From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 09:35:14 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7063
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> scale is 2 to 3 times the camber scale.  I can get measurements from
-> it if you like.

 Sure!  I'm very interested.
                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 09:40:52 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7064
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Well, the traction lock 8.8 in my mustang needs a rebuild _every_
-> _race_.  Practice + qualifiying + race is less than 200 miles. :-(
-> Thus, part of my happiness at the Ford 9" rule for AS next year.

 I can see where you're coming from.  BTW, the Yunick comment was from
1967.
                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 09:46:32 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7065
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> To the best of my knowlege Smokey was talking about racing
-> applications, as it is really hard to get him to comment on street
-> applications.

 That comment was from his "Say, Smokey" column in Popular Science, from
1967.  That's street only.

 He was also very pro-turbocharger in the '70s and early '80s (those are
the issues I've read so far), at least for street cars.  He also liked
fuel injection.  Odd that he practically starts foaming at the mouth
against either in his Circle Track columns.
                                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 09:52:07 1993
Subject: Re: differentials
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7066
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <#mf2_1-@dixie.com> you write:
>
> Does anyone have the address for the manufacturer of Torsen
>differentials?  It used to be Gleasman, but I don't have their address
>either.

Gleasman just invented the torsen, they were actually manufactured
by Gleason corp in Rochester, NY.  Gleason sold off the Torsen business
a few years ago to a japanese company.  I'm not sure what that company's
name is, I think they are using the name Zyxel-Gleason.  At least a
quarter of the cars at F-SAE '93 had "?????-Gleason" stickers on the
back of their cars.

-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: "Jonathan R. Lusky" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 11:39:07 1993
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7067
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
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----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 11:46:15 1993
Subject: Re: weldable primer?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7068
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> >I've been doing a little experimenting with Muratic Acid (HCL)
	Their is a company here in atlanta that will do that to whole cars
for a litle under a dolar a pound.  It's a very nice alternative to sand
blasting if you have a bare chasis.  It takes all the apint and rust away
leaving clean metal.  Don't put any AL in their though it will disapear.
Their are a copuple places that can do Al though if you happen to have an
old Cobra or something that neads painting :)

Henry

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 11:50:56 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7069
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Thanks for the description.  I'd never come across one before.


-> installed this governor gizmo instead of the typical reaction
-> torque (Posi) system.  Yeah, I'm not happy but the business went

 You're running the 8.8 Fox axle?
                                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 11:55:57 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7070
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Cams Fireball II 302h( .480 lift, 302 dur., 228 dur. @ .050 lift).

 Sounds like a good all-around cam.  It should have a very slightly
rough idle without hurting mileage much.

 If you're willing to trade off a little mileage, you could probably get
a fair performance increase by going to a 235-ish cam which would let
your heads and intake work more efficiently.  You should be looking at a
108 or 109 lobe center for practically any "non-computer" small block
Chevy cam.
                                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 14:10:27 1993
Subject: Re: Auto Design Software?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7071
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Please forward any info. on this to me. I would like to use software
to allocate space for decals and sponser logos. I'm planning to design
logos for potential sponser presentations.   Thanks...


----------
Posted by: John Saltamartine 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 14:19:27 1993
Subject: Re: etching rust
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7072
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Tom Carver wrote:
I found out that Naval Jelly (that pink stuff that etches rust) has
Phosphoric Acid as a main ingredient.


A handy source of dilute phosphoric acid is soft drinks.  The
acid is a main ingredient in most of them.  The diet stuff
won't get as sticky when it dries :-).

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 14:25:15 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7073
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave williams asks about my governor type posi:
 You're running the 8.8 Fox axle?

No, it's a 6000 pound Salisbury with 9.5 inch gears.  It appears
to be GM corporate stuff.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 14:33:16 1993
Subject: Misc about Third Gen F-body
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7074
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi, I just bought a book, something like CAMARO PERFORMANCE, by David Shelby.
It covers the third generation F-body. Not really packed with lots of 
information, but overall an intereting book to read. 

One thing it does is that it comfirms me that the 9-bolts Borge-Warner limited 
slip rear end does not use C-clips. That's why I could not figure out how 
to access to the inside of the diff case to remove C-clips. I bought this 
unit used for around $250. Nothing broken inside. However the axles might 
be bent, because the run-out of the axle flanges are about 0.070". That's 
too much, right? One thing I am confused is that what caused this without 
further damage to the other parts, or it is just that I did not find. 
Anyway, now I know how to take out the axles, and I will send to the 
dealership to be checked and I hope they can.

I also read some intereting information about the so called G-force 5 speed 
transmission. It uses a special synchro assembly, which will enable the 
drive to power shift with out the touch of the clutch. Isn't it great? 
However it must be really expensive. I really wish there is some 
manuafacture there whose makes that kind of synchro for my Super T-10, so 
that I could replace my 1-2 synchro.

Any comments?

Later,

Jizhong

----------
Posted by: emory!MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU!HJZ
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 14:38:59 1993
Subject: Re: diffs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7075
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> -> I'll send you gleason's address soon and I have a few other
> -> AUtomotive Products ect. that make them.  Let me know if you find a

Zexel-Gleason USA,inc.
two jetview Drive
Rochester, NY 14624
(726)464-5004
fax:(716) 328-5477

Henry Sommer

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 16:40:04 1993
Subject: Re: Misc about Third Gen F-body
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7076
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Hi, I just bought a book, something like CAMARO PERFORMANCE, by David Shelby.
> It covers the third generation F-body. Not really packed with lots of 
> 
> I also read some intereting information about the so called G-force 5 speed 
> transmission. It uses a special synchro assembly, which will enable the 
> drive to power shift with out the touch of the clutch. Isn't it great? 
> However it must be really expensive. I really wish there is some 
> manuafacture there whose makes that kind of synchro for my Super T-10, so 
> that I could replace my 1-2 synchro.
> 
	Let me get this straight, you have a third generation F-body(82-92) or 
a second generation?  If it's a third gen. can you tell me if the trany swap
is a big mod job or a simpile conversion, and what is torque rating on the
Super T-10?

     thanks
   -Mark  (frouharf@acf2.nyu.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!acf2.NYU.EDU!frouharf (Mark Frouhar)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 16:47:20 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7077
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


He does not "foam at the mouth" in his Circle Track columns on the issues
of turbochargers or fuel-injection.  WRT turbos, he is usually cautioning othersto think more critically aboutthe set-up they are running since he knows how
few people actually consider the physics completely in many of the changes they make.  I did not read the particular Popular Science column which you are
referring to so I cannot comment on its context any more than I already have.
   
   If he did say that plate-type rear ends wear out around 25K, then I believe
that the rear-ends he was using probably did fail consistently at that milage.
I've never known m to be a liar, since he usually only comments about his
particular experiences.

If you want more insight in to what he meant or about the context in which he
was speaking why don't you write him at CT&RT and ask him, I'm sure he'd
be glad to elaborate.

Preston Marshall          pmarshall@ACM.org


----------
Posted by: emory!ACM.ORG!PMARSHALL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 16:53:53 1993
Subject: Re: Rim and tire sizes...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7078
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Instead of narrowing your rear end, you might try just using offset rims
which wrap around the brake drums.  I don't know what your car looks like
underneath, but on some old leaf spring equipped cars and trucks with the
shocks mounted outside of the frame you can just swap the left and right
spring shackle/lower shock mounts and make new upper shock mounts on the
inside of the frame, allowing you to have the shocks inboard of the axle. 
This can buy you at least a few inches of clearance.  

How wide is your frame and is there anything in between the frame and the
inside edge of your tires that you could remove.  If you used some wheels off
a new Corvette for example, you could really wrap some fat tires around your
brake drums.  Narrowing your rearend can get pretty expensive.

Just some worthless comments.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 17:38:50 1993
Subject: Re: Auto Design Software?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7079
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> Please forward any info. on this to me. I would like to use software
> to allocate space for decals and sponser logos. I'm planning to design
> logos for potential sponser presentations.   Thanks...
> 
I don't mean to start a chain of "me too"s, but, well, me too?  Actually, if
you could post the info or where we might find it, that would be fine for me.

Thanks.

Paul
--
"Now I know why they call television a medium.   It's neither rare, nor
very well done."  
                                        -- Mickey Mouse

----------
Posted by: Paul Olson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 17:45:55 1993
Subject: RE: Misc about Third Gen F-body
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7080
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I also read some intereting information about the so called G-force 5 speed 
>transmission. It uses a special synchro assembly, which will enable the 
>drive to power shift with out the touch of the clutch. Isn't it great? 
>However it must be really expensive. I really wish there is some 
>manuafacture there whose makes that kind of synchro for my Super T-10, so 
>that I could replace my 1-2 synchro.

Chrysler used to sell (perhaps still does) a kit to do that mod to their 
"hemi" 4-speeds.  This is called the "slick shift" conversion.  It 
basically calls for the removal of the syncros and the removal of every 
other tooth on the "clutching" teeth.  I guess this allows for high speed 
engagements.  When it breaks they recommend either Doug Nash (I assume 
Richmond Gear now) or Libery should rebuild it.  I think what you end up 
with is a DN/Richmond gear Race 5-speed (by the looks of what passes for 
synchros - large widely gaped teeth).  From what I understand some 
Pro-Stock racers use either a Liberty 5-speed or a Jerico 5-speed.  Both 
cost in the $4K-$5K range and do eventually break (about every 20 rounds if 
your lucky).

I'm not sure but in some applications you would still need the clutch to 
disengage one gear - not so much to engage the next.  YMMV and I suggest 
that the performance increase you get would not offset the cost of new 
transmissions.  I here a gear set from Richmond Gear is about $200.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 22:41:09 1993
Subject: Re: Rim and tire sizes...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7081
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> Instead of narrowing your rear end, you might try just using offset rims
> which wrap around the brake drums.  I don't know what your car looks like
> underneath, but on some old leaf spring equipped cars and trucks with the
> shocks mounted outside of the frame you can just swap the left and right
> spring shackle/lower shock mounts and make new upper shock mounts on the
> inside of the frame, allowing you to have the shocks inboard of the axle. 
> This can buy you at least a few inches of clearance.  
> 
> How wide is your frame and is there anything in between the frame and the
> inside edge of your tires that you could remove.  If you used some wheels off
> a new Corvette for example, you could really wrap some fat tires around your
> brake drums.  Narrowing your rearend can get pretty expensive.
> 
> Just some worthless comments.
> 
> Tom
> 
Actually, the 58 Chevys have a coil spring suspended rear-end. I hadn't
thought about a really negative offset rim, because the wheel wells
themselves are fairly narrow and I'm going to have to tub it to some
extent. Would this setup (wide rear-end/negative-offset rims) handle
better for the street portion of my driving or would the more
traditional setup (deep-rims/narrower-rearend) be a better way of
going?

-- 
 -----------------------------------------------------------
| "Theater is Life,                           Gary L. Berry |
|  Film is Art,                             gberry@llnl.gov |
|  Television is Furniture"                                 |
 -----------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: Gary L. Berry 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  1 22:47:18 1993
Subject: Re: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7082
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>Subject: Re: timing advance
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Date: Wed, 24 Nov 93 10:42:59 GMT



>> If I advance the initial timing to 20 degrees, I get better mileage, a 
>>super smoothe idle, good low end throttle response, and lousy wide open 
>>throttle performance.

>This is normal when hopping up an engine. What you need to do is to recurve
>the centrifugal advance in the ditributor. Best way is to buy a recurve kit
>rather than trying to modify the factory weights/springs. 

>The custom weights will limit the maximum advance making it possible to run
>16-18 dgr advance at idle. You should also install a degreeing tape on the
>damper so you can look at the advance at different rpms.

>Here is a baseline to begin with (all readings _WITHOUT_ vacuum advance). 
>You didn't specify what engine you're running, this is for a my 350 sb.

>    
>         Stock    Modified
>700        6        18
>1000       6        23
>1500      12        28
>2000      17        33
>2500      25        39
>3000      30        39
>4000      34        39
>5000      34        39
>  
The chart is the same as Chevrolet shows for racing only engines. I run the 
timing around 10 degrees and use the vacuum advance. This gives improved 
mileage and driveability without having to worry about detonation common 
with too much initial advance. When I race I remove the vacuum line and run 
36 to 40 degrees at 2500 to 2700.

>Note that full advance is in at 2500 rpm. Aim for a maximum of 36-40 dgr.

>You also ask if you have to rejet your Q-jet with the new cam. I've heard 
>of people who had to do that but I didn't. I swapped my stock cam for a 
>Summit 270/280 grind. I was surprised to find excellent idle and as good low 
>end torque as with the stock cam. 

>However, I run a Holley carb, not Q-jet. I don't know if the Holley may
>be more 'forgiving' than a Q-jet?
>Have fun!
>Markus ('75 Camaro)

LEE

----------
Posted by: emory!aci1.aci.ns.ca!LEE-L
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 00:39:30 1993
Subject: Re: Misc about Third Gen F-body
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7083
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The swap needs no other than the brake modification. The first 
problem is that my 83' Firebird uses standard size brake line connectors 
and double flared fittings, while the 87' rearend I was putting in uses 
metric size connectors and 'buble' flare ends. I got the converters from 
NAPA. But it took me several trips to get it right. The friendly salesman 
kept on giving me ones that were off just slightly. I also changed the 
master cylinder. And also the junkyard sold me wrong ones. But I think I 
got it streight finally.
So think ahead and have all those small parts ready, and you will be in 
good shape.

Regards

Jizhong

----------
Posted by: emory!MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU!HJZ
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 16:02:09 1993
Subject: 68HC11 development systems?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7084
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I seems to remember some people on this list doing controller (engine
or boost) work with the 68HC11.  What kind of development tools are
you using?

What's available in terms of assemblers or compilers?  Any tools to
allow working on a PC or UN*X platform?

Thanks in advance...

--
Joseph P. Cernada	AIT, Inc.
914/347-6860		50 Executive Blvd.
cernada@ait.com		Elmsford, New York 10523

----------
Posted by: emory!ait.com!cernada (Joseph P. Cernada)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 16:12:16 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7085
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>>-> scale is 2 to 3 times the camber scale.  I can get measurements from
>>-> it if you like.
>>
>> Sure!  I'm very interested.
                                                             
The guage case has an angle of 30 degrees side to side and is about 5" 
long overall; the bubble level on top is 3" long, which has a scale on 
the left for camber, and one on the right for caster.  The camber scale 
has 0 degrees marked in the center, going to +2 and -2 degrees at the 
ends of the scale, +2 being near the flat surface you press against the 
hub. Each degree is 3/4 inch.  The caster scale starts from zero at the 
outer end of the level and increases to 8 degrees near the flat surface. 
It is exactly 2 times the camber scale, and 4 degrees caster corresponds 
to zero degrees camber. The scale itself is located 1-1/4 inch from the 
flat surface, and the bubble tube is about 1/4" in diameter.


----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 16:23:18 1993
Subject: Re: Rim and tire sizes...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7086
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Wide rearend with negative-offset rims vs. narrow rearend with deep rims:

A narrowed rearend would be slightly lighter, and the axles would be a little
less likely to get twisted like a pretzel I guess.  But, you would probably
lose a little driveability on the street if you had to move the coil springs
inward.  You would have more roll.  If the lower shock mounts were mounted
much further inboard, you'd probably have more roll too.

If you can leave the frame and suspension completely intact, it'll save you a
whole lot of work, and you know you'll have the same ride.  If the stock
frame is narrow enough to put in whatever tires you want, all you'll have to
do is chop a little of the inner fender out and tub it.  That's a lot less
work than going the whole Pro-Street route and a lot cheaper.

The only problem you might have with really negative offset rims is getting
the wheels on and off.  It depends on how far your axle drops when you jack
up the car by the frame.  With a longer brake hose and the shocks removed,
you can probably drop it WAY DOWN.

The stress on the rear axle bearings would be worse on a car with a narrowed
rear axle because of the leverage of the wheel sticking way out.

Maybe if you know someone who happens to have some deep negative-offset rims,
you could borrow them long enough to see what fits.  Front wheel drive GM
cars have a deep negative offset.  That would at least tell you how deep of
an offset you can get away with -- and then you could go for wheels with the
right negative offset and as deep dished as you have room for.

Just a few ideas you could try before blowing a lot of cash on the pro-street
job.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 16:30:49 1993
Subject: Re: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7087
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have a question about the timing advance/recurving the distributor.  I'm
going to be recurving my HEI on a SB Chevy, and I noted that the advance
to RPM table listed without vaccuum advance.  Should I just leave the 
vaccuum advanced disconnected?  Or, once these are set, reconnect the advance?
(I think this was asked by someone else too, but I came back from vacation
with 297 mail messages, so I think I missed it somewhere...)

I'm just wondering if it will hurt things to leave it disconnected (thus
losing me power?) or will it put too much advance on the dist if I reconnect
it (or do the new weights and such limit how far the total advance can go or
is just the centrifugal advance limited?)

Thanks!

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 16:35:23 1993
Subject: ethanol or methanol for drag car??
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7088
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	Most everyone at my local track that uses alcohol seems
to use methanol. Outside of the fact that this is all the 
OIL companies around here sells, is there any reason not 
to use ethanol? Any power gains?
(OIL companies tend not to make ethanol. Wouldnt have anything
to do with the fact that theres no petroleum base in 
ethanol, now would it?? :-) )
thanks...

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 17:47:34 1993
Subject: Re: 68HC11 development systems?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7089
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


On Thu, 2 Dec 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> I seems to remember some people on this list doing controller (engine
> or boost) work with the 68HC11.  What kind of development tools are
> you using?
> 
> What's available in terms of assemblers or compilers?  Any tools to
> allow working on a PC or UN*X platform?

We're doing work on the 80515 family for BOSCH Motronic ..

If you're considering the 68000 family .. consider the 68F332 from big Mo'

It contains a TPU (Time Processor Unit) to do MUCH of the dirty work for
you .. locate missing pulses to set TDC, do time or angle synchronous work
and other stuff .. real neat chip .. if you're interested I'll get you the
name of the ref. books .. 

Bitte,

Jim Conforti
(87 325is / 92 325i)

---------------------------------
WORK: 1-800-288-8020 (x3406)
FAX: (801) 373-1889
INET: jec@cpu.us.dynix.com
---------------------------------


----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 18:40:15 1993
Subject: Cheap home-made dyno
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7090
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I've been thinking of a way to build a homemade dyno.
>
>The number one priority would be to monitor an engine under load - and 
>perhpas make adjustments as well.  The biggest problem seems to be to find 
>a way to absorb all the power.  SuperFlow's answer seems to be in the $6000 
>range and therefor out of the question.
>
>So what about this idea:
>
>On a shaft there would be two props from an inboard motor boat:
>1 They should be available to handle 1000hp (cigarette boats)
>2 They should be balanced for high rpm operations (anyone know what the 
>operation rpm range of a typical prop is - and what's available)
>3 Relatively cheap - perhaps even get a used one.
>
>The props would be one left hand screw and one right hand.  Arranged in 
>such a way that water gets force towards each other.  All this would be 
>enclosed in a steam pipe - using the same seals that any inboard motorboat 
>uses - In fact it may be worthwhile getting a used and abused boat...
>So it would look like this:
>
>     ______________________________________________________________
>   /                                                                \
>  |    __________________________     ___________________________    |
>  |   /                         \     /                          \   |
>  |   |                         |     |                          |   |
>  |   |                         |--0--| <- VALVE                 |   |
>  |   |                         |     |                          |   |
>  |   \_________________________/     \__________________________/   |
>--|-------------D----------------------------------O-----------------|  
>   \________________________________________________________________/
>                     -> WATER ->        <- WATER <-
>^               ^                                  ^
>INPUT           PROP PUSHING WATER ->              PROP PUSHING WATER <-
>
>To control the "brake effect" you would vary the the valve.  Basically the 
>valve would act like a pressure relief.
>
>Does anyone know what kinda water pressure I could expect?  I'm assuming 
>that I can get steam pipe in the appropriat inside diameter.  Does anyone 
>out there either have some experience in custom build boats ( or props in 
>general)?  What about someone who knows steam pipes.  
>
>Potential problems (the way I see it)
>1) cost of getting all the components
>2) cavitation of the props - would lead to uneven load -  perhaps 
>pressurizing the pipes to 150psi would help (with air compressor).
>3) Too much pressure - 1000hp can move a cigarette to 80mph or something 
>like that - I suspect that if you can make an efficiency estimate on the 
>prop - you can determine how much water it tries to move - assuming that 
>the resultant flow rate would be small - lets say zero what kind of 
>pressures could I expect?  Finally are there steel / cast iron pipe 
>available to hold this pressure?
>4) Getting an electrically controlled valve - perhaps I need multiple 
>valves to approximate a steady load - seems the system could easily 
>oscillate - now where's my control theory book....
>
>Any comments would be appriciated.
>
>Dirk
>

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  2 21:17:06 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7091
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> outer end of the level and increases to 8 degrees near the flat
-> surface. It is exactly 2 times the camber scale, and 4 degrees caster

 So it reads directly?  It doesn't ask you what your kingpin inclination
is?
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 09:52:08 1993
Subject: Re: ethanol or methanol for drag car??
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7092
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>(OIL companies tend not to make ethanol. Wouldnt have anything
>to do with the fact that theres no petroleum base in 
>ethanol, now would it?? :-) )

Well, methanol doesn't exactly have a "petroleum base", either.
Methanol is usually made from natural gas, though. 

-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: "Jonathan R. Lusky" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 12:59:13 1993
Subject: Gleasons, etc.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7093
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Dave, and others:  Even though you got the info you were looking for, I 
stopped in at Currie.  They are about two miles from where I live, in the
same building as Haydon.  

Gee, do they have nice, expensive stuff for Ford 9".  You can have them make
up a nearly-completely-aluminum rear end, something like 100 lbs less than
stock.  They have everything in between, too.  One of the things I liked
best was the minature, but very-much real, Detroit Locker they had on 
display.  Looked like it would be for karts or something.  You could play 
with it and see all the parts move, lock, etc.

The catalog ( free, with decal! ) shows some brutally strong stuff, and 
they seem up for doing anything that you could describe.   The stock
a wide gear ratio(2.50:1 to 6.50:1), and just about every other thing
you can image, except the Gleason diff you are interested in.
Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704       DoD:1097

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:08:45 1993
Subject: Fool injection.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7094
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Does anyone out there know of good texts on creating and building
your own fuel injection system?  Also, does anyone have an address
for ordering SAE texts?  I would seriously like to purchase both of
them... Actually, ANY addresses of places for ordering good
auto-related texts would be greatly appreciated.

----------
Posted by: emory!sdcc13.ucsd.edu!bkolodzi (Hurdy Gurdy Man )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:17:15 1993
Subject: Re: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7095
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

There seems to have been some confusion on my table regarding timing
advance.  The fault is mine, I should have been more specific.

Yes, the table is measured without vacuum advance, but this does not
mean that you should leave the vacuum disconnected.  After you got the
timing right without vacuum, reconnect vacuum and check for pinging.  If
the engine pings you need an adjustable vacuum advance.  Rule of thumb:

Centrifugal advance = WOT power. At full throttle there is no vacuum advance,
		      only centrifugal.

Vacuum advance      = Part throttle mileage. The more vacuum advance you can
		      run without ping, the better.

Someone mentioned that the table is aimed at race only engines.  I
disagree.  I run this advance with a stock vacuum advance can on low
octane gas without ping.  No 114octane booster/water injection/whatever.

An interesting fact is that longer duration camshaft will make the
engine more ping-resistant.  With a stock cam I could run 12dgr initial
and 33 dgr@2500 (again, without vacuum).  When I swapped in a Summit
270/280 street cam I was able to advance timing to 17dgr initial/
38dgr@2500.

Someone also asked for the procedure for setting the advance curve.

Well, the best way is to put the car on a dynamometer.  Then run the
engine at 1000rpm.  Turn the distributor until the point were rpm stops
increasing.  Then turn back a few degrees.  Note the advance.  Then
increase rpm to 1200.  Turn the ditributor again and note the advance.
Do this through to whole rpm range and you will have a chart that you
supply to a good machine shop.  They will then make custom weights and
springs.

All this is done at high load/vacuum disconnected.  Next step is to get
a adjustable vacuum advance and adjust for max advance without ping.


That is the kosher way.  But in the real world the advance kits you buy
at a friendly speed shop near you will work OK most of the time.

After installing the new weights you should begin with the stiffest
springs.  Also install a degreeing tape on the damper.  This will enable
you the check advance through the whole rpm range.

Then, with vacuum disconnected, set base timing at 10dgr.  rev the
engine (in neutral) and note how advance increases.  Then change
springs, if necessary, so max advance is obtained in the 2500-3000rpm
range.  Next step is to advance timing to obtain a final advance of
36-40 dgr.  This mean that initial advance is not really spefified.  The
range for initial is 10-20dgr, whatever gives the final advance you
desire.  Leave vacuum disconnected and run a couple of WOT blasts.
Check for ping and adjust timing if necessary.  Then reconnect vacuum
and go part throttle cruising.  Check ping and engine heat.  Sometimes
you can not hear the ping but your temp- gauge will tell you about it.
If there are problems you should get an adjustable vacuum advance.

I hope this clears some of the confusion. 

Markus
		 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:23:57 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-43*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7096
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Motoworld                             12/03    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
TOP FUEL CLASSIC, POMONA (T)          12/03    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/03    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN
Movie: Vanishing Point                12/03    8:00-10:00PM     WGN
NASCAR Awards Banquet (L)             12/03    8:30-11:00PM     ESPN
NASCAR Shop Talk w/Eli Gold           12/03    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
SPORTSMAN ALL AMERICAN 400,NASHVILLE(T12/04    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, ELKART LAKE (T)      12/04    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty (powerboats)  12/04    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic(electronics&testing12/04    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
MotorWeek                             12/04   11:30AM-12:00PM   WGN
World Of Speed & Beauty (powerboats)  12/04    1:00-1:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/04    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/04    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/04    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
VINTAGE BMW, LIME ROCK (T)            12/04    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/04    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
COPPER WORLD CLASSIC, PHOENIX (T)     12/04    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             12/05    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
Motoworld                             12/05    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
NASCAR Awards Banquet (T)             12/05    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
1993 NASCAR Year In Review            12/05    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/05    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/05    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, part 2)        12/05    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/05    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/05    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/05   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (powerboats)  12/05    12:00-12:30PM    TNN
M.T. OFF-ROAD CHAMP., DENVER (T)      12/05    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
NHRA, SPORTSNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     12/05    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, part 2)        12/05    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
HYDROPLANE RACING, HAWAII (T)         12/05    4:30-5:30PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic(electronics&testing12/05    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/05    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/05    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/05    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/05    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
1993 ASA Highlights                   12/05    9:00-10:30PM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic(electronics&testing12/05    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/05    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/05   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/05   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/06    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (powerboats)  12/06    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
BUD TOP FUEL CLASSIC, POMONA (T)      12/06    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
KART RACING, ELKART (T)               12/06    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 12/06    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/07    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/08    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
Motoworld                             12/09    12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
1993 Formula One Year In Review       12/09    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/09    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
The Great American Race (T)           12/09    1:00-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             12/10    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 12/10    4:00-4:30PM      HTS*
M.T. OFF-ROAD CHAMP., DENVER (T)      12/11    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, LEXINGTON (T)        12/11    4:30-5:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/12    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/19    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/02    6:00-7:30PM      TNN

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:31:19 1993
Subject: Re: Cheap home-made dyno
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7097
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <+tj2smf@dixie.com> hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

   > I've been thinking of a way to build a homemade dyno.



