From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 11:06:47 1993
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6792
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
your site.  Example:  If you are at foo@bar.edu,

Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
try to extract a path from your mail header.  If it does not  work, this
slightly less dumb mail manager (me) will not intervene.  Include a path.

To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com with the 
following subject line:

Subject: drop foo@bar.edu

The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
subscribe with.

To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dixie.com.  Please
include  a meaningful subject line.  Inquiries, and other administrivia should 
be addressed to jgd@dixie.com.   

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
group at your site.  In order to ensure your post is properly returned
to the list, be sure to mark alt.hotrod moderated and point the mailfile
back to hotrod@dixie.com.

If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
to the list.  The list membership is approaching 300 which makes things,
ummm, interesting here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  See below for the archive site.

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of bounced
messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I must 
remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a 
short time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a
day of cushion.  The volume of messages on the list is seldom less
than 10 messages a day even on the weekend so if you don't get 
messages for a day, you know you're off the list.  Simply send a new
subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

ece.rutgers.edu archives the hotrod and the z-car mailing lists.  This is
available only via anonymous ftp.  Jialin Li is the contact.  
jialin@ece.rutgers.edu

Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
the university does not allow incoming anonymous ftp so new GIFs must
be mailed to Milam, met@sunset.cse.nau.edu.  

These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I maintain a mail file server on dixie.com.  This is primarily to support
articles in my magazine, Performance Engineering (TM) but it is also
useful to hotrod list members. Software for articles and other car-related
files are available.  To get a directory, mail to 

	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

address foo@bar.com                     <<-- optional.  Where you want it sent
Index

to get a file,

send file_name

If you get empty messages in return, that means the very sorry server
software I'm now using has crashed.  Send another request.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 11:13:35 1993
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6793
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
your site.  Example:  If you are at foo@bar.edu,

Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

If you do not include a return path, my Incredibly Dumb Mail Slave will
try to extract a path from your mail header.  If it does not  work, this
slightly less dumb mail manager (me) will not intervene.  Include a path.

To be dropped from the list, mail to hotrod-request@dixie.com with the 
following subject line:

Subject: drop foo@bar.edu

The address given MUST be EXACTLY the same as the address you used to 
subscribe with.

To post to the list, send mail to hotrod@dixie.com.  Please
include  a meaningful subject line.  Inquiries, and other administrivia should 
be addressed to jgd@dixie.com.   

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The list is echoed to Usenet on alt.hotrod.  You may be able to get this
group at your site.  In order to ensure your post is properly returned
to the list, be sure to mark alt.hotrod moderated and point the mailfile
back to hotrod@dixie.com.

If you get alt.hotrod, I urge you to use that venue instead of subscribing
to the list.  The list membership is approaching 300 which makes things,
ummm, interesting here.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

A lot of people ask if they are missing articles or if they have been 
unsubscribed from the list.  There are easy answers to these questions.
Each article is assigned a sequential serial number that is contained
in the mail header X-sequence:  If you see missing numbers, you know
you have missed articles.  See below for the archive site.

The only two reasons anyone is ever unsubscribed from the list is a) if
that person asks and b) if mail to an address bounces.  Because of the
way mail agents handle undeliverable mail, I get gobs of bounced
messages.  That combined with the volume of the list means I must 
remove an address on the first round of bouncing.  If you are on
an Internet-based machine that uses SMTP, being down for even a 
short time will result in bouncing.  UUCP sites seem to have about a
day of cushion.  The volume of messages on the list is seldom less
than 10 messages a day even on the weekend so if you don't get 
messages for a day, you know you're off the list.  Simply send a new
subscription request to rejoin.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The following sites maintain archives:

ece.rutgers.edu archives the hotrod and the z-car mailing lists.  This is
available only via anonymous ftp.  Jialin Li is the contact.  
jialin@ece.rutgers.edu

Hotrod-related GIFs (and others) are archived at ftp.nau.edu.  Unfortunately
the university does not allow incoming anonymous ftp so new GIFs must
be mailed to Milam, met@sunset.cse.nau.edu.  

These archive addresses are noted in the mail headers of each message.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I maintain a mail file server on dixie.com.  This is primarily to support
articles in my magazine, Performance Engineering (TM) but it is also
useful to hotrod list members. Software for articles and other car-related
files are available.  To get a directory, mail to 

	listserv@dixie.com

In the BODY of the message, include the statement 

address foo@bar.com                     <<-- optional.  Where you want it sent
Index

to get a file,

send file_name

If you get empty messages in return, that means the very sorry server
software I'm now using has crashed.  Send another request.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 13:35:50 1993
Subject: HEI in a crower FI mainfold - will it fit?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6794
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I bit the bullet and am going to repair the overly ported
	crower FI manifold I got. 
	The question I have is this: Does any one know if 
	an HEI dist will fit in this manifold? Its a crower 2 1/5 inch
	mechanical inj. I dropped a stock dist in it, and it doesnt
	look like there's enough clearance for an HEI. If not, does 
	anyone know of a relativly inexpensive magnetic trigger I 
	can get to go into a points style GM distributor?
	(THat is, to convert from a points breaker plate to magnetic?)
	I'd really like to stay with magnetic trigger for my MSD
	Thanks...

---------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 13:40:34 1993
Subject: Re: Holley Projection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6795
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>Does anyone have any experience with the holley projection system.
>I know it's a speed density type of throttle body unit, how well does it work?
>I'm wanting to buy the 600 cfm 'two barrel' one to adapt to a draw through
>turbo on my mazda RX7. 

AAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

Whew, sorry about that.  Just a re-occuring nightmare.

I put one of these piece-O-junk in my Rx7.

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 13:46:13 1993
Subject: Re; Sand Blasting.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6796
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Subject: Sand Blasting
>
>
>Some of you may remember that I posted a question a few weeks back about
>alternate blasting media.  I was interested in a media that I could blast
>with without distorting sheet metal.  I just read in my brand new
>issue of 4-wheel and Off-Road magazine about a company that blasts
>with baking soda.  I'm going to try it! They claim it doesn't warp
>sheet metal.  In fact, there is a photo of an aluminum pepsi can that
>they have blasted half of the logo off!  I'll let you know how it goes.
>
>I'll bet I can get baking soda a lot cheaper than the plastic media.
>
>-Bob
>

 Bob,
 I wonder if the soda is powder or pellet?
 A dusty affair if in powder form.
 I stripped a complete car body inside and out using a couple methods;
fine white silica sand, and aircraft grade paint stripper.
I had a choice of two blasters; one a suction type that is firm yet gentle
in removing rust and paint; The pressure blaster required a trailer mounted
compressor with ~80 cfm, I used the same fine silica sand in both and 
got acceptable results with no warpage.  Warpage occurs if the blast
pressure is too great and you make the mistake of dwelling on the same
spot for too long with hi sand flow.
  In my case, the body steel was 1mm thick and warpage was a big concern
at first until i learned the 'envelope'.  I began the stripping process
with a coating of chemical stripper and after much labor scraping, removed
the final residue with the blasters.  This two-step technique consumed
more time than just blasting, but afforded gentler treatment in the removal
process.

  Silica sand is available at most rental yards, it comes in 70lb bags, and
will set you back about $4 each.  In a large pressure blaster with a nozzle
id of 1/4", that sand will last 15-30 minutes and can be screened and 
re-used 1 or2 times (gets pretty dusty tho').  Its easy to use a half ton
or so on a complete body doing this.
  The suction blaster will make a sack of sand last up to 4 hours of 
use provided your compressor can keep up (~10cfm @100psi).
These are now available with and without spot blast containment.  Most
suitable for small areas and details.

-- 
  -kyle
  
   is this more related to hotrodding than bullet resistant treatment 
   for vehicles?  jeepers, Poobah!

----------
Posted by: Kyle Ehler 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 13:51:07 1993
Subject: Administrivia:  Attendant not on duty, list on auto
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6797
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Well guys'n'gals, worse has come to worst.  I'm actually about to soil my hands
with paying work.  The power company and the grocery store and a few others
will appreciate that.  And I'll be able to print another issue of PE :-)
Bad part is this is a road trip.  I'm going to be gone for a month
to 6 weeks.  That means the hotrod list will be running on semi-automatic.
Messages will go out automatically after being checked for flame bait words.
I never got around to making my list manager smart enough to screen
out subscription requests, absolutely every bounced message and so on 
so you'll unfortunately see some of this.  I also won't be here to 
fix excessive quoting and text that doesn't fit into 80 char lines so
please behave :-)  And subscription requests and drops that my mail
slave can't handle will not be processed until the weekend.

Well wish me luck.  For me as a magazine publisher, this little job is
the ultimate of irony - I'm doing a factory automation job for a 
paper mill!  Maybe they'll give me a few tones of free sample :-)

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                   | For a free sample magazine, send
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM)     | a digest-size 52 cent SASE 
Marietta, Ga     "Hotrods'n'computers"   | (Domestic) to PO Box 669728
jgd@dixie.com    "What could be better?" | Marietta, GA 30066

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 17:18:15 1993
Subject: Head surface and deck question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6798
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	The little motorcycle rebuild is proceeding apace, but I have hit a
couple of snags:

	1)  The deck on the cylinders is mildly pitted.  A trusted friend
		thinks this won't be a problem and that the gasket can
		conform, but I was thinking I should check on that.  This is
	 	stock motor, low-power, but running about 9 to 9.5:1 (I can't
		remember exactly) on compression.  Is it worth milling the
		deck?  I assume I'll have to use two base gaskets to get the
		deck height back.

	2)  I have two heads for the little beast ('75 Honda CB360T, parallel
		twin, air-cooled motor, nothing fancy 2-valve jobs).  Head #1
		features some gouging in the combustion chambers, particularly
		noticeable in the one in which the piston gave up the ghost.
		I'm told that I can smooth the edges out to avoid hot spots
		and then bolt it up, BUT there are some gouges in the squish
		area near the gasket surface that I'm concerned about, and
		there are some scratches in the gasket surface right where
		the metal insert on the head gasket goes, plus the other
		chamber has what appears to be a casting inclusion right
		where the metal insert goes.  The head gasket was blown on the
		motor, and I don't want to blow another.  Head #2 has perfect
		combustion chambers, but suffers from the same scratches and
		an inclusion.  One scratch is very shallow, but the inclusion
		is not.  The inclusion is, however, about half the width of
		the metal insert away from the combustion chamber.  The head
		gasket wasn't blown on this motor, but I have no idea how long
		it was on there, as other scratching elsewhere on the surface
		reveals that this head was off before.

		Questions:  can these be milled out?  How much can you mill
		a head?  The inclusions are a few thousandths deep, which is
		probably quite a lot to try to mill and still have the engine
		live on pump gas, right?  Is it anything to worry about in
		the first place?

	These appear to be the last hurdles in reassembly.  If these suckers
are usable or easily cleaned up, then the motor can go back together.  I
absolutely don't want to do a "what the hell, put it together and hope" job
just to have the head gasket give up in short order.

Thanks,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I still need a racebike.              I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 17:36:13 1993
Subject: Re: sanctioning body address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6799
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

GatorMail-Q                   RE>sanctioning body addresses
> I'd also cheerfully accept address/phones/contacts for 
>any of the major racetracks, driving schools, etc.

Bob Bondurante's School of High performance Driving
PO Box 51980
Phoenix, AZ 85076

602-796-1111

or


20000 S. Maricopa Rd.
Chandler AZ

602-961-0143
602-961-1111



----------
Posted by: "Jim Chott" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 17:53:24 1993
Subject: Re: Sand Blasting.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6800
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Is sand (bead, whatever) blasting suitable for removing chrome from a bumper?
The chrome on the bumpers of my '63 Galaxie is sick; dull, hazy and slightly
pitted.  I don't plan to rechrome but paint them body color, so a perfectly
smooth surface is not required.

[Sand would probably work but I prefer the zero-work method - un-plate
it.  Just reverse the plating process.  Just bag that sucker in a heavy
plastic bag, pour in some suitable electrolyte (battery acid will work)
enough to immerse the part, lay a piece of stainless steel wire near it
but not in contact and apply DC current with the bumper on the positive
lead.  The chrome and underlayments (nickel over copper, typically) will
plate right back into solution.  Actually it falls out as sludge.  The 
higher the current density, the faster the de-plating but for something 
that large, you likely cannot get anywhere near the optimum current
density so just hook it up to whatever you have that can supply 10-20 amps
and let it cook, making sure the solution doesn't get too hot.

I've never done a whole bumper but I have done lots of smaller trim pieces
this way in preparation for painting.  Works great.  If you let the de-plating
go a bit farther after the last underlayment, it will etch the steel
to a satin finish that gives paint a real good bite.  After the de-plating
is finished, soak the part for a few hours in warm baking soda water to
neutralize any of the acid residue.  JGD]


----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 18:08:28 1993
Subject: Re: Administrivia:  Attendant not on duty, list on auto
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6801
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Well wish me luck.  For me as a magazine publisher, this little job is
> the ultimate of irony - I'm doing a factory automation job for a 
> paper mill!  Maybe they'll give me a few tones of free sample :-)
> John

ROFL! Well, it could be worse, the magazine recycling center for instance.
However, don't take it badly - those paper mills are something! Power in
the megawatts, BIG engines, look on it as a form of hotrod project, maybe.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

[Yup.  I've done some consulting to the Bowaters plant (world's largest)
in Tennessee.  Not big by nuclear plant standards but the sight of 
a 50 foot wide sheet of paper trucking along at 1000 fpm or better is 
impressive.  I particularly like the chipper.  Trees go in and 
saw dust belches out.  Impressive.  I have NO idea what I'm going to be
doing on this job but the money's green and that's what matters :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 18:13:04 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6802
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:

: If any of you have opinions on certain brands of products, it'd be great to
: hear about it -- because the magazines never will.

On this note. People always ask me why I do business with speed shops when
these catalogs (Summit etc.) are available at a lesser cost. I do my business
at the shops for the reasons you are concerned with. Few people know what is
good and what is crap better than the guys behind the counter of my local
(good) speed shops. I build a relationship with them, and the value they add to
the products (knowledge, experience) is usually worth the extra money I
might spend avoiding the catalog route. 

Just a shameless plug for your local neighborhood speed shop.

