From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan  1 03:39:46 1994
Subject: FI for 351c
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7282
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi.

Does anyone know if there are fuel injection systems for the 351 Cleveland?
How well do these things work?  (I've NEVER heard anything positive from
fitting aftermarket fuel injection systems to older vehicles).  Also,
does anyone know anything on the reliability and durability of such 
modifications? (this is never talked about in magazines).  I'd appreciate
any opinion and addresses of people to get in touch.    Thanks.

Waleed
khan@ee.ualberta.ca
'69 Mustang 351c-4v, quenched heads. 

----------
Posted by: emory!ee.ualberta.ca!khan (Waleed Khan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan  1 03:43:51 1994
Subject: Re: Ford FE Block Stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7283
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Dec 31,  1:12am, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: Ford FE Block Stuff
> Does anyone out there have any experience with using 427/428CJ components on a
> 390? I'm interested in possibly using the larger heads and crank on my soon to
> be rebuilt 390, and would like tospeak to someone who has some experience with
> this type of conversion.   Thanks!
> 					--Erik

Eric, reviewing a Ford performance publication titled "OFF HIGHWAY PARTS,
APPLICATIONS AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR FORD VEHICLES", specifically the chapter

titled "FE Engine Parts I.D. & Interchange", page 12, Head interchange:

  406-428CJ and 427LR heads will work with your 390 without any modifications.
427MR,427HR and 427TP heads will not work due to valve clearance problems.
The footnote specifically says "Physically fits, but notching breaks cyl walls."
Under crankshafts, page 16, Ford says "Technically, of course, you can use all FE cranks in any "performance application for they interchange because of identical main and rod journal diameters.  However, this invariably means non-production rods and pistons usage that causes imbalance.  Which is a minor problem and easily corrected."
Intake manifolds
"Since the block deck height(10.17") for all FE engines is the same, all FE intake manifolds physically interchange.  However, port dimensions vary.  Check to see how much refinishing is required to match ports.  This is generally possible for all head/manifold combinations, except 427 high riser and tunnel port pieces.  Each of these manifolds must be matched to its head."

Hope that helps.Cheers. Mike
 "

-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan  1 10:45:10 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7284
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
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I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
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I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
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Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan  2 05:19:26 1994
Subject: Re: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7285
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


> Crank shops use Mallory metal for adding mass to counterweights.  Best
>as I can tell, Mallory metal is a tungsten alloy, and rather expensive.

> I read somewhere that depleted uranium is used for control surface
>counterweights in some aircraft (seems rather bizarre to me) and as
>jacketing for some AP cannon shells.  These applications imply depleted
>uranium is available in commercial quantities.  If true, would it be a
>suitable replacement for tungsten in crank counterweights?  Can just any
>schmuck (like me) buy it?  Where?  Machining hazards?  Would the AEC
>knock my house down with a tank?
>                                                                                                                         
Yes, depleted Uranium is used in aircraft as counterweights.  Why does
that seem strange?  

BTW, the uranium in cannon shells isn't the jacket, it's the filler.
Goes like hell, then burns thru armor, steel, all sorts of stuff.


-- 
==========================================================================
decastro@netcom.com  Warning:  I am a trained professional.  No, Really! 
		     Do Not try this yourself - it could get ugly..
Richard A. De Castro - California, North America, Sol-3
==========================================================================

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!decastro (Richard A. De Castro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan  2 05:24:00 1994
Subject: Crane Cams "HI-6" ignition
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7286
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In my pile of vacation mail is a mag (Grassroots Motorsport) with an ad
from Crane Cams pushing their new HI-6 ignition, comparing it to the
MSD-6AL. In a nutshell, it does what the 6AL does, lists for half as
much, has a better rev limiter, dumps (up to) twice as much energy per
sequence, and uses a RISC processor instead of analog circuitry (might
not be a plus, you know?). 

So, has anyone actually seen one? Touched one? Used one? Analyzed one?

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan  2 19:41:00 1994
Subject: Re: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7287
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Yes, depleted Uranium is used in aircraft as counterweights.  Why
-> does that seem strange?

 Weight, mainly.  It seems to me that any control surface needing
counterweights to function would be poorly designed to start with.  But
I guess that's a topic for an airplane list.

Tungsten is some ferociously expensive stuff and hard to work too.  On
the other hand, I don't know that depleted uranium is good for anything.
I wondered if it might be less expensive than tungsten, but John says
it's pretty hard to get.  

[It's not hard to get per se, it just requires a license because it is a
component of THE BOMB.  Uncle Sammy doesn't particularly want to sell U
to people who want to make mushroom clouds.  There's a BUNCH of depleted
uranium around as the result of the weapons programs.  After all, the
U-235 content of natural uranium is only about 0.3 to 0.6% of the whole.
A bit of it is used as tampers and breeding blankets in nuclear weapons
and a bit more is used in nuclear reactor fuel but the bulk of it just
sits around in DOE storage facilities.  So once the license is procured
(and who worries about spending $500 on getting a license for a
bazillion dollar aircraft?), U is plentiful and cheaper than equivalent
heavy materials such as tungsten.  It has a few pesky properties such as
being pyrophoric which means it must be machined in an argon atmosphere
(it burns readily in nitrogen), it is harder'n hell which makes
machining difficult, and it tends to corrode, though a flash of nickel
handles that OK.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan  3 00:54:54 1994
Subject: address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7288
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Does anyone have the address of Ricardo Consulting Engineers in
England?
               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan  3 16:46:31 1994
Subject: Re: Ford FE Block Stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7289
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Well, all the FE internals, excepting some pistons, are interchangable.
even tho' this is your first engine an upgrade can be as simple as a 
stock rebuild.
use a 428 crank, your 390 rods, a set of Ford Power Parts pistons and
assemble a 410cid just like a stock engine. Of course without a 428 flywheel
or flexplate you MUST get the assembly balanced. Ford still sells a 428
flexplate, I had a very hard time picking up 428 flywheels, it can be done.
If you bore the block, most can go out to 4.130 (.080 over), you get into the
420's easily.
My 428 Galaxie is a '68 390 block with a .080 overbore and a 428SCJ crank.
100% stock Ford parts, no problem!
With the 3.98" stroke get a larger cam, the larger displacement will eat up
medium cams by 4000rpm's and leave it gasping for air up high.
I used a Crower solid cam #16357. 237/242 @.050 and .526/.537 lift
it pulls STRONG from ~2400 to over 6000
FE engines have a very good parts availability..
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1964 Galaxie XL 428 SCJ Auto
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 390 Tri-Power Auto
1967 1/2 ton Truck 406 Auto
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: MILLAM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan  3 17:37:12 1994
Subject: Re: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7290
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> component of THE BOMB.  Uncle Sammy doesn't particularly want to sell
-> U to people who want to make mushroom clouds.  There's a BUNCH of

 Waitaminnit.  High school physics was long ago, but I thought the
normal uranium was pretty well worthless; ie only the fancy stuff would
fizz?

[Unfortunately, most of what is common knowledge about atomic bombs is
wrong and is the product of the government's rather intense disinformation
campaign.  Here's a quick summary:

For weapons under about 3/4 megaton and excluding subsurface, deep
penetrating weapons, the typical design is the so-called "boosted implosion"
design.  This design uses multiple spheres of plutoninum surrounded by
high explosive and tamped with either natural or depleted uranium.  When
the weapon is detonated, the high explosives are fired to implode the 
plutonium.  After implosion but before the initiation of the chain reaction,
a small quantity of tritium/deuterium gas is injected under several thousand
pounds of pressure into the core.  Then an external neutron howitzer is
fired to initiate the reaction.  The fission completes in a few nanoseconds
and the conditions in the center of the pit are such that the 
tritium/deuturium undergo fusion reactions. (NOTE: this is NOT a hydrogen
bomb - little to no yield results from this.)  The fusions supply a very
intense flux of fast neutrons which then fast fission the natural uranium
blanket.  All this happens before the weapon casing disassembles.  Typically,
about 40% of the energy release is from the pit, up to perhaps 2% is from
the fusion booster and the rest is from the fission of the blanket/tamper.
BTW, for anyone who read Clancy's "Sum of all Fears", the mechanism of
tritium boosting is one of those details he intentionally mucked up
in order to assuage his conscience.

The basic hydrogen bomb consists of a small boosted fission trigger
stacked atop a cylinder of Lithium Deuteride (LiD).  A thick natural
uranium disk shields the LiD assembly from the thermal effects of the 
trigger.  A hole in the center allows neutrons through.  The center of
the LiD is filled with a plutonium rod.  The whole assembly is suspended
with dense rigid foam inside a thick walled natural uranium cylinder 
that serves as both a tamper and an X-ray reflector.  When the weapon is 
detonated, the bulk of the trigger's energy is released as soft X-rays.
These X-rays travel outward at the speed of light (the explosive effects
are over 10X slower).  They strike the walls of the tamper and spall off
an intense plasma, a plasma so dense that it will exert millions of psi
of pressure on anything it strikes.  At the same time, neutrons traveling
at about half the speed of light stream through the hole in the shield
and initiate bulk fission in the plutonium core of the LiD fusion cylinder.
The spacing is such that the Pu fission and the plasma wave arrive at the
LiD cylinder at the same time.  The plasma compresses inward and the 
fission reaction compresses outward while simultaneously the neutrons
liberated from the fission transmute the Li in the cylinder to tritium.
This compression initiates fusion in the (formerly) LiD cylinder.
The bulk of the energy released in this reaction is fast neutrons which
proceed outward and fast fission the natural uranium tamper/blanket.
This "single stage" design is good for up to about 1.5 megaton.
About 15-20% of the yield comes from the initiator, about 30-40% from
the fusion reaction and the rest from the fission of the tamper.
This design is sometimes referred to as a "fission-fusion-fission" device.

For higher yields, the fusion pits are simply stacked so that the first
one servers as the initiator for the second and so on.  Both our and
the Soviet high yield (up to 10 megaton) weapons are 3 stage weapons,
that is, three LiD fusion assemblies.  Oh, and to answer a common
question, the Dial-A-Yield facility, whereby the weapons officer
can select the bomb's yield before delivery, simply varies the 
amount of Du/T injected into the trigger.  This varies the yield
of the trigger which varies the yield of the fusion package, etc.

More modern designs use X-ray mirrors to focus the energy from much smaller
yield triggers on the LiD fusion package.  How these mirrors are made
are still highly classified so I can't talk about it.  Probably freely
available in the literature, however :-) JGD]

-> (and who worries about spending $500 on getting a license for a
-> bazillion dollar aircraft?), U is plentiful and cheaper than

 I've seen Mallory metal priced at $50 to $100 per inch for 1" bar.
If you ran a crank shop you'd use a lot of stuff doing strokers,
internal balancing, etc.  Does the license restrict what you do with the
metal?  Specifically, would it prohibit selling cranks with slugs of
uranium in them?

[Yes, the license requires you to account for any SNM you might possess.
The auditing process is commonly referred to as Safeguards.  Several
companies, D.S. Davidson among them, make portable Safeguards monitors
whereby an inspector can examine a cache of SNM and by analyzing the 
gamma ray spectrum with some proven heuristics, can determine with
great accuracy how much SNM is present.  If you built a crankshaft
using an SNM as a balancing weight, your customer would also have to
be licensed and would have to submit to Safeguards.  That means 
that when the engine blows up and the U burns up, he's gonna have to
account for where it went.  If you observe that this is structured
to discourage ownership of said material, you would be correct.  JGD]

-> heavy materials such as tungsten.  It has a few pesky properties such
-> as being pyrophoric which means it must be machined in an argon
-> atmosphere (it burns readily in nitrogen), it is harder'n hell which
-> makes machining difficult, and it tends to corrode, though a flash of
-> nickel handles that OK.  JGD]

 My Machinery's Handbook doesn't mention all that neat stuff.  
Seriously, is it more likely to catch fire than aluminum or magnesium?
Would directing argon at the cutting edge be sufficient, or would it
require a chamber, like welding titanium?

[More likely.  Uranium is really strange stuff.  Plutonium even more so.
There are a pair of thick books still in print called "The Metallurgy of 
{Uranium, Plutonium}" that detail all the weirdnesses.  Both metals
exist in numerous allotropes and the transition from one to the other
can be fairly energetic.  I don't know if an argon purge on the 
cutting tool would be enough or not.  I do know that the government's 
machining centers that I've seen are contained either in argon glove boxes 
or in tents.  JGD]

 I never considered corrosion, but I guess you're right, since uranium's
"natural" form is an oxide.


 Considering the way today's safety nazis act, half the government would
probably shit bricks if someone actually used uranium in a crank, but I
have this curiosity problem...
                           
[Me too :-)  For strictly practical reasons, I'm not sure I'd want to 
try to use U.  I have a small square of depleted U.  This stuff is 
as hard as a rock.  A carbide scribe will mar the surface but not much.
About the only way I've found to cut it is to fracture off a chunk and
even that takes some effort.  Nuclear properties aside, it is not a friendly
metal.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan  3 17:44:49 1994
Subject: NGK
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7291
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Anyone have the number for NGK.

I have 310-371-6499 but it is no longer connected.

Thanks
Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan  3 18:05:17 1994
Subject: Re: address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7292
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>
> Does anyone have the address of Ricardo Consulting Engineers in
>England?
>               

Ricardo North America
7850 Grant St
Burr Ridge, IL 60521
(708) 789-0003

The home office is 
Ricardo Consulting Engineers Ltd.
West Sussex, UK

Sorry, couldn't find a telephone #.

Jeff

----------
Posted by: "Jeff Giordano" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan  3 18:10:29 1994
Subject: chopping coil springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7293
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'd try chopping your existing springs.  The spring rate will increase after
you chop 'em.

The best way is with a thin abrasive wheel.  If all you have is a 3" 25,000
rpm cut-off tool, you could make several cuts in a "v" pattern (like you were
chopping down a tree with an axe).  You only need to go about half way
through.  Once you're half way through, hit the waste side with a big hammer
or drop it on a cement floor, and it'll shatter cleanly the rest of the way
through.  

If you do some bending with a torch, you'll lose the tempering wherever it
gets cherry red.  I might be wrong, but from what I remember, you're supposed
to throw the red-hot steel into a bath of oil if you want to keep the steel
"springy".  Water will make the steel "hardened".  The faster you cool it,
the harder it gets.  Oil cools it slower than water.  Cooling it in air would
leave it pretty soft.

Depending on what the spring seat looks like, maybe it wouldn't matter
whether the last third or half a coil was tempered anyway.  Don't heat up the
coil anymore than necessary, or you risk screwing it up completely.

I think I would get under the car (full tank of gas and junk in the trunk)
and use a tape measure to figure out the spacing between coils under load. 
If you know that, it should be easy to figure out how much to cut.  If
they're spaced say 1.5", and you want to lower it 1.5", then cut off one
turn.  Remember to leave whatever extra you may need to bend a flat if you
need one on the last half turn or whatever.

Good luck.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 08:39:28 1994
Subject: Re: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7294
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Waitaminnit.  High school physics was long ago, but I thought the
-> normal uranium was pretty well worthless; ie only the fancy stuff
-> would fizz?
>
> [Unfortunately, most of what is common knowledge about atomic bombs
> is wrong and is the product of the government's rather intense
> disinformation campaign.  Here's a quick summary:

 [very interesting description deleted]

 Yeah, but all three processes you mentioned are based on plutonium,
not uranium.  I think I'm even more confused.  Ah, well, I guess it
doesn't matter that much.


-> great accuracy how much SNM is present.  If you built a crankshaft
-> using an SNM as a balancing weight, your customer would also have to
-> be licensed and would have to submit to Safeguards.  That means

 Well, that blows the whole thing out of the water.  No way cool
depleted uranium counterweights for me, I guess.
                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 08:45:12 1994
Subject: Re: address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7295
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Ricardo North America
-> 7850 Grant St

 Well, dang!  Thanks!
  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 08:48:17 1994
Subject: Corvette RIS into F-body?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7296
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi, anybody thought about built a Camaro with a Vette rear independant 
suspension system, connected front and rear subframe, or maybe a moved V8 
one feet backward. Ya, a Vette with an "F" body(and it has to be a '81 Z-28 
style, my taste). Just an idear.  Maybe it will be my dream project in the
year 2000. 

Jizhong

----------
Posted by: emory!MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU!HJZ
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 08:53:32 1994
Subject: Re: address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7297
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> 
>  Does anyone have the address of Ricardo Consulting Engineers in
> England?
>                
This is how it appears in the June 1993 AE Worldwide Manufacturers
Directory:

RICARDO
 CONSULTING
 ENGINEERS LTD.
Bridge Works,
 Shoreham by Sea
West Sussex, England
 BN32 5FG


--
     lusky@jackatak.raider.net (Jon Lusky)
------------jackatak.raider.net   (615) 377-5980 ------------

----------
Posted by: Jon Lusky 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 15:43:08 1994
Subject: Re: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7298
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

JGD:

>Unfortunately, most of what is common knowledge about atomic bombs is
>wrong and is the product of the government's rather intense disinformation
>campaign.  Here's a quick summary:  [surprising burse of knowledge deleted]

  John, I'm surprised you haven't applied this knowledge to the old
Lawnmowers From Hell thread.  Bet you could come up with one hell of
a stump chewer ;) .

  Ron "Well, I Enjoyed It Anyway" Rader

[ :-)  Well I always have regarded nukes as simply hotrod firecrackers :-)
Only problem is getting and keeping the goodies.  I once worked on a 
helicoptor-borne instrument used by NEST that could detect a kg of plutonium
in a 100 ft deep well while the helo was flying over the area at full tac.  
I figured that I'd never have the opportunity to collect a critical mass
or live to tell about it.  On the other hand, what a show it would be!
Imagine my little firecracker set off in front of 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue :-)
JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 15:49:26 1994
Subject: Temperature Guage
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7299
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I recently replaced the the water temp guage in my car with a mechanical unit
from Auto Meter.  The guage that I took out had no numbers on the face, just
the words "cold, normal and hot".  The AutoMeter guage has a 270 degree sweep
going from 140 to 280.  My question concerns how to map the numbers on the
new gauge to the corresponding values on the old.  I am especially interested
in finding out what would be considered "in the red"

The engine is a '78 Chevy 350 with a 195 degree thermostat. 
--



       ________
      /______ /    
            //
        __ //_          Paul Richer
       /__ __/          paulr@lsid.hp.com
         //             Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
        //______
       /_______/


----------
Posted by: Paul A. Richer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 17:29:46 1994
Subject: Re: address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7300
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> This is how it appears in the June 1993 AE Worldwide Manufacturers
-> Directory:

 I could've sworn I looked for it there a couple of years ago and didn't
find it.  I'm going senile, I am...
 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 17:39:02 1994
Subject: TH350 tranny slips 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7301
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Hi-

I dont want to waste to much bandwidth so I`ll get right to it.
The problem is that the trans slips out of 3rd gear back into second.    The 
TH350 is 1977-78 vintage.   I checked the fluid, it was down a quart, the
previous time I checked, it was fine, I figured the fluid got sucked out the
modulator.   Anyway I checked the vac lines, found a nice crack in one.
So I replaced the vac lines, and the modulator valve: but the slipping problem 
still persists.   I usally do the most the work on my own cars, except for the 
tranny, which always seemed a little like a black box, so I need some help 
in identifing what the problem is, and the best way to fix it.

The clues:

     *	The trans seems to slip out of 3rd gear back into 2nd at lower
	RPM's: at under 40MPH on city streets.   This is usally a gentle
	slip: no jerking or hard shift feel (as if I pop it into 2nd via
	the shifter)

     *	Today, for the first time, it occured when I backed off the gas
	on the down side of hills on the highway (at around 70MPH  :)

     *	I havent really noticed it occuring when the car is cold.

     *	There is usally no problem at freeway speeds, (except for today).

     *	I have a 35 mile (each way) commute.  On the way home, after 
	29 (so far) slip-free miles on the freeway: the worst slipping 
	occurs on the surface streets only 2 or 3 miles from home.

     *	It usally wont shift back into 3rd right away, but quickly bumping
	into 2nd then right back into 3rd, results in an immediate shift
	up into 3rd

     *	The engine does a bunch of pinging, all at once, for a split second
	(only) when I accelerate from a stop.   This is weird cuz the car
	usally *never* pings.

     *	When the vac line was cracked, the went into first and reverse REAL
	lightly: especially into reverse (like sloooooowwly easing out the
	clutch on a manual).   But after the vac line replacement, it feels
	quite solid.

These are all I can think of.

I greatly appreciate any help you guys can give me.   I would like to do
it myself, but if it is a big problem I may have to take it to the shop for
the sake of time (this is my commute-mobile), if this is the case at least
I'll know the cause, and I'll avoid getting raped.

Thank you, and Happy New Year!

	-Bill (wdwhitak@grissom.jpl.nasa.gov)


    The Heartbeat of America...                                       
                              __________            
         #     #####         |          |               #####   #######
       ##    #     # ________|   1967   |___________  #     #  #    #
     # #    #     # /                              / #            #
      #     ###### /       C H E V R O L E T      / ######      #
     #          # /__________            ________/ #     #    #
    #    #     #             |  CAMARO  |         #     #    #
 #####   #####               |__________|         #####     #
                                                                     
                                          ...Yesterdays Chevrolet    

----------
Posted by: emory!kilroy.jpl.nasa.gov!wdwhitak (Bill)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 19:24:02 1994
Subject: Re: TH350 tranny slips 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7302
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu




In article <2gcl78$d3m@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> wdwhitak@kilroy.jpl.nasa.gov (Bill)
writes:

>I dont want to waste to much bandwidth so I`ll get right to it.
>The problem is that the trans slips out of 3rd gear back into second.    The
>TH350 is 1977-78 vintage.   I checked the fluid, it was down a quart, the
>previous time I checked, it was fine, I figured the fluid got sucked out the
>modulator.   Anyway I checked the vac lines, found a nice crack in one.
>So I replaced the vac lines, and the modulator valve: but the slipping problem
>still persists.   I usally do the most the work on my own cars, except for the
>tranny, which always seemed a little like a black box, so I need some help
>in identifing what the problem is, and the best way to fix it.


I have a book that goes into detail about trouble shooting a TH350.  I'll
check on it tonight.

>From your description though, it sounds like you have a leak in one of your
valve body gaskets.  These can be replaced but are a pain in the butt.

How many miles are on the transmission?  It may be time for an overhaul 
anyways.   But, if you want to prolong the life as much as possible, I suggest
installing a good shift kit when you drop the valve body.  A good one will
come with complete instructions and warnings.
It will minimize wear on your clutch plates by shifting much faster and
stronger.

Have you EVER had any work done on  your transmission?

Also remember (since your fluid was low)  that the fluid is the life of
the transmission.  So many problems can result if you are low on fluid.
That should always be the first thing you check, and it is crucial to maintain
enough fluid.

A way to be sure that it is a leaky valve body gasket is to take off the valve
body and gaskets and inspect them.   They have imprints of all the passages
after being used, and it is pretty easy to tell if there is a leak.
Check for uniform imprints, and also heavy sludge build up in the valve body.

When was the last time you changed the fluid/ filter?


steve

----------
Posted by: emory!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!sorlin (Steven J Orlin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan  4 19:35:17 1994
Subject: Re: TH350 tranny slips 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7303
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Bill (wdwhitak@grissom.jpl.nasa.gov) asks about a T350:
>The problem is that the trans slips out of 3rd gear back into second.    The 
>TH350 is 1977-78 vintage.   I checked the fluid, it was down a quart, the
>previous time I checked, it was fine, I figured the fluid got sucked out the
>modulator.

If the modulator is bad then you will lay down a smoke screen that
you can be proud of :-).  Since you didn't mention smoke I will guess
that the modulator diaphragm is OK even though the engine knocking
suggests new deposits in the combustion chambers.  Did you find
any oil in the vacuum line(s) or the intake manifold?  If so, the
modulator diaphragm is suspect.

How many miles on the tranny?  My experience is that a T350 will
go about 60K - 90K miles and then start to disassemble itself.
It does so by generating little metal chips which get into all
the parts of the tranny and which will cause all sorts of strange
shifting behavior.  By the time the symptoms are this far along
you already have major internal damage and the tranny needs a
complete and thorough overhaul, or it needs to be replaced.

Did you pull the pan and look at the fluid, the filter, and the
deposits in the pan?  The fluid should smell OK, like new fluid,
and it should be red, not brown.  Burned fluid will have a bad
smell, almost bad enough to knock you down.  The filter should
be an even color, a bit darker than when new.  There should be
no metal particles in it.  The pan should have a small amount of
deposits in a few places.  These deposits should be a metallic
paste and should be non-magnetic.  If there are metal chips or
particles in the pan then you have trouble.  You should find that
everything inside the trans has a thin, dark coating on it.  This
coating is ash from the fluid that burns every time a clutch
engages and is a normal product of transmission operation.  It
wipes off easily with rag and doesn't cause any problems by itself.
The fluid should be non-frothy.  Frothy fluid frequently means
that the heat exhanger in the radiator is leaking and is allowing
the coolant to mix with the tranny fluid.  This is bad news because
the coolant is very destructive of the friction material on the
clutch faces.  If any coolant gets into the trans it WILL need a
complete overhaul or replacement.