It's a start, but there are a few more things to consider:

A dyno needs to be operable over a wide range of speeds and torques.

Plan for a way to add some inertia or you'll have trouble shifting.

How do you plan to deal with the energy that the water has absorbed?

No provision has been made for measuring the torque.

Roll geometry is critical to keeping the vehicle from walking sideways

My advice would be to shop around for an old Clayton.  Others may have
different opinions.

--
Val Breault - N8OEF - vbreault@gmr.com   \      /|
Instrumentation dept  GM NAO R&D Center   \    / |
My opinions are not necessarily those of   \  /__|
GMR nor of the General Motors Corporation   \/   |___

----------
Posted by: emory!rinhp750.gmr.com!vbreault (Val Breault)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:36:14 1993
Subject: LPG conversion question?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7098
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	Anyone know where I can get LPG conversion info. Any one
done it that could provide some insight on fuel efficiency 
compared to gasoline?
Thanks...

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:44:09 1993
Subject: RE:  Cheap home-made dyno
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7099
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I've been thinking of a way to build a homemade dyno.
>
>The number one priority would be to monitor an engine under load - and 
>perhpas make adjustments as well.  The biggest problem seems to be to find 
>a way to absorb all the power.  SuperFlow's answer seems to be in the $6000 
>range and therefor out of the question.
>
>So what about this idea:
>
>On a shaft there would be two props from an inboard motor boat:
>1 They should be available to handle 1000hp (cigarette boats)
>2 They should be balanced for high rpm operations (anyone know what the 
>operation rpm range of a typical prop is - and what's available)
>3 Relatively cheap - perhaps even get a used one.

Cheap is where you are going to run into trouble with boat props that can
withstand that sort of power.  For performance stainless props your
looking at $600+ a piece new.  Non performance  stainless can be had for
around $400.  I'm sure the props can take the pressure since they handle
wide open starts in water where the engines achive around 5000 rpm before
the boat even moves.


 >
>The props would be one left hand screw and one right hand.  Arranged in 
>such a way that water gets force towards each other.  All this would be 
>enclosed in a steam pipe - using the same seals that any inboard motorboat 
>uses - In fact it may be worthwhile getting a used and abused boat...
>So it would look like this:
>
>     ______________________________________________________________
>   /                                                                \
>  |    __________________________     ___________________________    |
>  |   /                         \     /                          \   |
>  |   |                         |     |                          |   |
>  |   |                         |--0--| <- VALVE                 |   |
>  |   |                         |     |                          |   |
>  |   \_________________________/     \__________________________/   |
>--|-------------D----------------------------------O-----------------|  
>   \________________________________________________________________/
>                     -> WATER ->        <- WATER <-
>^               ^                                  ^
>INPUT           PROP PUSHING WATER ->              PROP PUSHING WATER <-
>
>To control the "brake effect" you would vary the the valve.  Basically the 
>valve would act like a pressure relief.
>
>Does anyone know what kinda water pressure I could expect?  I'm assuming 
>that I can get steam pipe in the appropriat inside diameter.  Does anyone 
>out there either have some experience in custom build boats ( or props in 
>general)?  What about someone who knows steam pipes.  
>
>Potential problems (the way I see it)
>1) cost of getting all the components
>2) cavitation of the props - would lead to uneven load -  perhaps 
>pressurizing the pipes to 150psi would help (with air compressor).

I don't think this will be a problem since it is a closed system.  They
don't have much of a problem with this on boats at atmospheric pressure.

>3) Too much pressure - 1000hp can move a cigarette to 80mph or something 
>like that - I suspect that if you can make an efficiency estimate on the 
>prop - you can determine how much water it tries to move - assuming that 
>the resultant flow rate would be small - lets say zero what kind of 
>pressures could I expect?  Finally are there steel / cast iron pipe 
>available to hold this pressure?

This looks like your biggest potential problem, 1000 hp makes a lot of
thrust.  A 40 ft power boat with 1000 hp is usaully cappable  of 70 to 80
mph and they weigh around 10,000 lbs.  You do the math!

>4) Getting an electrically controlled valve - perhaps I need multiple
>valves to approximate a steady load - seems the system could easily
>oscillate - now where's my control theory book.... 
> 
>Any comments would be appriciated. 
> 
>Dirk 
> 

Let me know what you find out about steam pipes.  I've considered a
simalar project for some time.  With the addition of adding a scale on a
torque arm and allowing the whole thing to pivot, so hp and torque
readings can be calculated. 

Chip Schweiss
lschweis@nyx.cs.du.edu






----------
Posted by: Chip Schweiss 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 13:56:23 1993
Subject: RE: 68HC11 development systems?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7100
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I joined this list some time back because I heard the same thing. This 
is my first reply to the hotrod list.

I am using the Motorola 68HC11 EVB. It works good and they are cheap. 
Motorola sold them to University students for $50 for some design 
competition. My progress has been very slow, this is only a hobby of 
mine and I am still teaching my self assembler.

Wes Evernden
Victoria, BC
waevernd@system3.lcs.gov.bc.ca
----------
----------
Posted by: emory!system3.lcs.gov.bc.ca!Evernden_Wes_A/lcs_system3
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 14:39:08 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7101
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> So it reads directly?  It doesn't ask you what your kingpin inclination
->is?

Yes, it reads directly as the difference in angles. Kingpin angle is not 
used at all.  The instructions further state that the first reading is 
taken when the front of the tire is turned outward; if the first reading 
is a higher number, caster is positive.  Also, the guage will tend to tilt 
as the tire is turned, but this has only a miniscule effect on readings 
and can be ignored (so the instructions say).  By the way, the side to 
side angle of the guage as stated in the instructions is 29 degrees, 
not 30 as I previously measured.


    

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 14:49:01 1993
Subject: Re: Gleasons, etc.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7102
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

GatorMail-Q                   RE>Gleasons, etc.
>they seem up for doing anything that you could describe.   
>The stock a wide gear ratio(2.50:1 to 6.50:1), and just 
>about every other thing you can image, except the Gleason 
>diff you are interested in.

I almost purchased a used Gleason diff from a friend who had
it in the front of a Toyota 4x4 with a turbo Buick V-6 in it.
The Gleason people said this was a marginal application as far
as strength goes.  The Toyota diffs are essentially like an 8"
version of the Ford 9", pumpkin comes out and is very similar.
He even heard it make some funny popping noises on a couple 
occasions before he went to air lockers.  Maybe that's why 
Currie doesn't carry them - not bulletproof.

Jim Chott
rzaa80@email.sps.mot.com



----------
Posted by: "Jim Chott" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 16:41:38 1993
Subject: Re: LPG conversion question?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7103
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> 	Anyone know where I can get LPG conversion info. 

A company that manufactures CNG and LP conversion systems is located in
California.  They do not do the actual conversions but someone there could
send you info or put you in touch with a retro-fitter in your area.

Their address and phone number is: 

IMPCO Technologies, Inc.
16804 Gridley Place
Cerritos, CA 90701-1792
(310) 860-8666

IMPCO sells a large selection of gaseous fuel carburetors and mixers, high
and low pressure regulators, fuel lock-off valves, etc.  They also have
"closed loop" computer controlled systems for their carburetors and an
electronic mixture control valve/gas mass sensor.  They sell about 
everything you would need except for the LP tank.  


---
Robert Weeks
(rweeks@u.washington.edu)


----------
Posted by: Robert Weeks 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 18:41:53 1993
Subject: Help with oxygen sensor needed!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7104
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've got an oxygen sensor from Borg-Warner, type OS 109. There are three
leads out from it, two white and one black. Which one is for the the sensor
and which is for the heating?

Should the heating be connected to 12 V all the time, or should it be
disconnected when the sensor is heated? I plan to use it as an instrument
to tune engines.

Leif

----------
Posted by: emory!tde.lth.se!leif (Leif Olsson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 18:46:06 1993
Subject: timing advance, etc.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7105
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On my '69 Camaro, I just put in the lightest springs in the recurve kit.  I
left the stock weights.  I've been driving for about a week like this, and so
far it's running better than ever.  I set the initial timing at 16 (vac. adv
disconnected) and it advances quickly up to about 34 degrees at only 2000 rpm
and doesn't get any higher than 34.  All around the car runs great.  I think
I'm going to advance it two or three more degrees so it'll go from about 18
to 36.  I'm a little worried that the maximum advance is coming in a little
too early, but so far it doesn't seem to ping at all.  I also noticed that
the engine runs cool through all ranges.  

Can you hear ping at high rpms?  My engine's so loud that I can't hear
anything other than the roar of air going into the open-air air cleaner and
the exhaust.  If it was pinging I don't know if I'd know.  I have the idle
down to about 500 rpm with no problem.  It sounds good with a little bit of
lope.  On a long uphill grade on a bridge at 75 mph I don't hear any pinging.
If it was pinging, wouldn't I notice a loss of power and overheating?

My home-built .030" over 350 has flat-top forged pistons, mildly ported stock
heads with hardened valve seats (should be about 9:1 compression) a stock
Rochester Q-Jet, and 268 adv duration cam with ~.450 - .460" lift.  

I can put the initial timing as high as 20 degrees advanced with no sign of
pinging.  I use 92 octane.  It seems to be impossible to make the engine
ping.  I do know that it runs like crap if you set the timing to the factory
specs.  It also runs hotter at the factory specs.

By the way, I also have headers, which I'm sure make the engine run better. 
Putting headers on a car has always seemed to me to be the single easiest way
to improve performance.  I put headers on most of the cars I've ever owned,
and have always been impressed by the boost in top end power.  Going from
single exhaust to headers is like adding two more cylinders to a six.  I was
even impressed when I put a header on an old MG Midget with 1094cc.

Back to the recurving dilemma -- if you have an automatic transmission,
wouldn't it make more sense to worry about where the timing is when you reach
the stall speed of your convertor, than to worry about the initial timing.
I have a modified stall convertor, and it's obvious if you keep an eye on the
tach in day-to-day driving that the engine does almost all of it's work right
at around the stall speed of the convertor.  Up until about 2,000 to 2,100
rpm there isn't much load at all on the engine, then it works hard.  For day
to day driving, it would seem that you should really tune the engine for
maximum efficiency right around 2,100 rpm (or whatever your stall speed is).
My car basically doesn't move from a stop much until you get close to the
stall speed.  Once you're cruising it may be lower than 2100 but as soon as
you want to accelerate a little it gets right back up to 2100.  My torque
convertor was supposed to have a 1950 stall, but it looks like it's more like
2,100.  It probably kills my mpg a little, but the car accelerates great.

Thanks for the recurving advice!

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 18:52:15 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7106
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> used at all.  The instructions further state that the first reading
-> is taken when the front of the tire is turned outward; if the first

 What is the claimed accuracy of this device?  Which brand do you have?
                                                                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec  3 18:56:44 1993
Subject: Gleasons, etc.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7107
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> a wide gear ratio(2.50:1 to 6.50:1), and just about every other thing
-> you can image, except the Gleason diff you are interested in.

 Ain't it the way it goes?  Hey, at least you had a nice visit!
                                                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec  4 01:39:11 1993
Subject: test
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7108
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

test
test
test


----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec  4 01:43:02 1993
Subject: mail failed, returning to sender
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7109
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

|------------------------- Failed addresses follow: ---------------------|
 wizski@intgp1!att.com ... unknown user
|------------------------- Message text follows: ------------------------|
Received: by dixie.com (/\==/\ Smail3.1.21.1 #21.6)
	id ; Sat, 4 Dec 93 00:57 EST
Message-Id: 
Date: Sat, 4 Dec 93 00:57 EST
Errors-To: postmaster@dixie.com
Sender: postmaster@dixie.com
Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Subject: test
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-to: hotrod@dixie.com
Posted-Date: Saturday, Dec 04 00:50:28
X-Sequence: 7108
X-gifs-to: met@sunset.cse.nau.edu
X-gifs-from: ftp.nau.edu
X-archives: ece.rutgers.edu
Approved: jgd@dixie.com

test
test
test


----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 




----------
Posted by: 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec  5 14:12:52 1993
Subject: Re: LPG conversion question?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7110
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <6qk2bb@dixie.com> you write:
>
>> 	Anyone know where I can get LPG conversion info. 
>A company that manufactures CNG and LP conversion systems is located in
>California.  They do not do the actual conversions but someone there could
>send you info or put you in touch with a retro-fitter in your area.
>IMPCO sells a large selection of gaseous fuel carburetors and mixers, high
>and low pressure regulators, fuel lock-off valves, etc.  They also have
>"closed loop" computer controlled systems for their carburetors and an
>electronic mixture control valve/gas mass sensor.  They sell about 
>everything you would need except for the LP tank.  

Impco's LPG stuff is OK, but their closed loop stuff is majorly unimpressive
and overpriced (particularly the digital learning controllers).  There is a
company called EMS that I like a lot better (actually, EMS used to make Impco's
controllers before Impco decided to go to the digital thingie).  Actually,
a better setup would be to avoid Impco altogether and go with OHG equipment.
The OHG mixers have much more flexibility in tuning than the Impco.  Last I
checked, EMS didn't have anything that worked with the OHG, but Autotronics
(MSD) had a new feedback controller that worked pretty well with the OHG.
Autotronics also makes dual-curve ignition boxes so you can bump the spark
timing when running on LPG and go back to stock for gasoline.

I don't have addresses for any of the places, but someone else on the net might
or your local propane dealer might.

-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: "Jonathan R. Lusky" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec  5 17:42:02 1993
Subject: WANTED: 1964-66 G.M.C. 1/2 Ton Truck
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7111
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I am looking to purchase a 1964-66 G.M.C. 1/2 ton truck.  I am looking for:
 
     - all original, body with no/minimal dents, no/minimal rust.
     - working condtion is better, but in non-running order is ok.
     - must be restorable.
     - DO NOT WANT A TRUCK ALREADY RESTORED!!!!
     - must be in good original condition.
     
Please e-mail me at:
 
Rhoughto@gpu.srv.ualberta.ab.ca
 
ps.  Western Canada/Western U.S.A. only.
ps.  Thanks in advance

----------
Posted by: emory!gpu.srv.ualberta.ca!rhoughto (Ruth Houghton)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec  6 11:41:17 1993
Subject: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7112
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Has anyone besides me actually tried this yet? I'm finding that 
I not only have to grind for the expected rod-cam clearance but 
that the rods (bolts anyway) hit the block at the oil pan rail 
and at the bottom of the opposing cylinder bore. 
How much grinding is necessary? Will I strike water?
I dont have to do much at the oil pan rail, but the bore 
grinding has me concerned. Its at the place where a cast in 
relief already exists (probably for the same purpose, to clear
the rod bolts.)
Is this worth the aggravation?

Thanks...


--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec  6 19:48:42 1993
Subject: Engine Swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7113
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm looking for advice on my engine swap, or if I should even do it at all 
(i.e. look for a more suitable surrogate).

I've got a '71 Chevelle with the stock I6, and I'm building a big block for the
street.  I'm trying to decide if it will be too much hassle in the conversion 
or not.  So far, this has what has occurred to me:

        new front suspension - extra weight
        new fuel lines - going to Holley 850 with mechanical secondaries, and I 
                          believe current line is 5/16"
        column change - shift lever on column
        new rear end, not including gears - 10 bolt, non-posi
        new brakes - drums all around, manual
        power steering - currently manual

The extra weight is obvious, but I was told some people keep the I6 springs, 
to let the car lift on takeoff.  For daily driving, would it be a problem?

The fuel line is speculative - will I be starving the motor?

The column change was recommended to me for my safety.  I've never driven 
anything more powerful than a factory 318, and it was suggested that in the 
heat of competition I might shift from low to reverse, skipping drive and 
neutral.  I am also replacing the 2 speed powerglide with a T400, which means
a new indicator anyway.

I was told the 10 bolt will quickly tear apart with 4:11 gears and whatever 
torque this thing puts out.

The brakes are a point of concern, but everyone I have spoken with has always
had, at least, discs in front.

Cranking the wheel is alright now - will it get worse?

Different books say different things, and none of them seemed to be based on
experience.  If anyone out there has any in this area, I'd really appreciate
hearing about it.

Thanks.

Paul
--
polson@astro.atk.com
"Now I know why they call television a medium.   It's neither rare, nor
very well done."  
                                        -- Mickey Mouse

----------
Posted by: Paul Olson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec  6 20:00:25 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7114
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Mon, 6 Dec 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> Has anyone besides me actually tried this yet? I'm finding that 
> I not only have to grind for the expected rod-cam clearance but 
> that the rods (bolts anyway) hit the block at the oil pan rail 
> and at the bottom of the opposing cylinder bore. 
> How much grinding is necessary? Will I strike water?
> I dont have to do much at the oil pan rail, but the bore 
> grinding has me concerned. Its at the place where a cast in 
> relief already exists (probably for the same purpose, to clear
> the rod bolts.)
> Is this worth the aggravation?


This sounds like a similar problem to putting as 327 crank in a 283, if 
you grind on a 283, you will hit water, so I'd assume, that this would be 
the case here too...


--R.P.Bjornson


----------
Posted by: Glock Synthetic 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec  7 00:40:39 1993
Subject: regarding '71 engine swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7115
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Regarding the '71 engine swap:

You might want to get rid of the column shifter and use a floor shifter. 
They're easy to hook up.  They look more impressive.

The drum brakes will suck for any high speed panic stops.  Non power steering
is fine unless you put super wide tires up front or you've got a broken arm
or something. 

TC

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec  7 16:01:52 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7116
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


If you couldn't fit a 3.25" crank in a 283 (3 7/8" bore) case then I'd have to s...ask what year case you were using.  The '67 cases (last of the sm juournal)
will take this conversion and the '68 and later 3 7/8" case would easily 
accept this swap since the 307 chevy was in production from '70 to '74 I believeI haven't tried this conversion on the earlier cases ('57-'65).  I do know,
however that the later block have enough material to avoid hitting the water
jackets.  Where you using a longer than stock rod, or slightly lower piston pin
height?  What kind of deck clearence were you trying to run?

Preston Marshall               pmarshall@ACM.org


----------
Posted by: emory!ACM.ORG!PMARSHALL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec  7 18:06:07 1993
Subject: Re: Engine Swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7117
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Paul Olson  wrote
>I'm looking for advice on my engine swap, or if I should even do it at all 
>(i.e. look for a more suitable surrogate).
>
>I've got a '71 Chevelle with the stock I6, and I'm building a big block for the
>street.  I'm trying to decide if it will be too much hassle in the conversion 
>or not.  So far, this has what has occurred to me:


>The extra weight is obvious, but I was told some people keep the I6 springs, 
>to let the car lift on takeoff.  For daily driving, would it be a problem?

I would say your ride height will be lower in front, extra weight could
cause
some bottoming out. Other than that????  Personally I would go for the
stiffer springs to help cornering.

>The fuel line is speculative - will I be starving the motor?
>
>The column change was recommended to me for my safety.  I've never driven 
>anything more powerful than a factory 318, and it was suggested that in the 
>heat of competition I might shift from low to reverse, skipping drive and 
>neutral.  I am also replacing the 2 speed powerglide with a T400, which means
>a new indicator anyway.

If your going to manually shift gears then yes this could be a problem. You

don't really need to change the steering column to add a floor shifter. You
can just remove the shift arm from the column, it doesn't look as nice but
it's cheaper. I would probably get a floor shifter with a reverse lockout.

The only problem from here is the neutral safety switch. It is mounted on
the column and activated by the column shifter. You could wire around it 
and be able to start the car in any gear but it could be against the rules
in a strip car I don't know off hand. You can try to get one to mount on
your new floor shifter. Or hook up the floor shifter and the linkage to the
steering column to activate the switch. The neutral safety switch may need
to be adjusted in this option to work in the proper PARK and NEUTRAL
positions. Just loosen the two screws and slide it around.

I would try one on the shifter to get rid of the extra linkage that could
cause interference with headers. Also the trans mount crossmember
will not be in the same location as it is for PG and TH350 trans. I think
it's about two inches farther back. If the trans isn't the same length as
the original you'll need a new driveshaft too.

>I was told the 10 bolt will quickly tear apart with 4:11 gears and whatever 
>torque this thing puts out.

If you plan on hammering it pretty regular I would go with a 12-bolt or 
a nine inch Ford.

>The brakes are a point of concern, but everyone I have spoken with has always
>had, at least, discs in front.

I have four wheel drum on my 69 Camaro, front disk are in my plans.
So I would change them in your Chevelle with a big block. I would
hit the salvage yard or keep an eye out for a parts car. You'll need
everything between the A-arms as the spindles are different for
disk brakes. Also take the master cylinder/booster off of the same
car as it will be matched to the disk front/drum rear brake setup. 
Now would be the time to change them front springs if you want to.

With the extra weight up front I would add the power steering. Check
your parts car for the power steering box.

Ever notice that when you just start out to do a simple swap one
thing leads to another and another and another. Over all this should
be pretty easy since all this stuff was offered as original equipment
on a Chevelle. It has been alittle harder on my fat rat project.

   Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

   47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
   69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
   73 Camaro LT

----------
Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec  7 19:49:32 1993
Subject: RE: Engine Swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7118
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I've got a '71 Chevelle with the stock I6, and I'm building a big block for the
>street.  I'm trying to decide if it will be too much hassle in the conversion 
>or not.  So far, this has what has occurred to me:
>
>        new front suspension - extra weight
>        new fuel lines - going to Holley 850 with mechanical secondaries, and I 
>                          believe current line is 5/16"
>        column change - shift lever on column
>        new rear end, not including gears - 10 bolt, non-posi>
>        new brakes - drums all around, manual
>        power steering - currently manual
>
>The extra weight is obvious, but I was told some people keep the I6 springs, 
>to let the car lift on takeoff.  For daily driving, would it be a problem?

For the street it is a problem - the front springs are your anti-dive 
during braking.  Replacement springs would be easy to find from a junkyard.

>The fuel line is speculative - will I be starving the motor?

Double check the size of the tubing.  I suspect it would be 3/8's but I 
could be wrong.  Generally 3/8's would be enough for mild performance (
400hp)

>The column change was recommended to me for my safety.  I've never driven 
>anything more powerful than a factory 318, and it was suggested that in the 
>heat of competition I might shift from low to reverse, skipping drive and 
>neutral.  I am also replacing the 2 speed powerglide with a T400, which means
>a new indicator anyway.

>I was told the 10 bolt will quickly tear apart with 4:11 gears and whatever 
>torque this thing puts out.

It will last for a while depending on tires and transmission.  With 3.08 
single track rear and L50's - with soft suspension (no air-shocks or any 
such garbage)  the 1-2 shift sheared the spider gears.  This is a 10 bolt 
rear from a '70 GTO.  Supposidly after I sold the car it did it again.

>The brakes are a point of concern, but everyone I have spoken with has always
>had, at least, discs in front.

I had 4 wheel manual drums (non-assisted).  They worked fine under most 
driving situations - even at the drag strip.  I could always lock up all 4 
wheels with to much brake pressure.  Supposidly drums get hotter and tend 
to fade - I never had the problem even at 100mph at the strip.

>Cranking the wheel is alright now - will it get worse?

Depends on your front tire.  I added power steering from a Lemans.  If you 
go this route you'll need to get all the pulleys and brackets from a doner 
car.  Personally I loved the change from manual to power steering - I also 
added G60's up front. 

>Different books say different things, and none of them seemed to be based on
>experience.  If anyone out there has any in this area, I'd really appreciate
>hearing about it.

You could buy a car like you describe - therefor all the parts are 
available someplace.  Remember any of the olds-pontiac-buicks may havew the 
parts you need.  I would look into the local papers and buy a parts car - 
For GM A-bodies floor shifters where common, so was power steering, bigger 
springs could be had on station wagons - specially big block with AC, you 
might also be able to find a car with a posi rear.  With the amount of 
parts you want a parts car is definitly the cheap way to go.  As long as 
you leave one of the axles in tacked - and leave 2 wheels on the car - the 
junk yards will tow it away - and maybe even give you a few bucks.  Drop 
you I6 in it and they definitly will give you a few buck.

After I rebuilt the GTO - it had a deep sump oil pan - I redid the 
suspension and added cheap coil-over springs (raised the front 1") and 
station wagon springs in the rear - just about leveled the car.  With stock 
sway bars front and rear the car cornered very flat for so much weight.  
The end result was a very responsive car - with enough hp to most cars to 
shame.

Dirk 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  8 10:45:59 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7119
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Tue, 7 Dec 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> 
> If you couldn't fit a 3.25" crank in a 283 (3 7/8" bore) case then I'd have to s...ask what year case you were using.  The '67 cases (last of the sm juournal)
> will take this conversion and the '68 and later 3 7/8" case would easily 
> accept this swap since the 307 chevy was in production from '70 to '74 I believeI haven't tried this conversion on the earlier cases ('57-'65).  I do know,
> however that the later block have enough material to avoid hitting the water
> jackets.  Where you using a longer than stock rod, or slightly lower piston pin
> height?  What kind of deck clearence were you trying to run?

You are right about the first part, but I wouldnt ever trying to grind 
out material, you will hit water...



----------
Posted by: Glock Synthetic 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  8 14:46:34 1993
Subject: Caster/Camber gauges
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7120
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave says:

|> I could see how you could work that out with trigonometry since the
|> apparent camber would change due to caster... except for kingpin
|> inclination.  None of my references have any mention of how to determine
|> kingpin inclination.  I can look up what it's supposed to be for my car
|> and use it to backfigure caster, but... duh.

Ok, maybe I'm being stupid, but wouldn't the kingpin inclination just cancel 
itself out?  Just to make sure I'm thinking of the right thing, that's the angle
a line drawn through the ball joints makes with the ground as viewed from the 
front, right?  So if we go +/- 20 degrees turning, the terms will be the same, I
think.

------
Bryan Blackwell bryan@mitre.org
'65 Corvair, '66 E-type, '69 Road Runner
"There's no such thing as too much horsepower"

If I have opinions, Mitre won't admit to it <= Disclaimer
------

----------
Posted by: "Bryan Blackwell"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  8 15:00:44 1993
Subject: Gasoline Vapour Problem
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7121
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I have a very strange quirk in my engine which I would like to
correct, if possible. First off, the engine is a re-built Chevy 250 I-6
with a 218/218 cam and a Holley 465CFM 4-bbl, and a bunch of other,
various performance parts thrown on.