--

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Steve D'Amelio  damelio@progress.com  |  69 Mustang 351W    Doing more than my
                                      |  70 Mustang 351C    part to reduce the
 #7 & #28                             |  88 Mustang 302     deficit.
                                      |  - 1,025hp -
                There's no replacement, for displacement.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

----------
Posted by: emory!elba.progress.COM!damelio (Stephen D'Amelio)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 18:35:11 1993
Subject: RE: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6803
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I was going to respond with a couple of does and don'ts.  Instead I though
of an interesting question.

How do people feel about Mr. Gasket?

Personally I have used their flywheel (Hayes) and found out that
Hayes makes theirs thinner than everyone elses.  So thin that for SB Chevy 
you cannont use it with a hydralic clutch (not enough adjustment).  My 
Centerforce clutch would hit the head bolts of the flywheel-crankshaft 
bolts.  Hayes suggest (said it was normal) that I should counter sink the 
holes.  I measured I needed .150 inches countersink - the center section 
was only .450 thick.  So I should take out 1/3 of the material?  All the 
machine shops I talked to would not guarantee the work or the safety of the
work.  No thanks!  After talking with Midway (the makers of the clutch) 
they suggest I get another flywheel or one of their flywheel.  According to 
them some manufacturers skimp on the machining and just make the flywheel 
thin - thus unusable for some late model cars (esp Chevy).  I eventually 
got a Mclead flywheel.  This flywheel was much more expensive (about $240 
retail) but the quality.... infinitly better - these guys do good work.  
Instead of sharp edges I found cleanly radiused bends.  This flywheel 
turned a 3 week nighmare into a one weekend bolt-in.

Come to think of it I was never impressed by anything Mr Gasket sold - I 
may be mistaken since Mr Gasket owns many things and sells them under 
different brand names but IMHO I can't think of a good one.

Products I've been 100% happy with:
ARP bolts - and Miloden bolts - or SPS bots (there is a aerospace fastner
company called SPS)

TRW - seems their quality is as good as the best NOS stuff (and sometimes 
the same).

Comp Cams - although some post about their customer service - all their 
grinds seem to work as advertised.

Autometer gauges, VDO 

Most Moroso stuff - I can't remember a problem.

In general the more expensive the better.  I don't trust aluminum in an 
engine - maybe even the pistons are suspect :-).  Having a good machine 
shop go over everything and adding ARP bolts gives excellent piece of mind.

My first engine rebuilt was a $800 rering job with PAW parts - I feel I got 
lucky and everything held to gether.  My last engine was a $2400 - get 
parts mail-order and machine work local - job.  This one fit together like 
a glove.  Everything tight and everyting fit right.  This is one engine I 
would trust with my life!

The rule still holds - you get what you payed for... if your lucky

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 19:42:19 1993
Subject: cheap fix for Motorcyle heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6804
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If it were my motorcycle head, I'd try block sanding it on some wet 600 grit
wet-or-dry emory paper.  If you know someone with a perfectly flat block of
granite (a lot of machine shops have one), put the sand paper with the grit
up, pour a puddle of water in the middle, and start sanding the face of the
cylinder head in figure 8 patterns.  Press lightly in the center.  After a
minute or so, the high spots will look mirror-like and the low spots will
look black.  It should make it obvious how bad it really is.

The only problem is that the mirror-like finish won't give the gasket much
bite.  Maybe a coarser grit will get the head flat without losing too much
"bite".  Cylinder heads on car engines are left with machining grooves which
help the gasket stay put.   --or so I've heard.

With a fine-grit paper, you'd have to sand a long time just to remove a few
mils.  If you keep the force even in the middle, it'll stay flat.  If you do
it too loosely, or you lean on the edge too much, you'll round off the edges
a little bit.

If you can't find a granite block, you might get by with a formica counter
top -- check it with a straight-edge first.

The same method works great to flatten the base of thermostat housings,
carburetor bases etc.

Good luck,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  1 19:58:00 1993
Subject: good and bad brands
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6805
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Here's my list of good and bad brands (from my own experience)

Good:
	Milodon, Comp Cams, Cam Dynamics, Edelbrock, Weiand, Holley (except
for leaky gaskets), TRW, Mallory, Moroso, B.F. Goodrich Radial T/As, Clevite
77, Fel-Pro, Engineered Components (Excellent brake parts), K&N, 

Good tools:  Proto, Mac, Armstrong, Williams, Bonney, old Craftsman

Bad tools:  New Craftsman, Crew-Line, anything made in China, Taiwan, or
Japan, except for Makita which is pretty good.

Mediocre parts:
	No-name stuff from PAW, J.C.Whitney, Warshawsky, the flea market.  
Mr. Gasket, Daytona, TransDapt, Autogage (cheap division of Autometer)

I forgot to ad Snap-On to the list of excellent tools

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 00:40:31 1993
Subject: Re: good and bad brands
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6806
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I haven't had any problems with new craftsman.  But that is just me.
Do you have any experience with Lunati cams and cranks out of Memphis?
JC Whitney usually has not been very good to me.


R.R.

----------
Posted by: ROAD RUNNER 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 10:32:35 1993
Subject: HEI in a crower FI mainfold - will it fit?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6807
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> look like there's enough clearance for an HEI. If not, does
-> anyone know of a relativly inexpensive magnetic trigger I
-> can get to go into a points style GM distributor?
-> (THat is, to convert from a points breaker plate to magnetic?)

 You're in luck!  Just use the reluctor and pickup out of an HEI; mount
the little electronic module outside the distributor in some convenient
spot.
                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 11:13:42 1993
Subject: Re: good and bad brands 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6808
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I haven't had any problems with new craftsman.  But that is just me.

    Can't say I've had good experiences with the new stuff.   Their
3/8 flex head rachet wears out and breaks like no tommorrow.    Their
deep thin-wall sockets crack very easily.  Their screwdrivers are just
plain dangerous.    But their warranty is _great_!  8^>

>JC Whitney usually has not been very good to me.

    I don't call 'em "J.C. Whip-Me" for nothing.  However, they DO
have good deals on the name-brand stuff they now carry; Edlebrock,
Addco, ect.

  While we're at it, does anyone have a opinion of the Edlebrock
"Performer" carb vs. the Carter AFB?   From what I read in the manual,
Edelbrock changed the jet locations slightly.    Anyone have "seat of
the pants" evaluations?

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: Bob "$1/meg" Valentine 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 11:18:54 1993
Subject: Re: Sand Blasting.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6809
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: Is sand (bead, whatever) blasting suitable for removing chrome from a bumper?
: The chrome on the bumpers of my '63 Galaxie is sick; dull, hazy and slightly
: pitted.  I don't plan to rechrome but paint them body color, so a perfectly
: smooth surface is not required.

: [Sand would probably work but I prefer the zero-work method - un-plate
: it.  Just reverse the plating process.  Just bag that sucker in a heavy
: plastic bag, pour in some suitable electrolyte (battery acid will work)

	I've done both on smaller pieces (quarter bumpers). I vote for
sandblasting. It's quicker,safer (this after loosing my sense of smell for
a week after getting a solid whiff of fumes out of my deplating tank) and
leaves a better surface to paint on without worrying about any nasty
chemicals boiling out on a real hot day
-- 
--
Mark Becht         mark@genesis.mcs.com

----------
Posted by: emory!genesis.MCS.COM!mark (Mark R. Becht)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 11:23:30 1993
Subject: Ford 351W hi comp pistons for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6810
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu




	Set TRW L2442 F 030 pistons for 351 Ford - new - 
	351W, 77-81 heads only. Has .4 dome, 11:1 comp.
	SEE CATALOG for further details.

	It can go UPS. 
	Asking $225, At, or near, that price I'll pay shipping.
	If you're interested in it, send offer.

---
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!auspex.com!news
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 11:27:51 1993
Subject: Ford 351W hi comp pistons for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6811
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu




	Set TRW L2442 F 030 pistons for 351 Ford - new - 
	351W, 77-81 heads only. Has .4 dome, 11:1 comp.
	SEE CATALOG for further details.

	It can go UPS. 
	Asking $225, At, or near, that price I'll pay shipping.
	If you're interested in it, send offer.

---
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!transfer.stratus.com!jjmhome!pig!news (usnet news Administrator)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 11:39:39 1993
Subject: Propylene Glycol
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6812
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Any idea what the affect of the higher viscosity of propylene glycol
is?  How about cavitation of the water pump?  It seems to have a lower
surface tension than water or glycol, so water wetter will probably
not have much an affect.

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 12:48:43 1993
Subject: Re: HEI in a crower FI mainfold - will it fit?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6813
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------
X-Sun-Data-Type: text
X-Sun-Data-Description: text
X-Sun-Data-Name: text
X-Sun-Content-Lines: 20


> 
> 
> -> look like there's enough clearance for an HEI. If not, does
> -> anyone know of a relativly inexpensive magnetic trigger I
> -> can get to go into a points style GM distributor?
> -> (THat is, to convert from a points breaker plate to magnetic?)
> 
>  You're in luck!  Just use the reluctor and pickup out of an HEI; mount
> the little electronic module outside the distributor in some convenient
> spot.
>                           
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
	Dave, are you saying I can replace the cam in a points dist. with
the reluctor from an HEI with "no effort"? Too, does the pickup share the
same mounting dimensions as a set of points? This would make my day...Seems
too easy though. (Dont need module cause I'm using MSD6AL. Just need a cheap
mag pickup.)
----------
X-Sun-Data-Type: default
X-Sun-Data-Description: default
X-Sun-Data-Name: .signature
X-Sun-Content-Lines: 3

Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 12:54:37 1993
Subject: Re: good and bad brands
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6814
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> >I haven't had any problems with new craftsman.  But that is just me.

>     Can't say I've had good experiences with the new stuff.   Their
> 3/8 flex head rachet wears out and breaks like no tommorrow.    Their
> deep thin-wall sockets crack very easily.  Their screwdrivers are just
> plain dangerous.    But their warranty is _great_!  8^>

Is it just me, or does craftsman appear to have about 5 quality levels within 
tools.  They also play a further game by having sears brand tools and craftsman
brand tools.  In buying individual craftsman pieces I have always had
excellent luck.  Of course I look for the most expensive highest quality 
individual item they sell (In buying a 3/8 ratchet I bought the unchromed
stainless steel one), and I think I come out ahead.

I would be very hesitant to buy a packaged deal of tools from Sears
(ala their 18 screwdrivers for $29.99), but I have always been happy with 
paying $5.99 for a good screwdriver that I'll have for the rest of my life.

I never kick myself spending money on good tools.

Ed O'
edo@marcam.com 

----------
Posted by: emory!marcam.com!edo (Ed Oriordan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 13:14:25 1993
Subject: Re: good and bad brands
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6815
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article s1jkh@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>  While we're at it, does anyone have a opinion of the Edlebrock
>"Performer" carb vs. the Carter AFB?   From what I read in the manual,
>Edelbrock changed the jet locations slightly.    Anyone have "seat of
>the pants" evaluations?
>
>                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
>                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
>            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"
>
>----------
>Posted by: Bob "$1/meg" Valentine 

I have a new Carter AFB and I think its great! The throttle response is very good...
as for Edelbrocks carburator its the same as the Carter...from what I can tell and
have been told.  

Rick

rick@sparky.uark.edu
University of Arkansas - PHPL

----------
Posted by: Rick Lindstedt 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 13:21:29 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6816
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> On this note. People always ask me why I do business with speed shops
-> when these catalogs (Summit etc.) are available at a lesser cost.
...
-> Just a shameless plug for your local neighborhood speed shop.

 There's a Stupid Shops about 40 miles away.  Their inventory is
limited.  There's a place in Russellville (65 miles) that is happy to
order stuff for you at MSRP+20%, you pay shipping.  The next nearest
shop of any consequence is RHS in Memphis, 150 miles away.

 Not everyone has a local neighborhood speed shop.
                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 13:27:35 1993
Subject: Re: good and bad brands
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6817
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

While the prices may be all right, their shipping sucks.  A friend had a lot
of stuff backordered and they made him pay for everything, even the stuff on
backorder.  

R.R.
doesn't deal with J.C. witless

----------
Posted by: ROAD RUNNER 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 14:47:01 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6818
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 
> -> On this note. People always ask me why I do business with speed shops
> -> when these catalogs (Summit etc.) are available at a lesser cost.
> ...
> -> Just a shameless plug for your local neighborhood speed shop.
> 
>  There's a Stupid Shops about 40 miles away.  Their inventory is
> limited.  There's a place in Russellville (65 miles) that is happy to
> order stuff for you at MSRP+20%, you pay shipping.  The next nearest
> shop of any consequence is RHS in Memphis, 150 miles away.
> 

Question for you:  Can you _see_ civilization from your place, or are you 
                   beyond that? :-)

I'd have to agree with the general case that quality varies directly with 
price.  Few and far between are the exceptions.  I figure it's the reason
they charge what they do.

Paul
--
polson@astro.atk.com

----------
Posted by: Paul Olson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 15:43:39 1993
Subject: Tools
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6819
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I forgot to mention S-K tools.  I'm really happy with my set of 3/8" drive
sockets I bought about five years ago.  The new S-K tools look different from
mine though, so I don't know how they are now.

I get a lot of my tools used at the Flea Market in San Jose (world's largest
flea market).  It's like you struck gold when you find some beautiful Proto
tools or Mac tools for a buck or two a piece.  A lot of guys have piles of
old tools that you can rummage through.  It's fun digging through all the
junk to find jems like Proto and Snap-On.  It's a joy wrenching on cars with
top-quality tools that you don't have to worry about stripping heads,
cracking sockets, breaking wratchets, etc.

Easco is another brand of wrenches which are pretty good, but they don't look
that nice (not fully polished).  

If you're looking at old tools, the key words are "made in USA", drop-forged,
or chrome-vanadium.  The good brands like Proto don't need to hype up their
tools, they sell on their reputation alone.  The better quality tools usually
are lighter weight and easier to fit into tight locations.  They use superior
steel and hardening/tempering to get the strength rather than massive amounts
of cheap soft steel.  The made-in-China open-end wrenches have massive steel
heads, but they bend and spread open if you torque on them.

My fifteen year-old Craftstman socket wrenches are still fine, but a set I
bought for work a few years ago are junk.  The newer socket wrench is
pitifully short with a pushbutton that gets in the way.  The ratchet stripped
when I was tightening a 1/2" nut -- what a piece of junk.  

I have a Craftsman set of 1/2" drive sockets, they're not as nice as my S-K
sockets.  

My best 1/2" drive wratchet wrench is an old one that just says
"Super-ratchet".  It's great, it clicks in super tiny increments with no
backlash.  I got it for $4.00 at the flea market.