The T350 uses a clutch pack to shift from 2nd to 3rd gear.  If
the pressure to the clutch pack is low or intermittent then
the trans will shift between 3rd and 2nd.  If the pressure is low
then it is possible that the plates are only being weakly applied
and that increasing the throttle will cause the partly engaged
plates to slip.  This will rapidly burn the plates.

Low pressure can be caused by lots of things including a bad pump,
obstructions in the oil path(s), defective modulator, chips stuck
in valves, seals which are cut, torn or hard, and lots of other
things.  If you have access to a pressure gauge, try driving the
car with the gauge connected to the line plug on the trans.
WOT pressure should be about 150 PSI in 1st or 2nd gear positions,
and it should be about 60 PSI cruising in 3rd.  Careful monitoring
of the pressure combined with an understanding of the hydraulics
of the trans will allow you to diagnose many problems without even
pulling the pan.

Metal chips and particles can get into the governor and will
cause bizarre shifting behavior.  In really bad cases the
trans may start out in 2nd or 3rd gear because the governor
is internally leaking fluid due to particles.

If the trans is in bad shape then it may be more cost effective
to replace it with a good used T400.  Try to get a T400 that
has cast pistons and a sprag intermediate clutch.  These were
roughly 1968-1973(?) manufacture.  A T400 made with the good
parts is virtually indestructible.  It differs from the T350
in length, rear mount location (needs a different crossmember),
and kickdown activation.  The T400 uses an electrical connection
for kickdown and this is powered from a switch activated by the
throttle.  The T350 uses a cable to the carb's throttle lever.
The drive shaft will have to be shortened or replaced with one
for a T400.  The T400 came in several different tail housing
designs.  Usually you want the short one (it has a C on the
casting) because this one is only slightly longer than the
T350.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 01:39:45 1994
Subject: Re: TH350 tranny slips 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7304
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



In article <2gcl78$d3m@elroy.jpl.nasa.gov> wdwhitak@kilroy.jpl.nasa.gov (Bill)
writes:
>
>Hi-
>
>I dont want to waste to much bandwidth so I`ll get right to it.
>The problem is that the trans slips out of 3rd gear back into second.    The
>TH350 is 1977-78 vintage.   I checked the fluid, it was down a quart, the
>previous time I checked, it was fine, I figured the fluid got sucked out the
>modulator.   Anyway I checked the vac lines, found a nice crack in one.
>So I replaced the vac lines, and the modulator valve: but the slipping problem
>still persists.   I usally do the most the work on my own cars, except for the
>tranny, which always seemed a little like a black box, so I need some help
>in identifing what the problem is, and the best way to fix it.


I checked my book, and couldn't find your problem anywhere in the trouble
shooting section as a common one.

However, I would almost bet money that either you have a few valve body
bolts loose, or the gasket is leaking.

If you replace the gaskets and still have the problem, you may want to check
the gear on the governor.  Check to make sure the stake pin isn't damaged,
and the teeth are all there.  Also check to make sure that the valve moves
freely in the governor assembly.  To do this, hold the governor by the gear
with two fingers with the weights hanging straight down.  Squeeze them slowly
together with your other hand, and watch to see the valve move slowly upward.

If it doesn't, it is stuck.

It is also possible that you have a tremendous sludge buildup in the valve body
causing the problem.

I suggest that you buy a medium duty shift kit with spacer plates and gaskets,
and a new filter.  Change all the fluid while you're there, and clean
the valve body thoroughly.  Also check to make sure it's not warped or cracked.
While it's off, check to make sure that the aluminum mating part on the case
is not cracked, and all the passages unclogged.  Also check it for warpage.

When you remove the valve body, you should be very careful.  Little check
balls may fall out at you.  But don't fear, they are easy to put back, just
don't lose them.

Good Luck.

Transmission work isn't hard.  Just make sure you take your time, and have
a clean place to work.



steve

----------
Posted by: emory!magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu!sorlin (Steven J Orlin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 12:42:51 1994
Subject: Corrosion prevention
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7305
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In the book titled "Rust" a corrosion preventing oil "Consol Clear" was
mentioned. It supposedly is availalble at boat shops, but I can't find it
locally. 

Does anyone know a source?

----------
Posted by: emory!aol.com!libbill
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 12:47:25 1994
Subject: carter 2bbl rebuilt, need help!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7306
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

greetings:
  help!  i made the mistake of believing the holly rebuild directions
when i rebuilt the carter 2bbl on my dodge 225 cube slant 6 (listed as a
bbd 1&1/4 solid fuel carb).  i did not save the previous measurements,
and now it runs like excrement.  i'm going on the assumption that i was
sold the proper kit (there was no tag w/ the application information, so
the carb guy did a partial disassemble and pronounced it to be a solid
fuel type & looked up the part number).  could this be a subtle
marketing ploy from holley?  (let's see... if they rebuild their carb
and it runs even worse, they will probably buy a new carb, and perhaps
we can sell them one... :)      (: please note the smiley... :)
 
what changed (all set to their 'proper' gaps/sizes/...)
 - metering rod allen-head depth screw
 - all linkage lengths (choke unloader & fast idle linkage)
 - float level
 - accelerator pump and metering rod settings
 - idle screw (almost all the way in!  can't get fast idle screw down)
 - all the gaskets :)
 - the accelerator pump (sprint, checkball, rod & flexible skirt)
 
the symptoms are:
  at book advance (12 btdc)
 - stumbles badly off idle (regardless of accelerator pump setting)
 - plugs seem to foul (one or more cyl's drop out, return at hi rev)
 - could not get better than 15 inches of vac
 - does *not* run hot (just into operating range on cold side)
 - pulled a plug & it looked fouled
 - venting a manifold vac line to lean the mix made it worse, not better
 - leakes fuel at top of float-bowl gasket (listed as airhorn gasket)
 
  at greater advance (3 btdc)
 - stumbles off idle
 - has many flat spots at lower rpm, runs fine from about 2000 rpm & up
 - vac up to 18 inches
 - consumes gobs of fuel (now at less than 10 mpg!)
 - does *not* run hot (just into operating range on cold side)
 - leakes fuel at top of float-bowl gasket (listed as airhorn gasket)
 
things the directions wanted me to set, but i couldn't find (believed to
be later model polution control devices) :
 - idle enrichment assembly (diaphragm & spring)
 - bowl vent valve, lever & assembly
 - dashpot (or dashpot contact point on throttle lever)
 - throttle position transducer (or bracket therefor)
 - egr pump valve adjuter/switch thing (or lever)
 
  the car is presently set for 3 btdc (timing) and i nurse it to and
from work.  i'd prefer not to have to rebuild the silly thing again,
but i have to get it working better.  any clues as to what to do to the
silly thing (besides take it out behind the barn and shoot it :) ?
  what could be wrong?  i've adjusted the accelerator pump every which
way and the metering rods seem to have little effect.  could the fuel
leak (weepage) be from a poorly set float level? (the screws don't gt
any tighter)  why does the timing advance mask some of the problems?
 
thanks (in advance (is there another kind>))
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 12:53:49 1994
Subject: Building a 383 SBC
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7307
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

X-News: clstac alt.hotrod:4125

>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject:Building a 383 SBC
>Date: Wed, 29 Dec 93 18:34:05 GMT
>Message-ID:

>
>I am planning to rebuild a 350 engine to put into my project car.  Since I am
>going to be replacing all the internals anyway, I thought it might be
>worth considering stroking the engine at the same time.
>
>I would like to get some information about building a 383 Chevy SB.  I know
>that this basically entails installing a crank from a 400 CI (along w/
>flywheel and harmonic balancer) into a 350 block, but I am looking for
>some more specific information like: Which rods to use?, Which pistons,
>What's a good cam?, any clearance problems to watch out for?  Other 
>potential problem areas?
>
>Any pointers to books or magazine articles that cover this conversion as well
>as your responses are appreciated.
>
>BTW, the car is a '71 Datsun 240Z that already has a (stock) 350 installed.
>
>
>
>       ________
>      /______ /    
>            //
>        __ //_          Paul Richer
>       /__ __/          paulr@lsid.hp.com
>         //             Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
>        //______
>       /_______/
>
>----------
>Posted by: Paul A. Richer 

There is an older issue of Hot Rod magazine that covers this.  Don't hold me to
this, but I think it is the June '91 or '92 issue.  It is entitled "Smart money
shootout...Small block vs. Big block.

Scott


----------
Posted by: emory!CSUPomona.Edu!CVADRGAY
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 13:47:53 1994
Subject: Cast crank strength
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7308
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Relay-Version: ANU News - V6.1 08/24/93 VAX/VMS; site nic.csu.net
Path: vmsb.is.csupomona.edu!cvadrgay
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod
Subject: Cast crank strength
Message-ID: <1994Jan4.225114.1@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu>
From: cvadrgay@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu
Date: 4 Jan 94 22:51:14 PST
Organization: California State Polytechnic University, Pomona
Nntp-Posting-Host: acvax2
Nntp-Posting-User: cvadrgay
Lines: 14

I need several educated opinions...
Do you think a cast Chevy 400 crank in a 350 block will survive 7250 RPM?
I am planning to use it in a 4x4 truck with a 240/250 int/exh @.050 cam.
How about scrapping a 383 for a 400 block?  Are there advantages?
Does the 400 block use the same motor mount locations and tranny bolt patterns
as the 350 block?
Your educated opinions are greatly appreciated.

Scott
CVADRGAY@CSUPOMONA.EDU

And yes, I do feel like an intruder in this DIXIE.COM-dominated board.  Sorry.


----------
Posted by: emory!nic.CSU.net!"cvadrgay@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu"
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 13:52:33 1994
Subject: Re: TH350 tranny slips 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7309
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 The TH350 uses a throttle position cable for kickdown. If this is mis-
adjusted, or your engine is requiring extra pedal to get down the road,
you may be set up to dither. You might try letting a little slack into
the cable and see if part throttle cruise behavior settles down. Also
be triple-dog-sure that there're no vacuum leaks or disconnects in the
modulator vacuum feed. You can check the modulator integrity with the
wet thumb test (clean piece of hose highly recommended).

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 13:58:49 1994
Subject: Re: Temperature Guage
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7310
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article @dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>
>I recently replaced the the water temp guage in my car with a mechanical unit
>from Auto Meter.  The guage that I took out had no numbers on the face, just
>the words "cold, normal and hot".  The AutoMeter guage has a 270 degree sweep
>going from 140 to 280.  My question concerns how to map the numbers on the
>new gauge to the corresponding values on the old.  I am especially interested
>in finding out what would be considered "in the red"
>
>The engine is a '78 Chevy 350 with a 195 degree thermostat. 

OK, how about this;

Cold      : -150
Normal    : 150-230
Hot (red) : 230-

This is approx how my gauge is graded ('75 Chevy 350. 180 dgr thermostat).

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 14:03:20 1994
Subject: Performance alignment
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7311
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi, in my neverending quest for the perfect Camaro I'm now in the
process off improving handling. The car is a '75 LT w/ 350. What
I have done sofar is:

Stiffer sway bars, lowered 1 1/2", stiffer springs, polyurethane
bushings and gas shocks.

I would like to thank all of you who helped me with my questions
regarding cutting of the front springs. It turned out that flattening
of the bottom of the spring was not necessary, it seats OK anyway.

Time has now come to front end alignment. There are three adjustments
possible: Camber, Caster and Toe. The factory settings are

+1    dgr Camber
+1/2  dgr Caster
-1/16 "   Toe (=Toe in)

I read in the September issue of car craft that for better handling 
this should be changed to

-3/4   dgr Camber
+3 1/2 dgr Caster
+1/16  "   Toe (=Toe out)

I would like to hear some pros and cons on modifying the different 
alignments. As I remember it it was something like this:

Less Camber 

Pros: Better cornering
Cons: Heavier steering, Unstable at high speed

More Caster

Pros: More stable at high speed
Cons: heavier steering

More Toe:

Pros: Dunno
Cons: Dunno  

 
Please add to this list.

Thanks

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 15:35:36 1994
Subject: Re: TH350 tranny slips 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7312
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Bob, very informatinve tutorial on the TH350/400.  This info is
definately a keeper.

thnx-Bill

----------
Posted by: Bill Ingram 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 15:43:13 1994
Subject: Re: Ford FE Block Stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7313
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Mike, thanks a lot for all the help! I'll have to check out that book for muself...it soulds like just what I need. 
     Anyway, thanks again--the info really helped! I'll be in toch!    gugh
					--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 15:47:33 1994
Subject: 400 in 4x4
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7314
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

About eight years ago, I was at the drag races at Fremont, and they had the
original "Big Foot" monster truck doing exhibition car crushing.  I was
looking at the truck in the pits and wound up talking to the guys that built
it.  They said the engine was a 500hp 400 small block.  As far as I know, all
the 400s had cast cranks, so it was probably cast.  They must have cranked up
a lot of rpms to get the 500 hp.

Actually, I don't know for sure it was "Big Foot", but it was the one that
could do four wheel steering.  It could drive diagonally or make super small
circles.  The engine sounded pretty nice, and I was surprized to find out it
was a 400.  They got the axles from some military vehicle.

Just some trivial info.Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 17:42:56 1994
Subject: Re: 400 in 4x4
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7315
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Jan 5, 15:19, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: 400 in 4x4
> the 400s had cast cranks, so it was probably cast.  They must have cranked up
> a lot of rpms to get the 500 hp.
>

I think it was supercharged.

-Bob

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan  5 17:47:34 1994
Subject: Peaks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7316
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I just finished looking over an article of the new Bugatti (sp?).  It seems
to be a sweet car.  The engine is a 3.5 liter V-12 with 4 turbos.  Anyways
I'll get to my question:

 The peak horsepower is a 8000 RPM (552 I believe), but the peak torque is
at 3800 or so (480ish).  Most everything I've every seen has the peaks rather
close to each other in the RPM range.  Is haveing such a difference a useful
thing?  How is it accomplished?  Thanks.

Tom McClendon
gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan  6 10:04:05 1994
Subject: Markus's front-end alignment
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7317
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

As far as toe-in goes, you might be able to get by with zero toe.

The toe in on a stock car is there to make up for the slop in the suspension
(the slack in all the joints).  Since your car has tighter bushings and
everything, you probably don't have much slop at all.  So, you probably need
no toe, or at least less toe than a stock one.

Getting the toe just right should help the tread-life of your front tires.

Just my opinion,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan  6 10:09:32 1994
Subject: Re: Peaks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7318
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  The peak horsepower is a 8000 RPM (552 I believe), but the peak torque is
> at 3800 or so (480ish).  Most everything I've every seen has the peaks rather
> close to each other in the RPM range.  Is haveing such a difference a useful
> thing?  How is it accomplished?  Thanks.

It is "accomplished" by having the torque stay strong (not tail off
very quickly) for about 4200 rpm. And yes, it is quite useful to have
a wide, strong torque curve. After all, you can't feel power. It's the
torque that kicks you in the fanny when you romp the gas pedal.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan  6 10:45:51 1994
Subject: Re: Performance alignment 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7319
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In message you write:

>
>I would like to hear some pros and cons on modifying the different 
>alignments. As I remember it it was something like this:
>
>Less Camber 
>
>Pros: Better cornering
>Cons: Heavier steering, Unstable at high speed

	Actually, probably doesn't make the steering any heavier, and the
steering is only twitchy on uneven surfaces (on a crowned road, will pull
more; if the road has "ruts" in it things can get *real* twitchy if you
have insane camber; i.e. more than two negative)
Another con: poor tire wear on inside of tire

>
>More Caster
>
>Pros: More stable at high speed
Another pro: dials in more negative camber, but only in the corners
where you need it.  

>Cons: heavier steering
BFD.

>
>More Toe:
>
>Pros: Dunno
a little bit of toe-out will make the "turn in" crisper.

>Cons: Dunno 

too much toe will scrub off speed in the corners and the straights.
 
>
> 
>Please add to this list.
>
>Thanks
>
>Markus
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
> 
>
>

	The suggested settings sound pretty good to me, and not too
excessive in any direction (very streetable).  You might bump up
the caster a bit more, and only start out with a half a degree
negative.  Cars that need lots of negative camber are ones with
sloppy rubber bushings that deflect under load; your poly bushings
should help out with that problem

--Ken

----------
Posted by: "Ken R. Dye" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan  6 15:44:36 1994
Subject: 400cub Smallblock Chevy
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7320
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Scott, Paul,

I've read plenty of articles and friends of mine plenty of cars.
We have built motors, motors, motors, and motors. It has been a lot
of fun, but until recently I qq

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan  6 15:54:52 1994
Subject: smallblock chevy
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7321
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Scott, Paul,

I've ready plenty of stories, worked on plenty of cars, help many
a friends work on cars, but until recently all I wanted to do was
built different motors. 

Since the BIG THREE started selling brand new out of the box "crate"
motors I decided forget the glory lets drive these things!
I know that is all the fun. Going to the machine shop arguing with the
machinist, getting to work unexperienced counter persons, back and forth,
back and forth, back and forth, seems like the time is never put into the
equation. Maybe that is the all the fun.

Not anymore in my book. Time is to precious to run around. Besides
I want to drive these cars not work on them.

Now I know that GM and Ford have both new and remanufactured engines available
in many forms. I think you can buy a new 350 bored to a 383 with aluminum
heads (from the Corvette) for about $3800 to 4000 price range. It is about
400hp to 450hp range. This is brand new oil pan, to manifold to HEI.
Really this the best way to go. Drop it in turn the key and bingo new
high performance engine with a warranty ready to go. 

Just think hours of adjusting, wrenching, sweating, traded in for driving!

Anyway check your local dealerships if your interested it mitght be
the way to go.

See ya later
Michael P. Quinn

My opinions are mine and nobody else's....

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan  6 16:04:06 1994
Subject: Peaks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7322
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Tom,

I'm new at this, hope I don't screw it up!

A wide torque curve(power band, whatever) is useful on the street because
you drive at varying rpms.  This way you get a response no matter when you
hit the gas.

In a dragster you want to have the highest possible horse power rating and
then gear the car to stay at that rpm level as much as possible.

Hope this helps,

Greg
INET curlesg@ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu

----------
Posted by: emory!ctrvax.Vanderbilt.Edu!CURLESG
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan  7 01:46:12 1994
Subject: Crane HI-6 ignition
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7323
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I called Crane, they faxed me the glossy on the new box. My OCR
software failed miserably on it, so I retyped it; it's attached at the bottom.

My particular application is old British cars with Lucas points
distributors. I was hoping that they might be able to sell me just an
optical module to do points replacement and feed this box directly,
since I would no longer need all the electronics that are trying to
charge the coil and manage dwell, but after talking with someone at the
tech line, he said that wasn't the case. I'd be happy to find out that
I'm wrong (JGD?) and can cobble up something simple; it seems stupid to
spend another $90 or so for a box that just eliminates the points if I
can do it more cheaply. I *could* live on with points, but I'd really
rather be rid of them. (No, I'm not interested in swapping
distributors, because I want to retain my mechanical tach drive.)

Name:        Crane Cams
Address:     530 Fentress Boulevard
             Daytona Beach, FL 32114
Phone:       (904) 252-1151
             (904) 258-6174 x2020 HI-6 contact line
             (904) 258-9055 electronic tech
             (904) 258-6167 fax

P.S. That cap spec below has got to be millifarad, right?

[That's microfarad.  That would make the unit about equivalent to the 
MSD-7A in terms of spark energy.  Looks like a competent unit which
should give MSD a run for the money if it is reliable.  I'm not sure
what kind of interface you're asking about.  Perhaps a few more
specifics?  JGD]

---[transcribed by cak 1/5/94, any typos are in the original]

12-21-93

CRANE HI-6 CAPACITIVE DISCHARGE IGNITION - PART #6000-6420
PRODUCT DESCRIPTION AND FUNCTIONAL SPECIFICATIONS

CONFIGURATION

	The HI-6 is a high performance capacitive discharge ignition system
for both street and racing vehicles with moderate to high compression
ratio, operating through 10,000 ERPM (V8). It can be used with 4, 6, and 8
cyl applications. The HI-6 utilizes a microcontroller to control all
functions including an automatic sequence rev limiter. Physical
configurations, electrical interface, and output characteristics are
explained in later paragraphs. Improvements are made in reliability and
performance wherever possible by applying the latest state-of-the-art
technology.

	The HI-6 housing is an aluminum extrusion, 8 inches long, 4.5
inches wide and 2 inches high. The total weight with harness is
approximately 2 lbs 8 ozs. The wire harness exits from one end cap. Rev
limiter switches and a status LED are located on the other end cap. Finish
is gold anodize with bright dip. Label appears on the top slant surface.
All components are mounted onto a single PCB that slides into the unit. The
power devises are mounted on an aluminum heat sink bar.

TRIGGER INPUTS

Magnetic
	A magnetic trigger input is provided for triggering from magnetic
pickups and crank triggers. HI-6 magnetic trigger connections are made with
shielded cable. This offers improved noise immunity. Minimum trigger
voltage is +/- .3 volts. This is adequate for low output magnetic pickups
and slow cranking speeds.
	Firmware within the HI-6 compensates for the intrinsic delay of the
magnetic pickup circuit. Timing is constant within +/- .5 degrees through
8000 ERPM.

Points/Module trigger input
	A points trigger input is provided for triggering from conventional
breaker points and the output of most O.E. electronic ignition modules. The
trigger threshold is approximately 3.5V with 1V hysteresis; this gives good
noise immunity. As with the magnetic trigger input, firmware within the
HI-6 compensates for intrinsic delays.

MICROCONTROLLER

	An advanced RISC (Reduced Instruction Set Computer) technology
microcontroller is used to control all functions of the HI-6.

REV LIMITER

	The rev limiter uses an automatic sequence selection algorithm that
selects the best firing sequence based on engine response. The use of a
sequence type rev limiting principle gives very smooth rev limiting and
reduces engine and drivetrain stress. Adjustment range is 600 to 9,9000 RPM
in 100 RPM increments. Accuracy is +/- 50 RPM.

	Two rotary switches set the rev limit. These are screwdriver
adjustable and environmentally sealed for reliable operation.
	The HI-6 firmware reads the rev limit setting when the ignition is
first turned on. If the switch setting is changed, power must be turned off
and then on again for the new setting to become effective. This is done for
maximum immunity against noise and the effect of mechanical vibration on
switch contacts.
	The maximum RPM limit switches are also used for special and
diagnostic modes. Setting 00 through 05 are reserved for this purpose.
		Mode 00	Disables the rev limiter and allows operation above
			9,900 RPM. The unit continues to operate in the
			multi-spark mode at low RPM.
		Mode 01	Disables the multi-spark mode and rev limiter.
			Provides compatibility with external rev limiters.
		Modes 02-05	Reserved for future diagnostic modes.

	Cylinder select wire. A short blue wire is used to select the
number of cylinders for rev limiting purpose. Cylinder selection is made as
follows: 
		8 cylinders	wire left unconnected
		6 cylinders	wire grounded
		4 cylinders	wire connected to switched +12 volts

STATUS LED

	A status LED is provided as a diagnostic aid. During normal
operation, the LED will light when the HI-6 is first powered up. This
indicates completion of a self-test. The LED will blink whenever trigger
pulses are received during cranking. This allows quick diagnosis of faulty
power connections, missing trigger signals, and major circuit failure.

TACH OUTPUT
	
	A tach output is provided for 12V ground sensing tachometers. The
duty cycle of the tach pulse is approximately 25-30% at low RPM with a
minimum pulse width of 750 microseconds at high RPM.

COIL OUTPUT

	A capacitive discharge output stage drives the ignition coil.
Multiple sparks are fired below 3000 RPM. The spark interval between
multiple sparks is a function of battery voltage to insure that the power
supply always fully charges the capacitor prior to spark firing.

Summary of HI-6 output characteristics:

	Capacitor size			1.0 MFD 
	Coil primary discharge voltage	460V
	Constant output to		10,000 RPM

HI-6 output characteristics with Crane PS-91 E core coil above 3000 RPM
(single spark)

	Secondary voltage		35KV into 50pf load
	Secondary current		.35 amps peak
	Spark duration			210 microseconds

HI-6 output characteristics with Crane PS-92 E core coil above 3000 RPM
(single spark)

	Secondary voltage		35KV into 50pf load
	Secondary current		.485 amps peak
	Spark duration			190 microseconds

HI-6 multiple spark operation characteristics:
	RPM for transition to single spark	3000 RPM
	Multiple spark duration at low RPM	25% duty cycle
	Maximum number of sparks		12
	Effective spark duration at idle	5-6 msec at 600 RPM (V-8)
	Spark interval				1.2-5 msec depending on
						battery voltage

	Note: each spark in a multiple spark sequence has approximately the
	same coil output characteristics as the single spark output above 3,000
	RPM.

Note: Output characteristics measured at 13.5V battery voltage, with 3ft
spiral core cable into non resistor plug with .045" gap in pressure
chanber. Pressure adjusted to give 12KV firing voltage (about 40-45 PSI
nitrogen gas). Current measured across 10 ohm sampling resistor. This gives
results equivalent to SAE J973A, except more repeatable due to elimination
of atmospheric variables such as humidity.

COIL COMPATIBILITY

	The HI-6 is intended to be compatible with most O.E. electronic and
aftermarket coils, including the Crane PS-91 and PS-92. Low primary and
secondary resistance coils are recommended for maximum endurance at high
RPM.

ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
	
	Except for the magnetic pickup harness, all other harness wires are
unterminated. Assorted loose terminals and mounting hardware are included
in a separate parts bag.

	Battery+	12 AWG red wire, 6 foot long
	Battery-	12 AWG black wire, 6 foot long
	Ignition+	18 AWG wire, 4 foot long
	Points		18 AWG white wire, 4 foot long
	Tach		18 AWG green wire, 4 foot long
	Cylinder Select	18 AWG blue wire, 12 inches long
	Coil+ 		18 AWG orange wire, 4 foot long
	Coil-		18 AWG black wire, 4 foot long
			joing with coil+ wire in protective sleeve
	Mag Trigger	20 AWG shielded cable
	Harness

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan  7 17:45:14 1994
Subject: Old British Cars
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7324
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Weren't a lot of the old British cars positive ground?

The piece of junk '64 MG Midget I used to have had the Positive ground Lucas
electronics.  I'm convinced that that's why the old English cars rusted like
crazy.  You know how the positive terminal on your battery corrodes much
faster than the negative -- well on those old British cars, the WHOLE CAR is
a POSITIVE TERMINAL, and the whole car corrodes like crazy.  I always had
flaky electrical problems -- I wonder if the positive ground was what gave
Lucas electronic systems such a bad name.

In defense of MGs though, that car was a blast to drive -- especially on
twisty mountain roads!  The dinky 1098cc engine sounded pretty neat with
headers and a tiny little glasspack muffler.  Nice big clouds of blue smoke
too!  

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan  7 17:56:05 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-1*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7325
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special 
thanks also to Steve Seely for providing the info. on Winston Cup 
coverage.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings before 
setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

1993 NASCAR Year In Review            01/07    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/07    3:00-4:55PM      HBO
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/07    4:30-5:30PM      ESPN2
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/08    4:30-6:30AM      ENC
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/08    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic                    01/08    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
MotorWeek                             01/08   11:30AM-12:00PM   WGN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/08    12:30-2:30PM     ENC
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/08    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/08    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/08    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINSTON INVITATIONAL (T)        01/08    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
Classic Cars                          01/08    4:00-5:00PM      DSC
MotorWeek                             01/08    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
Thrills and Spills                    01/09    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/09    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
MotorWeek                             01/09    2:30-3:00AM      WGN
IHBA DRAG BOATS, BAKERSFIELD (T)      01/09    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
1993 IndyCar Year In Review           01/09    6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
1993 IMSA Year In Review              01/09    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/09    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/09    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners                               01/09    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/09    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/09    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/09   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
NHRA, SOUTHERN NATIONALS, ATLANTA (T) 01/09    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners                               01/09    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
IHRA RACING (T)                       01/09    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN2
Shadetree Mechanic                    01/09    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/09    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
1993 IROC Year In Review              01/09    6:00-7:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/09    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/09    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/09    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/09    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/09   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/09   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/10    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               01/10    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
Motoworld                             01/10    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN2
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, BAY CITY (T)   01/10    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/10    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 01/10    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/11    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
IHBA DRAG BOATS, BAKERSFIELD (T)      01/11    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/11    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/11    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/12    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             01/12    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/12    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/12    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/13    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/13    3:00-5:00AM      ENC
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/13   11:00AM-1:00PM    ENC
Monster Trucks                        01/13    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, SASKATOON (T)  01/13    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/13    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Jetta III, Alfa 164LS)     01/13    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/14    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, PITTSBURG (T)  01/14    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/14    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/16    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/23    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:15PM          CBS
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:30PM          TNN
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan  7 18:39:33 1994
Subject: Pontiac woes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7326
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 My friend Doug bought what he thought was a 455 Pontiac engine to put
in his '65 Le Mans.  Unfortunately, he found out he'd been taken when he
opened it up and found it was 4.120x3.75 - a 400.

 The bad part is not so much being taken, as it was that it took him
eight months to find a 455 core in the first place, and in the six
months since he found it, he still hasn't seen another.  Well, a real
one, anyway.  He's severely bummed.

 I haven't seen any 455s around here either, but PAW has 455 cranks for
$200.  Unfortunately, the 421/428/455 has 3.25 mains, the 326-400 has
3.0 mains.

 I just got off the phone with Jim Butler, who High Performance Pontiac
Magazine's tech column.  Jim says you can cut the 455 crank down and
drop it in, and everything clears, but the thrust main on the 455 is
wider than the 400, so the crank has about an eighth of an inch of
thrust slop.  He uses spacers and Olds bearings to make it all work, but
it sounds like more than I can talk Doug through over the phone.  It's
his first engine job, after all.  I guess I'll have him bring the
Pontiac along to Wichita when he brings my Olds motor.
                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan  7 19:46:39 1994
Subject: Re: Pontiac woes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7327
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-------
Dave,

I know a guy that has a 1970 Pontiac Bonneville with a 455 sitting in his
yard...  He might be willing to sell... (I really don't know).  Contact me
direct for his email-address...

Walt K.
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!halibut.nosc.mil!koziarz (Walter A. Koziarz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan  9 03:07:17 1994
Subject: bolt sizes on 1969 Camaro
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7328
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

     Hello to everyone.  I'm restoring a 1969 Camaro.  At this point
     in time, I am reassembling the front suspension and subframe.
     Unfortunately, I forgot where I put some of the bolts when I
     disassembled the car a year ago.  If anyone could give me
     some info on the following sizes, it would be much appreciated.
     (dia. and length)
     Crossmember -under tranny, upper control arms -where shims are,
     lower control arms -to subframe.
     Is it possible that someone knows of a list that translates
     GM parts numbers to sizes.  I have the assembly manual, but
     it just gives pn's.  Also, where are the best body mounts to
     be found?? Thanks in advance for any info you can give.
                                
                                      Paul Grant
                                      mvkrg@mvubr.att.com

----------
Posted by: emory!mvubr.att.com!mvkrg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 10 14:47:31 1994
Subject: Big Ford Engine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7329
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

My '79 F-700 three-ton has a 370 (ugh) in it.  The power is really
lousy.  I will be replacing it with a 460 as soon as finances permit.

I was in Western Auto a few days ago getting plugs, cap, rotor, etc.
for it, and noticed in one of the books a bunch of Ford truck engine
sizes for which you could get plugs, cap, rotor, so I know they were
gasoline engines.  The engines were listed by cubic inch size, and the
largest engine was a 534!

Does anybody know about this monster?

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 10 15:00:33 1994
Subject: Dick Jones Racing Cams
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7330
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In the March 90 issue of HotRod there was an article about
R&D work being performed by Dick Jones Racing Cams. The address
listed is no longer correct. Does anyone know the current address and
phone number.
 
Also, the article indicated there would be a followup with some of
the results from the R&D work. Does anyone know the issue the followup
article appeared in?
thanks
 
 
 
 

----------
Posted by: emory!tamvm1.tamu.edu!X128CB (Chuck Braden)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 10 16:40:17 1994
Subject: Misc small chevy perf parts for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7331
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	Note some new stuff has been added since last posting.
	===================
	Miscellaneous mostly USED Hi-Po parts - small chevy stuff unless
	stated otherwise
	USED  good condition unless stated otherwise

	Moroso 8 qt straight sump pan and pump with pickup
	Manley 3/8 .100 oversize hardened pushrods 
	NASCAR 5/16 .100 oversize hardened pushrods
	Fuel Pump regulator Mallory #4207 $50 NEW
	ATI SFI approved Flex plate shield powerglide $50 NEW
	600 holley double pump with moroso reuseable gaskets 
	Steel 7 degree 1.437 inch small chevy valve retainers
	Fram HPG-1 canister type Fuel Filter 
	Cam Dynamics Vacum reserve reservoir
	Stock 400 chev used rods - pistons on still but are junk
	400 chev balancer stock needs seal saver
	2 - 350 8 inch balancers stock
	4 stock 350 rods. balance pads heavily ground down
	K&N Substack
	Comp Cams magnum roller tip rockers 3/8 stud 1.52 ratio
	1 set poly locks 3/8 stud not for use on stud girdle
	1 inch 4 hole metal carb spacer - sq flange
	1 inch open plenum composite carb spacer sq flange
	1 inch moroso 4 hole bakelite carb spacer
	Moroso Air pan kit for single 4 bbl - new
	Engine oil cooler kit - universal style - new
	Edelbrock Street tunnel ram - almost new!
	10" 3600 stall convertor for TH350/400 2 seasons old
	8" 5000 stall GER convertor for TH350/400 1/2 season old
	Hurst Comp Plus shifter - body only - new
	BlackJack headers: See a catalog for details on these. all new
		#3016 65-70 impala small block
		#3701 CJ Jeep w/amc v8, under chassis
	Set TRW L3004F030 cast pistons for 351W 73-76 Ford new see cat. for detail.

Misc crud:
	Patch Panels:	New
		78-89 Suburban/Blazer/Truck Rear corner L & R
		76-89 Chevy Van - Sliding door lower edge
		AM-FM Mono radio out of 78 chevy van
		Tow receiver class 3 for 76-94 chevy van - used
		Thule #307 roof rack with locks NO OTHER acessories - new
			(48 inch rack with clamps for cars with gutters)

	All this stuff can go UPS. The patch panels and headers
	may provide me some packaging problems (if I have boxes for 
	those things they are really beat up.
	If you're interested in any of it, send offers or ask prices.
---

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 10 16:46:37 1994
Subject: Bolts for '69
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7332
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If you're not sure about the thread sizes, you can look in the back of the
factory service manual under the torque charts.  They list them by bolt size: 
3/8 - 16  blah blah part to blah blah,  45 foot lbs./inch

There's either coarse threads or fine threads:  NC or NF
The most common sizes are  1/4-20     (1/4" coarse threads with a 7/16" hex
head)
 
5/16" - 18 (coarse with a 1/2" hex head), 5/16" - 24 (fine), 3/8" - 16 (coarse
with a 9/16" hex head), 3/8" - 24 (fine), 7/16" - 14 (coarse with a 5/8" hex
head), 7/16" - 20 (fine).

If you're really unfamiliar with the bolt sizes, you could get one each of the
above in some cheapo grade bolt, try them out until you know what you need,
then go and get grade-8 bolts for the real thing (sometimes grade 5 is okay).

Most of the washers and lockwashers on cars are SAE grade.  SAE grade washers
are a little smaller in diameter than the typical hardware store variety. 
Make sure you figure in the thickness of the washers and/or lockwashers when
you decide what length bolts to get.

Sorry if you already knew all this, -- just trying to help out a fellow '69
Camaro owner.  I've had all those bolts out myself, but I can't remember off
hand exactly what they were.  

I have the '69 factory service manual at home if you have any specific
questions.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 10 16:52:02 1994
Subject: 351W cast pistons forsale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7333
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	Set TRW L3004 F 030 cast pistons for 351W 73-76 Ford - new - 
	See catalog for detail

	It can go UPS. 
	Ask $80 + shipping OBO
	If you're interested in it, send offer.

---

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 11 19:52:09 1994
Subject: Re: Dick Jones Racing Cams
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7334
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: In the March 90 issue of HotRod there was an article about
: R&D work being performed by Dick Jones Racing Cams. The address
: listed is no longer correct. Does anyone know the current address and
: phone number.
:  
: Also, the article indicated there would be a followup with some of
: the results from the R&D work. Does anyone know the issue the followup
: article appeared in?
: thanks
:  
is Dick Jones the same as R.H.Jones???

If so, 70 Cristich , Campbell, CA

:  
:  
:  

: ----------
: Posted by: emory!tamvm1.tamu.edu!X128CB (Chuck Braden)

--
____________    __      ____________  "They that can give up essential
\_____     /   /_ \     \     _____/  liberty to obtain a little
 \_____    \____/  \____/    _____/  temporary safety deserve
  \_____                    _____/  neither liberty nor safety."
     \___________  ___________/          --Benjamin Franklin
               /    \           ALL disclaimers apply ....
               ~~~~~~

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 11 20:04:46 1994
Subject: On the subject of bolts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7335
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On the subject of bolts, what the grades above grade-8 bolts.  I'm not even
sure if they go by numbers once above 8.  I thought I saw a 9 or 10 listed once
though.  Anyone know where they can be purchased or milled?

Tx,
SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 11 20:14:09 1994
Subject: More automatic tranny trouble
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7336
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Looking for help with a 1983 S15 Jimmy.  Works great in low gear. When 
shifting into second its like the thing jumps into neutural. Fluid is clean. 
No burnt smells. No leaks.   **** Cold as hell here lately, -20C. ****

Bob Hale,  Just by chance you read this, your information on the T350/T400 
was of great intrest.  Any of that information for these little guys.

My "son with no money" thanks you.

Greg.

----------
Posted by: emory!jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca!kinnong (Greg MacKinnon)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 11 20:22:59 1994
Subject: Forwarded: Big Ford Engine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7337
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-------
Forwarded mail follows:

[ Bob Wise sez: ]

My '79 F-700 three-ton has a 370 (ugh) in it.  The power is really
lousy.  I will be replacing it with a 460 as soon as finances permit.

I was in Western Auto a few days ago getting plugs, cap, rotor, etc.
for it, and noticed in one of the books a bunch of Ford truck engine
sizes for which you could get plugs, cap, rotor, so I know they were
gasoline engines.  The engines were listed by cubic inch size, and the
largest engine was a 534!

Does anybody know about this monster?

-Bob


----------
Posted by: emory!halibut.nosc.mil!koziarz (Walter A. Koziarz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 04:49:26 1994
Subject: Re: bolt sizes on 1969 Camaro
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7338
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have a 68 Firebird but Camaros share the same subframe.  The best bet
fot the control arm rebuild is to order an entire kit which comes with
bolts, bushings, etc.  If you want the car to handle, spring the extra
bucks for urethane bushings.  The urethane bushings work really well on
when replacing the rear leaf spring bushings, the sway bar bushings, and
the cross link bushings.  Some kits have solid bushings, but stay away
since they provide brutal handling but sorry ride quality.  The body
mount's arent cheap either.  They can also be purchased in rubber,
solid, or urethane.  Urethane provides the best handling and less
squeaking.  Real improvement can be had at this time by either
fabricating or purchasing a set of subframe connectors to connect the
front and rear of the car.

Year One (Atlanta) is probably your best bet to get this stuff, as well
as the bolts you need.  They also have spec.  manuals which can tell you
exactly which bolts go where, size, and grade.

If you haven't shopped with these guys yet give them a try.  I've seen
alot of restoration parts come and go.  These guys consistently have
good stuff.  You didn't say if the trans.  was a stick or an automatic.
The crossmembers are different.  Both do share 5/16-20 bolts where the
crossmember bolts to the subframe, and are grade 5.  The center mount
for an auto.  turbo 400 uses 1/2-18 but take your trans.  mount with you
to the store to be sure.  Happy handling!

----------
Posted by: John A Butler 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 05:01:03 1994
Subject: Air flow sensor calibration
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7339
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I am helping a friend fix the Bosch fuel injection on his 82 Jaguar. 
Before I started helping him someone got in there and changed the 
calibration on the air flow sensor. Its running pretty well now but i 
would like to recalibrate the AF sensor if possible. Does anyone out 
there have any technical information on these things? There is nothing 
in the manual; it refers to it as a sealed unit that must be replaced 
if not working ($1000). Its a L-Jetronic system; the Air Flow sensor is 
a spring loaded flap with a sweeper on top of the flap pivot that runs 
across a series of resistors.

Thanks in advance.              Wes Evernden

waevernd@system3.lcs.gov.bc.ca

----------
Posted by: emory!system3.lcs.gov.bc.ca!Evernden_Wes_A/lcs_system3
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 05:10:46 1994
Subject: Re: Pontiac woes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7340
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If you still haven't found a 455 block by the second weekend in April,
try the swap meet at the Charlotte Motor Speedway.  Cheap Pontiac parts
are always plentiful since not many people play with them around here.
Would the stroke of the large crank put the piston right out the top of
the cylinder?  I think if you compare you'll find that your deck height
is far exceeded if your using 400 pistons, since all pontiac rods
interchange, and the piston pin heights are different.  Also, lots of
455 blocks are also already tapped for four bolt main caps.  A good line
boring job and some plentiful 428 4 bolt caps are all you need to have 4
bolt 455 block.  If only somebody made good cheap rods.  Since all post
1966 heads will bolt onto a 455 block, you also need to worry about
final compression ratio, and fitting a good set of hardened valve seats
for todays sorry gas.

----------
Posted by: John A Butler 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 05:19:56 1994
Subject: Re: Big Ford Engine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7341
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yeah. It's called the Eddie Hill Edition. It's like an Eddie Bauer edition, 
with a lot more guts.

----------
Posted by: John A Butler 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 05:29:24 1994
Subject: Chevy frame question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7342
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

A friend is restoring a 72 Caprice 454 conv. The frame is BAD. He is trying
to find one. Question is, Is the conv. frame boxed like an El Camino?
If so, would a 4 door or coupe frame work? Would the B/O/P frame
also be the same too?

Thanks,  Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 05:37:50 1994
Subject: Re: More automatic tranny trouble
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7343
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Greg MacKinnon writes about an S15 tranny problem:
>Works great in low gear. When 
>shifting into second its like the thing jumps into neutural.

I don't have intimate knowledge of the little critters but
this sounds suspiciously like a one-way clutch that is either
broken or has the sprags flipped over.

The T400 transmission designs use two clutches to engage
second gear: a multiple plate disk clutch which is applied
by hydraulic pressure and which grounds one portion of the
planetary gear set, and a one-way clutch (either sprag or
roller) which grounds another portion of the planetary gear
set but only when it tries to run the opposite direction
from the clutch's freewheeling direction.  If the roller
clutch breaks or if the sprag clutch has its sprags flip over
then it can't hold the reaction torque and the transmission
might as well be in neutral when it tries to be in 2nd.

A broken roller clutch usually rattles and makes bad noises
while the car is moving because all kinds of little bits
and pieces are moving around inside the tranny.  These bits
and pieces do a lot of damage, but it is possible to repair
a trans which has had this failure.  It's not a cheap repair
because you need a replacement direct clutch drum, a new
sleeve for the center support, a new plastic spacer band,
probably all new friction plates, and perhaps new seals.
All this assumes that major parts such as the gears didn't
suffer any damage from broken bits.

A sprag clutch which has flipped over is not a big deal.
You can make this right by taking the tranny apart and
flipping the sprags back over to where they should be.
However, if it flipped once it may do it again and many
people replace the sprag clutch with one which has a lot
more sprags (34 versus 16).  The 16 sprag clutch is actually
a reduced cost version made especially for GM.  The 34 tooth
sprag is an industry standard part.

The T350 and other smaller 3 speed transmissions used very similar
design thinking and consequently they usually are susceptible to
the same failure modes.  I suspect that the '83 trans in the S15
is a derivative of this same basic design.  I would suspect flipped
sprags based on the brief problem description.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 05:47:28 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-2*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7344
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special 
thanks also to Steve Seely for providing the info. on Winston Cup 
coverage.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings before 
setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Monster Trucks                        01/13    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, SASKATOON (T)  01/13    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/13    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Jetta III, Alfa 164LS)     01/13    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/14    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, PITTSBURG (T)  01/14    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
AMA SUPERCROSS (T)                    01/14    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/15    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (body accessories) 01/15    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/15    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/15    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/15    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Swamp Buggy Challenge                 01/15    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             01/15    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
Detroit International Auto Show (T)   01/15    6:00-7:00PM      ESPN
MotorWeek                             01/16    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
Motoworld                             01/16    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed (Bimmers)            01/16    4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/16    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/16    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Dave Schultz)                01/16    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/16    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/16    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/16   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
NHRA, MID-SOUTH NATIONALS, MEMPHIS (T)01/16    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Dave Schultz)                01/16    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (body accessories) 01/16    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/16    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/16    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/16    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/16    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/16    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/16   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/16   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Movie: The Road Warrior               01/16   11:45PM-1:20AM    HBO
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/17    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Bob Nordskog)01/17    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
1993 Off-Road Racing Highlights       01/17    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, W. PALM BEACH(T01/17    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
Best of AMA Supercross                01/17    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 01/17    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/18    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
BUD PRO STOCK CHALLENGE, ENGLISHTOWN(T01/18    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
THE BAJA 1000, MEXICO (T)             01/18    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, ST. LOUIS (T)  01/18    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/18    6:00-7:55PM      HBO
AMA SUPERCROSS                        01/18    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/19    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             01/19    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/19    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
Movie: The Road Warrior               01/19    9:00-11:00PM     ENC
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/20    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
AMA SUPERCROSS                        01/20    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
MotorWeek (Detroit Auto Show)         01/20    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/21    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             01/21    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/21    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS                        01/21    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/23    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
DAYTONA 24 HOURS, START (?)           02/05    TBA              TBA
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/06    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/06    7:30-8:30PM      TNN
DAYTONA 24 HOURS, FINISH (?)          02/06    TBA              TBA
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/07    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     02/07    1:00-2:00AM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA TWIN 125'S (?)   02/17    TBA              TBA
BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (?)                 02/19    TBA              TBA
IROC #1, DAYTONA (?)                  02/28 (live coverage unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:15PM          CBS
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00PM           TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:30PM          TNN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                03/05    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    TBA              TBA
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS (?)            03/19    TBA              TBA
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    TBA              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (?)            03/20    TBA              TBA
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (?) 03/20    TBA              TBA

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 06:51:28 1994
Subject: Monster Engine for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7345
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've got a 1970 Buick Centurion (one of the largest cars I've ever seen)

In it sits a 1970 455 4 barrel/TH400 that runs like a dream.

In 1970, the 455 Compression ration was (I believe), 11:1 (=massive
potential)

This motor put out well over 300Hp/300torque on the showroom floor.

The car drives well and the motor is just sitting/waiting to be rebuilt and
dropped in an early Cutlass or whatever strikes your fancy (Jeep C-J
crossed my mind...Whaaoo! Power to Weight Ratio from Hell!!)

I'll sell the car as is for $400.00 o.b.o    .............

OR... I'll rebuild the monster per your specs (I've done this before, I'm a
mechanical engineer w/ references) and ship it to you complete after
contract.

Were talkin' anywhere from 400-600Hp depending on your wallet.

Send interest via E-mail to:		Jim Springer,    springer@bucknell.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!bucknell.edu!springer (JIM SPRINGER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 07:00:49 1994
Subject: Re: Peaks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7346
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: I just finished looking over an article of the new Bugatti (sp?).  It seems
: to be a sweet car.  The engine is a 3.5 liter V-12 with 4 turbos.  Anyways
: I'll get to my question:

:  The peak horsepower is a 8000 RPM (552 I believe), but the peak torque is
: at 3800 or so (480ish).  Most everything I've every seen has the peaks rather
: close to each other in the RPM range.  Is haveing such a difference a useful
: thing?  How is it accomplished?  Thanks.

: Tom McClendon
: gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

Torque and horsepower are always equal at 5250 RPM because of the
mathematics to figure them both out.  If the cam is used for drag
racing, it is usually designed to put out a high horsepower at a
high RPM and is designed to concentrate on this.  If the cam is
used in everyday driving, the torque value is concentrated on and
the torque curve is much broader for a better overall running 
engine.  If I'm wrong, I hope someone says so, but the 5250 
number is just how the two numbers are figured out mathematically.
:wq


: ----------
: Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!maz (Mark A Zimmerman)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 07:10:52 1994
Subject: Re: Big Ford Engine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7347
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: My '79 F-700 three-ton has a 370 (ugh) in it.  The power is really
: lousy.  I will be replacing it with a 460 as soon as finances permit.

: I was in Western Auto a few days ago getting plugs, cap, rotor, etc.
: for it, and noticed in one of the books a bunch of Ford truck engine
: sizes for which you could get plugs, cap, rotor, so I know they were
: gasoline engines.  The engines were listed by cubic inch size, and the
: largest engine was a 534!

: Does anybody know about this monster?

: -Bob

  I've heard of it.  Never have seen one though.  It's in big trucks 
only.  I think there were a 370, a 477 and a 534.  I can't tell you
what it changes/exchanges with.  The town where I live has one in a
firetruck and they're always the first to a fire.  I would say, that
if you want information on it, go down to your local Ford dealer who
sells large trucks and ask for some information.  Maybe the local
library might have some, too.  

Good luck! 

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!maz (Mark A Zimmerman)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 14:47:00 1994
Subject: Re:  Chevy frame question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7348
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 GM convertibles boxed the frame from arch to arch. Non-convertible 
frames were not boxed (at least on the A-bodies I've been under, and
older big cars). I don't think a frame swap is any better an idea
that repairing and reinforcing the existing one, unless we're talking
extensive rust-through. You might find a clean convertible frame,
but it's going to be rare (especially in salt country) and expensive
(especially if you have to ship it from somewhere there isn't salt).