	When driving on a level highway, my vacuum reading is about
15-17 in Hg, and everything runs fine and smooth. However, if I let
up on the gas going downhill, the vacuum jumps up to the 22-24 range,
and I get a slight odor of raw gasoline in the car, even when the
windows are closed.

	No gas smell can be detected when the car is parked, idling,
or running at any other time. The only time the gas smell is present
is when the vacuum jumps above 20. Any ideas?


							Jason

Fifth Law of Procrastination:
	Procrastination avoids boredom; one never has the feeling that
	there is nothing important to do.

(jcborkow@remus.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  8 15:13:50 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7122
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>If you couldn't fit a 3.25" crank in a 283 (3 7/8" bore) case then I'd have to s...ask what year case you were using.  The '67 cases (last of the sm juournal)
>will take this conversion and the '68 and later 3 7/8" case would easily 
>accept this swap since the 307 chevy was in production from '70 to '74 I believeI haven't tried this conversion on the earlier cases ('57-'65).  I do know,
>however that the later block have enough material to avoid hitting the water
>jackets.  Where you using a longer than stock rod, or slightly lower piston pin
>height?  What kind of deck clearence were you trying to run?

This is a kinda old stuff, but, if my memory is right, there are two
slightly different 283 small journal block castings, from two different
foundries. The difference is apparent when looking at the bottom of the
cylinder block bore area, with the crank removed. The *283* style 283
block is flat here, while the *327* style 283 is concave, thus, will
spin a 327 crank. This started around 1962, when the 327 appeared. All
chevy 2 V8 blocks are the 327 style, with the repositioned oil filter
boss, of course. The 327 style 283 block was pretty common.

Jim Davies







----------
Posted by: emory!sfu.ca!jimd (Jim Davies)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  8 15:21:31 1993
Subject: Re: Engine Swap 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7123
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Paul Olson  wrote

[no need to swap column for a floor shift conversion deleted]

>The only problem from here is the neutral safety switch. It is mounted on
>the column and activated by the column shifter. You could wire around it 
>and be able to start the car in any gear but it could be against the rules
>in a strip car I don't know off hand. You can try to get one to mount on
>your new floor shifter. Or hook up the floor shifter and the linkage to the
>steering column to activate the switch. The neutral safety switch may need
>to be adjusted in this option to work in the proper PARK and NEUTRAL
>positions. Just loosen the two screws and slide it around.

>I would try one on the shifter to get rid of the extra linkage that could
>cause interference with headers. 

     I have to disagree with the above:

   1.  Use the factory setup from the column to the trans, so that
you retain the lock-in-park, and the neutral-start lockout.   This can
be accomplished simply by getting the lever that bolts to the trans
shift shaft from a console shifted car.  Get one off any 2nd
generation camaro (70->81), or almost any RWD GM car that had a
console shift.   You're going to need one anyway, so that you can hook
the floor shifter cable to the tranny.   T400/T350 levers interchange.   
Camaros are most plentiful in the salvage yards....

   2.  Almost all headers fit A/T (even column) cars.  It's the 4
speed cars that have the hassle.  

>With the extra weight up front I would add the power steering. Check
>your parts car for the power steering box.

   Ditto.  It's only a box, hoses, and pump away!

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec  8 23:47:23 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7126
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

->What is the claimed accuracy of this device? Which brand do you have?

I don't find any accuracy claims in the instructions, the scale divisions
are 1/8 degree on the camber scale, and 1/4 on the caster scale.

I ordered this through JC Whitney, and it's called the TRI ang-u-liner,
and it's from:

TRIC-KEE TOOL CO.
6190-C Pine Tree Lane,
Tamarac, FL 33319

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  9 00:03:31 1993
Subject: Re: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7124
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: Re: timing advance
>Date: Fri, 03 Dec 93 16:24:36 GMT

>There seems to have been some confusion on my table regarding timing
>advance.  The fault is mine, I should have been more specific.

>Yes, the table is measured without vacuum advance, but this does not
>mean that you should leave the vacuum disconnected.  After you got the
>timing right without vacuum, reconnect vacuum and check for pinging.  If
>the engine pings you need an adjustable vacuum advance.  Rule of thumb:

>Centrifugal advance = WOT power. At full throttle there is no vacuum advance,
>                      only centrifugal.

Which is why you disconect the vacuum and set the timing for racing.

>Vacuum advance      = Part throttle mileage. The more vacuum advance you can
>                      run without ping, the better.

>Someone mentioned that the table is aimed at race only engines.  I
>disagree.  I run this advance with a stock vacuum advance can on low
>octane gas without ping.  No 114octane booster/water injection/whatever.

The table is in the Chevrolet Power Manual as being for race only engines.

>An interesting fact is that longer duration camshaft will make the
>engine more ping-resistant.  With a stock cam I could run 12dgr initial
>and 33 dgr@2500 (again, without vacuum).  When I swapped in a Summit
>270/280 street cam I was able to advance timing to 17dgr initial/
>38dgr@2500.

This is because the longer cam probably has more and bleeds off low 
RPM cylinder pressure. This means you can "get away with" more initial 
advance but not that more advance is necessary or right. This is also the 
reason you can run more compression with a larger cam.

>Someone also asked for the procedure for setting the advance curve.

>Well, the best way is to put the car on a dynamometer.  Then run the
>engine at 1000rpm.  Turn the distributor until the point were rpm stops
>increasing.  Then turn back a few degrees.  Note the advance.  Then
>increase rpm to 1200.  Turn the ditributor again and note the advance.
>Do this through to whole rpm range and you will have a chart that you
>supply to a good machine shop.  They will then make custom weights and
>springs.

>All this is done at high load/vacuum disconnected.  Next step is to get
>a adjustable vacuum advance and adjust for max advance without ping.


>That is the kosher way.  But in the real world the advance kits you buy
>at a friendly speed shop near you will work OK most of the time.

>After installing the new weights you should begin with the stiffest
>springs.  Also install a degreeing tape on the damper.  This will enable
>you the check advance through the whole rpm range.

>Then, with vacuum disconnected, set base timing at 10dgr.  rev the
>engine (in neutral) and note how advance increases.  Then change
>springs, if necessary, so max advance is obtained in the 2500-3000rpm
>range.  Next step is to advance timing to obtain a final advance of
>36-40 dgr.  This mean that initial advance is not really spefified.  The
>range for initial is 10-20dgr, whatever gives the final advance you
>desire.  Leave vacuum disconnected and run a couple of WOT blasts.
>Check for ping and adjust timing if necessary.  Then reconnect vacuum
>and go part throttle cruising.  Check ping and engine heat.  Sometimes
>you can not hear the ping but your temp- gauge will tell you about it.
>If there are problems you should get an adjustable vacuum advance.

This is great if you plan on running without vacuum. The normal vacuum on a 
SBC will pull the advance up an additional 18 degrees at idle which gives 
good throttle response. At 10 degrees initial this gives you around 30 
degrees.Then when it's time to race set up the timing as above. 

>I hope this clears some of the confusion. 

>Markus
>                 

>----------
>Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)

----------
Posted by: emory!aci1.aci.ns.ca!LEE-L
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  9 00:26:05 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7125
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Well, I'm happy to see a response to this question, but as the title says
"olds rods in a 400". All this info on 283 and 327 is neat, but has
anyone actually done the 400 bit? Supposedly, circle trackers that
have claimer rules do this trick. Any of you out there? Any of you able
to tell me that you HAVE struck water in doing this? How about cam clearance.
Did you HAVE to go to a "small base circle cam" (yup, still open on that old
question, what is the base circle dia. of a small base circle cam. Do you
know? I dont, and need to!) Or were you able to grind a bit off of the
rod bolt head, like on a 350 rod into a 400, and get enough room?
How 'bout it, guys (oops, peoples) any one got insight to this problem.
Or do I get to be the reporter on the scene as I grind my way into 
water jackets only to learn all about block fillers?
(Thats not a big deal since its a drag car thats going to run alcohol.)

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  9 14:46:32 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7127
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>
>-> Well, the traction lock 8.8 in my mustang needs a rebuild _every_
>-> _race_.  Practice + qualifiying + race is less than 200 miles. :-(
>-> Thus, part of my happiness at the Ford 9" rule for AS next year.
>
> I can see where you're coming from.  BTW, the Yunick comment was from
>1967.

	I missed the -> note somehow, and would be interested in finding
out who the author is.  I was considering building an AS car but 
in view of the monthly big $$$ changes to the rules (while a low
bux mod that is sorely needed, c-clip eliminators, gets tabled)
caused me to rethink my position.  The latest "ford 9 inch rear end
is legal in all cars" rule...what exactly does that mean?  None
of the approved brake setups will work on the 9" rear without
(illegal) modification!  To instate a sweeping rule like that with
no further information (or even asking in fastrack for member input!)
astounds me.  

	BTW, the fact that you are roaching out rear ends at that
rate astounds me as well...are you running the panhard rod yet?
That should help keep more weight on the inside tire...

--Ken 
-- 
Ken R. Dye				an optimist is a guy		 |
Lachman Technology, Inc., Chicago	that has never had		 | 
(708) 505-9555 x341			much experience			 |
dye@lachman.com							archy	 |


----------
Posted by: emory!lachman.com!dye (Ken R. Dye )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  9 18:58:58 1993
Subject: Re: Gasoline Vapour Problem
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7128
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


	   When driving on a level highway, my vacuum reading is about
   15-17 in Hg, and everything runs fine and smooth. However, if I let
   up on the gas going downhill, the vacuum jumps up to the 22-24 range,
   and I get a slight odor of raw gasoline in the car, even when the
   windows are closed.

Hmmm... 

Here's my shot in the dark.

When running at such a low MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) it's not
uncommon for an engine to have a high incidence of partial burns and 
misfires.  The cylinder pressure at the time of ignition may not be high 
enough for the mixture to burn completely, if at all.  

Did you disable the EGR?  How about the ignition timing?  Decending a 
hill with the engine spinning at a high speed could advance the spark 
early enough in the cycle to the point where thre is insufficient 
compression to ignite.  Try retarding the timing a few (~10) degrees 
and see if bringing the spark closer to TDC helps the problem.  I'm
not suggesting operating at that setting, just doing it for a diagnostic
test.   (NUTS!) I deleted the cam info... If that's a long duration cam 
it may contribute to the problem.  How about the obvious?  Have you
tuned up the engine lately?  It's not hard to imaging an ignition
system that is too weak to ignite a low pressure charge yet adaquate
for other operating points.

Most folks don't think much about low MAP misfires.  They don't cost
any additional fuel, don't hurt acceleration and can't be felt.  The
folks that design engine systems think about them a lot though.  Every
one of those partial burns and misfires raises the hydrocarbon emissions
from that engine.  An otherwise good engine design may fail simply because 
it's dirty when decending hills.

That's my two cents worth.



--
Val Breault - N8OEF - vbreault@gmr.com   \      /|
Instrumentation dept  GM NAO R&D Center   \    / |
My opinions are not necessarily those of   \  /__|
GMR nor of the General Motors Corporation   \/   |___

----------
Posted by: emory!rinhp750.gmr.com!vbreault (Val Breault)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec  9 19:03:54 1993
Subject: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7129
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi. What is involved in rebuilding a Ford 8.8 traction lock?

I autocross an '86 Mustang. I've had the limited slip differential
rebuilt once, and it made a world of difference to my times.

Unfortunately I can't afford to have someone else do it as regularly
as it requires. I'd like to learn how to do it myself. What does it
entail? Is it just replacing the friction plates with new ones?

I haven't touched a wrench in years. Tips, faxes of manual pages,
and warnings welcome.
			Joe

Joe Weinstein   joe@sybase.com   Sybase 1650 65th st.  Emeryville Ca 94608
							      510-596-3620
"John Bobbit - A Man With No Peer"                        fax 510-658-1832

----------
Posted by: emory!sybase.com!joe (Joseph Weinstein)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 10:07:26 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7130
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Wed, 8 Dec 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> Well, I'm happy to see a response to this question, but as the title says
> "olds rods in a 400". All this info on 283 and 327 is neat, but has
> anyone actually done the 400 bit? Supposedly, circle trackers that
> have claimer rules do this trick. Any of you out there? Any of you able
> to tell me that you HAVE struck water in doing this? How about cam clearance.
> Did you HAVE to go to a "small base circle cam" (yup, still open on that old
> question, what is the base circle dia. of a small base circle cam. Do you
> know? I dont, and need to!) Or were you able to grind a bit off of the
> rod bolt head, like on a 350 rod into a 400, and get enough room?

Ok, here's what I know of putting a 350 crank in a 400.....
Take a forged 350 crank, and weld up the main journals, and then turn 
them down to 2.65 inches to fit into the bearing shells.
Make sure the have it internally balanced too.
Then use 454 rods from Chevrolet, P/N 3969804 or 3963552.
(With ground shank bolts, use P/N 3969864.), by taking .025 in off each 
side of the rod, and grinding a tiny bit off the corner of the rod bolt 
closest to the cam, for clearance.


or try MOLDEX corp to buy a specific crank.
Moldex uses a widened crank journal to allow using big block rod bearings,
but in this case, special pistons are required to get correct compression 
height, and pin-hole diameter.

Any other ?? about the 400???


-R. P. Bjornson




----------
Posted by: Glock Synthetic 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 10:14:13 1993
Subject: vacuum advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7131
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In a recent posting someone said that the vacuum advance will give you an
additional 18% advance at idle.  I don't know if this is right.  On my Q-Jet,
I have the vacuum advance connected to what I think is the "timed" vacuum
port.  If you put a vacuum gauge on that port at idle, it's close to zero,
but when you rev the engine it comes up.  I thought that was the way it's
supposed to be.  Are you guys running the vacuum advance hose to a plain old
manifold vacuum port.  The manifold vacuum ports are full vacuum at idle and
they drop off when you gun it.

I thought the whole idea of the "timed" vacuum port was to give you vacuum
advance at part throttle -- especially when cruising at just above idle, to
give you good mileage and good throttle response.  I think the port for the
timed vacuum line is just above the butterfly valve so that there's not much
vacuum until the throttle blade gets above the vacuum port.

Am I right on this?  

I know a lot of older smog controls consisted of a small vacuum solenoid that
would "turn off" the vacuum going to the distributor, and simultaneously vent
the distributor can to the atmosphere so that there was no vacuum advance at
certain times.  Some automatic trans cars had the TCS switch on the trans
which would kill the vacuum advance in certain gears.  It would also kill the
vacuum advance when the engine got to normal running temperature too. 
Killing the vacuum advance lowers "oxides of nitrogen" I think, but it it
makes the car run like crap.  I've always just bypassed the vacuum switch
and gone directly from the carb to the distributor.

If I'm right about the vacuum port being a "timed" port, shouldn't the vacuum
be low at idle, higher at part throttle, and then zero again at WOT?  (I'm
talking about measuring the vacuum at the "timed vacuum port" which goes to
the distributor.)
 
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 19:38:28 1993
Subject: Re: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7132
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <7sr2ck+@dixie.com> you wrote:
: Hi. What is involved in rebuilding a Ford 8.8 traction lock?
Buy the helms manuals.  I have them, and they seem pretty good instructions,
I haven't done it yet myself.  I'm just in the process of replacing my 7.5
with an 8.8, that'll be fun.

dale

--
_____________________________________________________________________________
Dale Maurice            UNIX(tm) Systems Manager, Competitive Media Reporting
Virginia Beach, VA      dale@wyvern.com, dale@adtellnet.com

"Time is just one damn thing after another.."
_____________________________________________________________________________

----------
Posted by: emory!wyvern.wyvern.com!dale (Dale Maurice)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 19:47:10 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-44*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7133
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Motoworld                             12/10    4:00-4:30PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 12/10    4:00-4:30PM      HTS*
M.T. OFF-ROAD CHAMP., DENVER (T)      12/11    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, LEXINGTON (T)        12/11    4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (valve trains)     12/11    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/11    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/11    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/11    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/11    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
KNOXVILLE NATIONALS, SPRINT CARS (T)  12/11    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             12/12    2:00-2:30PM      WGN
Motoworld                             12/12    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/12    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/12    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Cory McClenathan)            12/12    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today                            12/12    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/12    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/12   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
AMA, DAYTONA 600 & HARLEYS (T)        12/12    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
OFF-ROAD RACING, MALAYSIA (T)         12/12    3:30-4:30PM      ESPN
Winners (Cory McClenathan)            12/12    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (valve trains)     12/12    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/12    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today                            12/12    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/12    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/12    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
NHRA, 1993 Season Highlights          12/12    9:00-10:30PM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (valve trains)     12/12    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/12    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/12   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/12   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/13    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               12/13    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
Thrills & Spills                      12/13    3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/13    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/14    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
DRAG BOAT RACING, PHOENIX (T)         12/14    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/15    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
NHRA, PRO STOCK, ENGLISHTOWN (T)      12/16    12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/16    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/16    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/16    3:30-4:00AM      MTV
INDY LIGHTS, LAGUNA SECA (T)          12/16    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             12/16    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (Mercedes C, Neon, others)  12/16    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
SODA, 1993 Highlights                 12/17    12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
Movie: Bullitt                        12/17    12:05-2:05AM     TBS
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/17    1:00-1:30AM      MTV

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/19    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
Motorsports Hall Of Fame Inductions   12/26    6:00-7:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/02    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/09    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/16    6:00-7:30PM      TNN

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 19:54:21 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7134
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Well, so far my experience is this, I bit the bullet and started grinding.
This is to be a 30 over 400 with a 400 crank and 6" olds rods. the
rods are bushed down for a chevy pin. The crank turned 006 on the 
rod journals. 
Grinding (only the first 4 cyls done so far) has not yet struck water
and has been limited to the already cast in rod relief area at the 
bottom of the cyl. bores and the oil pan rail area just above that
same relief area. I am not yet checking for cam clearance
but will, using a "junk" rod. I dont believe the cam I have is
"small base circle" but dont know cause requests on how to ID a 
cam as small base circle have gone unanswered. I dont know if I'll
get the block checked in the ground areas or just fill the jackets
with "grout" to just above the ground areas. 
But, so far I have not rendered the block to junk. :-)

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 19:58:55 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7135
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


No wonder this company has to sell through JC Whitney, with a
name like:

>TRIC-KEE TOOL CO.

it sounds like their products are either hard to use, or not
worth the money.

Jeff
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
*    Jeff Gardiner                   (H)  617-449-2778    *
*    121 Newell Avenue               (W)  508-562-1086    *
*    Needham, MA 02192                                    *
*                                                         *
* "Practice acts of random kindness and senseless beauty" *
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

----------
Posted by: emory!kpc.com!jeff_gardiner (Jeff Gardiner)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 20:03:50 1993
Subject: Re: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7136
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Dec 9, 17:44, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
>
> Hi. What is involved in rebuilding a Ford 8.8 traction lock?
>
> I autocross an '86 Mustang. I've had the limited slip differential
> rebuilt once, and it made a world of difference to my times.
>
> Unfortunately I can't afford to have someone else do it as regularly
> as it requires. I'd like to learn how to do it myself. What does it
> entail? Is it just replacing the friction plates with new ones?
>
> I haven't touched a wrench in years. Tips, faxes of manual pages,
> and warnings welcome.
> 			Joe
>
>-- End of excerpt from The Hotrod List


It's pretty easy.

You need to have the rear suspended up in the air and both of the rear
tires off.  When you pull the cover plate, a bunch of nasty smelling
oil falls out.  At this point, I usually try to clean out the diff
area as much as possible.  Lots of cloths and some brake-clean,
usually.

There is a big pin with a little bolt to hold the spider gears in
place.  Remove the little bolt, and then slide out the big pin.  You
may have to rotate the rear using the axles to get the right angle.

Bang out the Z-shaped spring.  Remove C-clips.  Slide the axles out a
little bit.  There are four gears that can be popped out.  Two are
splined and have clutch disks and plates on them (the ones where the
axles slide in).

Replace the clutch plates.  Stock the plates are stacked 2-and-1, I
usually repack the plates alternating 1-and-1.  This seems to tighten
up the posi action some.  You may have to see this to understand what
I mean.

That was the easy part...

Now you have to get the four spider gears back in, replace the axles,
replace the c-clips.  The spider gears are the toughest.  The you have
bang the Z-spring back in again.  I find a 2-by-4 and a big hammer
works really well. Replace the big pin and the little bolt.

I usually put of good bead of the blue gasket goop around the cover
and let it sit for about ten minutes.  Then I bolt it on.  Don't over
tighten, or it will leak.

After the rear cover gasket goop has set for about an hour, you need
to remove the fill plug, and dump in the gear lube until it runs out.
Remember to put the friction modifier in first.

Have I missed anything?


Strangely, the 8.8 traction lock unit in my 88 mustang is different
than the 8.8 traction lock unit in my friend's 90 Bronco.  I have
rebuilt both.  The plates are the same, but the spider gears and
Z-spring are bigger on the bronco.  Anybody know what gives?

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 20:09:57 1993
Subject: What a deal!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7137
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Hey all you hotrodders, listen to this...:

	My brother has a a Camaro in which he swapped out the 231V6
engine and installed a 350 w/305 heads and 220/220 cam. The original
radiator that came with the car was a 2-row with a 27 inch core. He
knew he needed a bigger radiator, especially now with the bigger
engine and a higher stall speed converter. So before hopping down
to the local speed shop, he decided to order a radiator from JC
Whitney to see what would happen. (Yeah, we have found most of their
stuff to be of not-great quality, but we have been surprised by
some of their stuff in the past...Like a set of Rockwell Heavy
Duty Coils (with 2.25" coils!) for $39.95).

	So JC Whitney asked for year, make, model, A/C, A/T, number
of rows, and core size.

	So he ordered a 4 row, 27" core for a 1981 Camaro with a
350, A/C, and A/T.

	He received the radiator yesterday. Know what he got? A
BRAND NEW Modine 4-row radiator with transmission cooler! Know
what the price was that JC Whitney charged? $144!

	Now three months ago, I just shoveled out $175 to buy a
Modine 20" core 3-row radiator, so naturally I was pissed. We
know a mechanic, through whom we get a lot of our auto parts
through for wholesale. So through him we looked up the WHOLESALE
price of the Modine radiator. It was $289. So either JC Whitney
has spectacular deals, or they just lost quite a bit of money.
(Maybe it's time for me to get into the radiator business...
Who wouldn't beg for a 4-row radiator if I was selling them at
200 bucks a piece?)


							Jason

Conversation, n.:
	A vocal competition in which the one who is catching his breath
is called the listener.

(jcborkow@remus.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 20:15:06 1993
Subject: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7138
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi there! I have a dilemma I hope someone can help me clear up.  I have a '67
Cougar that I bought this past summer for restoration purposes. I was in
someone's barn and I got it for about $1000. The body is in pretty good
condition, with some pin-hole rust on the rear 1/4's...the drivers side being
the worse of the two sides. The passenger side floor needs replacement behind
teh front seat, and the drivers side floor could use the same. Overall, little
rust, but wavy lines. Now the good part: it's got a 390 with a top-loader
4-speed, with a Ford 9" in the rear. A great drive train. Now the problem...
     Do I keee Cougar and restore it, or junk the body and find an early
Mustang in better condition? 
     I had called a place in CA. to find a shop manual for it, a the guy I
spoke to gave me the idea. He pointed ousome hard to deny truths:  
         1. this _is_ my first major project
	 2. The Cougar is A LOT of work that I probably wouldn't see completed
            for a few years
         3. I definatly won't see any return on my investment with the Cougar,
            but a Mustang on the other hand would appreciate in value.

I really am not too sure what to do. Anyone with experience ithis kind of
project, please feel free to drop me a line at emueller@eden.rutgers.edu.

			Thanks a million!
					--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 20:20:41 1993
Subject: Big Block Towing Trivia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7139
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

For all of you fortunate enough to get less than 8mpg, you probably have a big
block which basically means your vehicle is in the constant process of disassembly
being caused by that big motor. I have some questions regarding big blocks
(mine specifically being a Chevrolet 454 in a Suburban).

1) Exhaust header leak...
	This seems to be a problem, particularly with towing heavy loads. Has
	anyone had experience with:
	a) Stage8 locking bolts
	b) o-ringed exhaust headers. These are more common for small blocks (why
		I don't know. Small blocks don't seem to have blown gaskets as
		a chronic problem).
	c) Accel fuel injection for big blocks (the one with the tuned intake
		runners). Has anyone tried that out?
	d) Finally, muffling that puppy. We've tried DynoMax, but they are too
		noisy. We're contemplating breaking down and buy 2 Borla RV
		mufflers, but before we take the $260 solution, I'd like to
		hear about anyone else's experience...

Thanks in advance
Filippo Morelli
bilge@east.delfin.com

----------
Posted by: Filippo Morelli 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 20:25:20 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7140
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> Well, I'm happy to see a response to this question, but as the title says
> "olds rods in a 400". All this info on 283 and 327 is neat, but has
> anyone actually done the 400 bit? Supposedly, circle trackers that
> have claimer rules do this trick. Any of you out there? Any of you able
> to tell me that you HAVE struck water in doing this? How about cam clearance.
> Did you HAVE to go to a "small base circle cam" (yup, still open on that old
> question, what is the base circle dia. of a small base circle cam. Do you
> know? I dont, and need to!) Or were you able to grind a bit off of the
> rod bolt head, like on a 350 rod into a 400, and get enough room?

Just going to add my .02 - I have never done this or seen a motor that had 
this done to it....

You can partially fill the water jackets with a material - maybe called 
"water block hardner" or stiffner?  or something like that.  The initial 
purpose of this stuff was to stiffen stock-block motors so they could take 
more power.  The positive side affect - if you fill only about an inch at 
the bottom of the water jacket - you could grind up to an inch in clearance
.  I'm almost positive this stuff can seal the block.  Of course it may cut 
down on your cooling...

For some reason I'm thinking Summit catalog

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 10 20:31:03 1993
Subject: RE: vacuum advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7141
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The "timed" vacuum port you are refering to is probably the "venturi" 
vacuum port.  Basically when vacuum is seen you are also drawing fuel from 
the main jets - and are no longer on the pure - idle circuit.

Emission controled GM cars at least - use manifold vacuum during warm up 
and switch to ported vacuum once a preset temperature is reached.  Computer 
controled cars are completely computer controled - at least later on.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 11 14:38:26 1993
Subject: Re: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7142
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I own a Lincoln 100 amp 110v welder and have been very happy with it.
You have to compare the features, not just the price.
Mine has infinitly adjustable heat and wire speed which are very nice.

Good luck

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!rjm (Roger Mrdutt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 12 08:36:07 1993
Subject: 305 head question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7143
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

someone told me I could put different heads on a '78 chevy 305 to get better 
compression/flow...is this true? what are my options?

thanks


      
  QQ
   \_/   clintt@cyberforce.bga.com 
  

----------
Posted by: emory!cyberforce.bga.com!clintt (Clint Todish)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 12 08:42:05 1993
Subject: intake manifold
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7144
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


i have an '84 Crown Vic 302 cu in using the ford central fuel
injection (2 bbl) system. the car has 112,000 miles, but it still runs
great. it has started shedding carbon chunks that get stuck in the egr
valve, holding it open at idle which means it won't idle. since i will
have to remove the manifold to clean out the carbon, i am wondering
will an aftermarket manifold like the edelbrock performer work as good
with this fuel injection unit as well as it does with a carb?


thanks,

...........................................
. Peter Crisler . WD4ARS . Middletown, KY .
...........................................
. peter.crisler@tfd.coplex.com .
................................