It's tough to find decent screwdrivers.  All of my Craftsmen screwdrivers
eventually get twisted, or chewed up.  They're good for a while.  I've had
good luck with XcelLite screwdrivers.  Klein screwdrivers are excellent, but
expensive -- they're what professional electricians use.  I think I'll get
some more Kleins when I find 'em on sale or something.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 15:48:29 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6820
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Nov 2, 13:13, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
>
> -> On this note. People always ask me why I do business with speed shops
> -> when these catalogs (Summit etc.) are available at a lesser cost.
> ...
> -> Just a shameless plug for your local neighborhood speed shop.
>

You probably have a hot street Chevy, don't you?  Occasional drag
strip use, right?

The problem I have here in Colorado Springs is that all of the speed
shops are oriented towards Chevy drag racers.  When I say "road
racing" they get a glazed look on their face.  When I say "Ford", they
get an equally glazed look.  I've quit saying the two together since
that usually causes fainting. So, I've quit going to the speed shops.
I just mail order: Summit, JBA, Global West, PAW, Griggs, and
Truesports.  (I avoid Kauffmann). For hand tools I go to Sears, for
other tools I usually use Harbor Freight.

-Bob


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 16:00:58 1993
Subject: AFBs (was Re: good and bad brands)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6821
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Bob Valentine wrote:
  While we're at it, does anyone have a opinion of the Edlebrock
"Performer" carb vs. the Carter AFB?   From what I read in the manual,
Edelbrock changed the jet locations slightly.    Anyone have "seat of
the pants" evaluations?


I believe that what they changed was the atomizers that feed the
venturies; there doesn't seem to be any change in the jet locations.

I have used various Carter and Edelbrock carbs but have never tried
the Federal-Mogul "Carter" model.

An original Carter 625 CFM worked very well but eventually got
tired and worn.  This carb was made in roughly 1975.

A Carter 500 CFM which was made in about 1979 worked as well as
the old 625, except for the lack of top end (the carb was too
small for the engine).  Throttle response was good.

I replaced the worn 625 CFM model with a new 9635 in about 1987.
This carb didn't work well; it had a bog on throttle opening
which the accelerator pump adjustments were never able to cure.
I visually compared this carb with the early 625 CFM model and
could not see any visual reason why it didn't work well.  I
never did figure out why it wasn't right; maybe things weren't
looking good to the Carter employees at the time and they didn't
care about the quality of their work???

I tried an Edelbrock 625 CFM carb in 1990.  This one seemed to
work as well as the early 625 CFM model but it was on a considerably
different engine so the comparison may not be fair.

The Edelbrock version is very slightly different than the old
Carter model.  There is one less screw holding the top onto the
carb, they have switched to Torx screws in several places, and they
rivet a label onto the front of the carb.  There are some other
very minor differences in how the linkages are made.  Jets and metering
rods are fully interchangeable between the two.  The basic casting
doesn't seem to have changed any.  And, as I mentioned above, they
seem to have improved the fuel atomizers that feed the venturies.

The biggest complaint that I have about the AFB type of carbs is
that the accelerator pump doesn't have the wide range of adjustability
that you get from Holley.  On the other hand, the AFB is so much
easier to work with and the amount of money that you have to spend
on accessory parts is so much less that I would use the AFB type in
preference to the Holley anywhere that the AFB's accelerator pump was
adequate.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 16:40:47 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6822
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yeah, I know what you mean about the 'fainting' effect.  Around here, whenever
I walk into a place (with 1 exception - but I went to high school with the
guy) they already know what I want, even if I don't.  What I mean is that if
I ask for a specific part, they come up with:  "What year car?  What size
engine?  A/C?  Hmm, it doesn't list that part as fitting that car...  How
'bout some fancy steering wheel cover instead?"  I already _know_ the part
will fit, just sell it to me.

Once, I actually had to go home, look up the part numbers in my own catalogs,
come back and just order by part #.  They still wouldn't do it for me, so I
just found out a car the parts would fit on and ordered for that.  Geez, such
a hassle...

Now, when I call Summit, I just say I want part # so and so, and it's on
my doorstop in 4 days.  Of course, if I didn't know what I was looking for,
that would be bad, depending on your point of view... :)

-- Steve

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 16:54:17 1993
Subject: Tools (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6823
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

If you're looking at old tools, the key words are "made in USA", drop-forged,
or chrome-vanadium.  The good brands like Proto don't need to hype up their
tools, they sell on their reputation alone.  The better quality tools usually
are lighter weight and easier to fit into tight locations.  They use superior
steel and hardening/tempering to get the strength rather than massive amounts
of cheap soft steel.  The made-in-China open-end wrenches have massive steel
heads, but they bend and spread open if you torque on them.
 
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 

In 1960 my dad gave me my first set of tools which included a mixed set
of 3/8 sockets that included a ratchet.  He had bought that ratchet in
the '30s.  All that it says on this ratchet is Proto Chrome-vanadium. 
He used it for 25 years and now I've used it for 33 more years.  It's my only
3/8 drive and I still have many of those sockets.  I used the ratchet
last weekend when I swapped trannies.

Good tools will last longer than you do.
Buy 'em and try not to lose 'em. 
tom root



----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 19:40:01 1993
Subject: Re: Tools
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6824
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I got a set of Powr-Kraft tools put out buy Montgomery Ward in the 60's.  My
dad bought it in the 60's and It is still as good as new.  Montgomery Ward
doesn't make tools anymore, but if they ever decide to, I hope the quality is
as good as that set.


R.R.

----------
Posted by: ROAD RUNNER 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 20:41:40 1993
Subject: Re: Exhaust system tuning
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6825
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> While we're on the subject of headers, does anyone have *anything* on
>how to size tubes and runners for tri-Y headers?

Yeah, let's see some ideas!  I've been pondering the exhaust system on
the porsche for a while now.  What I've got is a 6-cyl. boxer configuration
with the exhaust exiting straight at the ground.  With heat-exchanger
prices around $900 per bank, building my own exhaust system isn't out
of the question.  What I was considering was the advantages of the
3-2-1 system (of course which this engine is ideally suited for) and
a system which merged every cyl. to one collector.  I know that everyone
says that they can get more power with the multiple merging systems,
but they're always talking about "V" engines.  In a V, you can't
merge the one's *you* want to, you have work with the one's on a
particular side of an engine.  What I was considering was the benefits
if any of the following config (excuse the ascii graphics):
                        _______
                       /       \
                      /         \
             ________/     1     \________
            /        \           /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      6     \_______/      2     \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /   not   \          /
            \________/   really  \________/ 
            /        \    here   /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      5     \_______/      3     \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /         \          /
            \________/     4     \________/ 
                     \           /
                      \         /
                       \_______/
Note: tubes are round (or maybe ellipsis in for ground clearance) and
      section in middle is really where tubes merge (which was difficult
      to get right on this drawing.)

Above:
When, in theory, if one could tune the header so that the next firing
cylinder's exhaust pulse arrived at the same time that the previous
exhaust pulse reached its lull, that cyl. will scavenge better due to
the dynamically negative pressure at the point that it enters the
collector.

Now, next scenario:
                        _______
                       /       \
                      /         \
             ________/     1     \________
            /        \           /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      4     \_______/     5      \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /   not   \          /
            \________/   really  \________/ 
            /        \    here   /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      2     \_______/     3      \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /         \          /
            \________/     6     \________/ 
                     \           /
                      \         /
                       \_______/

On the other hand, maybe the exhaust gases from the previous firing cyl. are
not of high enough velocity, and/or create an affective negative pressure
of negligible magnitude at the adjacent (next firing) cylinder.  In this case,
it would be desirable to minimize the interaction between the exhaust stream
of each successively firing cylinder (as depicted in the diagram directly above).  
... or maybe (from top-most in drawing, going clock-wise) 1-3-4-6-2-5
combination. 

Food for thought anyway :-)

On another exhaust-related issue... how's the lawnmower from hell runn'in John?
I may be in need of some custom tweeks for the friendly 206cc Briggs&Stratton.
The adrenaline bug of mine could sleep no more.  I had to get into some
real full-time racing, but my pocket book started to scream.  My solution:
a KART!  I picked up a pristine KART 2-weeks ago.  It came with two motors
(and receipts showing the guy paid $550 for one and $650 for the other!)
I guess these Briggs guys get pretty serious.  They burn methanol and one
motor came with a dyno-sheet indicating 11hp @ 6400rpm!  I don't think
they used the ol' build-up-cam-with-brazing-rod trick you mentioned.
Nope, a box I got came with 4 different grid cams.  Serious indeed!
forged aluminum rods (as opposed to the pot-metal stock rods).  Forged
aluminum pistons that are ludicrisly light, sporting one ultra-thin
top ring, and one minimal oil control.  The class this kart was raced
in didn't allow over-bore, but a parts catalog the guy gave me had complete
with larger cast iron sleeves and over-bored.  These things are stressed
so much, that they put these girdles that sandwich the head to the case
with running-thread so they won't blow off!  I can see this is going to
be my kind of racing :-)

Back to the exhaust... these briggs all run a straight 1" diam pipe directly
from the head out to 14" where they terminate with a flange welded to the
end of the pipe (in case anyone decides to get a closer look at one from
behind, it won't ram right through their helmet).  One track around here
has rumored of muffler requirements next season.  I was at the local
racing supply and noticed a cutaway Flow-Master.  Does anyone think that
an attempt at duplicating the workings of the Flow-Master on a smaller
scale with work?  I could always run a 1.5" SuperTrapp like I think
everyone else will, but hey what the hell!  It could turn out to be
something.

Later,

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

----------
Posted by: emory!wrs.com!johnson (David Johnson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  2 21:43:57 1993
Subject: RE: Exhaust Tuning
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6826
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

> While we're on the subject of headers, does anyone have *anything* on
>how to size tubes and runners for tri-Y headers?

Yeah, let's see some ideas!  I've been pondering the exhaust system on
the porsche for a while now.  What I've got is a 6-cyl. boxer configuration
with the exhaust exiting straight at the ground.  With heat-exchanger
prices around $900 per bank, building my own exhaust system isn't out
of the question.  What I was considering was the advantages of the
3-2-1 system (of course which this engine is ideally suited for) and
a system which merged every cyl. to one collector.  I know that everyone
says that they can get more power with the multiple merging systems,
but they're always talking about "V" engines.  In a V, you can't
merge the one's *you* want to, you have work with the one's on a
particular side of an engine.  What I was considering was the benefits
if any of the following config (excuse the ascii graphics):
                        _______
                       /       \
                      /         \
             ________/     1     \________
            /        \           /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      6     \_______/      2     \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /   not   \          /
            \________/   really  \________/ 
            /        \    here   /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      5     \_______/      3     \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /         \          /
            \________/     4     \________/ 
                     \           /
                      \         /
                       \_______/
Note: tubes are round (or maybe ellipsis in for ground clearance) and
      section in middle is really where tubes merge (which was difficult
      to get right on this drawing.)

Above:
When, in theory, if one could tune the header so that the next firing
cylinder's exhaust pulse arrived at the same time that the previous
exhaust pulse reached its lull, that cyl. will scavenge better due to
the dynamically negative pressure at the point that it enters the
collector.

Now, next scenario:
                        _______
                       /       \
                      /         \
             ________/     1     \________
            /        \           /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      4     \_______/     5      \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /   not   \          /
            \________/   really  \________/ 
            /        \    here   /        \
           /          \         /          \
          /      2     \_______/     3      \
          \            /       \            /
           \          /         \          /
            \________/     6     \________/ 
                     \           /
                      \         /
                       \_______/

On the other hand, maybe the exhaust gases from the previous firing cyl. are
not of high enough velocity, and/or create an affective negative pressure
of negligible magnitude at the adjacent (next firing) cylinder.  In this case,
it would be desirable to minimize the interaction between the exhaust stream
of each successively firing cylinder (as depicted in the diagram directly above).  
... or maybe (from top-most in drawing, going clock-wise) 1-3-4-6-2-5
combination. 

Food for thought anyway :-)

On another exhaust-related issue... how's the lawnmower from hell runn'in John?
I may be in need of some custom tweeks for the friendly 206cc Briggs&Stratton.
The adrenaline bug of mine could sleep no more.  I had to get into some
real full-time racing, but my pocket book started to scream.  My solution:
a KART!  I picked up a pristine KART 2-weeks ago.  It came with two motors
(and receipts showing the guy paid $550 for one and $650 for the other!)
I guess these Briggs guys get pretty serious.  They burn methanol and one
motor came with a dyno-sheet indicating 11hp @ 6400rpm!  I don't think
they used the ol' build-up-cam-with-brazing-rod trick you mentioned.
Nope, a box I got came with 4 different grid cams.  Serious indeed!
forged aluminum rods (as opposed to the pot-metal stock rods).  Forged
aluminum pistons that are ludicrisly light, sporting one ultra-thin
top ring, and one minimal oil control.  The class this kart was raced
in didn't allow over-bore, but a parts catalog the guy gave me had complete
with larger cast iron sleeves and over-bored.  These things are stressed
so much, that they put these girdles that sandwich the head to the case
with running-thread so they won't blow off!  I can see this is going to
be my kind of racing :-)

Back to the exhaust... these briggs all run a straight 1" diam pipe directly
from the head out to 14" where they terminate with a flange welded to the
end of the pipe (in case anyone decides to get a closer look at one from
behind, it won't ram right through their helmet).  One track around here
has rumored of muffler requirements next season.  I was at the local
racing supply and noticed a cutaway Flow-Master.  Does anyone think that
an attempt at duplicating the workings of the Flow-Master on a smaller
scale with work?  I could always run a 1.5" SuperTrapp like I think
everyone else will, but hey what the hell!  It could turn out to be
something.

Later,

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

----------
Posted by: David Johnson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov  3 22:50:04 1993
Subject: Re: HEI in a crower FI mainfold - will it fit?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6827
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <99r1!da@dixie.com>, The Hotrod List  wrote:
> You're in luck!  Just use the reluctor and pickup out of an HEI; mount
>the little electronic module outside the distributor in some convenient
>spot.

But don't forget to mount the module to something that will act as a heat
sink (aluminum plate will work), and don't forget to use heat conductive
grease between the module and the mount.


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 20:54:54 1993
Subject: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6828
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Can anyone suggest a place that sells Dart II Chevy heads
at a good price?  I looked in the Summit catalog and they
only had Ford heads listed :-(  (not that I'm bashing Fords;
I need a set of heads for a Chevy).  Thanks.