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 14:56:32 1994
Subject: RE: PONTIAC WOES
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7349
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

To John Butler,
The original post was from David Williams and the motor was for a friend
of his in CO. We are talking about putting a 455 crank in a 400 block
and doing a .030 overbore and using 455 pistons not the 400 pistons. If
I was not on my way out of the states I would attend charlotte for the
cheap Poncho stuff, but I'm already gettin rid of the stuff I got.
:
John  DoD #1135
                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!john.tollison (John Tollison)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 15:06:48 1994
Subject: Schedule Change
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7350
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello all,

It figures. The one week I manage to get the listing out early, I get
a last minute change :-(

Sorry about that. - Bill

------------------------------------------------

POSTED WITH PERMISSION OF THE NASHVILLE NETWORK:

1993 NASCAR BUSCH SERIES AWARDS BANQUET TO TELECAST ON TNN

       Nashville, Tenn. -- January 10, 1994-- TNN: The 
Nashville Network honors the 1993 Busch Series with a one-
hour special highlighting the annual awards  banquet held 
earlier this year in Charlotte, N.C. Titled The Busch Series 
Awards, the  special telecasts Saturday, January 15, at 4:00 
PM (Eastern time).
       Hosted by Randy Pemberton and Bill Weber of TNN's 
"Inside Winston Cup Racing" the special focuses on the 1993 
NASCAR Busch season and champion Steve Grissom, who was 
awarded the prestigious championship trophy and over $100,000 
from  NASCAR. The most successful season to date in NASCAR 
Busch racing, the series was  attended by over 1.3 million 
fans and was televised live on national television.
       In addition to honoring Grissom, the special 
highlights the drivers who also  finished in the Top Ten: 
Ricky Craven, David Green, Chuck Bown, Joe Nemechek,  Ward 
Burton, Bobby Dotter, Robert Pressley, Todd Bodine, and 
Hermie Sadler, who  was also honored as the 1993 RRookie of 
the Year.S
       Steve Grissom won the 1993 championship by placing 253 
points ahead of second place finisher Ricky Craven. Grissom 
won two races during the season in Hickory, N.C.,  and 
Milwaukee, Wis. He had 11 Top Five finishes and 18 Top Ten 
finishes.
       Grissom?'s career on the NASCAR Busch Series began in 
1988, and next year the  30-year-old will move up to the 
Winston Cup series as driver for Diamond Ridge Racing.  Prior 
to running NASCAR, he drove on the All Pro Series for seven 
years and was series  champion in 1985.
       A native of Gadsden, Ala, Grissom began racing at age 
15, and in high school was  also an Rall-conferenceS 
offensive lineman and linebacker. He was recruited by over 14  
colleges to play football, but chose to follow his dream 
instead -- to win the NASCAR  Winston Cup championship.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 15:17:01 1994
Subject: Re: Monster Engine for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7351
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>I've got a 1970 Buick Centurion (one of the largest cars I've ever seen)

>In it sits a 1970 455 4 barrel/TH400 that runs like a dream.

>In 1970, the 455 Compression ration was (I believe), 11:1 (=massive
>potential)

>This motor put out well over 300Hp/300torque on the showroom floor.

>The car drives well and the motor is just sitting/waiting to be rebuilt and
>dropped in an early Cutlass or whatever strikes your fancy (Jeep C-J
>crossed my mind...Whaaoo! Power to Weight Ratio from Hell!!)

>I'll sell the car as is for $400.00 o.b.o    .............

I'm interested. I've just dropped a SB into a CJ5, it would be fun to
put that into a longer wheelbase CJ if I can find one. Where are
you located?


----------
Posted by: emory!geta.life.uiuc.edu!mrmike (Mike McCaughey)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 18:45:14 1994
Subject: Re: Big Ford Engine
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7352
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

: The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: : My '79 F-700 three-ton has a 370 (ugh) in it.  The power is really
: : lousy.  I will be replacing it with a 460 as soon as finances permit.
: 
: : I was in Western Auto a few days ago getting plugs, cap, rotor, etc.
: : for it, and noticed in one of the books a bunch of Ford truck engine
: : sizes for which you could get plugs, cap, rotor, so I know they were
: : gasoline engines.  The engines were listed by cubic inch size, and the
: : largest engine was a 534!
: 
: : Does anybody know about this monster?
: 
: : -Bob
:

There are chilton books available with this motor in it.
I believe it is the 71-79 Truck/Van service man.

Mark
 

----------
Posted by: Mark Shirley 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 18:56:52 1994
Subject: Re: Peaks 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7353
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

--------

   In message  , you write:
 
| Torque and horsepower are always equal at 5250 RPM because of the
| mathematics to figure them both out.  If the cam is used for drag
| racing, it is usually designed to put out a high horsepower at a
| high RPM and is designed to concentrate on this.  If the cam is
| used in everyday driving, the torque value is concentrated on and
| the torque curve is much broader for a better overall running 
| engine.  If I'm wrong, I hope someone says so, but the 5250 
| number is just how the two numbers are figured out mathematically.

| ----------
| Posted by: emory!cray.com!maz (Mark A Zimmerman)

No.... 
	power (in Watts) = torque (in newton*meters) * w (in rad/sec)    (1)
in SI units. The conversion to English units are as follows:
	3.281 ft = 1 m
	0.2248 lbf = 1 n
	745.7 W = 1 hp
	2*pi/60 rpm = 1 rad/sec
Substituting these into (1) gives us
        power = (1/3.281)(1/.2248)(2*pi/60)(1/745.7) * 
	        torque (in foot*lbf) * rpm (in rev/min)
or
	power = (1/5252) * torque (in foot*lbf) * rpm (in rev/min).

The 5252 factor is correct, but its just a constant of proportionality, when
working in English units, between power and the product torque*rpm.

                                       John S Gwynne
                                          Gwynne.1@osu.edu
_______________________________________________________________________________
               T h e   O h i o - S t a t e   U n i v e r s i t y
    ElectroScience Laboratory, 1320 Kinnear Road, Columbus, Ohio 43212, USA
                Telephone: (614) 292-7981 * Fax: (614) 292-7292
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: John S Gwynne 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 19:08:22 1994
Subject: Re: Air flow sensor calibration
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7354
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



> Before I started helping him someone got in there and changed the 
> calibration on the air flow sensor. Its running pretty well now but i 
> would like to recalibrate the AF sensor if possible. Does anyone out 
> there have any technical information on these things? There is nothing 
> in the manual; it refers to it as a sealed unit that must be replaced 
> if not working ($1000). Its a L-Jetronic system; the Air Flow sensor is 
> a spring loaded flap with a sweeper on top of the flap pivot that runs 
> across a series of resistors.

Wes ..

This gets tricky, and expensive IMHO .. but since you asked ;)

On one side of the L-Jet AFM there is a plastic cover that can be removed

Inside you'll see the end of the flap shaft running a complex hybrid
potentiometer, you should also see a clock spring type mechanism which
has a gear shaped adjustment ring on the outside ..

There are some screws/metal thingys holding the spring/gear tension device
in place, you'll have to carefully find/loosen these and either tighten
or loosen the spring tension..

Tighter=less air signal=less fuel=leaner mixture

Loose=more air signal=more fuel=richer mixture

Now, combine this with the fact that there is a BYPASS (idle mix adjust screw)
on the body of the AFM, and you have a real fun time ahead ..

If you wish to continue, you WILL need a gas analyser (CO/HC) and a way
of reading the gas stream AHEAD of any cat/thermal reactor ..

There is usually a port that will open in the exhaust manifold somehow

Diconnect any EGO (O2) sensor, warm the thing up, and take readings at
idle and then 2000, 3000, 4000, etc rpms ..

See wether you're too rich or lean overall WITH THE IDLE MIXTURE BYPASS
SCREW at the middle of travel (half open/half closed)

If too lean overall, richen the mixture by releaving tension ...
or if too rich, tighten it up a bit ..

Now recheck everything, when it's right, tackle the idle mixture then
recheck everything again ..

round and round she goes until the mixture looks good all round, and the
idle speed/mixture is right on per spec.

Of course, before you do any of this, realize it's "tampering" probably 
illegal, I don't recommend it, and other such disclaimers :)

Also always change oil/oil filter/air filter/plugs/and check timing BEFORE
you do ANY type of EFI type work

Good luck


Jim Conforti
(87 325is / 94 325i)

---------------------------------
WORK: 1-800-288-8020 (x5471)
FAX: (801) 223-5202
INET: jec@us.dynix.com
---------------------------------


----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 14 19:18:04 1994
Subject: FWD>Returned Mail
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7355
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Mail*Link(r) SMTP               FWD>Returned Mail


Subject: Chevy V6s for sale?
To: "HotRod List" 

                          SUBJECT:  Chevy V6s for sale?
It was some time ago, but I seem to remember someone posting a note about
having some factory blueprinted Chevy V6s for sale?  I have a friend who is now
looking for a replacement for his Z24 FWD car and he might be interested.  So,
will whoever posted it, please email me with details?

Also, does anyone make a header for the FWD V6 combos?

Thanks!

-- Ken Mosher (kmosher@sterling.com)
-- Buick Grand National:  A *BOOST* of Buick Performance



----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 15 10:39:14 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy frame question 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7356
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>A friend is restoring a 72 Caprice 454 conv. The frame is BAD. He is trying
>to find one. 

    From rust or all that 454-supplied torque?  8^)
    
>If so, would a 4 door or coupe frame work? 

    The convertible frames were usually a little stronger.   I know
the body on my Cutlass has extra reinforcements, dunno about full
size.

>Would the B/O/P frame also be the same too?

    Should be.    If the frame is bad from rust, how is the body?
Once the frame is gone, the body is usually pretty bad too....

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 15 10:49:11 1994
Subject: Re: More automatic tranny trouble
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7357
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
Bob: Sorry for taken so long to get back to you,

Their is no noise what so ever,  the truck works great in low gear when it 
hits about 30 mph its, just as I said, slips into natural.  One of the 
local, get your credit card ready, transmisson shops claims their is two 
different tranny that will fit these little guys.  I am game for anything,  
we are going to drop it tommorrow.  I will take your advice on 
checking the items mentioned in your T400 article. If we have no luck, shes 
coming out.

The truck is a 4X4, and its snowing like hell here.  The son claims, by not 
getting the truck on the road, I am cutting into snowboarding time.

Thanks ever so much for the information.

Greg. 

----------
Posted by: emory!jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca!kinnong (Greg MacKinnon)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 15 11:34:43 1994
Subject: WACO - the real reason
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7358
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I was sitting here reading a Car & Driver where it talks about 
Prez Klinton's 67 Mustang (figures he's be a wimp 6 cylinder man).
While I was pondering his choice of cars, I recalled that David
Koresh had a 67 Camaro.

Then it hit me.

Waco wasn't about guns or religion or child abuse or any of the stuff
you've heard about.

It was the world's biggest Ford vs Chevy Flamefest.  A REAL flamefest.

Now you know.

John
-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC, Marietta, GA    jgd@dixie.com 
"Would you fire on US Citizens while in the process of confiscating their guns?"
    A question on a survey given to members of the U.S. counterterrorist 
    unit Navy SEAL Team Six by their commanders last September.
----------
Posted by: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 15 11:44:18 1994
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7359
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
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Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
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To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com with the 
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The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
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To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dixie.com.  Please
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
group at your site.  In order to ensure your post is properly returned
to the list, be sure to mark alt.hotrod moderated and point the mailfile
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If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
to the list.  The list membership is approaching 300 which makes things,
ummm, interesting here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  See below for the archive site.

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of bounced
messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I must 
remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a 
short time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a
day of cushion.  The volume of messages on the list is seldom less
than 10 messages a day even on the weekend so if you don't get 
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subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

ece.rutgers.edu archives the hotrod and the z-car mailing lists.  This is
available only via anonymous ftp.  Jialin Li is the contact.  
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Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
the university does not allow incoming anonymous ftp so new GIFs must
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These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I maintain a mail file server on dixie.com.  This is primarily to support
articles in my magazine, Performance Engineering (TM) but it is also
useful to hotrod list members. Software for articles and other car-related
files are available.  To get a directory, mail to 

	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

address foo@bar.com                     <<-- optional.  Where you want it sent
Index

to get a file,

send file_name

If you get empty messages in return, that means the very sorry server
software I'm now using has crashed.  Send another request.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 16 13:39:44 1994
Subject: 460 Lincoln in a Schoolbus?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7360
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Thanks for reading this.  I have a converted 72 passenger '73
Ford Bus, with Allison Automatic and Ford 391 Engine.
   The 391 is suffering from a drastic case of Noe Enough.
I have dreamed for quite some time of Cujmmins conversions, Cat 
conversions, ev en Gimmy conversions, but I know I'll never
get a round toit.
   But I do have a great-running extra 460 Lincoln in the car
stash.  I bought it for a parts car for my '75 Lingcod winter
beater.  (Keeps the salt away from the '65 Impala.)  I have
been toying with the idea of stuffing the 460 in there, but
have run into the odd nay-sayer who claims that the cooling
passages are truck size in the 391, and that the 460 is after
all only a passenger car engine, and will suffer from huge problems with 
problems with valve cooling, coolant flow, and ad anauseam.
   Also a consiederation, of course, would be boltability -
I have k no way of knowing, (except the hard way) of whether
the bellhousing situation o would be workable - might there be
an adapt4er on the back of the 391, or the front of the 'Allison,
which would make the 460 equally boltable?
   Any help would be sincerely appreciated.

----------
Posted by: emory!freenet.Victoria.BC.CA!ub757 (Pete Snidal)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 16 13:51:42 1994
Subject: Re: FWD>Returned Mail
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7361
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Try Greg or Brian at Datsun Dynamics, 703-759-4610.  They still have
them.  They were built for Firehawk racing once upon a time.  They are
hot motors.  I have driven a Beretta that had one of the motors in it.
Very nice.

-Bob

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!kraft.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 16 22:40:27 1994
Subject: 1964 Belair questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7362
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello...
I have a 1964 Chevy Belair with the I-6 (230) and Powerglide.  Can I get
Crossmembers to fit a 350 (or perhaps a 454) and a TH350-400?
By the way, I would like some info, if it can be attained...
Now, my car is in delightfully stock condition, and the tranny makes a
"popping" sound, not unlike creaking wood, when I nail the throttle off the
line in forward or reverse.  What gives?  Also, the fuel filler neck leaks gas
when I take right hand turns somewhat hard; it seems that the previous owner
attempted to drive off with a gas station's pump handle.  Will the filler neck
from a Chevy van fit in it's place?
Thanks in advance...
---
Scott Croughwell
Email: sacroughwell@vmsa.is.csupomona.edu
Phone: 976-xxxx

----------
Posted by: emory!nic.CSU.net!"sacroughwell@vmsb.is.csupomona.edu"
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 16 22:51:45 1994
Subject: Chevy 250 I-6 rebuild?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7363
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have a 78 chevy truck with a 250 6 cyl.   

I am going to have to rebuild it soon, and I have a few questions.

The 250 and the 292 both have the same bore, but different stroke.  Could I 
replace the 250 crank with one from a 292 to make mine a 292?

What I am striving for is TORQUE, so I am also looking for a cam to increase 
low end torque and improve throttle response.  Who makes cams for my plant?

As a last question, has anyone heard about a single barrel Holly Pro-jection
kit?  I saw an article a while ago, but have heard nothing since.

I can't afford a 350, so don't even suggest that.  The truck is my school truck
and may get a plow in the future, so I need the efficient 6.

Thanks for the comments.

Christopher Hinds
cdhinds@mtu.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!mtu.edu!cdhinds (CHRISTOPHER D. HINDS)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 17 14:49:31 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy 250 I-6 rebuild?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7364
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

: I have a 78 chevy truck with a 250 6 cyl.   
: 
: I am going to have to rebuild it soon, and I have a few questions.
: 
: The 250 and the 292 both have the same bore, but different stroke.  Could I 
: replace the 250 crank with one from a 292 to make mine a 292?
: 
: What I am striving for is TORQUE, so I am also looking for a cam to increase 
: low end torque and improve throttle response.  Who makes cams for my plant?
: 

Well, a fellow MTU student.  I guess that you haven't seen the tech
article on six cylinders in the library.  Its on second floor in the hot
rod compilations, around 78-80 was the year.  I can find it if you
can't.  Anyways, it has info on a 292/250 chevy in it.  For torque,
stroke that puppy .  I used the info in the library for my 300 ci ford
and with 4" stroke and a 260 Competition cams camshaft, 4bbl holley and
headers, It makes around 250-260 HP.  That will take care of your needs
i'm sure.  Call me if you need details, I am a ME with engine specialty,
so I can help if you need it.  Mark

----------
Posted by: Mark Shirley 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 17 14:58:06 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy 250 I-6 rebuild? 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7365
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I have a 78 chevy truck with a 250 6 cyl.   

>The 250 and the 292 both have the same bore, but different stroke.  Could I 
>replace the 250 crank with one from a 292 to make mine a 292?

     FYI, the 292 block is about a inch or two TALLER than the
250-series bloc, namely to accomodate the longer stroke (and possibly
longer rods?).    The 292 was a truck-only motor, due to the increased
deck height.   

     Why not just get a whole 292?   Your 78 250 probably has the
"manifold in head" head with the ultra-restrictive 1bbl carb;  the
older style regular (seperate intake/exhaust) flows better, or go all
the way and get a Clifford aluminum 4bbl intake.  8^)    Seriously, 
they're pretty damm indestructible, and somewhat plentiful.   Check
your local older junkyards.    

>What I am striving for is TORQUE, so I am also looking for a cam to increase 
>low end torque and improve throttle response.  

      292 is great for torque.    I run one in my boat (No, not a
hotrod, but...), and it's got almost as much power as some of the V8
powered stink-pots out there.   Boat weighs 4000+ lbs, and has plenty
of power to pull waterskiers.   

>Who makes cams for my plant?

      Just about everyone.    I'd probably go for something around
204/214 @ .050.   

>As a last question, has anyone heard about a single barrel Holly Pro-jection
>kit?  I saw an article a while ago, but have heard nothing since.

      No, but from what I've heard about it, and some varied
experience with them, they're not that good.    

>I can't afford a 350, so don't even suggest that. 

      Just as well.   Can't get much simpler than a I-6, and according
to Clifford, "6=8"  8^)

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 17 15:07:26 1994
Subject: Re: Pontiac woes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7366
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> If you still haven't found a 455 block by the second weekend in
-> April, try the swap meet at the Charlotte Motor Speedway.

 Thanks, but that thousand-mile drive would make a block pretty
expensive in gas and time.  


-> Would the stroke of the large crank put the piston right out the top
-> of the cylinder?  I think if you compare you'll find that your deck
-> height is far exceeded if your using 400 pistons, since all pontiac
-> rods interchange, and the piston pin heights are different.

 All Pontiacs have the same deck height, except the 301 and 265(?) nerd
motors.  Pontiac just played with the pin heights when stroking and left
the rods alone.  Since the 455 bore is .030 larger than the 400, we
could just bore the 400 .030 and put standard 455 pistons in.


-> 455 blocks are also already tapped for four bolt main caps.  A good
-> line boring job and some plentiful 428 4 bolt caps are all you need
-> to have 4 bolt 455 block.  If only somebody made good cheap rods.

 Well, yeah.  But if I had a 428 block available to strip the caps from,
I'd just use the whole block.  The 421, 428, and 455 all have the big
mains, so everything pretty well interchanges.


-> 1966 heads will bolt onto a 455 block, you also need to worry about
-> final compression ratio

 No problem with the 118cc 4x heads which came on the 400.  Besides, all
you have to do is order the pistons with the proper dome/dish
configuration for the CR you want.
            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 17 15:16:53 1994
Subject: 1964 Belair questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7367
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I have a 1964 Chevy Belair with the I-6 (230) and Powerglide.  Can I
-> get Crossmembers to fit a 350 (or perhaps a 454) and a TH350-400?

 The V8 should drop in place with just a mount change.  You'll have to
slide the trans crossmember forward or back to match the new trans -
just drill new mounting holes.  Depending on which trans you use, you
might need to change the driveshaft yoke as well, and you'll probably
have to have the driveshaft length altered.

 You'll also need a complete new exhaust system, new radiator hoses
(preferably a V8 radiator), and assorted pieces-parts.


-> attempted to drive off with a gas station's pump handle.  Will the
-> filler neck from a Chevy van fit in it's place?

 Check to see if the neck is still securely attached to the tank.  If
the part where the cap goes on is what's bad, you can try straightening
it with pliers and a file.
                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 17 15:26:35 1994
Subject: Chevy 250 I-6 rebuild?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7368
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> The 250 and the 292 both have the same bore, but different stroke.
-> Could I replace the 250 crank with one from a 292 to make mine a 292?

 I've read the 292 block is significantly different from the 250 -
whether it's true and makes any difference, I don't know.  Your best bet
is to try to find a machine shop that has both cranks in stock and look
at them.


-> What I am striving for is TORQUE, so I am also looking for a cam to
-> increase low end torque and improve throttle response.  Who makes
-> cams for my plant?

 Most of the cam companies will be happy to do a torque cam for you.  I
like Sig Erson's RV-series grinds, but probably anyone's would be OK.


-> As a last question, has anyone heard about a single barrel Holly
-> Pro-jection kit?  I saw an article a while ago, but have heard
-> nothing since.

 The Pro-Jection is pretty low on the EFI food chain.  Even if they made
a 1bbl unit, it wouldn't be worth the money.  You could adapt an EFI
from something else, but you'd still have that awful intake manifold,
and aftermarket manifolds for the six are both expensive and not all
that much better, either.  I'd suggest changing to a different carb from
the Commode-O-Matic Chevy uses - either the little Holley one barrel the
Ford sixes used, or (better) the one-barrel Carter used by lots of
Chrysler products.  The carb on the Chevy is a bit... er... simplistic.
                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 17 16:46:26 1994
Subject: Re:  460 Lincoln in a Schoolbus?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7369
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

     The 391 and 460 bel housings are absolutely different.  I'm
   not sure how the allison trans connects but the C6 in the lincoln
   is a one piece transmission.   You may be able to get a later 
   model bus bell housing from a bus with a 351M/370/400/429/460
   with your transmission.  I believe that most if not all C6
   transmissions are one piece aluminum units.  I have them from
   351W,  400, 460, 429, and 428 motors and they are all one piece.
   
Bill


Only my opinions...

----------
Posted by: emory!genrad.com!wdp (William D. Poudrier)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 18 15:44:08 1994
Subject: X-GIF address change
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7370
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

We got a new system, so change the address to pine instead of sunset, 
otherwise the address is the same.
 Millam

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan 19 05:37:23 1994
Subject: TPI,EFI,TURBOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7371
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  I have a few questions concerning the pros and cons of TPI, EFI,
  and Turbos in terms of price, power, fuel economy, and ease of
  adaptation to an engine.  Frankly, I'm a bit confused concerning
  the operation of TPI, but have heard that it's a good stepping
  stone to power.  Ihave a basic understanding of Turbos and EFI.
  My questions mainly concern the concept of TPI, and the advantages
  of the above three.  I don't have an engine yet, so I want to
  know now what parameters to look out for when looking.  The only
  definites are that it will be a 350 Chevy going into a '69 
  Camaro.  Now, being seventeen, fuel economy is second only to
  power, so please phrase your response in the same vein.  Thanks
  a lot in advance for any info you can provide me with.
                                             Paul Grant
					mvkrg@mvubr.att.com

----------
Posted by: emory!mvubr.att.com!mvkrg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan 19 05:41:59 1994
Subject: Rebuilding 10-bolt
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7372
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey Folks,

My the rear end of my 71 el camino needs rebuilding, at least the guys
at the xmission shop said so (and it makes a lot of grinding noises).

I had a few questions and was wondering if any of you could give advice.

How much work and special tools are involved in rebuilding my 10-bolt.  
Are there books on it?  What kind of places carry parts?  Can I buy a 
rebuilt rear and put it in myself?  How risky is it to buy a unrebuilt, 
used rear end?  Is it hard to my unit to a posi?  If I just do street 
driving on a mostly stock 350, is it worth it to get a 12 bolt?

Thanks
dan osgood
deo@physics.berkeley.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!physics5.berkeley.edu!deo (Daniel Osgood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan 19 14:57:01 1994
Subject: chevy hi po parts for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7373
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	Note some new stuff has been added since last posting.
	===================
	Miscellaneous mostly USED Hi-Po parts - small chevy stuff unless
	stated otherwise
	USED  good condition unless stated otherwise

	Moroso 8 qt straight sump pan and pump with pickup
	Manley 3/8 .100 oversize hardened pushrods 
	NASCAR 5/16 .100 oversize hardened pushrods
	TRW 5/16 stock length hardened pushrods
	Fuel Pump regulator Mallory #4207 $50 NEW
	ATI SFI approved Flex plate shield powerglide $50 NEW
	600 holley double pump with moroso reuseable gaskets 
	Steel 7 degree 1.437 inch small chevy valve retainers
	Fram HPG-1 canister type Fuel Filter 
	Cam Dynamics Vacum reserve reservoir
	Stock 400 chev used rods - pistons on still but are junk
	400 chev balancer stock needs seal saver
	2 - 350 8 inch balancers stock
	4 stock 350 rods. balance pads heavily ground down
	K&N Substack
	Comp Cams magnum roller tip rockers 3/8 stud 1.52 ratio
	1 set poly locks 3/8 stud not for use on stud girdle
	1 inch 4 hole metal carb spacer - sq flange
	1 inch open plenum composite carb spacer sq flange
	1 inch moroso 4 hole bakelite carb spacer
	Moroso Air pan kit for single 4 bbl - new
	Engine oil cooler kit - universal style - new
	Edelbrock Street tunnel ram - almost new!
	10" 3600 stall convertor for TH350/400 2 seasons old
	8" 5000 stall GER convertor for TH350/400 1/2 season old
	Hurst Comp Plus shifter - body only - new
	BlackJack headers: See a catalog for details on these. all new
		#3016 65-70 impala small block
		#3701 CJ Jeep w/amc v8, under chassis
	Set TRW L3004F030 cast pistons for 351W 73-76 Ford new see cat. for detail.