----------
Posted by: emory!tfd.coplex.com!peter.crisler (Peter Crisler)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 12 17:37:59 1993
Subject: Re: Big Block Towing Trivia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7145
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Fillipo,
don't know if I got your name right!
Have you tried soaking your header gaskets in water over night?
Or just use a whole lot of high temp RTV on both sidesof gasket?
My friend's little block Chevy used to pop header gaskets all the time,
but both of these tricks have worked very well.
Matt  A.
-- 
Matt Acheson (acheson@sfu.ca)
Battling the forces of good and evil at SFU

----------
Posted by: emory!sfu.ca!acheson
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 14:39:51 1993
Subject: Re: vacuum advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7146
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article 84r26gk@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>In a recent posting someone said that the vacuum advance will give you an
>additional 18% advance at idle.  I don't know if this is right.  On my Q-Jet,
>I have the vacuum advance connected to what I think is the "timed" vacuum
>port.  If you put a vacuum gauge on that port at idle, it's close to zero,
>but when you rev the engine it comes up.  I thought that was the way it's
>supposed to be.  Are you guys running the vacuum advance hose to a plain old
>manifold vacuum port.  The manifold vacuum ports are full vacuum at idle and
>they drop off when you gun it.

Most new ('new' beeing after 1970 or so...) carburators have a timed vacuum port.
Your description is correct; 

No or low vacuum at idle
High vacuum at part throttle
No vacuum at WOT

I'm not really sure why this port was first introduced. My guess is some
sort of emission control. 

Anyway, when installing a high performance cam the idle quality can deteriorate.
By switching to a full vacuum source (plain old manifold vacuum) the idle
may improve. This was the case with my engine. 
  
>I know a lot of older smog controls consisted of a small vacuum solenoid that
>would "turn off" the vacuum going to the distributor, and simultaneously vent
>the distributor can to the atmosphere so that there was no vacuum advance at
>certain times.  Some automatic trans cars had the TCS switch on the trans
>which would kill the vacuum advance in certain gears.  It would also kill the
>vacuum advance when the engine got to normal running temperature too. 
>Killing the vacuum advance lowers "oxides of nitrogen" I think, but it it
>makes the car run like crap.  I've always just bypassed the vacuum switch
>and gone directly from the carb to the distributor.

The TCS (Transmission Controlled Sparc) system only enables vacuum advance 
in high gear (3 on 3-speed autos, 3 & 4 on 4-speed manual) and _hot_ engine. 
I also think it disables the vacuum when decelerating (extreme high vacuum).
 
>If I'm right about the vacuum port being a "timed" port, shouldn't the vacuum
>be low at idle, higher at part throttle, and then zero again at WOT?  (I'm
>talking about measuring the vacuum at the "timed vacuum port" which goes to
>the distributor.)

Absolutely. But as I said earlier, some engine like full vacuum to help up
idle quality and off idle response.
 
I also run 17dgr initial timing, so when measuring timing I get really high
readings. Like 30dgr at idle...But the engine loves it. 
 
>Tom
>
>----------
>Posted by: Tom Carver 

Markus


----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 14:45:10 1993
Subject: Re: Big Block Towing Trivia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7147
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>> don't know if I got your name right!
> Have you tried soaking your header gaskets in water over night?
> Or just use a whole lot of high temp RTV on both sidesof gasket?
> My friend's little block Chevy used to pop header gaskets all the time,
> but both of these tricks have worked very well.
> Matt  A.
> -- 
> Matt Acheson (acheson@sfu.ca)
> Battling the forces of good and evil at SFU
	I have had miserable results with cheap headers on small 
chevies. The problem I encountered is that the header tubes are 
welded to the flange on the head side of the flange. The tubes are
not the shape of the port, in some cases smaller than the port. This
leaves a small gap between the port and the header resulting in no
sealing surface for the gasket (look at an old gasket set, where its
burnde thru notice that the gasket has little to no imprint on it 
from the header weld bead. ) My solution was to remove the headers
and braze the weld flange out, giving a larger area for the gasket
to seal on. Then regrind or file the brass down to the original 
weld height. You now have a large flat surface to seal gaskets with.
My own preference is to use the good felpro header gaskets, not the
cheaper white ones. I still have occasional trouble with the bolts 
loosening up, but the felpro gasket doesnt burn or crush out like
the white gaskets do. My results, same header gaskets for 3 1/2 
years now with no leaks.

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 14:50:40 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7148
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>      Do I keee Cougar and restore it, or junk the body and find an early
> Mustang in better condition?
>      I had called a place in CA. to find a shop manual for it, a the guy I
> spoke to gave me the idea. He pointed ousome hard to deny truths:

I may be biased since I own a '69 Cougar, but...

>          1. this _is_ my first major project
Yes, but a Mustang would be too.

>              2. The Cougar is A LOT of work that I probably wouldn't see
completed
>             for a few years
Same response.

>          3. I definatly won't see any return on my investment with the
Cougar,
>             but a Mustang on the other hand would appreciate in value.
Questionable.  A car is worth what the market thinks it is worth.  The Cougar
is rarer than the Mustang (increasing its value) while the Mustang has a larger
following (increasing its demand and thus value).  I bought my Cougar in 1984
for about $600.  I am in the process of restoring it, but even without touching
it the market value in my area is now around $1000.  Of course, either car
appreciates much more rapidly if it is *original* (which I assume your Cougar
is not) rather than if has been basterdized (like mine).

So, assuming there isn't much of a difference in appreciation between the two,
the real question is what kind of condition the rest of the body is in.  If the
interior & exterior are in decent shape and you like the model (the Cougar was
targeted as more of a *luxary* sports car), the easier option might be the
Cougar.  If, however, you find a late 60's Mustang in perfect condition except
for a  blown engine & tranny that someone is selling for dirt cheap, that would
probably be the better option.  My $0.02.

Bundy



-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Bundy Charles Wist                   wist@sde.mdso.vf.ge.com
523 Susan Dr                         bcw106@psugv.psu.edu
King of Prussia, PA 19406            (215) 265-7060
"What's great for a snack and fits on your back?  It's LOG LOG LOG!"
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

----------
Posted by: emory!sde.mdso.vf.ge.com!wist (Call me Al)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 14:56:58 1993
Subject: Re: 305 head question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7149
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> someone told me I could put different heads on a '78 chevy 305 to get better 
> compression/flow...is this true? what are my options?

Use any of the older 194 or 202 heads for more breating capacity.
If you need more compression  try  old 194 heads with the small combution area.
(72cc)

/////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
Mike Yoder	Phone (303) 225-9445	|Computer Systems Troubleshooter
MCR CO.		Fax   (303) 226-2913	|Software Developer
PO Box 9662		                |Systems Consultant
Ft. Collins, CO 80525      E-Mail  -    |mikey@lobo.rmh.pr1.k12.co.us

----------
Posted by: emory!lobo.rmh.pr1.k12.co.us!mikey (Mike Yoder)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 18:49:01 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7150
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I think the answer to your question lies in what you want to accomplish.
Do you want a somewhat scarce big-block Cougar? You have all the parts.
Or do you want the hassle of trying to find a big-block 'Stang which will
(most likely), be in worse shape than what you already have. Most anyone
who has a 390 4spd. 'Stang will have already restored it or found it to be
unrestorable and is trying to unload it on someone else.
Cougar parts are easy to obtain, the work required is identical.
The Cougar has a slightly longer wheelbase and handles better.
Seems like _everyone_ has a Mustang, and the market isn't all that strong
these days anyways.
You can tell my preference, eh?
:)

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt                        met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1964 Galaxie XL 428 SCJ Auto
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 390 Tri-Power Auto
1967 1/2 ton Truck 406 Auto
***************************************************************
Disclaimer: NAU isn't concerned with what I say, 
            I'm merely an Alumni.

----------
Posted by: MILLAM 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 19:02:34 1993
Subject: Re: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7151
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

thanks!

----------
Posted by: emory!sybase.com!joe (Joseph Weinstein)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 19:43:27 1993
Subject: Re: 305 head question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7152
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


DANGER...
	The 305 heads are 58 CC with small valves. there have been 
numerous magazine articles on putting these heads on non-305's to 
get a cheap compression boost. The use of a 64 cc or larger volume
head will drop compression in a 305. Further, the use of a larger
valve head on a 305 may cause the pistons and valves to kiss. And
thats no sweet kiss either!

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 19:56:23 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7153
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Bundy,  Thanks for the response...so far, two people have replied, and both suggested to stick with the Cougar. My, My...decisions, decisions! 
		Thanks for the advice.....
				--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 20:04:18 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7154
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

:      I had called a place in CA. to find a shop manual for it, a the guy I
: spoke to gave me the idea. He pointed ousome hard to deny truths:  
:          1. this _is_ my first major project
: 	 2. The Cougar is A LOT of work that I probably wouldn't see completed
:             for a few years
:          3. I definatly won't see any return on my investment with the Cougar,
:             but a Mustang on the other hand would appreciate in value.

Before listening to someone's advice, you have to answer a few questions
that you should ask yourself, like: How much work/money can I put into the
car?, How much work will I do myself?, Are you buying it as an investment?

I'll likely get flamed for this, but the Cougar is much more rare than
a Mustang and I personally prefer the styling.  Rarity is also part of
the determination of value.  If I were in your 'dilemma', I would
definitely go ahead with the Cougar project.  If the drivetrain is in
really good shape and all you have to do is body and floors, you could
probably consider yourself lucky.  I am not sure this fellow in CA was
right on the ball with #3.  Check out the latest issue of "Old Cars
Price Guide" or some other such reference.  I have a hunch you may be
surprised.

At any rate, I would suggest that you go with what you like.  Restoring
a car that you do not care for will lead to an incomplete project and/or
getting rid of the car before its time.

--
Derek H. Thille --> dht260@dvinci.usask.ca	1966 Buick Wildcat
Communications Systems Research Group		1993 Yamaha XT350
University of Saskatchewan			DoD # 1115
Saskatoon, SK, Canada		

"Taste death; live life" -- Sean Gregory Sullivan as Suicide in Ski Patrol

----------
Posted by: emory!engr.usask.ca!Derek_H_Thille (Derek H Thille)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 20:09:43 1993
Subject: Smog pump needed
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7155
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

OK all you evil baby-killing commie guys who've stripped your car of
its emission stuff, give me a hand.  I need a couple of functioning
smog pumps.  I'm trying not to have to pay for these things so be gentle
on me :-)  I WILL pay shipping.  So let me help you clean out your
junk box!

Oh, OK, since you asked, I'm setting up a neon plant and the pumps will
be used to supply the low pressure compressed air for the gas burners
used to work the glass tubing.

Thanks,
John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                   | For a free sample magazine, send
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM)     | a digest-size 52 cent SASE 
Marietta, Ga     "Love America"          | (Domestic) to PO Box 669728
jgd@dixie.com    "Hate its government"   | Marietta, GA 30066
Email to me may be published at my sole discretion.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 13 20:23:45 1993
Subject: Administrivia: It's that time again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7156
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Time for my Christmas best wishes and a reminder.  As the academic
semesters come to and end, people take extended vacations and email
accounts go away, it's time for me to remind you to please unsubscribe
to this list before your account goes away.  Just send a request
to the admin address (glass-request, hotrod-request, etc) and
on the Subject line say:

drop your@address

That will take care of it.  I also request that you unsubscribe if
you plan on activating a vacation program in your absence.

Finally, y'all have a merry Christmas and a Happy New year!

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                   | For a free sample magazine, send
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM)     | a digest-size 52 cent SASE 
Marietta, Ga     "Love America"          | (Domestic) to PO Box 669728
jgd@dixie.com    "Hate its government"   | Marietta, GA 30066
Email to me may be published at my sole discretion.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 07:45:52 1993
Subject: Cougar
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7157
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'd stick with the Cougar.  It's nice not having a car that everyone and
their mom already has.  The Cougars are getting rarer (and slightly more
valuable) by the minute.

In a sea of old Mustangs, your Cougar could stick out in the crowd.

I would suggest getting into the project more for the fun instead of as some
sort of money-making scheme.  If you figure in the countless hours you spend
restoring/hot-rodding your car, you never do make much money -- do it just
for the fun.  I think I'd have more fun showing off a rare-ish Cougar than a
not-so-rare Mustang.  It's nice to stick out in the crowd.  

If you don't really like Cougars much in the first place then it probably
wouldn't be a thrill to work on it for hours and hours.  I'd go with
whichever car "grabs me".

I saw an old Cougar the other night that was lowered in the front, had huge
rear tires, and was painted flat black.  It looked pretty cool.  I kind of
like the evil flat black mystery car look.  Maybe you could give it a minimal
fix-up job, drive it around for a while, and see if you like it before you go
all out and start restoring it.  It's boring working on a car you're not
exactly crazy about.

Whatever you do, hope you have fun.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 08:09:19 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7158
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Dec 10,  7:31pm, The Hotrod List wrote:

>      Do I keee Cougar and restore it, or junk the body and find an early
> Mustang in better condition? 
>      I had called a place in CA. to find a shop manual for it, a the guy I
> spoke to gave me the idea. He pointed ousome hard to deny truths:  
>          1. this _is_ my first major project
> 	 2. The Cougar is A LOT of work that I probably wouldn't see completed
>             for a few years
>          3. I definatly won't see any return on my investment with the Cougar,
>             but a Mustang on the other hand would appreciate in value.
> 
> I really am not too sure what to do. Anyone with experience ithis kind of
> project, please feel free to drop me a line at emueller@eden.rutgers.edu.
> 
> 			Thanks a million!
> 					--Erik

Erik, since it is a 390 and 4 speed I think you have yourself a bit of a 
rare bird there.  I would not be too quick in giving it up.  Don't get 
in a rush either. Talk to some other people before you decide to can 
this project. There are lots of things you can do with that Big Block FE
and of course there is a ton of performance goodies from Ford made for 
that motor. Talk your project around somemore.  As you do you will find more
information about your car.Cheers.Mike

> Posted by: Erik Mueller 

-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 08:15:24 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7159
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Millam, thanks for the reply...so far most people hace recommeneded to stay with the Cougar.  I just might. 
				--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 14:43:45 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7160
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Sounds like you have a '67 XR7. From the soud of it you would be wasting your
time and money if you did anything except make a decent car out of it. I had
a '67 coupe (289) that was original to the family, and after years of time on
it I decided to sell it and search for a car that I would make into something
closer to a hotrod instead of a generic daily driver that needed help.
My biggest project was making a new set of sequential turn signals, and I
didn't have to deal with any rust (California car) as you do. You'll find that
the sub flooring and especially the space near the heater usually rusts to
a lump fairly quickly. 

If you have a couple of thousand to throw into it, it would be a good project,
but I'm saving my time and money for a '68 GTE or '69 or '70 Eliminator,
all of which are quite rare and worth the time.

Note - Cougars are a collectors item, just like Mustangs are, just harder to
find parts for.

----------
Posted by: Tom Laird 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 18:47:40 1993
Subject: Re: Big Block Towing Trivia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7161
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

X-News: skitzo.dseg.ti.com alt.hotrod:4570

>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject:Big Block Towing Trivia
>Date: Sat, 11 Dec 93 00:39:53 GMT
>Message-ID:<8ws2-bf@dixie.com>

>For all of you fortunate enough to get less than 8mpg, you probably have a big
>block which basically means your vehicle is in the constant process of disassembly
>being caused by that big motor. I have some questions regarding big blocks
>(mine specifically being a Chevrolet 454 in a Suburban).
>
>1) Exhaust header leak...
>	This seems to be a problem, particularly with towing heavy loads. Has
>	anyone had experience with:
>	a) Stage8 locking bolts
>	b) o-ringed exhaust headers. These are more common for small blocks (why
>		I don't know. Small blocks don't seem to have blown gaskets as
>		a chronic problem).
>	c) Accel fuel injection for big blocks (the one with the tuned intake
>		runners). Has anyone tried that out?
>	d) Finally, muffling that puppy. We've tried DynoMax, but they are too
>		noisy. We're contemplating breaking down and buy 2 Borla RV
>		mufflers, but before we take the $260 solution, I'd like to
>		hear about anyone else's experience...
>
>Thanks in advance
>Filippo Morelli
>bilge@east.delfin.com
>
>----------
>Posted by: Filippo Morelli 

Filippo,

As far as the header leaks I have seen two common problems, cheapo $50 headers
that warp etc. and cheap gaskets.  I always use the Felpro blue gaskets with a
metal core and I have never had a leak or a blown gasket, but then again all my
experience is with Pontiacs.

Troy

----------
Posted by: EILAND 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 20:35:36 1993
Subject: Re: 305 head question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7162
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In  hotrod@dixie.com writes:

> > 
> > someone told me I could put different heads on a '78 chevy 305 to get better 
> > compression/flow...is this true? what are my options?
> 
> Use any of the older 194 or 202 heads for more breating capacity.
> If you need more compression  try  old 194 heads with the small combution area.
> (72cc)
> 

	Correct me if I am wrong....but won't the valves in those heads hit the
cylinder walls?

----------
Posted by: emory!LINDEN.MSVU.CA!RRAY (Robert Ray)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 14 20:46:31 1993
Subject: Re: Smog pump needed
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7163
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Oh, OK, since you asked, I'm setting up a neon plant and the pumps will
>be used to supply the low pressure compressed air for the gas burners
>used to work the glass tubing.
>
>Thanks,
>John

Just what pressure and flow are these capable of?  Also, any chance of
using them as a cheap vacuum pump?

Kludgeing, er, ah enquiring :) minds want to know!

Carl Ijames     ijames@helix.nih.gov


[NO, not any useful vacuum, at least.  These are ususally carbon vane
pumps with a large chamber volume but low compression ratio which limits
both the pressure and vacuum capabilities.  The built-in relief valve 
typically lifts at 10 psi or so.  The standard for glass fires is 
2 psi air so the pump is ideal.  BTW, I have yet to get a single 
reply to my previous beg.  Doesn't ANYONE have a spare smog pump laying
around?  JGD ]
----------
Posted by: emory!helix.nih.gov!ijames (Carl F. Ijames)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 10:18:20 1993
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7164
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
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Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
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To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
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If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
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The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
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If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
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The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

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Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
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These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

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	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

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Index

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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:00:24 1993
Subject: 305 heads, again.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7165
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I spoke to a machine shop here in town and a guy suggested 'from personal 
experience' to use 267 heads on my 305...does he know what's up? exactly 
what would this accomplish?
 
thanks


      
  QQ
   \_/   clintt@cyberforce.bga.com 
  

----------
Posted by: emory!cyberforce.bga.com!clintt (Clint Todish)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:14:31 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7166
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Mike, thanks for the advice! some of my previous doubts have been appeased somewhat. I may yet keep the Cougar...
				--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:27:10 1993
Subject: Re: Cougar
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7167
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Tom, Actually I was thinkiing of paintng it flat black. I think that would be really cool.
Thanks for the reply.
				--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:31:41 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7168
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Well, after listening to advice from all you loyal readers, I think I
may have come to a decision.  Looks like the Cougar is here to
stay...for a while anyway.I really like the idea of having a car that is
fairly rare, and the Cougar does certainly fit the bill.  I do have a
few more questions, though...  This summer I am going to work on the
engine.  It does need a rebuild (milage unknown).  I'm going to try to
do a complete rebuild, and was wondering what modifications might be
worth doing to the block, heads, cam, etc...  I'm am going to use the
car for primarily street use, with frequent vivits to the track.  Also,
What is the second best method of storage for the car?  (first best
being indoors).  Realistically, do I have any choice other than to rent
a self-storage garage for the winter?  I think if I don't do something
like that, the body will dissappear by the end of the winter.  --Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:37:04 1993
Subject: pressure sensors (BOOST)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7169
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Anyone have a source for pressure sensors?  I'm looking for something
to measure manifold pressure (including BOOST), say up to about 20psi.

[The most common sensor is the GM MAP sensor.  Rugged and fairly cheap.
There are 3 variants.  GM #16017460 is for normally aspirated engines.
#16009886 is a one BAR unit (up to 14.7 psi boost). #16036394 is
for 2 BAR (up to 29 psi.)  This sensor outputs a voltage proportional
to the absolute pressure on its inlet port.  The connection is 3 wire.
Holding the sensor so the inlet port is down and the connections
are on the left, the terminals are from bottom to top: +12, sig, gnd.
JGD]

Voltage output (changing resistance) would be preferred, though I'm
willing to listen to ideas on frequency output.  A spec sheet would be
nice also.

I'm toying with the idea of a simple turbo boost controller
(non-microprocessor)...

I'd also be interested in a source for 3-way solenoid air valves...

Thanks in advance.

--
Joseph P. Cernada	AIT, Inc.
914/347-6860		50 Executive Blvd.
cernada@ait.com		Elmsford, New York 10523

----------
Posted by: emory!ait.com!cernada (Joseph P. Cernada)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:52:21 1993
Subject: Re: 68HC11 development systems?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7170
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I seems to remember some people on this list doing controller (engine
>or boost) work with the 68HC11.  What kind of development tools are
>you using?

I've developed an ignition system using the 68hc11.  You can learn more of it 
by subscribing to John's magazine, _Performance_Engineering_.  I choose not to
use a 68hc11 EVB board since it can only emulate single-chip mode.  The hc11 
is very easy to develop in expanded mode if your experienced in its use, if 
not, you will also need a logic analyser.

-tim


----------
Posted by: emory!spbted.gatech.edu!tim.drury
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 13:59:00 1993
Subject: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7171
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Has anyone besides me actually tried this yet?

 Like I said, I haven't built one, I just scoped out the parts.


-> and at the bottom of the opposing cylinder bore.
-> How much grinding is necessary? Will I strike water?

 My brother went up about 1-1/2, 2" into the cylinder walls of his 350
to fit his aluminum rods.  He sweated blood over it, then realized he
could have saved a lot of worry by simply sticking a coat hanger into
the water jacket to see where the bottom of the jacket was.  Plenty of
room in his case.

-> Is this worth the aggravation?

 I wouldn't have tried to put 6" rods in a 400, but they sell pistons
for it, and evidently lots of folks do it.  I doubt you can fit *any* 6"
rod, steel or aluminum, into the 400 block without grinding.

 In my brother's 350, four cam lobes touched the rods up above the
bolts, on the shank.  Manley said it was OK to grind the rods, so we
did.  You can do the same with the steel rods.  If it's the bolt head
that's the problem you have three alternatives - if the interference is
slight, you can grind a little off the bolt.  If there's severe
interference, you can either have the rods machined for shorter bolts,
or have them tapped for capscrews run up from underneath, like aluminum
rods use.

 Keep us filled in on how it goes, OK?  I'd like to know how it all
works out.
                                                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 14:04:36 1993
Subject: Your Mail Server...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7172
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

John --
 
    Could you once again tell me the specifics on using your mail
server?   I'd like to get a copy of the fit.exe program you used for
your home-built injector tester. 

    Also, did PE ever do the "Under $600 FI" project?    If so, are
back issues available?  

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"
 

[Send mail to listserv@dixie.com.  In the body say:

index
help

The first command sends you a list of available files.  The second
sends the help file.  To get the file you're interested in, say:

send fit.zip

The EFI project starts in the next issue.   JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 17:44:52 1993
Subject: Moon Tanks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7173
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've been seeing a lot of cool customs and hotrods with Moon Tanks up front. 
Are they there just for show, or do they use them as radiator overflow tanks.
Weren't they originally used as gas tanks on really old dragsters?  Was the
idea to let the "g" forces of the car launching forward help push the fuel
back through the lines to the engine?

I don't think a dinky gas tank right up front would be too wise for a street
car, but it would be a fancy place for a radiator overflow tank.

Just curious,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 17:57:34 1993
Subject: Goin home
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7174
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Goin Home,  please unsubscribe me.



Merry Christmas and a happy new year

----------
Posted by: CORVETTE STINGRAY 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 15 22:09:33 1993
Subject: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7175
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

   I'm developing a 4 cyl fuel inj system, and I think I have figured out
   how to  'drive' everything, except for the spark coils.  By reading a 
   36 toothed wheel, minus one tooth, my system can output a specified 
   'dwell' pulse at a specified crank angle - but I can't figure out how
   to drive the coils! I'm planning on using the 'wasted' spark system.
   My advisor will kill me if this engine isn't running on the dyno before
   Christmas!

      So, my first question is: Does anybody have a 'favorite' way to spark
   coils?  I'm using the the nice-looking Ford 4-cyl dual-coil pack from a
   late-model 1.9L Ford Escort (they're also used on the new modular V-8's,
   I believe).  And I can scavenge a set of Electro-Motive coils.  And, of
   course, I can alway buy a different set of coils, if someone has a system
   that works. 

      Secondly, in case anyone is interested, I'll post my set-up below.

      The Ford dual-coil pack has three spade inputs - one +12v power lead
   and two coil inputs.  The 'case' of the coil pack is grounded.  
   According to the _1992_Escort/Tracer_Electrical_&_Vacuum_Troubleshooting
   _Manual_ (p7-5), the EDIS module (Ford's computer ignition module) 
   "turns the primary circuits on and off by intermittently grounding 
   circuits (coil inputs). Each interruption of primary current makes the
   Ignition Coil secondary circuit produce an open circuit high voltage
   pulse."  This sounds simple enough, and that coil pack looks pretty cool.

      With power hooked up to the coil, the coil inputs nominally have +12
   volts at each terminal (at least mine do).

      So, I figure that the coil inputs should be switched with a 
   transistor to ground when my dwell pulse is high.  And, since I don't 
   want to blow up my nice wire wrapped circuitry, I think that these 
   outputs should be opto-isolated.  My university stores carry _one_ type
   of opto-isolator, the TI MCT2.  It has a transistor output.  I've wired
   it up as follows (pain in the %&$ ASCII drawing follows):

  Dwell pulse        +-----------------+
      -----////------| 1 -+   +----- 6 |
           1 K       |    V   |        |
	      GND ---| 2 -+   |  /-- 5 |--- Coil input
		     |        +-|      |
		     | 3         \-> 4 |--- Coil ground
		     +-----------------+
   where: 
	 PIN 1 = photo-diode input
	 PIN 2 = photo-diode output
	 PIN 3 = N/C
	 PIN 4 = photo-transistor base
	 PIN 5 = photo-transistor collector
	 PIN 6 = photo-transistor emitter

  Therefore, when the Dwell pulse goes 'high', the photo-diode will light, 
  give the photo-diode some base current, and saturate the collector to 
  emitter connection. I bench-tested this circuit with a dummy resistor to
  +15 volts, and the transitor saturated pin 5 down to about 0.4 volts.
  This should switch the Coil Input to the Coil Ground, and I should get
  a spark at my plugs.