Bob Hale           hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:00:02 1993
Subject: Re: Exhaust system tuning
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6829
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Nov 2, 19:43, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: Re: Exhaust system tuning

>                         _______
>                        /       \
>                       /         \
>              ________/     1     \________
>             /        \           /        \
>            /          \         /          \
>           /      6     \_______/      2     \
>           \            /       \            /
>            \          /   not   \          /
>             \________/   really  \________/
>             /        \    here   /        \
>            /          \         /          \
>           /      5     \_______/      3     \
>           \            /       \            /
>            \          /         \          /
>             \________/     4     \________/
>                      \           /
>                       \         /
>                        \_______/


Maybe I'm missing something in what you are trying to say, but the
header I use on my 240Z looks very similiar to this.  I couldn't
vouch for the firing order though.  I believe this to be the
popular header config for guys who road race the 240Zs.

-Bob


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:07:07 1993
Subject: Parts satisfaction
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6830
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I've noticed that people here seem pretty satisfied with ARP...
well, I have my personal pain in the booty story about them.  I've
purchased four things of theirs... head studs, main studs, flywheel
bolts, and their 'accessory bolt kit'.  The mains were fine, liked
them a lot.  Flywheel bolts seemed nice too.  The head studs (used
on a 351W with 1970 heads) were not all long enough.  The threads
engaged, but some of the studs were long enough that the nut went
far enough onto the threads that some were exposed out the back of
the nut while others got close, but did not come out all the way.
It seems to me that the nut should thread on completely, but it
doesn't and can't.  I doubt that it's because the studs are threaded
all the way into the block, though backing them out would solve the
problem, but something tells me that's not what's wrong (that
something was the instructions).  Then the accessory bolt kit...
well, it was nice and all, except that although it had all the bolts
the ARP people thought it should have, it didn't have all the bolts
Ford thought it should have had.  It was about 3 or 4 bolts shy of a
full set for the front cover, and some of the bolts they gave me for
the front cover were by no means usable with the front cover.  I
still have to write to ARP and see what they can do about it; if
they answer all my questions and fix the problem, then this won't be
a horror story, but one of final peace and joy in the automotive
world
 
Stuff I've had good experiences with: Milodon, Mallory, Aeroquip,
Fel-Pro, AutoTronic Controls (both their MSD parts and service),
Edelbrock, B&M, Taylor, AutoMeter, and even Radio Shack (great when
you need an emergency electrical repair).
 
Bad experieneces: Trans-Dapt, Lisle tools (don't get me wrong some
of their stuff is great, but I've bought a few 'magic tools' that
were only magic because it took a miracle of stupidity for me to buy
them), new Craftsman, and some company akin to Trans-Dapt that sells
cheesy chrome-esque parts that don't like heat (DP Products or
something like that).
 
Oh, and let's not forget my two favorite items of all time: blue 
RTV sealent (or whatever expletive you might like to refer to is as)
and of course, Simple Green.

----------
Posted by: emory!sdcc13.ucsd.edu!bkolodzi (Hurdy Gurdy Man )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:12:41 1993
Subject: FI 460
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6831
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Does anyone know of a reputable source for good condition, low
mileage, late model Ford FI 460 truck motors? Complete with harness,
etc? I'm looking to do an engine swap, and one of these (plus some
massaging, naturally) seems to me to be a good thing.

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:17:18 1993
Subject: Exhaust Corrosion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6832
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I lstened to a debate last night between two people who know much
more about cars than I do.  

The debate concerned how to make an exhaust system last longer.

One man contended that if you spray paint the outside of new pipes
with heat resistant paint the pipes will last "twice" as long

         "because pipes rust from the outside in."

The other gentleman believed that the exhaust from a car was corrosive
and that the pipes rusted from the inside out.

Not wanting to be without a position, and not wanting to choose sides I
said I believed that they were both right to a degree.

Questions:

		1. Who was right?
		2. Is there a way to cut down on corrosion
		3. How expensive is it?
		4. Do you think its worth it?

Thanks in advance, Joe



----------
Posted by: emory!ccsua.ctstateu.edu!parys
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:23:10 1993
Subject: Connecting Rods
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6833
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I am in the middle of building a blown (B&M 162, under the hood type) Chevy 350
to put in my streetable '69 Camaro.  My next purchase is going to be connecting
rods. Summit & Jegs have comparible rods all between 500 - 600 dollars. They
are all new rods, shot peened, ARP bolts, etc.

Warshawsky has a set of H&H race craft rods they call the "pink plus" rod
(page 4 of Metro Catalog No. 121J). Quoted specs are:

Made of 5140 steel
45% stronger than pink rod
Shotpeened
3/8 ARP bolts
$339.95

I've been one who usually goes on the assumption "you get what you pay for" but,
if anyone has had any experience with these H&H rods I would be interested in
hearing about it. I would like to also know if anyone has any opinions on
any rods to stay away from.

I think the Chevy Pink rods would suffice for my motor however,
I believe some of the aftermarket rods are much stronger than the stock
Chevy Pink rod and are readily available for a little more money.

There has been some discussion about Warshawski's shipping habits however, I
live in the Chicago area and will probably be picking the parts up directly.


Thanx in advance,

Vic Smith
attmail!psp!vsmith

	69 Camaro
	67 Chevelle SS


----------
Posted by: emory!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!vsmith (victor.m.smith)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:28:19 1993
Subject: Re: Exhaust system tuning
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6834
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> When, in theory, if one could tune the header so that the next firing
-> cylinder's exhaust pulse arrived at the same time that the previous
-> exhaust pulse reached its lull, that cyl. will scavenge better due to
-> the dynamically negative pressure at the point that it enters the
-> collector.

 What you have to watch for is the volume of the exhaust gas "slug" vs.
the volume of each pipe.  If your Y pipes are short, you'd need to skip
a cylinder in the firing order between each pair.  I have the feeling
there are some *very* large fudge factors here.

 I used to doubt there was enough negative pressure to notice.  Then I
played around with my Mazda pickup, which uses an aspirator valve
instead of an air pump.  At idle, with muffler and catalytic convertor,
the sucker will try to draw blood if you put your finger over the intake
tube.  Wow!  I'd like to see some instrument readings of what happens at
higher RPMs.

 Smith's "Scientific Design of Intake and Exhaust Systems" mentions
negative pressure, but they were much more concerned with pressure waves
than with gas volume.  Weird.
                                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:33:43 1993
Subject: Re: AFBs (was Re: good and bad brands)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6835
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I have used various Carter and Edelbrock carbs but have never tried
> the Federal-Mogul "Carter" model.

I have both the old and new Carter styles.

> 
> I replaced the worn 625 CFM model with a new 9635 in about 1987.
> This carb didn't work well; it had a bog on throttle opening
> which the accelerator pump adjustments were never able to cure.
> 
> The biggest complaint that I have about the AFB type of carbs is
> that the accelerator pump doesn't have the wide range of adjustability
> that you get from Holley.  On the other hand, the AFB is so much
> easier to work with and the amount of money that you have to spend
> on accessory parts is so much less that I would use the AFB type in
> preference to the Holley anywhere that the AFB's accelerator pump was
> adequate.

Change the accelerator pump's injector (that squirter thingamabob ;-).
The strip kit has a few sizes, try a larger one, this worked for me.
(I have the 9635 on a Ford 302 w/ the Edelbrock performer intake).


   _/_/_/_/  _/     _/    _/       _/        Rick Colombo colombo@fnal.gov
  _/        _/_/   _/   _/ _/     _/        Fermi National Accelerator Lab
 _/_/_/    _/  _/ _/  _/_/_/_/   _/        Of course I speak for: Fermilab,
_/        _/     _/  _/     _/  _/_/_/_/  Congress and the President...NOT!

----------
Posted by: emory!dcd00.fnal.gov!colombo (Rick Colombo)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:39:02 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6836
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: On Nov 2, 13:13, The Hotrod List wrote:
: > Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
: >
: > -> On this note. People always ask me why I do business with speed shops
: > -> when these catalogs (Summit etc.) are available at a lesser cost.
: > ...
: > -> Just a shameless plug for your local neighborhood speed shop.
: >

: You probably have a hot street Chevy, don't you?  Occasional drag
: strip use, right?

No, three mustangs, two off-roaders (4x4), all Fords. I have 5 speed shops
within 20 minutes, two of which I deal with (after trying all five).
What I like is picking up the phone while I'm at work, and saying "Paul,
Steve here, I need an xyz, what do you recommend? What doesn't come back?"
Sometimes I know what I want, sometimes I need advise. Or, I might need
a source that really knows how to set up Dana 60's, or Windsor heads, the
people I build a relationship with at the speed shops often know the
right connections. 

And have you ever ordered x pushrods and gotten y ? I have. With a speed shop 
my worries stop at his counter, I have never been dissapointed (I do spend
a considerable amount of money though). And I get the best price the owner
is going to give, at least jobber, usually better.

: The problem I have here in Colorado Springs is that all of the speed
: shops are oriented towards Chevy drag racers.  When I say "road
: racing" they get a glazed look on their face.  When I say "Ford", they
: get an equally glazed look.  I've quit saying the two together since
: that usually causes fainting. So, I've quit going to the speed shops.
: I just mail order: Summit, JBA, Global West, PAW, Griggs, and
: Truesports.  (I avoid Kauffmann). For hand tools I go to Sears, for
: other tools I usually use Harbor Freight.

Don't get me wrong, I do a great amount of mail order too (with Mustangs
the sources are so specific, it makes sense) But I wouldn't give up the
relationships I have with the speed shops up for anything, 

--

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Steve D'Amelio  damelio@progress.com  |  69 Mustang 351W    Doing more than my
                                      |  70 Mustang 351C    part to reduce the
 #7 & #28                             |  88 Mustang 302     deficit.
                                      |  - 1,025hp -
                There's no replacement, for displacement.
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=

----------
Posted by: emory!elba.progress.COM!damelio (Stephen D'Amelio)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:45:00 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6837
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Question for you:  Can you _see_ civilization from your place, or are
-> you beyond that? :-)

 Certainly!  Where do you think I am, Mississippi?  The first run of
"Star Wars" starts next Friday.  I've heard a lot about it...


 Seriously, I don't think my situation is that unusual.  There are lots
of people who live in the Midwest who are further from civilization
than I am.
                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:49:57 1993
Subject: Re: HEI in a crower FI mainfold - will it fit?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6838
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Dave, are you saying I can replace the cam in a points dist. with the
-> reluctor from an HEI with "no effort"? Too, does the pickup share the
-> same mounting dimensions as a set of points? This would make my
-> day...Seems too easy though. (Dont need module cause I'm using
-> MSD6AL. Just need a cheap mag pickup.)

 The swap I did was for an odd-fire Buick motor in a Jeep, and an HEI
housing wouldn't clear the old-style intake.  In the distributors I
used, the paddle wheel was part of the upper shaft, or at least looked
like it.  Some come off, which would have been handy.  I removed the
circlip, lifted the upper shaft off the HEI, and dropped it in the Buick
distributor. Then I dropped the distributor back in, turned the engine
to TDC, and center-punched the mounting holes for the pickup.  A quick
pass with the drill and tap, and that was pretty well that.

 Given local junkyard price for an HEI is $90-$125, you might be better
off buying a new reluctor or upper shaft unless you already have an HEI
to scavenge.  The main shaft itself is only $30 or so from GM.  I had to
change a worn one once.
                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 21:55:30 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6839
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Path: silver.ucs.indiana.edu!jwlawren
From: jwlawren@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (john william lawrence)
Subject: Re: Tools (fwd)
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@usenet.ucs.indiana.edu (USENET News System)
Nntp-Posting-Host: silver.ucs.indiana.edu
Organization: Indiana University
References: 
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1993 20:56:58 GMT

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>If you're looking at old tools, the key words are "made in USA", drop-forged,
>or chrome-vanadium.  The good brands like Proto don't need to hype up their
>tools, they sell on their reputation alone.  The better quality tools usually
>are lighter weight and easier to fit into tight locations.  They use superior
>steel and hardening/tempering to get the strength rather than massive amounts
>of cheap soft steel.  The made-in-China open-end wrenches have massive steel
>heads, but they bend and spread open if you torque on them.
> 
>Tom
>
>----------
>Posted by: Tom Carver 
> 
>
>In 1960 my dad gave me my first set of tools which included a mixed set
>of 3/8 sockets that included a ratchet.  He had bought that ratchet in
>the '30s.  All that it says on this ratchet is Proto Chrome-vanadium. 
>He used it for 25 years and now I've used it for 33 more years.  It's my only
>3/8 drive and I still have many of those sockets.  I used the ratchet
>last weekend when I swapped trannies.
>
>Good tools will last longer than you do.
>Buy 'em and try not to lose 'em. 
>tom root
>
>
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)

To: sargent@westford.ccur.com
Subject: Re: Wiring Diagrams
Newsgroups: rec.autos.rod-n-custom
In-Reply-To: 
Organization: Indiana University
Cc: 
Bcc: 


  I just happen to own a 1970 Cutlass S as well as the Chassis Service Manual.
If you like, I'd be happy to send you the wiring diagram. It is, I believe,
in full color. I hate to be cheap, but I would appreciate being reimbersed for
the price of the copies since color copying around here is aroud $2-$3 a page
(I'd send the store's receipt). 
  I'd really like to hear about your car - I'm an Olds fan, and I hope to get 
a '68-'72 442 when I get out of college.
  If you don't already belong, you might want to join the Oldsmobile Club of
America. For about $25 a year you get a membership and a subscription to their
magazine, which has a lot of classified ads concerning Cultass Supremes/442s
from the '68-'72 era. I'll give you details if you want.

  Good Luck With Your Olds,

  John                                      _______
                                           |   |   |
1961 Cutlass "Rockette" 215 V8             |   |   |
1970 Cutlass "Rocket"   350 V8             |   |   |
                                           |  /|\  |
"Dr. Oldsmobile"                           |/ _|_ \|



----------
Posted by: USENET News System 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 22:04:03 1993
Subject: H&H connecting rods question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6840
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I am in the middle of building a blown (B&M 162, under the hood type) Chevy 350
to put in my Camaro.  My next purchase is going to be connecting rods. Summit
& Jegs have comparible rods all between 500 - 600 dollars. They are all new
rods, shot peened, ARP bolts, etc.

