sounds like a very nice motor.


-> I'd like to yank the motor and plastiguage all the rod bearings.
-> Anybody got a better idea?  It does sound like a rod bearing to me.

 You'd probably better look.  It's easier to pull the motor to check the
bearings than to try to fight a Chevelle pan around the crossmember.


-> ( I'd love that 383 at the front of the Summit catalog... )

 You'd get better bang for the buck by simply getting a small block 400.
     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 14:47:09 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7481
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 
> -> GMH Holden in Australia only ever released Q-jeted sbmall blocks to
> -> Aust,
> 
>  Are you certain?  The article I have (in an old Australian Street
> Rodder, I think) showed the 327 up to '72, and had a photo of the 3x2
> intake.
> 
>  Were they full of it, or was it some third-party thing like the Yenko
> or Callaway cars in the US, or the early Phase Falcons?
>                                                                            

Yep they must be a little full of it because ONLY the 68 HK monaro was
avaliable with the 327, plus chevy stopped making 327`s about 71 i
think???  The car you saw must of been someone`s personal slice exotica!

The only special production Chevy powered Holdens were the Bathurst
models, The only diff there was a 4 bolt main , better heads(not sure
what they were, maybe power pack`s or fullies) and cam.

What model cars was it you saw ????
I might bea ble to shed some light on it`s original equipment.


Justin...
 
Forget the carbs, go for the computer managed FI if you want
power,economy,low emissions,smoothness,etc *8^)


----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 15:02:45 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7482
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <0j83_x-@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> > Another hypothesis I have is perhaps it is a mixture of sludge and
> > water, which would form in an engine that didn't get much of a chance to
> > warm up.
Water in the oil is normally quite whitish, and you would notice it in
the rocker covers. Mayonnaise we call it. ( Salad Dressing )

> Slick 50 or any other additive.  My theory is that the grey sludge is a 
> residue resulting from the breakdown of antifreeze.  I believe this engine

Could be, but I would suspect that its lead powder from excessive blow-by,
and possibly fuel running into one cylinder.


--
~Paul

prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( prefered )
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 15:07:09 1994
Subject: Re: Dave's Reference Library, take 2
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7483
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>  Conclusion:
> 
>  The "Boyd Coddington" books are a thinly disguised rip-off.  Most of
> the Steve Smith Autosports books are too old to be worth much - as
> heavily advertised as they are, I was surprised to find some had been
> in print 20 years without updates.  A lot has happened in 20 years.

Hum. Times like this I am VERY glad in hung on to the "Prepare to Win"
articles from Sports Car Graphic! How how many of you guys have even seen
a copy? The PtW book is ~$au150... Bout the same for "Prep..."

Mind you, nuts and bolts have not changed much since the Army-Navy standard
effort eons ago. There have been some changes in name of some grades of
Loctite, plus a few new grades, and the like. But not much in basics bits
and track litter. ;-)


--
~Paul

prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( prefered )
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 19:28:40 1994
Subject: water emulsions revisited
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7484
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 About this time last year there was some discussion of water/gasoline
and water/Diesel emulsions.  Vince Reed looked up some papers on it,
then
the subject kind of died out.

 I just found a Popular Science "View Down the Road" article from July
1973.  It's in the usual gushing PS prose (and man, after reading
through
ten years of these things, I'm getting REAL tired of "the Wankel is the
be-all and end-all").

 The article ran most of a column, but here are the useful factoids:

- The English company Lucas CAV, supposedly the largest supplier of
  direct-injection pumps in the world, had done some work on water
  injection on Diesels.

- the PS article didn't state whether it was a fuel/water emulsion or
  injected into the airstream, but it was talking about a 50/50 mixture.
  For practical purposes that's either an emulsion or two separate
  injection pumps (this was before EFI, remember.  And 50/50 is a
  shitload of water!)

- with the 50/50 mix, Lucas said oxides of nitrogen emissions were down
  80%, and that "power loss was hardly perceptible."  I strongly doubt
  the last, but the NOx figures are believable.  Lucas also claimed
  smoke output was reduced.
                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 19:38:41 1994
Subject: Re: The beginning of a great advnt.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7485
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I'm pretty new to Internet News here at Univ.  of Maryland at College
Park, but an avid gearhead.  My major is mechanical engineering.  In
response to "The beginning of a great adventure:

>Its got a 283 0.060 over with a steel 327 crank and "double hump" heads
>cut for 2.02 valves.  Intake is a cast iron Chevy 4bbl with a
>Thermoquad.  The problem is that this knocks after a fresh 
>rebuild ( less than 1000 miles ).  I am told the displacement here is
>301 CID; can anybody verify that?

The 283 (stock) has a bore of 3 7/8 inches and a stroke of 3 inches.
The 327 (I had one in my '55 Chevy) has a bore of 4 inches and a stroke
of 3 1/4 inches.  The venerable 302 (both Ford and Chevy) have a bore of
4 inches and a stroke of 3 inches; i.e.: 327 block and 283 crank.  Your
engine should have a displacement of 316 CID.  This is from a 3.935-in.
bore (0.060 over) and a stroke of 3 1/4 inches.

BTW, the Summit 383 motor is built very well (450 hp) and GM's new 4L60
is a replacement of the THM 700R4.  You can look for it at a GM parts
store at any dealership.

Good luck!

Greg A. Westphal
@ gregaw.umd.edu

[Yo, greg.  Touch that  key every 75 chars or so.  Saves me from
having to de-mung your text.  Also, your email address is invalid.
>From the headers, it looks like gregaw@eng.umd.edu would be right.
Thanks.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!eng.umd.edu!gregaw (Greg A. Westphal)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 19:50:11 1994
Subject: Re: Catalog Suppliers for Auto Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7486
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Donna A. Lilly (bx970@cleveland.Freenet.Edu) wrote:
: I'd like to compile a list of all Auto Parts Catalog Suppliers.  If you
: know of any, please respond with the name and phone number (if you have
: it).  Thank you - I'll post the result for everyones use.
: -- 
:         Donna Lilly
:         Cleveland, OH

alls ya gotta do is open almos eny car-related mag and yu all will c
them listed, cetch as:

Summit Racing
Yearwood
Gary's Montclair
Juliano's

need I go on????

besides, someone in   alt.hotrod   has already done it...
so, I'm cross-posting to alt.hotrod so you can get it too

[email to listserv@dixie.com, in the body say "send vendors"  That
will return you Dave Williams' MASSIVE vendor list.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb  4 20:09:21 1994
Subject: Cheap accelerometers available
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7487
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have a chance to buy some buffered single-axis accelerometers that will be 
perfect for homemade G-analysts and similiar stuff.  These are 
NovaSensor +-2 G accelerometers.  Apply 6-15 vdc to the power terminals
and 0-5 vdc represenatative of -2 - +2 G comes out.  All in a nice 
1" square box with flying leads.  The chart indicates the thing to be
linear up to about +3.5 G, though not spec'd that high.  I have
available 4 pieces, of which I'm keeping two.  $150 each.  About
half price.  These are new and were bought for a project that fell through.
With datasheets.  I gotta have a committment within the next 24 hours
so don't delay.

73 John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion

"Dr. Kevorkian, please report to the Oval Office."

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb  5 15:39:23 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7488
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



 Ho> I recently opened up a Buick 340 with 100,000 miles and found quite a
 Ho> lot of sludge.  What was surprising was that the sludge had a light
 Ho> grey color. I would have guessed that sludge was very dark in color,
 Ho> black even.  Can anybody elaborate on this?

 Sounds like antifreeze mixing w/oil to me. Blown head gasket or bad
 intake manifold seal/gasket.

 Danny


... "Mr. Worf, fire phasers at Hotrod@dixie.com" ... Zzzzzap!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!danny.fitzsimon (Danny Fitzsimon)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb  5 15:47:35 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7489
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Yep they must be a little full of it because ONLY the 68 HK monaro
-> was avaliable with the 327, plus chevy stopped making 327`s about 71
-> i think???  The car you saw must of been someone`s personal slice
-> exotica!

 I didn't worry much about the 327 being quoted in the '70s, since
Ford/Australia built Clevelands up to '81, and Ford/USA nuked 'em in
'74.  Australian automakers typically didn't care much about what
Detroit was doing, you know.  


-> What model cars was it you saw ????
-> I might bea ble to shed some light on it`s original equipment.

 I have a huge stack of magazines a friend in Queensland has been
sending me for the last 12 or 13 years or so.  I'll dig through and try
to find out what the article was.
                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb  5 15:52:33 1994
Subject: Re: Ally finishes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7490
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: > 
: > Does anybody have any suggestions for finishes on alloy manifolds,
: > rocker covers, etc ?
: > 
: > Plain old polishing or chrome plating is getting a bit boring so I was
: > looking for something a little unique.
: > The car is black with a really light touch of red pearl and the interior
: > is red and black. 
: > In keeping with this colour scheme I was going to get them anodised with
: > a dark red which I think would look damn fine.
: > The anodisers however, weren't all that keen on the idea as these types
: > of items can come out looking awful due to the largely unknown metal
: > composition. 
: > 
: > Of course the final finish has to resist the heat and gas and water.
: > 
: > Any ideas ?
: > 

Why don't you consider using a high-temperature powder coating process?
I don't know if this process will provide the finish you need at high
temperature or even if it can be designed in a high-temperature 
format.  Most hot rodding magazines indicate that this coating is the
"wave of the future".  I don't know what this process costs, and what
all of its applications are, but it may be worth looking at.

-- Jonathan Crawford
   "Hell, I just type what Dan tells me to..."

----------
Posted by: emory!clark.net!arktech (Jonathan Crawford @ ArkTech)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb  5 21:40:02 1994
Subject: test ignore
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7491
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I told you you shouldn't read this!!!!!

:-)

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion

"Dr. Kevorkian, please report to the Oval Office."

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb  6 16:41:07 1994
Subject: Re:  The beginning of a g
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7492
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 >I'd like to yank the motor and plastiguage all the rod bearings.  Anybody
 >got a better idea?  It does sound like a rod bearing to me.
 >I have a big chain fall, air tools and jacks here at work.  I imagine
 >this will occupy my Saturday.

 Ho> On my 350, it had a knock that I thought was a rod.  I removed
 Ho> the plugs one at a time to listen for a change in knock. No detectable
 Ho> change (maybe this could work for you, though).  Then, I pulled the
 Ho> oil pan.    I could move the #7 rod with my hand.

 Ho> Try these two before yanking the motor (if you don't have a 
 Ho> crossmember on the Chevelle frame). Good luck.

 Even with a crossmember, he could jack up the engine, loosen the motor
 mounts and remove the pan.

 Danny

... Tagline fever is the primary symptom of the Blue Wave epidemic!!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!danny.fitzsimon (Danny Fitzsimon)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb  7 05:50:40 1994
Subject: Re: NOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7493
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Regarding you message about NOS, no, it can be run in a totally stock engine,
but if you have an old engine, you can get the same problems associated with
putting in a bigger cam.. more horespower means less engine life. any time.
If you honestly belive you will only hit the button once and a while, well, 
more power to you. personally, every time I pulled up beside anyone, I had to
hit the button. wether I could beat him easily or not.
nos means hotter engine temperatures. and with hotter engine temps, you get de
tonation, and other problems. if you have a good running engine, NOS will not
do significant damage to it (no different than putting 125 hp worth of performance parts into it.) but, if you have a tired old engine, it will die.

  David Stevens

----------
Posted by: David Stevens 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb  7 16:47:17 1994
Subject: RE: Information regarding TVR's Chimera
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7494
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> I was over in the UK last week (on holiday) and saw one of these
> cars...  Rather nice, actually.  There was also an article in the
> sunday times talking about them.  Does anybody know if they
> are or ever plan to be imported into the US?

Since no-one has said anything I guess I'll try, this is my first post on 
the net so go easy if I get anything wrong!

The Chimera is built by a small British company in the north of England 
(TVR Engineering), they have been making cars since the 50s (perhaps even 
earlier), starting with kits. All their cars have been various types of 
sports cars, all built on tubular chasis with GRP bodies. They have a 
reputation for excellent performance, good traditional handling (no 
traction control, rear wheel drive etc), loud exhausts and, until 
recently, slightly doubtful finish.

Increasingly since the mid 70s they have had (for a European car) big 
engines - initially European Ford V6s, and later adding versions of the 
Rover 3.5 V8 (I think this was based on a Buick/Olds engine). The current 
model range is three cars:-

Griffith - a sports/racer with a heavily modified version of the Rover 
engine (TVR now claim that they mostly build it), it is bored out to 5.0, 
the body is very curved, very distinctive, and has been a big hit for 
TVR. Earlier models had the slightly more standard 4.0 and 4.3 engines, 
also tuned versions of the Rover V8.

Chimera - The story goes that the head of TVR was horrified to see 
Londoner's driving Griffiths around the city (he saw the Griffith as a 
sports/racing car for the open road), so he made a slightly softer car 
(slightly quieter - at least for a TVR, with softer suspension and a 
bigger trunk) better suited to mixed driving. The body is similar to the 
Griffith, but with slightly more conventional lines. This is available 
with either a 4.0 or 4.3 V8.

S4C - A more traditionally shaped sports car, with the Ford 2.9 V6 
engine,earlier versions of this has been around since the late 80s

Certainly TVR have had a long (although I'd guess small volume) history 
in the US. The first Griffith was named after a US racing driver who 
replaced a 1600 in an early TVR with a US V8, he then won a lot of races 
and TVR put the car into production for the US market; I hear that you 
need to have part of your brain removed to make full use of the power! I 
don't know whether the current range is exported, I think that TVR make 
less than 1000 cars a year, and that currently there are  waiting lists 
for them. The current models do have Cats, although I don't know whether 
the engines are suitable for US emissions standards. I recently read an 
interview with the owner of TVR reprinted from a Japanese magazine 
printed in '92 that indicated that TVR weren't planning to concentrate on 
the US market, but I'd treat this as a dubious source.

If you want to know why not call the factory on +44 253 356151

Hope this helps

- Greg Dowling
1989 TVR S2
1970 Triumph Spitfire Mk3

----------
Posted by: Credit Suisse Financial Produ 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb  7 16:53:06 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7495
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  Ho> I recently opened up a Buick 340 with 100,000 miles and found quite a
>  Ho> lot of sludge.  What was surprising was that the sludge had a light
>  Ho> grey color. I would have guessed that sludge was very dark in color,
>  Ho> black even.  Can anybody elaborate on this?
> 
>  Sounds like antifreeze mixing w/oil to me. Blown head gasket or bad
>  intake manifold seal/gasket.

Danny, could you explain why you think this sludge might be the result of
oil and anti-freeze mixture?

Regards,

John

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 John Greeven                               | "When you are racing, it's life.
 Intergraph Corporation                     |  Anything that happens before
 USPS: 381 East Evelyn Avenue               |  or after... it's just waiting."
       Mt. View, CA 94041-1530              | 
 Phone: (415) 691-6573                      |       -Steve McQueen, LeMans
 Fax:   (415) 691-9016                      |      
 E-Mail: greeven@clipper.ingr.com           |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!speedy.clipper.ingr.com!greeven (John Greeven)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb  7 18:53:24 1994
Subject: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7496
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  Dave's story about book-buying rang true this weekend:  I was searching
the used bookstores for whatever.  A small tome called "Small Engine Repair"
caught my eye, so I bought it for US$5.

  Weird book; I liked it since it seemed to have a bit more theory than
most books of this type, and also has chapters on setting up your own
business and home shop.  Addresses issues like lighting, parts storage,
etc.  Published in 1977, so probably a little out of date but that shouldn't
matter a whole lot with small engines.

  I found one chapter particularly interesting, the one on the Wankel.
I never knew that Sachs peddled some small rotaries for use in lawnmowers,
and another for snowmobiles and motorcycles.

  The book gave me the idea that the Sachs rotary made it into lots
of Polaris and Artic Cat snowmobiles, and was supposed to be put into
the Hercules motorcycle.  Has anyone ever seen one of these beasts?
The cutaway diagrams made it look very compact, and this gives me
ideas for a racing kart application.  It would sure be more fun than
building just another 100cc Yamaha.

  Know of a rotary snowmobile in your neighborhood?  We don't have too
many here in NC.

  Ron "Wank This" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 07:51:23 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7497
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>   I found one chapter particularly interesting, the one on the Wankel.
> I never knew that Sachs peddled some small rotaries for use in lawnmowers,
> and another for snowmobiles and motorcycles.
> 
>   Know of a rotary snowmobile in your neighborhood?  We don't have too
> many here in NC.

When I was at UTexas, we had a 300cc Sachs snowmobile engine mounted
in an older SAE Mini-Baja car.  Apparently UTexas had used the Wankels
for Formula-SAE cars in the mid 80's.  According to my faculty advisor,
they quit using them because they were getting really hard to find parts
for.  The engine we shoehorned into the Baja car was one we found
burried in the stockroom...  also found some extra seals and gaskets,
adapted a B&S carb to it and fired it up.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 07:56:49 1994
Subject: RE: Information regarding TVR's Chimera
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7498
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Increasingly since the mid 70s they have had (for a European car) big
-> engines - initially European Ford V6s, and later adding versions of
-> the Rover 3.5 V8 (I think this was based on a Buick/Olds engine).

 You forgot the 289 Ford powered TVR '289', built before Rover got the
Buick motor.


-> The current model range is three cars:-

 When did they stop making the Taimar coupe?
                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 08:01:42 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7499
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>  The book gave me the idea that the Sachs rotary made it into lots
>of Polaris and Artic Cat snowmobiles, and was supposed to be put into
>the Hercules motorcycle.  Has anyone ever seen one of these beasts?
>The cutaway diagrams made it look very compact, and this gives me
>ideas for a racing kart application.  It would sure be more fun than
>building just another 100cc Yamaha.

>  Know of a rotary snowmobile in your neighborhood?  We don't have too
>many here in NC.

There were a few back in the neighborhood in MN.  Not too many in L.A.
though.  If memory serves me right, the Polaris RXL had one.  I'm not
sure about the displacement, but it put out more power than the 650 and
got slightly better mileage to boot(probably from being FI).  RXL's and
650's ran neck and neck most of the time at mind blistering speeds for
sleds.

You could also find rotary engines in Sea-Doo Bombadier(sp?) water toys
Last figures I remember hearing were along the lines of 50HP from a 400
and change engine.  It's been a few years, but I think that is in the
ball park.

I bet a rotary engine would be fun in a kart.  Let us know how it turns
out.

Ryan
kinter@scf.usc.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!aludra.usc.edu!kinter (Fireball)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 17:30:35 1994
Subject: Mo Motor Qs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7500
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Well, I yanked that 283 ( 316 ) out of my Chevelle, put it on the stand
and looked at be bearings.  All the mains look worn.  The light grey
"matte" of babbit is visible around all the edges, but the burnished
look of oil-starved babbit is visible in all the centers.  Nothing too
bad, though.  No real cuts.  

Although I did not look at all the rod bearings, the ones I looked at were
in worse shape than the mains.  The bearing material was burnised across
the whole surface on a few, and on the #4, there was copper showing through
in a section about 1/4" by 1" on the cap bearing.  To me this indicates
a real hosing at one point.  

Also, when I pulled the pan, I got the unmistakeable smell of motor oil 
that has seen hard times and high temps.  

So my question is, what should I do?  The steel crank looks ok everywhere.
Yes, there are a few grooves, but they are hard to feel with a finger.
Can I just slap a new set of bearings in there and drive it for a while?
I did this with a 1600 Kent in a Fiesta and ran it for years ( until I
went down a bumpy dirt road, plugged the fuel filter, leaned out, broke 
off a piston dish and still drove it home.  Piston parts in the cat. --
really.  )

If I pull the crank, measure it, pull the rods measure them, and they seem
round ( when torqued and clamped ) can I get a few thousand miles out of 
this motor?  The cylinder walls look good, as do the pistons.  If I were to
pull the heads, exactly what should I look for there?

I am looking for relability.  I feel that I could just be fooling myself
when playing with this thing.  I want to just put the whole "motor kit"
in the want ads, and buy a replacement, but I have a desire not to spend
the $ for a replacement.  If the motor was clearly wasted, I'd just buy
another, but it is a close call.  Whaddaya think?


Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 17:58:33 1994
Subject: RE: Information regarding TVR's Chimera
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7501
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



> -> Increasingly since the mid 70s they have had (for a European car) big
> -> engines - initially European Ford V6s, and later adding versions of
> -> the Rover 3.5 V8 (I think this was based on a Buick/Olds engine).
> 
>  You forgot the 289 Ford powered TVR '289', built before Rover got the
> Buick motor.
Oops - sorry - TVR history is far too complex for me to remember, as you 
probably know they've done all manner of things, and just to make life 
hard they don't change everything when you expect (for example on the S 
series the S1 has the 2.8 Ford, the S2 has the 2.9, but there are some 
late S1s with the 2.9!)

Is the 289 anything to do with the early Griffith? What type of body did 
it have?

>> 
> -> The current model range is three cars:-
> 
>  When did they stop making the Taimar coupe?

Around 1980 I think. The Tasmin range, I think, replaced the various 
Taimar/ M / 3000S ranges. The new S series in around '87 was intended to 
recapture the feel of these cars, compared to the Tasmins that became 
increasingly more powerful and expensive -  the 450SEAC being the most 
extreme - 4.5 V8, plus a very light body built of various composites - 
GRP was too heavy!

I think that the Griffith / Chimera is a probably a replacement for the 
Tasmin, although I hear they aren't building many S series at the moment.

----------
Posted by: Credit Suisse Financial Produ 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 18:03:41 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7502
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Apparently UTexas had used the Wankels
>for Formula-SAE cars in the mid 80's.  According to my faculty advisor,
>they quit using them because they were getting really hard to find parts
>for.

  This sucks.  That pretty much precludes any of my project ideas.
The book in question specifies a number of parts as "impossible to
remachine, replacement necessary."  The chamber body, for one.

  The seals would appear to be the item most often in need of
replacement, and probably made of unobtanium to boot.

  Too bad.  That would be an interesting thing to see...

  Ron "Oh Well" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 18:27:05 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7504
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
>   The book gave me the idea that the Sachs rotary made it into lots
> of Polaris and Artic Cat snowmobiles, and was supposed to be put into
> the Hercules motorcycle.  Has anyone ever seen one of these beasts?
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
>  
> 
Look in the March 1994 issue of Walneck's Cycle Trader, page 61.
There is an ad showing a Hercules W-2000 (fuzzy pic, though) for:

Sam Costanzo
Rotary Recycle
5868 Mayfield Road
Mayfield Heights, OH 44124
(216) 461-4644

The ad says he wants to BUY Hercules, so I can't tell if he is a dealer 
or just an enthusiast.

By the way Suzuki also produced a Wankel bike, the RE-5.

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 18:27:34 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7505
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
> I bet a rotary engine would be fun in a kart.  Let us know how it turns
> out.

It's more fun than 8hp Briggs, but I think I'd rather have a goodsized
OHC 4-stroke.  

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 18:30:15 1994
Subject: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7503
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I never knew that Sachs peddled some small rotaries for use in
-> lawnmowers, and another for snowmobiles and motorcycles.

 Hercules/DKW built a Wankel motorcycle back in the late '60s.  Suzuki
built the RE5 in the '70s, and that was pretty well it for Wankel bikes.
Arctic Cat (I'm fairly sure it was them) built both snowmobiles and
lawnmowers with Sachs rotaries, and there were even Wankel snow blowers
for a while.

 I've been digging through about 25 years' worth of old Popular Science
magazines, stripping data.  Man, talk about hard sell on the Wankel!
Alas, despite all the early propaganda, they're still expensive to make
and not particularly efficient, plus the emissions problems.  It was
interesting to read about the progress of the GM Rotary Engine project
over the years, until it finally got killed off.

 My wife has had an RX7 since '86, and it looks like its second engine
is getting ready to bite the big one.  Oil consumption is up and it's
starting to suck coolant, those are usually signs of impending death on
a rotary.  AB has been after me to drop that extra 302 I have in it.
I'd originally thought about using the Buick V6, since I have one of
those in the shed, but she wants the V8.  And she wants the 2.29 posi
I've been saving for a rainy day.  I mean, having a wife who's into cars
is OK, but she's pillaging my parts supply.  On the other hand, the
swap would be worth it, just to watch the reactions of the Rotary
Believers.


-> Ron "Wank This" Rader

 Been hanging around with those Brits again, eh?  


-> Dave "Dirty Deeds, Done Dirt Cheap!" Williams
                                                                                                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 18:52:28 1994
Subject: California -vs- Non-California Emissions, etc.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7506
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



So.  You buy a car in California, then move to another state.
Questions arise:

Are exhaust systems on new cars sold in California more "restrictive"
than elsewhere?  How much more?  Just what is the difference; is it a
fancier catalytic converter?  If you replace that part which makes the
difference, does this mean you should replace the EPROM "chip" too?

Also:
If you replace your car's standard EPROM "chip" with one that a performance
shop says will "give you more performance", will you run the risk of shortening
the life of your engine/transmission (assuming you haul-ass more)?  What about
voiding the car manufacturer's warranty/extended_warranty?


Anyone out there know the *real* scoop on this?  Opinions are welcome too.....



---
_____________________________________________________________________________
John Eaves              | TIVOLI Systems, Inc.        | Phone: (512) 502-4725
                        | 6034 W. Courtyard Dr. #210  |   FAX: (512) 794-0623
jme@tivoli.COM          | Austin, TX 78730, USA       | Main#: (512) 794-9070

----------
Posted by: emory!tivoli.com!jme (John Eaves)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb  8 18:59:39 1994
Subject: Cadillac Club
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7507
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I just bought a '61 Caddy and am looking for info on any Cadillac
clubs here in Texas or elsewhere.

Thanks!

Gregg

----------
Posted by: emory!fmrco.com!gregg (Gregg Pitkin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 10:53:19 1994
Subject: AutoNotes #11
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7508
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


=====================================================================
AutoNotes #11, 02/08/94                   copr. 1994, Dave Williams
---------------------------------------------------------------------
  BIX: 'dave2'     CIS: 72571,3542      dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
               The Courts of Chaos BBS, (501)985-0059
    usenet mailing list and  paper mail subscriptions are available
=====================================================================

 The sway bar end links on the '94 Ford Taurus are made of plastic.
"Ultraform copolymer acetal resin" to be exact.  Yuk.  Let me know how
it works when you hit a pothole on a cold Minnesota day.

 BASF - yeah, the magnetic media people - are trying to interest
Detroit automakers in their new plastic pedal assemblies.  Yep, gas,
brake, and clutch pedals, their pivots, and the bracket, all in one
nylon plastic assembly.  I don't care how much CAD/CAM software they
used, you're talking about 400 pounds or more of pedal load on a panic
stop, multiplied 4 or 5 to one to the master cylinder.  A panic stop
on a cold day, and I'd be worried about snapping the pedal off.  No
thanks, there are just some parts God intended to be made out of
steel.

 Chevy's 4.3 Vortec V6 gets plastic valve covers this year.  Chevy
says they're quieter, and they save money.  How much money does Chevy
save on a $15,000 vehicle?  35 cents per cover, or 70 cents per car.
And they quiet engine noise by 3.5 dbA.

 Chrysler's Neons will be using a plastic intake.  They're claiming
they're the first US-built automobiles to do so, but I guess they
never heard of the Cadillac Northstar.  Anyway, the Neon's manifold is
made of Nylon 6/6 injection molded around a tin/bismuth core.  The
metal core has a lower melting point than the plastic, and is removed
by simply melting it out, just like lost-wax casting.  The nylon melts
at 565F, the metal at only 300F.  Why isn't wax used?  My best guess
is that it would tend to flow at injection molding pressures.

           ==================================================

 Britain's Ricardo Consulting Engineers firm has developed a new type
of differential.  It's a variable-torque posi, and from the drawing in
Automotive Industries it looks like a type of cam and yoke mechanism.
The text of the article says it depends on lubricant film and pressure
for operation.  Looks like we'll have to wait for a better article to
find out how it works.  Ricardo has been around since 1919 and Sir
Harry's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine" is still a
basic reference, so it's not like these guys just got off the boat.

           ==================================================

 Mazda has at least one 13B rotary powered Miata running around.  It's
a testbed for their hydrogen fueled Wankel.  They also have a 13B
powered 626 test car.

 Nobody's said what the range is for the hydrogen cars.  Hydrogen is
bulky stuff, and Mazda is supposedly storing it in some sort of
hydride form, heating it to release the hydrogen.  Sounds even lower
density to me.  Besides the problem of *getting* hydrogen to fuel the
car with, the size of the tanks are going to severely limit either
range or cargo capacity.  At a rough guess, a hydrogen car would have
many of the same tradeoffs as an electric.

 The hydrogen motor supposedly injects the hydrogen into the
combustion chamber through a separate hydrogen port, apart from the
air port.  Thus, all mixing takes place in the chamber.

 I mentioned Mazda's Miller cycle engine a couple of issues ago.  More
info - 2.2 liter, 4 valve V6, supercharged.  Mazda claims a CR of 8:1
and an expansion ratio of 10:1, nowhere near as ambitious as the old
Crower Mileage System.  For all practical purposes, it's a
supercharged 8:1 2.2 liter engine, therefore Mazda's claim of 50% more
torque is reasonable.  No Miller cycle engine will ever even match an
Otto cycle engine for power output at lower RPMs unless it's crutched
by a blower of some sort.

 Actually, this whole "Miller cycle" thing is a farce.  It's just a
big camshaft, and those have been around ever since engineers
discovered overlap.  What goes around comes around, etc.

 The Design News article on the Mazda Miller cycle engine gives all
figures in metric, except for rating horsepower as "220 ps."  Since
when is anyone using old German "pferdestarke," superceded by metric
watts long ago?

           ==================================================

 Many of the car magazines are going nuts, ooh'ing and aah'ing
Mistibishi's new retractable hardtop on the 3000GT.  Like Honda's Del
Sol, it's an old '50s Ford idea.  I guess these new "journalist" types
running the car magazines now never heard of a Ford Skyliner.

           ==================================================

 Off on a different tangent, Bede airplane kits are back.  The BD-10
is $250,000 (and you put it together), plus another $100,000 for the
engine.  It's a little jet, rated at 595mph, though Bede claims it's
"theoretically capable" of Mach 1.4.  Bede also claims it's "the first
high performance kit-built jet."  I guess he doesn't remember the
BD5-J, though he might not have actually sold any.  My old ROTC unit
had bought a BD-5, and Bede never sent all the parts we paid for.
Caveat emptor, und so weiter.

           ==================================================

 Budget Rent-A-Car just ordered 500 Jaguar XJ-6s for their rental
fleet.  I guess they figure not everyone is on a budget.  It's
reportedly Jaguar's largest single sale.

           ==================================================

 Design News had an article on composites in race cars and sports
equipment, but when discussing the drivers of F1 cars, they used the
oh-so-politically-correct "he or she" instead of "he" (or "they",
which some English books suggest for unknown sex.)  Get real - how
many female Formula One drivers are out there?

           ==================================================

 GM has been quietly marketing their "Vision Enhancement System" to
police departments.  It's a car-mounted infrared vision system
developed by Delco and Hughes.  They're quite proud of their
invention, but I guess they didn't know a British company was selling
a very similar system about 20 years ago, for use by fire and rescue
teams.

           ==================================================

 The proposed Volvo-Renault merger fell through.  Volvo's shareholders
weren't real happy about giving a foreign company much control, and
Renault is still a ward of the French government, enjoying special
protection and benefits.

           ==================================================

 Dave McClellan, the chief engineer in charge of developing the
current Corvette, has resigned from GM and gone to work for Porsche's
American design branch.

           ==================================================

 Mercedes claims it has developed an "efficient" air conditioning
and heating system for electric vehicles.  Its major feature seems to
be use of a dehumidifier.  A plain old GM Harrison air conditioner
takes around 10hp to drive, and I have no idea how much heat is pumped
through the average heater/defroster.  Car heaters generally use
"free" waste heat, but there's nothing free with electrics.  I'd guess
2000 to 3000 watts goes for heat in the winter, not to mention the
juice it takes for things like electric defoggers, windshield wipers,
headlights, and the like.  Now, if you could get rid of those
batteries and run a *real long* extension cord...

           ==================================================

 Toyota's Japanese-market Carina sedan now comes with what they claim
is the first combustion pressure sensor used in a production engine.
This is a nice piece of technology - it's a sensor that's screwed into
the head, just like a spark plug.  Monitoring combustion pressure is
a more accurate way of controlling the spark than by using a knock
sensor.  Once it knocks, it's too late.  Hopefully the sensors will
show up in US models soon, and we technoids can scam them.

=====================================================================
  AutoNotes is published irregularly as the mood hits.  Contains no
  cyclamates, backwards-masked messages, FNORDs, or recycled fibers.
=====================================================================
                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 11:09:00 1994
Subject: Mo Motor Qs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7509
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> If I pull the crank, measure it, pull the rods measure them, and they
-> seem round ( when torqued and clamped ) can I get a few thousand
-> miles out of

 I'd borrow or buy a dial caliper and check the journal sizes.  If the
thing is standard but worn you might get away with some .002 or .003
undersize bearings.  There's probably no problem with the rods unless
the shells have spun.  Stick it back together and just drive it.

 Option 2, if the crank is severely worn, is to check local regrind and
bearing prices.  You can order a 307 crank and bearings from PAW for
cheaper than you can have a crank turned locally.
                                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 11:22:58 1994
Subject: 283 bearings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7510
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'd take the rods to get them resized, or at least the ones with the shot
bearings.  I had a minor knock in a 350 which hammered the round hole in the
big end of the rod into an egg shape.  The rod which had the knock was so
out-of-round that they couldn't even resize it.  If you leave it out of
round, you'll have problems pretty soon.  I think it's only a few bucks per
rod to have them resized.

If you had one of those non-drilled cranks, I'd get it drilled and tapped so
you can bolt the harmonic balancer on tight.  I had a harmonic balancer fly
right off of a 283 and another one crack and tear the crank to hell on a 350,
so I'm very leary of those un-drilled cranks.

Good luck,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 11:48:37 1994
Subject: RE: Information regarding TVR's Chimera
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7511
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Is the 289 anything to do with the early Griffith? What type of body
-> did it have?

 I thought the Griffith was a separate marque from TVR.  I know there
was a Griffish 289 as well, but I've never seen anything connecting the
Griffiths with TVR.  Of course, I'm hardly a TVR expert.
       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 12:04:19 1994
Subject: I gotta burn my El Camino
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7512
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is a tragic day.  Today I learned I must burn my El Camino and
scatter the debris at the bottom of the ocean.  And it was such 
a good old truck too.  Why?  Cuz ole Bubba Bill Clinton had one.
Said so today on the news.  Claimed he had astroturf in the back for
reasons no one would want to know about.  How sad.  Another 
great marque irrepairably soiled.

Whoof!

John


-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion

"Dr. Kevorkian, please report to the Oval Office."

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 12:35:01 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7513
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> > I bet a rotary engine would be fun in a kart.  Let us know how it
-> turns > out.
>
> It's more fun than 8hp Briggs, but I think I'd rather have a
> goodsized OHC 4-stroke.