    But I don't.

    My thinking is that I need to use a different transistor - perhaps 
  driving the base with the opto-isolator output - but I really don't 
  know where to start looking.  Seriously, I haven't given coils much
  thought over the past few months - I've been more concerned with the
  computer and the intake manifold contstruction.  I don't have much
  'hard' data on coils, and how to drive them.

    Oh yeah, I'm outputing a 30 crank degree dwell pulse, although
  this can easily be changed.

      So, if anyone can help me, please let me know.  E-mail or this
  this newsgroup is fine.   Thanks.....

-- 
|        Peter J Nelson        |       "I was supposed to put it        |
|  pjnelson@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu   |            in a container?"            | 
| University of Illinois @ U/C |               - Beavis                 | 
|    Mechanical Engineering    | _Beavis_and_Butthead_ "The Sperm Bank" |

----------
Posted by: emory!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!pjnelson (Peter J Nelson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 01:29:10 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7176
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> This sounds like a similar problem to putting as 327 crank in a 283,
-> if you grind on a 283, you will hit water, so I'd assume, that this
-> would be the case here too...

 1/4" stroker cranks for the 283 used to be a common part.  The 307
blocks have the same casting IDs as 283s anyway.
 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 01:33:21 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7177
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Or do I get to be the reporter on the scene as I grind my way into
-> water jackets only to learn all about block fillers?

 Well, at least you're not running *aluminum* rods... 

 If you're within six or seven hours of Little Rock, I'll drive over to
hold the drop light and pass the beer.
                                                                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 01:37:24 1993
Subject: pressure sensors (BOOST)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7178
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Anyone have a source for pressure sensors?  I'm looking for something
> to measure manifold pressure (including BOOST), say up to about 20psi.
> 
> [The most common sensor is the GM MAP sensor.  Rugged and fairly cheap.
> There are 3 variants.  GM #16017460 is for normally aspirated engines.
> #16009886 is a one BAR unit (up to 14.7 psi boost). #16036394 is
> for 2 BAR (up to 29 psi.)

Any suggestions on what junkyard vehicles to look for that might have
the 2 BAR sensors?  Turbo Gran National/T-Types?

Any idea of the approximate cost new from a dealer?

Thanks.

--
Joseph P. Cernada	AIT, Inc.
914/347-6860		50 Executive Blvd.
cernada@ait.com		Elmsford, New York 10523

----------
Posted by: emory!ait.com!cernada (Joseph P. Cernada)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 01:42:00 1993
Subject: 305 head question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7179
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> someone told me I could put different heads on a '78 chevy 305 to get
-> better compression/flow...is this true? what are my options?

 It depends.  Some of the 305 heads have pretty good ports, but the
chambers are a bit large.  Some people use 283 heads to raise the
compression, but although the 283 heads will give more velocity, they
flow less air.  You get a boost on the bottom end and lose some from the
top.  On a daily driver street motor it'd be worth the tradeoff, but if
you're going for performance it wouldn't help much.

 You can port the 283 heads to flow well, but it's a lot of work.  A set
of high compression pistons can be had for a couple hundred bucks, and
it'd save money over purchasing new heads, having them rebuilt, and all
the burrs and drill motors you'd use up.
                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 01:46:41 1993
Subject: Smog pump needed
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7180
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Oh, OK, since you asked, I'm setting up a neon plant and the pumps
-> will be used to supply the low pressure compressed air for the gas
-> burners used to work the glass tubing.

 What's the pressure/CFM rating on those air pumps run, anyway?  Can't
be that much, because the Corvette uses an electric air pump.
  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 01:50:17 1993
Subject: Re: 305 head question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7181
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> head will drop compression in a 305. Further, the use of a larger
-> valve head on a 305 may cause the pistons and valves to kiss. And
-> thats no sweet kiss either!

 Well, not the piston, actually.  Crank and rods are the same as a 350.
But big valve heads can smack the side of that little 3-3/4" cylinder
bore.

 Hey, the 262 and 267 are even worse.  I don't know if the 267 can use
any head other than what it came with.  That little 3.5" bore...
                                                                                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 10:23:30 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7182
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Take a forged 350 crank, and weld up the main journals, and then turn
-> them down to 2.65 inches to fit into the bearing shells.

 After you weld all over it, it won't matter much whether you started
with a forging or a casting.  People originally line-bored and notched
used 400 bearings as spacers for 350 bearings, then TRW used to make
thickwall bearings for the conversion, but they don't make them any
more, so people are back to using spacers.  Works OK even if they ain't
glamorous.


-> Make sure the have it internally balanced too.

 It already is.  Or was.


-> Then use 454 rods from Chevrolet, P/N 3969804 or 3963552.
-> (With ground shank bolts, use P/N 3969864.), by taking .025 in off
-> each side of the rod, and grinding a tiny bit off the corner of the
-> rod bolt

 The big block Chevy rod uses a 2.2" bearing.  The small block uses a
2.1.  You're not going to get it to work unless you weld up the rod
journals and turn them down.  On the other hand, the Olds rod uses a
2.124 rod bearing, .024 larger than the small Chevy.  You can use it by
turning the Chevy crank .006 under and using .030 under Olds rod
bearings, available anywhere.  For the next rebuild you use .040
bearings, available from Vandervell and a couple of other places.


-> or try MOLDEX corp to buy a specific crank.
-> Moldex uses a widened crank journal to allow using big block rod
-> bearings,

 There's no question the big block bearing size would be better.  Crower
used to do that when he was playing with SB Chevys for Indy.  Chevy rod
bearings are 'way too small to start with.  However, a $2500-ish crank
is a little beyond what most people would buy for a street motor.
                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 14:36:39 1993
Subject: Olds V8 Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7183
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have two Olds engines questions.

1.  I am looking into sending my Olds 455 engine out to have the Dave Smith 518
overboar/overstroke rebuild done.  Has anyone had any experience with this kit
and what kind of performance gains have they gotten?  Is the extra displacement
going to be worth the price or would the money be better spent on other
developement?

2.  In the absence of the 455 and since my 350 is in the middle of rebuilding I
am going to use it's original 260 which is almost rebuilt (just as a spare)
until either of the two aforementioned are ready.  The question is:  Does the
Olds 260 use the same Oil Pan as say the Olds 330 or 350 small blocks do?  They
share common cams, valve covers etc. and I wonder if anyone knows if the oil
pans are also interchangeable (sp?)?

Thanks,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 14:44:08 1993
Subject: Olds V8 Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7184
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have two Olds engines questions.

1.  I am looking into sending my Olds 455 engine out to have the Dave Smith 518
overboar/overstroke rebuild done.  Has anyone had any experience with this kit
and what kind of performance gains have they gotten?  Is the extra displacement
going to be worth the price or would the money be better spent on other
developement?

2.  In the absence of the 455 and since my 350 is in the middle of rebuilding I
am going to use it's original 260 which is almost rebuilt (just as a spare)
until either of the two aforementioned are ready.  The question is:  Does the
Olds 260 use the same Oil Pan as say the Olds 330 or 350 small blocks do?  They
share common cams, valve covers etc. and I wonder if anyone knows if the oil
pans are also interchangeable (sp?)?

Thanks,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 14:58:57 1993
Subject: Re: Moon Tanks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7185
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> I've been seeing a lot of cool customs and hotrods with Moon Tanks up front. 
> Are they there just for show, or do they use them as radiator overflow tanks.
(stuff deleted)

Rodder's Digest did an article a few months back on a clever use for a 
dummy Moon tank in a '27 T roadster. The tank opened up to reveal the
battery for the car.  

The idea of putting gas in an unbaffled tank in the front of a street car 
gives me the willies. Though come to think of it, I'm not sure I like the
idea of a battery up there either...

I did see another, safer use for the tank.  One end unscrewed to reveal
cleaning supplies for a show'n'shine.  Space is always at a premium on
street rods.

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:10:43 1993
Subject: Re: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7186
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Look into Motorola's MC3334 High Power Ignition chip.  It controls dwell based
on a previous dwell.  Coupled to one of their Darlington-pair transistors you 
can get a good bit of energy to the coil.  This is the same method I use in my
ignition system.

-tim


----------
Posted by: emory!spbted.gatech.edu!tim.drury
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:19:21 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7187
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> Well, after listening to advice from all you loyal readers, I think I
> may have come to a decision.  Looks like the Cougar is here to
> stay...for a while anyway.I really like the idea of having a car that is
> fairly rare, and the Cougar does certainly fit the bill.  
> ----------
> Posted by: Erik Mueller 

I am glad to hear (see?) you are going to keep the Couger.  Don't think I
have ever seen the combination that you have.  I saw car bag advertized 
once.  Maybe in HOT ROD.  It is a bag that you put the car in.  Think of a
sip-lock bag for a car.  Sounds like a good alternative to me.  Good luck
with the car, keep us posted. 
Larry Stariha, '70 Nova SS, 383/TH350.	
		

----------
Posted by: emory!lasc.lockheed.com!stariha
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:30:55 1993
Subject: RE: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7188
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  Dwell pulse        +-----------------+
>      -----////------| 1 -+   +----- 6 |
>           1 K       |    V   |        |
>              GND ---| 2 -+   |  /-- 5 |--- Coil input
>                     |        +-|      |
>                     | 3         \-> 4 |--- Coil ground
>                     +-----------------+
>  where: 
>	 PIN 1 = photo-diode input
>	 PIN 2 = photo-diode output
>	 PIN 3 = N/C
>	 PIN 4 = photo-transistor base
>	 PIN 5 = photo-transistor collector
>	 PIN 6 = photo-transistor emitter
>
>  Therefore, when the Dwell pulse goes 'high', the photo-diode will light, 
>  give the photo-diode some base current, and saturate the collector to 
>  emitter connection. I bench-tested this circuit with a dummy resistor to
>  +15 volts, and the transitor saturated pin 5 down to about 0.4 volts.
>  This should switch the Coil Input to the Coil Ground, and I should get
>  a spark at my plugs.
>
>    But I don't.

Off hand sounds like you have it backwards.  You want to invert the signal 
to the photo-diode.  When the photo-diode is on the coils will "charge"  
When the photodiode turns off the transistor will turn off - shutting off 
the coils - in effect opening the points.  One concern you have might be 
the limits on the last transistor - you may create a spark that will try to 
blow its way through the transistor.  Consider putting a condensor ( ie. 
capacitor ) accross the wires going from the coil to ground.

One last thing you may want to try - the standard GM HEI ignition module - 
$12 at our local super car part store - can take the pulse off of a 
magnetic proximity detector and switch the coils from off to on.  If you 
can match the specs you could build an inexpensive crank triggered ignition 
system - although adjusting the timing would be more difficult.  Typical 
dag race motors use a harmonic balancer with 4 knobs(even fire v-8) and two 
sensors - one sensor to start the engine on the other as a "run" mode.  A 
toggle switch switches between them.

I would suggest you try your system first - then excercise it and try to 
blow the transistor / opto isolator.  Perhaps an oscilliscope could capture 
the voltage spikes etc.  Also check for variations in the wave shape.  If 
you start with a nice square pulse train that slowely becomes more of a 
sine wave your might be seeing degredation in the transistor or at least 
the effects of heating.

If it works - but then the tranisistor blows in short order - consider 
driving another transistor with the optoisolator:

Connect pin 5 to 12V
Connect pin 4 to the base of the other NPN transistor

The NPN's colector should be hooked to the coil's (-) (ie control) and the 
emitter should be hooked to ground.  This gives the added benefit of 
allowing you to tailor some of the threshold voltages by inserting 
resistors.  The second transistor will turn on as long as there is at least 
.7V at the base (note the voltage will never get higher than .7 so you may 
need current limiting resistors in series with the base).  I suspect the 
ultimate circuitry will look like this:

  Dwell pulse        +-----------------+   --///////---- 12V 
      -----////------| 1 -+   +----- 6 |   | resistor
           1 K       |    V   |        |   |
              GND ---| 2 -+   |  /-- 5 |---     _______________  to coil
                     |        +-|      |       /      |
                     | 3         \-> 4 |------|       -   Capacitor
                     +-----------------+       \->----|
                                                      |
                                                      -  ground

You must choose the resitor in such a way that it saturates the coil.  Find 
out how much current is needed to saturate.  Let say it is 10Amps.  Next 
find the gain of the 2nd transistor - lets say it is 100. (the Beta).  That 
means the opto - isolator must put out .1 amp to saturate the coil.  For 
safety assume .2 amps (or even more).  So the circuit needs to draw .2 amps 
with the first transistor droping .4v and the second droping .5v.  So if 
you have a 12V circuit the transistors drop almost 1V and the resistor will 
have to drop 11V at .2 amps (FYI you need a 2.2Watt resistor).

Easy enough?  For a mopar coil they recommend 9V (thanks to a ballast resistor)
.  So 3v is being droped by a .250 Ohm resistor - that translates into 12 Amps
 so the above equation is in the ballpark.

Also a Condensor might help keep the noise down and the back- EMF down.

Good Luck
Dirk 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:41:38 1993
Subject: special order springs for dodge shadow & spirit
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7189
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have been speaking to Eibach. I have their variable rate springs,
and I was thinking of getting something stiffer, by perhaps 25% in the
front and 30% in the rear. They will make springs for 5 cars for about
$280 per car. Is anyone interested in some variable rate springs,
stiffer than their normal springs?

Eibach normal variable rate front 22 Newtons/mm to 53 Newtons/mm (high rate
after 10 mm of compression)

Eibach normal variable rate rear 25 Newtons/mm to 56 Newtons/mm

	Jeff turbo Deifik		turbo@isi.edu

----------
Posted by: Jeff Deifik 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:48:33 1993
Subject: Engine Swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7190
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> The extra weight is obvious, but I was told some people keep the I6
-> springs, to let the car lift on takeoff.  For daily driving, would it
-> be a problem?

 There'll be no problem.  The front will sit lower than a normal big
block car, which may or may not suit your style, but it won't hurt
anything if the springs haven't died from old age.  If you find the car
hits the bump stops too often you'll probably want to put in the
"proper" springs later.


-> The fuel line is speculative - will I be starving the motor?

 As far as I know GM only used one size of fuel line, period.  These
guys who rip out the original lines and replace it with 3/4" are mostly
fooling themselves.  The stock line will feed anything Chevy ever put in
there, and there were some ass-kicking 427s and 454s available if you
had an understanding dealer and money.


-> The column change was recommended to me for my safety.  I've never
-> driven anything more powerful than a factory 318, and it was
-> suggested that in the heat of competition I might shift from low to
-> reverse, skipping drive and neutral.  I am also replacing the 2 speed
-> powerglide with a T400, which means a new indicator anyway.

 I strongly recommend letting the transmission fend for itself.  If it
doesn't shift when you want, you call up B&M or TCI or Art Carr and tell
them what you want for the valve body.  If you want a manual trans, buy
a manual trans.

 I don't remember where the shift detents are on a Chevy, but if they're
in the column, you'll need more than just a three-speed indicator.  If
so, you might as well convert to a floor selector.


-> I was told the 10 bolt will quickly tear apart with 4:11 gears and
-> whatever torque this thing puts out.

 If you're going to pay for 4.11s, you might as well get the 12-bolt in
the first place.  They're cheap enough for Chevelles.  Make DAMNED sure
whoever installs the gears knows what they're doing - Jeeter and Enos at
the corner gas station probably don't.  While the rear is out, you might
want to think about slapping some new springs in the posi after you look
at the plates, and make sure all the bearings are OK.  It's best to bite
the bullet and do it all in one shot.


-> The brakes are a point of concern, but everyone I have spoken with
-> has always had, at least, discs in front.

 The car is 23 years old and (presumably) hasn't rear-ended anyone yet.
If you're just running on the street and drag racing I wouldn't worry
about them in the least.  If, at some point in the future, you need to
change ball joints or drums, you'd have a perfect excuse to slide in a
set of disc brake spindles, but if you're not going to fade what you
have, upgrading is a waste of money.


-> Cranking the wheel is alright now - will it get worse?

 You have manual steering?  The steering will get slightly heavier, but
not much.  This assumes you're staying with the stock front wheels, or
wheels with no positive offset.  If you slap on a set of deep-dish rims
and 60s in front, you'll wind up with shoulders like Rambo.


-> Different books say different things, and none of them seemed to be
-> based on experience.  If anyone out there has any in this area, I'd
-> really appreciate hearing about it.

 I haven't gone from a six to a big block, but I've upgraded a '64 and a
'69 from a six to a small block, and a '70 Monte from a small block to a
big block.  Oh... the Monte was a Swap From Hell, trying to locate all
the right brackets for the A/C, PS, the bracket to hold the shifter
cable, practically everything.  The engine didn't have any brackets at
all, and GM changed every bracket every year, best as I could tell.  Big
block brackets seem to be both hard to find and expensive around here.
I guess all you need is the alternator bracket though.
                                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:54:58 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7191
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I don't find any accuracy claims in the instructions, the scale
-> divisions are 1/8 degree on the camber scale, and 1/4 on the caster
-> scale.

 Heck, I've looked at that ad before.  I guess I'll buy one.  
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 15:59:42 1993
Subject: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7192
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Unfortunately I can't afford to have someone else do it as regularly
-> as it requires. I'd like to learn how to do it myself. What does it
-> entail? Is it just replacing the friction plates with new ones?

 It's not that bad.  If you're going to do it regularly, though, you
might want to check into getting a second rear end.  Fox rears can be
had for $50 or so sometimes, if you do a little looking.  It'd be worth
the expense to be able to simply swap rears and work on the worn one at
your leisure, rather than having the car sitting there on jackstands.
                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 16:04:41 1993
Subject: Re: olds rods in a 400 question - again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7193
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Grinding (only the first 4 cyls done so far) has not yet struck water
-> and has been limited to the already cast in rod relief area at the
-> bottom of the cyl. bores and the oil pan rail area just above that

 Heck, you gotta do *lots* more than that to get aluminum rods in a 350.
Keep on truckin'!


-> "small base circle" but dont know cause requests on how to ID a cam
-> as small base circle have gone unanswered. I dont know if I'll

 When did you ask that?  The Chevy base circle is [opens window and
looks - doesn't have info online] [considers going out to shop to
measure one, but it's cold out there]   Ain't you got no old Chevy cam
to measure?  Just mike across the lobe perpendicular to the pointy end.
If you don't have an old cam, I'll measure one for you in the morning.


-> cam as small base circle have gone unanswered. I dont know if I'll
-> get the block checked in the ground areas or just fill the jackets

 Use a coat hanger and measure the water jacket depth in the areas
you're grinding.
                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 16:09:44 1993
Subject: receiver-dryers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7194
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I'm trying to replace the A/C on my wife's car.  The system has been
open for years so the books say it needs a new receiver/dryer.  Since
I'm poor and the part is expensive, I was wondering if there was any way
to recondition the dryer.  What's in there, anyway?  I obviously can't
toss it in the microwave like those silica gel packets, but can I pull a
vacuum on it or something?
                                                                                [Heat and vacuum.  Hook whatever pump you have to it and bake it at 
																				350 degrees or so while you suck on it.  Give it a few hours. JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 18:58:56 1993
Subject: Building Up Cams, Cranks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7195
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  In all this discussion about crank journals, etc. I'm reminded of
John's old Lawnmowers From Hell thread.

  I want to fool around with some small B&S engines for possible
karting applications.

  What material do you guys use to build up crank journals, cam
lobes, etc.?  Welding rods seem too soft to me.

  Ron "Duh, Me No Metallurgist" Rader

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 19:09:29 1993
Subject: Re: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7196
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>   I'm developing a 4 cyl fuel inj system, and I think I have figured out
>   how to  'drive' everything, except for the spark coils.  By reading a 
>   36 toothed wheel, minus one tooth, my system can output a specified 
>   'dwell' pulse at a specified crank angle - but I can't figure out how
>   to drive the coils! I'm planning on using the 'wasted' spark system.
>   My advisor will kill me if this engine isn't running on the dyno before
>   Christmas!
>
>      So, my first question is: Does anybody have a 'favorite' way to spark
>   coils?  I'm using the the nice-looking Ford 4-cyl dual-coil pack from a

>|        Peter J Nelson        |       "I was supposed to put it        |
>|  pjnelson@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu   |            in a container?"            | 
>| University of Illinois @ U/C |               - Beavis                 | 
>|    Mechanical Engineering    | _Beavis_and_Butthead_ "The Sperm Bank" |
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!pjnelson (Peter J Nelson)


Peter,

GM's orinional HEI ignition modules were built by , I think National
Semiconductor (the databook is red), I have the databook at my other office.  I
beleive that it shows the internal circuitry of the module, its very simple. 
If you can locate an automotive products databook you should be able to get
some ideas.

If you need more info I might be able to get the databook from my office.

Troy

----------
Posted by: EILAND 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 19:20:02 1993
Subject: Re:  special order springs for dodge shadow & spirit
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7197
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Jeff Deifik writes:

>I have been speaking to Eibach.

I suggest that is your first make.  Eibach isn't very open minded about
springs.  They only make variable rate springs - _no_ constant rate.
Kind of foolish, since that is what most racers use.  The conversations
I have had with them did not leave me very impressed.

>I have their variable rate springs, and I was thinking of getting
>something stiffer, by perhaps 25% in the front and 30% in the rear.

You did not specify what type of vehicle or what the application is,
so it isn't even possible to guess at the basic spring dimensions you
are using.  Generally speaking, you can get just about any rate and
length you need from the suppliers that advertise in _Circle Track_.
In the past, I have had good luck with both Stock Car Products and
Suspension Spring Specialists.  Eibach tends to be quite expensive.


  Brian

---
bkelley@pms706.pms.ford.com
Not speaking for Ford.

----------
Posted by: emory!pms706.pms.ford.com!bkelley (Brian Kelley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 19:29:45 1993
Subject: Re: rebuilding clues sought for the FORD 8.8 traction lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7198
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If we are just talking about replacing the friction plates, then
"rebuilding" the rear in the car is much easier and faster then
swapping the whole rear.

Probably about an even deal if you are swapping gears and know what
you are doing.

-Bob

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 20:42:55 1993
Subject: valve grinding gear
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7199
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Does anyone know of a relatively inexpensive place I can buy stones and
pilots for valve grinding gear?
                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 16 21:22:18 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7200
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) says:
>
>  I have a '67 Cougar that I bought this past summer... it's got a 390 with a
>  top-loader >4-speed, with a Ford 9" in the rear. A great drive train.
>     
>                                        --Erik
>

Erik, I had a '66 Stang and a '67 GT Cougar.  Question for you.  Is your
'67 a GT or an RX7 (unlikely - but the RX7 had a center overhead
console).  Either one of these are fairly rare.  Only the Cougar with
the cat emblem on the side is more rare.  (And meaner.  It ran a 427.  )
If you move away from stock be sure it is what YOU want to do because it
may preclude buyers in the future.  Enjoy the car.  It's not the
best/fastest/etc pony or muscle car, but it is a nice one.  Enjoy.


----------
Posted by: emory!hp6400.desk.hp.com!john_smyth (John Smyth)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 17 15:35:14 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7201
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>> Heck, I've looked at that ad before.  I guess I'll buy one.  

I figure I should a least warn ya - it _is_ a cheap guage.  They use a kind
of mickey mouse spring and C-clamp arrangment to hold the guage to the
wheel hub, which only worked for me on larger ( >=Pinto size ) hubs. The guage 
mounting surface is too big for Toyota Corollas, except when one of the 
lugnuts is removed.  If you hold it by hand, it seems to work ok, though.  
One further note - I found recently that my guage was about half a degree 
off when I calibrated it against a four foot carpenter's level, but it is 
fixable. Just things to beware of - and it is cheaper/easier than building
it yourself. Makes me wish I had spent the extra $$ for the magnetic guage,
though.

 

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 17 15:40:36 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7202
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Larry , I have seen them...it looks like one alternative...I think you 
can vacuum seal it to! 
				--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 17 15:50:05 1993
Subject: Steering upgrade for 57 Ford sedan hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7203
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

My friend is hotrodding a '57 Ford 2 door-sedan and came up with
an interesting question for group.  The stock steering box is
tight, but too many turns lock to lock.  Are there any modern
bolt in replacements, especially power steering units?  He is
considering the rack&pinion unit from a Buick Reatta, but would
something bolt-in.

Any suggestions?

[By the way, he has the original 70k mile 6 cylinder drive train
and the original radio for sale, cheap]


----------
Posted by: emory!LIMS01.LERC.NASA.GOV!TPCLIFF
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 17 16:38:22 1993
Subject: Re:  Building Up Cams, Cranks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7204
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 Yeah, like, I've been wondering too; I've been wanting to add on an 
extra lobe to the intake and exhaust valves to a small engine to try
and make a steam motor out of it. Would 7018 rod be hard enough, or 
no? On a semi-related note, would anything be gained by having a
hard surface put on? Probably gain the opportunity to replace the lifters
oftener since the two surfaces won't ever reach a compromise...

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 17 17:07:39 1993
Subject: Olds V8 Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7205
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> 1.  I am looking into sending my Olds 455 engine out to have the Dave
-> Smith 518 overboar/overstroke rebuild done.  Has anyone had any
-> experience with this kit and what kind of performance gains have they
-> gotten?  Is the extra displacement going to be worth the price or
-> would the money be better spent on other developement?

 How much money are we talking about here?  If it's over, say, $1500,
you'd probably get a better return out of a set of Batten or DRCE heads.
                                                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:08:33 1993
Subject: receiver-dryers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7206
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [Heat and vacuum.  Hook whatever pump you have to it and bake it at
-> 350 degrees or so while you suck on it.  Give it a few hours. JGD]

 Good.  Should I try flushing it with something first, in case the mud
daubers have decided to build a casino in there?
                                                         

[Blow it out with an air hose or soemthing.  IF you really think its crapped
up, why not cut it open and clean it out?  I do that here fairly often
when I replace R-12 with GHG-12 self-sealing which won't tolerate the
moisture in the dessicant.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:18:26 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang or Cougar?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7207
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Erik, I had a '66 Stang and a '67 GT Cougar.  Question for you.  Is
-> your '67 a GT or an RX7 (unlikely - but the RX7 had a center overhead

 That's XR7, not RX7.

 Hey, want to find something even rarer than a Shelby or BOSS?  Look for
a VII-Liter Cougar with "Dan Gurney Special" badging.
                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:28:41 1993
Subject: Building own ignition system - I forgot to add something
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7208
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Something I forgot to add.

When you use a transistor as a switch,  And assuming you want the 
transistor to switch relatively slowly, you want to saturate the transistor


From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:33:41 1993
Subject: Re: Moon Tanks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7209
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <8qy2s!n@dixie.com>, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) says:
>
>I've been seeing a lot of cool customs and hotrods with Moon Tanks up front.
>Are they there just for show, or do they use them as radiator overflow tanks.
>Weren't they originally used as gas tanks on really old dragsters?  Was the
>idea to let the "g" forces of the car launching forward help push the fuel
>back through the lines to the engine?
>Posted by: Tom Carver 

Tom, back in the "REALLY OLD" days, the tanks were use for two primary reasons:
fuel and looks.  When used as fuel tanks, they were under pressure or used with
a fuel pump, quite often electric.  When placed up front, nearest the engine,
you reduced extra plumbing.  They were lighter in weight than a regular tank,
which was important on race cars.  The name came from the old original Moon
Equipment Co. founded by Dean Moon.  And I think you might be right--they
might make good coolant recovery tanks.