Misc crud:
	Patch Panels:	New
		78-89 Suburban/Blazer/Truck Rear corner L & R
		76-89 Chevy Van - Sliding door lower edge
		AM-FM Mono radio out of 78 chevy van
		Tow receiver class 3 for 76-94 chevy van - used
		Thule #307 roof rack with locks NO OTHER acessories - new
			(48 inch rack with clamps for cars with gutters)

	All this stuff can go UPS. The patch panels and headers
	may provide me some packaging problems (if I have boxes for 
	those things they are really beat up.
	If you're interested in any of it, send offers or ask prices.
---

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan 19 15:07:27 1994
Subject: Chevy Rebuild
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7374
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Ok, I hope that this question gets some response, 

I am planning on rebuilding a Chevy 350 next summer, but I haven't gotten 
a block yet, 

What years (after 67) would you say are the easist (IE dont have smog 
equiptment, etc)

Any other Ideas or tips about buying a used motor would be appreciated...


-r.p.b



----------
Posted by: Wing-nut 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Wed Jan 19 16:50:13 1994
Subject: Administrivia:  New vendor list
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7375
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I forgot to announce this when I posted the new file last week.

Dave William's new Vendor list has been posted to the dixie.com
file server.  It has grown considerably and is now sent as 3 mail files.
To obtain this list, send mail to listserv@dixie.com and in the BODY
of the message say:

send vendors

That'll do it.
John

----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jan 19 20:39:51 1994
Subject: Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7376
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I hope this question isn't inappropriate for this list but:

Having been an avid user of Pennzoil for many years I was told that
Pennz causes a lot of sludge build up in the engine.  One should then not
use other brands of oil because it will 'clean' out the engine and cause
problems like excessive oil usage, etc.

Questions:
	1. is this really a problem with Pennz vs other oils
	2. what problems can be created by switching brands in the same engine
	3. how much difference is there between brands
	4. good brands?  brands to avoid?

e-mail answers or opinions may be best to avoid excessive use of this lists
bandwidth.

Thanks

e-mail	wstreet@netcom.com

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!wstreet (William Street)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 09:42:32 1994
Subject: Administrivia:  New vendor list
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7377
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Dave William's new Vendor list has been posted to the dixie.com file
-> server.  It has grown considerably and is now sent as 3 mail files.

 And that doesn't even include the stuff sent in by Chuck Fry, Ken
Mosher, Philip Ethier, and Scott Griffith.  Yee-hah!
                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 09:51:05 1994
Subject: 351W strength
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7378
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

What's the bottom end of a stock 351W like ?
Since the motor is running just fine at the moment and there are no
indications excessive wear, I was only planning on doing head work on
it. 
But .... ( I just can't help it) .... a few more ponies would be fun so
I was wondering about nitrous.
What level would be reasonably safe on a stock '74 (I think) motor ?

Next question ...

Do any of these software dyno type programs cater for sidevalve motors ?
What about blowers ?

Steve.

----------
Posted by: emory!kcbbs.gen.nz!Steve_Baldwin (Steve Baldwin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 18:50:18 1994
Subject: Re: 351W strength
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7379
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <=1v31+p@dixie.com> you wrote:
: What's the bottom end of a stock 351W like ?
: Since the motor is running just fine at the moment and there are no
: indications excessive wear, I was only planning on doing head work on
: it. 
: But .... ( I just can't help it) .... a few more ponies would be fun so
: I was wondering about nitrous.
: What level would be reasonably safe on a stock '74 (I think) motor ?
:

The 74 351, i know for sure, i have one in a fairlane, is a cast crank
with 3" mains, and two bolt caps.  It is strong enough, in my opinion, 
for around 450 hp with a good, thorough check for cracks, etc.

Watch how much Nitrous you use, the crank is cast!
351W's are good to about 6000 rpm, and after that, the crank journals 
are spinning at enough velocity that you might burn a journal.

Good luck!

Mark
 

----------
Posted by: Mark Shirley 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 18:59:20 1994
Subject: 351W strength
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7380
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> What's the bottom end of a stock 351W like ?

 In a word, beefy.  The bearings are bigger than a 454 Chevy's, for
example.


-> I was wondering about nitrous.
-> What level would be reasonably safe on a stock '74 (I think) motor ?

 You'd be limited by the stock cast pistons.  Otherwise, feed it all the
juice you want.
                                                                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 19:08:47 1994
Subject: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7381
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  My brother finally returned my Offenhauser catalog.  He borrowed it
in 1986.  Doesn't matter much - Offy claims they can still make anything
they ever made, from Studebaker intakes to flathead heads.

  I was wrong - Offy *does* make intakes for the 216-235-261 Chevy
sixes.  Two one-barrels or three one-barrels.  They just don't list them
with the 194-230-250-292 engines.

  Offy makes some... unusual stuff.  You want a dual-spreadbore, low
riser intake for a small block Ford?  Two Quadrajets recommended (1500
CFM!)  How about six Strombergs on your 305 Chevy?  Hell, how about a
dual quad intake for your AMC 304-401?

  Buick, AMC, Chrysler, and Olds fans will find a lot of stuff here,
since Offy is unlike other companies, which usually specialize in small
block Chevy stuff.  Offy builds manifolds for Ford, Buick, and Chevy
V6s, Mazda, Toyota, and Nissan fours.

  Most engines have a choice of tunnel rams, high rise, medium rise,
and low rise intakes.  They make 1x4, 2x4, and 3xWeber tops for the
tunnel rams.  Most of the rest are available in 1x4 or 2x4
configurations, square or spread bore.  The Dual Ports are available for
most engines. I've owned a couple of those, on various engines.
They're-a-verra-nahss. How about a single Dominator intake for the Olds
V8?  Dual quads for an old Buick nailhead?  Want to put a 600 Holley on
a flathead Ford?  Two one barrels or a single four barrel on your Slant
Six?  How about a six pack manifold for an early Olds?   Smokey Ram
style or cross ram intake for your Chevy?  It goes on and on.

  Offy does more than manifolds.  How about cast aluminum valve covers
for Studebaker, Triumph TR2, Corvair, or Toyota Land Cruiser?  New
heads for your flathead Ford?  A nice air bonnet for your remote air
filter or turbo?  High pressure oil pump springs for Ford small six,
430 Lincoln, early Cadillac or Buick, or small block Chevy?  Cast
aluminum headlight brackets for street rods?  Transmission adapters
or bellhousings for truly bizarre swaps, like Nash to Toyota, Studebaker
to Jeep, or Packard into early Ford?  Main cap reinforcement straps for
practically anything?  Cast aluminum oil pans for Corvair?  How about
some intake bells, ready to weld onto your fuel injector stacks?
Need velocity stacks for Stromberg or Holley two barrels?  What about
those nifty cast aluminum valve cover breathers you see on Top Fuel
motors?  Cast aluminum accessory guage panels?

  If you're working on an older car, you owe it to yourself to take a
look at an Offy catalog sometime.
                                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 19:19:53 1994
Subject: 20 seconds of fun
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7382
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey Hotrod list!
  Well, my bestest bud and I made the plunge into the wonderful world
of 4-wheel drive stadium racing.  :-)  We decided to try our luck at
the local "Tough Truck Contest" portion of the Monster Truck Bash.  We
spent a week getting our truck ready.  We picked the shittiest truck
we could dig up (we figured it would probably end up rammed into the
wall anyway :-) and came up with one of his Blazers.  We shoehorned in
a nice Chevy 402 of mine, no problems.  Plopped in a unilite and MSD 6AL
that he had, and checked the Carbs.  In addition to the fact that the
body was 3/4 of the way from rusting off of the body mounts, the 3"
lift blocks were all loose.  After tightening everything up and 
reinforcing the battery box, we took it for a test spin.  (Note,  you
really have to see just what this motley thing looks like.  The fenders
and 1/4 panels are cut out to fit 44" tires, the body is all to shit 
everywhere else, and where there is metal, it is covered by red primer
or silver spray paint.  :-) :-)  Anyway, after warming up the engine
and Th350, I pulled a holeshot.  All 4 40" monster mudders howled
as the engine quickly spooled up to the 3500 stall.  Still spinning in
first, I short shifted into 2nd at about 6200 RPM and let off.  Heh heh.
My friend won the coin toss, and got to drive in the contest.  (Damn, I was
really looking forward to getting air!)  Anyway, our turn came: the first
half of the course went well with two jumps.  My friend sent the 
Hell-Blazer straight into the air on the second one.  He barely had time
land, get straightened out and make a hairpin turn.  The second half of
the course was not so gentle...  On the first jump, he stood on the 
throttle too early; the back tires were still in the air; the rear
came down:  bang!  There went the pinion out of the rear.  The rear
U-joint was shattered and the rear driveshaft fell out.  The second part
I can't figure: The transmission was actually split in half.  I don't
know if it was the shock of the drivetrain, or the possibility that
the transmission came down right on the second jump???  Oh well,
We wasted some parts, but we sure had a blast in the process.  We
don't feel too bad, since over half of the entries in the "Tough Truck"
contest had to be towed out of the civic center!

Oh, well, I guess its back to that damn T-bucket now...
jC.  jca@fibercom.com

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 19:29:50 1994
Subject: Re: Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7383
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I don't know who you told you that stuff about Penzoil, but in my opinion,
it couldn't be farther from the thr truth.  I use it exclusively in EVERY
car that my family owns (6 cars) ranging from my parent's Chevy station
wagon, my sister's 139,000 Pontiac Gran Prix (with the V-6 no less!), to
my 12-second '70 Chevelle.  No oiling problems with any of them.  I do,
however, change the oild regularly (3,000-4,000) in all the vehicles.

-David Studly,  dstudly@oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu

----------
Posted by: David Studly 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 20 19:41:12 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy Rebuild
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7384
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



> Ok, I hope that this question gets some response, 
> 
> I am planning on rebuilding a Chevy 350 next summer, but I haven't gotten 
> a block yet, 
> 
> What years (after 67) would you say are the easist (IE dont have smog 
> equiptment, etc)
> 
> Any other Ideas or tips about buying a used motor would be appreciated...
> 
> Posted by: Wing-nut 



There are a couple of things I can think of.  As far as I know a block is 
a block.  The block should not be effected by emissions control equiptment.  

The heads are one of the important things.  I would recommend a set of heads 
from 1973 or newer as they have hardened valve seats.  Some of the older heads 
may flow better but, if you use them you will need to have hardened valve seats
installed.  I hope I'm right about the year.  I'm a MOPAR man not a GM man but I 
hope this helps.  Good luck!


The Pied Piper

----------
Posted by: emory!eos.ncsu.edu!jlwoodar (The Pied Piper)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 21 11:24:01 1994
Subject: Re: Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7385
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


My personal experience with Pennzoil occurred quite a few
years ago.  I was having a valve job done on a small block
Chevy and the mechanic told me "you've been using Pennzoil".
I was dumbfounded and asked him how he could tell.  He
pointed to a greenish deposit on the inside back of the block
and said that Pennzoil always left that kind of a deposit there.

I decided that something which would leave greenish (copper?)
deposits inside the engine wasn't what I wanted to be using.

Since then I was using Valvoline but I gave up on that when
the oil pump regulator got sticky in one engine which had
been sitting unused for a while.  Must have left some heavy
deposits in there.

My current choice is Castrol.  I don't like their advertising
but their oil seems to be OK for my engines and driving
conditions.

Bob Hale          hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 21 12:11:32 1994
Subject: Re: Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7386
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>I hope this question isn't inappropriate for this list but:
>
>Having been an avid user of Pennzoil for many years I was told that
>Pennz causes a lot of sludge build up in the engine.  One should then not
>use other brands of oil because it will 'clean' out the engine and cause
>problems like excessive oil usage, etc.
>
>Questions:
>	1. is this really a problem with Pennz vs other oils
>	2. what problems can be created by switching brands in the same engine
>	3. how much difference is there between brands
>	4. good brands?  brands to avoid?


	I don't claim to be an oils expert, but I think it's safe to say that
for any oil that meets modern API service ratings, this is hogwash.  If an
engine is well-maintained and the oil is changed frequently, you can just
about use anything and the motor will stay whistle-clean inside, unless you
have other problems.

	Any oils of the same API service rating are miscible.  You can mix
Castrol with Pennzoil with Quaker State with Valvoline with some generic
brand you bought at the local discount department store, so long as they
meet the same API service rating (e.g., SE, SF, SG for gasoline engines,
CD or CE for diesels.  The letter codes must match for the oils you're
mixing), as that's part of the API standard:  miscibility.

	You can also mix mineral oils with synthetic oils.  In fact, the
mixture leans more toward the properties of synthetics than it does towards
that of mineral oils.

	HOWEVER, you must be careful of mixing synthetics, as the different
base stocks may not be compatible even though the additive packages are
compatible.  Check the bottle for some message to the effect "okay to mix
with other synthetics."

	As synthetics go, Mobil 1 is absolutely the best bang for the buck.
Other oils provide only marginal advantages at much increased cost.

	Source:  Ed Hackett, a chemical engineer and researcher for the
University of Nevada, who does this sort of thing for a living.

	I'll post the latest version of Ed's oil FAQ, unless Ed or someone
else beats me to it, if there's interest.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 21 14:52:44 1994
Subject: Re: Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7387
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Could you post or e-mail me the latest version of Ed's Oil FAQ.

Thanks,

Herb Samuels

----------
Posted by: Herb Samuels 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 21 15:01:52 1994
Subject: Re: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7388
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Do you have a phone number or address  for Offy so I can get a
catalog?

Thanks,

Herb Samuels

----------
Posted by: Herb Samuels 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 21 17:38:45 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-3*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7389
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  A special 
thanks also to Steve Seely for providing the info. on Winston Cup 
coverage.  PLEASE confirm dates and times with your local listings before 
setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Motoworld                             01/21    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
AMA SUPERCROSS                        01/21    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/22    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (emissions stuff)  01/22    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/22    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/22    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/22    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty ('vettes)     01/22    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Motoworld                             01/23    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/23    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/23    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Terry Labonte)               01/23    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/23    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/23    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/23   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
AMA, LOUDON CLASSIC (T)               01/23    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Terry Labonte)               01/23    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (emissions stuff)  01/23    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/23    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/23    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/23    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/23    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/23    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/23   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/24    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty ('vettes)     01/24    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/24    9:00-10:55AM     HBO
This Week On Pit Road                 01/24    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Best of AMA Supercross                01/24    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/25    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Thrills & Spills (racing??)           01/25    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
Movie: The Road Warrior               01/25    4:45-6:20AM      HBO
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 01/25    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/26    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             01/26    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
Best of AMA Supercross                01/26    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/27    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Best of AMA Supercross                01/27    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Motorweek (Galant & Hummer)           01/27    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/28    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
SODA, OFF-ROAD CHAMPS., CRANDON (T)   01/28    4:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/28    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 01/28    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             01/28    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/29    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

DAYTONA 24 HOURS, START (?)           02/05    TBA              TBA
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/06    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/06    7:30-8:30PM      TNN
DAYTONA 24 HOURS, FINISH (?)          02/06    TBA              TBA
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/07    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     02/07    1:00-2:00AM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA TWIN 125'S (?)   02/17    TBA              TBA
BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (?)                 02/19    TBA              TBA
IROC #1, DAYTONA (?)                  02/28 (live coverage unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:15PM          CBS
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00PM           TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:30PM          TNN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                03/05    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    TBA              TBA
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS (?)            03/19    TBA              TBA
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    TBA              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (?)            03/20    TBA              TBA
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (?) 03/20    TBA              TBA
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (?)              03/26    TBA              TBA
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (?)               03/26 (live coverage unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (L)                 03/27    TBA          ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/27    1:00PM           ESPN

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 21 20:50:09 1994
Subject: Re: Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7390
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I was dumbfounded and asked him how he could tell.  He
>pointed to a greenish deposit on the inside back of the block
>and said that Pennzoil always left that kind of a deposit there.
[snip]
>My current choice is Castrol.  I don't like their advertising
>but their oil seems to be OK for my engines and driving
>conditions.
>
>Bob Hale          hale@brooktree.com

My experience is a little dated, but what the heck :).  In the mid-70's I
tore down an Olds 455 with 90,000 miles which had received Quaker State and
a filter every 3,000 to 4,000 miles since new.  Under the intake manifold
the sludge was so thick that I had to dig down 1/4" to uncover some of the
pushrods.  Sludge was up to 3/4" thick in places.  I asked several mechanic
friends and they all said that that was normal for Quaker State.

After this I rebuilt our '68 VW (air cooled 4 cylinder) and started racing
it, along with a lot of street miles.  It too had had Quaker State in it
and had a good coating of sludge.  I switched to Valvoline Racing Oil,
since that was what all the local racers used (in their water cooled V8's).
 I popped the valve covers off about every 1,000 to 2,000 miles to check
the valve lash, and always noticed some sludge buildup starting in the
corners.  The oil was changed every 3,000 miles.  I then switched over to
Castrol GTX and everything stayed spotlessly clean ever since.

My conclusion was that Quaker State was junk, Valvoline was ok in an engine
that didn't see extreme heat, and Castrol GTX was the best.  I think all
these oils were rated SD, the highest rating at the time.  I run Castrol
GTX now in my turbo Regal.

My $0.02 worth,

Carl Ijames     ijames@helix.nih.gov


----------
Posted by: emory!helix.nih.gov!ijames (Carl F. Ijames)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 22 12:20:55 1994
Subject: 350's
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7391
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Wingnut or john doe,

350 blocks are all basically the same smog won't affect it. I would 
go for the "crate motor" myself. Smog laws are the best thing to happen 
to American auto makers. If it weren't for smog control American automakers
would still be ****ing around with carbs. Sorry, but new law has pushed the 
Big Three to design and build these engines that were only pipe dreams.
Another note is TPI probably the best thing to come around for along time
Smog or no smog your best bet is not to waste time on crapy old carbs.
Go with the real stuff. Cost or not engines with management controls
have much more to offer! You can buy factory direct from GM a 350
with all the goodies w/350 horse ready to go. 

Sorry, but carbs suck! No matter what people say about smog it was
the best thing to happen to the big three next to Japan!

Only my point of view, nobody else's.

See ya,
mpq

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 22 12:29:54 1994
Subject: Re: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7392
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Do you have a phone number or address  for Offy so I can get a
-> catalog?

 What?!  You don't have the Vendor List?  Shame, shame...

Offenhauser                     manifolds                        03/86
PO Box 32218
LA CA 90032
213-225-1307
                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 22 21:39:01 1994
Subject: Re: TPI,EFI,TURBOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7393
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Sounds like a good idea.  I've written a couple of letters to some aftermarket
EFI companies and I am waiting their response.  Mail me a note in about 2-4 weeks and I'll post you some interesting comments.

You're lucky in a way that you're using a 350 because I've seen alot of ads for
EFI for this engine.  (I have a 351-c in a '69 convertible mustang, and I doubt
if I can get port injection).

I've only read a few articles on EFI, but throttle body injects the mixture
into the manifold while port injection fires it right into the port.  One advantage of port over throttle is more even distribution of mixture to all the
cylinders.  Also, some port injection systems inject fuel at the optimum time
of the crank cylce thereby being even more fuel efficient  (as opposed to 
injectors simultaneously injecting fuel).

anyways, good luck, and try to get first-hand advise on the DURABILITY and
RELIABILITY of aftermarket EFI.  You don't want to throuw away your EFI system after 1 year.

Waleed Khan
khan@ee.ualberta.ca


----------
Posted by: Waleed Khan 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 23 18:37:42 1994
Subject: Re: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7394
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  What?!  You don't have the Vendor List?  Shame, shame...


Where/how do I get a copy of the vender list?
Thanks :)

----------
Posted by: emory!LINDEN.MSVU.CA!RRAY (Robert Ray)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 24 12:07:55 1994
Subject: Re: TPI,EFI,TURBOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7395
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Port FI does not inhernetly have better mixture distibution than
TBI.  For example, with stock GM TPI manifolds, airflow can
vary as much as 10% cylinder to cylinder at part throttle, while all
of the injectors are firing at the same pulse width.  And in the
case of GM TPI, that imbalance changes as a function of RPM and
airflow, so across the board correction factors won't work.


--
     lusky@jackatak.raider.net (Jon Lusky)
------------jackatak.raider.net   (615) 377-5980 ------------

----------
Posted by: Jon Lusky 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 24 18:46:05 1994
Subject: Oil facts (long)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7396
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

By request, here is a *very* informative post on oils, authored by Ed Hackett.
Ed is a chemical engineer who works for the University of Nevada's Desert
Research facility.  An earlier version of this article included some pretty
disparaging information that suggests that oil additives such as Slick 50,
Duralube, et al, are actually *harmful* to your engine.  I have a copy of a
Road Rider article that lays into these snake oils in great detail.  I'll be
happy to post that, too, unless John says no, in which case, perhaps I could
submit them to the archives for mailserver retrieval?


--------- Begin included text
Warning, raw, unedited, hardcore DATA follows, children under 18 and
those with weak hearts should leave the room or change the channel.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: Re: Newbie Oil Question (Facts added)(long)
Message-ID: <3263@equinox.unr.edu>
Date: 2 Apr 92 19:33:31 GMT
References: <1992Mar27.174355.19779@cupnews0.cup.hp.com> <1992Mar28.005126.6735@cupnews0.cup.hp.com> <1992Mar30.190612.16726@watdragon.waterloo.edu>
Sender: news@equinox.unr.edu
Reply-To: edh@wheeler.unr.edu (Ed Hackett)
Organization: Desert Research Institute, University of Nevada
Lines: 301

In article <1992Mar30.190612.16726@watdragon.waterloo.edu> rblander@watdragon.waterloo.edu (Robyn Landers) writes:

>	Right, so where's Ed Hackett and his voluminous posting on oil
>when we need him?  Please, Ed, stem the flow of speculation and
>provide the factual additives to this discussion so we can filter
>out the truth from the myths.

I'm here, I'm here,  our news feed has been a bit (a whole lot)
flakey so I am just seeing the articles.  I hope this makes it out.

First, I will answer a couple of questions asked by another.  Yes,
it is OK to mix mineral and syntetic oils.   One of the early
synthetics used was a Polyalkylene Glycol.   This was totally
incompatable and would gel when mixed.  This has not been used for
years for automotive lubrication.  All common syntetics used for
engine lubrication now days are a Polyalphaolefin (Mobil 1) or a
Dibasic Organic Ester type (AMSOIL).   These are fully compatable
with conventional oils.  In fact Golden Spectro and AGIP Sint 2000
are mixtures of mineral and synthetic oils.   It is always best to
mix oils with the same rating  (SG).  This insures that the
additive packages are compatable and will maintain their
effectiveness.

All engine oils use an organic Zinc compound  as an extreme
pressure/anti wear additive.  Spectro adds more to their Motorcycle
oil than to the car oil because Zinc is a poison to catalytic
converters.  You will also see that some "car" oil contains more
than their motorcycle oil.   The difference in Zinc content between
.11% and .16% is insignificant to the converter.  The little data I
saw on the oils packaged by the motorcycle manufacturers indicated
that they were no better than the top automotive oils.  While most
were good, they didn't offer anything the cheaper oils do.  (They
are in reality just repackaged and in some cases slightly
reformulated  top grade auto oils).

The following is a slightly modified repost of my original article.
I have added a few bits that address some FAQs.  (long)
____________________________________________________________________

Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently
in discussions between motoheads, whether they are talking about
motorcycles or cars.  The following article is intended to help
you make a choice based on more than the advertizing hype.

Oil companies provide data on their oils most often refered to
as "typical inspection data".  This is an average of the actual
physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils.  This
information is available to the public through their
distributors or by writing or calling the company directly.  I
have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready
comparison can be made.  If your favorite oil is not on the list
get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data
base. 

This article is going to look at six of the most important
properties of a motor oil readily availiable to the public: viscosity,
viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash,
and % zinc.

Viscosity is the measure of how thick an oil is.  This is 
the most important property for an engine.  An oil with too
low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high
temperatures.  An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to
the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at
high rpm. 

The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the
S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond
to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques.
These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that
fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by
the S.A.E.  The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity
at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use.

The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to
their S.A.E. assigned numbers.  The relationship of gear oils to
engine oils is also shown.

_______________________________________________________________
|                                                             |
|      SAE Gear Viscosity Number                              |
|  ________________________________________________________   |
|  |75W |80W  |85W|    90        |        140             |   |
|  |____|_____|___|______________|________________________|   |
|                                                             |
|     SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number                         |
|  ____________________________                               |
|  |10| 20  | 30 | 40  |  50  |                               |
|  |__|_____|____|_____|______|                               |
______________________________________________________________
2  4  6  8  10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42 
                 viscosity cSt @ 100 degrees C


Multi viscosity oils work like this:  Polymers are added to a light
base(5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as
it warms up.  At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and
allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate.  As the oil
warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent
the oil from thinning as much as it normally would.  The result is
that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher 
viscosity number indicates.
Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as 
a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.