 I have an old 750 Honda engine I haven't ever got rid of.  It runs, and
I always thought it'd be interesting to stick it in a kart type chassis
and go autocrossing.
                                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 12:38:27 1994
Subject: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7514
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>> I bet a rotary engine would be fun in a kart.  Let us know how it turns
>> out.

>It's more fun than 8hp Briggs, but I think I'd rather have a goodsized
>OHC 4-stroke.  

  Anybody familiar with karting with old-timer knowledge they'd like
to pass on, please give 'rlr@bbt.com' a buzz.  I'm a rank newbie in
this domain, and am really looking for a relatively cheap way to
get involved in racing and have lots of fun to boot.

  Ron "Thanks In Advance" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 12:47:56 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7515
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Alas, despite all the early propaganda, they're still expensive to make
>and not particularly efficient, plus the emissions problems.

  Expensive to make I can see.  It's got to be a manufacturing nightmare
to machine those few moving parts to spec.

>  It was
>interesting to read about the progress of the GM Rotary Engine project
>over the years, until it finally got killed off.

  Hey Dave, sounds like it's time for another one of those anthology
posts of yours... I for one would be curious to see what you've
gleaned from all those old mags re: the Wankel.

>I mean, having a wife who's into cars
>is OK, but she's pillaging my parts supply.

  For some reason, this strikes me as hilarious.  Send her out to
the boneyards with a gas wrench! ;)

>  On the other hand, the
>swap would be worth it, just to watch the reactions of the Rotary
>Believers.

  I'm no R.B., I'm just somewhat intrigued by the Wankel since it
strikes me as a very clever process and suited to certain applications.
Full-bore use for long periods of time, fer instance.

  Why is Mazda still using the rotary, long after everyone else has
bagged it?  Are they machining/manufacturing gurus?  Or is the RX-7
just so expen$ive that it doesn't matter?

  Ron "Heck, I'd Like To See Someone Resurrect The Gas Turbine;
       That's It!  A Turbine Kart!" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 12:57:07 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7516
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In message   writes:

>  Hercules/DKW built a Wankel motorcycle back in the late '60s.  Suzuki
> built the RE5 in the '70s, and that was pretty well it for Wankel bikes.

I believe Norton is still making a rotory street bike.  I read it in Cycle Mag 
(I think) about a year ago.  

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 13:11:47 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7517
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
>   This sucks.  That pretty much precludes any of my project ideas.
> The book in question specifies a number of parts as "impossible to
> remachine, replacement necessary."  The chamber body, for one.
> 
>   The seals would appear to be the item most often in need of
> replacement, and probably made of unobtanium to boot.
> 
> Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
> 
Last night a was reading a book called "Dream Bikes" a coffee table size
book which looked at quite a few newer idea and production cycles. Turns
out that Norton also produced a Wankle bike in the mid-late eighties.

The fist thousand were produced for police use, then a few hundred for
civilian sale in the UK.  Their rotary was designed to use standard
seals straight from the Mazda parts bin!

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 18:54:29 1994
Subject: 350/wankle
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7518
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Ron, The Seadoo mentioned earlier runs a 2 cylinder 2-stroke. Very nice
motor. Seadoo also makes a 600 or 650 3 cylinder. Very cool I've ridden one
in a three seater Seadoo very fast even with two people. As for rotory
that pertains to the type of propellor being used in the "Seadoo".
Westcoast performance in Orange, Ca. specializes in speed parts for jet-skis
and Seadoos. Anything from Fuel injection to blocks very good quality. If 
they can't Help you then I'm lost. There # is 714-630-4414.

Frank, 

Sounds like no fun to me. Anyway If you really want the cool mobile
try just buy a complete motor from a good junkyard. I know that sounds
bad but there are a lot of them in So. Cal. Try looking through the recycler
or yellow pages for the junkyard or engine wholesaler that sells complete
motors. You might come across a 350 TPI complete with computer for $1000 bucks
Not a bad deal. I know of a couple junkyards on Manchester in Anaheim, Ca.
that specialize in late model chevys and fords. They'll sell you a complete
with transmission for about $1500.00 with low miles.

Image late 350TPI in a chevelle. What a beauty! I used to live in So.Cal.
and my buddies and I would always scope the goods for the deals.

Good luck gentleman.

See ya 
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 18:55:16 1994
Subject: Rod Knock (?) (was Re: The beginning of a great adventure)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7519
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



>  The problem is that this knocks after a fresh 
>rebuild ( less than 1000 miles ).
>
>Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)

I ran into a know on a small block Chevy once that was louder and deeper 
sounding than a valve tap, but something more like a rod knock.  It never
got any worse, so I just kept driving it.  I never did find what was making 
the racket until I had to replace that junky Holley mechanical fuel pump.  
Some how it was making the noise - maybe the pump shaft was too short for 
it, I don't know. 

Any way, something to think about.

Pete (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil)
| Pete Paraska       (paraska@oasys.dt.navy.mil) |

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!paraska (Pete Paraska)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 19:03:06 1994
Subject: Re: *really* small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7520
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


If you want to mess with a *really* small Wankel, there was once (still
is?) a Wankel model airplane engine.

  Brian

---
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com

----------
Posted by: emory!pms706.pms.ford.com!bkelley (Brian Kelley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb  9 19:17:44 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7521
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave T:

>The fist thousand were produced for police use, then a few hundred for
>civilian sale in the UK.  Their rotary was designed to use standard
>seals straight from the Mazda parts bin!

  

  Still promising, but considering the amount of money I'd have
to spend on something as esoteric as a "few hundred" civvie engines,
the 100cc Yamaha 2-stroke class is looking better and better.

  Did that "Dream Bikes" list any specs for this Norton rotary?

Dave W:

> I have an old 750 Honda engine I haven't ever got rid of.  It runs, and
>I always thought it'd be interesting to stick it in a kart type chassis
>and go autocrossing.

  Back when I was working on a friend's kart ('81 or so) there was
this guy who shoehorned a 750-4 Honda engine in his kart.  It was
cool; he kludged up a pretty clever arrangement to drive the clutch
and transmission via hand levers on the steering wheel.

  Of course, he couldn't really race it except in whatever passed
for an Unlimited class, and it was fairly prone to oversteer.
But once that guy hit the straight, watch out!

  Ron "Hmmmm" Rader

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 19:10:50 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7522
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <2j7246$bof@aludra.usc.edu>, Fireball  wrote:
>hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>>  The book gave me the idea that the Sachs rotary made it into lots
>>of Polaris and Artic Cat snowmobiles, and was supposed to be put into
>>the Hercules motorcycle.  Has anyone ever seen one of these beasts?
>
>	You could also find rotary engines in Sea-Doo Bombadier(sp?) water toys
>Last figures I remember hearing were along the lines of 50HP from a 400 and 
>change engine.  It's been a few years, but I think that is in the ball park.
>
The engine in a Sea-Doo is a 2 cylinder 2-stroke, not a rotary.  It's called
a ROTAX because it has rotary valves as opposed to piston port or reed valves.


			Chris Demke
			chris@sundude.jpl.nasa.gov

----------
Posted by: emory!sundude.JPL.NASA.GOV!chris (Chris Demke)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 19:18:00 1994
Subject: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7523
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Anybody familiar with karting with old-timer knowledge they'd like to
-> pass on, please give 'rlr@bbt.com' a buzz.  I'm a rank newbie in

 No knowledge, but a couple of questions:

a)  since karts don't have suspensions, they don't have any of the
normal geometry we sprung guys take for granted.  Is the chassis left
flexible to a degree, or is all tuning done with tire pressure?

b)  what kind of caster/camber/kingpin inclination do racing karts
use?  I saw a couple of el-cheapo kiddie karts at Sears with what looked
like 30 degrees of caster.  Yowza!

c)  are there any books on setting up kart chassis?
                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 19:19:02 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-6*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7524
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SPRINGFIELD (T)  02/10    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/10    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Mustang & Camaro, etal)    02/10    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/11    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
HYDROPLANE WORLD CHAMP., LAKELAND (T) 02/11    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             02/12    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/12    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (fuel injectors)   02/12    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             02/12    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
Science & Tech. Week(land speed record02/12    11:00-11:30AM    CNN
Winners (Sleepy Tripp)                02/12    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/12    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/12    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/12    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA, (Fastest runs from 1993 season) 02/12    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, QUALIFYING, DAYTONA (SD) 02/12 :-)8:00-9:30PM      ESPN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HOURS (T)            02/12    9:30-11:30PM     ESPN
Secrets Of Speed                      02/12    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/13    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, QUALIFYING, DAYTONA (T)  02/13    3:00-4:30AM      ESPN
IMSA, DAYTONA 24 HOURS (T)            02/13    4:30-6:30AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/13    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/13    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Sleepy Tripp)                02/13    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/13    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/13    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/13   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Science & Tech. Week(land speed record02/13    12:30-1:00PM     CNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (SD)02/13    2:00-2:30PM      CBS
NHRA, SPORTSNATIONALS, ATLANTA (T)    02/13    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
ARCA, SUPERCAR 200, DAYTONA (SD)      02/13    3:30-5:30PM      ESPN
Winners (Sleepy Tripp)                02/13    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (fuel injectors)   02/13    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SpeedWeek                             02/13    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)02/13    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/13    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/13    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/13    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      02/13    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/13   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/14    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Mel Kenyon)  02/14    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
SpeedWeek                             02/14    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
ARCA, SUPERCAR 200, DAYTONA (T)       02/14    1:00-3:00PM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SACRAMENTO (T)   02/14    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
Speedway America                      02/14    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 02/14    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, POMONA (T)       02/15    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/15    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/15   11:30PM-12:00AM   ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/16    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed (fly with Emo)       02/16    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National, 1993 highlights   02/16    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA, CAMEL PRO, SAN JOSE (T)          02/17    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/17    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Neon, Acura NSX)           02/17    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
AMA Camel Series                      02/18    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (SD)                02/19    8:30PM           ESPN
NASCAR, 1993 Season Review            02/19    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:15PM          CBS
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS,BANDIMERE(T)02/20    2:00-3:25PM      TNN
SPRINT CARS, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)  02/20    6:05-7:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00-3:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:05-5:00PM     TNN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                03/05    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, START (L)     03/19    9:30AM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, UPDATE (L)    03/19    1:30PM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, FINISH (L)    03/19    10:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    tba              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (?)            03/20    tba              tba
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (SD)03/20    10:00PM          ESPN
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (L)              03/26    1:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (?)               03/26 (live coverage unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (L)                 03/27    tba              TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/27    1:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (T)                 03/28    12:00AM          ESPN
IHRA, WINTER NATIONALS (T)            04/03    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 04/03    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (L)                 04/09    2:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              04/10    1:10PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, PHOENIX (L)                  04/10    5:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (?)        04/10    tba              tba
NASCAR MODIFIEDS, N. WILKESBORO (L)   04/16    1:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (L)        04/17    1:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, PACIFIC (SD)               04/17    7:50AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
INDYCAR, LONG BEACH (L)               04/17    tba              ABC

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 19:45:30 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7525
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Expensive to make I can see.  It's got to be a manufacturing
-> nightmare to machine those few moving parts to spec.

 The rotors aren't that bad.  It's the housings that get expensive.


-> Hey Dave, sounds like it's time for another one of those anthology
-> posts of yours... I for one would be curious to see what you've
-> gleaned from all those old mags re: the Wankel.

 Hmm... I might do that!


-> >I mean, having a wife who's into cars
-> >is OK, but she's pillaging my parts supply.
>
> For some reason, this strikes me as hilarious.  Send her out to the
> boneyards with a gas wrench! ;)

 Oh, she wouldn't mind.  She'll go out, hike through half a mile of mud
in the rain, and help me pull cylinder heads and bring them back.  I'm
afraid to let her learn how to use the torch.  There's no telling what
would happen then.


-> Why is Mazda still using the rotary, long after everyone else has
-> bagged it?  Are they machining/manufacturing gurus?  Or is the RX-7
-> just so expen$ive that it doesn't matter?

 Mazda has a metric shitload of money tied up in Wankel development.
They're the undisputed kings of the rotary; notice Audi/NSU and Comotor
aren't building any Wankels any more.  Also, Mazda initially gave their
Wankel project to a young engineer named Keinichi Yamamoto.  He's now
CEO of Mazda, unless he retired here recently.  (he said he was going
to)  Mazda was initially going to go all-rotary, but they wound up
having to drop piston engines in their sedans to keep up with the
emissions and fuel economy regs, and because they never quite solved
the expense problems with the rotary.  So they shoved the rotaries up to
their most expensive cars where the price hit wasn't so bad.  I suspect
Mazda keeps the rotary RX7 around for two reasons - to drop it would be
to lose face, and to keep it is to display their technological prowess -
"our engineers can beat your engineers!"
                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 19:50:49 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7526
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I believe Norton is still making a rotory street bike.  I read it in
-> Cycle Mag (I think) about a year ago.

 Technically, it'd be more appropriate to say "Norton is *finally*
making a rotary street bike."  They announced theirs about 25 years ago,
then put out a near-endless stream of prototypes, show bikes, and race
bikes.  Finally they made a very few "production" bikes for British
police, and finally actually started selling to the public just two or
three years ago.
                                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 19:52:19 1994
Subject: I gotta burn my El Camino
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7527
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> This is a tragic day.  Today I learned I must burn my El Camino and
-> scatter the debris at the bottom of the ocean.  And it was such a
-> good old truck too.  Why?  Cuz ole Bubba Bill Clinton had one. Said
-> so today on the news.  Claimed he had astroturf in the back for
-> reasons no one would want to know about.  How sad.  Another
-> great marque irrepairably soiled.

 If you'll dig through the stack of magazines to your right as you face
your terminal (assuming you haven't moved them) you'll find a Car and
Driver or some similar picture book (and shame on you, John) with an
article near the back on the Clinton Museum in Hot Springs, AR.  In the
article it has a picture of Clinton's '67 Mustang, which the article
claims is the only automobile Dollar Billy had ever owned, and at that
he didn't have it on the road long.

 Back when I was in high school, we called people like that "car sucks."
They always wanted a ride, and it was just a few miles out of your
way... what?  Pay for gas?  You must be kidding...


 Besides, if you burn the ElCo, that family of field mice living in the
upholstery will probably move into the house.
                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 20:11:46 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7528
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>   Did that "Dream Bikes" list any specs for this Norton rotary?
I don't know anythink about bikes, but I think that Norton won the Isle 
of Man TT with one of these. I saw a TV programme about Norton about a 
year ago, and they mainly made bikes, but they also make Wankels for 
other uses. I think that the DOD were using one for some kind of drone, 
the  Norton guy who was talking about it (who was definately a believer) 
said that it was because it has a great power to weight ratio, and small 
size.

I guess a brave man could put one of thes in a kart.

----------
Posted by: Credit Suisse Financial Produ 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 20:12:58 1994
Subject: RE: Information regarding TVR's Chimera
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7529
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>  I thought the Griffith was a separate marque from TVR.  I know there
> was a Griffish 289 as well, but I've never seen anything connecting the
> Griffiths with TVR.  Of course, I'm hardly a TVR expert.
I checked my books last night, the car they describe as the Griffith 200 
& 400 had a 4.7 engine which sounds like the 289 you are talking about. 
They also said that in the US (only 20 stayed in the UK) they were sold 
under Griffith's name (he was the importer), other TVRs were also sold 
under the name Jomar, again based on the name of the importer.

I'm also no expert but it sounds like a guy could spend his whole life 
trying to understand the history of TVR!
- Greg 

----------
Posted by: Credit Suisse Financial Produ 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 10 20:22:38 1994
Subject: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7530
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Anyone seen any test reports in any of the car mags on the new Twisted Wedge
heads (by Trick Flow) for the SB Chevy?   I've seen lots of ads but no
reports.  Look like a pretty good deal though,  Summit has them for $800.
One of the cheapest aftermarket Aluminum heads I've seen.

       ________
      /______ /
            //          Paul Richer
        __ //_          paulr@lsid.hp.com
       /__ __/          Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
         //             '71 240Z - 350 Chevy
        //______        '72 510
       /_______/


----------
Posted by: Paul A. Richer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 01:58:58 1994
Subject: Re: Mo Motor Qs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7531
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod Frank Evan Perdicaro writes:

>Well, I yanked that 283 ( 316 ) out of my Chevelle, put it on the stand

So people don't look at you like you're out of your mind, you should
call it a 307.  :)

>So my question is, what should I do?  The steel crank looks ok everywhere.

Have a machine shop check it.  Turning the crank is pretty cheap, if
required.

>this motor?  The cylinder walls look good, as do the pistons.  If I were to
>pull the heads, exactly what should I look for there?

How did you check the cylinder walls without pulling the heads?
If it was burning oil you may as well.  Otherwise skip this
comment and save yourself the $$ --
If there's no ridge in the top of the cylinder (between where
the top ring runs and the very top of the bore) you can probably
"patch up" this engine with a new set of rings and bearings.
If the ridge is pretty noticable, refer to the machinist again.

>I am looking for relability.  I feel that I could just be fooling myself
...
>another, but it is a close call.  Whaddaya think?

There's a price for reliability.  The machine shops I deal with
have always been pretty straightfoward in telling me whether
it was close enuf that I could get by with just rings and
bearings.  If boring is required you approach "replacement"
cost real fast.

While the machine shop is looking at it be sure to find out
*for sure* how much the main and rod journals have already been
turned (if at all) and the exact size of the bore, so the parts
you order will be the correct ones.  As a double check, either
"STD", "010", or "020" is usually stamped on the back of the
rod and main bearings -- to indicate how many thousandths
undersize the crank has already been turned.

BTW -- The 283s, 307s, and 327s are some super engines, IMHO.
Not intended as a "brag", but my little 283 gets good mileage 
*and* will run with, or in front of, many 350 powered cars.
The old iron was pretty darn tough.  Cheers to '60s powered
rods everywhere!

-greg

-- 
Greg Parmer				INTERNET:  gparmer@acenet.auburn.edu
Lead Specialist, Network Support	VOICE: (205) 844-9660
Alabama Cooperative Extension Service	FAX: (205) 844-3501
Auburn University, AL  36849-5646	

----------
Posted by: Gregory A. Parmer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 11:05:55 1994
Subject: Karting (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7532
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> a)  since karts don't have suspensions, they don't have any of the
> normal geometry we sprung guys take for granted.  Is the chassis left
> flexible to a degree, or is all tuning done with tire pressure?
> 

	The Karters I'v etalked to say they like a little flex then no
more. Tehy say it's faster to corner on two wheels and if their fast they
do.

 > b)  what kind of caster/camber/kingpin inclination do racing karts
> use?  I saw a couple of el-cheapo kiddie karts at Sears with what looked
> like 30 degrees of caster.  Yowza!
> 
> c)  are there any books on setting up kart chassis?

Hey dave

	I just got such a book at the goodwill sale yesterdAY.  It's by
leroi "tex" Smith and called Karting.  I don't have a kart but I'll pay a
dolar for a book with a quickchage for a go Kart.  it was writtren in the
70's. He say's 7-10 degrees for caster 7-10 for king pin inclination.  He
says to ignore camber. 1/16 of an inch toe in he even talks about
akerman.

        Henry Sommer               Mechanical Engineering student
        gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu   Georgia Institute of Technology     

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 18:49:20 1994
Subject: Re: I gotta burn my El Camino
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7533
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>This is a tragic day.  Today I learned I must burn my El Camino and
>scatter the debris at the bottom of the ocean.  And it was such 
>a good old truck too.  Why?  Cuz ole Bubba Bill Clinton had one.
>Said so today on the news.  Claimed he had astroturf in the back for
>reasons no one would want to know about.  How sad.  Another 
>great marque irrepairably soiled.

Say it isn't so! It must be another case of media disortion or media
defects!! How could the Bubbadent have owned an el Camino? 

It must be a conspiracy to rid the world of classic chevies...

Kevin Martinez
lps@rahul.net
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 Kevin Martinez    lps@rahul.net    Member of the Julie Kangas Fan Club
 Those Roly Poly Fishheads told me what to write...            Mmmmmm!!
------------------------------------------------------------------------

[Speaking of tragedies, it just came in that Neil Bonnett has been
killed in a crash at Daytona.  A moment of silence.  Damn, this 
is getting old.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Kevin Martinez 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 18:54:27 1994
Subject: Forwarded: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7534
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-------
Forwarded mail follows:

>hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List in the guise of Chris D.) writes:

The engine in a Sea-Doo is a 2 cylinder 2-stroke, not a rotary.  It's called
a ROTAX because it has rotary valves as opposed to piston port or reed valves.


			Chris Demke
			chris@sundude.jpl.nasa.gov

 ummm, the reason it is called a ROTAX engine is the same reason a SACHS is
called a SACHS and a JLO a JLO... ROTAX is the name of the Bombardier
subsidiary that builds the engines.

Walt K.



-------

----------
Posted by: emory!halibut.nosc.mil!koziarz (Walter A. Koziarz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 19:05:05 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7535
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Isecond that.   Some real world type dyno numbers on a real world engine
would be nice.  Perhaps even a before/after run down the strip too?
 
I'm getting a little gun shy on 'revolutionary engineering feats' like
new head designs, and gee-golly whiz-bang spark plugs at six bucks apiece.

       --dan

----------
Posted by: emory!troi.egr.msu.edu!burkdani (Daniel Robert Burk)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 19:16:40 1994
Subject: Karting (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7536
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> dolar for a book with a quickchage for a go Kart.  it was writtren in
-> the 70's. He say's 7-10 degrees for caster 7-10 for king pin
-> inclination.  He says to ignore camber. 1/16 of an inch toe in he
-> even talks about akerman.

 Ackermann in a kart?  Now that'd be something to see.

 I'll give you double your money plus postage for that book.  
                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 19:40:59 1994
Subject: Who makes the 2.5L Cutlass fur
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7538
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



HELP !!!
  I have a 1983 Olds Cutlass Ciera that has an ailing engine. It is a 
  2500 CC EFI four and it sounds like a sticking lifter or valve.
  I checked to see what a rebuild would cost and could't believe it.
  It was about $1700 for a long block and almost $1200 for a short block!
  Even the short block price is more than I paid for my 350 Chevy.
  My question is... does anyone know who actually makes this engine?
  Is there an equivakent engine from a Japanese auto? That is my real hope
  because we have a local guy here who buys Japanese engines direct from
  Japan. The engines come out of cars that can't be put on the road for
  one reason or another and are usually fairly low miles. If I can find
  one to match my car it will only cost about $400 and that includes 
  a carburator, and I think a transmission!

  If noone knows maybe someone knows a way to find out - short of looking
  thru all of the repair manuals for Japanese autos.

  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  Just Bob

----------
Posted by: emory!sr.hp.com!bault (Bob Ault)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 11 19:47:33 1994
Subject: I agree, 283s are great.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7539
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have to agree that 283s are great engines!  They do seem to be more
powerful than you would expect out of 283 cubes.  They rev fast (maybe
because of the short stroke?) and they have lots of low-end power for their
size.  I don't know why, but I always liked how a 283 sounded compared to a
350.  Is there anything about it that would make it sound different?

The sound you get when you DECELERATE down a hill or something in either a
big old Impala or an old truck is GREAT.  Especially when it's got way over a
100,000 miles on it (when it's just getting broken in).  -- and especially
when you've got dual exhaust and dinky little glasspacks!

I don't know why, but a 350 just can't duplicate that blappity purr you get
out of a 283.  

Some of the coolest sounding cars I've ever heard were things like lowrider
'58 Impalas with 283s with dual rectangular exhaust tips coming out under the
rear bumper.

Ford 289s sound cool too, as do 292s.  Maybe the secret is having a dinky
engine in a big car :)

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Feb 11 23:13:54 1994
Subject: Re: SAE papers on-line?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7537
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	One good deal that SAE has is the Bosch Handbook.  852 pages of
descriptions definitions formula's ( :!) and numbers (coeficent of
friction for brake pad = .5). the third editon cost me 20$ with my 10$
student membership (at least they discount that) I think it's ussualy 40$.
 Their magazine has gotten increasingly more interesting. i don't know if
the quality has gone down but the variety has gone up.

Henry Sommer

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 13 11:49:05 1994
Subject: RE: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7540
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Someone asked about small Wankel engines... I fogot all about it but I believe
the Vespa P200 motor scooter in my back yard has a small rotory engine.  I'm CA
right now doing atmoshperic research, but when I get home I'll check my
chilton's on it.  
On a side note, does any one know how to get a vehicle (like my vespa) titled
when it was purchased without a title?  I suspect that I might have problems
getting a title from the origional owner (the previous owner bounced a check a
few times before he finally paid in cash.  I doubt the seller is willing to be
helpful).  I have been told that I can buy a frame and title for this thing for
about $200.  Can I do this and transfer over parts?
- Steven Ciciora

----------
Posted by: "Ciciora Steve" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 13 11:58:41 1994
Subject: Engine builder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7541
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I've got a question for all those motor builders out there,We are running 
an IMCA Modified this year on the dirt (3/8 mile track), in this class they
have a $500.00 ($300.00 U.S) claimer rule on all motors.What I'm wondering
is if there is anyone who can give me some tips on how to make a small
block Chev into a torque monster. We are planning on running gas this
year just to keep cost down (spent $10,000 on a roller Harris chassis -
there goes the budget!!!). Were using a torqueless Power Glide and a 
9" full floater.I'm looking for something that would be a mid track 
runner, after we get the chassis down then we'll put some money into
a front runner motor...
    If anyone has any ideas please E-mail me
                              thanks
                         Gary Kostiak
                        Edmonton, Alberta
                             Canada

--
Gary Kostiuk   kos@ersys.edmonton.ab.ca   
Edmonton Remote Systems   Serving Edmonton/Northern Alberta since 1982

----------
Posted by: emory!ersys.edmonton.ab.ca!kos (Gary Kostiuk)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 13 12:07:50 1994
Subject: Re: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7542
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>-> Anybody familiar with karting with old-timer knowledge they'd like to
>-> pass on, please give 'rlr@bbt.com' a buzz.  I'm a rank newbie in

> No knowledge, but a couple of questions:

>a)  since karts don't have suspensions, they don't have any of the
>normal geometry we sprung guys take for granted.  Is the chassis left
>flexible to a degree, or is all tuning done with tire pressure?

Yup, the chassis *is* the suspension.  Most tune there Karts by running
rubber grommets between any and all bolt for ancillary components such
as nerf bars, muffler mounts, front and rear bumpers (although the rear
bumpers usually have a sliding wedge/rod for further adjustment).  Its
beem my experience that the seat is contibutes more to chassis stiffness
that any other.  It spans nearly half the chassis and as such, has the
most effect.  With rubber sandwiched between everything, a quick tighnening
of a nylock here and there changes the "suspension" dramatically.
Some karts have the front and rear sections of the kart connected by
a single tube, with clamps that slide along to adjacent tubes from different ends
of the kart...  move the clamp towards the free end, stiffen up the kart.
	 _________
	/         \
       /|         |\
       \|  front  |/
        \         /
         |_______|
         ||1   2||
         ||     ||
         ==     == <- sliding clamps
         ||     ||
          |_____|
         / 4   5 \
	/---------\
	|	| |
	|	| |
	|	|_|

The seat attaches to points 1,2,3 & 4.

>b)  what kind of caster/camber/kingpin inclination do racing karts
>use?  I saw a couple of el-cheapo kiddie karts at Sears with what looked
>like 30 degrees of caster.  Yowza!

You dasent want duh young'ns tuh go and kill themselves now would y'all?

20 degrees isn't uncommon.  Sometimes even higher on dirt tracks.  Some
karts don't even have an adjustment for caster/camber.  Those that don't
usually have an vertical adjustment for corner weighting (again, usually
dirt).  The standard caster/camber adjustment is via nasty eccentric top
locating mount.  Different eccentrics are all but unavailable, so I'm
machining up a bunch my self.  When I got the kart I couldn't get the
camber I wanted w/o having astronomical caster values, and burning the
inside of the tire on hairpins.  Engine development is pretty far along
in karting, but when it comes to chassis technology, its pretty much
"what is the other guy running" mentality... pretty green.

>c) are there any books on setting up kart chassis?

No good ones :-) One of the two books I have contains a decent section
on chassis setup.  Nothing spectacular.  Basically 20 pages of "and
a grommet between the nerf-bar and chassis at all mounting points
will facilitate adjustment once you get to the track[...]."  Either,
_4-Cycle_Karting_Technology_ or "the other one" which I can't remember.
I'll bring'em in monday.

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

         Ban low-performance drivers, not high-performance cars.

----------
Posted by: emory!wrs.com!johnson (David Johnson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 13 16:44:05 1994
Subject: Hummers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7543
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Looking for information on Hummers,  new or used.  Is there any ex-military 
vehicles out there ?  Are there hard to find ?  Looking for addresses of new 
dealers.  Any help much appreciated.

Greg.

----------
Posted by: emory!nbnet.nb.ca!kinnong (Greg MacKinnon)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 01:40:33 1994
Subject: RE: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7544
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> On a side note, does any one know how to get a vehicle (like my
-> vespa) titled when it was purchased without a title?

 Many states draw a line between "scooter" [motor-driven cycle, moped,
etc] and "motorcycle."  Here in Arkansas, scooters don't need titles or
license plates.  The statutory cutoff is at 5hp.

 It'd be worth checking on, anyway.
                                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 01:46:06 1994
Subject: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7545
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Got a question from you guys who are experienced at trailer towing.  I'm
about to buy a dual axle trailer that weighs about 5000 lbs loaded.
Assuming I geta  Class  hitch installed, will it be practical
to tow this setup with my 79 El Camino?  The El Camino is about 
to get a fresh small block but it doesn't have anything heavy-duty
at the present.  I anticipate having to install a larger radiator, a tranny
cooler and probably a larger alternator.  What I'm concerned about is the basic
dynamics of the setup.  I once towed 4 tons of sand with my 
Datsun Z and I'll tellya, being pushed across an intersection at about
15 mph with all 4 wheels locked isn't any fun.  Since I'm going to be
towing this thing a LOT, I'm concerned about how well it tows.  I'd
love to buy a larger truck but that's not in the cards.

Thanks,
John

Oh, in case anyone is wondering, Big John's Mobile BBQ is about to hit
the car, crafts and street show circuit.  Something I've always wanted
to do and it'll let me pay the bills for and keep publishing PE mag :-)

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion

"Dr. Kevorkian, please report to the Oval Office."

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 15:54:31 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7546
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If you gotta tow it this way, you gotta, but...

You won't be happy with acceleration with the smallblock.  If you have
a light-duty transmission, it will also suffer.  The tranny cooler is
mandantory.  I don't think you will need a bigger alternator.

My dad towed a heavy two-horse trailer with a huge Mercury Grand Marquis
station wagon, which is now in my possession.  The power was fine (460),
the transimission (C6) required regular rebuilds.  I have towed my Mustang
road race car with this wagon as well.  On the most recent rebuild, I
put an RV torque converter and a shift kit in it.

Even with the big wagon, there are two weak spots: braking and
rear-end sway.  Under severe braking, the rear of the wagon gets
pushed all over the place.

I have been unhappy enough with the safty of towing with the wagon
to have purchased a 3ton F700 crew-cab dually.  It is actually a
bit slower than the wagon (I'll be fixing that soon), but the braking
and handling difference is enormous.

I think you can do it, but be careful.  I suspect you will be rebuilding
your transmission a lot.  Use semi-metallic pads on the front. Make
sure your trailer brakes work.

PS: I own a 240Z.  Four tons of sand, are you kidding???

[Thanks for the info.  I figured the Elky would be marginal but if
it will work until the money starts flowing, I'll buy a box van
which is what I really need.  As to the Z, yes indeed.  Imagine
a large horse trailer but without the top.  Now imagine towing this
thing over to the concrete block yard to get some flue blocks, a couple
of bags of mortar mix and 500 lbs of sand.  Now imagine a front end
loader operator that gets carried away and fills the trailer to the 
brim with wet sand.  No extra charge and I'm only a couple of 
miles from the house so I go for it.  Couldn't move the rig with
the clutch so launching it was a case of 5500 rpms and sidestepping
the clutch.  Tire smoke for MINUTES.  About a quarter mile from
home I got stuck on the lip of the pavement where one road rose
a little to meet the other.  Ended up calling my dad who came over
with his bronco.  I made it home with the bronco strapped to the
front towing lugs!  Hey, you can do that in a small town. :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:05:39 1994
Subject: Re: Hummers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7547
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I saw an ad on TV the other day for the Hummer.  It said to call
1-800-REAL-4WD.  You might give it a try.

-kevin

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:15:01 1994
Subject: Re:  Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7548
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

5000 lbs with an El Camino?  Hmmm.

I see two classes of problems.  First, is the short wheelbase.  It will
make bumpy roads really unnerving.  I'd probably get a weight-distributing
hitch and make sure my trailer shocks were very good.  Also, you might
mount two anti-sway bars to your El axle.  Turning while braking in
this rig might be exciting; make sure your trailer brakes are working.

Second will be overheating of the tranny.  I assume you have a TH350.
Get a cooler, an outlet temp. probe, a fan for the cooler.  You could
probably use the 10" fan and Fanstat that is often advertised in HRM.
Wire up an override so you can put on the fan when approaching hills.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:20:25 1994
Subject: More Chevelle stuff.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7549
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Well I spent Sunday looking at my Chevelle parts.  As I took the 307 apart
I started adding up the repair costs.  Distributor.  Tappity tap tap tap:
Ching.  Regrind and tap crank;  All new gaskets; resize some rods; the
!@#$@$ cam has one bad lobe; tap tap tap: Ching.  Spalling on some valve
stems; new brackets; new filters; new wires; new sending units.  Ching
ching ching.  On and on. And the total is...

GM here I come.  I'll be taking a new 345 HP 350 CID right off the
shelf from Cone Chevy, thanks.

So, I have a nearly complete Chevy power unit for sale.  
   
   307 with steel crank needing a regrind.  
   "Double Hump" heads with 2.02 valves, recently refreshed.
   GM iron 4bbl Hi Po intake
   Points distributor

   Everything else except the alternator and Thermoquad

   Plus, you must take the solid-running TH350, with a tranny cooler
   and stock converter.

All this is palletized and deliverable in the LA area.  
Priced for quick sale: first $250 gets most of it...


On the good side, though, I took out the interior and had a look at
the floor pan.  It is nearly perfect after 30 years, with a minute
amount of surface rust in a few spots.  I plan to re-cover the seats
soon.  Anybody care to say a few words about uhpolstry application for
GM cars?

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:26:06 1994
Subject: Engine builder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7550
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> an IMCA Modified this year on the dirt (3/8 mile track), in this
-> class they have a $500.00 ($300.00 U.S) claimer rule on all
-> motors.

 Holy Christ.  That won't even pay for a between-seasons freshen-up,
much less a whole motor.  I guess your next decision will have to be
"how much can I afford to lose if I get claimed" vs. "how bad do I want
to be competitive."  I don't know what your competition is like, but
you're going to be hard pressed to put much together below $2500.

 I don't remember the exact IMCA engine limits, but if you want to type
in the basics and a dollar figure, we could make a stab at getting you
the best bang for the buck.
                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:33:09 1994
Subject: Re: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7551
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> _4-Cycle_Karting_Technology_ or "the other one" which I can't
-> remember. I'll bring'em in monday.