Barry L. Van Hook (icblv@asuvm.inre.asu.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!asuacad.bitnet!ICBLV
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:39:07 1993
Subject: Announcing the FORDNATICS mailing list
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7210
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Fordnatics mailing list is an unmoderated forum for discussing high
performance Fords or Ford-powered vehicles, especially modifications and
driving techniques for competition or track use.

Appropriate topics include engines, drivetrains, suspensions, brakes,
tires, safety gear, chassis reinforcement, aerodynamics, relevant
sanctioning body rules, fabrication of parts, et cetera.  Questions from
novices are encouraged.  If you love things that go fast, and you bleed
Ford blue, this is the place for you!

Please don't post about the following topics: car stereos, anti-theft
devices, Slick 50, TV coverage of races, Japan-bashing, gratuitous
Ford-bashing, or (especially) Chevys.

Advertising personal vehicles or parts of interest to other Fordnatics
readers is encouraged, as is notifying readers of noteworthy parts and
services from commercial sources.  But please don't use this list to
promote your business.

Send list mail to:
 fordnatics@freud.arc.nasa.gov or
 fords@freud.arc.nasa.gov

Send add/drop/administrative mail to:
 fordnatics-request@freud.arc.nasa.gov or
 fords-request@freud.arc.nasa.gov

 -- Chuck Fry, list maintainer
    Chucko@freud.arc.nasa.gov
-- 
  Chuck Fry  chucko@freud.arc.nasa.gov  POB 60772, Palo Alto CA 94306
     If America is made safe for children, will its adults be free?
 I speak for myself.  NASA and RECOM Technologies speak for themselves.

----------
Posted by: emory!freud.arc.nasa.gov!chucko (Chuck Fry)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:46:59 1993
Subject: Re: Engine Swap 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7211
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I am not sure about the Chevelles but there were two sizes of fuel lines
for the Novas.  The detent is in the trans, not in the column.  Your
front end will probably ride real hard with the added weight.  But as
was mentioned put it in and if you don't like it then you'll have to
change it.

Larry Stariha, '70 Nova SS, 383/TH350	

----------
Posted by: emory!lasc.lockheed.com!stariha
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 06:56:46 1993
Subject: Re: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7212
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


      So, I figure that the coil inputs should be switched with a 
   transistor to ground when my dwell pulse is high.  And, since I don't 
   want to blow up my nice wire wrapped circuitry, I think that these 
   outputs should be opto-isolated.  My university stores carry _one_ type
   of opto-isolator, the TI MCT2.  It has a transistor output.  I've wired
   it up as follows (pain in the %&$ ASCII drawing follows):

  Dwell pulse        +-----------------+
      -----////------| 1 -+   +----- 6 |
           1 K       |    V   |        |
	      GND ---| 2 -+   |  /-- 5 |--- Coil input
		     |        +-|      |
		     | 3         \-> 4 |--- Coil ground
		     +-----------------+
   where: 
	 PIN 1 = photo-diode input
	 PIN 2 = photo-diode output
	 PIN 3 = N/C
	 PIN 4 = photo-transistor base
	 PIN 5 = photo-transistor collector
	 PIN 6 = photo-transistor emitter

  Therefore, when the Dwell pulse goes 'high', the photo-diode will light, 
  give the photo-diode some base current, and saturate the collector to 
  emitter connection. I bench-tested this circuit with a dummy resistor to
  +15 volts, and the transitor saturated pin 5 down to about 0.4 volts.
  This should switch the Coil Input to the Coil Ground, and I should get
  a spark at my plugs.

    But I don't.

    My thinking is that I need to use a different transistor - perhaps 
  driving the base with the opto-isolator output - but I really don't 
  know where to start looking.  Seriously, I haven't given coils much
  thought over the past few months - I've been more concerned with the
  computer and the intake manifold contstruction.  I don't have much
  'hard' data on coils, and how to drive them.

 ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I could not locate the specification of the part mentioned but have a few questions.

1)what do you want the coils output to do when the input to the photo-diode goes high?

  From your diagram, it would appear that you are inverting the signal. When the input
  to the photo-diode is high, the transistor will be forward biased and will pull the
  collector voltage (12v. ?) toward  gnd. thus creating a low on the input to the
  coil.  Could you be 180 out of sequence?

2)Do you need to tie down the open base pin of the transistor.  (again, I do not have
  a spec on this part)


.02 worth.


Good luck.

  
  

---
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
                           Daniel L. Kunkel
*Cray Research, Inc.
*Engineering Building        Phone: 715 726-8278
*1050 Lowater Road           Fax:   715 726-6715
*Chippewa Falls, WI 54729
                                                   _|_|_|_|  |_|_|_|_| _|
**** Certifiable Classic Chevnatic ****            _|              _|
             (Fin's Forever!)                      _|_|_|_|       _|
                                                         _|     _|
                                                         _|    _|
                                                   _|_|_|      _|
----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!dlk (Daniel Kunkel  {x68278 CF/ENG})
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 07:07:39 1993
Subject: Re: special order springs for dodge shadow & spirit
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7213
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I suggest that is your first make.  Eibach isn't very open minded about
> springs.  They only make variable rate springs - _no_ constant rate.
> Kind of foolish, since that is what most racers use.

> In the past, I have had good luck with both Stock Car Products and
> Suspension Spring Specialists.  Eibach tends to be quite expensive.

I don't believe this is correct.  Eibach makes a rather large line of constant 
rate springs (I have some on my car now).

I have also used Suspension Spring Specialists springs.  If you compare them 
with Eibach, you will find that the Eibach springs have MUCH more travel for the
same rate and free length.  This is the reason I changed to Eibach.

I got the Eibach springs for the same price as the S.S.S. about 2 years ago.  
When you get a price quote that is high, tell them that you can get S.S.S. 
cheaper.  Thats what I did and the Co. matched the price on the Eibach's.

R&D (800) 683-2890

I know someone who just got a set of springs from Hyperco.  They call their 
springs HyperCoils (formerly Rockwell).  They are supposed to be just about the 
best you can get, and they look it. I think they are a large supplier for 
Formula cars.  They are also very cooporative about exchanging springs, for you 
to get what is needed.  I think they are around $80 ea., I can't remember?

One last thing.  There is a company in Baltimore (Kirk-Habicht) who will custom 
wind springs.  You tell them what material, rate, free length,.... and they will
make them.  I talked to them about some constant rate springs and they were 
going to charge something like $80 for a pair!!  I am not sure if they do 
variable rate springs.

Hyperco  (219) 489-8959
Kirk-Habicht (410) 686-9100

Later
Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil


----------
Posted by: "Robert Gallant"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 07:15:25 1993
Subject: Building Up Cams, Cranks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7214
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> What material do you guys use to build up crank journals, cam
-> lobes, etc.?  Welding rods seem too soft to me.

 Plain old cast iron rod, though you have to preheat the crank to make
sure you don't cause cracks from heat distortion.

 I have one crank with major undersize on a rod journal due to bearing
failure.  After talking a local machine shop into grinding it, I bought
a bunch of brazing rod and I'm going to try brazing it up and having
them grind it down.  The braze is stronger than the iron, as long as it
stays stuck.  It may not work, but it's worth a try.
                                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 07:24:59 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-45*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7215
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

World Of Speed & Beauty (La Carrera)  12/18    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (used parts)       12/18    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/18    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/18    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/18    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/18    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
Powerboat Racing                      12/18    3:30-4:30PM      ESPN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)12/18    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             12/18    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
MotorWeek                             12/19    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
IHBA, DRAG BOATS, CHOWCHILLA (T)      12/19    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             12/19    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/19    6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/19    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/19    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Bill Elliott)                12/19    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/19    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/19    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/19   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (La Carrera)  12/19    12:00-12:30PM    TNN
COPPER WORLD CLASSIC, PHOENIX (T)     12/19    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Bill Elliott)                12/19    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
1993 NHRA Year In Review              12/19    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (used parts)       12/19    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/19    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING, SAN FRANCISCO(T)12/19    6:00-7:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/19    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/19    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/19    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
1993 NASCAR Highlights                12/19    9:00-10:30PM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (used parts)       12/19    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/19    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/19   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/20    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (La Carrera)  12/20    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
1993 IndyCar Year In Review           12/20    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 12/20    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/21    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/22    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
WORLD FIGURE 8 ENDURANCE RACE (T)     12/22    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/23    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
APBA, POWERBOAT RACING, FORT MYERS (T)12/23    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Motoworld                             12/23    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (Integra sedan)             12/23    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/24    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
1993 NHRA Year In Review              12/24    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Movie: Winning                        12/24    2:35-5:05AM      TBS
This Week On Pit Road                 12/24    4:00-4:30PM      HTS*

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

Motorsports Hall Of Fame Inductions   12/26    6:00-7:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/02    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/09    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/16    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/23    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/20    TBA              TBA

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 07:36:37 1993
Subject: Steering upgrade for 57 Ford sedan hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7216
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> considering the rack&pinion unit from a Buick Reatta, but would
-> something bolt-in.

 Unless the Reatta rack is *exactly* the correct width at the inner
tierod ends, he'll have bump steer.  If the track width is off, you're
pretty well S.O.L., which is one reason I decided to go to
recirculating ball for the Marauder.

 What you need to find is a box you can swap Pitman arms with, or that
has a Pitman arm that's fairly close.

 [and if anyone knows of a later Saginaw unitized PS box that'll fit
  a '60 Chevy, let me know!]
               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Dec 18 07:45:17 1993
Subject: Re:  Building Up Cams, Cranks
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7217
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> extra lobe to the intake and exhaust valves to a small engine to try
-> and make a steam motor out of it. Would 7018 rod be hard enough, or

 I don't know, but Iskenderian might tell you.  They used to sell
hardfaced cams back in the old days.
                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 07:17:06 1993
Subject: receiver-dryers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7218
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [Blow it out with an air hose or soemthing.  IF you really think its
-> crapped up, why not cut it open and clean it out?

 Are the cases usually welded up, or just soldered?  Heat from the torch
won't screw things up too bad?

[Usually welded.  The dessicant doesn't fill the whole thing, though.
If you cut the old weld out and then stick weld it back, it should be
OK>  JGD]

 Oh, another question.  There seem to be several different sizes of
dryers.  Are there any significant differences between them other than
size and shape?  Would it cause trouble to use a different one, other
than the change in refrigerant capacity?

[Size is the only difference  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 16:40:38 1993
Subject: are these guys (Vericom) nuts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7219
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've always admired my friend's Vericom VC200; it's a cool thing to use
for carb jetting and checking out the real results of engine changes.
But it's a bit cumbersome to use. I thought that I might build a system myself.

I'd heard that the VS2000 is a big improvement in the user interface,
and that you could get a tach/coil input and actually do power curves.
Cool - I just got a little extra cash and thought I'd buy one - I
remembered the price being around $500 from the last time it was discussed here.

So I call up and ask for an info package - it arrives today. $500 gets
you the basic box that does timing, records peak horsepower, so on.
$620 gets the same thing but with nicads and better vibration isolation
- the unit with a tach input is $737.

OK, kinda pricey, but... apparently all this unit does is record peaks,
too. In order to actually get curves, you need the VC2000PC - with some
RAM for data storage (apparently 64K) and an RS232 port. The price?
$1995. If you want tach input, $2695.

Excuse me? RAM costs, what, $100/megabyte these days, and I bet I can
get an RS232 card for less than $50 at Fry's. The graphs they're
showing me are simple stuff - my $99 copy of Quicken is more sophisticated.

I can see that I'll be building my own. (And yes, John, I'll write it up for PE.)

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 16:49:51 1993
Subject: special order springs for dodge shadow & spirit
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7220
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I have been speaking to Eibach. I have their variable rate springs,
-> and I was thinking of getting something stiffer, by perhaps 25% in
-> the front and 30% in the rear.

 In my experience 25% is about the minimum rate change before you notice
any handling differences.  Most of the variable-rate springs don't vary
enough to help much, and can cause a peculiar feel during transients if
you autocross.
       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 16:59:39 1993
Subject: Re: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7221
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>   I'm developing a 4 cyl fuel inj system, and I think I have figured out
>   how to  'drive' everything, except for the spark coils.  By reading a 
>   36 toothed wheel, minus one tooth, my system can output a specified 
>   'dwell' pulse at a specified crank angle - but I can't figure out how
>   to drive the coils! I'm planning on using the 'wasted' spark system.
>   My advisor will kill me if this engine isn't running on the dyno before
>   Christmas!

     UPDATE:  As most of you pointed out, the opto-isolator can't possibly
  flow enough current for a spark coil.  I was under the (mistaken) 
  impression that the Ford coils I'm using had a 'driver' built in - I
  assumed only low-level signals were required.
     A fellow netter has clued me in on Motorola's MJ10012 power transistor,
  which has a 10 A, 400 V capacity. I'll be zener clamping to 300 volts.
  I should have the trans. in my hands, and wired up, by Monday. I'll update
  after I get my engine to start.

    PS: The night of my original post, a friend here at school (equally as
  clueless about coils) recommended I go to Radio Shack and get some 'power'
  transistors. (It was the only place open that night).  I got some with 3 A
  capacity, wired them up in a Darlington pair with my opto-isolator photo-
  transistor, and actually got spark!  After cranking for a minute or so 
  (on and off), I was debugging something else when I hear my friend yell
  "Fire! Fire!".  One of the transistors was glowing bright red (!), and smoking
  very heavily. My circuitry looked like a gate into hell! (No wait, that's
  grad school)  I now have a giant black spot where a base and emitter used
  to be.  Thank god I grounded the transistors separately - nothing else was
  affected.  Does anyone know if Windex cleans smoke damage off of wire wrap?

    Thanks to everyone who responded to my post...

-- 
|        Peter J Nelson        |       "I was supposed to put it        |
|  pjnelson@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu   |            in a container?"            | 
| University of Illinois @ U/C |               - Beavis                 | 
|    Mechanical Engineering    | _Beavis_and_Butthead_ "The Sperm Bank" |

----------
Posted by: emory!uxa.cso.uiuc.edu!pjnelson (Peter J Nelson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 17:09:10 1993
Subject: Re: HELP! How can I spark coils electronically? 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7222
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello Peter,

    I would be _very_ interested in what you've done so far. Is there
anyway that you could provide some insight into what you used to 
drive the injectors? What about the computer? And, what did you
use (or, how did you find out) about the pulse width maps and timing
maps? Are you designing around better power/fuel economy/etc.?
Any information would be _greatly_ appreciated. I'm looking into 
doing the same thing, but I want to use a Ford Mustang with the V-8
motor; I want a racing fuel injection system. Thanks!

				- David (shorty@helios.nevada.edu)

----------
Posted by: emory!nevada.edu!shorty
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 17:13:32 1993
Subject: Copper vs. Steel?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7223
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


    One of my friends is putting together a Olds 350, and he wanted me
to ask about the head gaskets.    Seems the original, never-torn-down
1972 350 had head gaskets that were made from stamped copper shim.   

    In his rebuild kit, the more modern (common, that is) composition
type head gaskets were included.   We went to the parts house and
asked for the copper gaskets, and they looked at us as if it was
something that never existed, even with the old ones in hand.   They
did, however, have shim head gaskets made out of steel.

  Questions:

    1.  What is the compression loss/gain from using the different
 	types of head gaskets?

    2.  If it's worth getting the thinner, metal gaskets, can we use
	the steel gaskets, or do we have to find copper, or can we
 	re-use the OEM gaskets.   8^)

 BTW, the motor's not a race motor.  It's using a 224/224 @ .050 cam,
headers and a Q-jet.    Stock 8.5:1 compression.   It's going in a 70
Cutlass S....


                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 21:54:59 1993
Subject: Copper vs. Steel?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7224
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> One of my friends is putting together a Olds 350, and he wanted me to
-> ask about the head gaskets.    Seems the original, never-torn-down
-> 1972 350 had head gaskets that were made from stamped copper shim.

 Are there any markings on those, Bob?  If they're Detroit Gasket
they'll have a stylized "DG" somewhere.  I don't remember how Fel-Pro
marks theirs.  Maybe a part number too?

 Steel shim was common on GM engines of the era, but I've never
encountered a copper gasket.


-> 1.  What is the compression loss/gain from using the different
-> types of head gaskets?

 Negligible, considering it's a street motor.  However, if the original
gasket is *really* copper and not just copper plated steel, and you
didn't tear it up getting it off, it's reuseable.  That's one reason why
people pay premium bucks for copper gaskets.
                                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Dec 19 22:03:55 1993
Subject: VIN numbers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7225
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi. I was wondering what is the best way to "run the numbers" on my '67
Cougar. Can I do it myself, or do I have to have to have a service do it for
me? I'd like to know what the code means (color, place of manufacture,
options, etc...).   Thanks!

					--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 03:10:45 1993
Subject: Re: receiver-dryers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7226
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In a previous article, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) says:

>
> I'm trying to replace the A/C on my wife's car.  The system has been
>open for years so the books say it needs a new receiver/dryer.  Since
>I'm poor and the part is expensive, I was wondering if there was any way
>to recondition the dryer.  What's in there, anyway?  I obviously can't
>toss it in the microwave like those silica gel packets, but can I pull a
>vacuum on it or something?
>                                                                                [Heat and vacuum.  Hook whatever pump you have to it and bake it at 

If it has been open for " years " I'll bet you need more than the
receiver-dryer.  Most are not servicable, although there are a few
models that are.  At best even after flushing the entire system, you are
likely going to have problems.  In Canada, effective Jan/01/94 it is
ILLEGAL for anyone to touch an A/C system containing R12 refrigerant
without an A/C lisence.  Fines are out of this world.  ( the OZONE,
remember ) Probably the best thing to do is roll down the window.

-- 
al219@freenet.carleton.ca             |  THE MORE YOU LEARN,
Glen Larche                           |  THE BETTER YOUR LUCK
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.              |

----------
Posted by: emory!FreeNet.Carleton.CA!al219 (GLen Larche)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 04:41:22 1993
Subject: Re: Copper vs. Steel? 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7227
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>-> 1972 350 had head gaskets that were made from stamped copper shim.

> Are there any markings on those, Bob?  

     Nope, but I also have to correct myself on the gasket material.
It would appear to be some form of coated steel, since there's a few
rust spots on them where they covered water passages.    
      
>-> 1.  What is the compression loss/gain from using the different
>-> types of head gaskets?

> Negligible, considering it's a street motor.  

    What's negligible?  ;^)  Are we talking about going from 9:1 to
8:1, or from 8.5:1 to 8.4:1?
 
    Reason I ask is that with Olds 350's, it's either 8.5:1 or over
10:1...  He _wanted_ 9:1, but that's only achieveable with expensive
pistons. 

    I had a thought on the 9:1 issue:

    8.5:1 pistons have a 18.63cc dish;  10:1 pistons have a 5.60cc
dish.   What would happen if I was to use the thicker head gaskets,
and do a little grinding on the chamber, so that I could gain about
6cc in the combustion chamber?  Would that get me in the 9:1 realm?

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:15:02 1993
Subject: Mopar Joke (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7228
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> From: Christopher Hoover 
> 
> 
> [ From rec.humor.funny ]
> 
>     Heard from a co-worker:
> 
>     I understand Lee Iacocca has been consulted on the development of Bill
>     Clinton's new Presidential limousine: the Dodge Drafter.
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:24:18 1993
Subject: Re: are these guys (Vericom) nuts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7229
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have one of the old VC200.  When you have tried out the new VC2000,
would you mind dropping a few impressions on it to the list (or me if
you don't think the list's interested).  It would be interesting to know
the differences between the units.

Did you also experience a high horsepower estimate on the old VC200?  I
tried it on a few friends cars (all stock, so we knew the HP numbers).
On stick-shifts the VC200 estimate was within a few HP from the factory
engine rating, and thus to high as it should have given us the rear
wheel power which is ~10% lower.  On automatics it seemes to be fooled
be a hard 1-2 shift and interprit (sp?) it as more power.  On a old
volvo automatic that had 101 HP in 1977 (and probably no more than 90
when my friend owned it, it was a clunker) the VC200 promptly claimed
105 rear wheel HP.

On my Camaro the VC200 has given me everything between 260 and 320 HP...

Is the new VC2000 more accurate? 

Markus  

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:35:00 1993
Subject: Re: VIN numbers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7230
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Erik -

Give me a day to get my book from home; I have the complete list in there - if
some other netter doesn't beat me to it....

Bundy

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Bundy Charles Wist                   wist@sde.mdso.vf.ge.com
523 Susan Dr                         bcw106@psugv.psu.edu
King of Prussia, PA 19406            (215) 265-7060
"What's great for a snack and fits on your back?  It's LOG LOG LOG!"
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

----------
Posted by: emory!sde.mdso.vf.ge.com!wist (Call me Al)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:44:20 1993
Subject: Scat V4
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7231
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  Anybody have any experience/anecdotes/kudos/warnings about the Scat
V4?  This is the puppy that supposedly allows you to use a Chevy small
block valvetrain, etc.

  Reason I ask?  My Dad is thinking about building one for a midget.
My total knowledge about the Scat is directly from a short Circle
Track article, not much though it piqued my interest.

  Ron "Either That, Or Take The Sawzall To The 350" Rader

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:49:28 1993
Subject: Re: receiver-dryers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7232
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> If it has been open for " years " I'll bet you need more than the
-> receiver-dryer.

 It won't hurt to try.  The compressor has lived in a plastic bag in the
shed since 1989, I doubt there's anything wrong with it.  The two worst
cases are corrosion or bugs inside the car's lines.


-> likely going to have problems.  In Canada, effective Jan/01/94 it is
-> ILLEGAL for anyone to touch an A/C system containing R12 refrigerant
-> without an A/C lisence.  Fines are out of this world.  ( the OZONE,

 I'm not in Canada, and I don't care anyway.    If I can ever find
a source for iso-butane I'll be recharging with George Goble's
propane-butane mix, not R12.  I've looked for iso-butane in four states
now without success, and although my local chemical supply house would
be wrigglingly happy to sell me hundred pound lots of the stuff, I need
less than a pound.
                                                                                 
[GAZ brand camp stove fuel.  You gotta read the label and get the high
altitude stuff LABELED as isobutane.  If you really can't find any,
drop me a line and I'll send you some.  ('specially if you send me
a new vendors list )   I may be on the trail of another 
convenient source.  Badger air brush canned air.  The vapor pressure
is correct.  I'm going to send a can off to GHG to get 'em to check
it on their gas chromatograph and we'll know for sure.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:54:18 1993
Subject: Re: Copper vs. Steel?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7233
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> What's negligible?  ;^)  Are we talking about going from 9:1 to 8:1,
-> or from 8.5:1 to 8.4:1?

 Generally compression differences are on the order of 0.1:1.  You need
to whip out your caliper and measure the old gasket and new gasket,
guessing at the compressed thicknesses.  Then your figure the volume of
the gasket in cc by good old

 BORE * BORE * .7854 * STROKE * NUMCYL * 16.39

 then subtract the old gasket volume from the new gasket volume, and add
the remainder to the (very nominal, supposed) chamber volume.

 As you can see, there's a lot of room for slack here.


-> 8.5:1 pistons have a 18.63cc dish;  10:1 pistons have a 5.60cc
-> dish.   What would happen if I was to use the thicker head gaskets,

 You can figure the volume of the dish the same way.
                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Dec 20 16:59:12 1993
Subject: Re: are these guys (Vericom) nuts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7234
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


|> So I call up and ask for an info package - it arrives today. $500 gets
|> you the basic box that does timing, records peak horsepower, so on.
|> $620 gets the same thing but with nicads and better vibration isolation
|> - the unit with a tach input is $737.
|> 
|> OK, kinda pricey, but... apparently all this unit does is record peaks,
|> too. In order to actually get curves, you need the VC2000PC - with some
|> RAM for data storage (apparently 64K) and an RS232 port. The price?
|> $1995. If you want tach input, $2695.
|> 
|> Excuse me? RAM costs, what, $100/megabyte these days, and I bet I can
|> get an RS232 card for less than $50 at Fry's. The graphs they're
|> showing me are simple stuff - my $99 copy of Quicken is more sophisticated.
|> 
|> I can see that I'll be building my own. (And yes, John, I'll write it up for PE.)
|> 
|> ----------
|> Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 

Yep, 

I nearly fell over myself when I recieved the price list a year or so
ago.  Its a very useful device and has saved many hour of trial and error
testing. But, $2000 buys a lot of tools/parts.  8^)

Regards,

EricY

----------
Posted by: (EricY)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 17:43:17 1993
Subject: Re: VIN numbers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7235
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


: Hi. I was wondering what is the best way to "run the numbers" on my '67
: Cougar. Can I do it myself, or do I have to have to have a service do it for
: me? I'd like to know what the code means (color, place of manufacture,
: options, etc...).   Thanks!

The best place I have found is in the Matching Numbers series of books 
put out by the people of Cars & Parts magazine.  You would want 
"American Car ID Numbers of the '60s".  This has for all makes of
American cars.  If you like, I could send you an address to get a hold
of them.  The book costs about $20.  Keep in mind that there are some
errors, but it is an all-around good source.

--
Derek H. Thille --> dht260@dvinci.usask.ca	1966 Buick Wildcat
Communications Systems Research Group		1993 Yamaha XT350
University of Saskatchewan			DoD # 1115
Saskatoon, SK, Canada		

"Taste death; live life" -- Sean Gregory Sullivan as Suicide in Ski Patrol

----------
Posted by: emory!engr.usask.ca!Derek_H_Thille (Derek H Thille)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 17:52:03 1993
Subject: Re: Olds V8 Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7236
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

->> 1.  I am looking into sending my Olds 455 engine out to have the Dave
->> Smith 518 overboar/overstroke rebuild done.  Has anyone had any
->> experience with this kit and what kind of performance gains have they
->> gotten?  Is the extra displacement going to be worth the price or
->> would the money be better spent on other developement?
>
> How much money are we talking about here?  If it's over, say, $1500,
>you'd probably get a better return out of a set of Batten or DRCE heads.

I have gotten an estimate of around $4000 for the entire kit and having them do
the work out in CA (this includes a pretty hefty fee for freight).  This I
believe also includes a choice of heads and intake manifolds.  Where can one 
check out Batten and/or DRCE heads?  I have seen Batten in D. Smith's catalog, 
but not the DRCE?  Anyone have any tech info on them?

Thanks.