Multi viscosity oils are one of the great
improvements in oils, but they should be chosen wisely.  Always
use a multi grade with the narrowest span of viscosity that is
appropriate for the temperatures you are going to encounter.
The polymers can shear and burn forming deposits that can
cause ring sticking and other problems. 10W-40 and 5W-30 require a lot 
of polymers(synthetics excluded) to achieve that range.  This has
caused problems in diesel engines, but fewer polymers are better
for all engines.  The wide viscosity range oils, in general, are
more prone to viscosity and thermal breakdown due to the high
polymer content.
Very few manufactures recommend 10W-40 any more, and some
threaten to void warranties if it is used.  It was not included
in this article for that reason.  20W-50 is the same 30 point
spread, but because it starts with a heavier base it requires
less viscosity index improvers (polymers) to do the job.  AMSOIL
can formulate their 10W-30 and 15W-40  with no viscosity index
improvers but uses some in the 10W-40 and 5W-30.  Mobil 1 uses no
viscosity improvers in their 5W-30, and I assume the new 10W-30.
Follow your manufacturer's recommendations as to which weights are
appropriate for your vehicle.

Viscosity Index is an empirical number indicating the rate of
change in viscosity of an oil within a given temperature range.
Higher numbers indicate a low change, lower numbers indicate a
relatively large change.  The higher the number the better.  This
is one major property of an oil that keeps your bearings happy.
These numbers can only be compared within a viscosity range.  It is
not an indication of how well the oil resists thermal breakdown.

Flash point is the temperature at which an oil gives off vapors
that can be ignited with a flame held over the oil.  The lower
the flash point the greater tendancy for the oil to suffer
vaporization loss at high temperatures and to burn off on hot
cylinder walls and pistons.
The flash point can be an indicator of the quality
of the base stock used.  The higher the flash point the better.
400 F is the minimum to prevent possible high consumption. 
Flash point is in degrees F.

Pour point is 5 degrees F above the point at which a chilled oil
shows no movement at the surface for 5 seconds when inclined.
This measurement is especially important for oils used in the
winter.  A borderline pumping temperature is given by some
manufacturers. This is the temperature at which the oil will
pump and maintain adequate oil pressure.  This was not given by
a lot of the manufacturers, but seems to be about 20 degrees F above
the pour point. The lower the pour point the better. Pour point
is in degrees F.

% sulfated ash is how much solid material is left when the oil
burns.  A high ash content will tend to form more sludge and
deposits in the engine. Low ash content also seems to promote 
long valve life.  Look for oils with a low ash content.

% zinc is the amount of zinc used as an extreme pressure, anti-
wear additive.  The zinc is only used when there is actual
metal to metal contact in the engine.  Hopefully the oil will do
its job and this will rarely occur, but if it does, the zinc
compounds react with the metal to prevent scuffing and wear.  A
level of .11% is enough to protect an automobile engine for the
extended oil drain interval, under normal use.
Those of you with high reving, air cooled
motorcycles or turbo charged cars or bikes might want to look
at the oils with the higher zinc content.  More doesn't give you
better protection, it gives you longer protection if the rate of
metal to metal contact is abnormally high.  High zinc content
can lead to deposit formation and plug fouling.

The Data:   
Listed alphabetically    --- indicates the data was not avaliable

Brand                    VI    Flash    Pour    %ash   %zinc

20W-50
AMSOIL                  136     482     -38     <.5     ---
Castrol GTX             122     440     -15     .85     .12
Exxon High Performance  119     419     -13     .70     .11
Havoline Formula 3      125     465     -30     1.0     ---
Kendall GT-1            129     390     -25     1.0     .16
Pennzoil GT Perf.       120     460     -10     .9      ---
Quaker State Dlx.       155     430     -25     .9      ---
Shell Truck Guard       130     450     -15     1.0     .15
Spectro Golden 4        174     440     -35     ---     .15
Spectro Golden M.G.     174     440     -35     ---     .13
Unocal                  121     432     -11     .74     .12
Valvoline All Climate   125     430     -10     1.0     .11
Valvoline Turbo         140     440     -10     .99     .13
Valvoline Race          140     425     -10     1.2     .20

20W-40
Castrol Multi-Grade     110     440     -15     .85     .12
Quaker State            121     415     -15     .9      ---

15W-50
Chevron                204      415     -18     .96     .11
Mobil 1                180      430     -55     ---     ---
Mystic JT8             144      420     -20     1.7     .15

15W-40
AMSOIL                 135      460     -38     <.5     ---
Castrol                134      415     -15     1.3     .14
Chevron Delo 400       136      421     -27     1.0     ---
Exxon XD3              ---      417     -11     .9      .14
Exxon XD3 Extra        135      399     -11     .95     .13
Kendall GT-1           135      410     -25     1.0     .16
Mystic JT8             142      440     -20     1.7     .15
Shell Rotella w/XLA    146      410     -25     1.0     .13
Valvoline All Fleet    140      ---     -10     1.0     .15
Valvoline Turbo        140      420     -10     .99     .13

10W-30
AMSOIL                 142      480     -70     <.5     ---
Castrol GTX            140      415     -33     .85     .12
Chevron Supreme        150      401     -26     .96     .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135      392     -22     .70     .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133      400     -31     .85     .13
Havoline Formula 3     139      430     -30     1.0     ---
Kendall GT-1           139      390     -25     1.0     .16
Mobil 1                ---      430     -60     ---     ---
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo     140      410     -27     1.0     ---
Quaker State           156      410     -30     .9      ---
Shell Fire and Ice     155      410     -35     .9      .12
Shell Super 2000       155      410     -35     1.0     .13
Shell Truck Guard      155      405     -35     1.0     .15
Spectro Golden M.G.    175      405     -40     ---     ---
Unocal Super           153      428     -33     .92     .12
Valvoline All Climate  130      410     -26     1.0     .11
Valvoline Turbo        135      410     -26     .99     .13
Valvoline Race         130      410     -26     1.2     .20

5W-30
AMSOIL                 168      480     -76     <.5     ---
Castrol GTX            156      400     -35     .80     .12
Chevron Supreme        202?     354     -46     .96     .11
Exxon Superflow HP     148      392     -22     .70     .11
Havoline Formula 3     158      420     -40     1.0     ---
Mobil 1                150      430     -65     ---     ---
Mystic JT8             161      390     -25     .95     .1
Quaker State           165      405     -35     .9      ---
Shell Fire and Ice     167      405     -35     .9      .12
Unocal                 151      414     -33     .81     .12
Valvoline All Climate  135      405     -40     1.0     .11
Valvoline Turbo        158      405     -40     .99     .13

All of the oils above meet current SG/CD ratings and all
vehicle manufacture's warranty requirements in the proper viscosity.
All are "good enough", but those with the better numbers are icing on
the cake.  
The more expensive synthetics; AMSOIL, Mobil 1, 
and Spectro offer the only truly significant differences, due
to their superior high temperature oxidation resistance, high film
strength, very low tendancy to form deposits,  
stable viscosity base, and low temperature flow characteristics.
Synthetics are superior lubricants compared to
traditional petroleum oils.  You will have to decide if their high
cost is justifed in your application.

The extended oil drain intervals given by the vehicle
manufacturers(typically 7500 miles) and synthetic oil companies(up
to 25,000 miles) 
are for what is called normal service.  Normal service is
defined as the engine at normal operating temperature, at
highway speeds, and in a dust free environment.  Stop and go, 
city driving, trips of less than 10 miles, or exterme heat or cold puts
the oil change interval into the severe service category, which is
3000 miles for most vehicles.  Synthetics can be run two to three
times the mileage of petroleum oils with no problems.  They do not
react to combustion and combustion by-products to the extent that
the dead dinosaur juice does.  The longer drain intervals possible
help take the bite out of the higher cost of the synthetics.  
If your car or bike is still under warranty you will have
to stick to the recommended drain intervals.  These are set for
petroleum oils and the manufacturers make no official allowance for
the use of synthetics.

Oil additives should not be used.  The oil companies have gone
to great lengths to develop an additive package that meets the
vehicle's requirements.  Some of these additives are synergistic,
that is the effect of two additives together is greater than the effect
of each acting separately.  If you add anything to the oil you may
upset this balance and prevent the oil from performing to
specification. 

The numbers above are not, by any means, all there is to determining
what makes a top quality oil.
The exact base stock used, the type, quality, and
quantity of additives used are very important. 
The given data combined with the manufacturer's
claims, your personal experience, and the reputation of the oil
among others who use it should help you make an informed choice.

 Ed Hackett                  The Desert Research Institute 
 edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu     Reno, Nevada   (702) 673-7380   
 DoD #200 WMTC BMWRA DIOC   I'm not really a chemist, I'm just one of
 DUCATI 900SS  BMW K100RS    them motorsicle sonsabitches.   __=o&o>__

Path: javelin.sim.es.com!orca!uunet!nevada.edu!jimi!equinox!wheeler.wrc.unr.edu!edh
From: edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles
Subject: New oil data
Message-ID: <4664@equinox.unr.edu>
Date: 16 Oct 92 20:36:56 GMT
Sender: news@equinox.unr.edu
Reply-To: edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu ()
Organization: Desert Research Institute, University of Nevada
Lines: 34

I just recieved this data from our local oil distributor.  It is
the update on the new Mobil 1 formulation and that for the new
Castrol Syntec.  They did not have the numbers for the new
Valvoline synthetics yet.  The data on the new Mobil 1 is pretty
impressive.  Based on these numbers, price, and availiability,
there is little need to look further for a synthetic oil.

The Syntec seems to be compromised by it's wide viscosity range.
Notice that the pour point is for all practical purposes, no
better than the Mobil 1 15W-50.  (actually, it's not as good) 
While, meeting the viscosity parmeters, the wide range is 
probably for marketing purposes.  The Mobil 1 15W-50 will pump at
-35 degrees F, which is as good as some conventinal 5W-30 oils.

Any of the ester based synthetics (AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Syntec),
will give you the benefits that Castrol is making a big deal of in
their advertising.  The ability to cling to metal walls is due to
the polar nature of the ester base stock, not something unique to
Castrol's formulation.

The Data: (add to your current article)

Brand and Weight     VI    Flash     Pour     %ash     %zinc

Syntec 5W-50        180     437      -49      1.2      0.10

Mobil 1  5W-30      165     445      -65      ---      ---
	10W-30      160     450      -65      ---      ---
	15W-50      170     470      -55      ---      ---

 Ed Hackett   edh@wheeler.wrc.unr.edu     The Desert Research Institute 
 DoD #0200  WMTC  BMWRA  DIOC             Reno, Nevada   (702) 673-7380   
 KotLS  KtoLE  DotD #0003            I'm not really a chemist, I'm just one of
 900SS  K100RS  501 CAMEL            them motorsickle sonsabitches.  __=o&o>__

------------ End included text

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 24 19:42:57 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7397
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> My experience is a little dated, but what the heck :).  In the mid-70's I
> tore down an Olds 455 with 90,000 miles which had received Quaker State and
> a filter every 3,000 to 4,000 miles since new.  Under the intake manifold
> the sludge was so thick that I had to dig down 1/4" to uncover some of the
> pushrods.  Sludge was up to 3/4" thick in places.  I asked several mechanic
> friends and they all said that that was normal for Quaker State.

I recently opened up a Buick 340 with 100,000 miles and found quite a lot
of sludge.  What was surprising was that the sludge had a light grey color.
I would have guessed that sludge was very dark in color, black even.  Can
anybody elaborate on this?

 
-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 John Greeven                               | "When you are racing, it's life.
 Intergraph Corporation                     |  Anything that happens before
 USPS: 381 East Evelyn Avenue               |  or after... it's just waiting."
       Mt. View, CA 94041-1530              | 
 Phone: (415) 691-6573                      |       -Steve McQueen, LeMans
 Fax:   (415) 691-9016                     |      
 E-Mail: greeven@clipper.ingr.com           |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!speedy.clipper.ingr.com!greeven (John Greeven)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 14:43:18 1994
Subject: Re: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7398
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>>Hell, how about a dual quad intake for your AMC 304-401?

Hey!! I have one of those. All that was available at the time was the manifold.  
Nothing else. You either had to run a pair of Carters or manufacture your own  
adapter plates to run Holleys or whatever. I opted to have the plates made for  
a pair of Holleys, and I whipped up my own throttle linkage. I tossed nitrous  
on top to boot. The manifold worked well, the nitrous plates along with the  
adapter plates wasn't the cleanest looking setup but it worked. Next time I get  
this car together, I will consider plumbing the nitrous spray bars in the  
manifold. Any comments on this method? 
--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scol@scottsdale.az.stratus.com
**********************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!az.stratus.com!scol (Scott Colbath)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 14:52:39 1994
Subject: Re: TPI,EFI,TURBOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7399
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>Port FI does not inhernetly have better mixture distibution than
>TBI.  For example, with stock GM TPI manifolds, airflow can
>vary as much as 10% cylinder to cylinder at part throttle, while all
>of the injectors are firing at the same pulse width.  And in the
>case of GM TPI, that imbalance changes as a function of RPM and
>airflow, so across the board correction factors won't work.

	So you're saying to do it right you need basically one feedback
loop per cylinder?  That entails one O2 sensor per cylinder and MAF sensors
in each runner, right?

	I've been toying with the idea of taking a set of Keihin flat slides
from a motorcycle and running one carb per cylinder on a V8, and fabbing a
ram-air manifold to feed them.  Flat slides are expensive, but breaking up
a pair of carb racks from crashed ZX-11s, for example (40mm bores apiece,
CV-style carbs), wouldn't be terribly prohibitive.  I have doubts whether
such carbs would be able to provide adequate fuel to a big block on full boil,
but you really wouldn't know until you tried.

[The biggest problem you'll have, as people who put motorcycle engines
in race cars have learned, is that the carbs are not designed to handle
lateral G loading.  There is very little lateral G loading on a motorcycle
because it leans to compensate.  You'd probably have to do some sort of
baffling to keep gas on the jets.  JGD]

	It seems like the closest you can get to independent metering per
cylinder without going to "one channel per cylinder" TPI.  It's an
interesting though experiment, anyway.

	Can you imagine the strange look you'd get when you mentioned that
"synchronizing the carbs" was part of your tuneup ritual for your hotrod?  :-)

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 15:04:29 1994
Subject: engine sizes, weights etc...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7400
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I believe it was on this list a while ago i saw a list of engine 
weights and sizes, I'm interested in most standard V8s and in particular
the jaguar V-12.  I'm looking for an interesting engine to drop in a 
280Z, and a 350 is too common.  Any help would be appreciated.

walkerr@wpi.wpi.edu

----------
Posted by: Robert A Walker 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 15:11:42 1994
Subject: 100hp Nitrous
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7401
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Has anybody any experience on the NOS cheater or simular systems
on an mildly modified engine? Or to be more specific:

Chevy 350 w/ cast pistons, 4bbl holley. Headders. 9.5 C/R. 2-bolt
mains. Auto trans.

I heard that when using NOS, the timing has to be retarded. Is this
true for the small 100hp systems also?

Will a 100hp system give any problems like detonation, excessive
wear etc? Would I need a rpm-actuator or could the NOS just be
switched on at idle before launch? Would I have to adjust the
timing before using the NOS? 

I was thinking of using a small fuel-cell for the gas that goes to
the NOS and thereby keeping my tank and fuel system stock. In this fuel 
cell I could use high octane gas with octane booster. Would this eliminate 
detonation so I can keep my timing? I don't want to have to adjust timing 
before I can use the system. I also can't afford those timing retard 
computers.

Thanks for any input.

Markus


----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 18:41:44 1994
Subject: Re: engine sizes, weights et
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7402
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>engine sizes, weights etc..
[...I'm interested in most standard V8s and in particular
the jaguar V-12.  I'm looking for an interesting engine to drop in a 
280Z, and a 350 is too common.  Any help would be appreciated....]

How about a Buick?

That would be interesting ... to me at least!  Good candidates would be a 455
(only weighs about 50 pounds more than a Chevy 350, but pretty wide), the
Buick/Rover 215 V8 (aluminum and light), or the turbo drivetrain from a Buick
Grand National/T-Type (ok, so it's not a V8 ... it would be light and
powerful).

The Jag V12 would be pretty cool too, maybe mated to a THM?

Just some random musings .....

Buick GN: "... 11.76 @ 114.5 and then driven to the DQ for ice cream! ..."

Ken Mosher (kmosher@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 18:53:19 1994
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7403
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Re: T5 transmissions, GM & Ford
Hi. I've just requested to be added to the maillist of this group
and am not yet 'hooked up' so please respond directly to me. Thanks.
I'm in the process of building a car and have tentatively decided on
a GM engine with GM pattern bellhousing. I've been told the GM
T5's differ from the Ford units in a number of area's besides the
bolt pattern. ie the camaro T5 has the shifter offset to the right
(so in first gear the shifter is verticle, and 5th/reverse leans way
to the right. What are the ratio's available in the GM units? Is the
GM unit available in a 'World Class' or at least heavy duty as the
post 1992 Ford units? Information on any other differences between the
two styles would be appreciated. Thanks.

----------
Posted by: Bob Bigelow 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jan 25 19:01:34 1994
Subject: Engine Weights
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7404
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This was posted by Dave Williams late last year.  I'm just passing it
along.  -David Haile-
----------------------------------------------------------------------

                 Engine Weight FYI    version 93.11.14
            by Dave Williams, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us

  It isn't really a Frequently Asked Question, so I'll call it an
"FYI", For Your Information.  This was originally a list I'd compiled
long ago on paper, then moved to the computer, then posted on the net
as a response to some questions.  It wound up being popular, but since
I didn't keep track of the origin of the data there was some debate as
to how accurate the list was.  This new improved list has origins
where I could find references; what doesn't have an origin is stuff
from my original list.

  You'll sometimes see more than one weight listed.  Some weights are
for just a long block, some are complete and ready to run, and of
course everything in between.  Some engines varied in weight during
their production runs - for example, some later Chevy V8s use thinwall
blocks and aluminum heads.

  If you have any figures you'd like to contribute, please send them to
me at the email address above.

                       weight
     engine            pounds   ref.       comments

Alfasud flat-4          240     (2)
Alfa Romeo SOHC V6      375     (2)
AMC V8                  540         (one ref showed 600)
AMC 6                   500
Audi 2.0 L4             335     (2)
Audi 5                  364     (2) (non-turbo)
Audi 80 1300            230     (2)
Audi 100 1500           240     (2)
Austin C-series L6      562     (2) ('56 Austin-Healey 100-6)

BL "B" L4 OHV           335     (2)
BL "E" L6               345     (2)  ("complete")
BL "O" L4 OHC           298     (2)
BMW M52 3.3,3.5 Big Six 500     (2)
BMW M60 Small Six       388     (2)
BMW slant-6 turbodiesel 430
BMW 4.5L V12            607     (2)
BMW M105 Diesel 6 2.5L  430     (4)
Buick 350               450
Buick 401               685     (1) ('59 Nail Head)
Buick 430-455 V8        600         (one ref showed 640)
Buick 1963 odd-fire V6  414     (2)
Buick V6                375
Buick 3.0 V6 '85-up     350
Buick/Rover 215 V8      318         (and Olds)
Buick 1961 215 V8       324     (2)

Cadillac V8 390         720     (1) ('59)
Cadillac V8 472-500     625
Cadillac V-16           1,300   (2) (1931)
Cadillac 331 V8         699     (2) (1949)
Chevy Corvair flat 6    300
Chevy 1.8-2.0 L4        302     (4) "J car" pushrod
Chevy Chevette 1.6 SOHC 300     (4) (also Opel)
Chevy Vega L4           285
Chevy II 153 L4         350
Chevy L6 194-250        440
Chevy L6 292            ---
Chevy L6 216/235        630     (2)
Chevy V6-90 229, 4.3    425
Chevy V6-60 2.8, 3.1    350     (2)
Chevy small block V8    575         (generic for '60s-'70s motors)
Chevy small block V8    535     (1) ('59 Corvette 283 w/alum. intake)
Chevy V8 348/409        620     (1)
Chevy big block V8      685         Mark IV
Chevy big block V8      ---         Mark V
Chrysler 2.2 L4         216     (6) (bare motor)
Chrysler 413 wedge      640     (1) ('59 300-E)
Chrysler 331 Hemi       745     (5) 1955
Citroen 2.0 Douvrin 4   263

DeSoto 383              630     (1) ('59)
DeSoto V8               675     (5) (276-341 CID, '50s)
Dodge V8                645     (5) (241-325 CID, '50s)

Dodge 361               625     (1) ('59)

Edsel 361               680     (1) ('59)

Ferrari 312T            397     (2) (V12 3.0L racing engine)
Ferrari "250" V12       382     (2)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    285     (2) (model 206)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    296     (2) (model 246)
Ford Kent 1600          ---
Ford Escort OHC 1600    ---
Ford 1.3-2.0 OHC        ---
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  418     (2) (also 2.0, 2.5)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  450     (2) (turbo)
Ford Germany Taunus V4  205     (2) (and SAAB V4)
Ford England Essex V4   327
Ford Germany 2.0-2.8 V6 305
Ford England Essex V6   379     (2) (3 liter)
Ford 3.8 V6-90          351     (4) (w/start, alt, less clutch)
Ford 170-250 L6         385         (except Australian w/aluminum head)
Ford 240-300 L6         ---
Ford flathead V8        525
Ford flathead V8        569     (1) ('53 239 CID)
Ford Cosworth DFV       353     (2) (racing engine, DOHC, 3.0L)
Ford SOHC modular V8    ---
Ford DOHC modular V8    ---
Ford 255 Windsor        468     (4)
Ford 289/302 V8         460         (late 5.0s are a bit lighter)
Ford BOSS 302           500
Ford 351 Cleveland      550         (includes BOSS and Australian 302-C)
Ford 351 Windsor        510
Ford Y block V8         625         (272-312 CID)
Ford FE big block       650         (332-428 CID)
Ford FE big block       670     (1) ('59 352 CID)
Ford 429/460 V8         640
Ford BOSS 429           680         (iron block, aluminum heads)

Isuzu 1.8 Diesel L4     384     (4)
Isuzu 1.8 gas L4        311     (4)

Jaguar old design 6     ---
Jaguar new design 6     ---
Jaguar V12              680

Lincoln 430             740     (1) ('59) (also Mercury 430)
Lotus 907 (Esprit)      275     (3) (inc. alt. & starter, no clutch)

Marmon V-16             931     (2) (1931)
Mercedes SOHC V8 alum.  452     (2)
Mercedes SOHC V8 iron   540     (2)
Mopar Slant Six         475
Mopar 273-340 "A" V8    525
Mopar 360 "A"           550
Mopar 361-383-400 V8    620     (5)
Mopar 413-426W-440 V8   670     (5)
Mopar Street Hemi       765         (690 bare)

Nissan 240-300Z 6       ---
Nissan CA20 FWD         269     (4) belt cam
Nissan Z20 NAPS-Z 2.0   346     (4) RWD chain cam

Olds 215 V8             318         (same as Buick/Rover)
Olds 260 V8             ---
Olds 304 "Rocket" V8    671     (2) first Olds V8, 1949
Olds straight-8         614     (2) '40s motor
Olds 330 J2             700         (first generation V8)
Olds 330-400            560     (5) low deck, w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 350-403 V8         ---         '86-up lightweight design
Olds 394                725     (1) ('59)
Olds 371, 394           760     (5)
Olds 400-455            620     (5) high deck w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 262 V6 Diesel      590     (4) (from GM SAE paper)
Olds 260 Diesel         ---
Olds 350 Diesel         ---
Opel 2.8-3.0 CIH L6     395     (2)

Peugeot 204 Diesel      272
Peugeot Douvrin 2.0 4   263     (2)
Peugeot 104 1400        260     (2) includes transaxle
Pierce-Arrow V-12       1,130   (2) (1932)
Plymouth 361            640     (1) ('59)
Pontiac L4              350         Iron Duke, Tech IV
Pontiac Tempest slant 4 470
Pontiac SOHC 6          450
Pontiac 389 V8          650
Pontiac 389 V8          590     (1) ('59)
Porsche 4.7 SOHC V8     574
Porsche 901 6           401     (2) (1963)

Rambler 327 V8          600
Rambler 327 V8          670     (1) ('59)
Rover 3500 V8           318         (same as Buick)
Rover 3.0 SOHC L6       432     (2)
Renault 2.0 4 Douvrin   263     (2)
Renault 2.8 V6          375     (2) (also DeLorean, Peugeot, Volvo)
Renault EF-1            395     (2) (racing version of P-R-V V6)

SAAB V4-60              206     (2) (also Taunus, Ford)
SAAB slant-4            290     (2) (also Triumph)
Studebaker 289          650

Triumph slant-4         290     (2) (also SAAB 99)
Triumph 2000 L6         403     (2) (Spitfire, 2.5 TRs)
Triumph Stag V8         446

VW flat-4 air cooled    200
VW flat-4 water cooled  ---
VW inline 4             ---         Rabbit/Golf


(1)  Handbook of Engine Swapping, John Thawley, 1960
(2)  Complete Handbook of Automotive Power Trains, Jan Norbye, 1981
(3)  Passenger Car Engines, papers, IMechE, 1975
(4)  New Light Duty Engines, SAE 510, 1982
(5)  Hot Rod Engines, Hot Rod, 1967
(6)  Aspects of Internal Combustion Engine Design, SAE 582, 1982
                                                                                                              

----------
Posted by: dhaile@csn.org (David Haile)


-- 
  /-------------------------------------------------------------------------/
 /      David W. Haile - Kuo & Associates, Inc., Ft. Collins, Colorado     /
/-------------------------------------------------------------------------/

----------
Posted by: emory!teal.csn.org!dhaile (David Haile)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 03:57:02 1994
Subject: Holley jets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7405
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm planning on re-jetting my Holley this weekend.  Any tips?  I'm looking for
a substantial improvement in gas-mileage.  I was wondering if anyone knows 
what size the stock jets are?  Its a Holley 600 w/ vacuum advance and electric
choke.  I want to know how much smaller I should go and how far I can go.  
How would I know when to stop?  The motor is a 351W running about 9:1 CR, an
Edlebrock Performer, and headers.  Please help.  Thanks.
Tom McClendon
gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 04:21:35 1994
Subject: Re: 100hp Nitrous
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7406
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article @dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>Has anybody any experience on the NOS cheater or simular systems
>on an mildly modified engine? Or to be more specific:
>
>Chevy 350 w/ cast pistons, 4bbl holley. Headders. 9.5 C/R. 2-bolt
>mains. Auto trans.
>
>I heard that when using NOS, the timing has to be retarded. Is this
>true for the small 100hp systems also?