 Thanks for the info!  I take it you've run karts before?
                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:40:38 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7552
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Dan Burk writes:

>Isecond that.   Some real world type dyno numbers on a real world engine
>would be nice.  Perhaps even a before/after run down the strip too?
> 
>I'm getting a little gun shy on 'revolutionary engineering feats' like
>new head designs, and gee-golly whiz-bang spark plugs at six bucks apiece.

I think I'd rather have flow numbers for the intake and exhaust at
each .1 of valve lift.  Dyno numbers can really lie.

For the small block Chevy, there are a bunch of really excellent heads
already available.  The new TFS heads have not yet been proven
reliable or competitive.  Also interesting is the version for the LT1
block.  That version in particular seems unproven and I wonder how
well it will work out.  The price does look excellent and they do make
excellent products for the Ford.  Still, there are a lot of great
heads available for the Chevy and I'd be more inclined to go with a
Brodix or Airflow Research head (but the price isn't the same and
without flow numbers, we can't begin to compare the performance).

These heads were supposed to hit the market well over a year ago for
the Ford (which TFS used to specialize in).  I had to write a letter
to get on the waiting list.  The Ford version was supposed to be
vastly superior to the old Ford TFS head (and cost significantly
less), and that does say a lot.

As I understand things, TFS had money problems.  The company was purchased
by Summit.  Since the majority of Summit's business is in Chevy stuff,
that is the version they are producing at this time.  The Ford version
isn't expected until Spring.

If anyone does get flow numbers, please post'em (and be sure and get
specifics of the configuration - valve sizes, and how many inches they were
flowed at).  I guess what I'd be looking for is all of the parameters
necessary to model the heads in Engine Analyzer Pro (and I'd need 
specifics on the intake and exhaust runner dimensions as well).  But
I already bit the bullet and am running J302's on my Ford, so my personal
interest level in the heads is not as high as it once was (unless they
really are incredible, because the price is very good).

I am also curious how good the finish machining is.  That is rather 
critical for any serious application and poor machining can really 
drive the cost up.  Do these "ready to bolt on" heads need to be milled
flat?  Is the valve job good, or is there chatter?  Is the intake side
cut properly and true?

  Brian


---
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com

----------
Posted by: emory!pms706.pms.ford.com!bkelley (Brian Kelley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 16:50:58 1994
Subject: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7553
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Assuming I geta  Class  hitch installed, will it be
-> practical to tow this setup with my 79 El Camino?

 The ElCo wouldn't be suited to towing it far or fast, but for what you
were talking about it'd be powerful enough.  I'd get some of the air bag
type booster springs that go inside the coils and try for at least 300
pounds on the tongue.  [do you hear Walt Koziarz snickering in the
background yet?]

 At 5000 pounds, you might come under the eye of the Georgia
Staatenpolizei.  You might want to do some checking before you commit
money to the ElCo.


-> 15 mph with all 4 wheels locked isn't any fun.  Since I'm going to be
-> towing this thing a LOT, I'm concerned about how well it tows.  I'd

 How it tows will depend a lot on the position of the trailer axles,
ball-to-tow-vehicle-axle distance, and some other stuff.  There's not
much you can do about any of it, but the further back the trailer axles
are, generally the easier they tow as far as steering, backing, etc.

 A 3000 pound car vs. a 5000 pound trailer isn't out of line, but it
ain't a U-Haul either.  You won't be doing any stunt driving in traffic.


-> Oh, in case anyone is wondering, Big John's Mobile BBQ is about to
-> hit the car, crafts and street show circuit.

 Cars, computers, magazines, guns, and barbecue.  What more could you
want?
      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 17:00:13 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7554
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: Got a question from you guys who are experienced at trailer towing.  I'm
: about to buy a dual axle trailer that weighs about 5000 lbs loaded.
: Assuming I geta  Class  hitch installed, will it be practical
: to tow this setup with my 79 El Camino?  The El Camino is about 
: to get a fresh small block but it doesn't have anything heavy-duty
: at the present.  I anticipate having to install a larger radiator, a tranny
: cooler and probably a larger alternator.  

Class III is what you want, plus you might consider the "load
distributing" type. It transferes the pressures to the frame, not
just the hitch.
	Will it be practical....How big are the brakes? Is the rear
axle rated for the weight? IMHO, what you need to do is just what I
went thru for my van. Most vehicles have the towing capabilities on
a plate attached to the vehicle. Look for that. If you can't find it, 
the owners manual will contain some of that info. 
-- 
****************************************************************************
Tom Stangler                QC Mngr, TRACOR Applied Sciences, Chesapeake Ops
Va Beach, VA                                  Tidewater Sports Car Club, LTD
stangle@infi.net                                            tsccnet@infi.net

----------
Posted by: emory!infi.net!stangle (Tom Stangler)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 17:02:31 1994
Subject: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7555
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad Max
film   (the black car) ?
Cheers. Floris.

----------
Posted by: emory!dxcern.cern.ch!bonf (Floris Bonthond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 17:09:23 1994
Subject: Re: Hummers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7556
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Dont know how good this info is to the poster, but there
	is a hummer dealer just south of Wilmington De. on Rt 13
	near the wilmington airport.

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 17:11:15 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7557
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I'd suggest getting a hitch installed that accomodates the use of equalizer 
bars.  I've towed some fairly heavy cars on my Bock Dragstar trailer and using
an equalizer allows me to redistribute the weight onto the front tires of the
tow vehicle where it belongs.  Some guys also use a sliding shock absorber
arrangement to take out the sawing motion, but that is usually a fix for another
problem (axles out of line, not enough camber).  My trailer tracks good and
straight so I don't bother with the shock arrangement.

Invest in a set of trailer brakes for one axle and an electronic control unit
and you're in business.

[The trailer already has electric brakes and I have a controller on the 
El Kabong so that's set.  The guy who has the trailer now tows it with
an F350 pickup without stabilizer bars so it must be fairly stable.
I was figuring a load distributing hitch for the Elky.  Thanks again,
folks for the info.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!halnet.com!vcook (Vick Cook 3068)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 17:20:03 1994
Subject: Points to HEI Conversion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7558
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	I went and bought Jim Springer's Buick ('71 Centurion, 455 4bbl.).  I
found a later-model 455 Buick at a wrecker's a ways away, and it has a HEI
on it.  What all do I have to rip off the newer car to have a complete HEI
setup?  How straightforward is the conversion on my car?

	I assume I'll need resistor wires, which means I ditch the resistor
plugs, right?  Plus the coil, and what else?

	While I'm at it, does anyone know what I can replace the thermostatic
vacuum valve with?  Mine's cracked in two and the P/N was discontinued in
1975.  :-(  (FWIW, the valve is a device that screws into the block where the
upper rad hose enters.  Based upon coolant temperature, it provides switched
vacuum for vacuum advance and whatever else needs switched vacuum).

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 18:42:46 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7559
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The closest I've ever come to your set up, was a 69 Plymouth Fury, with a 383
pulling an open car hauler loaded with a 79 Z28. About the same weight that you
are estimateing. First problem I encounterd was when I drove the car onto the
trailer and the rear bumper of the Fury hit the ground(not anticipated). Since
this was not going to be a regular tow vehicle a pair of air shocks fixed this.
 Other problems encountered were over heating. I discovered the old radiator had
MANY cores cut and soldered in its years. Replaced this, problem solved.
 As far as driving, no problems. 55-60 on the highway, no shakes or sways. Stopping
was no problem, even with 4 wheel drums.
 I trashed the car when one day(not towing) the car snapped an outer tie rod and
dropped it's drive shaft due to a universal failure.
 I now have an F250 with tow package.
 I do have one HORROR story with the Fury, but that was from my own stupidity, and
wouldn't want to make you nervous!

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
System Administrator                   |
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |

----------
Posted by: emory!resdgs1.er.usgs.gov!mfugazzo (Mark Fugazzotto)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 20:43:33 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7560
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
>  The ElCo wouldn't be suited to towing it far or fast, but for what you
> were talking about it'd be powerful enough.  I'd get some of the air bag
> type booster springs that go inside the coils and try for at least 300
 
Do these have any inherent advantage over traditional airshocks as
far as towing goes?

>  How it tows will depend a lot on the position of the trailer axles,
> ball-to-tow-vehicle-axle distance, and some other stuff.  There's not
> much you can do about any of it, but the further back the trailer axles
> are, generally the easier they tow as far as steering, backing, etc.
 
I towed a 4?00lb 60kW Cummins power generator from Detroit to Houston
in a brand new 90 Chevy fullsize van.  It turned and braked OK (thank
god for trailer brakes!), put it did not like pulling it.  The van
had a TBI 305, 700R4, and the factory towing packages.  With 5,000miles
on the odometer, the trans was fried.  

>  Cars, computers, magazines, guns, and barbecue.  What more could you
> want?

Beer?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 20:53:53 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7561
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi all.  Ok, this brings up a question I've been pondering too:  I was looking
at trucks to buy to tow a car trailer, total weight of roughly 6000 lbs or
so fully loaded (car, trailer, tools, tires, etc.)  I was considering either
an older 4wd Suburban (doubles as my winter ride :) ) or one of the Ford
Crew Cab dually pickups (price is dependant here.)  I'd be buying one used,
so I'd be looking for a big block in either (454 or 460.)  Either that, or
I have a somewhat built small-block kicking around I could torque out and use
in the Suburban if I can only find a small-block one (or I also have a 396
that I could drop in, but it needs a little more work - plus I'd have to deal
with brackets and this and that and etc. . . )

The questions I was wondering is will the Suburban be ok to tow with?  I
figured with the extra weight and wheelbase it would be cool, and if I could
find a 3/4 ton one (they did make them, right?) with 8-lugs and the huge
brakes that would be even better...  Then again, I prefer Ford trucks, but
would like to have the whole interior accessable from the front (toss in the
kids & go vs. digging in the back of the pickup, even with a cap. :) )  Plus,
cost is a major issue, and the Suburban is definitely the least inexpensive
way to go...

>From what I can recall/tell, Ford never made a Suburban type vehicle, other
than a capped Crew Cab, but that ain't quite the same.

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 21:04:50 1994
Subject: custom seat belts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7562
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I looked in the vendor list and couldn't find anything; I want to get
some seat belts made up for my Triumph. I know exactly what I want
(non-retracting 2" three point belts with standard aircraft buckle,
clip ends for the floor and bolt to the wheelarch). I can find almost
that on the market, except that it's all bolt in; I can find a place
that will replace two of the bolt ends with clip ends, if I supply the
right ones, but it doubles the cost of the belts.

I know there are places that do rewebbing, and *someone* has got to
make these things and stock hardware. But who? 

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 14 21:15:08 1994
Subject: Re: Engine builder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7563
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> -> an IMCA Modified this year on the dirt (3/8 mile track), in this
> -> class they have a $500.00 ($300.00 U.S) claimer rule on all
> -> motors.
>  Holy Christ.  That won't even pay for a between-seasons freshen-up,
> much less a whole motor.  I guess your next decision will have to be
> "how much can I afford to lose if I get claimed" vs. "how bad do I want
> to be competitive."  I don't know what your competition is like, but
> you're going to be hard pressed to put much together below $2500.

Or do what another competitor has been known to do... put in a "basically
stock" engine, run a race, and claim the winning engine. 

-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 13:15:54 1994
Subject: Re: Points to HEI Conversion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7564
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>	I went and bought Jim Springer's Buick ('71 Centurion, 455 4bbl.).  I
>found a later-model 455 Buick at a wrecker's a ways away, and it has a HEI
>on it.  What all do I have to rip off the newer car to have a complete HEI
>setup?  How straightforward is the conversion on my car?

>	I assume I'll need resistor wires, which means I ditch the resistor
>plugs, right?  Plus the coil, and what else?

>Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)

Being a Mopar man I am no definate authority, 
But if its anything like a Chebby, all you need (I think) is the
distributer and the plug wires that come with it. The coil is built
in, and all ity needs is a power wire to operate.
Wait for confirmation before you take my word howevr.
Matt A.

----------
Posted by: Matthew Charles Acheson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 13:21:14 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7565
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:


>Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad Max
>film   (the black car) ?
>Cheers. Floris.

>----------
>Posted by: emory!dxcern.cern.ch!bonf (Floris Bonthond)

Some kind on an Australian Ford.
I think it was their Falcon, but it looks like a 7/8 scale 70's
Torino.

Matt A.

----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 13:28:47 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7566
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
your site.  Example:  If you are at foo@bar.edu,

Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
try to extract a path from your mail header.  If it does not  work, this
slightly less dumb mail manager (me) will not intervene.  Include a path.

To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com with the 
following subject line:

Subject: drop foo@bar.edu

The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
subscribe with.

To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dixie.com.  Please
include  a meaningful subject line.  Inquiries, and other administrivia should 
be addressed to jgd@dixie.com.   

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
group at your site.  In order to ensure your post is properly returned
to the list, be sure to mark alt.hotrod moderated and point the mailfile
back to hotrod@dixie.com.

If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
to the list.  The list membership is approaching 300 which makes things,
ummm, interesting here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  See below for the archive site.

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of bounced
messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I must 
remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a 
short time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a
day of cushion.  The volume of messages on the list is seldom less
than 10 messages a day even on the weekend so if you don't get 
messages for a day, you know you're off the list.  Simply send a new
subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

ece.rutgers.edu archives the hotrod and the z-car mailing lists.  This is
available only via anonymous ftp.  Jialin Li is the contact.  
jialin@ece.rutgers.edu

Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
the university does not allow incoming anonymous ftp so new GIFs must
be mailed to Milam, met@sunset.cse.nau.edu.  

These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I maintain a mail file server on dixie.com.  This is primarily to support
articles in my magazine, Performance Engineering (TM) but it is also
useful to hotrod list members. Software for articles and other car-related
files are available.  To get a directory, mail to 

	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

address foo@bar.com                     <<-- optional.  Where you want it sent
Index

to get a file,

send file_name

If you get empty messages in return, that means the very sorry server
software I'm now using has crashed.  Send another request.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 15:41:16 1994
Subject: mini fans ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7567
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi,

Any Mini fans out there? Please start posting..

--

***************************** ai ga areba ii **********************************

			arif@mars.elcom.nitech.ac.jp

----------
Posted by: emory!miranda.elcom.nitech.ac.jp!arif (Yang Arif)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 15:49:29 1994
Subject: Chevy "Double Hump" Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7568
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Hi All,
	I have just completed a hot engine rebuild for my HUGE
'72 Suburban 4x4. I have "Double Hump" heads as designated by
the camel's back icon embossed on the sides. The problem is, I 
don't know the real significance of this nomenclature. Could 
one of you -way cool- chevy gurus fill me in on the details?
			
			Thanks, Jon


----------
Posted by: emory!Belle.wes.army.mil!warwick (Jon Warwick)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 15:59:49 1994
Subject: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7569
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad
-> Max film   (the black car) ?

 It was a '70s Australian Falcon, 351C, automatic, fake blower.
                                                                                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:10:40 1994
Subject: Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7570
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> > type booster springs that go inside the coils and try for at least
-> 300

> Do these have any inherent advantage over traditional airshocks as
> far as towing goes?

 Yes.  Air shocks are dependent on the original shock mounting points,
which are quite often just holes in the sheet metal.  Try to carry much
load, and they'll just rip the bushings right out of the body.

 The air bags are the cat's meow if you have a car that will take them.
They're progressive, quiet, light, relatively cheap ($60-ish), and make
use of the spring mounts to transfer load.
     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:20:24 1994
Subject: Re: Engine builder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7571
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Or do what another competitor has been known to do... put in a
-> "basically stock" engine, run a race, and claim the winning engine.

 That seems to be the way it goes everywhere.  I can't figure a scenario
where a claimer rule is worthwhile, but track owners appear to like
them.
                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:27:57 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7572
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

It's definetely an Australian car. I read about it somewhere on
the net some time ago. A vague memory says 'Ford Falcon XC'?????
Really not sure about this. 

The engine was supposed to be a Ford big block Police Interceptor.

I'm sure some of our friends down under can help us out. Maybe a
posting to rec.autos.misc?

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:33:14 1994
Subject: Re: Points to HEI Conversion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7573
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article yjg405p@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>	I went and bought Jim Springer's Buick ('71 Centurion, 455 4bbl.).  I
>found a later-model 455 Buick at a wrecker's a ways away, and it has a HEI
>on it.  What all do I have to rip off the newer car to have a complete HEI
>setup?  How straightforward is the conversion on my car?
>
>	I assume I'll need resistor wires, which means I ditch the resistor
>plugs, right?  Plus the coil, and what else?
>
>	While I'm at it, does anyone know what I can replace the thermostatic
>vacuum valve with?  Mine's cracked in two and the P/N was discontinued in
>1975.  :-(  (FWIW, the valve is a device that screws into the block where the
>upper rad hose enters.  Based upon coolant temperature, it provides switched
>vacuum for vacuum advance and whatever else needs switched vacuum).

As you found the HEI on a 455 I assume it's the old (non computer) version.
In that case, conversion is straight forward. You can run resistor wires
and plugs. HEI has enough juice to run almost anything you throw at it.
Even 0.060 gapped plugs are OK. However:

Make sure you feed the HEI a *full 12V*. Point type distributors are fed
with 9V. This is done by means of a resistor or a resistor wire. In either
case the resistor has to be bypassed. 

Regarding the thermo switch. Check if it's required for emission compliance.
If not, ditch it. These devices rarely affect driveablity. I would start
by connecting the HEI vacuum advance to a ported vacuum source, and then
trying a full manifold vacuum. When I switched from ported to full vacuum,
my rough idle (hp bumpstick) smoothed out.

I don't know what kind of motor you're building (ie torque monster, stock,
high rpm etc), but regardless what kind you ought to modify the centrifugal
advance. There are special kits available that are cheap ($10) and can make
big differences in throttle response and low-end torque. 

If you plan to rev it past 5500rpm you might consider an aftermarket coil
and module like the MSD6A. But with a 455, I guess you might not rev it all
that much.

The HEI is a great distributor. With a modified centrifugal advance it's hard 
to beat under 5500rpm.

Markus
   

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:39:17 1994
Subject: towing with ElCamino...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7574
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-------
Hmmmmm.... I dunno, it should be do-able, a slong as the vehicle is/can be
equipped with the items found in its model-year "heavy" trailer-towing
package (or whatever it might have been labelled).  Upgraded engine
cooling, oil cooler, upgraded transmission cooler (maybe a freshened
TH350?), most assuredly a weight-distributing hitch and perhaps even some
extra-load P-sized fresh tires...  Gotta remember that the ElCamino is
really a mid-size car and through much of the 1970's mid-sizes were able to 
be equipped for towing 5000lbs...  Of course, a nice Cummins-powered Dodge, 
with a little pump tuning would be more elegant (the new one, ClubCab,
tweaked pump -- 230hp, 600+lb-ft, circa 20mpg... numbers no gas-burner will 
ever achieve from 359cid for 500000miles).

Walt "Death before gasoline" K.
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!halibut.nosc.mil!koziarz (Walter A. Koziarz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:44:46 1994
Subject: Re:  Points to HEI Conversion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7575
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 The 455 and 350 Buick motors can interchange distributors; 350s continued
in production for a few years after the 455 stopped. It's supposed to be a
straight swap. Usual bit about finding a non-resistor power feed.

 For the TVS you may need to pick a Chevy part and, if you're unlucky
about hole size/thread, get one with a smaller butt and use a bushing
adaptor dealie. 

 I bet there's a V-6 Buick part type that matches the hole however. 
There seems to be a pretty good degree of design continuity with respect
to layout/format/default sizes between the V-8 and the V-6, at least
around the crossover years. Try a part for a '77 231.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 16:50:07 1994
Subject:       Re: Towing question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7576
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I towed a 4?00lb 60kW Cummins power generator from Detroit to Houston
> in a brand new 90 Chevy fullsize van.  It turned and braked OK (thank
> god for trailer brakes!), put it did not like pulling it.  The van
> had a TBI 305, 700R4, and the factory towing packages.  With 5,000miles
> on the odometer, the trans was fried.  
> 

I tow a grain wagon behind a Jimmy with the worlds doggiest 305.  Its
slow to begin with, but with 20,000 lbs behind it sets no speed 
records.  On some occasions I have pulled doubles.  The tranny is an
1985 700R4.  These are known to have problems, but so far the trannys
been OK (one bad pinion gear & U joint).  The truck is also used for
towing a 3000 lb camper.  You can use the El Camino to pull it, but
don't get in a hurry, espescially when when you are first pulling
away from a stop sign.  Besides the distributing hitch, I would want
to get electric brakes (or mechanical) for the trailer.  The bigger
generator is not necessary.

 Mark W. Blunier     who | grep sleeping
blunier@cei.com     who | grep awake
(217) 351-3117      who | grep bad || good
fax (217) 351-8576  for (goodness_sake) {be_good;}

----------
Posted by: "Mark Blunier" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 18:48:00 1994
Subject: Re: Points to HEI Conversion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7577
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
> 
> >	I went and bought Jim Springer's Buick ('71 Centurion, 455 4bbl.).  I
> >found a later-model 455 Buick at a wrecker's a ways away, and it has a HEI
> >on it.  What all do I have to rip off the newer car to have a complete HEI
> >setup?  How straightforward is the conversion on my car?
 
The only essential piece is the distributorand all of its internals
including the HEI module.  You need a cap (and coil, its in the cap),
rotor, and HEI style wires too, but with the exception of the coil, you
should probably buy the other parts new.  You may want to buy a recurve
kit for it, too.

> >	I assume I'll need resistor wires, which means I ditch the resistor
> >plugs, right?  Plus the coil, and what else?

No, you still run resistor plugs.  For wires, you want wires that say
"Magnetic Supression" or "Spiral Core"...  not a specific HEI requirement,
just what you should be running with any ignition except maybe a magneto.
You might want to cut the connector for the HEI off the junker's
wiring harness, just for that kewl OEM look when you wire it up.
You'll need to run a new power line for the HEI.  The HEI only has one
wire that has to be hooked up, and it corresponds with the BATT terminal
on the cap.  This needs to run to a good +12V source that is on only
when the ignition switch is in the start or run position.  You can't use
original + coil lead because its a resistor wire.


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 18:58:43 1994
Subject: Re: Points to HEI Conversion 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7578
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 	I went and bought Jim Springer's Buick ('71 Centurion, 455 4bbl.).  I
> found a later-model 455 Buick at a wrecker's a ways away, and it has a HEI
> on it.  What all do I have to rip off the newer car to have a complete HEI
> setup?  How straightforward is the conversion on my car?
> 
> 	I assume I'll need resistor wires, which means I ditch the resistor
> plugs, right?  Plus the coil, and what else?

	You'll get a set of HEI wires...the coil is built into the
HEI dist. cap, you may already have a coil!

	I did this to my '68 Bonneville...it is a fairly straightforward
conversion.  I did mine in stages just to be sure I could have a car
to drive the next day!

	I'm assuming you already know about swapping dists., and how
to make sure you get the same timing and firing order.  I first 
swapped just the dists., splicing in the coil wire
and hooking up the old plug wires as a sanity check (car should
run!).   Plugs were a bit of a problem; all the later HEI plugs were
for the post '73 smog heads.  Eventually found the right ones (the
ones used on the CD electronic igniton of the late 60's) and 
gapped them out a bit (.035-.040 I think).  HEI wires completed the
first phase of the swap.

	The second phase was getting correct voltage to the coil.  The
old points ignition ran the coil at about 9 volts to prolong point wear...
a resistor wire was used to drop the voltage during normal (I1) operation.
During cranking, the "secondary ignition" (I2) wire bypassed this resistor
wire to allow 12 volts to the coil for better starting.  Look at the
wiring diagram for your car...there should be an "engine cranking" and
"engine running" diagrams.   This should help you with the colors and
location of the wires you are trying to get to.   

	On my car, the resistor wire went from the I1 lead (which also splits
off to other ignition-only accessories: gauges, etc.) to the firewall
connector block.  The I2 lead went to the same post on this block.  I simply
spliced the I1 and I2 leads together with a wire that had my "ignition kill 
switch" in-lined, snipped the resistor wire and was done.

	Note that my car has an in-dash ignition switch, so all these 
wires were fairly easy to get to just by removing the dashpad.  Your
milage and wiring accessibility (with your column mounted switch) may vary.

	This was the singlemost satisfying enhancement I've ever done...
I put 40,000 miles on the car since the conversion without changing
points or plugs!  Cold weather starting (even 20 below!) is like a
modern car, the thing fires right up!  Actually better than a modern
car, I don't know why the designers of fuel injection software can't
figgure out how to handle 20 below starting without filling the
crankcase with gasoline...


--Ken

Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Lachman Technology, Inc., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(708) 505-9555 x341			much experience			 |
dye@lachman.com							archy	 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------+

----------
Posted by: "Ken R. Dye" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 19:08:36 1994
Subject: Need recommendation for engine rebuilder in central N.J.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7579
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I want to have the engine of my '63 Tbird rebuilt and I'm looking for advice
on a good shop in the central N.J. area (I live in Monmouth county). I do not
plan on pulling the engine myself due to space and tool limitations. Will
shops pull the engine or must you deliver it out of the car? 

Thanks

Jim Feeney

----------
Posted by: emory!globe1.att.com!jrf
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 19:13:43 1994
Subject: Re: Engine builder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7580
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> -> Or do what another competitor has been known to do... put in a
> -> "basically stock" engine, run a race, and claim the winning engine.
>  That seems to be the way it goes everywhere.  I can't figure a scenario
> where a claimer rule is worthwhile, but track owners appear to like
> them.

A bit of what I said above (the -> quotes) was "tongue in cheek", but
if there is a "factory" effort (or any team with more money than sense)
that is spending way too much on their engines, and dusting everyone else,
THAT's the engine to claim!


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 19:18:49 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy "Double Hump" Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7581
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I think to get any help with these heads, you'll need to provide
the casting numbers.  This number can be found by pulling the
valve cover, it's a six digit number (I think).  Without that, 
it's anybody's guess as to what you actually have.

-kevin

> 
> 
> 	Hi All,
> 	I have just completed a hot engine rebuild for my HUGE
> '72 Suburban 4x4. I have "Double Hump" heads as designated by
> the camel's back icon embossed on the sides. The problem is, I 
> don't know the real significance of this nomenclature. Could 
> one of you -way cool- chevy gurus fill me in on the details?
> 			
> 			Thanks, Jon
> 
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!Belle.wes.army.mil!warwick (Jon Warwick)
>  
> 
> 

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 19:23:53 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7582
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Feb 14, 16:06, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
>
> Dan Burk writes:
> I think I'd rather have flow numbers for the intake and exhaust at
> each .1 of valve lift.  Dyno numbers can really lie.
>

Quite the contrary, flow numbers _can_ say very little about real
performance.  Steady-state flow numbers may or may not be significant
in a real-engine environment where everything is pulsing.

This was gone into in considereable detail at one of the Superflow
conferences.  Summary: Flow numbers are crap, depend on the dyno.

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 22:40:14 1994
Subject: SB Chevy street motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7583
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello,
I just recieved a Chevy as a gift from a relative. Being a Mopar Man
I'm kind of stuck on how to build a budget street motor something in
the low 14s high 13s range with tremendous reliability and cheapness.
(Don't want much do I?)

Here's what I have for the foundation:
-69 327 block standard
-will probobly be bored .030 over and fitted with cast pistons
-69 327 crank standard
-rods to fit
-late model 305 heads
-70s 194 truck heads (can't remember casting # but they are open
 chamber
-cheapo headers 
-I can port the heads moderatly myself
-I can get a old Edelbrock Torquer for free

Heres the questions:

The crank needs to be turned, should I replace it with a 350 crank?
Will it fit?
Are these rods OK to use with a 350 crank?
Which heads should I use?
   Would like to run on pump gas.
Cam and intake recommendations, considering that I want to keep the
stock conveter?
I would like a very docile combo at idle.
Sorry for the length, I guess I got carried away.
Matt A.
acheson@sfu.ca
-- 
Matt Acheson (acheson@sfu.ca)
Battling the forces of good and evil at SFU

----------
Posted by: emory!sfu.ca!acheson (Matthew Charles Acheson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 22:51:11 1994
Subject: Parts books for sale (microfiche)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7584
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Well, the charter says that tasteful for-sale ads are allowed, so here's a
tasteful (IMHO) distillation of my ad:

I've got a bunch of microfiche parts books for sale.  I find parts books very
handy for many reasons, including crossing over parts from other applications
and making sure the parts counter folks give me the right stuff.  If you've
got a microfiche viewer available, these are very economical.  (I'm asking in
the $5 range for each set, depending on coverage etc., with quantity discounts
negotiable.  In most cases the asking price is less than half of dealer cost.)

I've got lots of Chrysler fiches (import, domestic, truck, Jeep, some back to
the mid 70's through current), Pontiac Grand Prix and J2000/Sunbird, (don't
laugh:) Suzuki Samurai, Sidekick, and Swift, and (really don't laugh:) Daihatsu
Charade.  There's plenty of Mitsubishi and Geo twins that will have lots in
common with some of these fiches.

If interested, email me with your application and I'll let you know what's
available.

David Wright (dwrig@tog-1s.hac.com, dwrig@tog-1g.hac.com)

----------
Posted by: David Wright 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 22:56:23 1994
Subject: Chevy "Double Hump" Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7585
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> '72 Suburban 4x4. I have "Double Hump" heads as designated by
-> the camel's back icon embossed on the sides. The problem is, I
-> don't know the real significance of this nomenclature.

 It's a foundry ID.  Heads with the mark often, but not always, have
small chambers and large port cores.  They're usually fitted with large
valves.  There are also junk heads with that mark, but most people can't
tell the difference.
            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 23:01:48 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7586
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> The engine was supposed to be a Ford big block Police Interceptor.

 351 Cleveland.  Ford/Australia never got a big block.
                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 15 23:07:15 1994
Subject: 460 Ford
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7587
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm going to start doing something with the 460 in my '77 Ford Police
Interceptor that's been sitting for months.  It runs like hell, but I think
it might be mostly carburetor problems.  I'm going to do a compression check
on it first.  If I can get it running and smog legal without too much trouble
I may use it as a family hauler this summer.  If not, I'll yank it out and
either fix it up for my next hot rod project or sell it.

Any Ford-experienced people out there that have any tips or pointers for
things to be on the lookout for on the big 460s?  Are there any weak links in
the 460?  Oiling-caused problems?  Does the top end wear out before the
bottom end, or vise-versa?

After an overnight charging of the battery, I got it fired up.  It makes all
kinds of splattery, rumbly noise and obviously runs way too rich.  I think
the choke may be stuck on permanently.  After I got it warmed up, I punched
it about a dozen times and blew out a heap of oily smelling light grey smoke.
I think I also blew a huge section of one of the mufflers out.  After that,
it ran pretty well, but still too rich of a mixture.

If the compression test checks out, and I don't hear any knocks, is there
anything in particular I should check for?

Anyone ever stuck a 460 into a T-bucket or something super light?  Would a
460 just twist a T frame up?  Or would the extra weight bust the axle?
I'd like to make something like one of those super old model Ts with a
completely flat hardtop and a stretched frame.  They look cool, man.
I'd also like to make a pro-street style '53 Studebaker Commander.  A 460 in
one of those would be about the right size  :)

I enjoy hearing everyone's comments.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 04:37:17 1994
Subject: Re: Who makes the 2.5L Cutlass fur
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7588
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>HELP !!!
>  I have a 1983 Olds Cutlass Ciera that has an ailing engine. It is a 
>  2500 CC EFI four and it sounds like a sticking lifter or valve.
>
>  If noone knows maybe someone knows a way to find out - short of looking
>  thru all of the repair manuals for Japanese autos.
>
>Posted by: emory!sr.hp.com!bault (Bob Ault)


Sounds like the Pontiac Iron Duke, it was used in alot of small cars around
that time.

Troy

----------
Posted by: EILAND 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 04:42:40 1994
Subject: For Frank and Steve
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7589
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Frank

Yeah baby you went for it. The 345hp 350 crate motor. is the only way to go!
I'm jealous. For Interior try the Pomona swap meet at L.A. Fairgrounds there
is always a vendor or two that supplies 60' Chevy's. Or try Sonny's Upolstery
in Stanton, Ca. He has been in business for over 25yrs and is well respected.

Steve

There is no problem with the 1/2 or 3/4 ton Suburban pulling your needs. Gm
has made the 3/4 ton versio as long as the 1/2 ton. You should have no problem
with finding a 4 wheel drive version. They make the Ultimate Urban Assault
vehicle around. This coming from a Ford man. I've seen probably 3 Ford
Roll-a-along 4 wheel drive 4 door Broncos when I lived in So. Cal.
Very cool 460 3/4 ton with all the goodies. 30k-40 price range. Anyway, the
big Chevy or GMC is really better for pulling. Because it put less drag
on the trailer then does a truck without a shell.

See ya
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 04:47:14 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7590
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <=hh4r!h@dixie.com> you write:
>It's definetely an Australian car. I read about it somewhere on
>the net some time ago. A vague memory says 'Ford Falcon XC'?????
>Really not sure about this. 
>
>The engine was supposed to be a Ford big block Police Interceptor.
>
>I'm sure some of our friends down under can help us out. Maybe a
>posting to rec.autos.misc?
>
>Markus 
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)


Okay, I'll try it there. Thanks for your answers so far.
Floris.

----------
Posted by: emory!dxcern.cern.ch!bonf (Floris Bonthond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 04:52:06 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7591
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>
>-> Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad
>-> Max film   (the black car) ?
>
> It was a '70s Australian Falcon, 351C, automatic, fake blower.
>                                                                                                                         
  The blower was a Weiand (sp?) 6-71 with a satin glove? injector.
  The blower pulley was engaged by a pulling a cable from inside the 
  car!!  Ha ha, I hope that cable also activated some type of fuel
  system enrichener!!
    Why do you think that the blower was fake???


		Chris Demke
		chris@sundude.jpl.nasa.gov

----------
Posted by: emory!sundude.JPL.NASA.GOV!chris (Chris Demke)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 18:21:32 1994
Subject: Re: Engine builder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7592
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <7gh43qg@dixie.com> emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams) wrote:

:>-> Or do what another competitor has been known to do... put in a
:>-> "basically stock" engine, run a race, and claim the winning engine.

:> That seems to be the way it goes everywhere.  I can't figure a scenario
:>where a claimer rule is worthwhile, but track owners appear to like
:>them.

	I think the motivation is to keep the boys who have the big money from
running away with the show.  They won't outlaw engine mods per se, but they
do make it financially risky to build a motor that stands head and shoulders
above the rest.  Consider it a financial incentive for close racing so the
poor boys can compete.

	What's left is where to draw the line.  $500 is a bit low, I'd agree.