Warshawsky has a set of H&H race craft rods they call the "pink plus" rod
(page 4 of Metro Catalog No. 121J). Quoted specs are:

Made of 5140 steel
45% stronger than pink rod
Shotpeened
3/8 ARP bolts
$339.95

I've been one who usually goes on the assumption "you get what you pay for" but,
if anyone has had any experience with these H&H rods I would be interested in
hearing about it. I would like to also know if anyone has any opinions on
any rods to stay away from.

I think the Chevy Pink rods would suffice for my motor however,
I believe some of the aftermarket rods are much stronger than the stock
Chevy Pink rod and are readily available for a little more money.

There has been some discussion about Warshawski's shipping habits however, I
live in the Chicago area and will probably be picking the parts up directly.


Thanx in advance,

Vic Smith
attmail!psp!vsmith

	69 Camaro
	67 Chevelle SS


----------
Posted by: emory!cbnewsg.cb.att.com!vsmith (victor.m.smith)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 22:10:11 1993
Subject: Supercharger questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6841
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi all.  Well, now that winter is here (or damn close around here! :) ) and
the car is sitting in the garage, I have time to figure out what to do to it
for next year, and I was thinking of supercharging it.  So, I have a few
general questions:

1) Anyone know if Paxton or Vortech make under-the-hood superchargers for
carbureted engines?  I know Vortech makes the one for TPI's and newer Ford's,
but I am looking for a bolt on to a Holley carb on a SB Chevy.  If these
two don't make one anyone know someplace that does?  (Hood clearance is a
factor here.)  Also, does anyone have the addresses/phone #'s of these
manufacturers?  (I've looked at B&M, but it will raise the carb too much.)

2) What compression ratio should I be looking for to supercharge?  I was 
thinking of getting new heads to replace my DART S/R heads (I was looking
at the DART II's from Summit Racing) but, as I think they may be the large
chamber heads (76-78cc?), with my TRW Flattops, they should be about 9.0:1
comp ratio (if they are 78 or 80cc, even less.)  Is this too much compression,
or will this work?  If this will work, I may stick with them for now, and
replace them later with large chamber DART II's to get better flow and keep
the comp. ratio approximately the same.

3) On the subject of compression ratios:  How do you figure out exact ratios,
given that you know bore, stroke, cc of combustion chamber, dish on the piston
and size of the valve reliefs?  I've been trying to figure out the math, but
haven't had much luck (although I admit I haven't spent that much time on
it yet.)

4) Camshaft recommendations?  I was thinking of just dropping on on the engine
as it is now and seeing how it responds to what is there, but have been
thinking of changing the cam anyway...

Thanks!!!

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov  4 22:15:23 1993
Subject: Re: magazine Schlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6842
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

HOTROD@DIXIE.COM (The Hotrod List) schrieb unter 'Re: magazine Schlock':

> Yeah, I know what you mean about the 'fainting' effect.  Around here, whenever
> I walk into a place (with 1 exception - but I went to high school with the
> guy) they already know what I want, even if I don't.  What I mean is that if
> I ask for a specific part, they come up with:  "What year car?  What size
> engine?  A/C?  Hmm, it doesn't list that part as fitting that car...  How
> 'bout some fancy steering wheel cover instead?"

You're all sooo lucky. When I go into the local auto parts "store", or even
99.999% of all german auto part stores, the dialog goes more like this:

- What'cha need?
: a [put in any common part's name and/or number]
- A WHAT? For what car?
: A Dodge Polara
- WHAT car? Where's that from?
: USA
- America? Must be eating like a hundred litres per mile, harharhar...
: Very funny. Do you have it or not?
- Ok,ok, so, what year?
: 1966
- NINE - TEEN - SIX - TY - SIX? We only carry parts from 1985 to 1993,
  and besides, we don't carry your car's brand at all. Maybe you better
  get yourself a [put in the name of some rice burner or german micro car].

Grrrrr :-(

But, at least the tools are *really* good over here. The good stuff is
expensive, too, but it's really good. Try to find GEDORE or HAZET, your
grandson will still work with it...

Mike


----------
Posted by: emory!heather.hanse.de!m.grube (Michael Grube)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Thu Nov  4 22:48:52 1993
Subject: adjusting the valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6843
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



  Finished an engine swap of the GM 5.7 HO crate motor recently.

  Runs great, but there is enough lifter clatter to remind me of my
old BSA 650 on a cold morning. Obviously, they are too loose.

  ANy recommendations about setting the valves? Engine warmed up
or cold? quarter turn, half turn or three quarter turn additional
after zero lash?

  It's got an aggressive (GM) cam, and roller hydraulic lifters, if
that makes any difference...any advice appreciated.

Lee K. Gleason N5ZMR
Control-G Consultants
gleason@mwk.com

----------
Posted by: "Lee K. Gleason" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 05:43:22 1993
Subject: Re: adjusting the valves
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6844
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <7zv1#nl@dixie.com>, The Hotrod List  wrote:
>
>
>  Finished an engine swap of the GM 5.7 HO crate motor recently.
>
>  Runs great, but there is enough lifter clatter to remind me of my
>old BSA 650 on a cold morning. Obviously, they are too loose.

It's better than them being too tight...
:)

>  ANy recommendations about setting the valves? Engine warmed up
>or cold? quarter turn, half turn or three quarter turn additional
>after zero lash?

I;ve never been able to find two people in the same place who agreed
on this.  The GM manual says to set 'em statically by feeling for
drag on the pushrod...  I've never had much luck that way.  
Last time I set the ones on the my truck (Crower hydraulic roller)
I set 'em at 3/8's of a turn after the double click stopped (although
3/8 is more like 1/4 to 1/2, about as exact as I could get).  Do it
with the engine warm and be sure the lifters are fully bled.  Twice I've
set 'em only to have the engine to fully warm up later and have valves
hanging open (actually, I didn't set em the first time either time, just
the last).


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 12:44:42 1993
Subject: Re: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6845
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------
X-Sun-Data-Type: text
X-Sun-Data-Description: text
X-Sun-Data-Name: text
X-Sun-Content-Lines: 14

> 
> Can anyone suggest a place that sells Dart II Chevy heads
> at a good price?  I looked in the Summit catalog and they
> only had Ford heads listed :-(  (not that I'm bashing Fords;
> I need a set of heads for a Chevy).  Thanks.
> 
> Bob Hale           hale@brooktree.com
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
>
	Look closer, they have them. Also try Aerohead (advertises in 
the back of super chevy, etc...) They used to sell them complete for
$850 delivered. I dont know what current prices are...
----------
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X-Sun-Data-Name: .signature
X-Sun-Content-Lines: 5


--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 12:49:15 1993
Subject: RE: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6846
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Can anyone suggest a place that sells Dart II Chevy heads
>at a good price?  I looked in the Summit catalog and they
>only had Ford heads listed :-(  (not that I'm bashing Fords;
>I need a set of heads for a Chevy).  Thanks.


Jegs at 1-800-345-4545 sells the Dart Heads
The new name for Dart is "World Products"

Bare iron heads are $277.99  aluminum are $537.99 each - Summer '93
Assembled are $427.99 and $687 respectively.

Summit also sells the Dart heads but they do some flow work on them (YMMV).
They go under the name "Summit Machine shop heads"  If you read the text 
they say they start with DartII heads.

Assebled heads from Jegs have SS valves "heavy duty springs", 7 deg keepers
, hardened locks, screw in studs, and guide plates.  Most local machine 
shops and speed shops will match the assembled price.  I kinda want to know 
exactly what parts are going into my motor - esp when spending real money.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 12:53:48 1993
Subject: RE: where to find Dart II's
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6847
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Bob, After reading your letter, I took a look thru my Summit catalog.
They have Dart II iron sbc Chevy heads for $1000 complete and  with ss 2.05"
valves. They are ported and the exhaust ports have been reshaped to produce
70-80 % of the intake flow.

Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 13:14:49 1993
Subject: Supercharger questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6848
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> 1) Anyone know if Paxton or Vortech make under-the-hood superchargers
-> for carbureted engines?  I know Vortech makes the one for TPI's and

 Dunno about Vortech, but Paxton goes 'way back.  They used to make
blower kits for Packards and Studebakers, and their universal
aftermarket kits used nifty cast aluminum pressure bonnets to enclose
the carb.  All the Paxton installations I've ever seen were
blow-through.
                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 13:26:08 1993
Subject: does this still exist???
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6849
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I haven't heard anything from here in a while - is this
still active????

if so, please put me back on the list

thanks

sharen

----------
Posted by: emory!zuni.litc.lockheed.com!sharen (Sharen A. Rund)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 13:33:48 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-41*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6850
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello all,

I'm sorry for being so late with this issue. Something particularly
nasty must have struck our system earlier today. It's been down for
several hours.  Anyway, I'll try to get this out while it's up.

Cheers - Bill
----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (T)    11/05    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Suzuka)          11/05    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
NASCAR SPORTSMAN SERIES, NASHVILLE (T)11/05    8:00-10:00PM     ESPN
NASCAR Shop Talk w/Eli Gold           11/05    10:00-10:30PM    ESPN
SpeedWeek                             11/06    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty (demo derbies)11/06    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (2-cycle engines)  11/06    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (demo derbies)11/06    1:00-1:30PM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              11/06    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               11/06    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              11/06    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      11/06    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, ROCKINGHAM (T)              11/06    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
IHRA, PRESIDENT'S CUP, BUDD'S CREEK(T)11/07    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
MotorWeek                             11/07    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
America On The Road                   11/07    2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             11/07    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, ADELAIDE, OZ (SD)          11/07    8:00-10:00AM  TSN,ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               11/07    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              11/07    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Emerson Fittipaldi)          11/07    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              11/07    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      11/07    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           11/07   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP PIT CREW RACE (T)  11/07    12:00-12:30PM    TNN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (L)                 11/07    2:00-4:00PM      TNN
NHRA, CHIEF NATIONALS, DALLAS (T)     11/07    4:30-5:30PM      HTS*
Shadetree Mechanic (2-cycle engines)  11/07    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
RaceDay Update w/Pat Patterson (L)    11/07    6:00-6:05PM      TNN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)11/07    6:05-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              11/07    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      11/07    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           11/07    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP PIT CREW RACE (T)  11/07    9:00-9:30PM      TNN
Winners (Emerson Fittipaldi)          11/07    9:30-10:00PM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (2-cycle engines)  11/07    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      11/07    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              11/07   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/07   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               11/08    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (demo derbies)11/08    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
FORMULA 1, ADELAIDE, OZ (T)           11/08    3:00-5:00AM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 11/08    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/09    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/10    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, LAGUNA SECA (T)      11/10    2:30-3:30PM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Adelaide)        11/10    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/11    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/11    3:30-4:00AM      MTV
Motor Sports Hour                     11/11    12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
SODA, OFF-ROAD RACING, CRANDON (T)    11/11    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Suzuka)          11/11    2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
Prime Time Motorsports                11/11    3:00-3:30PM      HTS*
MotorWeek (Mustang & Porch 911)       11/11    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Cycle World                           11/11    8:30-9:30PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     11/11    9:30-10:30PM     HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                11/11    10:30-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR w/Eli Gold (L)    11/11   11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
NHRA, BUD SHOOTOUT, INDY (T)          11/12    12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
AMA, GRAND NATIONAL, POMONA (T)       11/12    12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/12    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             11/12    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             11/12    1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
ARCA, ATLANTA (L)                     11/12    2:00-4:30PM      ESPN
IHRA, FALL NATIONALS, BRISTOL (T)     11/12    8:30-9:30PM      ESPN
IHBA, DRAG BOATS, BAKERSFIELD (T)     11/13    1:30-2:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

WINSTON CUP, ROCKINGHAM (T)           11/13    1:00-2:30PM      TNN
ARCA, ATLANTA (T)                     11/14    12:00AM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, HOOTERS 500, ATLANTA (L) 11/14    12:30PM          ESPN
AMA, CAMEL CLASSIC II, LOUDON (T)     11/14    2:00-3:25PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  11/14    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS (T)         11/14    9:00-10:30PM     TNN
WINSTON CUP, PHOENIX (T)              11/20    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
Hydroplane Racing, Pearl Harbor (T)   11/21    1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  11/21    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA, SPORTSNATIONALS, BANDIMERE (T)  11/21    9:00-10:30PM     TNN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (T)                 11/27    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
KNOXVILLE NATIONALS SHOOTOUT (T)      11/28    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  11/28    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NASCAR Awards Banquet (L)             12/03    9:00PM           ESPN
BMW VINTAGE, LIME ROCK (T)            12/04    12:00PM          ESPN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/05    6:00-7:30PM      TNN

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 13:42:01 1993
Subject: Re: HEI in a crower FI mainfold - will it fit?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6851
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave W. sez:
> The swap I did was for an odd-fire Buick motor in a Jeep, and an HEI
>housing wouldn't clear the old-style intake.  In the distributors I
>used, the paddle wheel was part of the upper shaft, or at least looked
>like it.  Some come off, which would have been handy.  I removed the
>circlip, lifted the upper shaft off the HEI, and dropped it in the Buick
>distributor. Then I dropped the distributor back in, turned the engine
>to TDC, and center-punched the mounting holes for the pickup.  A quick
>pass with the drill and tap, and that was pretty well that.
>
> Given local junkyard price for an HEI is $90-$125, you might be better
>off buying a new reluctor or upper shaft unless you already have an HEI
>to scavenge.  The main shaft itself is only $30 or so from GM.  I had to
>change a worn one once.

Sheeeeeeeeeeeeeeit Dave!  I can get HEIs all day long for $30 a pop!
You must live in the sticks...  or maybe I live in the sticks... whatever!
This sounds like an interesting conversion.  No more paying top $$ for
unilite distributors.  
This brings up another idea: You know that since you would be setting the
pickup relationship, you could optimize the signal at say 35 degrees
BTDC to be in the perfect alignment of the rotor button and cap contacts.
Or, you could make the mounting location of the pickup adjustable so
that it could be tuned one way or the other.  I have known people so
anal as to mark and move the exact location of the distributor cap to
optimize this alignment.

Considering the juice of a good coil in conjunction with an MSD box,
this optimization probably wouldn't be worth it...   What the hell though,
maybe one of these cold rainy weekends I will do some experimenting!