Yes...
>
>Will a 100hp system give any problems like detonation, excessive
>wear etc? Would I need a rpm-actuator or could the NOS just be
>switched on at idle before launch? Would I have to adjust the
>timing before using the NOS? 

If you want to launch with NOS you need to be above the 2500 rpm mark, NOS 
does not reccommend using it under that...

>
>I was thinking of using a small fuel-cell for the gas that goes to
>the NOS and thereby keeping my tank and fuel system stock. In this fuel 
>cell I could use high octane gas with octane booster. Would this eliminate 
>detonation so I can keep my timing? I don't want to have to adjust timing 
>before I can use the system. I also can't afford those timing retard 
>computers.

Good idea ... I have done the same...

You still need to retard your timing .... I have a modified 350 and running 150hp
NOS and only had to retard the timing 2 degrees... not bad at all...



---
Rick

rick@sparky.uark.edu
University of Arkansas - PHPL

How bout' them HOGS!!!


----------
Posted by: emory!sparky.uark.edu!rick (Rick Lindstedt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 04:25:45 1994
Subject: The sludge factor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7407
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Gentleman the reason for the sludge in your engine is not because of the oil
as much fact the engine was pre-smog or it ran on leaded fuel. Most of the engines today the use any type of oil are very clean inside. 100k plus mileage 
really doesn't matter.

I think that the leaded fuel is the problem not hte oil. 70's model cars
were the last of it, so we probably won't see this happen too much longer.

Take a look at a new car (after '85) to how the engine looks probably
very different in comparision.

Just a thought.

See ya 
MPQ

----------
Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 04:58:10 1994
Subject: Re: TPI,EFI,TURBOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7408
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> 	So you're saying to do it right you need basically one feedback
> loop per cylinder?  That entails one O2 sensor per cylinder and MAF sensors
> in each runner, right?

Either that or fix the friggin intake so that mixture distribution
is even across the board.  And the stock TPI manifold can be majorly
improved by relocating the throttlebody to the top-center of the
plenum.  I'm not sure of the feasability of one MAF per cylinder,
but I do know someone up in dearborn who is putting together a 68333
based system for his SHO that uses a seperate MAP cylinder for each
cylinder.  Supposedly motorla makes some pressure transducers that are
fast enough to make it work.

 
> 	I've been toying with the idea of taking a set of Keihin flat slides
> from a motorcycle and running one carb per cylinder on a V8, and fabbing a
> ram-air manifold to feed them.  Flat slides are expensive, but breaking up
> a pair of carb racks from crashed ZX-11s, for example (40mm bores apiece,
> CV-style carbs), wouldn't be terribly prohibitive.  I have doubts whether
> such carbs would be able to provide adequate fuel to a big block on full boil
> but you really wouldn't know until you tried.
 
Hmmm...  You may be able to jet 'em big enough, but I don't know.
Assuming the same volumetric efficiency, a 7.4L engine at 6000rpm
is sucking almost twice as much air as a pair of 1.1L engines at
11000rpm (I don't know high they run the ZX-11, figured 11k was a
conservative guess).  It wouldn't be as exotic, but have you thought
about running four weber 2bbl sidedraft automotive carbs?

> [The biggest problem you'll have, as people who put motorcycle engines
> in race cars have learned, is that the carbs are not designed to handle
> lateral G loading.  There is very little lateral G loading on a motorcycle
> because it leans to compensate.  You'd probably have to do some sort of
> baffling to keep gas on the jets.  JGD]

We never experienced problems with that when we ran the stock carbs
on our ZX-6, but we were feeding them 5 psi.  The area which lateral
loading did cause us a problem was the oiling system.

> 	Can you imagine the strange look you'd get when you mentioned that
> "synchronizing the carbs" was part of your tuneup ritual for your hotrod?  :-

I washed the airfilters and synch'd the carbs once a month on my Z.


--
     lusky@jackatak.raider.net (Jon Lusky)
------------jackatak.raider.net   (615) 377-5980 ------------

----------
Posted by: Jon Lusky 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 05:03:19 1994
Subject: Re: Holley jets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7409
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <12238lm@dixie.com> you wrote:
: I'm planning on re-jetting my Holley this weekend.  Any tips?  I'm looking for
: a substantial improvement in gas-mileage.  I was wondering if anyone knows 
: what size the stock jets are?  Its a Holley 600 w/ vacuum advance and electric
: choke.  I want to know how much smaller I should go and how far I can go.  
: How would I know when to stop?  The motor is a 351W running about 9:1 CR, an
: Edlebrock Performer, and headers.  Please help.  Thanks.
: Tom McClendon
: gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu
: 
: ----------

: Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)


Nobody can tell you what to run, you need to get the carb running on the car, 
then tune the carb to suit the car.  Every carb will have different settings
depending on the various engine and drivetrain variables.  I would suggest 
getting a good book on Holleys from the local bookstore.  
There are good ones by HP books, SA design, And even Holley makes one.
A discussion of carburetor parameters is really too much for the internet.

Good luck!  (I believe the SA design book has original specs for the 600 
R-1850)

Mark

----------
Posted by: Mark Shirley 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 05:13:15 1994
Subject: Re: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7410
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

would you look in your offy book and see if they still offer an offy 360 
intake manifold for a big block chevy with rect. port heads.  and see what
they say about it.  i had one on my '68 camaro and it was a screamer.

thanks

----------
Posted by: emory!bangate.compaq.com!Rel=Eng%PCPD=Hou!Mike=Goodman
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 05:20:08 1994
Subject: In need of the f-body list address.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7411
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  Hello.
  I just bought my first Camaro, and i need to ask questions of the 
  F-body group.  So i need to subscribe, but to do that i must first
  have the address.
  My records show this to be: f-body-request@boogie.ebay.sun.com
  This does not work (it bounces).

  Please, Please someone out there direct email me the latest and correct
  address.
  Thank-You in advance.
-- 
  -kyle
  
  73,76 914 2.0 
  85 IROC Z-28
   UUuh UUuuhh?  -Tim Allen 

----------
Posted by: Kyle Ehler 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 05:25:07 1994
Subject: SAE papers on-line?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7412
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Anyone know where (or if) I can find SAE papers on line?
I've looked some with Gopher, Archie and Mosaic and haven't
found diddly-squat.  I'm mostly interested in papers on two-stokes.

Pointers to automotive engineering papers published by people
other than the SAE would be welcome too.

Thankx.  If there's any response I'll post a summary.


-- 
            Eric Murray                 ericm@microunity.com
In this game, the winner is also the loser, and the judge's decisions are final

[Heh!  At $20 a pop or more, ain't a chance in hell the SAE will ever make
them available online.  Hell, they even charge more than a thousand
dollars for a CD-ROM containing the index and abstracts.  They don't
even offer discounts to student chapters.  It's a mistake to think
of SAE as a professional organization.  It is a publishing and lobbying
empire.  That is it about the only source for authorative automotive
research papers here in the US is a shame.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!MicroUnity.com!ericm (Eric Murray)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 18:45:41 1994
Subject: RE: engine weights
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7413
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hey, *I* got an idea..... put in front springs from and OshKosh and
use a Hispano-Suiza V-12 AERO ENGINE!!! Ghram-Bell(yup, the telephone 
guy) use two in a lake boat he built in canada!! It's in the museum.
I'll see if I can find weights on the Jag engines, Packard V-12, caddy V-12,
and 500 cid V-8.
			kilroy

----------
Posted by: emory!aspen.uml.edu!milliganc
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 19:00:21 1994
Subject: The sludge factor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7414
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I think that the leaded fuel is the problem not hte oil. 70's model
-> cars were the last of it, so we probably won't see this happen too
-> much longer.

 Actually, fuel had almost nothing to do with sludge buildups.  The
early '70s saw lots of advances in motor oils - the end of the old MS
oils, introduction of the SD and SE grades, API requirements for oil
interchangeability, improved additive packages, and so forth.  Old
second-generation smog control systems also caused cars to run hotter,
which tended to boil water and fuel contamination out of the oil.
    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 19:11:44 1994
Subject: Re: Offy oddities
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7415
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> would you look in your offy book and see if they still offer an offy
-> 360 intake manifold for a big block chevy with rect. port heads.  and
-> see what they say about it.  i had one on my '68 camaro and it was a
-> screamer.

 They still offer it.  How about a Ramchargers-style cross-ram manifold?
Or a tunnel ram set up for three Weber downdrafts?
                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 19:24:34 1994
Subject: SAE papers on-line?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7416
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [Heh!  At $20 a pop or more, ain't a chance in hell the SAE will ever
-> make them available online.  Hell, they even charge more than a

 TWENTY DOLLARS?  Christ, just a few years ago they went from $4 to $6!


-> of SAE as a professional organization.  It is a publishing and
-> lobbying empire.  That is it about the only source for authorative

 The SAE's dues are also way out of line for what you get, IMHO.  That's
why I'm no longer a member.  Hmm... one could say much the same for the
NRA and SCCA.


-> Pointers to automotive engineering papers published by people
-> other than the SAE would be welcome too.

 There's the IMechE in England, but I dunno if they sell papers to
nonmembers.  The SAE will take anyone who can sign a check.  The IMechE
wants a college degree, work experience, and current automotive
employment, and they'll put you on the list for consideration.  At least
that's how their application reads.  They're also even more expensive
than the SAE.
                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 19:33:38 1994
Subject: *Televised Events #94-4*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7417
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "tba'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Best of AMA Supercross                01/27    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
Motorweek (Galant & Hummer)           01/27    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/28    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
SODA, OFF-ROAD CHAMPS., CRANDON (T)   01/28    4:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/28    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN2
MOTORCYCLE RACING (?)                 01/28    6:30-7:30PM      ESPN2
SpeedWeek                             01/28    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/29    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Secrets Of Speed (Powerboats)         01/29    5:30-6:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             01/29    6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/29    7:00-7:30AM      MTV
Shadetree Mechanic (truck interiors)  01/29    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/29    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/29    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/29    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (roadsters)   01/29    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Performance Showcase II               01/29    4:00-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             01/30    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/30    9;00-9;30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/30    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Joe Nemechek)                01/30    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/30    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/30    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/30   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)01/30    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Joe Nemechek)                01/30    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (truck interiors)  01/30    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CARS, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)  01/30    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/30    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/30    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/30    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/30    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/30   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/31    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (roadsters)   01/31    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/31    1:00-3:00AM      ENC
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/31    1:00-3:00PM      ENC
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SAN JOSE (T)     01/31    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
Best of AMA Supercross                01/31    6:30-7:00PM      ESPN2
This Week On Pit Road                 01/31    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/01    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Monster Trucks                        02/01    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SACRAMENTO (T)   02/01    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/02    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             02/02    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        02/02    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, SPRINGFIELD (T)  02/02    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
OFF-ROAD RACING, MALAYSIA (T)         02/03    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/03    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Monster Trucks                        02/03    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, MINERAL WELLS (T)02/03    4:00-5:00PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (LA auto show)              02/03    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 02/04    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
MIDGET NATIONALS, OKLAHOMA CITY (T)   02/04    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
HYDROPLANE RACING, LAKELAND (T)       02/05    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

DAYTONA 24 HOURS, START (?)           02/05    tba              tba
ASA, 1993 Highlights                  02/05    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
AMA, CAMEL CLASSIC II, LOUDON (T)     02/06    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/06    7:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans(Live @ Pomona02/06    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (L)     02/06    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
DAYTONA 24 HOURS, FINISH (?)          02/06    tba              tba
Thunder In The Distance (NHRA Preview)02/07    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans(taped@Pomona)02/07    1:00-1:30AM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     02/07    1:30-2:00AM      TNN
NHRA, (Fastest runs from 1993 season) 02/12    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    tba              tba
NHRA, SPORTSNATIONALS, ATLANTA (T)    02/13    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)02/13    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA TWIN 125'S (?)   02/17    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, DAYTONA (?)                 02/19    tba              tba
NASCAR, 1993 Season Review            02/19    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
IROC #1, DAYTONA (?)                  02/28 (live coverage unlikely)
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    12:15PM          CBS
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS,BANDIMERE(T)02/20    2:00-3:25PM      TNN
SPRINT CARS, KNOXVILLE NATIONALS (T)  02/20    6:05-7:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (L)              02/26    1:00-3:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/27    12:00-5:00PM     TNN
BUSCH GN, RICHMOND (?)                03/05    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    1:15PM           TBS
NHRA, NATIONALS, BAYTOWN (?)          03/06    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (?)                 03/12    tba              tba
WINSTON CUP, ATLANTA (L)              03/13    1:00PM           ABC
IMSA, SEBRING 12 HOURS (?)            03/19    tba              tba
INDYCAR, SURFER'S PARADISE, OZ (?)    03/20    tba              ABC
BUSCH GN, MARTINSVILLE (?)            03/20    tba              tba
NHRA, GATORNATIONALS, GAINESVILLE (?) 03/20    tba              tba
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (?)              03/26    tba              tba
IROC #2, DARLINGTON (?)               03/26 (live coverage unlikely)
FORMULA 1, BRAZIL (L)                 03/27    tba          ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           03/27    1:00PM           ESPN

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 19:38:40 1994
Subject: Re: Holley jets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7418
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Tom, try #66 jets. Should be real close.

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1964 Galaxie XL 428 SCJ Auto
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 390 Tri-Power Auto
1967 1/2 ton Truck 406 Auto
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: MTN-KAT 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jan 27 19:50:47 1994
Subject: Re: SAE papers on-line?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7419
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>[Heh!  At $20 a pop or more, ain't a chance in hell the SAE will ever make
>them available online.  Hell, they even charge more than a thousand
>dollars for a CD-ROM containing the index and abstracts.  They don't
>even offer discounts to student chapters.  It's a mistake to think
>of SAE as a professional organization.  It is a publishing and lobbying
>empire.  That is it about the only source for authorative automotive
>research papers here in the US is a shame.  JGD]

	I trust, then, that they would prosecute an individual who solicited
requests for copies of such papers and then made them available in a repository
via anonymous ftp, mail server, gopher, or the like?  Are those papers
copyrighted?  If so, can they be duplicated under the "educational use"
exception?

-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

[Anything anyone writes is copyrighted and yes, they do mark each paper
with the rights legend.  They give NO educational discount.  Since
I've been involved in helping several Formula SAE teams, I've been
involved in trying to get educational and/or section discounts.  No
Dice.  It would be safe to assume that they'd frown on placing papers
on an FTP server.  These would have to be bitmap scans anyway, since
most papers are full of charts, tables and such.  Plus the number
of papers is astounding.  I think they offer the full text of newer papers
on CD-ROM but it costs several thousand dollars and occupies several
disks.  Probably the best deal is to buy the 3 volume SAE Handbook.
Member price is about $100.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 01:36:26 1994
Subject: metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7420
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'd like to get either a cheap metal-cutting bandswaw, or a 12" abrasive
wheel chop saw.  Has anyone had any experience with either?  They can be had
for about $200.00 from discount mail order places.

I've been making custom parts for my old truck out of mild steel tubing,
plate and bar-stock, and up until now I've gotten by with using my
air-powered 3" abrasive cutoff tool, a torch, or a hacksaw.  Cutting up the
steel takes up most of the time.  I also have been making stuff like a cart
for my acetylene torch tanks and one for my MIG welder.

Are cheap metal-cutting bandsaws worth the $200.00?  Do the blades get chewed
up quickly?  Can they cut through say 5/16" steel plate without just seizing
up or lopping the teeth off the blade.  I know the Do-All bandsaw at work
actually has a tough time sawing through 1/4" stainless steel plate -- I
wonder if a $200.00 band saw could even scratch it.

The 12" (or 14" or whatever they are) abrasive chop saws make a sort of ugly
burned up looking cut, but at least they cut square and fast.  For chopping
up lengths of steel rectangular tubing or something they seem like they'd be
pretty good.

Someday I'd like to work on more ambitious projects like making my own
tube-frame or rollcages for a hotrod.  

Has anyone used one of those $250.00 tubing notching gizmos that use a
bi-metal hole saw to cut fishmouths in the ends of steel tubing?  They seem
like they'd be great to have if you're making roll cages or something.

Tom 

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 15:47:24 1994
Subject: Re:  metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7421
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I use a metal cutting disk in my junky Black and Decker "Skil" type saw
to cut steel and stainless.  It works rather well and I can attach
a straight edge to the material to be cut.  I use the cheapest abrasive
disks I can find ($1 each) and they seem to last as long or longer
than the $5 ones.  I do not have a clue how the brushes in the motor
have survived for 5 years of eating abrasive particles and iron filings
but it still runs fine.
Eddie Renoux  elr@mcdata.com

----------
Posted by: emory!newsit2.mcdata.com!elr0262 (Eddie Renoux)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 15:52:38 1994
Subject: Re:  metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7422
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 The Eastwood catalog has a tubing joint cutter, and from the picture 
it looks pretty damn simple to make; it's a hole saw on a long shaft,
a bearing block, a sort of protractor base and a clamp for the tube to
be cut. A drill press and C-clamps with a couple of /\ special hold-
down blocks would do the job for 90-degree butts. For other angles
you need the protractor and enough projection off the base to put the
saw and tubing on centers. If your drill press has a tilt table then
you're there, dude.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 16:02:09 1994
Subject: Gone
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7423
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I'm away until Monday.  No list traffic until then.

73 John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 16:13:19 1994
Subject: plastic into gasoline
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7424
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I'm still digging through all those old Popular Science magazines.
There's some seriously weird stuff in there.  Here's an article from
"Science Newsfront," May 1979:

PLASTIC INTO GASOLINE
  South African chemists, according to a Reuters dispatch, are claiming
  that they are the first to convert plastic wastes into gasoline and
  diesel fuel.  Professor Johann Decker of the Institute of Petro-
  chemical Research at Potchefstroon University neat Johannesburg
  reports that researchers have obtained "a 91.5-percent conversion
  of polypropylenes into petrol and diesel fuel."  The plastic came
  from bags and wrappings scavenged from a city garbage dump.
                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 16:23:37 1994
Subject: Re:  metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7425
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Metal cutting saws?  Well, I have the ENCO version of the cut off band
saw.  ( Don't laugh; I won it. )  It is good and bad.

Good is the abiltity to put tubing or flat stock in the vice, turn it
on, and come back later to a decent cut.  Bad is the tuning.  One has
to buy THE BEST blades, waste some time cutting scraps and twiddling 
with the guides, etc. to get square cuts.

I have cut all sorts of stuff -- up to 1.5" bar stock -- without much
problem.  The saw also "flips up" for sheet cutting.  I cut some 
fairly complex trailer hitch mounts out of 1/4" mild steel without
much problem.  I mounted a light right on mine.  This is a very good
idea.

But when I get to the really big stuff, I get out my trusty Skil 77
and slap on a metal cutting blade.  I have used this for steel roofing
( like cutting 1/4 plywood -- zzzziiiip! ), 2" square tubing, 3*1/4"
angle, and ( best ) 2*7" heavy channel.  What a spark show!  With the
right setup, it cuts as fast as you are brave.  The stock rip fence
still works when cutting metal.

I'd be really careful trying to to do this with one of those "plastic"
bodied saws.  They melt.  Even the ole 77 got real hot and has some 
iron bits still stuck in it, and it has a metal body.

For repetative precision cuts, I have been known to put a metal
cutting blade in my Skil power miter box.  For aluminum, I just use
a carbide blade, ear plugs, ear muffs, glasses and a sheild.

My brother-in-law has one of those 14" chop saws.  He seems to like
it.  I have not used it much.

I have been interested in one of those tubing cutters, but thought I'd
try it on my drill press first.  I have not yet had a good reason to.
Milwalkeee makes some expensive, nice hole saws for cutting metal.  I
am nearly sure they would work in a regular ( large ) drill press.
You may never have seen these -- check the Tools On Sale catalog.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 16:34:26 1994
Subject: Chop saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7426
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I knew a gunsmith who had a chop saw that I was impressed with.
For most bulk stock cutting I would prefer the chop saw; it's
faster and gives a straighter cut.  As you mentioned, it does
discolor the metal due to the intense heat.

Band saws have a variety of problems - they leave a rough edge.
the blade can wander, they don't do well on thin metal, etc.

I don't remember which brand of chop saw he had; it was Japanese
and worked very well.  It wasn't one of the really popular
names such as Ryobi or Makita.

Bob Hale          hale@brooktree.com

P.S. I tried to mail this to the original poster but without
his address I had to guess and the guess didn't work - please,
guys, include your address in your postings.  Thanks!

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 16:45:05 1994
Subject: bulletproof parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7427
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 On page 34 of Steve Smith's "Best of Tech Tips," there are two photos -
one of a guy holding out what looks to be like a Colt SAA, and a
foot-square-sized chunk of something that has evidently been shot.

 caption:
  "You've heard people claim their parts are bullet proof?  JP proved it
with their new sandwich-construction firewall, a super stiff unit.  It
is 3/4" plywood with sheet metal laminated on each side.  Jeff tested it
with a 45-caliber pistol and the slug didn't penetrate."

 I dunno.  The .45 Long Colt ain't the world's hottest cartridge by any
means, but that must be some really tough sheet metal.  Nice photo,
though.


 I also bought the new issue of Kit Car because they advertised coverage
of a "Run and Gun" event.  Alas, looked like a plain old car show to me,
no sign of guns anywhere.  It would have been rather a neat idea to
combine the two.
                                                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 17:01:26 1994
Subject: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7428
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


     My friend asked me to ask about the above unit.   While
scrounging thru the junkyard, he found a 3x2 (what looked to be
small-base 2G Rochester carb mounting) manifold for a small block
Chevy buried under the parts pile.   

     He said it looked to have the hole for filling the oil thru the
manifold, and was painted factory Chevy orange.     Made out of good
ol' heavy cast iron.   GM stamps, didn't get the casting #'s.   

Questions:

     1.   Anyone know what this came off (car, motor, ect)?
     2.   Would anyone want it?
     3.   How much is it worth (if any, no carbs/linkages/ect)?

Also, I have a cast-iron intake for a BB Chevy.   Non-EGR, Q-jet
mounting.    Stamped "Q-JET" on 1 intake runner.  Do I keep this, or 
let it become part of a new Honda motor?  (I run Olds motors, not
Chevys....)

Also, I'm looking for a ECM and throttle body from a TPI Chevy motor.
Anyone got a good (perferably cheap, it's for a FI project) source?

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: Bob Valentine 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 17:07:18 1994
Subject: 100hp Nitrous
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7429
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Markus:

I don't think you can use Nitrous with cast pistons.  As far as I know, if
you don't use forged pistons, you're looking at problems.  I haven't had 
experince with NOS, but that's what everybody told me as I was rebuilding my 
'68 Camaro.  I settled for cast pistons...the forged were too expensive and I 
didn't forsee using NOS (I don't race).
					-Luis

----------
Posted by: emory!solix.fiu.edu!im7gb010 (Student - 31)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 17:11:44 1994
Subject: Ally finishes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7430
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Does anybody have any suggestions for finishes on alloy manifolds,
rocker covers, etc ?

Plain old polishing or chrome plating is getting a bit boring so I was
looking for something a little unique.
The car is black with a really light touch of red pearl and the interior
is red and black. 
In keeping with this colour scheme I was going to get them anodised with
a dark red which I think would look damn fine.
The anodisers however, weren't all that keen on the idea as these types
of items can come out looking awful due to the largely unknown metal
composition. 

Of course the final finish has to resist the heat and gas and water.

Any ideas ?

Steve.