	The other way to do it is to explicitly state what mods are permitted
and what mods are disallowed, and then have teardown rules, with the loser
of the teardown challenge paying for the teardown and reassembly.  I prefer
this method to claiming rules, personally.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

[As I recall, ARCA's claimer rule says only someone in the top 3 (5?)
can claim the winning motor so you don't have to worry about a back-
marker taking your motor.  I personally like claimer rules like this one.
It removes all the incentive to do something expensive and trick that
won't show up during a tear-down.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 18:32:06 1994
Subject: Re:  SB Chevy street motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7593
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-> Hello,
-> I just recieved a Chevy as a gift from a relative. Being a Mopar Man
-> I'm kind of stuck on how to build a budget street motor something in
-> the low 14s high 13s range with tremendous reliability and cheapness.
-> (Don't want much do I?)
-> 
Matt,
There may be personal/family reasons why you wouldn't want to do this,
but, I'll ask the obvious question anyway, "Why not sell/trade the Chevy
for a Mopar?"
George Kulp

----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 18:41:42 1994
Subject: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7594
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



   Last fall I started having problems with the 429CJ in my '70 Torino.
I didn't do much to it over the winter because I don't have a heated
area to work in.  But spring is on the way now and I want to get this
thing back on the road!
   I'm relatively sure that most of the problems are carbeurator related.
I have been through the carb twice, the second time with a friend who
knows QuadraJets fairly well.
   I would really appreciate it if someone could help me out.  Here 
is a list of symptoms:

   * VERY hard to start.  Usually have to prime it.
   * Sometimes backfires when starting.  Carb fires are common.
   * Rough idle...feels like it misses on one cylinder.
   * Seems to be running rich.  (black smoke)
   * Mixture screws have NO effect.  I can both of them all the in.
   * Disconnecting PCV hose causes engine RPM to go up.  Backing
     up the timing and slowing down the idle lets things run 
     fairly well.  The rich condition seems to go away when I do this.
     I suppose it's getting it's air through the PCV inlet and gets a
     reasonably good air/fuel mixture this way.

   At one time I thought part of this could be ignition related, but
considering the things I've tried, I doubt it at this point.  Things 
I have done since the problem started:

   * Replaced:  plugs, wires, points, condenser, rotor, cap.
   * Swapped distributor using new points, condenser, rotor and cap mentioned
     above.
   * Rebuilt carb.  Sealed bottom of fuel well plugs with epoxy.  Checked
     top and base for warpage and incomplete sealing.
   * Found out I had the incorrect gasket under the carb and replaced it 
     with the correct one.  Also tried a new version of the incorrect one.
   * Replaced PCV valve, hose, and grommet (in the valve cover).
   * Tried a wide range of timing settings.

   When I mentioned the backfiring, someone suggested checking for leaks
around the intake, or a crack in the intake.  I tried spraying the intake
with carb cleaner and watching for changes in the idle.  I didn't find
anything.  Is there a better way of checking?

   Right now it seems to me like I have an air passage blocked, but I 
haven't been able to find it.  Is there anyone out there who has seen
problems similar to this?

   Other than the problems I've mentioned so far, the only other thing
I know of that is wrong with the engine is a lifter rattle.  I'm assuming
that it's just not building up.  The rattle was there before the other
problems started and never seemed to affect the power.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Larry


----------
Posted by: Larry Estep 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 18:52:11 1994
Subject: Re: 460 Ford
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7595
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Feb 15, 10:18pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: 460 Ford
> 
> Anyone ever stuck a 460 into a T-bucket or something super light?  Would a
> 460 just twist a T frame up?  Or would the extra weight bust the axle?
> I'd like to make something like one of those super old model Ts with a
> completely flat hardtop and a stretched frame.  They look cool, man.
> I'd also like to make a pro-street style '53 Studebaker Commander.  A 460 in
> one of those would be about the right size  :)
> 
Tom, I pulled a 71 Ford 429 out of a TBird this fall to save for my next 
project. There really is a lot of good stuff to go back into your 460 should 
you decide to pump it up abit. Ford Motorsport has everything money can
buy for your motor and over the last year SUPER FORD  has runn an excellent
series on the "385: series 460 reviewing the new Alum heads and all the current 
intake manifolds on the market.  I picked my 71 because it was the last year 
of the stock high compression, mine is 11:00 to 1 compression ratio, so it 
offers a good starting point for modification. With Alum heads and Alum
intake manifold, the 460 would be a little more friendly sitting in a 
T-Bucket. I run a small block Ford in mine, but have seen plenty with big
block Chevy's in them.++0 Anything with a Ford in it is unusal in any
case,. The only big problem a person will face is the fact that California 
is a very unfriendly place for building T-buckets without some kind of
preplanning for Titling reasons. Your Studde project sounds bitchin.
You wouldn't need to be concerned about the smog or titling Foes either here
in California. My 429 is waiting for an all steel 41 Willys pickup. Go for
it.Cheers. Mike



-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 19:02:57 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7596
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 

> >-> Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad
> >-> Max film   (the black car) ?
> >
> > It was a '70s Australian Falcon, 351C, automatic, fake blower.
> >                                                                                                                         
>   The blower was a Weiand (sp?) 6-71 with a satin glove? injector.
>   The blower pulley was engaged by a pulling a cable from inside the 
>   car!!  Ha ha, I hope that cable also activated some type of fuel
>   system enrichener!!> 

The car was a XC Hard top Falcon around 1975, the car was not a fake and
it has a big block in it, There is a guy somwhere on the east coast of
OZ who actually found the original car used in the movie and rebuilt it 
fully, I`ll have to find the magazine article to get the full specs.

I`m not sure but i think the lever operated blower was just bullshit for
the movie..!
I`ll post all the spec`s somtime pretty soon.
Justin...

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 19:07:55 1994
Subject: Re: custom seat belts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7597
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: I looked in the vendor list and couldn't find anything; I want to get
: some seat belts made up for my Triumph. I know exactly what I want
: (non-retracting 2" three point belts with standard aircraft buckle,
: clip ends for the floor and bolt to the wheelarch). I can find almost
: that on the market, except that it's all bolt in; I can find a place
: that will replace two of the bolt ends with clip ends, if I supply the
: right ones, but it doubles the cost of the belts.

: I know there are places that do rewebbing, and *someone* has got to
: make these things and stock hardware. But who? 

my husband has ordered seat belts for people, for more info, etc
call hime (Wayne) at 408-722-1934

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 19:11:49 1994
Subject: Re: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7598
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:


>-> _4-Cycle_Karting_Technology_ or "the other one" which I can't
>-> remember. I'll bring'em in monday.

> Thanks for the info!  I take it you've run karts before?
>----------
>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

Well, I'll have to say that I've never been in an actual race (not yet :)
I hung around the tracks here in N. CA a lot last summer while I was
looking for a kart.  I finally bought one last october (after the season
ended).  I've run on the tracks, this winter, but haven't been in a race.

Now, the two books that I have are:

_4 Cycle Karting Technology_, Bill Starrett; @1989, Steve Smith Autosports
	Publications, P.O. box 11631, Santa Ana, CA 92711; ISBN #0-936834-63-3

_The Beginner's Complete Karting Guide_, Jean Louis Genibrel; @1984, Rev.
	August 1987, ibid. ISBN # 0-936834-40-4

Both are pretty worthless.  Just for fun I'm going to open up to a random
page and read the first caption for a photo I see.  First _4 Cycle..._ :

"These crates can be built to carry spare motors" - Picture of motor in crate.

Wow! Now that's what inquireing minds want to know :-)
I was actually able to find a formula in this book. The author states,
"The following formula can be used to calculate the optimum [header]
pipe length for a given RMP: CI*1900/D^2*RPM." But gives no idication as
to what these factors refer.  Do you see an "L" in there anywhere? The
author's answer was to paint a longer than needed header with cheap 
spray-paint and cut the header off where the paint blistered off :^o

Now _The Beginners's..._ :

"And outside sight on the fuel tank is a good idea. Wash tank out
thoroughly before doing any welding. Gas tanks will go up like a bomb if
they have any fumes left in them while being welded" - Picture of tank.

Well, that's got to be one of the worst in the book.  This book does
mention ackerman in its "Handling" section that basically states what it
is, and that "This [Ackerman compensation] geometry is built into your
kart front end, cars, buses, trucks, even snowmobiles."  And goes on to
say, "Do not listen to those guys who tell you to crank in more Ackerman
for the dirt." And that's it.

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

         Ban low-performance drivers, not high-performance cars.

----------
Posted by: David Johnson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 19:18:13 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7599
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> This was gone into in considereable detail at one of the Superflow
-> conferences.  Summary: Flow numbers are crap, depend on the dyno.

 The airflow numbers are something you can use to design a motor and
predict performance; dyno numbers presuppose a dyno, a device which does
not yet grace my humble shop.  Also, from watching John recalibrate an
older Superflow last month, I'm even less inclined to trust dyno figures
than I was before.
                                                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 16 19:22:52 1994
Subject: Horsepower measurements
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7600
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Speaking of dynos, here is the coast-down method of measuring HP.
You really only need a stopwatch and an accurate speedometer but I use a
radar gun for more precision in the speed measurement.

To measure the power available at a given speed, you first time how long
it takes to accelerate from a bit below to a bit above that speed.
Then you time how long it takes to decelerate with the car in neutral
through the same speed interval.  The first measurement measures
how much power over and above drag and rolling resistance is available
for acceleration.  The second measurement measures the total of all
parasitic losses including drag, rolling resistance, transmission
losses, etc.  The sum of these two is the power the engine is making.

If you're interested in the peak power of the engine, select the range 
of speeds to just bracket the RPM where the peak power is made.
It may take some experimenting to find out where this is.  Needless
to say, unless you compensate for it, this test must be done
on flat, level, dry road.  A run in either direction over the same
course and the results averages is the most accurate.

The first thing to do is to weigh the car.  Many trukstops have 
scales and will weigh your car free with a fill-up.  I use a full
tank of gas because that is easy to replicate.  Include your weight,
of course.

The procedure is simply.  Get your stopwatch ready.  Accelerate 
at wide open throttle and when you hit your lower speed, start the 
stopwatch.  When you hit the upper speed, stop it.  Write down the
starting speed, ending speed and time.  Accelerate a bit more, reset the
stopwatch, put the car in neutral, coast down.  When you hit the upper
speed, start the watch and stop it when you hit the lower speed.
Record the time.

Here are the computations.

Sal 	= Speed, accelerating, lower
Sau     = Speed, accel, upper
Ta      = Time, accel

Sdl		= Speed, decel, lower
Sdu     = Speed, decel, upper
Td		= time, decel

W 		= weight of the car

net_ft-lbsA	=	net ft-lbs during acceleration
net_ft-lbsD	=	net ft-lbs during deceleration

HPa		= HP during acceleration
HPd		= HP during deceleration

Constants:

0.0336 	= Magic number to unify the measurement units.
550		= ft-lbs per second in one HP

Step 1:  Compute net ft-lbs, accelerating

(0.0336 * W * (Sau)^2 ) - (0.0336 * W * (Sal)^2)  = net_ft-lbsA

Step 2: Compute net ft-lbs decelerating.

(0.0336 * W * (Sdu)^2 ) - (0.0336 * W * (Sdl)^2)  = net_ft-lbsD 

Step 3: Compute HP, accelerating

HPa		= (net_ft-lbsA / Ta) / 550

Step 4: Compute HP, decelerating

HPd		= (net_ft-lbsD / Td) / 550

Step 5: Compute total HP

HPd + HPa = total HP.

Example:

A car weighing 3200 lbs.  It accelerates from 60 mph to 80 mph in 5
seconds and decelerates through the same range in 20 seconds.
That works out to 68.4 hp accelerating and 17.1 hp decelerating,
85.5 hp total.  

This is a pretty sensitive test and can show, for example, the
added rolling resistance from driving in the rain with water standing
on the pavement.  Just remember that drag is a cube-law functio of
speed so don't try to "average" over too wide a speed range.

It's that easy.  I have this implemented in an HP95LX Lotus Spreadsheet.
I've also implemented this as an HP41 program that takes advantage
of the clock module.  I can make it available if anyone is interested.

The spreadsheet follows:
-------------------------------
begin 664 hp.wk1
M```"``8$!@`(```````"`!,`E@`2```````3``$`!``3``(`!``3`"\``0`!
M`@`!`/\#``$```0``0``!0`!`/\'`"```0`3`'$`"0`#``L````)````````
M````!``$`"0````(``,````/9``@````````````````````````````````
M````````````&``9``#__P``__\``/__``#__P``__\``/__```9`!D`__\`
M`/__``#__P``__\``/__``#__P```!H`"`#__P``__\``#```0``'``(`/__
M``#__P``&P`(`/__``#__P``'0`)`/__``#__P```",`"0#__P``__\```!G
M`!D`__\``/__``#__P``__\``/__``#__P```&D`*`#__P``__\``/__``#_
M_P``__\``/__``#__P``__\``/__``#__P``(``0`/__``#__P``__\``/__
M``!F`!``__\``/__``#__P``__\``"0``0``)0#R````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````)@#R````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````````````````````````````````
M````````````````````````````````)P`H````````````````````````
M```````````````````````````````H``H`!`!,`$(``@`"`"D``0`G*@`0
M`/__``#__P``__\``/__```M`+ Why do you think that the blower was fake???

 Oh, Baud.  Not the Mad Max Blower War again...

 It was a real Weiand blower case sitting on top of a stock 351C.  It
was a movie prop, and the belt was turned by an electric motor.
                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 06:56:55 1994
Subject: Re: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7604
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Feb 16, 15:27, The Hotrod List wrote:
> author's answer was to paint a longer than needed header with cheap
> spray-paint and cut the header off where the paint blistered off :^o

I believe some (many?) of the Nascar Winston Cup teams use this
method.

-Bob


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 07:06:30 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7605
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> -> This was gone into in considereable detail at one of the Superflow
> -> conferences.  Summary: Flow numbers are crap, depend on the dyno.
> 
>  The airflow numbers are something you can use to design a motor and
> predict performance; dyno numbers presuppose a dyno, a device which does
> not yet grace my humble shop.  Also, from watching John recalibrate an
> older Superflow last month, I'm even less inclined to trust dyno figures
> than I was before.

Another problem is that flow numbers don't tell you anything about
how well the combustion chamber design works.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 07:11:47 1994
Subject: Mad Max's Car
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7606
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

G'day, dont know if this has already been answered, but the Mad Max car 
was a 1977 XC Falcon Coupe with a FibreGlass kit for the nose cone.  It 
ran a stock 2 barrell 351Clevo with an empty Blower case over the carb 
which was driven by an Air Conditioning clutch to allow it to be switched 
on and off.  The car still exists and occasionally crops up at shows 
around Australia..


-- 
		Zikzak public access UNIX, Melbourne, Australia.

----------
Posted by: emory!zikzak.apana.org.au!rando (Brett Paulin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 07:17:01 1994
Subject: Re: 460 Ford
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7607
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> case,. The only big problem a person will face is the fact that
-> California is a very unfriendly place for building T-buckets without
-> some kind of preplanning for Titling reasons.

 I've read that MA and PA are also hard cases on rods.  The simple thing
to do is to bypass the whole tech inspector/state DOT mess and title the
car in a friendlier state first.  Or better yet, move.  

 For example, Arkansas doesn't require a title any more for cars built
before 1965.  If it's a newly built rod, all you need is a signed and
notarized affidavit testifying the car has never been titled before.
New title fee $10, plates $21.75, inspection $3.50.  No smog checks.
No ride height rules, fenders not required, hell, practically nothing is
required.  You must have a parking brake unless you can prove the car
was originally made without one, that's about the only thing they get
fussy about.

 Circumventing your local DMV's titling mess would require finding a
relatively near state with laws similar to the ones described above, and
a brief "sale" to a resident, who would title it and then sell it back
to you.  Your dealings with your local DMV can be considerably
de-stressed if you're armed with a fresh and valid title and
registration.

 Something similar might also benefit Canadians if their kit-car and
engine swap regs get passed.
                                                                                                                       

[Georgia and Alabama are also rod-friendly.  In georgia, they don't title
anything over 10 years old unless you just want it.  I recently
lost the title to my 80 model euro 635CSI.  This car lacks a US-style
VIN and the "VIN plate" on the dash is an engraved badge added by the 
US conversion shop I used.  I went to the DMV, they had me sign an
affidavit of ownership, ran the "VIN" to make sure it wasn't stolen,
took my money and titled it.  My new title arrived in my *PO BOX*
a couple of weeks later.  The only down-side in Ga is that they 
are now doing the california-style theft of $200 for each out-of-state
vehicle titled in the state.  Still, $240 is pretty cheap for a 
clear title.  

Tn is fairly friendly.  I imported my BMW in Tn.  I had to take it to a Tn
Hwy Patrol station for an official inspection before they'd title it.
He looked at the lights and the windshield glass and the seatbelts and
then stuck a little approval sticker inside the driver's side door kick-
panel.  That was it. JGD]


----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 14:43:41 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7608
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> It was a real Weiand blower case sitting on top of a stock 351C.  It
>was a movie prop, and the belt was turned by an electric motor.

  Hmmm, has anybody ever tried to drive a blower with an electro-
magnetic clutch (a la the AC compressor)?

  Even possible?  I can imagine weird things happening to the
mixture out of an inactive blower housing, but that shouldn't
be hard to overcome.

  Ron "Hmmmm" Rader

--
The vast percentage of sensitive, artistic intellectuals live in
dire fear of ever having to turn a fu**in' wrench!
						   - Robt. Williams

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 14:55:23 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7609
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

*>>> Mid-late 70's Ford Falcon Tudor...possibly a GT. 351/4 speed.
     Australian build only. Oz designed in fact. The police cars
     (MFP) were of the same vintage but were of course 4dr sedans..
     once again possibly GT's. Model designation would be XB or XC
     (same shell) but impossible to tell due to movie "bodywork".
     My guess is XB (1975/76 model year) series. The big black
     "star" car of Max's was more likely the XC (1977) now that 
     I think of it.

     Geof.

-- 
  ___________________________________________________________________  
|| Geof Evans                 | DOMAIN: rxkgre@minyos.xx.rmit.oz.au  ||
||   If they *really* wanna know...tell 'em that God was drunk.      ||
  -------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!minyos.xx.rmit.EDU.AU!rxkgre (Geof Evans)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 15:05:27 1994
Subject: Re: SB Chevy street motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7610
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> -> Hello,
> -> I just recieved a Chevy as a gift from a relative. Being a Mopar Man
> -> I'm kind of stuck on how to build a budget street motor something in
> -> the low 14s high 13s range with tremendous reliability and cheapness.
> -> (Don't want much do I?)
> -> 
> Matt,
> There may be personal/family reasons why you wouldn't want to do this,
> but, I'll ask the obvious question anyway, "Why not sell/trade the Chevy
> for a Mopar?"
> George Kulp
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
>  
> 
> 
> 

Matt, 
	What motor?  350?  305? 400? 14's should be relatively easy
depending on what the engine goes into.  I hit 14's in my Chevy and if I
can do it, anyone can.
		Toen

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 15:14:40 1994
Subject: Re: 460 Ford
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7611
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Feb 17, 12:37am, The Hotrod List wrote:

} Subject: Re: 460 Ford
> 

How refreshing to hear about your state's views on titling. There is nothing
good to say about California so one really has to think about a scratch 
project before going to DMV. Well Arkansas is about a three day tow for us 
San Diego guys. Hmmm!Mike


-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 15:20:20 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7612
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad Max
>film   (the black car) ?
>Cheers. Floris.
The car was a Ford Falcon coupe. I'm not sure of the model but it would
have been one of XA, XB, or XC (probable XA or XB).
It is on display at the Australian Motor Museum near Adelaide if your
interested.

I believe the character called "The Toecutter"?? was driving a HQ Holden.
-- 
Brad Keifer, BHP Information Technology, Newcastle Region, Australia
PO Box 216.  Hamilton.  NSW.  2303
internet: brad@cerberus.bhpese.oz.au            Phone: +61 49 401188
                                                Fax:   +61 49 402165

----------
Posted by: emory!cerberus.bhpese.oz.au!brad (Brad Keifer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 17 15:25:11 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-7*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7613
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

AMA, CAMEL PRO, SAN JOSE (T)          02/17    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA Grand National Series             02/17    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Neon, Acura NSX)           02/17    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
AMA Camel Series                      02/18    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/19    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/19    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (customizing)      02/19    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             02/19    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA TWIN 125's (T)   02/19    12:00-1:00PM     CBS
Winners                               02/19    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/19    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/19    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/19    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
NASCAR, 1993 Highlights               02/19    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
This Week In NASCAR                   02/19    4:00-5:00PM      HTS*
MotorWeek                             02/19    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
SpeedWeek                             02/19    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (SD)                02/19    8:30-11:00PM     ESPN
Road To The Indy 500                  02/19    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
Motoworld                             02/20    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             02/20    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (SD)                02/20    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/20    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/20    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners                               02/20    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/20    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/20    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/20   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:00-3:30PM     CBS
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS,BANDIMERE(T)02/20    2:00-3:25PM      TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    02/20    3:25-3:30PM      TNN
NASCAR, CALIFORNIA 200 (L)            02/20    3:30-5:30PM      TNN
International Auto Show, Detroit      02/20    4:30-5:30PM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             02/20    5:30-6:00PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (customizing)      02/20    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    02/20    6:00-6:05PM      TNN
SPRINT CARS, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)  02/20    6:05-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/20    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/20    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/20    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
NHRA, MOTOCRAFT NATIONALS, PHOENIX(SD)02/20    10:00-11:00PM    ESPN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      02/20    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/20   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/21    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Brian Carson)02/21    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
This Week On Pit Road                 02/21    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speedway America                      02/21    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             02/22    5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
AMA Camel Series                      02/22    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speedway America                      02/22    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN2
MIDGET NATIONALS, OKLAHOMA CITY (T)   02/23    12:00-1:00AM     HTS*
Motoworld                             02/23    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN2
F1 SNOWMOBILE RACING, EAGLE RIVER (T) 02/23    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             02/23    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
AMA Camel Series                      02/23    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
AMA Camel Series                      02/24    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
NHRA, MOTOCRAFT NATIONALS, PHOENIX (T)02/25    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             02/25    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
AMA Camel Series                      02/25    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/25    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00-3:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:05-5:00PM     TNN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (L)                03/05    1:00PM           TNN
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, START (L)     03/19    9:30AM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, UPDATE (L)    03/19    1:30PM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, FINISH (L)    03/19    10:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    tba              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (L)            03/20    1:00PM           TNN
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (SD)03/20    10:00PM          ESPN
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (L)              03/26    1:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (?)               03/26 (live coverage unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (L)                 03/27    tba              TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/27    1:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (T)                 03/28    12:00AM          ESPN
IHRA, WINTER NATIONALS (T)            04/03    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 04/03    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (L)                 04/09    2:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              04/10    1:10PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, PHOENIX (L)                  04/10    5:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (?)        04/10    tba              tba
NASCAR MODIFIEDS, N. WILKESBORO (L)   04/16    1:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, PACIFIC (SD)               04/17    7:50AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (L)        04/17    1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LONG BEACH (L)               04/17    tba              ABC
IMSA, ATLANTA GRAND PRIX (SD)         04/17    5:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (L)            04/23    2:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (L)         04/24    12:00PM          ESPN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS (?)          04/24    tba              tba

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 04:50:52 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7614
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>>
>>-> Hi, does someone know which kind of car they used in the first Mad
>>-> Max film   (the black car) ?
>>
>> It was a '70s Australian Falcon, 351C, automatic, fake blower.
>>                                                                                                                         
>  The blower was a Weiand (sp?) 6-71 with a satin glove? injector.
>  The blower pulley was engaged by a pulling a cable from inside the 
>  car!!  Ha ha, I hope that cable also activated some type of fuel
>  system enrichener!!
>    Why do you think that the blower was fake???

greetings:
  i had always wondered how the engine breathed when the blower was "off".
perhaps the lever also opened/closed a bypass valve, allowing regular
non-huffed air into the engine....
  also, is there a way to use an airconditioner-type pully (& electric
switch) to power/activate a supercharger?  (again, with a complimentary
switch to open an airvalve somewhere to allow air into the engine)

more random thoughts from the mind of...
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:00:52 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7615
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Australian build only. Oz designed in fact. The police cars
-> (MFP) were of the same vintage but were of course 4dr sedans..

 Not only that, most were Holdens, not Fords.
                                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:12:40 1994
Subject: Re: 460 Ford
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7616
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> project before going to DMV. Well Arkansas is about a three day tow
-> for us San Diego guys. Hmmm!Mike

 Hell, come on down!
                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:22:39 1994
Subject: Dimensions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7617
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Keywords: 

Does anyone have information regarding wheelbase and other related
dimensions for GM or Ford?  Pre-1987.

Tanx,
Eric Simpson		Charlotte, NC

----------
Posted by: emory!uncc.edu!ewsimpso (Eric W Simpson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:33:57 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7618
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Another problem is that flow numbers don't tell you anything about
-> how well the combustion chamber design works.

 Chambers of a given type are pretty much the same.  You can also just
flip the head over and look at the chamber.  Airflow figures aren't so
easy.
                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:42:12 1994
Subject: Re: Mad Max's Car
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7619
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>G'day, dont know if this has already been answered, but the Mad Max car 
>was a 1977 XC Falcon Coupe with a FibreGlass kit for the nose cone.  It 
>ran a stock 2 barrell 351Clevo with an empty Blower case over the carb 
>which was driven by an Air Conditioning clutch to allow it to be switched 
>on and off.  The car still exists and occasionally crops up at shows 
>around Australia..
>
>
>-- 
>		Zikzak public access UNIX, Melbourne, Australia.
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!zikzak.apana.org.au!rando (Brett Paulin)


Hi, are you shure it's a 77 ? A lot of people said it was a 70.
Cheers. Floris.

----------
Posted by: emory!dxcern.cern.ch!bonf (Floris Bonthond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:51:49 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7620
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
>   Hmmm, has anybody ever tried to drive a blower with an electro-
> magnetic clutch (a la the AC compressor)?
 
Yep.  Toyota did it in the MR2.  You also need to have a bypass
valve to allow air to flow around the blower unrestricted (at least
at lower flowrates).  Obviously, this only works well with port injection
or gaseous (CNG or propane) carburation.

I'm not sure of the exact citation, but there is an SAE paper on
using electric clutches and bypass valves with roots blowers.
The conclusion of the paper was that the additional cost and complexity
of the clutch was unnecessary because the majority of the efficiency
gains could be realized with just a bypass valve.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 05:59:38 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ? (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7621
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  Hmmm, has anybody ever tried to drive a blower with an electro-
>magnetic clutch (a la the AC compressor)?

You mean like Toyota did with the supercharged MR2?

I never looked to see what kind of blower Mr. Two used, but supposedly a Roots-
type blower is not suited to being turned off (screws don't turn = no air gets
in), but a centrifugal blower can be turned off no problem.  (That's why the
Mad Max car was a mock-up - the blower they were using couldn't have been
turned off unless some sort of inlet air bypass was rigged up.)
>
>  Ron "Hmmmm" Rader
>
>Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 

David Wright

----------
Posted by: David Wright 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 06:07:28 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7622
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
>   Hmmm, has anybody ever tried to drive a blower with an electro-
> magnetic clutch (a la the AC compressor)?
>  

	Closest I ever saw to this (no real comparison) was the 
	paxton blower (blow thru carb) on a 57 Stude Goldenhawk.
	It had a variable pitch(?) clutch arrangement on it 
	to alter the speed of the blower.
	That was a cool car...

> 
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 06:12:20 1994
Subject: Re: Karting
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7623
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>On Feb 16, 15:27, The Hotrod List wrote:
>> author's answer was to paint a longer than needed header with cheap
>> spray-paint and cut the header off where the paint blistered off :^o

>I believe some (many?) of the Nascar Winston Cup teams use this
>method.

  What's the theory behind this?  Is that the point in the headers where
the exhaust is resonating so well that the paint just peels off? :>

-- 
|        Peter J Nelson        |    "Rebels are we! Born to be free!    |
|  pjnelson@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu   |     Just like the fish in the sea!"    | 
| University of Illinois @ U/C |               - Esposito               | 
|    Mechanical Engineering    |     former president of San Marcos     |

----------
Posted by: emory!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!pjnelson (Peter J Nelson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 18 06:15:01 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7624
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In message   writes:
> > It was a real Weiand blower case sitting on top of a stock 351C.  It
> >was a movie prop, and the belt was turned by an electric motor.
> 
>   Hmmm, has anybody ever tried to drive a blower with an electro-
> magnetic clutch (a la the AC compressor)?
> 
>   Even possible?  I can imagine weird things happening to the
> mixture out of an inactive blower housing, but that shouldn't
> be hard to overcome.

While breaking in a new engine on my supercharger (roots type) rx7, I drove with
the belt off of the blower.  It makes the car a little sluggish.  The blower 
will free-spin as the throttle plates are opened.  The only problem is the the 
car ran very rich so the mixture had to be greatly leaned out.

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 08:07:31 1994
Subject: Nitrous Oxide What does it do?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7625
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Joe, read the February 1994 issue of Hot Rod Magazine.  They explain in
a fair amount of detail how it works.  You are right about how it
injects oxygen into the intake, however, I assume that bottled N2O is a
lot cheaper than pure oxygen.  I remember from Chemistry that the
atmosphere is nearly 80% nitrogen, so separating the oxygen would be
quite difficult.  Anyway, the fore-mentioned magazine has covered nearly
every aspect of engines and cars in its series "How Does It Work?".
Enjoy!

                                                Greg A. Westphal

                                                gregaw@eng.umd.edu

[You CANNOT use pure oxygen or even much oxygen erichment in an engine
unless you are fond of spectacular explosions.  Oxygen accelerates the
combustion far too rapidly to be useful in an engine.  Ask me how I
know, I dare you :-) The important thing to understand about nitrous is
that it releases oxygen in a controlled manner during combustion.  The
disassociation of the N2O molecule absorbs energy and the nitrogen
absorbs additional energy.  All these moderate the effect of the oxygen
release.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!eng.umd.edu!gregaw (Greg A. Westphal)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 08:20:23 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7626
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Ron Rader aka PTM  wrote:
>  Ron "Heck, I'd Like To See Someone Resurrect The Gas Turbine;
>       That's It!  A Turbine Kart!" Rader

why not start with a ~60hp bizjet apu?  i've always wanted to make a
turbine -bike-...  2 hitches -- the transmission [can't decide whether
electric or hydrostatic would be better] and the cost.  even apus cost
tens of thousands.  mileage would also be appalling - i once estimated
-6- mpg!  apus are usually designed to provide lots of 'bleed air' to
start the main engines, so they're not very efficient shaft powerplants.

it'd be truly awesome to cruise on, though.  can you imagine whistling
up to the diesel pump at the gas station?

-andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

[I was prowling through some boxes at my parent's house last night
and lo and behold, what did I find but a good chunk of my magazine
collection from the mid 60s up to about 1975.  Among the interesting
magazines,

Popular Science, Sept 73 - Chrysler's turbine car is on the cover
    and a 2 page fold-out
Mechanix Illustrated, May 73 - On the cover, a homemade 55 lb thrust
	turbojet about the size of a 5 gallon gas can.
Motorcyclist Jan 74, On the cover, DKW's Wankel street bike.
Cycle Guide Aug 74, On the cover, my favorite motorcycle of all time,
	the Suzuki 750 "water buffalo".  Inside, a review of the Suzuki
	RE-5 Wankel.  
Sport Wheels (a Ga bi-weekly racing magazine) June 73, on the cover,
Southern Tech's (here in Marietta) bathtub races and Great Tricycle
Races in Oakwood, GA.

The motorcycle issues are particularly interesting because they came 
from a time when men were men and road tests included tearing the
engine down for a photo shoot.

I'm going to be scanning some of these articles.  I'll post the text
to the list and send the GIFs (B&W only, unfortunately) to the
archive site.  

Thumbing through these old magazines confirms that my memories aren't
being embellished by age.  Things WERE better back then.  The interval
from about 68 to 75 WAS the (latest?  Last?) golden era of motorsports
racing.  Imagine there being enough motorcycle and car racing in the
state of Georgia to support a bi-weekly (later weekly) 65 page magazine!
I counted 10 large racing-oriented motorcycle shops advertising in this
issue from Dalton, GA alone (a town of about 15,000 people back then.)
It was typical for us to race at one track Friday night, another
Saturday night and another Sunday afternoon.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 08:31:36 1994
Subject: Re: *really* small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7627
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

emory!pms706.pms.ford.com!bkelley (Brian Kelley) wrote:
>If you want to mess with a *really* small Wankel, there was once (still
>is?) a Wankel model airplane engine.

graupner.
1 rotor, .30 c.i. [5cc]
it came out ~'71 and was still around ~'90.

-andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 08:41:25 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7628
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

pms706.pms.ford.com!bkelley (Brian Kelley) writes:
>I think I'd rather have flow numbers for the intake and exhaust at
>each .1 of valve lift.  Dyno numbers can really lie.

flow numbers can lie too; they are almost always -static- flow,
whereas flow in an engine is [of course] dynamic.

if this difference sounds trivial, consider what a flow bench would
make of a tuned header.

-andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 08:53:03 1994
Subject: Harwood Fireberglass Hood
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7629
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi, I am planning to buy a cowlinduction fiberglass hood from Harwood for
my 83' Firebird, since I could not find anybody selling a used onw in central
Ohio during the last six months. Before I spend almost $400, I would like to
know if anybody has any experience with Harwood's products, and what do
you think of it in terms of lightness, strongness, and fitness. Also, if
anyone knows any better cheaper one, or knows someone has a used one to get
rid of, please let me know.

Thank you so much!

Jizhong He

----------
Posted by: emory!MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU!HJZ
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 09:03:41 1994
Subject: RE: Horsepower measurements
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7630
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-Speaking of dynos, here is the coast-down method of measuring HP.
-You really only need a stopwatch and an accurate speedometer but I use a
-radar gun for more precision in the speed measurement.
...
Wow, I always thought that there was an engine dyno built into my car.  I
always thought that if you measured engine rpm and car position information
fast enough, with a little knowlege (weight, friction, etc) you could get
torque curves and hp figures.  Anyone have any guesses on how fast is fast
enough?  RPM and MPH figures 10 times a second?  What are good ways to measure
MPH?  How good would it be to measure a pulse /rev of a non-driven tire?  I had
always hoped that GPS would be good enough for this application (if you knew
X,Y,Z data a level track would not be necessary) but they need to come down an
order of magnitude in price and go up a few orders of magnitude in performance
($50 vs $500 and 10 pts / second vs one point every 10 seconds).

Any one else interested in persuing a project such as this?

- Steven Ciciora

[I have a project underway here for a future magazine article to do this
with doppler radar.  The whole setup can be built for under $200, 
maybe even $100 if you're good at scrounging microwave motion
detectors as are used for door openers.  This approach measures speed
vs time directly which IMHO, is easier to deal with than the 
accelerometer-based products such as the Banks Dynofact and the Vericoms.
Accelerometer-based instruments must integrate acceleration to compute
speed plus it must compensate for front end lift which "looks" like
acceleration to an accelerometer.

Another way to do the measurement if your car does not spin its tires
is to attach a couple of magnets to the driveshaft, position a coil
nearby, slice and buffer the pulses with a comparator and pipe the 
pulses to the *ACK line on a PC parallel port.  This line can be
set to generate an interrupt on each toggle and a reasonably fast
386 laptop can catch a few thousand of these a second.  Using the
high res clock routine from my fuel injection flow bench software
or elsewhere, one can read the clock and thus measure the period
of the driveshaft pulses and compute the frequency.  Since 8000
RPM on the driveshaft with two magnets is only 267 pulses per 
second, the parallel port can easily handle the job.  One can write
some software to collect a dataset of frequency vs time and use 
Lotus or whatever to reduce the data.