SJRD

----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 18:01:22 1993
Subject: Re: are these guys (Vericom) nuts?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7237
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|> I have one of the old VC200.  When you have tried out the new VC2000,
|> would you mind dropping a few impressions on it to the list (or me if
|> you don't think the list's interested).  It would be interesting to know
|> the differences between the units.
|> 
|> Did you also experience a high horsepower estimate on the old VC200?  I
|> tried it on a few friends cars (all stock, so we knew the HP numbers).
|> On stick-shifts the VC200 estimate was within a few HP from the factory
|> engine rating, and thus to high as it should have given us the rear
|> wheel power which is ~10% lower.  On automatics it seemes to be fooled
|> be a hard 1-2 shift and interprit (sp?) it as more power.  On a old
|> volvo automatic that had 101 HP in 1977 (and probably no more than 90
|> when my friend owned it, it was a clunker) the VC200 promptly claimed
|> 105 rear wheel HP.
|> 
|> On my Camaro the VC200 has given me everything between 260 and 320 HP...
|> 
|> Is the new VC2000 more accurate? 
|> 
|> Markus  
|> 
|> ----------
|> Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)


I borrowed a friend's VC200 before I purchased a VC2000.  The 2000
sampling rate is ten times that of the 200. The VC 2000 calculates
100 times per second vs the VC200's 10 times per second.

The VC2000 comes with built software (Its got a catchy name that 
I cant remember now)   8^)  that allows you to capture like 
25 peices of descrete data on a single run.
 
time   speed(mph/kph)   distance    G force
---------------------------------------------
 1       2               1/4 mi        3
 4       5               1/8 mi        6
 7       8               330 ft        9
 10      11               60 ft        12
 13      14               30 ft        15
 16      17               15 ft        18
 19      60 mph          (20)           
 21      30 mph          (22)


mph @ Pk G       distance @ pk G     Pk G
---------------------------------------------
   23                 24               25


If you opt for the tach option it will collect a total of 44? pcs of data.
And, Yes the VC2000 can be fooled by hard shifting automatics on the
1-2 shift.  But, since it does everything based on G-forces its expected.

You can get around this using the programed mode to record the actual
g force, mph, & time just prior to the 1-2 shift and just after (since
you know when it will occur)  This gives two data points on either side
of the spike.

As far as times go it proves to be *very* accurate and is always on the
pessimistic side (tends to be .2 to .25 seconds slower than track timers)
this is due to the rollout time that track timers dont include.
Mph figures however are dead on track.

Great tool (and toy)

$0.02
EricY
 

----------
Posted by: (EricY)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 18:13:01 1993
Subject: Re:  Copper vs. Steel?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7238
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 There do exist copper head gaskets; Poston has them for Buicks, and I
reckon somebody like Mondello ought to have them for Olds. Try the 
magnet test and be sure they're not just iron-stained. 

 The second time won't seal quite as nicely since the copper will have
work-hardened somewhat; however, they'll still be better than steel 
shim in that respect and they won't rust out on you if you're naughty 
and neglectful of your antifreeze/anticorrosion maintenance.

 People reuse copper motorcycle gaskets by reheating them to red and then
dropping them in cold water to get them dead soft again; might be a trick
to get something as big as a head gasket uniformly hot though.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 18:21:54 1993
Subject: Scat V4
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7239
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Anybody have any experience/anecdotes/kudos/warnings about the Scat
-> V4?  This is the puppy that supposedly allows you to use a Chevy
-> small block valvetrain, etc.

 I've seen a couple of brief articles on it, but nothing in detail.

 Personally I'd go for one of the inline four cylinder blocks that takes
a standard Chevy head.  You could use any head you wanted, including the
Brodix/Buick even-port jobs, instead of being stuck with the V4 heads.
               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 18:38:35 1993
Subject: AC again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7241
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Right now I'm working on getting the stuff together to recharge the AC
in my wife's RX7 with GHG.  Down the road I'll be adding AC to the
Marauder.  I hadn't really thought much about the hoses for that, but a
thread on refrigerant leakage over in r.a.t. got me wondering - is there
any reason not to run hard lines from the compressor back to the back of
the engine, then short sections of Teflon-lined braided steel flexline
to the firewall?  It'd *look* nicer than nasty rubber hoses, anyway.
                                                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 18:42:38 1993
Subject: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7242
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Crank shops use Mallory metal for adding mass to counterweights.  Best
as I can tell, Mallory metal is a tungsten alloy, and rather expensive.

 I read somewhere that depleted uranium is used for control surface
counterweights in some aircraft (seems rather bizarre to me) and as
jacketing for some AP cannon shells.  These applications imply depleted
uranium is available in commercial quantities.  If true, would it be a
suitable replacement for tungsten in crank counterweights?  Can just any
schmuck (like me) buy it?  Where?  Machining hazards?  Would the AEC
knock my house down with a tank?
                                                                                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 21 18:47:33 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7243
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	Racers Whoresale (1-800-886-race) sales a caster camber gauge made
by Autopro for 40$.  In the picture there are two little posts that touch
the wheel near the rim not the hub.  It says that it measures +or- 7
degree's in 1/8 degree increments.  I haven't seen it so use your own
judgement.  I can't tell from th epicture but I think it uses a buble
lever. I've seen some that just used a plumb line.  BTW don't waste the
money on a Hit man Alignment system.  You can do a better job with string.

 

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 11:48:15 1993
Subject: Mallory metal, 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7244
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I don't know what Mallory metal is, but I bet I know why they use Tungsten or
Uranium as counterweight material:  They are both super heavy.  
	Tungsten = 19.3 g/cm^3
	Uranium  = 19.0 g/cm^3
	Gold     = 19.3 g/cm^3

Much heavier than Lead which equals only 11.3 g/cm^3.

	There's a few rare elements heavier than Gold and Tungsten:
	Platinum  =21.5 g/cm^3
	Rhenium =  20.5 g/cm^3

So, I guess when the space available for counterweights is extremely limited,
you're stuck with expensive metals and alloys that probably contain Tungsten.
Lead is only a little more than half the density of Tungsten, and it's about
ten times weaker.

Copper at 8.9 g/cm^3 is a little heavier than steel (iron is 7.9 g/cm^3)

Just some useless info you might find slightly interesting.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 11:58:33 1993
Subject: vin nums for Cougar 67-73
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7245
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> Bundy, thanks  for the help. I'd appreciate that VIN nnumber info.  Someone
already told me about some VIN number info, but that was for a Mustang. If you
have the codings specifically for a Cougar, I'd appreciate it!
>                                       --Erik
>

Here is the Vehicle Certification Label info for the Cougar -- have fun!
(should be accurate, but there could be typos...)


*******************
1967-1969 Cougar
*******************
VEH ID X X XX X XXXXXX
index (far left = 1)
1) Model Year
2) Assembly Plant
3-4) Body Serial Code
5) Engine Code
6-11) Consecutive Unit Number

BODY XXX
       (see below)

COLOR X
       (too many to list)

TRIM XX
       (too many to list)

DATE XXX
       Month         First year           Second year
       Jan           A                    N
       Feb           B                    P
       Mar           C                    Q
       Apr           D                    R
       May           E                    S
       Jun           F                    T
       Jul           G                    U
       Aug           H                    V
       Sep           J                    W
       Oct           K                    X
       Nov           L                    Y
       Dec           M                    Z

DSO (District or District and special equip code)
       (see below)

AXLE X (A number indicates conventional while a letter indicates
	limited slip)

       Number        Ratio (1967)
       1             3.00:1
       2             2.83:1
       3             3.20:1
       4             3.25:1
       5             3.50:1
       6             2.80:1
       A             3.00:1
       C             3.20:1
       D             3.25:1
       E             3.50:1

       Number        Ratio (1968)
       1             2.75:1
       2             2.79:1
       4             2.83:1
       5             3.00:1
       6             3.20:1
       7             3.25:1
       8             3.50:1
       9             3.10:1
       E             3.00:1
       F             3.20:1
       G             3.25:1
       H             3.50:1


TRANS X
       1==>3 spd man
       2==>Overdrive (1967 only)
       3==>3 spd man (1967 only)
       5==>4 spd man
       W==>C4 automatic
       U==>C6 automatic



*******************
1970 - 1973 Cougar
*******************

VEH ID XXXXXXXXXXX
index (far left = 1)
1) Model Year
2) Assembly Plant
3-4) Body Serial Code
5) Engine Code
6-11) Consecutive Unit Number

BODY XXX
       (see below)

COLOR X
       (too many to list)

TRIM XX
       (too many to list)

AXLE X
       Conventional        Lim Slip              Ratio
       0(1970)                                   2.50:1
       2                   K                     2.75:1
       3                   L(1973)               2.79:1
       4(1970-1972)        M                     2.80:1
       5(1970)                                   2.83:1
       6                   O                     3.00:1
       7(1970)                                   3.10:1
       7(1972)                                   3.18:1
       7(1973)                                   3.40:1
       8(1970)                                   3.20:1
       9                   R                     3.25:1
       A                   S                     3.50:1
       B                                         3.07:1
       C(1970)                                   3.08:1
       F(1970)             X                     2.33:1
       G(1972-1973)                              3.55:1
       H(1972)                                   3.78:1
			   V                     3.91:1
			   W(1970)               4.30:1
			   Y(1971)               4.11:1

TRANS X
       1==>3-spd man
       5==>4-sp man (wide ratio)
       E==>4-sp man (1972-1973)
       6==>4-sp man (close ratio)
       V==>semi-auto stick shift
       W==>automatic (C4)
       U==>automatic (C6)
       X==>automatic (FMX)
       Z==>automatic (C6 special)

DSO (District/special equip.)
       (see below)


*******************
DSO
*******************

       11==>Boston                 33==>Cleveland
       15==>New York               34==>Detroit
       16==>Philadelphia           41==>Chicago
       17==>Washington             42==>St. Louis
       21==>Atlanta                46==>Twin Cities
       22==>Dallas                 51==>Denver
       23==>Jacksonville           52==>Los Angeles
       26==>Memphis                53==>Oakland
       31==>Buffalo                54==>Seattle
       32==>Cincinnati             84==>Home Office Reserve
				   90==>Export

*******************
Model Year
*******************

       7==>1967
       8==>1968
       9==>1969
       0==>1970
       1==>1971
       2==>1972
       3==>1973

*******************
Assembly Plant
*******************

       A==>Atlanta                 L==>Michigan Truck
       B==>Oakville (Canada)       N==>Norfolk
       C==>Ontario Truck           P==>Twin Cities
       D==>Dallas                  R==>San Jose
       E==>Mahwah                  S==>Pilot Plant (67-69) Allen Park (70-73)
       F==>Dearborn                T==>Metuchen
       G==>Chicago                 U==>Louisville
       H==>Lorain                  W==>Wayne
       J==>Los Angeles             X==>St. Thomas
       K==>Kansas City             Y==>Wixom
				   Z==>St. Louis

*******************
Body Codes
*******************

       Body Serial Code  Body Style Code
       91                65A               2-door hardtop bucket seat
       91                65C               2-door hardtop bench seat
       91                65D               2-door hardtop bucket seat
       91                65B               2-door hardtop bench seat luxury
       92                76A               Convertable bucket seat
       92                76D               Convertable bucket seat
       93                65B               2-door hardtop XR-7 bucket seat
       93                65F               2-door hardtop XR-7 bucket seat
       94                76B               Convertable XR-7 bucket seat
       94                76F               Convertable XR-7 bucket seat


*******************
Engine Codes
*******************

Engine Codes (1967)
       C==>289-2V                  3==>289-2V Low Comp
       A==>289-4V Premium Fuel     K==>289-4V Hi-Perf.
       Y==>390-2V                  H==>390-2V
       S==>390-4V                  W==>427-4V Hi-Perf
       R==>427-8V Hi-Perf.

Engine Codes (1968)
       C==>289-2V                  F==>302-2V
       6==>302-2V low comp         J==>302-4V
       Y==>390-2V                  X==>290-2V Premium Fuel
       S==>390-4V GT               W==>427-4V Hi-Perf

Engine Codes (1969)
       F==>302-2V                  6==>302-2V low comp
       H==>351-2V                  M==>351-4V
       S==>390-4V                  Q==>428-4V Cobrajet
       R==>428-4V Cobrajet Ram Air

Engine Codes (1970)
       F==>302-2V                  R==>428-4V CJ Ram Air
       6==>302-2V low comp         P==>428-4V Police Premium Fuel
       G==>302-4V Boss             K==>429-2V
       H==>351-2V                  N==>429-4V
       M==>351-4V                  C==>429-4V CobraJet
       Y==>390-2V Regular          Z==>429-4V HO
       Q==>428-4V Cobrajet         J==>429-4V CobraJet Ram Air

Engine Codes (1971)
       F==>302-2V                  S==>400-2V
       6==>302-2V low comp         K==>429-2V
       G==>302-4V Boss             N==>429-4V
       H==>351-2V                  C==>429-4V CobraJet
       M==>351-4V                  J==>429-4V CobraJet Ram Air
       Q==>351-4V GT               P==>429-4V Police
       Y==>390-2V

Engine Codes (1972)
       F==>302-2V                  R==>351-4V HO
       6==>302-2V low comp         S==>400-2V
       H==>351-2V                  N==>429-4V
       Q==>351-4V                  P==>429-4V Police

Engine Codes (1973)
       F==>302-2V                  H==>351-2V
       N==>429-4V                  Q==>351-4V Cobrajet
       S==>400-2V








-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
Bundy Charles Wist                   wist@sde.mdso.vf.ge.com
523 Susan Dr                         bcw106@psugv.psu.edu
King of Prussia, PA 19406            
"You bloated sack of protoplasm! You can't even wheez by yourself" - R. Hoek
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

----------
Posted by: emory!sde.mdso.vf.ge.com!wist (Call me Al)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:10:21 1993
Subject: Re: are these guys (Vericom) nuts? 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7246
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	The VC2000 comes with built software (Its got a catchy name that 
	I cant remember now)   8^)  that allows you to capture like 
	25 peices of descrete data on a single run.

Hmm. Does the base unit (i.e., not the PC-based) VC2000 collect all
those points of data? I'm not doing quarter mile work - what I really
want is power curves for carb jetting and engine development. Maybe
I'll go read the data sheet again and see if I can figure out that it's
useful after all.

I still think I'll build my own g force/time/rpm logger, though.

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:17:57 1993
Subject: Re: VIN numbers
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7247
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Derek, thanks.  I would appreciate the address for the VIN code number.

					--Erik

----------
Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:22:30 1993
Subject: Re: receiver-dryers 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7248
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>-> convenient source.  Badger air brush canned air.  The vapor pressure

> Naaaaw.  For indoor use?  I know they probably have "use only in
>properly ventilated area" all over it, but surely it wouldn't be butane?

     Last I remember (about 4 years ago...), the "pressure cans" for
little hobby air brushes _WERE_ plain old Freon.   If it was R-12, I
don't know, but it might be worth investigating.    I've still got
about 10 cans lying around.   I'll have to try charging the ol' winter
rat with it, and see what happens...

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: emory!mailbox.syr.edu!ravalent
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:26:54 1993
Subject: timing to the max
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7249
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

greetings:
  i have some questions for the collective net.wisdom here assembled.
i am wondering under what conditions would one want *less* than the
maximum timing (where maximum timing is defined to be about 1 degree
less advance than onset of detonation) ?  at idle?
  under acceleration?                     under heavy load?
  with turbo/blower/supercharger boost?   when the air is cold/hot?
  in thin air (barometric or altitude)?   when engine is cold?
  when the engine is hot? [1]
 
    [1] i seem to recall that part of diagnosing a 'too hot' engine
  was retard the timing some and see if that cooled the car down.
  from this, i infer that there might have to be an engine
  temperature gage in the loop to help retard the timing to prevent
  overheating (coolant temp, head temp or exhaust temp?).  any idea
  how much retard is needed to cool the engine?  any ideas what the
  temp vs advance vs power tradeoffs are? (ie is there a tradeoff
  between power & temp, or is the power curve flat (vs advance) for
  the last few degrees before detonation?)
 
  this is the preliminary data-gathering/feasibility-study stage for
a possible modification to tim drury's electronic ignition system from
john's performance engineering magazine (issues 2 & 3).  the basic
thought was to augment the system with a knock sensor, and calculate
which cylinder was knocking based on time delay from crank pulse and
rpm (which in turn is a time interval since the last crank trigger...).
this info would be used to id the pinging cylinder and retard it by (i
dunno, 5 degrees), and then slowly increase the timing until it pinged
again. (help! stop me before i ping again! :)  a cylinder that was
pinging excessively would have it's base max advance altered to match
it's new ping-ceiling.  i'd imagine the engine should periodically check
each cylinder for an expanded ping-ceiling (perhaps every minute or
five?).  the presumption is that one could gain a fair bit of power by
pushing each cylinder to the limit, instead of limiting the whole of
the engine to the lowest common denominator.
 
let me know what you think...
kc

ps - john, is there an eta for p.e.t. #3?  also is the subscription
     still $32.95?  i'll be sending that check rsn... :(   :)

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:32:28 1993
Subject: Re: pressure sensors (BOOST)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7250
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>> Anyone have a source for pressure sensors?  I'm looking for something
>> to measure manifold pressure (including BOOST), say up to about 20psi.
>> 
>> [The most common sensor is the GM MAP sensor.  Rugged and fairly cheap.
>> There are 3 variants.  GM #16017460 is for normally aspirated engines.
>> #16009886 is a one BAR unit (up to 14.7 psi boost). #16036394 is
>> for 2 BAR (up to 29 psi.)
>
>Any suggestions on what junkyard vehicles to look for that might have
>the 2 BAR sensors?  Turbo Gran National/T-Types?
>Any idea of the approximate cost new from a dealer?

a
I didn't have any luck looking for a two BAR unit a cop~^~uple
of years ago, even when I was armed with the part #.  Every GM dealer
wanted an application, and I didn't know one.  I got a one BAR sensor
for a turbo Sunbird for $60 at a Pontiac dealer.  Prices varied
greatly among dealers-}n+H, btw.


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: "Jonathan R. Lusky" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:37:22 1993
Subject: Re: Olds V8 Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7251
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> believe also includes a choice of heads and intake manifolds.  Where
-> can one check out Batten and/or DRCE heads?  I have seen Batten in D.
-> Smith's catalog, but not the DRCE?  Anyone have any tech info on
-> them?

 The DRCE heads are Olds' own racing heads.  Batten sells those too.
You also need to talk to Joe Mondello.  Here are some Olds places from
the handy vendor list on dixie.com:

** Oldsmobile ----------------------------------------------------------

Batten Heads                    Olds heads                      03/86
27554 Wick Road                 DOHC SB & BB Chevy heads
Romulus MI 48174
313-946-9850

Brothers Automotive Products    4-4-2, NOS & repro              08/92
Rt 3, Box 372
St. Joseph MO 64505
816-662-2060

CFE Enterprises                 SB tunnel rams                  03/86
1651 Eastland
Roseville MI 48066
313-773-6310

Dave Smith Olds Perf.           4-bolt main caps                04/92
1838 Wild Turkey Circle         custom intakes
Corona CA 91720                 adj. valvetrain
714-371-2898

Kenne-Bell                      (yes, Olds too)                 08/92
10743 Bell Court
Rancho Cucamonga CA 91730
714-941-6646
714-941-0985 tech

Mondello                        Olds, head porting              03/92
8166 Orion Ave
Van Nuys CA 91406
818-994-6910

Oldsmobile Motorsports          OEM                             03/92
920 Townsend St., MS 1045
Lansing MI 48921
517-885-1651

Prescription Performance        Olds                            03/86
17 Grassy Pond Drive
Smithtown NY 11787
516-543-2519
                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 12:43:06 1993
Subject: Re: AC again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7252
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Right now I'm working on getting the stuff together to recharge the AC
>in my wife's RX7 with GHG.

  DIY mix?  Or are you buying it somewhere?  Please pass the experience
on to hotrod, or to me personally since as you know I'm interested in
this subject.

  Is isobutane REALLY that hard to find?  Don't tell me I'm gonna start
having to hoard the stuff, if I find a source.

>any reason not to run hard lines from the compressor back to the back of
>the engine, then short sections of Teflon-lined braided steel flexline
>to the firewall?

  For what it's worth, I'm thankful that I have flexible rubber lines
to/from my truck's AC compressor.  I have to move the sucker out of the
way all the time for basic work, and it would sure be a pain in the ass
if I had to evacuate the system every time I fooled around with the
exhaust manifold.

  Why not use the braided flexline everywhere?  (Cost, I know).

  Ron

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 22 13:14:25 1993
Subject: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7253
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

   Date: Tue, 21 Dec 93 17:06 EST
   From: gt0035b@prism.gatech.edu

	   Racers Whoresale 
[Freudian typo?]
			    (1-800-886-race) sales a caster camber gauge made
   by Autopro for 40$.

I've used one, and yes, it's based on a bubble level.  You "calibrate"
it by placing it against a (presumably) vertical object and zeroing the
dial, then placing it against the wheel to be measured and counting the
turns til it's centered again.  It works, and it's cheap, but I wouldn't
call it accurate.  

I currently use a SmartLevel, which has great resolution and pretty fair
repeatability, but you're still at the mercy of uneven flooring.

						       BTW don't waste the
   money on a Hit man Alignment system.  You can do a better job with string.

I have a Hit Man, and I'm pretty happy with it.  I can't say I'm as
happy with my racer friends who use the old string-and-jackstands
method.  Both seem to take as much time; I'm willing to bet the Hit Man
is more accurate.
 -- Chuck "I hate paying alignment shops" Fry

		Chuck Fry  POB 60772, Palo Alto CA 94306
	Work: chucko@freud.arc.nasa.gov  Play: chucko@rahul.net
Merry Christmas! Happy Kwaanza! Joyous Solstice! (Belated) Happy Chanukah!
 I speak for myself.  NASA and RECOM Technologies speak for themselves.

----------
Posted by: emory!freud.arc.nasa.gov!chucko (Chuck Fry)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 18:39:18 1993
Subject: Re: AC again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7254
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>
>   Is isobutane REALLY that hard to find?  Don't tell me I'm gonna start
> having to hoard the stuff, if I find a source.
>
 I have a MSR(brand) camp stove that uses isobutane I have not had a problem
finding it at serious camping stores. It costs $3-$4 for  a 12 oz can. Hope
this helps.

John C. Haley



----------
Posted by: Loelle S Poneleit 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 18:44:34 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-46*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7255
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I hope everyone has a great holiday. There isn't a whole lot on tube
these days but remember, only 60 days until Daytona ;-)

Enjoy - Bill

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

APBA, POWERBOAT RACING, FORT MYERS (T)12/23    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Motoworld                             12/23    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (Integra sedan)             12/23    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/24    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
1993 NHRA Year In Review              12/24    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Movie: Winning                        12/24    2:35-5:05AM      TBS
This Week On Pit Road                 12/24    4:00-4:30PM      HTS*

			    MERRY CHRISTMAS!

M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING, SAN FRANCISCO(T)12/25    6:00-7:00AM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty               12/25    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic                    12/25    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/25    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/25    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/25    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/25    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA, WINTERNATIONALS, POMONA (T)     12/25    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek                             12/26    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
1993 IndyCar Year In Review           12/26    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             12/26    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
IHBA DRAG BOATS, PHOENIX (T)          12/26    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/26    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/26    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners                               12/26    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/26    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/26    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/26   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
NASCAR, PHOENIX (T)                   12/26    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Mickey Thompson 1993 Review           12/26    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Winners                               12/26    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic                    12/26    4:30-5:00PM      TNN
BAJA 1000 (T)                         12/26    5:00-6:00PM      TNN
Motorsports Hall Of Fame Inductions(T)12/26    6:00-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              12/26    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      12/26    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           12/26    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      12/26    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              12/26   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               12/27    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty               12/27    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
Movie: Two-Lane Blacktop              12/27    2:00-4:00PM      A&E
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/28    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
Movie: The Crowd Roars                12/28    4:55-6:10AM      TMC
Movie: Two-Lane Blacktop              12/28    9:00-11:00AM     A&E
NHRA, WINSTON FINALS, POMONA (T)      12/28    4:00-5:00PM      HTS*
Classic Cars                          12/28    10:00-11:00PM    DSC
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/29    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
Movie: The Gumball Rally              12/29    1:40-3:55AM      TBS
IHBA DRAG BOATS, BAKERSFIELD (T)      12/29    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/30    12:30-1:00AM     MTV
MotorWeek (Q45 & DeVille)             12/30    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Movie: Smokey And The Bandit          12/31    8:00-10:00PM     WGN

			     HAPPY NEW YEAR!

		  ------------COMING EVENTS---------

HYDROPLANE RACING, HAWAII (T)         01/01    1:30-2:30AM      ESPN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/02    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/09    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/16    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/23    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/20    TBA              TBA

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 18:57:02 1993
Subject: timing to the max
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7256
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

    Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 12:05 EST
    From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)

	...
      this is the preliminary data-gathering/feasibility-study stage for
    a possible modification to tim drury's electronic ignition system from
    john's performance engineering magazine (issues 2 & 3).  

Am I missing something? I've only recieved issues #0 (P.E.M.-Lite) and
#1.  Have 2 & 3 come out?  Or do you mean "to appear in" 2 & 3?

This is exactly the kind of article I'm most looking forward to seeing.

	...
    ps - john, is there an eta for p.e.t. #3?  also is the subscription
	 still $32.95?  i'll be sending that check rsn... :(   :)

Now I'm extra confused.
    ----------
    Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 


  bruce
  miller@cam.nist.gov
  

----------
Posted by: Bruce R. Miller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 19:06:04 1993
Subject: Timing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7257
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If you retard an engine too much it runs hot too.  I mistakenly had an engine
retarded by about 8 degrees and when I started it up, it boiled over the
radiator and the headers got cherry red within a couple minutes.  Pretty
scary.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 19:14:56 1993
Subject: Welder Advice
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7258
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hot Rodders:

I'm posting this in this list because the racefab list is going down
tomorrow through Jan 4th. :-(

I hope somebody can help.


I'm considering buying an HTP brand welder, specifically their MIG
200.  Does anybody out there have an opinion on the quality and
reputation of HTP?  From the catalog, it seems that the welders
are high quality and have good features.

The price on the MIG 200 is $1069.


Thanks,

-Bob






-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 19:24:36 1993
Subject: Re: depleted uranium
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7259
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I read somewhere that depleted uranium is used for control surface
>counterweights in some aircraft (seems rather bizarre to me) and as
>jacketing for some AP cannon shells.  These applications imply depleted
>uranium is available in commercial quantities.  If true, would it be a
>suitable replacement for tungsten in crank counterweights?  Can just any
>schmuck (like me) buy it?  Where?  Machining hazards?  Would the AEC
>knock my house down with a tank?


I don't think that depleted Uranium is available very readily.  For starters,
though depleted it still retains some of it's radiation hazzards.  Also, it is
not very common and probably is all used for weapons.

I have also heard that it is used for counterweights but, I thought only in the
B-1B and B-2 military aircraft.  It could be more though.  

It is also the primary component of the shells fired from the nose cannon of
the A-10 Anti-tank airplane.  They use depleted Uranium as to penetrate the
tank's armor.