----------
Posted by: emory!kcbbs.gen.nz!Steve_Baldwin (Steve Baldwin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 17:16:34 1994
Subject: Re: Holley jets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7431
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> I'm planning on re-jetting my Holley this weekend.  Any tips?  I'm looking fo
> a substantial improvement in gas-mileage.  I was wondering if anyone knows 
> what size the stock jets are?  Its a Holley 600 w/ vacuum advance and electri
> choke.  I want to know how much smaller I should go and how far I can go.  
> How would I know when to stop?  The motor is a 351W running about 9:1 CR, an
> Edlebrock Performer, and headers.  Please help.  Thanks.

What list # is it?  I'm going to assume 9834, which I think is the
same jetwise off the shelf as the 1850 I have sitting in my lap.
Just popped off the float bowl, it's got #66 jets in it.  It also
has a black spring for the secondary diaphragm.  To tune part throttle
and idle, you really ought to slap in a pair of O2 sensors (one in
each collector).  I'd say shoot for 300mV to 450mV while cruising.
Maybe not yield the absolute best economy, but its safe and
repeatable.  I don't know how far down you'll have to go to achieve
this, but I think the 1850 is fairly rich out of the box.  Once
you get the primary sufficiently leaned out, you may need to open
up the secondary metering plate a bit (or maybe not).  Also, if you
haven't changed the spring in the secondary yet, you ought to.  With
the black spring, your secondaries open really late and never fully
open.


--
     lusky@jackatak.raider.net (Jon Lusky)
------------jackatak.raider.net   (615) 377-5980 ------------

----------
Posted by: Jon Lusky 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 18:30:23 1994
Subject: racing gas
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7432
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Steve Smith's Tech Tips book (1977) quotes Harold Day of Daeco Racing
Gasoline:

Q: You say pump gasoline is a bad product.  Why?  What's in it?

A: "Pump gasoline is not only the product produced by a refinery, but
   it is also the junk disposal method for refineries.  Pump gasoline
   is loaded with junk, such as butanes and heavy hydro products.  And,
   any gasoline with junk in it burns early, causing detonation.  These
   junk additives also raise vapor pressures too high, which can cause
   run-on and vapor lock."


Q: How does these junk products get into the pump gasoline?

A: "These things are hidden in the gasoline by the refiner to get rid of
   excess quantities on hand.  They are mixed into the gasoline in a
   solution of roughly two percent by volume.  These are products such
   as napthalene, asphalt and solvents.  I remember once when a large
   oil company flooded the market place with advertising proclaiming
   their gasoline had the cleanest exhaust vapors of all gasolines.
   That was true alright, but the reason behind it was they had had a
   major aviation gasoline contract cancelled, and they had a very large
   stock of aviation gasoline to be disposed of.  This oil company was,
   then, selling nearly 100 percent pure hydrocarbons."


Q: Any other reasons why pump gasoline does not make a good racing fuel?

A: "Yes, you can be sure that you'll never get the same tank of gasoline
   twice at the same service station, let alone when you travel a little
   distance or a great distance to race.  You might think that your
   particular racing engine is difficult, if not impossible, to tune,
   but what it really is, is that you have to keep fine-tuning to
   adjust to the differences in gasoline.  The refineries are always
   changing blends of gasoline for both weather than elevation.  There
   are definitely summer and winter blends, as well as spring and fall
   blends, but there are also regional blends.  I know that when I
   worked for Arco in Wilmington, we blended a different gasoline for
   the Los Angeles basin than Phoenix, and still a different blend for
   Bakersfield."


Q: What is in your gasoline which differentiates it from pump gasoline?

A: "What is desired for a motor fuel is the most volatile components
   from the crude oil.  These are pure hydrocarbons, such as
   isopentine (sp), isooctane, benzene, toluene and ixohexane.  I have
   a formula I devised for adding these hydrocarbon stocks to a base of
   aviation stock."


 I realize this was 1977, and Day was promoting his own product, but my
snake oil detector just went "tilt."  Gas *is* regional and seasonal,
but de gummit done start meddling with pump gas around 1972, ordering
the gas companies to "clean up emissions" by reformulating fuel, 20
years before reformulated gas became an issue again in 1992.

 Volatility is not the major requirement for a racing fuel, nor is there
any such thing as pure gasoline.  When crude oil is cracked and
recombined, you wind up with a bunch of different stuff falling into the
loose category of "gasoline," controlled by whether the crude is
asphaltic or paraffinic, the exact process used for refining, where the
individual manufacturer defines the upper and lower limits of
"gasoline," etc.  Then it's mixed with shit to minimize vapor lock, to
enhance starting in cold weather, detergents, alcohol, MTBE, camel piss,
octane adjusters, toluene, tetraethyl lead, colored dyes to mark the
grade, and whatever else, and comes out of the pump marked "Motor
Fuel."  Determining "junk" among that witches' brew would be
interesting.
                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 18:40:05 1994
Subject: Gone 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7433
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Earlier today I sed:

>
>I'm away until Monday.  No list traffic until then.
>
>73 John

Belay that comment.  I'm sitting here spitting nails.  I was off
to a weekend workshop on blowing glass at the Tennessee Tech 
Crafts Center, a class reserved since November.  After I had already
gotten well into Tennessee, I picked up the cellphone to call and make
sure my directions were correct.  Imagine my amazement to learn that
they'd canceled the workshop, that the decision was made last 
Monday and no one had bothered to call!  I'm PISSED!

Anyway, the lists are back up and running. I'm headed for cover until
this damned Superbowl is over..

>From the bunker,
John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 18:45:07 1994
Subject: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7434
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have accumulated empirical evidence that the rear brake fluid
reservoir of Delco master cylinders loses fluid to _something_
but I can't figure out where it goes.

I have examined the wheel cylinders, the proportioning valve,
and the master cylinder itself for signs of exterior leakage.
I can't find any, yet the fluid level in the rear reservoir
slowly diminishes.  I thought that perhaps the fluid from the
rear might be leaking into the front reservoir but the level
there doesn't seem to rise any.  Anybody have any ideas?

Bob Hale         hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jan 28 18:51:36 1994
Subject: Re:  metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7435
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I bought a Delta 9 inch bandsaw at a machinery supply house
	with the intent to cut metal. I found a metal cutting blade
	thats 18 tpi and its 3/8 inch wide. I run into trouble
	with the blade turning at an angle when I cut. I'm not
	sure if its just the blade guides not being set right
	or if its a basic flaw in the tool, yet...

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jan 29 09:39:44 1994
Subject: Chop saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7436
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I knew a gunsmith who had a chop saw that I was impressed with. For
-> most bulk stock cutting I would prefer the chop saw; it's
-> faster and gives a straighter cut.  As you mentioned, it does
-> discolor the metal due to the intense heat.

 The best thing about the chop saw (other than small and cheap) is that
they will cut hardened materials like drill bits, milling machine
cutters, lathe bits, springs, and whatnot.
                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:03:10 1994
Subject: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7437
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> He said it looked to have the hole for filling the oil thru the
-> manifold, and was painted factory Chevy orange.     Made out of good
-> ol' heavy cast iron.   GM stamps, didn't get the casting #'s.

 Hmmm.  Chevrolet USA never made a six-barrel small block.  They let
Smokey Yunick play with a couple of aluminum prototypes that got
auctioned off a few years ago, but the only six barrels were 427s.

 GMH (Holden) built six barrel 327s right up into the '70s, in the
Monaro, I think.  But I'm pretty sure those were aluminum manifolds.

 I don't know of any US aftermarket manufacturers who cast intakes out
of iron, so maybe it's a factory prototype that got away.

 Is there any chance I could get a photograph of this thing, just for my
"strange but true" album?
                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:14:30 1994
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7438
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I had a Chevy truck with a thirsty vacuum booster.  My master cylinder
leaked fluid into the booster, and eventually ruined it.  There is supped
to be a hole for the fluid to come out of if the master cylinder goes bad 
and leaks, right at the bottom of the flange where it bolts to the booster,
so you might check to see if fluid is dripping from there also.  Separate
the two to see if any fluid is trapped between them, too.  Better safe than
sorry, Brake Boosters are exensive new.


----------
Posted by: Christopher Hinds 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:22:30 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7439
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I recently dis-assembled my 305 HO engine to replace some leaking seals.
I found a slight amount of grey sludge which was slick-50 that I
(unfortunately) tried in 1990.  Maybe what you have is a bunch of slick
50 in your motor.

Another hypothesis I have is perhaps it is a mixture of sludge and
water, which would form in an engine that didn't get much of a chance to
warm up.  (like grandma's car that saw three trips to the corner grocery
store a week).  -- my two cents worth, no warranty expressed or implied.
--Dan

----------
Posted by: emory!yew.egr.msu.edu!burkdani (Daniel Robert Burk)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:29:27 1994
Subject: NOS
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7440
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Keywords: 

Gee, all of these articles seem to make NOS sound so technical.
 
I don't know about NOS, other than I've seen bunches of systems hooked to stock
mustang 5.0's and camaro TPI's and no one seems to be having trouble with THEIR
stock cast pistons.  This and they are now running low 13's with these cars.

I've been thinking of going with a 125 horse kit from NOS myself, but I've got 
to come up with the money first.  Does anyone out there have any real concrete
data on what a base level nitrous kit does to a stock engine?  I mean, really,
is 125 horses going to make that much difference in engine life?
 
especially if it's hit only once or twice a week?
 
   come on, no more scary talk, unless you've got some real stories.

----------
Posted by: emory!yew.egr.msu.edu!burkdani (Daniel Robert Burk)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:33:39 1994
Subject: Re:  metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7441
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> sure if its just the blade guides not being set right
-> or if its a basic flaw in the tool, yet...

 The positioning of the little rollers is absolutely critical got
getting the blade to run straight.  Some cheaper saws don't bother
trying to line them up - they just kinda casually mention it in the
owner's manual.
                                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:38:20 1994
Subject: Re: Holley jets
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7442
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

What is your Holley List number?  (I've got a manual that describes each type
of Holley).

And also, what is your use of the car (street, street/strip, strip) ie: How
much performance are you expecting (obviously there may be a compromise to
some extent).

(Reply to me directly)
Later- 

Waleed khan
khan@ee.ualberta.ca

----------
Posted by: Waleed Khan 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jan 30 11:43:12 1994
Subject: air conditioning problems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7443
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

My compressor runs all the time.  I recharged it myself,  it only lasted two 
weeks.  Is there a common problem ?  Is there a simple test ?  Engine 
is a Ford 351 Cleveland.  Anyone out there have some answers ?

Much appreicated,
Greg.

----------
Posted by: emory!nbnet.nb.ca!kinnong (Greg MacKinnon)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 00:43:04 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7444
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> > 
> GMH (Holden) built six barrel 327s right up into the '70s, in the
> Monaro, I think.  But I'm pretty sure those were aluminum manifolds.
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
>  
   GMH Holden in Australia only ever released Q-jeted sbmall blocks to
Aust,
                       HP in street trim                          
       1968-1969 HK Monaro 327(280hp),307 
       1969-1970 HT Monaro 350(290hp auto,300hp manual),307
       1970-1971 HG Monaro 350(290hp),307

       1972-1974 HQ-HJ Optional 350(260hp) in Monaro or Statesman.

All of these motors were brought to Aust in a crate, with only the fan
and aircleaner to be bolted on. In 1968 GMH won Bathurst with the 327
taking the line over fords 302Clev GTHO Falcons, next year in 1969 Ford
pulled out the arwsome 351 Clevland Phase III`s but failed to beat the
GMH's answer to the challendge with the,350 Chevy HT Monaro,Tho i hate
say it the Ford 351 had a advantage on hp but Ford made bad choice with
tyres and had to hit the  pits more times that the Holdens. The HT and
HK Monaros were the Kings of the mountain for two years thanks to there
Chevy powerplants. The HG never saw the race track, Holden went with 
the XU1 Torana for the 69 race, buts thats another story .

The 350 in the HT Monaro was the most powerful engine ever put in to a
holden up until 1990 !


Justin...

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 15:40:22 1994
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7445
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  Bob Hale (hale@brooktree.com) writes:
>
>I have accumulated empirical evidence that the rear brake fluid
>reservoir of Delco master cylinders loses fluid to _something_
>but I can't figure out where it goes.
>
>I have examined the wheel cylinders, the proportioning valve,
>and the master cylinder itself for signs of exterior leakage.
>I can't find any, yet the fluid level in the rear reservoir
>slowly diminishes.  I thought that perhaps the fluid from the
>rear might be leaking into the front reservoir but the level
>there doesn't seem to rise any.  Anybody have any ideas?

	Um, compensation for brake pad wear, perhaps?  It is normal for the
level in the reservoir to get lower as the brake pads wear.  It shouldn't
be drastic, though, and it shouldn't be all that quick.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.          1987 EX500 - the RaceBike

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 15:49:27 1994
Subject: saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7446
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	My turn for a saw question. I played some more with my
delta bandsaw. It has a 1/5 hp motor that turns 1725 rpm. I use
 a Vermont American 3/8 by 56 1/8 18 tooth per inch metal cutting 
blade. For different types of mild steel, it seems I just knock
the points off of the blade, just like what happens when I 
tried using cheap chineese hacksaw blades. Can anyone reccomend
a blade and where I can get them in this size?
thanks.

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 15:58:45 1994
Subject: Re:  Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7447
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>> but I can't figure out where it goes.

>> Bob Hale      hale@brooktree.com

Bob,

  Take a look in to the power brake booster if you have one.
I dumped out nearly a cup once in one of my old bombs.  Just
a possibility.  If there is any vacuum leak in the booster at
all you might even burn it...


Bill

All mine and no one elses.

----------
Posted by: emory!genrad.com!wdp (William D. Poudrier)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:07:48 1994
Subject: Re:  metal-cutting saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7448
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-> 	I bought a Delta 9 inch bandsaw at a machinery supply house
-> 	with the intent to cut metal. I found a metal cutting blade
-> 	thats 18 tpi and its 3/8 inch wide. I run into trouble
-> 	with the blade turning at an angle when I cut. I'm not
-> 	sure if its just the blade guides not being set right
-> 	or if its a basic flaw in the tool, yet...
-> 
-> ----------
-> Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
->  
Hi Derek,
As a general rule, the larger the blade, the straighter it tends
to cut.  Forcing the cut will also tend to make it crooked.
Suggest you try to adjust the guide wheels.
George

----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:12:48 1994
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7449
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have had a couple of responses to my question about fluid loss
from the rear reservoir of the master cylinder.  It sounds like
the cylinder is leaking into the vacuum booster.  Weird, though,
becuase I can't find any trace of brake fluid (or any other fluid,
for that matter) on the master cylinder or the booster.  I guess
it's time for rebuilt master cylinders (this is happening on more
than one vehicle).

Thanks for the help, guys.

Bob Hale             hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:17:44 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7450
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Jan 29,  2:40pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
> 
> -> He said it looked to have the hole for filling the oil thru the
> -> manifold, and was painted factory Chevy orange.     Made out of good
> -> ol' heavy cast iron.   GM stamps, didn't get the casting #'s.
> 
Are you sure it isn't a Pontiac tri-power?Mike



-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:23:24 1994
Subject: Re: Master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7451
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Keywords: 

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>I have accumulated empirical evidence that the rear brake fluid
>reservoir of Delco master cylinders loses fluid to _something_
>but I can't figure out where it goes.
>
>I have examined the wheel cylinders, the proportioning valve,
>and the master cylinder itself for signs of exterior leakage.
>I can't find any, yet the fluid level in the rear reservoir
>slowly diminishes.  I thought that perhaps the fluid from the
>rear might be leaking into the front reservoir but the level
>there doesn't seem to rise any.  Anybody have any ideas?
>
>Bob Hale         hale@brooktree.com
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)

You didn't mention Bob whether or not you had a power brake slave --
I've heard of master cylinders leaking into the slave and the fluid
making its way back to the engine...  Just a thought.

Phil Gunsul	prg@mgweed.att.com

----------
Posted by: emory!mgweed.att.com!mgwhiz!mogun!prg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:31:17 1994
Subject: Re: Oil sludge
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7452
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I recently dis-assembled my 305 HO engine to replace some leaking seals.
> I found a slight amount of grey sludge which was slick-50 that I
> (unfortunately) tried in 1990.  Maybe what you have is a bunch of slick
> 50 in your motor.
> 
> Another hypothesis I have is perhaps it is a mixture of sludge and
> water, which would form in an engine that didn't get much of a chance to
> warm up.  (like grandma's car that saw three trips to the corner grocery
> store a week).  -- my two cents worth, no warranty expressed or implied.
> --Dan
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!yew.egr.msu.edu!burkdani (Daniel Robert Burk)

Dan,

Thanks for your reply to my grey sludge inquiry.  I would have replied directly
but the above address is a bit confusing to me.

The buick which had this light grey sludge (in the oil pan and a few recesses
in the head) has been in the family since about 1980 and it has never had any
Slick 50 or any other additive.  My theory is that the grey sludge is a 
residue resulting from the breakdown of antifreeze.  I believe this engine
has a tiny coolant leak caused by a the repair of a broken water pump stud
which was drilled out and tapped.  I think the drilling and tapping may have 
caused and internal leak.

Does any of this make sense?

Regards,

John

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 John Greeven                               | "When you are racing, it's life.
 Intergraph Corporation                     |  Anything that happens before
 USPS: 381 East Evelyn Avenue               |  or after... it's just waiting."
       Mt. View, CA 94041-1530              | 
 Phone: (415) 691-6573                      |       -Steve McQueen, LeMans
 Fax:   (415) 691-9016                      |      
 E-Mail: greeven@clipper.ingr.com           |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!speedy.clipper.ingr.com!greeven (John Greeven)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:41:06 1994
Subject: Re: Chevy SB 3x2 intake manifold?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7453
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> GMH Holden in Australia only ever released Q-jeted sbmall blocks to
-> Aust,

 Are you certain?  The article I have (in an old Australian Street
Rodder, I think) showed the 327 up to '72, and had a photo of the 3x2
intake.

 Were they full of it, or was it some third-party thing like the Yenko
or Callaway cars in the US, or the early Phase Falcons?
                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 16:48:56 1994
Subject: Dave's Reference Library, take 2
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7454
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Now that I am to the point of cutting and joining metal for the
Marauder, I figured I'd fill in some holes in my technical library.
You can only afford so many books (my house may yet collapse under
their weight!) but what's a couple hundred bucks if I come across some
neat new trick in a book I don't have yet?  I got out my Classic
Motorbooks catalog and plastic.

 Classic Motorbooks seems to have gone into the publishing business -
several of the books below were published or printed by Motorbooks
International, their parent company.

RIP:  Staniforth's "Race and Rally Car Source Book" is out of print
      Bastow's "Car Suspension and Handling" is out of print

 Slightly over two hundred US dollars brought the following to my door:


"Building a Race Car Picture by Picture"
Steve Smith, Steve Smith Autosports, 1976

 This one is only 50 pages long.  OK, more or less, but not worth the
money.  I thought I'd get some chassis and suspension ideas; mostly I
was surprised how old-timey mid-'70s NASCAR iron was.  There are some
useful ideas if you're running a Late Model or Modified dirt car,
otherwise pass this one up.


"Boyd Coddington's How to Build Hot Rod Chassis"
Timothy Remus, Motorbooks International, 1992       ($17.95)

 The street rod guys think nothing of building their own chassis and
suspension systems.  Some of the most interesting come out of Boyd
Coddington's shop.  I expected lots of detail and shop pictures, maybe
a few design studies.  Alas, the author doesn't seem to know much about
cars in general, doesn't have an eye for photography, and the text
would be useful only to the barest novice.  There are a few photos of
Coddington stuff, but mostly "generic" street rod stuff.  To cap it
off, there's a gratuitous eco-Nazi chapter with ravings about recycling
brake pads and the like.  This book is not only a waste of money, it is
a waste of cellulose.


"Boyd Coddington's How to Build Hot Rod Bodywork"
Timothy Remus, Motorbooks International, 1993      ($17.95)

 This book is even worse than Remus' first book.  Same lack of
substance, same eco-Nazi ravings.  Buy any two street rod magazines and
you'll get more useable information, even if you're a total newbie.


"Best of Tech Tips"
Steve Smith, Steve Smith Autosports, 1977

 This is some general circle track setup info, very old.  None of the
Smith books I purchase appear to have ever been updated or corrected
since their original publications.  Has some minorly useful stuff, but
not worth the price.


"Race Car Fabrication and Preparation"
Steve Smith, Steve Smith Autosports, 1977

 This one is ancient too, but chock-full of useful stuff if you're
building a dirt car, much of it useful for other racing and even
street.  It's not pretty, but the information is there.


"Anatomy and Development of the Sports Prototype Racing Car"
Ian Bamsey, Haynes Publishing (printed in USA by Motorbooks), 1991
($29.95)
(hardback)

 This book is about full bodied "Sports Prototypes" such as the Group
C and GTP cars.  About half is aerodynamics, wings and tunnels and
stuff.  Technically interesting, ancient history rules-wise.  Some nice
photos of how the high-roller racing teams do things.  Very nice if
you're a GTP fan wanting more information about your favorite cars; not
tremendously useful for anyone building or modifying a car.


"The Racer's Guide to Fabricating Shop Equipment"
John Block, Steve Smith Autosports, 1985, 1990  ($12.95)

 This books promises to tell you how to build shop equipment, but the
ads didn't say what.  It covers an engine stand, hydraulic press,
engine hoist (cherry picker), a sheet metal brake, a flame cutter, and
a chassis stand (rotisserie).  The only one I was really interested in
was the metal brake, but the book not only doesn't give you any plans,
the photos make it hard to tell what the finished equipment is supposed
to look like.  I was pretty unimpressed.  56 pages.


"Racecar Engineering Magazine"
three recent issues, $6.95 each

 Motorbooks had 'em, I bought 'em.  They cover Formula 1, GTP, and so
forth.  Lots of nice photography, lots of stuff about the cars, a
little about the designers.  No driver or team manager interviews
(good), no solid tech or hands-on stuff (bad).  I was a bit
disappointed, but I may pick up a few future issues.


"Peformance Handling - How to Make Your Car Handle - Techniques for the
1990s"
Don Alexander, Motorbooks International, 1991

 The book doesn't quite live up to its impressive title, but it isn't
bad.  Roughly equivalent to Puhn's book, but not a copy.  The book is
sort of rough around the edges and the arrangement is peculiar, but
Alexander knows his stuff, and has replaced Herb Adams as Circle
Track's handling editor.  His stuff in Circle Track is much more
refined and polished than what's in this book.  The book is only OK
now, but if/when Alexander does a second edition, I will expect a lot.


"Competition Car Suspension - Design - Construction - Tuning"
Allan Staniforth, Haynes, 1988, 1991    ($39.95, hardback)

 This one isn't as technical as I'd like either, but it does a fair job
of the basics, shows the current state of the art, and has some design
information.  A little weak in theory, and no how-to at all.  It's not
bad, but it costs too much money for what it gives, at least in US
dollars. (it's a Brit book, and someone made a killing doing the
import)




 Conclusion:

 The "Boyd Coddington" books are a thinly disguised rip-off.  Most of
the Steve Smith Autosports books are too old to be worth much - as
heavily advertised as they are, I was surprised to find some had been
in print 20 years without updates.  A lot has happened in 20 years.
I don't feel I got much return for my $200.  Sometimes there are
disadvantages to living in the ass-end of nowhere where there are no
bookstores.
                                                                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 18:43:24 1994
Subject: Chopsaws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7455
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Thanks everyone for their opinions on cheap bandsaws and chopsaws.  I decided
that what I wanted was something that I could make nice square cuts in steel
-- and so I went and bought a Ryobi 14" abrasive wheel chopsaw.

I figured that it would be a lot less work chopping with the chopsaw (just
clamp it and chop it) than using a bandsaw.  A bandsaw would have been nice
for cutting curves and stuff in aluminum, but I seem to be working mostly
with steel.

I got it for $179.00 at Home Depot (a discount hardware store) and I really
like it so far.  I shopped around and looked at more expensive Makita,
DeWalt, and others, and decided this was about the best -- and luckily the
cheapest.  It was the only one with a CAST IRON base.  The others all had
stamped sheet metal bases.  

I cut up some 1" x 1/8" bar stock and it worked great.  It cut fast and
straight and was quieter than I expected.  With the big heavy cast iron base,
there was no vibration or chatter.  It left the edge of the steel nice and
square.

I'll be cutting up some 1-1/2" x 2" tubing and some 1-1/4" x 1/4" angle stock
soon -- if I have anything other than great results I'll let you know.

Thanks again for everyone's feedback.

Tom

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Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jan 31 19:29:20 1994
Subject: Re:  saws
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7456
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

WRT Delta bandsaw and metal cutting:

If you are using the tool I think you are, the blade speed is likely
WAY too fast.  The only good metal cutting band saw that Delta makes
( that you are likely to own ) is the two-speed metal/wood unit, and
that is something like $1000.

My ENCO is SLOW!  It has a reduction pully, then a reduction worm drive.
It takes about a two seconds for it to make one revolution -- thats 30 rpm.
I just used it a few times yesterday.  Snipped right through some mild
steel 1/4 * 1.5 flats; took about as long to walk from the saw to the door
as it did to cut.

I am currently using the cheap Delta blades from Home Depot.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

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Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)