Another source of pulses is the reed switch interruptor used by
taxi-cab meters.  Check your yellow pages under "speedometer shops"
for a source.  This thing goes in the speedo cable.  This can be
wired directly to the *ACK line and ground.

Finally, if your car has an electronic speedo or tranny, there is likely
already a speed transducer you can tap into.  

Finally, if you have a video recorder that can freeze frame and single
step, you can simply video tape your speedo or tach (or even better,
digital aftermarket equivalents) and get the timing from the 
known framerate of the video system.  If you're a real cheap mutha like
me, don't have a cam-corder and don't want to buy one, you can 
get a cheap VCR from the pawn shop for $50 or so and a security camera
for <$100 and run the whole thing from a 60 hz inverter in your car.
Comp-USA has a 200 watt inverter on sale right now for $59. 

Though a lot of people poo-poo the technique in this era of megabuck
data acquisition systems but it is hard to beat the data bandwidth of a
video camera aimed at a bank of gauges.  If you want a very low light,
infrared sensitive CCD camera about 1/4 the size of a 3.5" floppy, you
can order one from an outfit called Personal Computer Tools.  800 767
6728.  Price is $210 for the 324X246 pixel camera and $265 for the high
res 512X492 pixel (240X240 and 350X350 lines respectively) I've seen the
low-res camera at hamfests for $100 but this one is at the tip of your
800 dialer :-) The high res camera will push the limit of even a high
quality VCR.  These little cameras are REAL handy for a bunch of tasks.
If you want to see if your accelerator pump is running out of juice too
fast and is causing the bog, just put the camera over the carb mouth.
Wondering if your suspension is hiting the limits?  Put the camera in
the wheel well inside a baggy.  Wonder if your engine is twisting on its
mounts and hitting the chassis and making a noise?  Aim the camera at
the suspect and take the car for a spin.  Wondering if the rear end is
twisting and making the drive shaft vibrate?  Mount the camera in the
tunnel and take a look.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: "Ciciora Steve" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 09:16:53 1994
Subject: Blown Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7631
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
> the belt off of the blower.  It makes the car a little sluggish.  The blower 
> will free-spin as the throttle plates are opened.  The only problem is the the 
> car ran very rich so the mixture had to be greatly leaned out.

How's that running now?  Ever get your ProJection and ignition
(plug fouling) problems sorted out?

Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 09:22:45 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1" ?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7632
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Yep.  Toyota did it in the MR2.  You also need to have a bypass
> valve to allow air to flow around the blower unrestricted (at least
> at lower flowrates).  Obviously, this only works well with port injection
> or gaseous (CNG or propane) carburation.
> 
> I'm not sure of the exact citation, but there is an SAE paper on
> using electric clutches and bypass valves with roots blowers.
> The conclusion of the paper was that the additional cost and complexity
> of the clutch was unnecessary because the majority of the efficiency
> gains could be realized with just a bypass valve.

I should have put some more relevant info in there.  Ford and Buick
are both using boost bypass valves on their Eaton (roots) supercharged
V-6's.  I don't believe either of them are using clutches.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 09:28:39 1994
Subject: BIG THREE SWAP MEET SAN DIEGO 19/FEB94
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7633
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

For you guys close to SOCAL, the annual Big Three Swap Meet sponsored
by the Antique Auto Club here begins tonight at the MURPH, Jack Murphy
Stadium, I-8 in Mission Valley and goes through Sunday. It is free to buyers
and there is no parking charges either.  Usually has a great selection of 
performance stuff. Stop by a say hello. I have my usual spot in the 
Over the Hill Gang San Diego section, FK-9.Cheers.Mike


-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 20:39:11 1994
Subject: Re: Mad Max's Car
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7634
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Hi, are you shure it's a 77 ? A lot of people said it was a 70.

 No, it's later than that.  It looks an awful lot like a USA-model '70
Torino.  In fact, it looks like Ford/Australia just downsized the US
styling.  No problem with that, I always thought the '70-'71 Torinos
were fine looking, but too huge to be worthwhile.

 The '70 351CJ I had (11.2:1 stock compression!) was no slouch.  Losing
a few hundred pounds of flab, adding a four speed, four wheel disks, and
the other goodies the Aussies tacked on would make a *nice* ride.
                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 20:47:25 1994
Subject: Re: Mad Max's Car
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7635
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <+1k4=xq@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
> >G'day, dont know if this has already been answered, but the Mad Max car 
> >was a 1977 XC Falcon Coupe with a FibreGlass kit for the nose cone.  It 
> >ran a stock 2 barrell 351Clevo with an empty Blower case over the carb 
> >which was driven by an Air Conditioning clutch to allow it to be switched 
> >on and off.  The car still exists and occasionally crops up at shows 
> >around Australia..
> Hi, are you shure it's a 77 ? A lot of people said it was a 70.
> Cheers. Floris.

Well, as luck would have it, I ran into Steve Yardley tonight, he the
guy who played MMs side kick, and asked. It is a XD Hardtop, faked up,
( he remarked that the FX guys wanted to do it 'for real' and got told
to spend their own money if they wanted a rod... ). The blower was
show only, an empty case over the carbs with a AC clutch to drive the
belt and pulley.

The XA came out in about 71-72. Had a XA ute, it was a real dog. Next
year was the XB, then XC and XD. Not sure that the XC and XD where a 1 year
intervals though. The XD was the last of that body shell.

Just remembered, put about 200,000 m on a XA taxi. Went OK, but you
needed a friendly shiek if you got over 70mph. At 90 you could see the
fuel gauge dropping as you drove... They also had crap front disks on
them. The XBs where a big improvement. But still 50 years behind a DS21.

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 20:58:13 1994
Subject: Re: Nitrous Oxide What does it do?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7636
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> unless you are fond of spectacular explosions.  Oxygen accelerates the
> combustion far too rapidly to be useful in an engine.  Ask me how I
> know, I dare you :-) The important thing to understand about nitrous is
> that it releases oxygen in a controlled manner during combustion.  The
> disassociation of the N2O molecule absorbs energy and the nitrogen
> absorbs additional energy.  All these moderate the effect of the oxygen
> release.  JGD]
> 

Ok, how do you know?  Ever experimented with it in one of them
slowburnin wankels?

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

[Dare I say it?  The venerable B&S lawnmower engine.  One of several
times I literally blew the head off the block.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 21:08:21 1994
Subject: Re: Horsepower measurements
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7637
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
> [I have a project underway here for a future magazine article to do this
> with doppler radar.  The whole setup can be built for under $200, 
> maybe even $100 if you're good at scrounging microwave motion
> detectors as are used for door openers.  This approach measures speed
> vs time directly which IMHO, is easier to deal with than the 
> accelerometer-based products such as the Banks Dynofact and the Vericoms.
> Accelerometer-based instruments must integrate acceleration to compute
> speed plus it must compensate for front end lift which "looks" like
> acceleration to an accelerometer.

The Dynafact uses both acceleration AND speed inputs.  I had the
speed input of mine spliced into the speedo sender in the tranny
(!@#$%&* GM 1000 pulse/mile, try finding an aftermarket speedo to
work with that), but Banks also runs 'em off traditional driveshaft
magnets.  It does have a setting for change in angle of attack under
acceleration, but its just a constant (not sure if and how they scale
it). 


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 21:14:37 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7638
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> >each .1 of valve lift.  Dyno numbers can really lie.

> flow numbers can lie too; they are almost always -static- flow,
> whereas flow in an engine is [of course] dynamic.

 Ditto for dyno numbers.  The dyno tests either by loading to a
particular RPM and taking a reading, or simply doing a full-throttle
sweep while varying load.  That tells you nothing about how the engine
responds to the throttle.  Grumpy Jenkins has a few words to say on the
subject in his book.

[Some later model dynos, such as the SuperFlow 901 have throttle
servos and can run a throttle program too.  With such a setup, one
can do anything on the dyno one can do on the track.  The computer 
can simulate the car's inertia and drag losses and the throttle servo
can replicate throttle motion recorded, for example, from a throttle
position sensor in a race car.  The advantage is it can do it over
and over and over under exactly the same conditions each time.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 21:19:54 1994
Subject: Re: Small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7639
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [I was prowling through some boxes at my parent's house last night
-> and lo and behold, what did I find but a good chunk of my magazine
-> collection from the mid 60s up to about 1975.  Among the interesting
-> magazines,

 I cleared out 25 years' worth of car magazines a couple of years ago,
but the bike magazines stayed.


-> Thumbing through these old magazines confirms that my memories aren't
-> being embellished by age.  Things WERE better back then.  The

 At least the articles were better back then.  Could you imagine the
expression on some PR flack's face when Cook Neilson and Gordon Jennings
returned their test bike in half a dozen boxes?  After flogging anything
interesting at the track Neilson would rip the bike apart and Jennings
would make technoid comments about the innards.  Now bike tests read
like reprocessed PR drivel.  Bah.
                                                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 19 21:24:41 1994
Subject: Re: *really* small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7640
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>>If you want to mess with a *really* small Wankel, there was once (still
>>is?) a Wankel model airplane engine.

>graupner.
>1 rotor, .30 c.i. [5cc]
>it came out ~'71 and was still around ~'90.

  Hey, I'd say that these dinky engines fit the charter! ;)

  I've never been involved in R/C, other than fooling around with the
occasional .049 Cox model car.  How would I go about finding this
puppy?

  The reason I ask here is because I have my Dad's old model Diesel
engine, and I've asked around some of our local mall-type hobby outlets
for info, and they're completely clueless.  Frigging worthless gits...

  Anybody have a homebrew fuel formula for this little sucker?  I'm
not about to gunk it up with that Cox castor oil before getting some
pointers first...

  Ron "If I Can't Build A Kart, Let's Try A Model" Rader

--
The vast percentage of sensitive, artistic intellectuals live in
dire fear of ever having to turn a fu**in' wrench!
						   - Robt. Williams

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 20 10:23:24 1994
Subject: Re: Horsepower measurements
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7641
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


If anyone has access to a library that still has Sports Car Graphic
in its collection, look in the issues from about 68-72.

They had a quite nice setup. No computer then, but the 5th wheel and
suspension travel stuff would be 100% usable now. They also mentioned
several 'practical' problems and fixes.
--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 20 10:37:18 1994
Subject: Re: what is the car used in the film "Mad Max 1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7642
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <=hh4r!h@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> the net some time ago. A vague memory says 'Ford Falcon XC'?????
> The engine was supposed to be a Ford big block Police Interceptor.
Yep, VC or XD Foulcoon... With a 351 cleavland. probaly a police pack.
> I'm sure some of our friends down under can help us out. Maybe a
> posting to rec.autos.misc?

Being done...

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 10:22:38 1994
Subject: engines annual
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7643
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 For the last ten years or so I've been buying Hot Rod's Engine Annuals
whenever I noticed them.  I've missed a few, but it was cheaper to just
buy the annual than subscribe to the magazine since the engines were all
I cared about anyway.

 I just picked the new one up at the supermarket.  Now it's just
"Engines," generic across the Peterson Publishing magazine line, instead
of being specific to Hot Rod Magazine.

"Budget Tech:"  They build a $795 350 Chevy from econo parts.  No sweat,
except the article shows them beating some pistons out of the block by
slipping a socket over the rod bolt and hammering away.  Eeeyarrrgh!
Good way to knock a rod out of round.  The engine had already been bored
and fitted with TRW forged pistons, so they evaded about $350 in machine
work and parts.  Chances of getting a primo already-bored engine are
negligible; the real price to duplicate the motor would be around $1000,
as they had to replace the crank for $110.  They had the heads fitted
with hardened seats for $74 for the pair; rock-bottom price around here
is $15 per seat, or $240.  Otherwise it was your generic "how to rebuild
your small block Chevy" article for the 240 millionth time.

"3 Ways to Build A Street Engine:" is three small block 400 buildups
from three different builders.  John Lingenfelter built a 420 using a
.030 overbore and a 3.875 (.100 stroker) Callies crank and 5.7 rods.
The piston pin ought to be smack in the middle of the oil ring with that
setup.  They showed a picture of an E/SP Camaro and babbled about how
such an engine would help an autocrosser, evidently blithely unaware
that the 420 would send an SCCA tech inspector into an arm-flapping,
foaming rabid frenzy.
 Joe Sherman built a 406 with 14.5:1 compression, 6.150 rods (with a
3.75 crank!) and a 280/288 @.050 (not advertised duration, yes, it says
.050) cam with .675 lift, and Dart heads.  He calls it a street motor,
but it's lumpier than the motors Grumpy Jenkins described in his book
on building Pro Stock drag motors.  Sherman is quoted as, "find the
valve-to-piston clearance, subtract .050, and that's the perfect lift"
and "in most cases, an engine needs about 20 degrees more duration than
the owner thinks it does."
 Dick Gazan built a 377 (4.125 x 3.48) with 12.5:1 compression, 6 inch
rods, ported Brodix Track 1s, and a 276@.050, .625 cam.  He thinks it's
a street motor too.  Maybe a Saturday Night Special, but it would take
a truly dedicated car geek to live with something like that going to
work every day.

"50 Engine Detail Tricks:" shows you how to spatter-paint your
windshield washer fluid bottle and put Chevy decals under your hood.
Ho-hum.

"MSD Installation Pointers:" is what John calls an advectorial.

"The Facts Behind Superchargers:" is a very basic three pager, mostly
types of compressors and pictures.  Nothing technical.

"Buying Used Blowers:" was actually worthwhile, going into differences
between various types of GMC superchargers and problems to look for.
I'd seen most of the stuff here and there, but this was well presented.

"Supercharger Buyer's Guide:" another advectorial, but it had some
addresses for the Vendor List.  Camden Superchargers is back!

"Wild Horses:" has to make the obligatory idiotic Mustang puns.  It's
about a 742hp blown 302 built by Ken Duttweiler.  Simply assemble a
four bolt SVO block, 3 inch SVO forged crank, 5.51 Callies billet rods,
custom Wiseco forged pistons, a 262@.050 oval track roller cam, (yes,
another "street" motor that idles like a Harley), ported TFS heads,
a modified Weiand tunnel ram with an EFI throttle body, dry sump, and
17 pounds of boost with a Vortech blower.  The article kept going on
about how Vortech was going to have a 50-state-legal blower kit soon,
but what that has to do with an engine with a cam like this one is
beyond me.  The engine made 742hp @ 7600 RPM.  Not as much as some of
his Buick V6s, but he's still learning.  

"Free Horsepower:" is basically how to do a tuneup.

"Headers and Exhausts:" is another "this is a header" gloss job.

"Pro-Flow Q-Jet:" is a fairly good story of The Carburetor Shop's mods
to a new Edelbrock Quadrajet.  Not as detailed as it could be, but some
good information there.

"Street Hemis:" was a mystery.  Some short sidebars, some ads, a semi-
useful sidebar of putting Hemi heads on 440 blocks, and that was it.
No detail at all, and any Mopar fan would probably be annoyed.

"Air Power:" is yet another crate motor shootout.  The last one they
had, the Chrysler 360 hammered the Ford 351HO and Chevy ZZ3 into
oblivion in a column shifted bench-seat Dart.  This one is just an
overview of the '93 offerings, I guess they were afraid to actually
drag test them this time.  Last time they kept apologizing because
the Chevy didn't win.

"King of the Crate Motors:" talks about the newest 501 Chevy. They
used some new square port Gen V heads on the test motor, which gave
much better results than the asthmatic 454 production heads.  The
production Gen V heads are sized more for a 305-sized motor than a
454.  Anyway, they tested three slightly different variants on the
dyno, fairly useful stuff if you're planning on buying one.  There
were no comparisons to the Ford SVO 460 and Chrysler Marine 440, so
I don't know how they justified the "King" title, unless it's the
king of Chevy's own crate motor line.

"First Engine Start:" tells you how to start up your first engine.
Yawn.    "Like a virgin... oo wooo...."

"Combo Platter:" is a moderately detailed article on Edelbrock's
Performer RPM 351W heads.  It waved the Edelbrock flag pretty hard,
but it actually had airflow figures... without pressure drop.  

"Low-Buck Engine Blueprinting:" is a rehash of the "how to rebuild
your motor" in the back of any Chilton's manual.

"High-Port How-To:" talked about Chevy's 18 degree Bowtie heads.
Among other details: the valve stems have to be longer, and the intake
manifold face angle is different, so ordinary intakes won't fit.
Quite useful info if you're thinking about some 18 degree heads.

"Restricted Area:" talks about NASCAR restrictor plates and intake
manifolds designed to make the best of them.  It was relatively
interesting, but it would have been more useful if they'd printed
the actual words of the rulebook.  The article implies the intake
manifold is part of the controlled area, so I'm confused.

"Budget Power Secrets:"  "With proper planning, a little resource-
fulness, hard work on your part, and a little luck, you can rebuild
a tired engine for $500."  Jeez, they shouldda told the guys in the
first article, and saved $295.

"The Red Seal:" a very vague overview of valve stem seals.

"Inching Up:" how to buy a stroked 305 from RHS.  That's a 305 with
a 400 crank and rods; just turn down the mains and it falls together.
KB now makes a piston suitable for a 5.7 rod instead of the 5.56.
They put in a 212@.050, 108 lobe center cam in, looked like a good
selection there, then blithely wrote off the 305 heads in favor of
some World Products heads.  Hell, if you're going to spend that
much money, why stay with a 305?  RHS also wants $2800 for one of
the motors; stay with more appropriate stock heads and you could
put one together for half the price and have money to take the old
lady out to dinner too.

"Cam and Valvetrain Parts:" is another advectorial.

"Extra-Strength:" is that long rod 351W Peter Saueracker reported
on some months ago in PHR; what the article is doing in here I don't
know, unless Peterson has bought PHR from Lopez.  The parts still
look just as mismatched to me as they did before.

"Thoughts for Fuel:" is a "how to run your fuel lines" article.
Actually quite good, with a GPM/diameter nomogram to figure fuel
flow, discussion of AN fittings vs. flares, hard lines, etc.

"Engine Tips and Tricks:" is a set of helpful tips for assembling
and detailing your engine.  There are several very nice tips here,
don't automatically pass it up.

"Exhaust Insulating Tips:" shows several interesting photos of
wrapped headers disintegrating after 1000 miles or less of operation,
plus lots of advectorial stuff on how to buy and install header wrap.
Looking at the pictures in the article, it's hard to see why you'd
want to support the header industry to that extent.

"Pass the Gas:" is an installation article on a NOS nitrous system.

"Dyno-Proven Small Blocks:" is another advectorial.

"Combination Platters:" is a very basic "how to bolt some stuff onto
your motor" article.

"Swap Meat:" has some photos of a few engine swaps.  5.0 into early
Mustang (yawn), 454 into '80 El Camino (drops right in... hey, John,
that'd solve your El Camino cojone problem), Buick GN V6 into El
Camino (bolts right up to stock Buick mounts), 350 TPI Chevy into
Fox Mustang.  That's the only real swap, the others just drop in on
stock mounts.

"A Stylin' and Functional Timing-Chain Cover:"  yes, a whole article
on how to put an aluminum timing chain cover on your small Chevy.

---

There's an ad from Sallee Chevrolet (800)545-0048, with the following
items listed:

4L60 (last-gen T700) automatic, brand new from GM, 1800 stall convertor,
$1550.

Borg-Warner T56 six speed manual, 2.95 first, .80 fifth, .67 sixth,
as used in '93 Z-28 Camaro, $1550, spec sheets available

502 kit - Bowtie block, Chevy crank, Wiseco pistons, Speed-Pro rings,
all assorted parts, brand new, no remanufactured parts, unassembled,
$3395, that's $700 less than the assembled 502 crate motor.

 Those are seriously good prices, with the tranny prices verging on
the "amost too good to be true" mark.  That's less than some rebuilders
want for a T700, and a thousand bucks cheaper than the last price I
saw for a six speed.
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 10:38:14 1994
Subject: Re: Nitrous Oxide What does it do?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7644
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:


>Joe, read the February 1994 issue of Hot Rod Magazine.  They explain in
>a fair amount of detail how it works.  You are right about how it
>injects oxygen into the intake, however, I assume that bottled N2O is a
>lot cheaper than pure oxygen.  I remember from Chemistry that the
>atmosphere is nearly 80% nitrogen, so separating the oxygen would be
>quite difficult.  Anyway, the fore-mentioned magazine has covered nearly
>every aspect of engines and cars in its series "How Does It Work?".
>Enjoy!

>                                                Greg A. Westphal

>                                                gregaw@eng.umd.edu

>[You CANNOT use pure oxygen or even much oxygen erichment in an engine
>unless you are fond of spectacular explosions.  Oxygen accelerates the
>combustion far too rapidly to be useful in an engine.  Ask me how I
>know, I dare you :-) The important thing to understand about nitrous is
>that it releases oxygen in a controlled manner during combustion.  The
>disassociation of the N2O molecule absorbs energy and the nitrogen
>absorbs additional energy.  All these moderate the effect of the oxygen
>release.  JGD]

>----------
>Posted by: emory!eng.umd.edu!gregaw (Greg A. Westphal)

	I don't know if this response was directed towards me or not, but I
would like to clarify a point, even though I no longer the plethora of
hotrod related magazines as I once did when I was in high school.  You fail
to mention the most important reason as to why nitrous produces the additional
horsepower:  additional fuel is burned.  You do not inject only N2O but fuel
as well.  It is like supercharging in a bottle since you are able to introduce
both more fuel and oxygen in the chamber than is possible due to increased
density.  The nitrouos dissociates and the additional fuel reacts with the 
additional oxygen present from the N2O.  Granted, a fair amount of energy is
absorbed in the process, but the bottom line is that you need the oxygen to
combine with the additional fuel you also inject to produce a net power
surplus.  Try injecting straight nitrous and let me know how moderate the
oxygen release turns out to be....I've had more than my fair share of solenoid
failures over the years.....
		(Just clarifying, no offense intended)

				Joemama


----------
Posted by: immordino joseph jr 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 10:44:35 1994
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7645
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>In article  Bob Hale (hale@brooktree.com) writes:
>>
>>I have accumulated empirical evidence that the rear brake fluid
>>reservoir of Delco master cylinders loses fluid to _something_
>>but I can't figure out where it goes.
>>
>>I have examined the wheel cylinders, the proportioning valve,
>>and the master cylinder itself for signs of exterior leakage.
>>I can't find any, yet the fluid level in the rear reservoir
>>slowly diminishes.  I thought that perhaps the fluid from the
>>rear might be leaking into the front reservoir but the level
>>there doesn't seem to rise any.  Anybody have any ideas?

>	Um, compensation for brake pad wear, perhaps?  It is normal for the
>level in the reservoir to get lower as the brake pads wear.  It shouldn't
>be drastic, though, and it shouldn't be all that quick.

Actually, if you are experiencing loss of braking efficiency and the level
is decreasing severalfold more rapidly than the front resevoir, you might 
want to unbolt the resevoir from the booster and see if the rear seal is
leaking.  Needless to say, brake fluid in a vacuum booster isn't such
a great thing either.  I hope for your sake that it is just normal wear
and tear.

			Joemama

----------
Posted by: immordino joseph jr 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 10:49:43 1994
Subject: Re: *really* small Wankel
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7646
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Anybody have a homebrew fuel formula for this little sucker?  I'm not
-> about to gunk it up with that Cox castor oil before getting some
-> pointers first...

 Diesels were much more common in Europe than in the USA.  If your local
hobby shop is clueless, try the library for a book called
"Aeromodelling" by RH Warring.  It's pretty old, but they may still be
able to get it on inter-library loan.  It went into long detail on model
Diesels.  If you have an RC club nearby one of the old timers might be
able to help you out.
                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 10:55:10 1994
Subject: Re: Twisted Wedge Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7647
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [Some later model dynos, such as the SuperFlow 901 have throttle
-> servos and can run a throttle program too.  With such a setup, one
-> can do anything on the dyno one can do on the track.  The computer
-> can simulate the car's inertia and drag losses and the throttle servo
-> can replicate throttle motion recorded, for example, from a throttle
-> position sensor in a race car.  The advantage is it can do it over
-> and over and over under exactly the same conditions each time.  JGD]

 True, but the difference between a plain dyno reading and an adjusted
load curve is the same as that between steady and cyclic flow.  In other
words, you're not in Kansas any more.  You've just turned a simple hp
figure into a shitload of data, which still doesn't mean anything
unless you know that (inventing some figures) 300 RPM/sec RPM increase
at 400 ft-lb load at 1.5 deg/ms throttle opening is good or bad.

 A track simulation is nice, but it doesn't necessarily give you any
more information than you had before.
                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 11:00:47 1994
Subject: Crane cams
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7648
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I was looking through my new '94 Crane catalog (thanks Skod!) and found
some interesting oddities.  Crane lists cams for Toyota, Volvo, and
Rover engines, but not for some fairly common applications:

'87-'93 Buick V6 - get real, there are LOTS of late Buick V6s out there

Ford SVO V6 - lots of those are being raced

Plymouth Street Hemi - lots of those on drag strips

 Those, and two pages more, are listed as "Special Domestic Engine
Applications" and you have to send them your old cam so they can regrind
it.  Big deal - if you need a cam for your Buick Straight-8 or Crosley
Cobra, practically any cam grinder can regrind any lobe you want onto
your old core.
                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 17:39:27 1994
Subject: Re: Harwood Fireberglass Hood
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7649
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I have a harwood race glass L-88 style hood on my 69 chevelle.
	It is VERY thin for its physical size. On cool days when you 
	lift it off, it makes crackling sounds. BUT it fit fairly well, 
	had a decent gel coat on it, and hasn't cracked yet (3.5 years 
	since I bought it.)
	I have a trunk deck from a place in florida called (I think)
	Unlimited Fiberglass (Fiberglass unlimited ?) Owner and main
	producers name is Jay Steelman. I'll have to 
	check at home. VERY NICE molding, well reinforced, priced NICE.
	AND IT FIT PERFECTLY!
	Its a small shop with limited later model stuff, mostly, and
	some older fiat stuff. The guy is usually at the Englishtown 
	flea market, and will bring things with him for you so you 
	can minimize shipping costs. 
	I just wish he would make a chevelle door. 

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 17:50:41 1994
Subject: AMC 904 Transmission
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7650
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have an 81 AMC with the 258 straight 6. The engine is completely
rebuilt and I wanted to install a TCI or B&M higher stall converter.
These are only listed for model years up to 1980, apparently the 904 - 81 and
later came with the lock up converter and the trans shaft had a
different number of splines?.

I can get one of the older model transmissions but was looking
for other suggestions.

Do the older trans have the same bolt pattern to hook to my engine?

-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
romansks@unvax.union.edu  |  Time flies like an arrow
                          |  Fruit flies like a banana
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: Steve Romanski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 18:02:47 1994
Subject: Horsepower Equations
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7651
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

   	Being the Engineer and gereral techno-geek that I am, I have
attempted to measure engine net horsepower by statistical methods.  These
equations are compilations of data from the seven or eight Car and Driver
back issues my wife hasn't yet found to throw away;  I chose data from
road tests of cars with 0 - 60 times of 7 sec. or less and 1/4 mile times
of around 14.5 sec.  The total number of data points was around 15, not
great, but my new subscription should start soon.  
	The E.T. equation is from the Feb. '93 issue of Super Chevy, ack,
and has a corresponding mph eq. in the same article.  These are not based
on statistics, as near as I can tell.  Rather, they are plots of the
minimum hp needed to move a given mass down the strip - they show the
power actually reaching the ground.  For example:  Mark Stielow's '69
Camaro (Car Craft Nov. '93)  turned a 12.8 e.t. (on Comp TA's) and from the
eq. it comes to about 320 hp, given a 3400 lb vehicle weight.  But,  after
talking to one of Stielow's co-drivers in One Lap, I found out the car was
pulling Callaway Vette's down the straights and they're rated at, what 400+
hp? 
The point:  if you have an accuarate reading of your vehicle weight and an
accurate 1/4 time slip, this eq. will show you the power you're getting to
the ground.


E.T.= (weight/horsepower)^(1/3)*5.825

mph.actual=(tire.width*aspect.ratio(%)*2*0.03937+wheel.diameter)*pi/
		(12*5280)*(60*rpm/(rear.gear*trans.gear))
I'd clean that up, but my wife's gonna pick me up in a few minutes...

0-60 time= 1.3714*(weight/power)^(0.5706)
mph in 1/4 mile=167.7727-28.0014*ln(weight/hp)
both of these are best fit lines thanks to Hewlett Packard 48sx

That's all.  I hope y'all find these ammusing if not helpful.

					later,
					Toen Starkweather
					Engineering Management
					University or Missouri - Rolla

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 18:13:23 1994
Subject: O2 sensors that can deal with race gas?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7652
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I was planning on putting an O2 sensor on my race car
as a quick rich/lean sanity check.  Will leaded race gas render
the sensor (which I plan on getting from a junkyard) useless?

	If so, will the sensors for sale in Summit (MSD, etc)
also have problems? 

Thanks,

--Ken

Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Lachman Technology, Inc., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(708) 505-9555 x341			much experience			 |
dye@lachman.com							archy	 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------+

[Yes and yes.  All of these things involve a platinum catalyst which will
be poisoned by the lead.  They will work awhile.  Don't pay the exhorbitant
prices from the aftermarket for these sensors.  Just go to your friendly
local auto parts store and buy their cheapest 3 wire sensor.  Two of the
wires are the heater and the third is the signal referenced to the sensor
shell.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: "Ken R. Dye" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 18:23:19 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy "Double Hump" Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7653
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com  writes:
> 
> I think to get any help with these heads, you'll need to provide
> the casting numbers.  This number can be found by pulling the
> valve cover, it's a six digit number (I think).  Without that, 
> it's anybody's guess as to what you actually have.
> 
> -kevin
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 	Hi All,
> > 	I have just completed a hot engine rebuild for my HUGE
> > '72 Suburban 4x4. I have "Double Hump" heads as designated by
> > the camel's back icon embossed on the sides. The problem is, I 
> > don't know the real significance of this nomenclature. Could 
> > one of you -way cool- chevy gurus fill me in on the details?
> > 			
> > 			Thanks, Jon
> > 
    Generally older chevys used one or two bumps and pointed(square) and 
    round. I'm doing this from memory- I think that two bumps meant high
    compression, one meant low. Round bumps meant large valves and square
    meant small.  Another way to verify good heads (unturbocharged- you
    dont want to turboch. H-compr. heads) is to look at the casting #'s
    under the valve covers. I've got a set of 461's (last 3 #'s), my bro
    ther has 292's I think. Had them ported, bolted them on a 350. It'll
    eat a 5.0 for breakfast-does pretty good on older Mopars to.
    Laterness
    Paul> > 
----------
Posted by: emory!cwis.unomaha.edu!durod (Paul L. Duran)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 21 18:34:49 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7654
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

My question is:  is their some reason you insist on using the quadrajunk?
Maybe I'm biased, but I've found Holley's or Edlebrock's to be much easier
to tune. My Holley does backfire through the top and the only known cure
is to not floor it before it has a chance to warm up.  More later.
					Toen Starkweather
					Engineering Management
					University of Missouri - Rolla

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 22 12:17:27 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7655
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> My question is:  is their some reason you insist on using the quadrajunk?
> Maybe I'm biased, but I've found Holley's or Edlebrock's to be much easier
> to tune. My Holley does backfire through the top and the only known cure
> is to not floor it before it has a chance to warm up.  More later.

   Well, I've had good luck in the past using Holley carbs on Edlebrock 
intakes.  But for this particular car, I was hoping to keep the stock setup.

Larry

----------
Posted by: Larry Estep 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 22 12:28:20 1994
Subject: Re: Harwood Fireberglass Hood
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7656
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 About what is the weight difference between a street grade (i.e. non-
expendable, expected to last under minor abuse) hood and a factory
steel hood? On the older cars the hood is very big and heavy. I
noticed some outfit actually had Buick GS replicas in 'glas but
I have no idea what the durability might be like... Suppose you
might be able to add on your own stiffener ridges, extra layers 
of fiberglas if you thought the tradeoff was there.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 22 12:55:04 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy "Double Hump" Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7657
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>     Generally older chevys used one or two bumps and pointed(square) and 
>     round. I'm doing this from memory- I think that two bumps meant high
>     compression, one meant low. Round bumps meant large valves and square
>     meant small.  Another way to verify good heads (unturbocharged- you
>     dont want to turboch. H-compr. heads) is to look at the casting #'s
>     under the valve covers. I've got a set of 461's (last 3 #'s), my bro
>     ther has 292's I think. Had them ported, bolted them on a 350. It'll
>     eat a 5.0 for breakfast-does pretty good on older Mopars to.
>     Laterness
>     Paul> > 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!cwis.unomaha.edu!durod (Paul L. Duran)

 My impression of the heads thing was that double hump meant larger intake
runner volume.  I may be wrong, but I'm pretty sure I read that somewhere.
					Toen Starkweather
					Engineering Management
					University of Missouri - Rolla

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 22 13:20:33 1994
Subject: Re: O2 sensors that can deal with race gas?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7658
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I was wondering how useful an O2 sensor would be in an alcohol
	burning car. I hear horror stories about running alcohol too lean
	and also about how big changes in pill sizes (injected) show
	little change, if any, in performance, to a point. On the lean
	side, you burn up pistons.

	Any ideas on the usefulness of O2 sensor and how to calibrate
	and indicate its output when used with methanol???

	Thanks.



--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 22 13:31:49 1994
Subject:      T5 parts and other questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7659
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm in the process of building a prototype of what I hope to build
a bunch of later. The car is a Westfield, a British heritage sports car
that I've just started selling in my business. I've decided to go with
a Quad 4 HO engine and have found a supplier of all the hardware
required to adapt the Quad 4 to a longitudinal installation. They are
very knowledgable and can provide the transmission as well. But,
being as this combination has never been put together before (that I
know of) I'd like some information on the T5's out of GM products.
Is the early GM T5 as bad as the late 80's Ford units? What are the ratio's
of the T5's out of a Camaro or S10 pickup? Does anyone have a name and
address where I can buy individual parts. I've also heard the shifter on
the Camaro T5 does not come out of the tailhousing at the 12 o'clock
position but more like 1 o'clock when viewed from the rear. I've heard I can
get a Ford tailhousing to bolt to a GM gearcase so that I'll have a GM input
shaft and a straight out the top shifter. Thanks in advance for any and all
help you can provide.
bob.bigelow@oit.gatech.edu

----------
Posted by: Bob Bigelow 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Feb 22 13:43:01 1994
Subject: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7660
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Has anyone used those intake manifold gaskets that have screens across the 
intake openings.  They are supposed to increase something like 15 HP by helping 
the fuel to stay atomized.

I just saw these in a Summit catalog.  Is this just snake oil??

I have to change the intake manifold gaskets on the '88 corvette, due to a 
coolant leak, and thought I would use these gaskets if they work.