Latur,
jC.
_________________________________________________________
James C. Akers         FiberCom, Inc.        Roanoke, VA
jca@fibercom.com     uunet!fibercom!jca     (703)342-6700

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 13:46:34 1993
Subject: Re: AFBs (was Re: good and bad brands)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6852
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I wrote:
>> I replaced the worn 625 CFM model with a new 9635 in about 1987.
>> This carb didn't work well; it had a bog on throttle opening
>> which the accelerator pump adjustments were never able to cure.

and Rick Colombo replied:
>Change the accelerator pump's injector (that squirter thingamabob ;-).
>The strip kit has a few sizes, try a larger one, this worked for me.
>(I have the 9635 on a Ford 302 w/ the Edelbrock performer intake).

I must apologize; I didn't phrase my comments very well.  I tried
all of the shooter nozzles and all of the pump settings; I consider
"the accelerator pump adjustments" to include both.  Even drilling
out the largest nozzles as large as they would go didn't ever make
that carb right.

I suspect that there was something else, aside from the accelerator
pump system, wrong in that carb.

Bob hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 14:07:16 1993
Subject: Re: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6853
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yeah,...Get a ford and then you can achieve real performance...........
                       RJD


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Posted by: emory!sparc55.esl.com!e08405 (Richard Doughty MS-110)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov  5 19:46:46 1993
Subject: Re: Exhaust system tuning
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6855
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod you write:

>I have the feeling there are some *very* large fudge factors here.
				   ^^^^^^
I'm trying to gather opinions about how much fudge there is to fact.
I see what you mean by skipping a slot if the tubes are short enough.
I think I need more Vannillan :-)

> Smith's "Scientific Design of Intake and Exhaust Systems" mentions
>negative pressure, but they were much more concerned with pressure waves
>than with gas volume.  Weird.

Most VW dragsters run their crankcase vent tube to the begining of the
mega-phone right after the collector where velocity is highest... sucks
the case vapor-dry.


ps- what's the author's full name on that book?

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)
You know an exam didn't go well when, afterward, you find yourself mumbling...

		_____ You want fries with that? ______

----------
Posted by: David Johnson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov  6 01:45:41 1993
Subject: Re: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6856
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I put a pair of the DART II, Winsor Jr heads on my Ford 351W.

	During the machining phase of this engine build, we found
sharp edges in the DART II combustion chamber that could lead to creating
hot spots.

Basically, where DART plunges the valve faces at initial machining for the
intake & exhaust this creates two arcs of metal with a spined ridge.  Like
two overlapping circles, where the circles meet creates these two sharp
ridges. ...  I had these ground down (back) and the heads CC(d)  at the same
time to prevent a forseable problem of pre-ignition of a fuel/air charge.

	I don't intend any ownus on DART or to cast dispersions
in their general direction.  This was just a precautionary measure taken
in light of the 'Prudent Man' rule.  I like these heads fine and they fit
my application for flow and form factor.

	Best regards to all,

	Gary Clark  xgkc@node_9601.sc.ti.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wotangate.sc.ti.com!root (Operator)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov  6 10:48:07 1993
Subject: Re: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6857
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>Yeah,...Get a ford and then you can achieve real performance...........
>                       RJD
>Posted by: emory!sparc55.esl.com!e08405 (Richard Doughty MS-110)

Anyone else counting the days till John gets back?


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov  6 10:54:11 1993
Subject: Re: Supercharger questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6858
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>
>-> 1) Anyone know if Paxton or Vortech make under-the-hood superchargers
>-> for carbureted engines?  I know Vortech makes the one for TPI's and
>
> Dunno about Vortech, but Paxton goes 'way back.  They used to make
>blower kits for Packards and Studebakers, and their universal
>aftermarket kits used nifty cast aluminum pressure bonnets to enclose
>the carb.  All the Paxton installations I've ever seen were
>blow-through.

I've heard that Vortech was formed by a few former Paxton people.
In my only experience with Paxton about 3 years ago, they didn't
even want to talk to anyone who wasn't buying one of their off the shelf
everything you need kits (like for 5.0 Stangs and TPI Camaros).
Custom setup?  "We don't have anything for that application ".
YMMV...



-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov  6 11:01:19 1993
Subject: Re: Where to find DART II heads?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6859
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
>>Yeah,...Get a ford and then you can achieve real performance...........
>>                       RJD
>>Posted by: emory!sparc55.esl.com!e08405 (Richard Doughty MS-110)

>Anyone else counting the days till John gets back?

>Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)

Sorry about this, guys.  This is the downside of running on auto and
on alt.hotrod.  I'm busily working away in my motel room on some remote 
list admin software. (did I ever tell ya how much I hate software!!!!)

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                   | For a free sample magazine, send
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM)     | a digest-size 52 cent SASE 
Marietta, Ga     "Hotrods'n'computers"   | (Domestic) to PO Box 669728
jgd@dixie.com    "What could be better?" | Marietta, GA 30066
Email to me may be published at my sole discretion.

----------
Posted by: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov  7 03:28:46 1993
Subject: Wanted: Pre-76 454 Chevy motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6860
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Wanted: Pre 1976 454 Chevy Motor
Will take an entire car with this engine.  Prefer just the engine.

Contact:

Glenn Stauffer
stauffer@cc.swarthmore.edu

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Posted by: emory!cc.swarthmore.edu!stauffer (R Glenn Stauffer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov  7 13:38:02 1993
Subject: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6861
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


        Oh well. It happened again. I wasn't allowed to put the nice,
        little 580cid twin turbo aluminium engine into my Vette
        ( .. 'U said 9.5 liters?! And TURBOCHARGED? No way, that can't
        be registered, 15lbs per hp is the absolute limit and that
        won't make it - install your original LS-6 if you want but not
        THAT engine!' .. :-( ) and now I'm looking for options.
           A few months ago I read about a chevy big block with
        superhigh deck height (over 11" ?!) and maximum displacement
        of ~730-770cid. I think it was made by World Products and
        called Superblock or something. Now I need all available
        information about it, availability, stroker cranks (5.6"?),
        conrods, pistons, accessories, everything....
        If you know something about it reply or email me:
        heku@muncca.fi
        All help is much appreciated!
 
--
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 05:16:20 1993
Subject: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6862
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



  Henri,

  ".fi" is the Internet address for Finland, isn?t it? If I?m right, I
  think you might have read a Swedish mag about the "Bjursas-Camaro"
  sporting an ungodly big block from Dart with pretty much the dimensions
  you mentioned (I?m not sure about the 11" deck height however). That
  Swedish team has connections and picked casting number 001 of a special
  block manufactured by Dart (the head makers) in the USA and are running
  7.8?s at over 170 mph with nitrous oxide in Swedish street legal trim
  (except for the slicks!). Their engine displaces somewhere around 710"+,
  but as I understand it, thre could be lot?s more if you wish. If you want
  to learn more about that engine, go to the newsstand and look for the
  latest issue of the Swedish "Wheels Magazine". (If you cant find that
  issue, call Wheels in Sweden for a backissue at +46 (0)8 756 73 75).
  Otherwise, contact the good people of Dart. I have no address or phone
  number, but our friends at hotrod@dixie.com can surely help you out with
  that information.

  Reg?s
  Par Willen
  _____________
  WILLEN@LOTUS.SE

       Oh well. It happened again. I wasn't allowed to put the nice,
       little 580cid twin turbo aluminium engine into my Vette
       ( .. 'U said 9.5 liters?! And TURBOCHARGED? No way, that can't
       be registered, 15lbs per hp is the absolute limit and that
       won't make it - install your original LS-6 if you want but not
       THAT engine!' .. :-( ) and now I'm looking for options.
          A few months ago I read about a chevy big block with
       superhigh deck height (over 11" ?!) and maximum displacement
       of ~730-770cid. I think it was made by World Products and
       called Superblock or something. Now I need all available information
       about it, availability, stroker cranks (5.6"?),
       conrods, pistons, accessories, everything....
       If you know something about it reply or email me:
       heku@muncca.fi
       All help is much appreciated!

--
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 

----------
Posted by: emory!Mail.SWIP.net!LOTUSINT!Pr.Willn
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 14:20:34 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6863
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>         Oh well. It happened again. I wasn't allowed to put the nice,
>         little 580cid twin turbo aluminium engine into my Vette
>         ( .. 'U said 9.5 liters?! And TURBOCHARGED? No way, that can't
>         be registered, 15lbs per hp is the absolute limit and that
>         won't make it - install your original LS-6 if you want but not
>         THAT engine!' .. :-( ) 

I don't get it. What is 'U? 15 lbs/hp? It seems as if some stock cars
(meaning as delivered from the factory) would exceed that by a fair margin.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 14:26:07 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6864
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>            A few months ago I read about a chevy big block with
>         superhigh deck height (over 11" ?!) and maximum displacement
>         of ~730-770cid. I think it was made by World Products and
>         called Superblock or something. Now I need all available
>         information about it, availability, stroker cranks (5.6"?),
>         conrods, pistons, accessories, everything....
>         If you know something about it reply or email me:
>         heku@muncca.fi
>         All help is much appreciated!
>  

	CAR CRAFT had a full article on that engine, a few issues back if you 
want more info than that Finland mag.  World Products is based in Long Island,
New York I believe.  If nobody else can get you the info, I can dig out for
you.


-Mark
  frouharf@acf2.nyu.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!acf2.NYU.EDU!frouharf (frouharf)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 17:57:26 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6865
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>   Henri,
> 
>   ".fi" is the Internet address for Finland, isn?t it? If I?m right, I
>   think you might have read a Swedish mag about the "Bjursas-Camaro"

	Yep, .fi = Finland and yes, again, I *have* heard about that
	Camaro - I haven't read articles but a friend of mine told
	me about it. 

>   sporting an ungodly big block from Dart with pretty much the dimensions
>   you mentioned (I?m not sure about the 11" deck height however). That
>   Swedish team has connections and picked casting number 001 of a special
>   block manufactured by Dart (the head makers) in the USA and are running
>   7.8?s at over 170 mph with nitrous oxide in Swedish street legal trim
>   (except for the slicks!). Their engine displaces somewhere around 710"+,
>   but as I understand it, thre could be lot?s more if you wish.

	Actually we're talking about the same block here - Dart/Merlin is
	a trademark of World Products INC. and they manufacture these
	monster blocks. I first read about it in Car Craft magazine 
	(June...August issue I think?) and the only thing that kept me
	from ordering one was the 580cid aluminium engine.
	Now that engine is history (*sigh* ... I have to install it into
	a boat or something...) I *need* one. (Even if the original
	engine is LS-6, it's too lame ;-)

>   If you want
>   to learn more about that engine, go to the newsstand and look for the
>   latest issue of the Swedish "Wheels Magazine". (If you cant find that
>   issue, call Wheels in Sweden for a backissue at +46 (0)8 756 73 75).
>   Otherwise, contact the good people of Dart. I have no address or phone
>   number, but our friends at hotrod@dixie.com can surely help you out with
>   that information.

	The address (or phone/fax numbers) would be cool. I have some
	issues of Wheels magazine but probably not the one with that
	article. Hmm... I'll have to raid a bookstore or something :)

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 18:56:50 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6866
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> I don't get it. What is 'U? 15 lbs/hp? It seems as if some stock cars
> (meaning as delivered from the factory) would exceed that by a fair margin.

	(Oops.. 'U' = 'you' ...too much IRC lately :) 
	That 15lbs /hp is the limit for all modifications here - if you
	want a better ratio the car can't be registered, UNLESS that
	kind of engine has been available for the model series.
	(ie. if you want to put a 426 Hemi into your 'Cuda it's okay
	if you upgrade brakes, suspension etc. too but if you want to
	install it into a Dodge Daytona it isn't allowed since the
	engine hadn't been available for that car..)
	Tuning engines up isn't controlled that much, you can install
	just about anything you want, even if the parts aren't 
	emissions legal. If your car is, for example, turbocharged
	you can add boost, change injectors, chips (EFI etc.).
	Installing turbochargers, superchargers or nitrous is considered
	as an engine swap (legally...) and that's where the legislation
	kicks in. *sigh*
	When I spoke to the chief engineer of department of motor vehicles
	in Finland he said that 'If we had something to say about it there
	wouldn't be no cars with power-to-weight -ratio under 15lbs /hp
	registered in this country...'
	That sucks BIG TIME! If I want 1000+ turbocharged, fuel injected,
	'environmentally clean' (reduced emissions) horsepowers, I can't
	do it, but if I want 1000+ naturally aspirated, carburated
	horsepowers which have never heard of emission standards or fuel
	economy, it's perfectly legal? F**K THE SYSTEM! :-(

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 19:01:49 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6867
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> 	CAR CRAFT had a full article on that engine, a few issues back if you 
> want more info than that Finland mag.  World Products is based in Long Island,
> New York I believe.  If nobody else can get you the info, I can dig out for
> you.

	Thanks, I found the issue last night and now my gf. complains that
	I don nothing but read the article :)
	I couldn't find the address of World Products though.. :(

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 19:17:16 1993
Subject: Re: Urethane vs. Delrin bushings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6868
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Delron is available in a number of hardnesses (durometer ratings) and
could be anywhere from soft rubber to nylon-rock hard.  I would hope
global west made an intelligent streetable selection.  I would try
calling them and asking.  That's what I am going to do (I have a 90 mustang
myself).  By the way the additional racecraft rear anti-roll bar is the best
addition I have made to my car.  The car is now neutral instead of plowing
like a boat.  The only problem is I can't loan the car out because inexperienced
people might spin it.

----------
Posted by: guziec philip robert 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov  8 19:26:04 1993
Subject: Re: Supercharger questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6869
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I know that Paxton makes kits for carburated engines, they just put a big
pressurized box around the carb.  I makes adjustments a real pain in the
ass since you need to take the box off every time.  Compression ratios that
you can run depend on boost, ignition advance, and fuel.  You can probably
run 9:1 if you keep the boost down to 6 or 7 psi.  Try backing off the timing
to start with and then slowly advancing while listening for trouble
(detonation).  You can also hook up your advance canister in reverse somehow
(see Turbocharging by Hugh McGinness or Super Power from Classic Motorbooks)
to give boost retard.

----------
Posted by: guziec philip robert 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  9 13:43:26 1993
Subject: Re: Urethane vs. Delrin bushings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6870
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Delron is available in a number of hardnesses (durometer ratings) and
>could be anywhere from soft rubber to nylon-rock hard.  I would hope
>global west made an intelligent streetable selection.  I would try
>calling them and asking.  That's what I am going to do (I have a 90 mustang
>myself).  By the way the additional racecraft rear anti-roll bar is the best
>addition I have made to my car.  The car is now neutral instead of plowing
>like a boat.  The only problem is I can't loan the car out because inexperienced
>people might spin it.