SJRD

[ Let's clear this up.  Metallic uranium is a Special Nuclear Material
and as such is licensed by DOE.  It is not hard to get a license for 
small quantities of uranium, though I'm not sure why anyone would.
Uranium is mildly radioactive but not enough to present any radiation
hazard.  Mechanically, it is an odd metal, very heavy, very hard and
very brittle.  It is also pyrophoric which makes its use around any 
heat source problematic.  The major reason the military uses depleted
uranium for weights is they have so much of it laying around as a 
byproduct of the bomb industry.  For them, it is cheaper than tungsten
or other similarly heavy metal.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Sean J Roc D'Arcy 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 19:34:29 1993
Subject: Re: timing to the max
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7260
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 
>  this is the preliminary data-gathering/feasibility-study stage for
>a possible modification to tim drury's electronic ignition system from
>john's performance engineering magazine (issues 2 & 3).

I agree completely :-).  The reason I did not add a knock sensor is because 
the one's I've played with are engine dependant.  To add one is fairly simple. 
If you know the knock frequency of your engine place a bandpass filter between
the sensor and the HC11's A/D port.  Assuming the signal rises in the presents
of knock, have the HC11's program retart the timing if the knock signal goes 
above a threshold voltage (determined experimentally & imperically). 
Retarding is easy on my system, just add a some clock cycles to the ignition 
counter so it fires later.  if knock is still present add some more....

This same idea can be used for traction control.  use some proximity sensors 
at the wheels to determine if they are slipping, if so retard the spark to 
reduce the power.

-tim


----------
Posted by: emory!spbted.gatech.edu!tdrury
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 23 19:43:41 1993
Subject: Vette for sale...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7261
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu




	I am selling my 66 vette project car. It is presently 1/2 complete and
is a rolling chassis. Asking price: $7000.00, which is much less than 1/2 what
i have into it. I planned on running super gas/super comp with this car. I 
have bought what i consider the "best" parts for making this car lightweight 
and reliable, with the ability to run very low 8 second passes. I have 
assembled/installed most of the parts onto the chassis, which is the reason 
i want to sell it whole, as opposed to peicing it out. On top of paying 1/2 
price for all of my parts, you also get over 800 hours (rough guess) of 
assembly. The major parts (chassis, rear end, wheelie bars) were built in
Florida by Racer's Chassis Co. 


I have listed the items i have purchased with the cost. I want to sell this
as a complete package. I can be reached at (508) 460-2001 during the day,
and at (508) 343-8669 during the evenings if you are interested and have 
questions.

-dan a.

ALREADY PURCHASED PARTS, LISTING COST INFORMATION
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CHASSIS:
$2574.00+$150 s&h Welded chassis, motor mount plates installed, 4 link 
		  Installed and complete. Front suspension mounts installed.

FRONT SUSPENSION:
$2171.00+$28.00 s&h Complete Front Suspension Kit (breakout in > below)

>$1819.00	Strange Strut front suspension kit
>$279.00		Wildwood Chrome Rack (pinto rack)
>$45.00		Tie rod kit

REAR SUSPENSION:
$3609.00+$50 s&h Complete Rear End Assembly (breakout in > below)

>$900.00	9" ford severe duty rear-end housing 	Racers chassis co.
>$1379.00	Strange Aluminum Center Section- complete with spool and Gears
>$379.00 	Pair of 35 Spline Strange Axles
>$400.00	Wheelie Bars, 60"long (racers chassis co. Special order)
>$339.00	Avo Double Adjustable Rear Shocks
>$ 77.00	Stud Kit
>$ 60.00	Outer Wheel Bearings
>$ 55.00	Adjustable Shock Mounts
>$ 20.00	Upper Shock Mounts

$554.00		Strange Rear Brake kit 
$ 76.50		Front Brake line kit
$ 76.00		Rear Brake line Kit
$ 40.00		Residual Pressure Valve (pair)
$ 10.00		Bolts for Carrier

$  3.75		Carrier Gasket

BODY PARTS:
$700.00		body (origional 66 vette fiberglass)
$560.00		Doors (aftermarket lightweight fiberglass)
$650.00		one peice nose (aftermarket lightweight fiberglass)
$210.00		Hood (aftermarket lightweight fiberglass)
$~300.00	Guages (tach, oil press, oil temp, water temp, boost)
$~1300.00	tires and rims (back are 15X15 w/33X19.5 mickey thompson's
				front are 15X3.5 w/ goodyear 29X4.5 race tires)
$ 25.00		Shifter T handle w/ lineloc button
$165.00		Kirkley Seat (aluminum)
$ 10.00		Seat Mount (10' length of tubing)

$135.00		F/C Cage
$ 22.00		Driveshaft Loop kit
$ 68.00		Master Cylander
$ 10.00		Master Cyl. Adapter
$204.00		Hurst Quarterstick Shifter with cable
$ 20.00		Shifter mounting plate
$ 20.00		Master Cylander Mount
$ 95.00		Gas and Brake Pedal Kit
$ 89.00		Grant #703 Steering Wheel
$ 49.00		Battery Mount
$ 75.00		Strange Quick Release Steering Hub
$119.00		Steering Column Kit
$ 55.00		Steering knuckle (on rack to column joint)

MOTOR PARTS:
$700.00		Hildeborn Injection set-up
$310.00		Ported Aluminum Cylander Heads
$100.00		Moroso Valve covers
$165.00		Retainers,locks, seals for heads (plus seal instal tool)
$239.00		Roller Camshaft (Comp Cams)
$300.00		Roller Lifters  (comp Cams)
$375.00		Roller Rockers  (comp Cams)
$210.00		Milidon #3190 Super Comp Oil Pan
$565.00		Hooker #2404 Pro-Stock Headers
$100.00		Manley 1.550 Vasco-jet valve springs
$160.00		J&E Pistons (Slightly used-- 3 runs)
________
$17,446.00 to date!!

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 24 14:40:58 1993
Subject: Re: AC again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7262
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> >
> >   Is isobutane REALLY that hard to find?  Don't tell me I'm gonna start
> > having to hoard the stuff, if I find a source.
> >
>  I have a MSR(brand) camp stove that uses isobutane I have not had a problem
> finding it at serious camping stores. It costs $3-$4 for  a 12 oz can. Hope
> this helps.


	You can get the fuel for these stoves mail order from
Campmor (1-800-526-4784).  The only catalog I could find was 3 years old
but there is picture of a persurised can that has ISOBUTANE all over it in
big letters.  They want 2.49$ each for a 10 oz can.

	You could also try REI at 1-800-426-4840 it's not in their catalog
but alot of the stuff in their store isn't. 

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 03:08:39 1993
Subject: Re: timing to the max
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7263
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>    Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1993 12:05 EST
>    From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
     i write :)
>	...
>      this is the preliminary data-gathering/feasibility-study stage for
>    a possible modification to tim drury's electronic ignition system from
>    john's performance engineering magazine (issues 2 & 3).  
 
 someone else writes:
>Am I missing something? I've only recieved issues #0 (P.E.M.-Lite) and
>#1.  Have 2 & 3 come out?  Or do you mean "to appear in" 2 & 3?

i have issues volume1, issue 1 (small size, w/ injector graphics) & an
issue that is labled only as volume 2 (no issue number...) w/ sparkplug
graphics.  these are the mags that i am refering to.  i'm assuming (i
know, a dangerous thing to do...) that number 3 will have part 2 of the
electronic distributerless ignition article (as promised in the second
mag).
>    Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
>  bruce
>  miller@cam.nist.gov
>----------
>Posted by: Bruce R. Miller 

hope that clears things up.

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 03:19:57 1993
Subject: There is a Santa
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7264
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yes folks. There is indeed a Santa !!

Under the tree this year was a Wade blower for the flathead, complete
with manifold, drive and belts.  

OK. I have to admit it. I bought it in April and hadn't found just the
right time to tell the missus. As a tactic, this worked very well. It
would have been 100% if it had been "From Santa to Steve and Sue"
instead of just Steve.
Now I know what to put on the Nitrous system for the Fairlane, next
year. :-)

Steve.

[hey guys, let's see who gave/got the weirdest/neatest gift for Christmas.
I'll wade in with my present to Doreen.  It was a pair of Ametek 2 stage
bypass 1 HP vacuum cleaner blowers, along with the promise to build them
into a baghouse for her sand blaster - and to set the blaster up for her :-)
JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!kcbbs.gen.nz!Steve_Baldwin (Steve Baldwin)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 03:27:15 1993
Subject: Camaro coil springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7265
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I've planned to lower my '75 Camaro this winter to improve handling. As I have	
a LT-type Camaro (no Z28 was available in '75) it sits pretty high. My plan is
to lower it to Z28 height, about 1 1/2". The rear leafsprings were no problem,	
I just added an extra leaf on top. The problem is with the front coil springs.

My idea is to swap in Z28 springs instead of my weak LT-style springs. Well, I
removed my old spring last week and compared it to the Z28 spring. I was surprised
(to put it mildly) to see that the springs are the same uncompressed height, have
the same number of coils and the only difference beeing that the Z-springs are
made of thicker steel. My feeling is that these springs will make the car ride 
_higher_ instead of lower.

This makes me wonder;

1...Am I correct in suspecting the car will not be lowered? I have not installed
    the Z-springs yet.

2...How is the original Z28 lowered by GM? Different spindles, control arms, what?

3...If I'm correct, and the car rides higher than before, what advice do you have
    on cutting the coils? Can I just cut it or do I have to give it away to a
    machine shop?

4...Anyone have some experience with the Z-springs? How much do I cut away in
    order to lower the car, say, 1"?

Thanks for any and all info.

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 16:41:58 1993
Subject: Re: There is a Santa
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7266
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>There is a Santa
[hey guys, let's see who gave/got the weirdest/neatest gift for Christmas.
I'll wade in with my present to Doreen.  It was a pair of Ametek 2 stage
bypass 1 HP vacuum cleaner blowers, along with the promise to build them
into a baghouse for her sand blaster - and to set the blaster up for her :-)
JGD]
----------

Tough to top that, but I did get some amazed stares when I opened some of my
gifts from "Santa".  I got an 18" tall stack of Buick manuals giving the entire
parts listings for the Buick A,B,C, G & X body cars ... *I* was thrilled, since
that gives me all the cross references and production changes for my Grand
National.  However, there were lots of questioning raised eyebrows trying to
understand *why* was so happy....

Or how about the two little wiring harness clips that hold the main harness to
the firewall? ... I've been looking for them for ages and my wife finally found
them (GM doesn't make them any more).  Not exactly your standard "give Dad a
tie" type gifts!  And I couldn't be happier ... isn't that sad?<*Grin*>

Buick GN:"A *BOOST* of Buick Performance...."

Ken Mosher (kmosher@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 16:47:41 1993
Subject: Re: AC again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7267
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> DIY mix?  Or are you buying it somewhere?

 I'm trying to DIY, if I can find the isobutane.


-> Is isobutane REALLY that hard to find?  Don't tell me I'm gonna start
-> having to hoard the stuff, if I find a source.

 If you can get conveniently packaged supply of isobutane, drop a word
here and in r.a.t.  Every time I mention it I get a dozen messages from
people wanting to know if I find any, and I've looked in five states so
far.  Hmm... maybe I ought to just buy a 20 pound bottle of the stuff
and charge up some camp fuel bottles.


-> For what it's worth, I'm thankful that I have flexible rubber lines
-> to/from my truck's AC compressor.  I have to move the sucker out of

 Since I'm building my own bracketry I'll be able to locate the
compressor wherever I want.  I'll need enough flex line to move it all
out of the way, of course.


-> Why not use the braided flexline everywhere?  (Cost, I know).

 Hmm... last I checked, you were only looking at $40 or so worth of
Teflon-lined pressure hose.  Refrigeration line ain't cheap either, so I
bet the price differential isn't that much.  The fittings are what eats
your lunch.
                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 16:52:01 1993
Subject: Re: AC again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7268
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Campmor (1-800-526-4784).  The only catalog I could find was 3 years
-> old but there is picture of a persurised can that has ISOBUTANE all

 Thanks!
                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Dec 28 16:56:18 1993
Subject: Glass polishing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7269
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I'm changing out door glass on my 70 Mustang and would like to polish the
new (used) glass before they go in.  Any ideas on where I can find a glass
polishing kit?  Eastwood has one, but I need it soon.  Any ideas on where
to look or anything of the like?  Thanks.  
(Hope this isn't too far off the charter)
Tom McClendon
gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 29 14:12:47 1993
Subject: Building a 383 SBC
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7270
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I am planning to rebuild a 350 engine to put into my project car.  Since I am
going to be replacing all the internals anyway, I thought it might be
worth considering stroking the engine at the same time.

I would like to get some information about building a 383 Chevy SB.  I know
that this basically entails installing a crank from a 400 CI (along w/
flywheel and harmonic balancer) into a 350 block, but I am looking for
some more specific information like: Which rods to use?, Which pistons,
What's a good cam?, any clearance problems to watch out for?  Other 
potential problem areas?

Any pointers to books or magazine articles that cover this conversion as well
as your responses are appreciated.

BTW, the car is a '71 Datsun 240Z that already has a (stock) 350 installed.



       ________
      /______ /    
            //
        __ //_          Paul Richer
       /__ __/          paulr@lsid.hp.com
         //             Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
        //______
       /_______/

----------
Posted by: Paul A. Richer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 29 21:29:34 1993
Subject: Re: Camaro coil springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7271
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I just added an extra leaf on top.  The problem is with the front coil
>springs.

>My idea is to swap in Z28 springs instead of my weak LT-style springs.
>Well, I >removed my old spring last week and compared it to the Z28
>spring.  I was surprised >(to put it mildly) to see that the springs are
>the same uncompressed height, have >the same number of coils and the
>only difference beeing that the Z-springs are >made of thicker steel.
>My feeling is that these springs will make the car ride >_higher_
>instead of lower.

A big block would lower the front for you.... :^)

--
Derek H. Thille --> dht260@dvinci.usask.ca	1966 Buick Wildcat
Communications Systems Research Group		1993 Yamaha XT350
University of Saskatchewan			DoD # 1115
Saskatoon, SK, Canada		

"Taste death; live life" -- Sean Gregory Sullivan as Suicide in Ski Patrol

----------
Posted by: emory!engr.usask.ca!Derek_H_Thille (Derek H Thille)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Dec 29 21:37:57 1993
Subject: Re: Glass polishing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7272
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

: I'm changing out door glass on my 70 Mustang and would like to polish the
: new (used) glass before they go in.  Any ideas on where I can find a glass
: polishing kit?  Eastwood has one, but I need it soon.  Any ideas on where
: to look or anything of the like?  Thanks.  
: (Hope this isn't too far off the charter)
: Tom McClendon
: gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

Actually, polishing with newspaper is supposed to be a reasonable
substitute.  I have not actually done it, but I have a couple of friends
who swear by it for covering up those tiny scratches.

--
Derek H. Thille --> dht260@dvinci.usask.ca	1966 Buick Wildcat
Communications Systems Research Group		1993 Yamaha XT350
University of Saskatchewan			DoD # 1115
Saskatoon, SK, Canada		

"Taste death; live life" -- Sean Gregory Sullivan as Suicide in Ski Patrol

----------
Posted by: emory!engr.usask.ca!Derek_H_Thille (Derek H Thille)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 30 05:14:42 1993
Subject: Building a 383 SBC
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7273
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> some more specific information like: Which rods to use?, Which
-> pistons, What's a good cam?, any clearance problems to watch out for?

 Most 383s use the 5.56 inch 400 rod.  It's generally agreed that the
350's 5.7 rods are better.  6 inch rods are right out unless you're
willing to fire up the grinder.

 Whether the 5.7 rod will interfere with the cam or block depends on the
actual cam, rod, and block.  There are substantial variations between
blocks, minor variations between rods, and some between cams.  It's real
close.  If you have to do any clearance grinding, it likely won't be
much.

 You should also at least consider simply using a 400.  Despite early
horror stories about the siamesed cylinder bores, reliability doesn't
seem to be a problem.  You'd even save money since you wouldn't have to
have a 400 crank gnawed down to 350 main journal size.  Order the
appropriate pistons (places in the dirt track magazines have them cheap)
to put the 5.7 rods in to build a long-rod 400.
                                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 30 13:43:25 1993
Subject: Camaro springs followup and question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7274
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Thanks for your replies. 

I had some questions on lowering my '75 Camaro. Here's what I got.
The questions are referring to the front springs. I already lowered
the car in the rear by adding an extra leaf.

Q: Is the Z28 lower than the LT/berlinetta/sport-coupe?
A: No. Springs are identical except Z28 has thicker coils, making them stiffer. 
   Z-cars may look lower due to plastic add-ons.

Q: Can I cut the springs myself?
A: Yes. Best is to use a grinding wheel. Don't use a torch. 

Q: How will a cut spring be compared to an uncut?
A: Cutting the spring increases the spring rate, making it stiffer.

Q: How much should I cut in order to lower the car 1"?
A: Only one answer: 1 1/2 turns. Seems pretty much to me. Any other suggestions?

I also got the recommendation to use stock springs but use dropped spindles, and
to use aftermarket lowering springs. Well, since I already got the Z28 springs
I'll give them a try. This leads me to my new question:

The first and last coil on the spring is slightly bent to flatten the spring. 
The top is almost flat. If I cut the bottom of the spring, it's going to be 
less flat.  Will this have any effect? I'm worried the spring will get bent 
under load. 

Markus 


----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 30 14:54:45 1993
Subject: Re: Camaro coil springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7275
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

you can find coil and spring folks who can make custom spring configurations
for your car. you can tell them how high you want the car to sit, and how 
stiff you want the springs. check the yellow pages. they can also advise you
on spring combinations...

or you could change spindles...

sorry, i dont know much about the camaro specifically.


-- 

 Money, sex and war; $100 bucks a gram. Scarring up our arms. New Trans-Am.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

----------
Posted by: emory!TFS.COM!daver (Dave Robison)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Dec 30 15:00:10 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-47*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7276
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

MotorWeek (Q45 & DeVille)             12/30    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Movie: Smokey And The Bandit          12/31    8:00-10:00PM     WGN

			     HAPPY NEW YEAR!

HYDROPLANE RACING, HAWAII (T)         01/01    1:30-2:30AM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (exhaust upgrades) 01/01    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Motorweek                             01/01   11:30AM-12:00PM   WGN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/01    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/01    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/01    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
AMA, DAYTONA 200 (T)                  01/01    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/02    6:00-7:55AM      HBO
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/02    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/02    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (tribute to Alan Kulwicki)    01/02    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
Movie: Drive Like Lightning           01/02   10:00AM-12:00PM   USA
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/02    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/02    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/02   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Classic Cars                          01/02    2:00-3:00PM      DSC
NHRA, WINSTON FINALS, POMONA (T)      01/02    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (tribute to Alan Kulwicki)    01/02    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (exhaust upgrades) 01/02    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/02    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              01/02    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      01/02    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           01/02    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      01/02    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              01/02   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/02   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               01/03    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Nitrous Ntls)01/03    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
This Week On Pit Road                 01/03    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/04    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
THE DAREDEVIL DUEL (Motorcycles) (T)  01/04    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
IHRA, FALL NATIONALS, BRISTOL (T)     01/04    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
THE BAJA 1000, MEXICO (T)             01/04    1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
SCCA, DALLAS GRAND PRIX (T)           01/04    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
BUD TOP FUEL CLASIC, POMONA (T)       01/04    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/04    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
IOGP POWERBOAT RACING, AUGUSTA (T)    01/04    4:30-5:00PM      ESPN
Classic Cars (Beaulieu Autojumble)    01/04    10:00-11:00PM    DSC
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/05    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Classic Cars                          01/05    1:00-2:00AM      DSC
1993 SODA Highlights                  01/05    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Motoworld                             01/05    3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        01/05    3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/05   11:00PM-1:00AM    ENC
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, LAGUNA SECA (T)      01/06    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/06    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/06    7:00-9:00AM      ENC
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/06    3:00-5:00PM      ENC
Motorweek (Roadmaster & Golf III)     01/06    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Movie: The Road Warrior               01/06   11:30PM-1:05AM    ENC
The Great American Race               01/07    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 01/07    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
1993 NASCAR Year In Review            01/07    1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/07    3:00-4:55PM      HBO
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             01/08    4:30-6:30AM      ENC

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/09    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/16    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/23    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, BUSCH CLASH, DAYTONA (?) 02/13    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA 500 (L)          02/20    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (L)           02/20    TBA              TBA
WINSTON CUP, RICHMOND (L)             03/06    TBA              TBA

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (Bill Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 31 06:16:38 1993
Subject: Re: Glass polishing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7277
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have a 64 Chevy Impala Sport Sedan with extensive, what appears to be 
droplets of water, etched into the glass on all windows. These window 
are the kind that have the metal edges and probably expensive and hard 
to find to replace. Do you know of anyway to recondition this glass?

Thanks to any and all suggestions. Sorry if I butted into your thread.

----------
Posted by: "Vance Mason" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 31 06:26:09 1993
Subject: Re: Camaro springs followup and question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7278
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In wiz.hotrod article  you wrote:
> Thanks for your replies. 

> 

>> I'll give them a try. This leads me to my new question:
> 

> The first and last coil on the spring is slightly bent to flatten  
the spring. 

> The top is almost flat. If I cut the bottom of the spring, it's  
going to be 

> less flat.  Will this have any effect? I'm worried the spring will  
get bent 

> under load. 

> 

> Markus 

Markus,

Herb Adams of HSE racing covers this complete with pictures in his  
how to make you firebird handle if you are interested. 


The basic idea here is to cut 3/4 to 1 1/2 coils off and then get out  
the torch. Heat the pigtail end up with the torch. Then using a glove  
quickly turn it over and flatten the hot end against the floor. Next,  
quickly drop the spring in a bucket of cold water, which will quench  
the spring and preserve the elasticity of the spring. I have done  
this several times to Firechickens, GTO's, Camaro's, etc and it has  
always worked just fine. Just be sure on how much you cut off. The  
Z28 springs are pretty good to begin with, and I would cut no more  
than 1/2 to 3/4 to start. Do one side then when you like what you  
have, do the other. 1/2 a coil is equal to approx an 8% - 12%  
increase in stiffness.

	Consider adding subframe connectors, since all the camaro's  
are rattle traps with the separate subframes. That plus a $30.00 set  
of polygraphic subframe bushings will make a huge difference in how  
the car handles as well. Herb's book also covers lifting the front  
eye of the rear spring which increases the antisquat of the car. This  
improves it's ability to brake. It also increases traction! It's a  
simple modification of moving the eye hole of the spring up in the  
spring hanger, and then cutting the top out of the spring holder for  
clearance. Best done with a plasma cutter or a good torch and a  
drill.


Regards,
--
Paul Bleimeyer
Mayo Foundation
Rochester, MN 55905

----------
Posted by: emory!mayo.EDU!bleimeyp (Paul Bleimeyer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 31 06:31:55 1993
Subject: Ford FE Block Stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7279
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Does anyone out there have any experience with using 427/428CJ components on a
390? I'm interested in possibly using the larger heads and crank on my soon to
be rebuilt 390, and would like tospeak to someone who has some experience with
this type of conversion.   Thanks!
					--Erik

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Posted by: Erik Mueller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 31 14:31:42 1993
Subject: Re: Ford FE Block Stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7280
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Dec 31,  1:12am, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: Ford FE Block Stuff
> Does anyone out there have any experience with using 427/428CJ components on a
> 390? I'm interested in possibly using the larger heads and crank on my soon to
> be rebuilt 390, and would like tospeak to someone who has some experience with
> this type of conversion.   Thanks!
> 					--Erik

Erik, I have at least two published Ford Performance Technical books at home
which have a matix and the exact info on which FE parts interchange
specifically.  I recall that the information you are looking for is 
in one or both of these,  I will check them tonight and post it to you. Cheers.
Mike

-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@cyber.net) "Three Deuces and a 4 Speed" 
Insurance Auto Auctions, Spring Valley, California 800-322-8284   
E-MAIL me for Tech Info on Small and Big Block Ford Tri-Power Information! !

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Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Dec 31 15:08:21 1993
Subject: FE's and more...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7281
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Erik

You have a couple of options for looking up the codes on your car.
1. The door tag lists everything you need to know, form original color, 
interior, engine, trans, rearend, and so on... 
2. The serial number on the inner fender well above the wiper reservoir 
should give you the exact numbers. Now remember that the door and fender 
well numbers should match exactly. If not, this means that the door was 
added later by someone for some reason.
The VIN number on the fender well will break down just like the door 
tag. I don't know exactly how Cougars numbers compare to Mustangs, but I 
think Ford use the same type for a few years. The best way to find out 
is go to your local library and look for the
old auto manuals.
Your next choice is to purchase a couple different magazines pertaining 
to Fords. They will many different suppliers of parts for all kinds of 
Fords. i.e. Fabulous Fords or Super Fords.
A couple other items. 67 was the first year for Ford to build the 
Mustang/Cougar chassis with the FE family of motors. This lead to a 
couple of problems:

1. The engine was too heavy for the factory small block rated springs. 
So what would happen was the FIRST big dip you came to would send the 
front tires into the fenders. EEEEK!! Dealerships spent a lot of time 
repainting fenders. It wasn't until mid model year Ford upped the spring 
ratings.

2. I personally think that the Big Blocks were too heavy for Cougars and 
Mustangs chassises to handle. Because they always had too many premature 
suspension problems. But don't listen to me.
THEIR IS NO MISPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT!
3. You had mentioned about rebuilding the engine. 
This is a great time to rebuild the suspension. I would recommended 
going to the urethane bushings on the rebuild. They will save you from a 
lot of headaches later on. Also, rebuilding the suspension
is much easier to do while the engine is out. Also check for stress 
cracks all around the spring and a-arm mounting areas.
(trust me I've done it both ways) My recommendations for engine 
rebuilding is to keep it all stock.
If it is really an original engine then it is probably a GT model car. 
Meaning 335 hp. factory rated. Lots of power and torque.
My brother brought new a 68 Fairlane GT with the 390 4spd
option. He never changed a thing and it ran low 14's for 12 years. 
Remember the Fairlane weighed 600-800 pounds more 
than a Cougar.

When rebuilding the engine I would try to look 
for an aluminum manifold "I know it's not stock but it would shave about 
100 pounds of the weight of the car which will save 
you from rebuilding the suspension sooner than planned." also, look for 
a set of roller rockers if you can afford them they are one of the best 
things you can do to FE's If I can remember there is
a performance parts company in California that specializes in FE's and 
they could help you on any question you might have. I think their name 
is Ford Power Parts located in the City of Industry. The very last 
thing. Since it is your first car I would try to stray away from 
headers, big cams, and all the non-stock stuff items. I know that it 
sounds
 boring but it is better to learn basics and go from their.

I'm jealous. I wish I could run across a great deal like that. Sounds 
like a great learning experience. ENJOY!

Happy holidays 
Michael P. Quinn mquinn@ingres.com

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Posted by: emory!ingres.com!mquinn (Michael Quinn)