Thanks
Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 00:54:12 1994
Subject: Re: Harwood Fireberglass Hood
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7661
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  
>  About what is the weight difference between a street grade (i.e. non-
> expendable, expected to last under minor abuse) hood and a factory
> steel hood? 

Steel has a density of approximately 7.8 gm/cc, fiberglass resin about 1.2 gm/cc
and the glass fiber 2.65 gm/cc.  To get the needed strength, most manufacturers
build a film thickness of glass and resin several times that of the steel panel.
Some companies use cloth layers with a minimum of resin (e.g. Hairy Glass)and 
others (Harwood) use chop guns with lots of resin and more film build. End 
result is that the typical weight savings for a street replacement hood with
mounting hardware built in is probably only about 40% (glass hood weight is 
about 60% of comparable steel panel). YMMV

> On the older cars the hood is very big and heavy. I
> noticed some outfit actually had Buick GS replicas in 'glas but
> I have no idea what the durability might be like... Suppose you
> might be able to add on your own stiffener ridges, extra layers 
> of fiberglas if you thought the tradeoff was there.

IN GENERAL: Problems with fiberglass tend to fall into the categories of stress 
cracking and panel deformation (especially in hot climates).  Nothing will 
prevent this over time.  If you buy fiberglass, be prepared to maintain it.  Allcompanies build in stiffening ribs anyway and extra ones added after the piece
is out of the mold may, in fact, cause more deformation.

> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)>  
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!halnet.com!vcook (Vic Cook 3068)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 01:03:39 1994
Subject: Re:  Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7662
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Rob says:

-> I just saw these in a Summit catalog.  Is this just snake oil??

  These "gaskets" sound like the magic wonder that they sold in 74-75
during the Energy Crisis.  They sold a gasket that went under the carb
that had 2 screen baskets ( for a 2 barrel ).  This was supposed to
ionize ( I think ) to make the fuel burn better.  I would suspect that
at some velocity the screens would cause enough turbulance to starve
the system.  This is just my guess but you further reduce the area of
the port.  I do know that they sell port restrictors for the Ford
4 barrel Cleveland heads because of the large port area.  

  I would tend to vote for snake oil though, but maybe if you added
duralube at the same time.. 8+)

----------
Posted by: emory!genrad.com!wdp (William D. Poudrier)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 01:14:06 1994
Subject: Re: Nitrous Oxide What does it do?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7663
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Re: pure oxygen in a gasoline-fueled ICM:
> [Dare I say it?  The venerable B&S lawnmower engine.  One of several
> times I literally blew the head off the block.  JGD]

That's right, anytime JGD comes around with a lawnmower,
"BPTD" - Be Prepared to Duck!"


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 10:51:48 1994
Subject: Re: T5 parts and other questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7664
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Messa
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
In-Reply-To: 
Organization: CS Dept, University of Texas at Austin
Cc: 
Bcc: 

>Is the early GM T5 as bad as the late 80's Ford units? 

Yes.  I have a 300+ horsepower '84 Z28 that munches T5's like they
were going out of style.  Typical parts that must be replaced on a regular
basis:
	input shaft
	3rd gear
	reverse gear (?why?)
	synchros

>What are the ratio's
>of the T5's out of a Camaro or S10 pickup? 

I have a Lotus spreadsheet that has some of the various ratios in late 70's
and early to mid 80's domestics...  There is some extraneous info in this,
but I am sure that you can figure out the right stuff...

Application                              lRPM @60   lRPM  @60   1st   RPM   2nd   3rd   4th   5th   1st   2nd   3rd   4th   5th   Type  Diff
=============================================================================================================================================
Tranmission database:
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
83-84 mustang 4cyl                      2.28  1260  3.05  1674  4.16  2329  3764  4874  4698  7000  3.98  2.14  1.49     1     1 4sp    2.98
82    mustang 4cyl                      2.28  1260  3.05  1674  4.16  2329  3764  4874  4698  7000  3.98  2.14  1.49     1     1 4sp    2.98
77-85 chevette                          2.42  1337  3.23  1578  3.92  2329  4032  4472  5072  7000  3.75  2.16  1.38  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.75
76    chevette, vega & monza 4          2.42  1337  3.23  1578  3.92  2329  4032  4472  5072  7000  3.75  2.16  1.38  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.75
80-81 citation                          2.57  1421  3.43  1833  3.69  1886  3867  4451  4573  7000  3.53  1.95  1.24  0.81  0.81 4sp    2.72
82-85 cav,cit,cele                      2.57  1421  3.43  2034  3.69  1700  3867  4451  4121  7000  3.53  1.95  1.24  0.73  0.73 4sp    2.80
82-85 cav,cit,cele                      2.57  1421  3.43  1833  3.69  1886  3867  4451  4573  7000  3.53  1.95  1.24  0.81  0.81 4sp    2.72
78    monza 4, monte v6                 2.60  1433  3.46  1472  3.65  2329  4960  4685  4217  7000  3.50  2.48  1.66  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.50
82-83 camaro 4,v6                       2.60  1433  3.46  1472  3.65  2329  4960  4685  4217  7000  3.50  2.48  1.66  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.50
79    monza 4,v6                        2.60  1433  3.46  1472  3.65  2329  4960  4685  4217  7000  3.50  2.48  1.66  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.50
80    monza                             2.60  1433  3.46  1472  3.65  2329  4960  4685  4217  7000  3.50  2.48  1.66  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.50
85    camaro 4cyl                       2.60  1433  3.46  1472  3.65  2329  4960  4685  4217  7000  3.50  2.48  1.66  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.50
81-82 camaro v8                         2.66  1466  3.55  1439  3.57  2329  4667  4452  4828  7000  3.42  2.28  1.45  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.42
80    camaro,malibu 350                 2.66  1466  3.55  1439  3.57  2329  4667  4452  4828  7000  3.42  2.28  1.45  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.42
82-84 citation ho v6                    2.75  1515  3.66  1719  3.46  1886  4124  4451  4573  7000  3.31  1.95  1.24  0.81  0.81 4sp    2.50
85    citation v6                       2.75  1515  3.66  1547  3.46  2096  4124  4451  5081  7000  3.31  1.95  1.24  0.90  0.90 4sp    2.41
77    vega, monza 4                     2.92  1613  3.90  1308  3.25  2329  4952  4677  4762  7000  3.11  2.20  1.47  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.11
76    monza v8, cosworth                2.92  1613  3.90  1308  3.25  2329  4952  4677  4762  7000  3.11  2.20  1.47  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.11
79    malibu 267                        2.92  1613  3.90  1308  3.25  2329  4952  4677  4762  7000  3.11  2.20  1.47  1.00  1.00 4sp    2.11
82-83 mustang v8                        2.96  1634  3.95  1845  3.21  1630  3922  4070  4900  7000  3.07  1.72     1   0.7   0.7 4sp    2.37
80-81 corvette                          3.15  1741  4.21  1212  3.01  2329  4642  4874  5263  7000  2.88  1.91  1.33  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.88
82    camaro v8 tbi                     3.15  1741  4.21  1212  3.01  2329  4642  4874  5263  7000  2.88  1.91  1.33  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.88
78    nova & cam v8,chevette,monza,monte3.19  1760  4.25  1199  2.98  2329  4961  4678  5185  7000  2.85  2.02  1.35  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.85
78-79 corvette                          3.19  1760  4.25  1199  2.98  2329  4961  4678  5185  7000  2.85  2.02  1.35  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.85
76    nova & cam 350                    3.19  1760  4.25  1199  2.98  2329  4961  4678  5185  7000  2.85  2.02  1.35  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.85
79    monza,cam,nova,monte              3.19  1760  4.25  1199  2.98  2329  4961  4678  5185  7000  2.85  2.02  1.35  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.85
77    monza v8, nova & cam 350          3.19  1760  4.25  1199  2.98  2329  4961  4678  5185  7000  2.85  2.02  1.35  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.85
80    camaro,malibu 305                 3.19  1760  4.25  1199  2.98  2329  4961  4678  5185  7000  2.85  2.02  1.35  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.85
76-77 corvette                          3.44  1900  4.59  1111  2.76  2329  4640  5360  5224  7000  2.64  1.75  1.34  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.64
78-79 camaro z28                        3.44  1900  4.59  1111  2.76  2329  4640  5360  5224  7000  2.64  1.75  1.34  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.64
76    corvette                          3.74  2064  4.99  1022  2.54  2329  4638  5348  5691  7000  2.43  1.61  1.23  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.43
77-79 corvette                          3.74  2064  4.99  1022  2.54  2329  4638  5348  5691  7000  2.43  1.61  1.23  1.00  1.00 4sp    1.43
84-86 corvette                          3.15  1741  4.21  1808  3.01  1560  4642  4874  4684  5270  2.88  1.91  1.33  0.89  0.67 4*2sp  2.21
81    mustang                           2.24  1238  2.99  2078  4.23  1910  4200  4263  4730  5740  4.05  2.43  1.48  1.00  0.82 5sp    3.23
83-84 mustang turbo                     2.25  1244  3.01  1971  4.21  2003  4117  4430  4667  6020  4.03  2.37  1.50  1.00  0.86 5sp    3.17
83    cavalier                          2.32  1283  3.10  2193  4.08  1747  3652  4564  4842  5707  3.91  2.04  1.33  0.92  0.75 5sp    3.16
84    cavalier                          2.32  1283  3.10  2223  4.08  1723  3849  4330  4842  5630  3.91  2.15  1.33  0.92  0.74 5sp    3.17
84-85 camaro 4                          2.42  1334  3.22  1839  3.93  2003  4059  4560  4930  6020  3.76  2.18  1.42  1.00  0.86 5sp    2.90
83    mustang turbo                     2.42  1334  3.22  1839  3.93  2003  4059  4367  5147  6020  3.76  2.18  1.36  1.00  0.86 5sp    2.90
84-85 chevette                          2.42  1334  3.22  1839  3.93  2003  4059  4367  5147  6020  3.76  2.18  1.36  1.00  0.86 5sp    2.90
85    cavalier                          2.44  1345  3.25  2120  3.89  1723  4035  4330  4842  5630  3.73  2.15  1.33  0.92  0.74 5sp    2.99
81    mustang turbo                     2.44  1348  3.26  2059  3.88  1770  4196  4646  4730  5320  3.72  2.23  1.48  1.00  0.76 5sp    2.96
82-83 mustang                           2.44  1348  3.26  2059  3.88  1770  4196  4646  4730  5320  3.72  2.23  1.48  1.00  0.76 5sp    2.96
85    mustang svo turbo                 2.60  1433  3.46  1963  3.65  1747  4280  4449  5147  5250  3.50  2.14  1.36  1.00  0.75 5sp    2.75
83    camaro 4,v6                       2.60  1433  3.46  1888  3.65  1816  4280  4449  5147  5460  3.50  2.14  1.36  1.00  0.78 5sp    2.72
84-85 camaro v6                         2.60  1433  3.46  1888  3.65  1816  4280  4449  5147  5460  3.50  2.14  1.36  1.00  0.78 5sp    2.72
78    monza v6                          2.67  1475  3.57  1788  3.55  1863  4282  4678  5036  5600  3.40  2.08  1.39  1.00  0.80 5sp    2.60
77    vega, monza 4                     2.67  1475  3.57  1788  3.55  1863  4282  4678  5036  5600  3.40  2.08  1.39  1.00  0.80 5sp    2.60
79    monza                             2.67  1475  3.57  1788  3.55  1863  4282  4678  5036  5600  3.40  2.08  1.39  1.00  0.80 5sp    2.60
85    mustang v8                        2.71  1497  3.62  2072  3.50  1584  4033  4679  5426  4760  3.35  1.93  1.29  1.00  0.68 5sp    2.67
76    vega, monza                       2.93  1618  3.91  1630  3.24  1863  4268  4704  5512  5600  3.10  1.89  1.27  1.00  0.80 5sp    2.30
84    mustang v8                        3.08  1700  4.11  1970  3.08  1467  4603  4835  5224  4410  2.95  1.94  1.34  1.00  0.63 5sp    2.32
83    mustang v8                        3.08  1700  4.11  1700  3.08  1700  4603  4835  5224  5110  2.95  1.94  1.34  1.00  0.73 5sp    2.22
83-85 camaro v8                         3.08  1700  4.11  1700  3.08  1700  4603  4835  5224  5110  2.95  1.94  1.34  1.00  0.73 5sp    2.22
83-85 camaro,capr,imp                   2.97  1639  3.96  1839  3.19  1630  3729  4294  4900  7000  3.06  1.63  1.00  0.70  0.70 aod    2.36
82    caprice,imp v6                    2.97  1639  3.96  1839  3.19  1630  3729  4294  4900  7000  3.06  1.63  1.00  0.70  0.70 aod    2.36
82-86 corvette                          2.97  1639  3.96  1839  3.19  1630  3729  4294  4900  7000  3.06  1.63  1.00  0.70  0.70 aod    2.36
86    camaro/caprice                    2.97  1639  3.96  1839  3.19  1630  3729  4294  4900  7000  3.06  1.63  1.00  0.70  0.70 aod    2.36
86    celebrity                         3.11  1717  4.15  1755  3.05  1630  3740  4487  4900  7000  2.92  1.56  1.00  0.70  0.70 aod    2.22
85    celebrity                         3.11  1717  4.15  1755  3.05  1630  3764  4459  4900  7000  2.92  1.57  1.00  0.70  0.70 aod    2.22
82    caprice,imp                       3.32  1830  4.43  1720  2.86  1560  4011  4459  4690  7000  2.74  1.57  1.00  0.67  0.67 aod    2.07
84    imp,caprice                       3.32  1830  4.43  1720  2.86  1560  4011  4459  4690  7000  2.74  1.57  1.00  0.67  0.67 aod    2.07
86    monte carlo                       3.32  1830  4.43  1720  2.86  1560  4011  4459  4690  7000  2.74  1.57  1.00  0.67  0.67 aod    2.07
85    monte carlo                       3.32  1830  4.43  1720  2.86  1560  4011  4459  4690  7000  2.74  1.57  1.00  0.67  0.67 aod    2.07
=============================================================================================================================================

>the Camaro T5 does not come out of the tailhousing at the 12 o'clock
>position but more like 1 o'clock when viewed from the rear. 

Yes, it is angled somewhat.  The tranny actually sits at an angle to the
engine, so the shifter comes out of the floorboard straight.

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 11:06:47 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7665
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> My question is:  is their some reason you insist on using the
-> quadrajunk? Maybe I'm biased, but I've found Holley's or Edlebrock's
-> to be much easier to tune.

 The Holley is essentially untuneable - a screw for idle, a fixed jet
for wide open, and an expensive metering block for normal driving.  If
it weren't for the big accelerator pump shot the Holley would be barely
driveable.

 The Quadrajet is virtually identical to the Carter ThermoQuad, which in
turn is a spreadbore AFB.  All three are load-sensitive devices with
proper vacuum-operated metering rods.

 The Q-Jet's main problem of old was that it had basically no support-
you couldn't just go down and get jets and needles for them like an AFB.
Now that Edelbrock is making new ones (actually, they're OEM'd from
Weber) they're also stocking the tuning parts needed to set them up
properly.

 The Quadrajet is a very flexible carb, and has been put on everything
from the Pontiac OHC six to the Buick turbo V6 to every one of GM's big
blocks, including the 500 Cadillac.  Ford even used it for a while, and
so did Mercedes, made under license to Solex.
                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 11:18:20 1994
Subject: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7666
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Has anyone used those intake manifold gaskets that have screens
-> across the intake openings.  They are supposed to increase something
-> like 15 HP by helping the fuel to stay atomized.
->
-> I just saw these in a Summit catalog.  Is this just snake oil??

 I have a Hot Rod Engine Annual somewhere with a dyno test of them; they
claimed they worked.  On the other hand I have an old Popular Science
with an EPA test of a very similar product, and the EPA said it was BS.
Personally, I'd guess they might help the idle and low end on an engine
that was overcammed and had low intake velocity, but if you're built to
that point, you probably don't *care* about idle quality.


-> I have to change the intake manifold gaskets on the '88 corvette, due
-> to a coolant leak, and thought I would use these gaskets if they
-> work.

 Considering the water-drooling problems the late Corvettes have, I'd
seriously consider buying the new, uprated gaskets from Chevrolet, or at
the very least a premium name-brand gasket.
                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 12:15:35 1994
Subject: Clifford Performance Products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7667
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Does anybody have an experience with Clifford Engineering? I am specifically 
curious about their parts for the Ford 200 and 300 ci I-6 engines, and the
Jeep/AMC 258 ci I-6. Are they worth it, do they provide the power they
advertise, or would it be better to go with a v-8? 

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 12:26:51 1994
Subject: '67 Mustang Engine Idea
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7668
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have the opportunity to get a '67 Mustang Fastback sans engine and tranny
for free. Currently, the car is in a state of COMPLETE disassembly. My
question is not whether or not to go for it (that depends on the person I
would get it from). What I am wondering is if the 300 ci 6-cyl Ford engine
will fit with either some sort of stock mounts, or a purchaseable mounting
kit. Right now, that is what my father (the financier of the project) would
like to do. Any ideas? 

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 12:36:47 1994
Subject: '75 Caddy Eldorado
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7669
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

It looks as though our family may be purchasing a '75 Caddilac Eldorado. My
brother and I complained about the lack of punch from the 500, and were
wondering about sources for engine parts for this beast. Does anybody have
any sources, and have you any other reccomendations? 

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 16:45:42 1994
Subject: re:67 Mustang engine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7670
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have an article on putting a 300 ci ford into a 67 mustang.
It used the old 240 Passenger car block with the rest of the internals 
being out of a 300 (used only in trucks)  
The stock 300 will not fit... you have to have the passenger car block
for the mounts... or you can make your own mounts.

E-mail me if interested in the article.

Mark
mrshirle@mtu.edu


----------
Posted by: emory!mtu.edu!mrshirle (MARK R. SHIRLEY)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 16:54:46 1994
Subject: Re:  Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7671
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 I saw a Car Cruft review on these a few years back. Oooh, better fuel 
atomization. Ahhh, a whopping 5 lb-ft of torque increase at low RPM.
Uhhh, bummer about the top end air flow. But of course you should buy
them anyway 'cuz they're just so darn neat.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 17:04:03 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7672
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 I got to go to class now, but if you're on later, I'll be more than happy
to tell you the ease of tuning a Holley.  Lack of parts does not mean lack
of tuning ability.
	Question:  When was the last time you saw a pair of quadrajets
sitting on top of a blower?
					Later,
					Toen Starkweather
					strkwthr@umr.edu

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 17:13:30 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7673
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
> -> I have to change the intake manifold gaskets on the '88 corvette, due
> -> to a coolant leak, and thought I would use these gaskets if they
> -> work.
>  Considering the water-drooling problems the late Corvettes have, I'd
> seriously consider buying the new, uprated gaskets from Chevrolet, or at
> the very least a premium name-brand gasket.

What is the net.concensus for the use of sealant on SBC intake gaskets?
What type, where, and how much?  I ususlly run a thin bead of permatex around
each water port and around the lower half of each intake port.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 17:26:37 1994
Subject: ADMIN: Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7674
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

For only about the second or third time ever, I just censored a 
message to the list that contained an ad hominim toward another
subscriber.  I really, really hate having to do this and since 
the sender is new to the list, I suspect he may not have seen
the list's charter.  The list has grown significantly in the past
few weeks so new members may not have seen the charter that gets
automatically posted to the list twice a month.  The charter
follows.

We started this list close to 4 years ago now to have a forum for
discussing high performance and hotrodding WITHOUT all the crap
that goes on in rec.autos.* and with a collegial environment 
that encourages even shy people to post without fear of being blasted
by the experts or cheap shooters.

My laid-back philosophy on moderating this list is to let just about
anything go other than personal invectives and name calling until
someone complaines, even when that something is somewhat off-charter.
I figure that this technique is a good feedback control of me by
you folks. (Oops, will some minority group get on me for saying 
"You folks"? :-)  Also please note that the charter is a dynamic document,
open to change at any time so if you'd like to see a change in scope,
start a discussion.

73 John
-------------------------------------------------

                        Hotrod List Charter

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
your site.  Example:  If you are at foo@bar.edu,

Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
try to extract a path from your mail header.  If it does not  work, this
slightly less dumb mail manager (me) will not intervene.  Include a path.

To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com with the 
following subject line:

Subject: drop foo@bar.edu

The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
subscribe with.

To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dixie.com.  Please
include  a meaningful subject line.  Inquiries, and other administrivia should 
be addressed to jgd@dixie.com.   

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
group at your site.  In order to ensure your post is properly returned
to the list, be sure to mark alt.hotrod moderated and point the mailfile
back to hotrod@dixie.com.

If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
to the list.  The list membership is approaching 300 which makes things,
ummm, interesting here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  See below for the archive site.

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of bounced
messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I must 
remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a 
short time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a
day of cushion.  The volume of messages on the list is seldom less
than 10 messages a day even on the weekend so if you don't get 
messages for a day, you know you're off the list.  Simply send a new
subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

ece.rutgers.edu archives the hotrod and the z-car mailing lists.  This is
available only via anonymous ftp.  Jialin Li is the contact.  
jialin@ece.rutgers.edu

Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
the university does not allow incoming anonymous ftp so new GIFs must
be mailed to Milam, met@sunset.cse.nau.edu.  

These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I maintain a mail file server on dixie.com.  This is primarily to support
articles in my magazine, Performance Engineering (TM) but it is also
useful to hotrod list members. Software for articles and other car-related
files are available.  To get a directory, mail to 

	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

address foo@bar.com                     <<-- optional.  Where you want it sent
Index

to get a file,

send file_name

If you get empty messages in return, that means the very sorry server
software I'm now using has crashed.  Send another request.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 17:38:35 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7675
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I think i saw a report in Super Chevy magazine a couple years back on
these gaskets.  I think the report said that when you have fuel running
down the floor of the manifold, the screen will reintroduce the fuel
into the airstream.  They mentioned some torque gains, and the expected
loss came in after 5000 or 6000RPM.  I'll try to look it up again.

-kevin

> 
> Has anyone used those intake manifold gaskets that have screens across the 
> intake openings.  They are supposed to increase something like 15 HP by helping 

[I kinda doubt that Super Chevy's explaination has much to do with it but
the screen WOULD break up suspended globs of fuel still in the air stream.
What effect that has is kinda dubious too.  Let me point out an important
detail about SuperFlow dynomometers that you should be aware of when 
evaluating small HP or torque change claims in magazines.  The SuperFlow,
the overwhelmingly most common one in use today, uses an 8 bit A/D 
converter on both the torque and the RPM channels (RPM is converted in
a tach chip to voltage.  The full scale range of the torque channel is
800 ft-lbs.  That means the minimum change in torque possible to 
detect is 800/256 = 3.1 ft-lbs.  But since any digitizing device has
an uncertainty of +-1 digit, the true uncertainty is 6.2 ft-lbs.
This means that a change of 3.1 ft-lbs or less could never be detected
and that a change of 6.2 ft-lbs or less may be meaningless because
it could be attributed to the A/D's LSB uncertainty.  At 8000 RPM,
the effect on HP can be evaluated thus:  6.2 * 8000 / 5252 = 9.4 hp.
So at 8000 rpm, any indicated change in HP smaller than 9.4 hp is probably
meaningless.  SuperFlow prints out the results to two decimal places
and most magazine people (or tuners, for that matter) don't know enough
about how the dyno works to understand why this is garbage.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 17:50:00 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7676
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


#Does anybody have an experience with Clifford Engineering? I am specifically 
#curious about their parts for the Ford 200 and 300 ci I-6 engines, and the
#Jeep/AMC 258 ci I-6. Are they worth it, do they provide the power they
#advertise, or would it be better to go with a v-8? 
#
#George
#georgehowell@delphi.com

We used some of their stuff for a CJ-7 with an I-6. Products are O.K...

If you are looking for a lot of *HP* from an I-6 be forwarned.. High rev's
(at least on an amc motor) over 6K will send the timing chain out through the
case. You can't get a GOOD timing chain for an AMC I-6... 

I'd go with the V-8.

-dan a.
dhoward@stratus.com

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 18:00:13 1994
Subject: Need info
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7677
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I thought someone here will know!
	(So I reposted here)
tom root

> Date:     Wed, 23 Feb 94 9:13:17 EST
> From: Peter Fazio (WTD/WCD) 
> 
>      Hi guys,
> 
> 
> If you think others won't be
> interested please respond to me by private e-mail.  Thanks for your
> indulgence.  Now, the question.  Do any of you folks remember an ATV
> known as the AMPHICAT, a 6X6 2 seater you steer w/ sticks like a 'dozer.
> I think they were around in the '70s .  The beastie was 6 wheel drive,
> amphibious and shaped like a square bathtub !  I'm looking at one that
> is for sale around here and was just wondering about how useful/reliable/
> fun/pain in the neck they were.  All I know so far is that it has a
> Sachs 2 stroke 1 cyl. about 270 cc (?), it uses some kind of gearbox to
> split power to each side for steering and braking.  I guess what I'm 
> asking is for any stories/knowledge/heresay about these critters to
> help me decide if it will be a fun toy to play with in the mud, snow,
> sand etc.  I'll be using it for when the conditions are just too slippery
> for our dirtbikes ie. ice, major mud, deep snow, ice, DEEP snow, ICE, ICE,
> ICE....can you tell that I haven't been able to ride my dirt bike enough
> because of the lovely winter weather we're having in the east...aaarghhh !!!
>   So any help/info will be greatly appreciated.  
> 
> 
>                                                 Pete
> 
>                                                 B-100  slanty
>                                                 B-350  360 4bbl
> 
> 
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 18:54:03 1994
Subject: Chevy chamber size
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7678
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Can somebody email me the volume of Chevy head casting 3917291 H127?
I suspect 64 cc, but it may be 67 cc.  Thanks.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 20:45:55 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7679
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm really confused.  Are you the one with the original question?  I got a
note telling me that Holley's are junk and untuneable - the ramblings of
an idiot.  If you want to keep the stock setup, that's cool and
understandable.  	
					Later,
					Toen

>    Well, I've had good luck in the past using Holley carbs on Edlebrock 
> intakes.  But for this particular car, I was hoping to keep the stock setup.
> 
> Larry
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: Larry Estep 
----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Feb 23 20:56:18 1994
Subject: Flywheel balancing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7680
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	I'm putting together a 350.  The rotating assembly was not balanced,
as I do not intend to run above 6000.  I had the flywheel ground and was 
wondering would there be justification to having the flywheel balanced (if
this is even done).  The reason I'm asking is because it seems that it would
go out of balance over the years, but I didn't see anything in "How to
Hotrod Your Small Block Chevy" about it.  Thanks.

				Joe Kelly

----------
Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 10:53:06 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Produ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7681
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>>If you are looking for a lot of *HP* from an I-6 be forwarned.. High rev's
(at least on an amc motor) over 6K will send the timing chain out through
the case. You can't get a GOOD timing chain for an AMC I-6... 


I'd go with the V-8.<<

So would I, if I had the $$$.

Which product or combination of products did you use on your Jeep?

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 11:02:41 1994
Subject: non-power disks?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7682
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

greetings:
  got another question for the net.wisdom here collected...
  i've been looking at putting disks on the front end of my 69 nova,
and had considered going with a rally-style dual master (tandem?, with
balancer bar...).  if i get a sufficiently large master for the disks,
do i still need power boost?  perhaps i've never had a set of 'good'
(quality) boosted brakes, but all the power brake setups i've driven
have been uncomfortably mushy...
  all clues & pointers gratefully accepted (hints on spelling to /dev/null)

later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 11:32:41 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7683
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
>  I got to go to class now, but if you're on later, I'll be more than happy
> to tell you the ease of tuning a Holley.  Lack of parts does not mean lack
> of tuning ability.

Holley's are easy to tune because they are not very tuneable.  You
basically have three points you can tune for, and thats it.
Moot point in most cases since the average Joe doesn't even tune
those properly.

> 	Question:  When was the last time you saw a pair of quadrajets
> sitting on top of a blower?

I don't think I've ever seen a blower with spread-bore inlets.

-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 16:42:19 1994
Subject: Pleasanton Swap Meet 2/27
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7684
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

First of the season - Pleasanton Swap meet this Sunday 2/27

Bernal Rd off I-680

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 16:52:23 1994
Subject: Re: AMC 904 Transmission
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7685
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Steve Romanski  writes:
>I have an 81 AMC with the 258 straight 6.
[]
>Do the older trans have the same bolt pattern to hook to my engine?

-all- amc engines since '72 [i don't count the audi or iron puke 4s or
the gm 2.8l v6, or the chrysler 318 in the cherokee] have the same
bellhousing bolt pattern.

andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 17:02:22 1994
Subject: cat converter clogged?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7686
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

greetings:
  i'm attempting to determine why my car is slowly getting slower and 
slower.  one thought is the cattle converter.  the car has 126k miles
(about 50k on this converter), and the motor is using some oil.  also
the carb was running *real* rich for about 2000 miles (guess, could
have been more).  these might contribute to a clogging, but i can't
think of a good/simple way of determining if it's working properly
(as far as flow/backpressure).  clues cheerfully accepted!

later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 17:13:19 1994
Subject: Re: Flywheel balancing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7687
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 	I'm putting together a 350.  The rotating assembly was not balanced,
> as I do not intend to run above 6000.
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
>  

I'm just curious why you didn't have the assembly balanced?  I know small
blocks are good to as high as 7200 rpm with a stock short block (dirt
track racer who was either too dumb to know what he couldn't do or much
smarter than I), but it seems to me that having everything at least
statically balanced would save much wear on bearings and such plus give
you the option of increasing your power band later.  This is my opinion
and obviously there was some other considerations involved ie. money...
I'm going to be building a small block myself in the next year or so and
would appreciate any info on what is necessary and what isn't.

					Thanks,
					Toen Starkweather
					Engineering Management
					University of Missouri-Rolla

wouldn't you love to have the dohc heads in the back of the How to Hot-rod
book?

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 17:24:39 1994
Subject: Re: T5 parts and other questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7688
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Messa
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
In-Reply-To: 
Organization: The World Public Access UNIX, Brookline, MA
Cc: 
Bcc: 

In article  you write:
[]

which late '80s ford units?  the 'world class' units on mustang gts
are very good and quite strong.
you can get an even stronger version from ford motorsports.

a comparable chevy version is used on v8 camaros/firebirds.

>                                                      
>Is the early GM T5 as bad as the late 80's Ford units? What are the ratio's
>of the T5's out of a Camaro or S10 pickup?

the pony-car v8 versions have a 2.95:1 or 3.36:1 first; all the others
are wider, some as low as 4.09:1.

>                                           Does anyone have a name and
>address where I can buy individual parts.

have you tried the dealer's parts department?

>                                          I've also heard the shifter on
>the Camaro T5 does not come out of the tailhousing at the 12 o'clock
>position but more like 1 o'clock when viewed from the rear. I've heard I can
>get a Ford tailhousing to bolt to a GM gearcase so that I'll have a GM input
>shaft and a straight out the top shifter.
>help you can provide.

you might need the ford mainshaft to go with the ford tailshaft
housing.

the chevy box is designed to be installed twisted [18 deg. comes to
mind...] and i don't know if it would take to being installed
'straight up'; all the conversions i've read about have used the
camaro bellhousing along with the tranny.

good luck!

andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 17:34:51 1994
Subject: Re:  non-power disks?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7689
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Non-power disks are a possiblilty.  I am intending to put such a setup
on my '64 Chevelle after I get it rolling again. Global West makes kit
to put 12" GM brakes on just about anything GM, and one can get then
with manual ( no-power ) setups.  I'll have a Lincoln disk setup in 
the rear, and an adjustable proportioning valve, too.

Not cheap, but I intend to do some 150-0 mph stops sometime next year, and
I do not relish the though of brake fade.

( Got the "Crate Motor" yesterday at lunch -- no !@#$@# pullys!  The
LT1 and ZR1 crate motors come with pullys, but cost a few grand more.
Tranny this Saturday. )

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 17:45:41 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7690
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

George Howell  wrote:
>Does anybody have an experience with Clifford Engineering? I am specifically 
>curious about their parts for the Ford 200 and 300 ci I-6 engines, and the
>Jeep/AMC 258 ci I-6. Are they worth it, do they provide the power they
>advertise, or would it be better to go with a v-8? 


i haven't dealt with them personally, but they've been around a LOOONG
time and have by far the most complete line of straight-6 speed stuff,
and i don't think they'd still be here if they didn't deliver the
goods.

i've never heard anything bad against them either.

andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 17:54:09 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7691
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dan Howard  wrote:
>If you are looking for a lot of *HP* from an I-6 be forwarned.. High rev's
>(at least on an amc motor) over 6K will send the timing chain out through the
>case. You can't get a GOOD timing chain for an AMC I-6... 

until recently, cloyes had a true roller set for the amc 6...

chrysler performance has a gear drive [for $$$, i'm sure].

i've heard that the jeep racing team is getting ~370hp out of their
amc 6es, but not how much those engines cost.

andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 18:02:48 1994
Subject: Amphicat
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7692
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Tom Root asks:
> If you think others won't be
> interested please respond to me by private e-mail.  Thanks for your
> indulgence.  Now, the question.  Do any of you folks remember an ATV
> known as the AMPHICAT, a 6X6 2 seater you steer w/ sticks like a 'dozer.
> I think they were around in the '70s .  The beastie was 6 wheel drive,
> amphibious and shaped like a square bathtub !

I knew a fellow who, in the early 70's, had something that answers
to this description.  He was rather unhappy with it because when
he hit a ridge in the dirt at good speed one of the axle shafts
bent and he had to drive the thing back to his camp at minimum
speed going whump-whump-whump all the way.  It needed extensive repairs.

Maybe the one you are looking at has better axles.

Bib Hale         hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!tesla.is!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 18:08:53 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Produ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7693
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>>If you are looking for a lot of *HP* from an I-6 be forwarned.. High rev's
(at least on an amc motor) over 6K will send the timing chain out through
the case. You can't get a GOOD timing chain for an AMC I-6... 

I'd go with the V-8.<<

So would I, if I had the $$$.

Which product or combination of products did you use on your Jeep?

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

The AMC I-6 has Clifford's 4-BBL manifold and headers (3 into 1, so it has dual 
exhaust. ) We had Crane grind a "special" cam for this combination. We used
a chevy 10.5 to one piston and cut reliefs for the valves. 

We went through 3 Cyl. heads before we had all of the problems with valve lift
(kept snapping rocker studs off) corrected. Once we repaired that problem,
we started destroying timing chains every time we used the vehicle real
hard in the woods.

-dan a.

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 18:13:26 1994
Subject: Flywheel balancing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7694
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I'm putting together a 350.  The rotating assembly was not balanced,
-> as I do not intend to run above 6000.  I had the flywheel ground and
-> was wondering would there be justification to having the flywheel
-> balanced

 I wouldn't worry about it.  If the 350 is a pre'86 Chevy the flywheel
is neutral balanced anyway.  If it's a late Chevy or other GM engine,
with a counterweight on the flywheel, resurfacing won't change the
balance factor, as the counterweight is on the side opposite the clutch.
                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 18:18:31 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7695
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 
> #Does anybody have an experience with Clifford Engineering? I am specifically 
> #curious about their parts for the Ford 200 and 300 ci I-6 engines, and the
> #Jeep/AMC 258 ci I-6. Are they worth it, do they provide the power they
> #advertise, or would it be better to go with a v-8? 
> #
> #George
> #georgehowell@delphi.com
> 
I have had really good success with their headers for the 258 I've got about
40,000 miles on them and just had the engine rebuilt. I recently had
the engine completely rebuilt and am having a lot of fun drag racing the
AMC Spirit. The holly 390 and offenhauser manifold complement the headers 
nicely. I'ts not a V8 but their easy to work on and parts are available
if you look for them.