The global west bushings sandwitched between steel sleaves.  This allows 
very little movement in any dirrection but pivoting on axis.  Since the 
primary impacts that the bushings see is a twisting one I suspect the ride 
would not be that bad.  Herb Adams VSE claimed it was similar to riding 
with 5 psi too much pressure.  On a corvette using a these bushings + the 
complete Rancho system it road very similar to an IROC camaro.

As far as reducing understeer on a mustang - the first thing to try is more 
negative camber on the front - for the street try -1 deg for the track try 
-3 deg.  Stiffening the back of the mustang should be done causiously - 
With all the body lean the mustang tends to pick up the inside rear tire - 
causing it to spin - which in turn really puts pressure on the posi 
unit.  From what I can gather the big problem with the stang is the low 
roll center in the front - coupled with a heavy forward bias - that means 
that and high -g turns produce alot of roll in the front.  Now if the rear 
axle can't allow the same amount of roll you end up picking up a tire...

I heard someone on the mustang mailing list actually say the roll center up 
front is below the road surface...  If this is true - to control the roll 
you need stiff springs / sway bars - which in turn leads to understeer...

Question:

How do you calculated the roll center on a MacPherson struct car?  Assuming 
the top of the struts are solidly mounted (which they aren't in the 'stang)

Also what can be done to chang it? - relocating frame mounting of the a-arm
?

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  9 14:49:59 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6871
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>
>> I don't get it. What is 'U? 15 lbs/hp? It seems as if some stock cars
>> (meaning as delivered from the factory) would exceed that by a fair margin.
>
>	(Oops.. 'U' = 'you' ...too much IRC lately :) 
>	That 15lbs /hp is the limit for all modifications here - if you
>	want a better ratio the car can't be registered, UNLESS that
>	kind of engine has been available for the model series.
>[...]
>	When I spoke to the chief engineer of department of motor vehicles
>	in Finland he said that 'If we had something to say about it there
>	wouldn't be no cars with power-to-weight -ratio under 15lbs /hp
>	registered in this country...'

	What is the rationale for this inane law?

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I still need a racebike.              I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov  9 16:40:17 1993
Subject: World/Merlin
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6872
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Is there any relationship between Merlin products and the Rolls Royce Merlin
airplane engine?

I've seen a few wild dragsters with Rolls Royce Merlin Engines in 'em (or
maybe they were Allison airplane engines).  There was a '34 Ford sedan with a
radically chopped top and either a Merlin or Allison airplane engine in it. 
The engine took up so much room, the driver had to poke his head through a
little hole in the hood.  The Rolls Royce Merlin and the Allisons were used
in P-51 fighter planes in WW-II.  

I've seen and heard a speed boat with a Rolls Royce Merlin engine in it at
Lake Tahoe.  It's one of the best sounding engines I've ever heard!  It's a
supercharged V-12 with something like 1200 horsepower.  They sound great in
the P-51s and P-38s I've seen at airshows, but they sound even better in
speed boats.  I would love to see one in a car in person (and hear it)!

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 10 10:57:01 1993
Subject: Synthetics - SAVE
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6873
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Friends,

Most of you are familiar with synthetic lubricants and many likely use them. For 
$6.00 you can become an Amsoil Dealer and order the stuff at wholesale prices. 
Besides oils, gear oils and lubricants they also make air- and oil filters.
There is no catch, no required quota, no need for a company. There products are 
of a very high quality.
I paid my $6.00, and more than made up for it with my first order. 
Please send me your questions by private email to denys@a1.isd.upmc.edu.

Bart

----------
Posted by: Bart Denys 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 10 10:58:07 1993
Subject: Aluminum bushings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6874
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

When looking at the bushings on my '75 Camaro I noticed that the 
body mountings ( the ones that connect he subframe to the rest of
the car ) are badly worn. Actually there so lousy I'm surprised 
that the car is still in one piece!

The mounting looks like this:

    ===============|   |====================    Body 
       |           |   |             | <------  Upper bushing
       |_______    |   |    _________|
    ===========|___|   |___|=================   Subframe
        -----------|   |-------------
       |           |   |             |  <-----  Lower bushing
       |___________|   |_____________|
        -----------|   |-------------   <-----  Washer
                 |       |
                 |_______| <------------------  Bolt

These bushing are big $$$$! I asked GM... $150!!!! NO WAY. 

That made me think...What's stopping me from making these bushings
out of a chunk of aluminium? I would need aluminum for about $40, and
handling should improve as the subframe gets tighter to the body.

So, dudes and dudettes...Any wisdom on this? Maybe some of you already
tried this?

Any input welcome.

Markus 

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 10 13:43:52 1993
Subject: RE: Aluminum bushings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6875
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I believe you can get poly urathane bushings as well.

I think Moroso used to make aluminum bushings

Herb Adams VSE has (or is that had) a front end lowering kit - this was 
achieved by using smaller aluminum bushings with a thin layer of rubber to 
keep the squeeks down - it was $34 direct - their phone number was (408)422
-2006 in Salinas, Ca.  They also have stiffening kit that reduce the front 
end vs rest of body flex.

I don't know if there still around but you can get some of their products 
through Summit (Moroso owns Herb Adams VSE)

I've heard the quality is good - might be interesting to get their handling 
book.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 10 13:57:35 1993
Subject: Re:  Aluminum bushings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6876
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is simple.

Aluminum has problems with galvanic corrosion.  Use hockey pucks.
Stiff, no corrosion.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 11 10:16:11 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6877
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> >	When I spoke to the chief engineer of department of motor vehicles
> >	in Finland he said that 'If we had something to say about it there
> >	wouldn't be no cars with power-to-weight -ratio under 15lbs /hp
> >	registered in this country...'
> 
> 	What is the rationale for this inane law?

	I wish I knew! On my opinion 98% of the bureaucrats should
	be shot (shooting a few for a warning example isn't enough!),
	including all the traffic department officials, a few
	parlament members and everyone who has had anything to do
	with automobile legislation.
	They're trying to:
	1) Make the traffic safe
	2) Give the cops a chance to catch someone (I've outran quite
	   a few during last few years :)
	3) Ban everything that is even remotely fun
	So far they haven't succeeded in anything but #3.

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 11 10:22:48 1993
Subject: COP FUN (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6878
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

There's at least one reader of this list who will appreciate this
repost.

> From: dlpearce@eos.ncsu.edu
> 
> In my hometown, some one owned a Buick GNX Turbo (yep, not a mopar, but very
> fast all the same) which could outrun everything including those $5000 digital
> Motorola com. systems. I was in bed one night when I first heard of a car
> chase. All of a sudden there was this deep bass rattling the house windows,
> then the beautiful sound of that turbo 3.8 singin' its tune. Then about
> 30 seconds later, sirens from the Highway Patrol - the whole troop that is.
> He was leavin' them in the dust. They never caught the guy I found out the 
> next morning. All of the law enforcement in our county was in on it too. He
> outran 3 or 4 roadblocks (before they could be set up). There was information
> leaked that speeds exceeded 155 (thats all those Vicks and 'tangs could do).
> 
> Sorry if offended any moparians out there, but I thought it was worth
> posting. I'm a GM turbo enthusiast as well as being a Moparian.
> 
> Later!,
> 
> TurboDave - 84 Laser XE Turbo
> dlpearce@eos.ncsu.edu
> 
> 
> 
tom root

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 11 12:57:02 1993
Subject: Holley Secondary Springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6879
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Um, I have a set of Holley Vacuum Secondary springs for my 4bbl,
but I lost the sheet giving the order of stiffness. If you can tell me
the order, I'd be most grateful.

	The springs are yellow, yellow (two yellows, different stiffness),
violet, plain, green (yes, there IS a Holley green spring), white, brown,
and black. I tried to list the in what I thought was the order of stiffness.
Also, if you could give me the approximate RPM opening range on a 350
engine, that would also be extremely helpful.


							Jason

God is not dead!  He's alive and autographing bibles at Cody's

(jcborkow@remus.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 11 13:44:07 1993
Subject: Chevy Big Block Motor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6880
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

454 cubic inch bored 0.60 over, 10.5 compression with ported
closed chamber heads, 2.19 int. 1.88 exh. valves.  File fit
rings, 244 dur, 567 lift Crane roller cam.  Run for only 
three tanks of gas.  $3800.00 firm.

                                  (819) 827-3338
                                  Keith
                                  leave message

----------
Posted by: emory!superior.ccs.carleton.ca!wcsphill (Phillip Shivkumar)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 11 18:51:42 1993
Subject: truck hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6881
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Does anyone out there know of a newsgroup that talk  about trucks?  Old trucks,
new trucks, hotrod trucks  any kind of trucks, but preferably off road trucks. 
please send me mail  at abatej@sun0.elon.edu rather than posting an answer.
thank you if you can give me any help!!


							Joe Abate

----------
Posted by: emory!VAX1.ELON.EDU!ABATEJ (Joe Abate)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 09:40:07 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6882
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Path: cwis!mgolden
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
References: <4+31prj@dixie.com>
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1993 03:09:07 GMT
Lines: 17

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>> >	When I spoke to the chief engineer of department of motor vehicles
>> >	in Finland he said that 'If we had something to say about it there
>> >	wouldn't be no cars with power-to-weight -ratio under 15lbs /hp
>> >	registered in this country...'
>> 
>> 	What is the rationale for this inane law?

How do they enforce this law?  Do they actuall make you put your car on a
dyno, and see what it will do?  If so, can't you do a reverse tune up on it
andmake it run like crap just for their test?  Just curious.  Later.

--
.--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 11:50:20 1993
Subject: Re: COP FUN (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6883
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: COP FUN (fwd)
>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 93 13:31:17 GMT
>There's at least one reader of this list who will appreciate this
>repost.
>
>> From: dlpearce@eos.ncsu.edu
>> 
>> In my hometown, some one owned a Buick GNX Turbo (yep, not a mopar, but very
>> fast all the same) which could outrun everything including those $5000 digital
>> Motorola com. systems. I was in bed one night when I first heard of a car
>> chase. All of a sudden there was this deep bass rattling the house windows,
>> then the beautiful sound of that turbo 3.8 singin' its tune. Then about
>> 30 seconds later, sirens from the Highway Patrol - the whole troop that is.
>> He was leavin' them in the dust. They never caught the guy I found out the 
>> next morning. All of the law enforcement in our county was in on it too. He
>> outran 3 or 4 roadblocks (before they could be set up). There was information
>> leaked that speeds exceeded 155 (thats all those Vicks and 'tangs could do).
>> 
>> Sorry if offended any moparians out there, but I thought it was worth
>> posting. I'm a GM turbo enthusiast as well as being a Moparian.
>> 
>> Later!,
>> 
>> TurboDave - 84 Laser XE Turbo
>> dlpearce@eos.ncsu.edu
>> 
>> 
>> 
>tom root
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 

   Would that be a completly stock Buick, or are some mods. necessary to 
make it hit 160 or above?

----------
Posted by: emory!hp.uwsuper.edu!tcullen (TARY M. CULLEN)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 12:42:15 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6884
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



  Well, in Sweden we have the same sort of setup, however, I don't know the
  legal hp/weight ratio for a custom built streetcar. It's not dynoed but
  rather up to the individual inspectors decision and the grounds for a
  decision is based on paperwork matching engine numbers with hp figures
  from manufacturers. "Stock cars" are as such not really a problem in that
  a big-block is a big block and did reside in some of our favorite cars
  when they left the factory. Detuning for inspection drives is then
  possible and also part of the game to get those 1000+ hp N20 Camaros onto
  the streets of Sweden. People will even switch to a stock "inspection"
  engine for the yearly trip to the inspection site.

  I belive that the problem mentioned by our Finnish friend is sticking an
  engine in a car or HotRod that did not belong there in the first place.
  Any engine can be obviously be detuned and look fairly stock, but if the
  engine is aluminum and the casting numbers are not remotely close to
  those that came out of a car manufacturers doors, forget it. Those
  inspectors are beaurocrats, but not altogether stupid as to what resides
  under the hood of a car.

  Reg's
  Par Willen
  _________________
  WILLEN@LOTUS.SE

----------
Posted by: emory!Mail.SWIP.net!LOTUSINT!Pr.Willn
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 15:38:24 1993
Subject: Re: Exhaust system tuning
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6885
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I'm trying to gather opinions about how much fudge there is to fact.
-> I see what you mean by skipping a slot if the tubes are short enough.

 I'd appreciate it if you were to post any comments here.  Looking at
tri-Y headers in general, there doesn't seem to be much concensus among
header designers.

 Interestingly, David Vizard in his "Hot to Hotrod Your OHC Ford" says
any sort of tri-Y header will absolutely kill low-end torque for that
particular engine.  This is the same guy who gives tri-Ys the thumbs up
in his "Performance With Economy" book.  Of course, his dyno figures in
that same book seemed to show there's no logical connection between tube
diameter and torque peak - on one small Chevy motor on the dyno, a set
of Pro Stock sewer pipes were able to equal a set of RV style headers.


-> ps- what's the author's full name on that book?

 Philip H. Smith, I think.
                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 15:43:52 1993
Subject: Re: Supercharger questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6886
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I've heard that Vortech was formed by a few former Paxton people.

 Hmm.  I didn't hear that story, but the Vortech blower looks an awful
like the... uh, whatinhelldidtheycallit, Mach I?  About ten years ago a
company had a similar-looking blower which they claimed ran "supersonic"
compressor speeds.  I just assumed it was the same old thing with a new
name.
                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 18:47:38 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6887
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article any12vf@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>        Oh well. It happened again. I wasn't allowed to put the nice,
>        little 580cid twin turbo aluminium engine into my Vette
>        ( .. 'U said 9.5 liters?! And TURBOCHARGED? No way, that can't
>        be registered, 15lbs per hp is the absolute limit and that
>        won't make it - install your original LS-6 if you want but not
>        THAT engine!' .. :-( ) and now I'm looking for options.

So who is it that won't allow this? How will they find out what's beneath
the heads?

As for 15lbs per hp, hey that's for weanies. My old 900 Ninja delivers one
hp for every 5 pounds with me on it....


eric

----------
Posted by: emory!Eng.Sun.COM!Eric.Marsh (Eric Marsh)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 19:00:53 1993
Subject: Glove Compartment Lock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6888
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey everybody, here's a trick question:

Does anyone know how to take the glove compartment latch/lock off
of an old (broken) glove compartment door and put it on a new one?