-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
romansks@unvax.union.edu  |  Time flies like an arrow
                          |  Fruit flies like a banana
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: Steve Romanski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 18:25:02 1994
Subject: non-power disks?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7696
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> balancer bar...).  if i get a sufficiently large master for the
-> disks, do i still need power boost?  perhaps i've never had a set of

 The larger the master cylinder, the harder the brakes will be to push,
but the less pedal pressure you need.  The average GM uses a 1 inch
master cylinder, going up to 1-1/8 on some big cars and all the way down
to 3/4 on the Vega.  The smaller diameter cylinder will make the pedal
easier at the expense of more travel.
                                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Feb 24 18:28:42 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7697
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> >    Question:  When was the last time you saw a pair of quadrajets >
-> sitting on top of a blower?

> I don't think I've ever seen a blower with spread-bore inlets.

 B&M makes them with 1*spreadbore flanges.
                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 11:46:30 1994
Subject: Re: cat converter clogged?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7698
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> the carb was running *real* rich for about 2000 miles (guess, could
> have been more).  these might contribute to a clogging, but i can't
> think of a good/simple way of determining if it's working properly
> (as far as flow/backpressure).  clues cheerfully accepted!

> Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)

	Running ritch is the easiest way to melt your cat.  If you take it
to any good mufler shop they'll check it for you by drilling a whole in
front of and behind the convertor and sticking a presure gague like you
use on your tires with a needle like you use to inflate a basketball with
in the hole.  If there is a bigg presure difrence when the car is reved up
then the convertor is bad.  Another way to tell is to hit it with your
fist and see if you here anything rattle. (warning those things are hot!
my boss never did rember that even though he releanred it twice a day.)
Both of those are easy to do your self but not owrth it just watch the
guys at the shop do it for you.

Henry

----------
Posted by: emory!acme.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 11:57:48 1994
Subject: Clifford: 6=8=$$$$
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7699
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I spent a considerable amount of money and effort trying to make my '67
Nova with a 250 Chevy go fast.  Mods included: Clifford headers, Clifford
manifold (port matched) with a small Holley, 3/4 Crower cam, mildly ported
and milled heads giving a 9.2:1 CR, MSD, Powerglide with shift kit into a
3.50:1 rearend.  The Holley was difficult to get working - I changed the
accelerator pump cam and shooters and put in a stiffer secondary spring.
Result: Low 16's at the drag strip, which probably means less than 200 HP.
I'm not saying these parts don't work, because a basically stock inline 6
will run around 18-19 second ETs. But in the long run, I think it's
cheaper and easier to put in a (stock) V8. 



----------
Posted by: Mike Hasselbeck 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:07:59 1994
Subject: Re: Flywheel balancing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7700
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 	I'm putting together a 350.  The rotating assembly was not balanced,
> as I do not intend to run above 6000.
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
>  

>I'm just curious why you didn't have the assembly balanced?  I know small
>blocks are good to as high as 7200 rpm with a stock short block (dirt
>track racer who was either too dumb to know what he couldn't do or much
>smarter than I), but it seems to me that having everything at least
>statically balanced would save much wear on bearings and such plus give
>you the option of increasing your power band later.  This is my opinion
>and obviously there was some other considerations involved ie. money...
>I'm going to be building a small block myself in the next year or so and
>would appreciate any info on what is necessary and what isn't.

	I talked to a lot of people before I rebuilt the motor and found, from
most, that if you're not running circle track or over 6000, balancing isn't
necessary to obtain decent performance.  The motor is (#'s matching) going in a '69 Vette.  I don't plan to get on it all the time, but want to take it to
the track sometimes.  At the same time I want it streetable.

 	With this motor I want to be somewhat conservative, yet still enjoy the
performance.  As I said before I don't plan to run above 6000, so I put in a 
Competition Cams 280 (230 @ .050) hydraulic with an Edelbrock Performer (good 
to 5500).  It's got 2.02 iron heads (64 cc) and TRW 10:1 pistons.  Right now it has 3.36 gears, but I plan to move down to 3.70's.  Does anyone think this couldbe 12 sec. material? 

	If you're looking to build a motor in the future, I think you should
definitely decide on an rpm range and a price range.  Also, if you can find a
reputable street/machine shop to talk to (and patronize) during the build, do
it.  It's sometimes worth spending a little more money from them rather than
from the warehouses in exchange for priceless advice.

				Joe Kelly

----------
Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:14:44 1994
Subject: Re: Amphicat
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7701
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

That "Amphicat" sounds like what those hairy goofballs called the "Banana
Splits" used to drive around in.  It was a lame kids show back in the late
60s.  I remember a truly stupid feature of the show was when goofy guy named
Chongo would go berzerk and beat up the bad guys.  They would always say, "
Ut Oh.... CHONGO!!!!!"

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:19:55 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7702
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> > 	Question:  When was the last time you saw a pair of quadrajets
> > sitting on top of a blower?
> 
> I don't think I've ever seen a blower with spread-bore inlets.

Saw one once with Predators. No problem with Q-Jets, though, as most of them
flow upward of 750 cfm.  You don't see Q-Jets in those applications because of
aesthetics.  BDS and Weiand make carb adaptor plates for the X-71 blowers that
bolt to the top.  Gimme two hours on my vertical mill and I'll have one for a
Q-Jet.  (Real hot rodders :-) spend twice the time and money to make parts they
coulda bought over the counter.) 

----------
Posted by: emory!halnet.com!vcook (Vic Cook 3068)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:25:23 1994
Subject: Re: cat converter clogged?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7703
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



On Thu, 24 Feb 1994, The Hotrod List wrote:

> also the carb was running *real* rich for about 2000 miles (guess, could
> have been more).  these might contribute to a clogging,

  Ahem .. REAL RICH for 2000 Miles = FUSING of substrate ..

  Your cat was probably GLOWING RED and melting the ceramic sub. of
  the cat convertor ..

  You can check as for exhaust restrictions with a vacuum gauge

  I *believe* that you look for a slow drop of vac. at idle ..

  Jim


----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:29:57 1994
Subject: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7704
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have an 85 Camero Z28 and I am thinking about putting the
GM ZZ3 345hp 350 HO in it.  The car has a 5 sp tranny, carburated, 
and a 3.73 posi rear end.  Does anyone have the torque specs
on this engine?  I remember Hot Rod or Car Craft doing an article
on this engine in a Camero, but can't seem to find that issue.

What kind of performance should I expect from this engine?

Thanks,
George

gdumpit@auspex.com

----------
Posted by: emory!auspex.com!gdumpit (George Dumpit)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:38:43 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-8*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7705
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

AMA Camel Series                      02/24    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
NHRA, MOTOCRAFT NATIONALS, PHOENIX (T)02/25    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             02/25    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
AMA Camel Series                      02/25    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Motoworld                             02/25    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/26    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (OEM turbos)       02/26    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             02/26    10:00-10:30AM    WGN
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00-3:30PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/26    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/26    4:00-4:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/26    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             02/26    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
Winners (Neil Bonnett, part 2)        02/26    5:00-5:30PM      TNN
M.T. OFF-ROAD SERIES, ANAHEIM (T)     02/26    8:00-9:00PM      ESPN
SUPER BOAT WORLD CHAMP., KEY WEST (T) 02/26    9:00-10:00PM     ESPN
Motoworld                             02/27    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/27    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/27    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, part 2)        02/27    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
Movie: Cannonball Run II              02/27    10:00-11:50AM    MAX
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/27    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/27    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/27   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:00-5:00PM     TNN
Bass N' Race Celebrity Tournament (T) 02/27    1:30-2:30PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (emissions)        02/27    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              02/27    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      02/27    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           02/27    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      02/27    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              02/27   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               02/28    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
SCCA, MIAMI GRAND PRIX (SD)           02/28   10:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
Movie: The Big Wheel                  03/01    4:00-6:00AM      A&E
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL RACING (T)        03/01    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
Power Wheels ??                       03/01    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Movie: Duel                           03/01   10:05PM-12:00AM   TBS
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL RACING (T)        03/02    1:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
Power Wheels ??                       03/02    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Movie: Speedway (the one w/ Elvis)    03/02    10:00-11:35PM    DIS
1994 IndyCar Preview                  03/03    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL RACING (T)        03/03    1:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
Monster Trucks                        03/03    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             03/03    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
Power Wheels ??                       03/03    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Aspire & awards)           03/03    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL RACING (T)        03/04    1:00-4:00PM      ESPN2
Motoworld II                          03/04    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Snowmobile Racing                     03/04    7:00-7:30PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (L)                03/05    1:00PM           TNN
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, START (L)     03/19    9:30AM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, UPDATE (L)    03/19    1:30PM           ESPN
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS, FINISH (L)    03/19    10:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    tba              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (L)            03/20    1:00PM           TNN
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (SD)03/20    10:00PM          ESPN
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (L)              03/26    1:00PM           ESPN
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (?)               03/26 (live coverage unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (L)                 03/27    tba              TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/27    1:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (T)                 03/28    12:00AM          ESPN
IHRA, WINTER NATIONALS (T)            04/03    1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (?)                 04/03    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (L)                 04/09    2:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              04/10    1:10PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, PHOENIX (L)                  04/10    5:00PM           ESPN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (?)        04/10    tba              tba
NASCAR MODIFIEDS, N. WILKESBORO (L)   04/16    1:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, PACIFIC (SD)               04/17    7:50AM       ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, N. WILKESBORO (L)        04/17    1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LONG BEACH (L)               04/17    tba              ABC
IMSA, ATLANTA GRAND PRIX (SD)         04/17    5:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (L)            04/23    2:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, MARTINSVILLE (L)         04/24    12:00PM          ESPN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS (?)          04/24    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, ROUGEMONT (?)               04/30    tba              tba
IROC #3, TALLADEGA (?)                04/30 (live coverage unlikely)
ARCA, TALLADEGA (L)                   04/30    2:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, SAN MARINO (L)             05/01    7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON SELECT, CHARLOTTE (?)         05/01    tba              TNN
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            05/01    2:00PM           ESPN

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 12:55:00 1994
Subject: non-power-assisted disks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7706
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I installed a non-power-assisted disc brake setup on my '54 Chevy truck. 
They work great.  The brakes stop well with very little effort.

I have '90 Camaro discs up front (Engineered Components Inc. made the swap
package to bolt them onto my Mustang II spindles).   I used '90 Camaro front
hoses, made custom brackets out of 1/8" stainless where they meet the steel
brake lines.  I had to make all the custom brake lines.  

The brakes in back are '74 Chevelle drums.  

I used a proportioning valve from, I think it was, a '77 Mercury Montego.

The master cylinder was from a '78 Mustang II.  It bolts up to a custom mount
underneath the floor boards so it can use the stock '54 Chevy brake pedal.  I
adjust the pedal using a jam nut on the clevis.  The only problem with having
it underneath the floorboard is that I had to cut a larger hold in the floor
to be able to add brake fluid.  I welded a little frame around the hole and
topped it with an 1/8" stainless steel plate which I polished up like a
mirror.  The plate sits flush with the plush carpet, and doesn't really get
in the way of anything.

I highly recommend Engineered Components Inc., the guy on the phone really
knows his stuff.  For about $300.00 I got the adaptor plates, calipers,
bolts, rotors, custom sized wheel bearings and seals (all brand new parts).

I got the proportioning valve for $5.00 at the junkyard, and the Chevelle
10-bolt for $100 at the junkyard.  

I got the master cylinder mounting plate from Fatman Fabrications.

The hardest part of the job was finding the goofy fittings to attach the
front brake lines to the flexible hoses, and making my own brake lines from
scratch.

If you ever part out a car, keep the brake fittings -- they'll eventually
come in handy. -- especially the oddball fittings which hook up to the master
cylinder and proportioning valves.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 13:05:31 1994
Subject: F.I.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7707
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

To anyone who has information on the modifications that can be made to the 
rochester 220 throttlebody injection to get it to flow more top end air u
without giving up any feedback driveabillity / fuel milliage.
I recently pulled the system from a rollover G van and installed it on m
my 75 3/4 ton truck. Although the truck has given up a little top end pull
from its 383 by losing the carb, the general useabillity of the truck in 
daily driving is a million times better.  The engine runs the originaleh  
heads(redone) and aftermarket headers, fitted to fit the o/2 sensor.
When I rebuilt this engine about 10,000 miles ago I traded the cam for 
the Comp. 252 (I think). ht

	Also has anyone any information on possibly adding nitrous to the
throttle injection system.

----------
Posted by: emory!cc.weber.edu!MROBINSON
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 13:15:10 1994
Subject: Email archives now online
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7708
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Archives for the Z-car and Hotrod mailing lists are now available via
email.  This is in addition to the archives maintained by Jialin Lin
at ece.rutgers.edu and available only via FTP.  The archives are 
divided by month and year and with only minor exceptions, contain
everything ever posted to either list.  

These are available by emailing commands to the mail slave at 
listserv@dixie.com.  In the body of the message say:

type this                 don't type this
--------------------------------------------------------------

address your@address      <--- optional - address send to.
index                     <--- send a listing of files
help                      <--- Send the help file
send arch_name file_name  <--- Send a file from an archive.  The archive
                               name is hotrod for the hotrod list and
                               zcar for the z-car list.  If no archive
                               name is specified, the default is "perform"

The file will be returned to you as a series of uuencoded email
messages.

I have set up my mailing list software to automatically maintain and
add to this archive so it should always be current to the end of the 
previous month.  

Enjoy
John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
Performance Engineering Magazine.  Email to me published at my sole discretion

Hey Clinton: Give America the gift that keeps on giving.  Quit breathing.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 16:21:52 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Performance Produ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7709
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>>The AMC I-6 has Clifford's 4-BBL manifold and headers (3 into 1, so it has 
dua l 

exhaust. ) We had Crane grind a "special" cam for this combination. We used
a chevy 10.5 to one piston and cut reliefs for the valves. <<

Is there any reason that you didn't go with a Clifford cam?

>>We went through 3 Cyl. heads before we had all of the problems with valve
lift (kept snapping rocker studs off) corrected. Once we repaired that
problem, we started destroying timing chains every time we used the vehicle
real hard in the woods.<<


Why did the rocker studs break off? Installation problem caused by Clifford
or the installer? 

--George

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 16:37:40 1994
Subject: Top Fuel wheels
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7710
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 What size front tires do Top Fuel cars run now?  What kind of kingpin
inclincation and caster?
                                                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 16:48:20 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7711
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Ask Dave Williams,  he's the expert on Quadra-jets.
					

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 16:59:20 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7712
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



yo

In <8dj4tm_@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com writes:

## 
## 
##    Last fall I started having problems with the 429CJ in my '70 Torino.
## I didn't do much to it over the winter because I don't have a heated
## area to work in.  But spring is on the way now and I want to get this
## thing back on the road!
## Posted by: Larry Estep 

   Larry,
   
     You might want to check the heads for for cracks or some sort of leakage.
   Ben Cook.

----------
Posted by: emory!CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU!BC3273 (BEN COOK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 17:11:11 1994
Subject: Re: Flywheel balancing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7713
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I'm just curious why you didn't have the assembly balanced?  I know
-> small blocks are good to as high as 7200 rpm with a stock short block

 It depends on how much free cash you have.  You can't get anything
balanced around here for less than $150.  Lots of places it's $200.
                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 17:22:36 1994
Subject: Re: Harwood Fireberglass Hood
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7714
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

You may want to also check with US Body Source in
Hampton, FL.  My neighbor and myself have ordered
hoods from there.  He has the HD part which uses
the original type hinges with weaker support
springs, while I went with the "Pin On" variety.
Their version of the p/o is *plenty* sturdy for
my street car.

I can't say for sure that the following is still
correct, but for anyone interested the address/phone
I have is:
US Body Source Inc
Star Route 1 Box 800
Hampton, FL  32044
Ph: (904) 468-2203               

-greg


-- 
Greg Parmer				INTERNET:  gparmer@acenet.auburn.edu
Lead Specialist, Network Support	VOICE: (205) 844-9660
Alabama Cooperative Extension Service	FAX: (205) 844-3501
Auburn University, AL  36849-5646	

----------
Posted by: Gregory A. Parmer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 17:33:45 1994
Subject: Re:  crate motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7715
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>( Got the "Crate Motor" yesterday at lunch -- no !@#$@# pullys!  The
>LT1 and ZR1 crate motors come with pullys, but cost a few grand more.
>Tranny this Saturday. )
>
>Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America

For shits and giggles, how much did you pay for this beast?  How does
it compare to the crate motors offered by Summit Racing?

jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 17:45:10 1994
Subject: SB Chevy head #'s
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7716
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	I've noticed that quite a few people have recently posted asking
about their small block heads and what they are.  I've included some part
numbers (last 3 digits) and info on the heads, as taken from Corvette Fever,
February 1994.  Incidently, if you have the oil fill on your valve cover, you
may be able to look into it with a flashlight and see the number (depending
on how it was installed).

casting #	chamber vol.	intake port vol.	stock valve size
		   (cc)      	     (cc)		   (int/exh in.)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
   034		   64/68	      190			-
   058          --------------------------same----------------------------
   392          --------------------------same----------------------------
   049          --------------------------same----------------------------
   041	           64		      160		   2.02/1.60
   113	    	   58		      163	 	   1.94/1.50
   186		   64		      160		   2.02/1.60
   292		   64		      180		       -
   441		   73		      155		   1.95/1.50
   461		   64		      165		   2.02/1.60
   461X		   64		      170		   2.02/1.60
   462		   64		      160		   2.02/1.60
   492	        --------------------------same---------------------------
   376	        --------------------------same---------------------------
   603		--------------------------same---------------------------
   624		   76		      161		   2.02/1.60
   896		   59		      137		   1.72/1.50

	I suggest looking at the article, as it explains differences other
than these.

				Joe

----------
Posted by: emory!zirconia.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 17:56:37 1994
Subject: Re: T5 parts and other questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7717
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <3gs45_f@dixie.com> emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty) wrote:
:>In article  you write:
:>[]

:>which late '80s ford units?  the 'world class' units on mustang gts
:>are very good and quite strong.

	Not really.  The "world class" units on the Mustang were rated at
305lb-ft or somesuch for a motor that made 300lb-ft of torque.  Can you say
"marginal"?  I knew you could.

:>you can get an even stronger version from ford motorsports.

	I'm sure you could.

:>a comparable chevy version is used on v8 camaros/firebirds.

	Uh, no.  The T5 comes in many different flavors, many of which are
noninterchangeable.

:>>Is the early GM T5 as bad as the late 80's Ford units? What are the ratio's
:>>of the T5's out of a Camaro or S10 pickup?

	I own an S10 with a T5, and I honestly couldn't tell you.

:>the pony-car v8 versions have a 2.95:1 or 3.36:1 first; all the others
:>are wider, some as low as 4.09:1.

	That would probably be about right for my truck.  It winds up pretty
quickly.  First is only good for getting it rolling off the line and idling
forward in heavy traffic.

	The T5 in the S10 probably has the worst reputation of any T5.  I
imagine many corners were cut, as the thing is sitting behind a wimpy 2.8V6
on my truck.  The T5 that sits behind the 4.3V6 is probably another animal
entirely.

:>>                                           Does anyone have a name and
:>>address where I can buy individual parts.

:>have you tried the dealer's parts department?

	I see you like Vaseline.  Make sure they kiss you first.

--
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 18:06:47 1994
Subject: Re: Pleasanton Swap Meet 2/27
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7718
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Feb 24,  3:44pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: Pleasanton Swap Meet 2/27
> First of the season - Pleasanton Swap meet this Sunday 2/27
> 
> Bernal Rd off I-680
>-- End of excerpt from The Hotrod List
Pamona is next weekkO for the SOCAL crowd.Mike{



-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 18:21:09 1994
Subject: Re:  ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7719
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>From the ZZ3 spec sheet here in my hand...

"A prototype HO 350 engine with a Quadrajet carburator, 1 3/4"
headers, and low-restriction mufflers produced 345 hp @ 5250 rpm and
387 lb-ft torque @3250 rpm."

I just bought one Wednesday, and hope to put it in tomorrow.

I hope to be able to run 150 mph @ ~6000 rpm in my '64 Chevelle.  From
what I have read, this is possible.  Should work well in a Camaro,
too.  Call me in a month for specific details.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 18:25:34 1994
Subject: O2 sensors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7720
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

My question: has anyone actually bought one of the after-market versions
of the air-fuel ratio sensors?  And, with these, can you get an acurate,
fast enough reading to help diagnose such things as off-idle mixture or
part-trottle changes or are they better suited to down the highway driving?

	My thoughts are that it would be neat if someone made a version on
the same design as a tell-tale or memory tach.; one that could replay the
mixture changes over a driver designed, controlled acceleration run.  Or
maybe could provide mixture info along with a replay on the tach to more
accurately show flat-spots or rich conditions.
	Just a thought.  Ideas?
					Later,
					Toen Starkweather
					Engineering Management
					University of Missouri - Rolla

----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 18:35:17 1994
Subject: Swap Meets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7721
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Upcoming Swap Meets:

2/27: Pleasanton (Alameda Cty Fairgrounds) Bernal Rd off I-680

3/13: Watsonville (Santa Cruz Cty Fairgrounds) Hwy 152

3/20: Swap Shoreline (Shoreline Ampitheatre) Hwy 101 - Mountain View

3/26-27: Pleasanton (Alameda Cty Fairgrounds) Bernal Rd off I-680
	 Goodguys - part of All American Get-Together


--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 18:49:26 1994
Subject: AMC/Chrysler 258
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7722
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Chrysler is now making a kit to convert old 258 carb engines to TBI. Also,
they make a kit to convert the ignition to a distributerless ignition.
Of course this is 50 state legal and will improve fuel ecomomy. 

For Clifford, they have been around a long time. I think they even offer a 
fuely kit as well. I read in one of those four wheel drive mags about
someone like Kaufman or Kenne Bell coming out with a fuely kit too. I might
be wrong though.

I think Chrysler is offering performance parts for the 4.2 and 4.0.

What about swaping 4.0 from a new Wrangler. They 190hp stock! Better
designed valve covers. The old 4.2 leak like crazy!!!

See ya
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 18:58:24 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7723
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

->  I got to go to class now, but if you're on later, I'll be more than happy
-> to tell you the ease of tuning a Holley.  Lack of parts does not mean lack
-> of tuning ability.
-> 	Question:  When was the last time you saw a pair of quadrajets
-> sitting on top of a blower?
-> 					Later,
-> 					Toen Starkweather
-> 					strkwthr@umr.edu
-> ----------
-> Posted by: Toen Starkweather 

Toen,

I think the original question regarding tuning was in reference to the
street.  If so, he is correct.  Holleys can be made to operate very
nicely at idle and at WOT; but not in between.  Since drag race engines
need only idle and WOT, they match up very well with the strong points
of a Holley.  For street operation you spend most of the time at part
throttle.  Here is where you need the carb to respond to the ever
changing manifold vacuum signal.  However, Holleys were not designed
with this in mind.

Carter AFBs, AVSs, and Thermoquads, and Rochester Quadrajets were all
designed to adjust the fuel flow through the jets as the vacuum signal
changed.  They are, therefore, easier to tune in the sense that they
provide for a much wider range of adjustment to suit the various driving
conditions.  At the same time, it is precisely because of this latitude
in adjustment that there are more ways they can be mis-adjusted too.
You need to think more about symptoms, what problems cause them, and how
best to correct the problems.  I think that part of the reason Holleys
are more popular is because of a lack of understanding regarding the
other carbs.

Warning:  Philosophical mode on:
The other reason Holleys are more popular is that using what the other
guys use is viewed as safe.  You can ask for tuning advice and most
will answer without giving you a wierd look or asking the embarrasing
question, "Why would anyone would use 'one of those' on a race car?".
Philosophical mode off:

As to your question, "When was the last time you saw a pair of quadrajets
sitting on top of a blower?", that is easily answered by referring back
to paragraph one above.  Blowers with carbs sitting on top are inherently
a race combination, (since you can't really see well enough over the carbs
for street use), and Holleys, being designed for a racing application,
are easier to tune for that application.  No mystery here.

George Kulp

----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Feb 25 19:05:20 1994
Subject: Re: Manifold Gaskets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7724
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Jonathan Lusy asks:
>What is the net.concensus for the use of sealant on SBC intake gaskets?
>What type, where, and how much?

I have been using the factory recommendation which is a little Permatex
#2 around the water passages on the side gaskets.  No sealer anywhere
else on the side gaskets.  I don't use the rubber strips to seal the
front and back at all; instead, I use oxygen sensor safe RTV in those
areas.  After the RTV hardens I trim off the excess with a small sharp
knife.  The metal needs to be very clean and oil free for the RTV to
stick properly - I usually use acetone as a last wash before applying
the RTV.

This practice seems to work fine for pre-86 hardware.  I don't have
any post-86 hardware so I can't comment about it.

Bob Hale    hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!tesla.is!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 11:04:14 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford Products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7725
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Somebody was asking about Clifford products, and I thought I
would offer my completely honest comments about their products.

	I have a Chevy 250 I-6 engine on which I installed some new
Clifford components about a year ago.

	I paid $144 for the Clifford header set. They come as two
separate headers, one for cylinder 1,2,3 and the other for 4,5,6.
I found the headers EXTREMELY hard to install correctly. There are
absolutely no mounting holes or tabs to align the headers onto the
head correctly. I used header bolts and needed to create my own
washer in order to hold the headers on correctly. I blew out two
exhaust gaskets because the headers weren't exactly aligned the
first two times. Also, I don't know what kind of paint they used on
them, but originally the paint was blue, it burnt off within 5 minutes
of starting up (really!), and a few days later were rusted. If
you get them, I recommend wire brushing them down nicely and painting
them with a good coat of VHT heat paint, which has lasted me many
months now.

	The aluminum intake manifold cost me $141. I later found out
I had to dish out another $28 for a carburetor adapter, as it does
not come with one. The intake looks rather nice and is aluminum.
However, I have had a problem with my middle two cylinders running
quite a bit leaner than the other cylinders. I was told this is
an inherent problem with the Clifford manifolds, and the solution
is to install a carburetor heater plate (Clifford told me this
himself). I have been told by others the Offenhauser manifold
doesn't have this problem, and would be a better choice for street
use (plus it comes with a spacer for only $135!)

	BTW, I chose to use a Holley 465cfm 4bbl with this intake.
I chose this one because it was small (I needed less than 500cfm)
and it was cheap (around $180). I have been very happy with this
carb and it has given me no trouble.

	I almost bought a Clifford cam, but I couldn't understand
the catalog specifications. They come in 254 degree, 264 degree,
274 degree, and 284 degrees of lift. At what height, I don't know,
because they don't tell you. I finally decided on a Competition
Cams with a 218 degree lift at .050". The cam cost me $115 from
Summit. The above cam and carb combination gives me a park
idle speed of 1400 rpms and a drive idle speed of 900rpms. Both
are very smooth. Summer mileage with non-oxygenated gas is an
average of 21mpg, with 25mpg on the highway. Winter mileage
with oxy gas sucks at an average of 17mpg with an around town
as low as 11mpg (this is because the cam operating range is
in the 1800 to 5800 rpm range.)

	I suppose I should say a few good things about Clifford.
Um, they are the biggest supporter of straight 6 engines and
have just about everything you could imagine. They also seem
to be quite knowledgable and helpful (such as when he explained
why my middle cylinders were running lean). My car is much more
powerful than it was in stock form. I can give my brother's
12.5:1 350 a run for his money.

	Sorry the above isn't a glowing report on Clifford, but
it is the honest truth. Oh, another point: Don't use Clifford
intake/exhaust gaskets! My car blew out three in a very short
period. I have used Fel-Pro steel core since without a problem.
(One of the coolest blow-outs was doing 75mph on the highway,
when there was a WHOOMP! and then the sound of a leaky header.
Blew out a 4 inch section of gasket between cylinders 2&3. Also
sent Clifford a rather not-nice letter after that, with the gasket
pieces. Haven't heard from them since.)


						Jason

Experience varies directly with equipment ruined.

(jcborkow@eden.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!Jason,"6=8",Borkowsky
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 11:21:04 1994
Subject: Re: Clifford products
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7726
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


#>>The AMC I-6 has Clifford's 4-BBL manifold and headers (3 into 1, so it has 
#dua l 
#exhaust. ) We had Crane grind a "special" cam for this combination. We used
#a chevy 10.5 to one piston and cut reliefs for the valves. <<
#
#Is there any reason that you didn't go with a Clifford cam?

The "special" we got from crane was a maximum lift and duration
(i forget the spec's) cam designed for our need (high rev's). 
Powerband is from 4000-7200 rpm. 

We wanted to get more rev's out of the motor than what was available for cam 
selection. Since the cost of ordering a custom was the same as one on the 
shelf, we chose to have one made.
We tow the jeep to the local sand pit on a trailer. It has taken quite a few 
beatings at the pit. It has everything you would look for in a 
recreational area... Big steep hillclimbs (300' at 50 deg), DEEP mud, and 
lots of trails (over 500 miles of trees)

It is extremely fun in the woods at WOT :')

#
#>>We went through 3 Cyl. heads before we had all of the problems with valve
#lift (kept snapping rocker studs off) corrected. Once we repaired that
#problem, we started destroying timing chains every time we used the vehicle
#real hard in the woods.<<
#
#
#Why did the rocker studs break off? Installation problem caused by Clifford
#or the installer? 

With the high lift, we had to modify all of the pushrods and rocker arms.
We had to get custom adjustable pushrods and used a stamped steel chevy rocker.	
Didn't allow enough clearance for the lift on the rocker... 
It was an installer problem... 
(it's my friend's jeep. I'm just the passenger)

-dan a.


-dan a.
#
#- --George

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 11:32:29 1994
Subject: Re: O2 sensors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7727
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Don't forget this .. dime-a-dozen EGO sensors have a >300 msec response
time and cannot detect transients ..

The good <100 msec EGO sensors cost upwards of $1000

Jim


----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 11:43:32 1994
Subject: AMC/Chrysler 258
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7728
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>>What about swaping 4.0 from a new Wrangler. They 190hp stock! Better
designed valve covers. The old 4.2 leak like crazy!!!<<

That would be an interesting option, but the new 4.0 would cost more than I
paid for the Jeep. 

I think that Clifford's kit is a port injection system. When I get the
chance, I plan on picking up the Mopar book on AMC engines. Unfortunately,
its a bit expensive ($25). 

As far as leaking: I haven't had any problems with my 1979 CJ-5 with the
metal valve cover, but my housemate's Wrangler with the plastic valve cover
has mucho problems. Its in the shop now. 

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 14:42:30 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7729
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> bolt to the top.  Gimme two hours on my vertical mill and I'll have
-> one for a Q-Jet.  (Real hot rodders :-) spend twice the time and
-> money to make parts they coulda bought over the counter.)

 Real hot rodders spend as much on tools as they do on cars.  

 Now that I have a vertical mill, I keep casting an eye on CNC...  my
wife has become a real problem too.  She wants me to build an English
wheel, except I don't have anywhere to *put* the thing.  Pretty soon the
place will be so full I won't have room to pull cars in.
          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 14:52:27 1994
Subject: Re: non-power disks?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7730
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>   i've been looking at putting disks on the front end of my 69 nova,
> and had considered going with a rally-style dual master (tandem?, with
> balancer bar...).  if i get a sufficiently large master for the disks,
> do i still need power boost?  perhaps i've never had a set of 'good'
> (quality) boosted brakes, but all the power brake setups i've driven
> have been uncomfortably mushy...

No. The problem with disk is that they have no servo-action. YOU
provide all the actuation force. A larger master cyl will require
even more pedal force to generate the line pressure.

You can fit a balance bar after the booster cylinder...

The 'mush' comes from 3 places. Flex in the pedal mounts etc. 2c flex
lines on production vehicles. These swell under pressure. Cruddy
boosters with long lap on the valves.

With disks you really do need a booster of some sort, or fully powered
Citroen type brakes. If you want to split the system, in line boosters
are not a good idea, as the front one could die, but leave you with
fully boosted rears. ;-)

You should be able to get the stock Chev bits you need to do the conversion.
Add Aeroquip lines though.

--
~Paul
                                                       +61 (09) 257-1001
prep@yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au ( preferred )                1 Crescent Rd,
zrepachol@cc.curtin.edu.au                             Kalamunda,
                                                       West Aust    6076

----------
Posted by: emory!yarrow.wt.uwa.edu.au!prep (Paul Repacholi)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 15:48:27 1994
Subject: Re: T5 parts and other questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7731
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna) wrote:
>In article <3gs45_f@dixie.com> emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty) wrote:
>:>In article  you write:
>:>[]
>
>:>which late '80s ford units?  the 'world class' units on mustang gts
>:>are very good and quite strong.
>
>	Not really.  The "world class" units on the Mustang were rated at
>305lb-ft or somesuch for a motor that made 300lb-ft of torque.  Can you say
>"marginal"?  I knew you could.

'quite strong' for the original poster's quad 4.

btw, the t-10 and muncie trannies weren't rated significantly higher.
[t-10 with 3.44:1 first - 280 ft/lbs; t5 with 4.09:1 first - 220 ft/lbs.]

[]
>:>a comparable chevy version is used on v8 camaros/firebirds.
>
>	Uh, no.  The T5 comes in many different flavors, many of which are
>noninterchangeable.

the -outsides- are different, the -insides- are the same.

[]
>:>>                                           Does anyone have a name and
>:>>address where I can buy individual parts.
>
>:>have you tried the dealer's parts department?
>
>	I see you like Vaseline.  Make sure they kiss you first.

didn't say they'd be cheap...

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 15:57:38 1994
Subject: Re: AMC/Chrysler 258
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7732
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn) wrote:
[]
>What about swaping 4.0 from a new Wrangler. They 190hp stock! Better
>designed valve covers. The old 4.2 leak like crazy!!!

mechanically an easy swap.  dunno 'bout wiring though.
anyone know whose ecu jeep is using?  i thought it was a ford unit...

the 4.0 does have more hp, but the 4.2 has more off-idle grunt.

you can put the 4.2 crank and rods into the 4.0 and make a 4.5...

andy hay adh@an.bradford.ma.us

----------
Posted by: emory!world.std.com!sff (don l doughty)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 16:07:32 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7733
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>I have an 85 Camero Z28 and I am thinking about putting the
>GM ZZ3 345hp 350 HO in it.  The car has a 5 sp tranny, carburated, 
>and a 3.73 posi rear end.  
>
>gdumpit@auspex.com
>Posted by: emory!auspex.com!gdumpit (George Dumpit)

Ouch.  Speaking from experience, you can count on getting to know the
transmission shop fairly well.  I have an '84 Z28 with a 300+ hp engine
that I (used to) wind up to 7000 RPM on a regular basis.  After four 5-sp
transmissions, I learned to control the throttle, as the tranny cannot
handle this sort of power.  Pushing that kind of power through that tranny
is a bad idea.

My advice is to replace your tranny with a 4-sp or something that can handle
the power.  Even if you spend a little extra money, it will be good in the
long run.  I even tried a forged input shaft, new third and reverse gears.
I would suggest going with a 4-sp or 6-sp.  I have seen the 6-sp that is
put in the 93-94 camaros advertised for $1500-1600, and I would suggest 
that you look into this option and others.

-good luck

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Feb 26 23:33:07 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7734
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  
> Ouch.  Speaking from experience, you can count on getting to know the
> transmission shop fairly well.  I have an '84 Z28 with a 300+ hp engine
> that I (used to) wind up to 7000 RPM on a regular basis.  After four 5-sp
> transmissions, I learned to control the throttle, as the tranny cannot
> handle this sort of power.  Pushing that kind of power through that tranny
> is a bad idea.
> 
> My advice is to replace your tranny with a 4-sp or something that can handle
> the power.  Even if you spend a little extra money, it will be good in the
> long run.  I even tried a forged input shaft, new third and reverse gears.
> I would suggest going with a 4-sp or 6-sp.  I have seen the 6-sp that is
> put in the 93-94 camaros advertised for $1500-1600, and I would suggest 
> that you look into this option and others.
> 
> -good luck
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)


What's your humble opinion on the World Class 5sp for this application?
I can pick up a used one w/ relatively low miles for around $500, a little
more within my budget than the 6 sp Borg-Warner. (especially after I 
purchase the new motor...)

Also, I know of a couple Z28 w/ SB 400's in them.  They have the Non-WC 5 sp
tranny in them and don't seem to have any problems.  One owner told me that
as long as I don't slam thru the gears really hard, I shouldn't have any
problems either.

I also had an 84' Z28 with the wimpy LG4 engine.  I used to bang the gears
pretty hard and munched the cluster as well as some syncros.  So hopefully
I won't have any problems as long as I'm not brutal on gear changes.

George.... ;-)

----------
Posted by: emory!auspex.com!gdumpit (George Dumpit)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 12:28:41 1994
Subject: Re: AMC/Chrysler 258
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7735
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>>you can put the 4.2 crank and rods into the 4.0 and make a 4.5...<<

Kooky idea. Anybody done it?

George
georgehowell@delphi.com

----------
Posted by: emory!delphi.com!GEORGEHOWELL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 12:34:05 1994
Subject: Fiero Transmission
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7736
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Can anyone tell me how much hp a Fiero transaxle can handle?
And more importantly, how can I beef it up?
I plan on about 430 hp, and a re-body...

==Rich

----------
Posted by: emory!bucc1.bradley.edu!Richard.P.Bjornson
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 19:40:44 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7737
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> the power.  Even if you spend a little extra money, it will be good in the
> long run.  I even tried a forged input shaft, new third and reverse gears.
> I would suggest going with a 4-sp or 6-sp.  I have seen the 6-sp that is
> put in the 93-94 camaros advertised for $1500-1600, and I would suggest 
> that you look into this option and others.

  would you please direct me to were you have seen the t56 6-speed for 1500-
1600, cause I haven't seen anything lower than 2700.

 thanks

  (frouharf@acf2.nyu.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!acf2.NYU.EDU!frouharf (Mark Frouhar)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 19:51:11 1994
Subject: RX7 handling characteristics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7738
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 It's time to do a little suspension work on my wife's '79 RX7.  At
140,000 miles practically everything is worn out.  It needs shocks,
tierod ends, ball joints, bushings, and could probably stand new
springs.

 Other than being pretty sloppy the car handles pretty much like it
always has, and close enough to the other early RXs I've driven.  That
is, mild understeer when entering a corner, changing to gee-whiz-I'm-
spinning-like-a-top oversteer if you even *think* about getting on or
off the gas.  It's fine to putz around with, but when you start to push
the car hard it becomes annoying.  I've never driven anything that'd get
tailhappy like the RX, and I *like* tailhappy cars, only I like 'em a
little more predictable.

 I've tinkered with the car before, and looked at the service manual.
Plain old McPherson struts up front, live axle in back with Watts link
and longitudinal locating links.  From a brief look I don't see what
makes the car so damned tailhappy.

 I don't have a good drawing of the rear suspension's longitudinal
links and I haven't even looked under there in years.  I'd suspect
massive roll oversteer, except the car doesn't roll much, it just swaps
ends.

 Does anyone have any suspension experience with early RXs they'd like
to share?  I don't mind doing a little fabrication if I have to - the
thing is squirrelly with a crummy hundred horses now; when I drop the
new engine in it will probably be much worse.
                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 19:57:25 1994
Subject: Need Engine Advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7739
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I've got an '81 Jeep Cherokee with a ford 360 (stock).
Up to 1979 Jeep would, as an option, drop a ford 400 in there.
I was talking to some people, thinking about moving my Jeep
up to the 400 when someone told me that if a 400 fit, that a 
460 should fit.
	Does anybody know how feasible this is?  I'm also open
to advise on what to watch for if I decide to do this, or else
other suggestions for what to do.    email replies are better 
because I don't read this group as often as I should... thanks.


--
----------------------------------------------------------------------
| travism@netcom.com                     "You want fries with that?" |
----------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!travism (TravisM)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 20:02:07 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7740
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <3sv4nsp@dixie.com>, The Hotrod List  wrote:
>What's your humble opinion on the World Class 5sp for this application?

Well, I have to admit that I do not know a whole lot about the World Class
tranny.  Do you know what the differences are?  I suspect that they are 
probably very close to what I ended up with in my 5-sp.  Something like 
a forged input shaft and a stronger 3rd gear.  The problem with the 5-sp
transmission is that it was designed for the small-displacement motors that 
were making no power in the early 80's.  The biggest factor influencing manual
transmission strength capacity is the center distance (distance between the
centerlines of the mainshaft and countershaft).  The inherent problem with the
B/W 5-sp is that this distance is entirely too small.  The 5-sp has a c-dist
of 77mm, but something like the T10 has 82.5mm and the T56 has 85mm.

Oh... wait a sec... here's something on the World-Class.  "The W/C 5-sp upgraded
from traditional brass synchronizer blocker rings to powdered-steel-formed
blocker ringes lined with organic friction material similar to those used in
juice box clutch packs.  This new type of synchro aided shift consistency while
improving overall trans dureability."  The shop may have done something like
this to my tranny.. They said that they upgraded the synchros, but I do not 
know how they did it.

>I can pick up a used one w/ relatively low miles for around $500, a little
>more within my budget than the 6 sp Borg-Warner. (especially after I 
>purchase the new motor...)

I understand completely... It is my shortage of cash that keeps me from 
swapping my transmission.  I no longer race the car at the track, and my
street racing is limited to rolling starts and typically I only run through
one gear (ie- no hard shifts).  On the other hand, looking at all of the money
that I spent rebuilding trannies, I could have bought a couple of T56's.  In
the long run, my cheapness hurt me bad.

>Also, I know of a couple Z28 w/ SB 400's in them.  They have the Non-WC 5 sp
>tranny in them and don't seem to have any problems.  One owner told me that
>as long as I don't slam thru the gears really hard, I shouldn't have any
>problems either.

This is true.  Most of the damage done to my tranny can be attributed to 
problems with shifting.  It's not like I was shifting *incorrectly*, it's just
that the B/W 5-sp couldn't handle the same type of shifts that you can dish
out to a T10 or anything like that.  I never power-shifted or ground the 
gears, but I was generous with the gas in the shifting.  The rear-end would
sometimes slide sideways when I shifted at the track, and I can definitely
lay scratches through third gear.  Of course, all of that is also a function
of tires, and I never have had the dough to get some good slicks.

But what do you want to do with your car?  Do you plan on taking it to the 
track and/or doing some serious street racing?  If so, then soft shifts are
really going to hurt your car's overall performance.  If you just want a car
that has some get-up-and-go, then you might be able to get away with a B/W
5-sp.

-good luck
Brian

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 20:08:15 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7741
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


OK, I found some more info on the world-class 5-sp.  It has improved synchros,
as I stated earlier, tapered support bearings, and needle-bearing mainshaft
gears.  They can supposedly take 300 net lbs-ft of torque.  But I will quote
from Car Craft: "But no T5 can really cut it behind a serious performance 
application."

If you want to learn a little more about beefing up a third gen camaro, check
out the Feb '92 issue of Car Craft.  It includes a page on tranny swaps, and
has a full-length article on the T56.  There's 9 pages on various components
that should be addressed when beefing up an f-car.

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 20:13:35 1994
Subject: Fiero Transmission
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7742
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Can anyone tell me how much hp a Fiero transaxle can handle?
-> And more importantly, how can I beef it up?
-> I plan on about 430 hp, and a re-body...

 Auto and four speed Fieros used the Citation X-car transaxle, notorious
for problems, like having the actual trans housing split or wallowing
out the bearing mounts.  A German-made 5-speed (Getrag?) was also
available; I have no other information on it.

 Transmissions are rated in ft-lb torque in first gear.  I would be very
surprised if the factory rating for the X-car box was over 175 ft-lb.
You can get away with more power than that if you drive on the street
and don't get wild in first gear, but I doubt it'd hold up to a 430hp
motor for drag racing or autocross.
                                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Feb 27 20:18:26 1994
Subject: Re: Fiero Transmission
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7743
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>Can anyone tell me how much hp a Fiero transaxle can handle?
>And more importantly, how can I beef it up?

>I plan on about 430 hp, 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^BOOM!

I don't think a transaxle designed for _maybe_ 175 hp could be beefed
up that much.

For an Ottomatic try the one out of an Olds Tornado

Or for a stick maybe one out of a Pantera, but I would think that you
would be talking some serious coin.

Matt A.
-- 
Why is it that we are what we are,
when if given half a chance we could be
what we really want to be?
            -J. Hart

----------
Posted by: Matthew Charles Acheson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 12:57:14 1994
Subject: Chrysler computers/Modifying
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7744
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  I'm looking for information on the Chrysler SBECs, at least what
kind of processor they use.  Basically I'm looking to modify a 
Turbo III engine (yeah, the 2.2L 16 valve one that puts out 225hp
stock).  What I would love is information on how the prom is coded
(how the maps are stored) etc.

  -- Greg

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 "Autocrossers go in deeper and come out harder" 1991 Spirit R/T-G Stock
 B.S. Computer Sci., Minor Experimental Psychology - you figure it out
 "A day is how you play within it"  10/30/93

----------
Posted by: emory!rpi.edu!stiegg (G. Stiegler)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 13:07:34 1994
Subject: Re: RX7 handling characteristics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7745
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Ask on the Autocross list, theres probobly lots of them running there.
autox@autox.team.net
Matt A.
-- 
Why is it that we are what we are,
when if given half a chance we could be
what we really want to be?
            -J. Hart

----------
Posted by: Matthew Charles Acheson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 13:14:51 1994
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7746
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Path: wtam
From: wtam@copper.ucs.indiana.edu (Borgoth the Odorific)
Subject: Re: Need Engine Advice
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System)
Nntp-Posting-Host: copper.ucs.indiana.edu
Organization: Indiana University, Bloomington, IN
References: <+mw4a4l@dixie.com>
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 1994 05:33:48 GMT

In article <+mw4a4l@dixie.com>, The Hotrod List  wrote:
>
>	I've got an '81 Jeep Cherokee with a ford 360 (stock).
>Up to 1979 Jeep would, as an option, drop a ford 400 in there.
>I was talking to some people, thinking about moving my Jeep
>up to the 400 when someone told me that if a 400 fit, that a 
>460 should fit.
>	Does anybody know how feasible this is?  I'm also open
>to advise on what to watch for if I decide to do this, or else
>other suggestions for what to do.    email replies are better 
>because I don't read this group as often as I should... thanks.
>
>
>--
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>| travism@netcom.com                     "You want fries with that?" |
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!netcom.com!travism (TravisM)

The ford 400M is developed from, and has very similar external dimensions
to, the ford 351Cleveland.  I don't know if a 460 will drop into your
Jeep or not.  If it, did, however, you might well be better off with the 
351Cleveland (and the 351C will almost certainly give you better results
than the 400M) anyway, depending on just how that engine bay is shaped.
When they put the "boss"429 (same block as the 460, shorter stroke, 
higher revs) and the "boss"351C in Mustangs in '71, the faster car was the
boss351.  Both motors need as unconstricted an exhaust system as possible -
in the Mustang example, the basically superior flow characteristics of the
cleveland combined with more clearance for less constricted headers and 
a 200 pound weight advantage overcame the difference in displacement. 
	On the other hand, of course, the 351C is a high-revving racecar
motor that eats rocker arms and timing chains and hasn't been produced 
since 1973, and thus may be less suitable for an off-road truck application
than the 460, which makes tons of power down low, is very dependable, and
is still being produced and raced by an awful lot of people.



Now and forever, Borgoth




----------
Posted by: "USENET News System" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 13:26:19 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7747
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>  would you please direct me to were you have seen the t56 6-speed for 1500-
>1600, cause I haven't seen anything lower than 2700.

Actually, I didn't personally see it, but someone reported it on this 
newsgroup.  See message #5164, and it is towards the very end of the article.

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 13:33:30 1994
Subject: Reply to Re: Fiero Transmission
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7748
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>In alt.hotrod you write:
>
>>Can anyone tell me how much hp a Fiero transaxle can handle?
>>And more importantly, how can I beef it up?
>
>>I plan on about 430 hp,
>^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^BOOM!
>
>I don't think a transaxle designed for _maybe_ 175 hp could be beefed
>up that much.
>
>            -J. Hart

I have companies which sell V-8 conversions which are rated that high in hp.

----------
Posted by: emory!bucc1.bradley.edu!Richard.P.Bjornson
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 14:52:39 1994
Subject: Need Engine Advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7749
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I've got an '81 Jeep Cherokee with a ford 360 (stock).
-> Up to 1979 Jeep would, as an option, drop a ford 400 in there.
-> I was talking to some people, thinking about moving my Jeep
-> up to the 400 when someone told me that if a 400 fit, that a
-> 460 should fit.

 A Ford 360/361 is an FE-series big block.  The 400 is a high deck
Cleveland "small block."  The 460 is a big block, different from the FE.

 If you have the FE motor (valve covers overlap intake manifold) the
transmission bolt pattern is different from the 400 and 460, which are
the same.  So's the torque convertor pilot if AT, and the input shaft
length if MT.  A better swap would be a 390 or 428 motor, which is of
the same family as the 361 and will drop right in.
                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 15:02:09 1994
Subject: Re: cat converter clogged?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7750
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article fgs454c@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>greetings:
>  i'm attempting to determine why my car is slowly getting slower and 
>slower.  one thought is the cattle converter.  the car has 126k miles
>(about 50k on this converter), and the motor is using some oil.  also
>the carb was running *real* rich for about 2000 miles (guess, could
>have been more).  these might contribute to a clogging, but i can't
>think of a good/simple way of determining if it's working properly
>(as far as flow/backpressure).  clues cheerfully accepted!
>
>later,
>kc
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)


Time a 0-60 run, remove the converter and time it again...

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 15:17:14 1994
Subject: Engine.FYI
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7751
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 John has given the engine FYI a home on dixie.com, where I'll be
posting some of my other data files.  This is the last time I'll be
posting this to the hotrod list, from now on I'll just post a pointer to
dixie whenever I do an update.  No need to bomb everyone's mailbox all
the time, right?

 As you can see the FYI has grown quite a bit since last time, but I'm
always trolling for new information.  Any figures you have, from Allison
V12s down to outboard motors, are welcome.



                 Engine Weight FYI    version 94.03.01
            by Dave Williams, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us

  It isn't really a Frequently Asked Question, so I'll call it an
"FYI", For Your Information.  This was originally a list I'd compiled
long ago on paper, then moved to the computer, then posted on the net
as a response to some questions.  It wound up being popular, but since
I didn't keep track of the origin of the data there was some debate as
to how accurate the list was.  This new improved list has origins
where I could find references; what doesn't have an origin is stuff
from my original list.

  You'll sometimes see more than one weight listed.  Some weights are
for just a long block, some are complete and ready to run, and of
course everything in between.  Some engines varied in weight during
their production runs - for example, some later Chevy V8s use thinwall
blocks and aluminum heads.

  If you have any figures you'd like to contribute, please send them to
me at the email address above.

                       weight
     engine            pounds   ref.       comments

Alfasud flat-4          240     (2) (19) "complete"
Alfa Romeo SOHC V6      375     (2)
AMC V8                  540         (late design V8s)
AMC V8                  600         (early design V8s)
AMC 6                   500         (early design six - 199)
Audi 2.0 L4             335     (2)
Audi 5                  364     (2) (non-turbo)
Audi 80 1300            230     (2)
Audi 100 1500           240     (2)
Austin C-series L6      562     (2) ('56 Austin-Healey 100-6)

BL "B" L4 OHV           335     (2)
BL "E" L6               345     (2)  ("complete")
BL "O" L4 OHC           298     (2)
BMW M52 3.3,3.5 Big Six 500     (2)
BMW M60 B 40 4.0 V8     468     (17)
BMW M60 Small Six       388     (2)
BMW slant-6 turbodiesel 430
BMW 4.5L V12            607     (2)
BMW M105 Diesel 6 2.5L  430     (4)
Buick 350               450
Buick 401               685     (1) ('59 Nail Head)
Buick 430-455 V8        600         (one ref showed 640) (10 - 600)
Buick 1963 odd-fire V6  414     (2)
Buick V6                375
Buick 3.0 V6 '85-up     350
Buick/Rover 215 V8      318         (and Olds)
Buick 1961 215 V8       324     (2)

Cadillac V8 390         720     (1) ('59)
Cadillac V8 472-500     625
Cadillac V8 500         595     (10)
Cadillac V-16           1,300   (2) (1931)
Cadillac 331 V8         699     (2) (1949)
Chevy Corvair flat 6    300
Chevy 1.8-2.0 L4        302     (4) "J car" pushrod
Chevy Chevette 1.6 SOHC 300     (4) (also Opel)
Chevy Vega L4           285
Chevy II 153 L4         350
Chevy L6 194-250        440
Chevy L6 292            ---
Chevy L6 216/235        630     (2)
Chevy V6-90 229, 4.3    425
Chevy V6-60 2.8, 3.1    350     (2)
Chevy small block V8    575         (generic for '60s-'70s motors)
Chevy small block V8    535     (1) ('59 Corvette 283 w/alum. intake)
Chevy V8 348/409        620     (1)
Chevy big block V8      685         Mark IV
Chevy big block V8      ---         Mark V
Chevy 454               675     (10)
Chrysler 2.2 L4         216     (6) (bare motor)
Chrysler 413 wedge      640     (1) ('59 300-E)
Chrysler 331 Hemi       745     (5) 1955
Citroen 2.0 Douvrin 4   263

DeSoto 383              630     (1) ('59)
DeSoto V8               675     (5) (276-341 CID, '50s)
Dodge V8                645     (5) (241-325 CID, '50s)

Dodge 361               625     (1) ('59)

Edsel 361               680     (1) ('59)

Ferrari 312T            397     (2) (V12 3.0L racing engine)
Ferrari "250" V12       382     (2)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    285     (2) (model 206)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    296     (2) (model 246)
Ford Kent 1600          ---
Ford Escort OHC 1600    ---
Ford 1.3-2.0 OHC        ---
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  418     (2) (also 2.0, 2.5)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  307     (18)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  450     (2) (turbo)
Ford 2.3 Polimotor      152     (12) plastic motor
Ford Germany Taunus V4  205     (2) (and SAAB V4)
Ford England Essex V4   327
Ford Germany 2.0-2.8 V6 305
Ford England Essex V6   379     (2) (3 liter)
Ford 3.8 V6-90          351     (4) (w/start, alt, less clutch)
Ford 3.8 V6-90          311     (18) ("fully dressed")
Ford 170-250 L6         385         (except Australian w/aluminum head)
Ford 240-300 L6         ---
Ford flathead V8        525
Ford flathead V8        569     (1) ('53 239 CID)
Ford Cosworth DFV       353     (2) (racing engine, DOHC, 3.0L)
Ford SOHC modular V8    ---
Ford DOHC modular V8    ---
Ford 255 Windsor        468     (4)
Ford 289/302 V8         460         (late 5.0s are a bit lighter)
Ford BOSS 302           500
Ford 351 Cleveland      550         (includes BOSS and Australian 302-C)
Ford 351 Windsor        510
Ford Y block V8         625         (272-312 CID)
Ford FE big block       650         (332-428 CID)
Ford FE big block       670     (1) ('59 352 CID)
Ford 429/460 V8         640
Ford 460 V8             720     (10)
Ford BOSS 429           680         (iron block, aluminum heads)

GM Rotary Engine        255     (13) cast iron, 1972 PR weight figure
GM Rotary Engine RC206  345     (14) aluminum, 1974 PR weight figure

Isuzu 1.8 Diesel L4     384     (4)
Isuzu 1.8 gas L4        311     (4)

Jaguar old design 6     ---
Jaguar new design 6     ---
Jaguar V12              680

Kawasaki H1R, H2R       120     (9)

Lamborghini/Chrysler    299     (8) (1992) V12 Formula One motor
Lincoln 430             740     (1) ('59) (also Mercury 430)
Lotus 907 (Esprit)      275     (3) (inc. alt. & starter, no clutch)

Marmon V-16             931     (2) (1931)
Mercedes SOHC V8 alum.  452     (2)
Mercedes SOHC V8 iron   540     (2)
Mercedes OM 615 Diesel  447     (16)
Mercury Marine 2000     331     (14) 200hp, 2 stroke, 142 CID, w/foot
Mercury Marine 1750     350     (14) 275hp, 2 stroke, 122 CID, w/foot
Mopar Slant Six         475
Mopar 273-340 "A" V8    525
Mopar 360 "A"           550
Mopar 361-383-400 V8    620     (5)
Mopar 413-426W-440 V8   670     (5) (10)
Mopar Street Hemi       765         (690 bare)

Nissan 240-300Z 6       ---
Nissan CA20 FWD         269     (4) belt cam
Nissan Z20 NAPS-Z 2.0   346     (4) RWD chain cam

Olds 215 V8             318         (same as Buick/Rover)
Olds 260 V8             ---
Olds 304 "Rocket" V8    671     (2) first Olds V8, 1949
Olds straight-8         614     (2) '40s motor
Olds 330 J2             700         (first generation V8)
Olds 330-400            560     (5) low deck, w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 350-403 V8         ---         '86-up lightweight design
Olds 394                725     (1) ('59)
Olds 371, 394           760     (5)
Olds 400-455            620     (5) high deck w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 455                605     (10)
Olds 262 V6 Diesel      590     (4) (from GM SAE paper)
Olds 260 Diesel         ---
Olds 350 Diesel         ---
Opel 2.8-3.0 CIH L6     395     (2)

Peugeot 204 Diesel      272     (11) SOHC, 45hp
Peugeot Douvrin 2.0 4   263     (2)
Peugeot 104 1400        260     (2) includes transaxle
Peugeot Indenor XD-90   415     (16) Diesel, aluminum head and sump
Pierce-Arrow V-12       1,130   (2) (1932)
Plymouth 361            640     (1) ('59)
Pontiac L4              350         Iron Duke, Tech IV
Pontiac Tempest slant 4 470
Pontiac SOHC 6          450
Pontiac 389 V8          650
Pontiac 389 V8          590     (1) ('59)
Porsche 4.7 SOHC V8     574
Porsche 901 6           401     (2) (1963)

Rambler 327 V8          600
Rambler 327 V8          670     (1) ('59)
Rover 3500 V8           318         (same as Buick)
Rover 3.0 SOHC L6       432     (2)
Renault 2.0 4 Douvrin   263     (2)
Renault 2.8 V6          375     (2) (also DeLorean, Peugeot, Volvo)
Renault EF-1            395     (2) (racing version of P-R-V V6)

SAAB V4-60              206     (2) (also Taunus, Ford)
SAAB slant-4            290     (2) (also Triumph)
Studebaker 289          650
Suzuki Cultus 3 cyl     139     (7) (Geo Metro, Chevy Sprint)

Triumph slant-4         290     (2) (also SAAB 99)
Triumph 2000 L6         403     (2) (Spitfire, 2.5 TRs)
Triumph Stag V8         446

VW flat-4 air cooled    200
VW flat-4 water cooled  ---
VW inline 4             ---         Rabbit/Golf


(1)  Handbook of Engine Swapping, John Thawley, 1960
(2)  Complete Handbook of Automotive Power Trains, Jan Norbye, 1981
(3)  Passenger Car Engines, papers, IMechE, 1975
(4)  New Light Duty Engines, SAE 510, 1982
(5)  Hot Rod Engines, Hot Rod, 1967
(6)  Aspects of Internal Combustion Engine Design, SAE 582, 1982
(7)  Popular Science, May 1984
(8)  Automotive Industries, June 1993
(9)  Cycle Magazine, Cook Neilson, "TDC" Feb 1990
(10) Street Rodder, Neal Muyleart, "Aluminum Manifold", Aug 1993
(11) Popular Science, March 1974
(12) Popular Science, September 1982
(13) Popular Science, May 1972
(14) Popular Science, April 1974
(15) Popular Science, December 1977
(16) Popular Science, November 1973
(17) Automotive Industries, July 1992
(18) Ford SVO V-6 Racing Engine Builder's Guide, 1992
(19) "Streamlining and Car Aerodynamics", Norbye, 1977
----------------------------------------------------------------------
                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 15:32:33 1994
Subject: Dyke's Automotive Encyclopedia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7752
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I found this in a dusty subdirectory the other day, with a timestamp
of late '92.  I think I originally intended it for this list, so bear
with me if you've seen it before.

----

 Having pity for my mania for a cheap homebuilt engine dyno, a friend
loaned me his 1940 edition of Dykes' Automotive Encyclopedia, which was
originally published in 1912.  The book has a description of a
homebuilt dyno using a fan, an electric dyno, and a Prony brake.

 The fan dyno was very interesting, but some figuring showed it would
be a tossup between whether the neighbors called the police over the
noise or it simply blew away neighboring houses.  An absorber that
will take 500hp isn't exactly easy.

 Anyway, flipping through the book has turned into a real trip.  It's
not really organized in encyclopedia fashion.  Frankly, it's not well
organized at all.  But the sections are clearly written and interesting.

"Overhauling Willys-Knight Sleeve Valve Engine."

"The Taximeter"  (how taxi meters work)

"Wheel Balance"  (how to build you own static balancer)

"The Model 'T' Ford:  General Description; Construction;
              Adjustments and Repairs"  (short T service manual)

a complete Model A service manual

70 pages of Index, plus 15 pages of index to supplements

how to pour and fit Babbitt bearings

bottom-end overhaul of an Olds 45-B engine - with fork-and-blade rods

nowadays cylinders are bored.  Nobody even thinks about any other way.
Back in the 1930s, some cylinders were ground.  Heck, they sometimes
reamed and honed, like Continental did.  The Dykes' book mentions that
when there are bosses on the cylinder wall or core shift, the wall will
not flex the same as a straight sleeve insert, therefore causing high
and low spots.  The Dykes' people preferred grinding the bores.

 Companies used to sell piston lathes.  When a cylinder was worn, you
bored it to whatever oversize you wanted, then turned down a generic
oversize piston to fit.

 How about a portable boring machine that bolted to the top of the
block?
Inline engines were sometimes bored while still in the chassis.

 How about electrically assisted brakes?  A company called Hartford made
them before 1940.

 Aircraft, tractor, stationary, motorcycle, heavy truck engines, old
time generators and wood-cased batteries, leather-lined clutches...
plus some really good stuff you don't see much.  I *like* it!
                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 15:43:48 1994
Subject: rolling road
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7753
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hello
I just discovered usenet and internet last week so if I am doing
the wrong thing please let me know. 

I am planning to build a '34 Ford, over the next few years !! using 'glass
body, box chassis, small block chev, ford 9 inch etc. 
Because Ford 9 inches are a little thin on the ground this side of the 
"pond" volvo 240 series axles are often the easiest choice however I am
sure a 9 inch would be better unless anyone knows different??

I would be interested to hear of other peoples experiences in building
such a rod and the best sources of information.

also

It is well known that the best way to set up your car is on a rolling road.
But not many people have these and it works out quite expensive.  I wonder
if it is possible to use a laptop computer to measure the rate of change
of engine revs over the rev range of interest, say 1500 to 5000 for a street
motor. Given that one could drive the car over the same stretch of road 
between adjustments this should be a reliable method if it is sensitive enough
to minor changes, eg cam timing.  

Some words of wisdom from the many experts in the group would be welcome.

-- 

Mel Leitch                          |
Newcastle upon Tyne                 | Old Fords never die - 
UK                                  | They just lay down their rubber !!

----------
Posted by: emory!newcastle.ac.uk!M.M.Leitch (M. Leitch)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 15:55:36 1994
Subject: Re: RX7 handling characteristics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7754
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

'The Hotrod List' writes:
>  It's time to do a little suspension work on my wife's '79 RX7.  At
> 140,000 miles practically everything is worn out.  It needs shocks,
> tierod ends, ball joints, bushings, and could probably stand new
> springs.
 
Sounds like my stepfather's, except his is closer to 200,000 miles,
and has the racing beat Holley 4bbl kit, header, presilencer, and
muffler.

>  Other than being pretty sloppy the car handles pretty much like it
> always has, and close enough to the other early RXs I've driven.  That
> is, mild understeer when entering a corner, changing to gee-whiz-I'm-
> spinning-like-a-top oversteer if you even *think* about getting on or
> off the gas.  It's fine to putz around with, but when you start to push
> the car hard it becomes annoying.  I've never driven anything that'd get
> tailhappy like the RX, and I *like* tailhappy cars, only I like 'em a
> little more predictable.
 
You have replaced the idler arm bushings, haven't you?  They are very
short lived.  I also had to replace the bushing at the top of the
steering shaft (under the combination switch assembly) not too long ago,
it had completely disintegrated.  The trailing throttle oversteer
problem seems to be greatly amplified by bad shocks, btw.

>  I've tinkered with the car before, and looked at the service manual.
> Plain old McPherson struts up front, live axle in back with Watts link
> and longitudinal locating links.  From a brief look I don't see what
> makes the car so damned tailhappy.
 
Weight balance has a lot to do with it...  I think its about 49/51.
I don't know what the rollcenters are like, though.  If nothing else,
the 4-link makes it a lot of fun to do burnouts :) (no wheel hop
whatsoever)


-- 
Jonathan R. Lusky  --  lusky@knuth.mtsu.edu
 "Turbos are nice but I'd rather be blown!"
   89 Jeep Wrangler - 258 / pile of junk!
       80 Toyota Celica - 20R / 5spd

----------
Posted by: emory!knuth.mtsu.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 16:04:36 1994
Subject: Re: Problems with Quadra Jet from 429CJ
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7755
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 
>  Real hot rodders spend as much on tools as they do on cars.  
> 
>  Now that I have a vertical mill, I keep casting an eye on CNC...  my
> wife has become a real problem too.  She wants me to build an English
> wheel, except I don't have anywhere to *put* the thing.  Pretty soon the
> place will be so full I won't have room to pull cars in.
>           

Next best thing to having a CNC is to have a best friend that owns a machine
shop with a couple of NC mills, a CNC lathe, collet lathe and assorted other
gizmos.   What a wonderful way to waste your life!!

> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
>  
> 
> 
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!halnet.com!vcook (Vic Cook 3068)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 16:13:59 1994
Subject: Re: O2 sensors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7756
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget this .. dime-a-dozen EGO sensors have a >300 msec response
> time and cannot detect transients ..
> 
> The good <100 msec EGO sensors cost upwards of $1000 

So, in other words, the new mixture sensors that you can buy in the
catalogs are nothing more than vague indicators of steady state mixture?
Sort of like a dampened vacuum gauge?
					
					Toen

[They're not that bad.  300 ms itself is pretty fast but the sensors
I've played with are much faster than that.  I've been experimenting
with ways to generate fast rise time "emission pulses" so as to 
measure the time constant of these things on the bench.  What I have
now is a chamber built of copper tubing in which I can explode a 
charge of air/fuel.  This still isn't fast enough, though I'm working
on it and am pretty close.  

The worst part about these sensors is that they are essentially toggle
devices.  They indicate rich, stoich, and lean and little more.
The wide range sensors are very expensive.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Toen Starkweather 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 16:27:23 1994
Subject: Re: ZZ3 350 HO
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7757
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
> >  would you please direct me to were you have seen the t56 6-speed for 1500-
> >1600, cause I haven't seen anything lower than 2700.

Here's a couple of sources that I've seen:

	Sallee Chevrolet
	1003 S. Main St.
	Milton-Freewater, OR 97862
	1-800-545-0048
	Price: $1550.00

	Scoggin-Dickey
	1-800-456-0211
	Price: $1695.00

----------
Posted by: emory!auspex.com!gdumpit (George Dumpit)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 23:09:01 1994
Subject: Re: Chrysler computers/Modifying
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7758
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>  I'm looking for information on the Chrysler SBECs, at least what
>kind of processor they use.  What I would love is information on how the prom 
>is coded (how the maps are stored) etc.

Does anyone have information on GM computers in general?  The low-levels are
a complete mystery, and I am having a hard time finding information on the
digital aspects of the computers on cars, especially the PROMs and processors.

-thanks

----------
Posted by: emory!cs.utexas.edu!haskett (Brian Scott Haskett)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 23:24:24 1994
Subject: Re: Dyke's Automotive Encyclopedia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7759
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Aircraft, tractor, stationary, motorcycle, heavy truck engines, old
>time generators and wood-cased batteries, leather-lined clutches...
>plus some really good stuff you don't see much.  I *like* it!

  Well, Dave, sounds just about right for one of your famed anthology
posts.  I've gotten the greatest kick from some of the stuff you've
come up with.  What was that thing you posted about the Buick Straight
Eight some time back?  I like that old stuff, too.

  Heck, I might see if I can find one of these Dyke's puppies in one
of the used bookshops with dusty old tomes lying in piles all over
the place.  Got lots of those around here.

  Ron "Curious" Rader

--
The vast percentage of sensitive, artistic intellectuals live in
dire fear of ever having to turn a fuggin' wrench!
						   - Robt. Williams

----------
Posted by: Ron Rader aka PTM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Feb 28 23:32:08 1994
Subject: Tube Frame
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7760
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Well, this sort of qualifies as a hotrodding topic. My street
car now wants to take to the sky. Actually, I'm looking into building
an ultra-light copter, and am looking into building a tube frame for
it. I haven't had much experience with frame tubing, and was
wondering if somebody could recommend a tubing type to use. I am
hoping to stay in the steel domain, as I don't have much aluminum
welding experience. I need a tubing that is a compromise between
strength and price. Also a source for tubing would also be
appreciated.

	(For those really concerned with my physical well-being,
I have a complete set of professional blue-prints, safety
admonishments, etc.)

	Any info appreciated...


						Jason

Experience varies directly with equipment ruined.

(jcborkow@eden.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!eden.rutgers.edu!Jason,"6=8",Borkowsky