I dont have the key for it, and the car is a '71 chevy El Camino.

If you dont know the trick, do you know who I can ask.  The GM parts people
here in Oakland dont want to give out any free advice.

Please reply by email

Thanks
dan
deo@physics.berkeley.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!physics5.berkeley.edu!deo (Daniel Osgood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 19:08:50 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6889
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>   Well, in Sweden we have the same sort of setup, however, I don't know the
>   legal hp/weight ratio for a custom built streetcar. It's not dynoed but
>   rather up to the individual inspectors decision and the grounds for a
>   decision is based on paperwork matching engine numbers with hp figures
>   from manufacturers. 

	Sounds much like the system here. Unless you provide them with
	adequate information (dyno runs... they can be counterfeit but
	*no-one* will believe that a 9.5l+ engine with two huge turbos
	will only deliver ~220hp :) . As I recall it's calculated like:
	Blown/turboed without intercooler = engine hp (naturally aspirated)
	* 1.4 and for intercooled ones * 1.6 . A stock engine looks pretty
	bad to them if it's based on forced induction.

>  "Stock cars" are as such not really a problem in that
>   a big-block is a big block and did reside in some of our favorite cars
>   when they left the factory. Detuning for inspection drives is then
>   possible and also part of the game to get those 1000+ hp N20 Camaros onto
>   the streets of Sweden. People will even switch to a stock "inspection"
>   engine for the yearly trip to the inspection site.

	Yep, that's pretty common here, too. It's just troublesome to swap
	the engine just to get the inspection stamp on your pink slip.
	You have one of the nicest automobile legislations in Europe and
	you really should hope that EC/EU will change it as little as
	possible.

>   I belive that the problem mentioned by our Finnish friend is sticking an
>   engine in a car or HotRod that did not belong there in the first place.
>   Any engine can be obviously be detuned and look fairly stock, but if the
>   engine is aluminum and the casting numbers are not remotely close to
>   those that came out of a car manufacturers doors, forget it. Those
>   inspectors are beaurocrats, but not altogether stupid as to what resides
>   under the hood of a car.

	Well... if they find out that there's a twin turbo pro-stock engine
	under the hood they'll: 1. Take my registration, put it into a safe
	and throw away the key. 2. If I drive it on public roads they'll
	sue my a$$ off this planet... :(
	As you mentioned, they *are* utterly stupid and it takes surprisingly
	little to fool them but, in most cases, if they don't know what it
	is, they won't let you install it.
	Casting numbers can be easily restamped but sometimes they check if
	the block has been planed/ground (circular surface pattern rather 
	than linear). Even if I restamp the block with stock engine casting
	numbers they'll look at their books (which say 460hp) and calculate
	460 * 1.6 = 736hp. *sigh*
	Well, it's easier to buy as big block as possible (7XXcid?), install
	a pair of Olds pro-stock heads, a nice EFI or a pair of Holley 1150
	strip dominators, a good roller cam, restamp the block and tell them
	that it's all stock. They'll buy it :)

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 19:17:13 1993
Subject: Acetylene torches
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6890
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I have a mig welder, but I'd like to try getting an acetylene torch setup for
welding, brazing, bending, and cutting.  Does anyone have any good/bad
comments about different brands.  The only brand I can think of off hand is
Victor.  Are they good?  Are there cheaper or better brands?

I'd like to try to make a custom radiator with a homebuilt resorvoir on top. 
Is acetylene with the appropriate tip the way to go for soldering up sheets of
brass?  Or is a large propane torch sufficient?  I've used "Turbo-Torch"
propane or MAPP gas torches to solder up large (1-1/2" to 2") copper pipes
before, but I have a feeling they wouldn't be up to the task of soldering big
long seams on a radiator tank.  Anyone tried making their own radiator tanks
before?

A custom radiator can cost from $300.00 and up, so I wouldn't mind tinkering
around to see if I could make it myself.

Thanks, Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 19:41:23 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6891
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> >> >	wouldn't be no cars with power-to-weight -ratio under 15lbs /hp
> 
> How do they enforce this law?  Do they actuall make you put your car on a
> dyno, and see what it will do?  If so, can't you do a reverse tune up on it
> andmake it run like crap just for their test?  Just curious.  Later.

	Usually they just calculate it (I posted the formula earlier).
	For example, if you have a stock Mazda Miata and you want to 
	install a turbocharger + intercooler they'll tell you its
	output is 1.6 * 105hp = 168hp. You may have 130 or 250 dynoed
	horsepowers but unless you can provide them with documents of
	the actual output they assume that hp calculated is real.
	No, they don't have dynos at inspection stations and if you
	say that your car gives 130hp and show dyno prints they'll
	have to believe you (well, unless you try something REALLY
	ridiculous, they have some common sense you know.. ;-)
	They test drive the cars (a 1/2-mile course) and sometimes
	they require dyno rerun with an inspection official present
	if the car feels a *lot* more powerful than you try to tell
	them it is.
	They're a bit short on resources and finances - they can't even
	test your brakes if your car is AWD. Early this year I had my
	Range Rover inspected and they told me that the brake balance
	is too much off. I asked them where they tested that and they
	showed me their 2-wheel (one axle) brake 'dyno'... oh well, they
	didn't break anything (differential lock wasn't engaged, thank
	God) but if they had I would've sued them. (At some point I
	wished they HAD broken something.. ;-)

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 12 19:46:12 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6892
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> So who is it that won't allow this? How will they find out what's beneath
> the heads?

	Well... they won't but *outside* the heads recide a pair of
	Rajay turbos, size of a dinner plate, and they (unfortunately)
	can count 1+1. And I haven't mentioned anything about the 
	intercoolers yet... :-(
	Hmm... has Chevy ever produced a big block with less than 140hp? ;-)

> As for 15lbs per hp, hey that's for weanies. My old 900 Ninja delivers one
> hp for every 5 pounds with me on it....

	Yep, I know. The *actual* power-to-weight (or weight-to-power) -ratio
	would be less than 2lbs / hp and when they test drive that monster
	it'll be too obvious. 

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 14 11:38:42 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6893
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> When I spoke to the chief engineer of department of motor vehicles in
-> Finland he said that 'If we had something to say about it there
-> wouldn't be no cars with power-to-weight -ratio under 15lbs /hp
-> registered in this country...'

 From a practical standpoint, how would they know?  They can weigh the
car, sure, but an 800+hp motor would just burn the rollers right off a
chassis dyno.  Most of the ones I've seen crap out around 150hp.

 Even if they wanted to pull the motor and get a true power reading, you
could retard the cam and timing and drop the power down to whatever you
wanted.
                                                                                              

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 14 11:42:46 1993
Subject: Re: truck hotrod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6894
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>Does anyone out there know of a newsgroup that talk  about trucks?  Old trucks,
>new trucks, hotrod trucks  any kind of trucks, but preferably off road trucks. 
>please send me mail  at abatej@sun0.elon.edu rather than posting an answer.
>thank you if you can give me any help!!
>

No newsgroup, but there is a mailing list - 
	Offroad@ai.gtri.gatech.edu

Mail to 
	Offroad-request@ai.gtri.gatech.edu

to join.  We talk about old trucks including 1940's Willys Jeeps,
Unimogs, 60's and 70's Rovers and Cruisers, new trucks from Toys 
to turbo Cummins, hotrod trucks (I drive a 350 Chevy powered 
Landcruiser FJ40, another guy drives one with a 400, lots of 
fun with a ~96" wheel base), and the group is specifically about
offroad driving and vehicles.

----------
Posted by: Drew Eckhardt 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 14 11:47:18 1993
Subject: Chevy rods again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6895
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I just learned something interesting from an old article on the Pontiac
Iron Duke engine.  It's apparently only distantly related to the old
Chevy II four.  Mainly the head and rods are different - the Iron Duke
uses a 2.00 dia (small journal) cast rod (all Chevy rods are forged),
but it's 6.05" long.  Might be interesting for an econo-motor if you
were running small journal rods.
                                                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 14 11:52:45 1993
Subject: engine weight FYI
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6896
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Enjoy:

                 Engine Weight FYI    version 93.11.14
            by Dave Williams, dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us

  It isn't really a Frequently Asked Question, so I'll call it an
"FYI", For Your Information.  This was originally a list I'd compiled
long ago on paper, then moved to the computer, then posted on the net
as a response to some questions.  It wound up being popular, but since
I didn't keep track of the origin of the data there was some debate as
to how accurate the list was.  This new improved list has origins
where I could find references; what doesn't have an origin is stuff
from my original list.

  You'll sometimes see more than one weight listed.  Some weights are
for just a long block, some are complete and ready to run, and of
course everything in between.  Some engines varied in weight during
their production runs - for example, some later Chevy V8s use thinwall
blocks and aluminum heads.

  If you have any figures you'd like to contribute, please send them to
me at the email address above.

                       weight
     engine            pounds   ref.       comments

Alfasud flat-4          240     (2)
Alfa Romeo SOHC V6      375     (2)
AMC V8                  540         (one ref showed 600)
AMC 6                   500
Audi 2.0 L4             335     (2)
Audi 5                  364     (2) (non-turbo)
Audi 80 1300            230     (2)
Audi 100 1500           240     (2)
Austin C-series L6      562     (2) ('56 Austin-Healey 100-6)

BL "B" L4 OHV           335     (2)
BL "E" L6               345     (2)  ("complete")
BL "O" L4 OHC           298     (2)
BMW M52 3.3,3.5 Big Six 500     (2)
BMW M60 Small Six       388     (2)
BMW slant-6 turbodiesel 430
BMW 4.5L V12            607     (2)
BMW M105 Diesel 6 2.5L  430     (4)
Buick 350               450
Buick 401               685     (1) ('59 Nail Head)
Buick 430-455 V8        600         (one ref showed 640)
Buick 1963 odd-fire V6  414     (2)
Buick V6                375
Buick 3.0 V6 '85-up     350
Buick/Rover 215 V8      318         (and Olds)
Buick 1961 215 V8       324     (2)

Cadillac V8 390         720     (1) ('59)
Cadillac V8 472-500     625
Cadillac V-16           1,300   (2) (1931)
Cadillac 331 V8         699     (2) (1949)
Chevy Corvair flat 6    300
Chevy 1.8-2.0 L4        302     (4) "J car" pushrod
Chevy Chevette 1.6 SOHC 300     (4) (also Opel)
Chevy Vega L4           285
Chevy II 153 L4         350
Chevy L6 194-250        440
Chevy L6 292            ---
Chevy L6 216/235        630     (2)
Chevy V6-90 229, 4.3    425
Chevy V6-60 2.8, 3.1    350     (2)
Chevy small block V8    575         (generic for '60s-'70s motors)
Chevy small block V8    535     (1) ('59 Corvette 283 w/alum. intake)
Chevy V8 348/409        620     (1)
Chevy big block V8      685         Mark IV
Chevy big block V8      ---         Mark V
Chrysler 2.2 L4         216     (6) (bare motor)
Chrysler 413 wedge      640     (1) ('59 300-E)
Chrysler 331 Hemi       745     (5) 1955
Citroen 2.0 Douvrin 4   263

DeSoto 383              630     (1) ('59)
DeSoto V8               675     (5) (276-341 CID, '50s)
Dodge V8                645     (5) (241-325 CID, '50s)

Dodge 361               625     (1) ('59)

Edsel 361               680     (1) ('59)

Ferrari 312T            397     (2) (V12 3.0L racing engine)
Ferrari "250" V12       382     (2)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    285     (2) (model 206)
FIAT/Ferrari Dino V6    296     (2) (model 246)
Ford Kent 1600          ---
Ford Escort OHC 1600    ---
Ford 1.3-2.0 OHC        ---
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  418     (2) (also 2.0, 2.5)
Ford 2.3 Lima/Pinto L4  450     (2) (turbo)
Ford Germany Taunus V4  205     (2) (and SAAB V4)
Ford England Essex V4   327
Ford Germany 2.0-2.8 V6 305
Ford England Essex V6   379     (2) (3 liter)
Ford 3.8 V6-90          351     (4) (w/start, alt, less clutch)
Ford 170-250 L6         385         (except Australian w/aluminum head)
Ford 240-300 L6         ---
Ford flathead V8        525
Ford flathead V8        569     (1) ('53 239 CID)
Ford Cosworth DFV       353     (2) (racing engine, DOHC, 3.0L)
Ford SOHC modular V8    ---
Ford DOHC modular V8    ---
Ford 255 Windsor        468     (4)
Ford 289/302 V8         460         (late 5.0s are a bit lighter)
Ford BOSS 302           500
Ford 351 Cleveland      550         (includes BOSS and Australian 302-C)
Ford 351 Windsor        510
Ford Y block V8         625         (272-312 CID)
Ford FE big block       650         (332-428 CID)
Ford FE big block       670     (1) ('59 352 CID)
Ford 429/460 V8         640
Ford BOSS 429           680         (iron block, aluminum heads)

Isuzu 1.8 Diesel L4     384     (4)
Isuzu 1.8 gas L4        311     (4)

Jaguar old design 6     ---
Jaguar new design 6     ---
Jaguar V12              680

Lincoln 430             740     (1) ('59) (also Mercury 430)
Lotus 907 (Esprit)      275     (3) (inc. alt. & starter, no clutch)

Marmon V-16             931     (2) (1931)
Mercedes SOHC V8 alum.  452     (2)
Mercedes SOHC V8 iron   540     (2)
Mopar Slant Six         475
Mopar 273-340 "A" V8    525
Mopar 360 "A"           550
Mopar 361-383-400 V8    620     (5)
Mopar 413-426W-440 V8   670     (5)
Mopar Street Hemi       765         (690 bare)

Nissan 240-300Z 6       ---
Nissan CA20 FWD         269     (4) belt cam
Nissan Z20 NAPS-Z 2.0   346     (4) RWD chain cam

Olds 215 V8             318         (same as Buick/Rover)
Olds 260 V8             ---
Olds 304 "Rocket" V8    671     (2) first Olds V8, 1949
Olds straight-8         614     (2) '40s motor
Olds 330 J2             700         (first generation V8)
Olds 330-400            560     (5) low deck, w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 350-403 V8         ---         '86-up lightweight design
Olds 394                725     (1) ('59)
Olds 371, 394           760     (5)
Olds 400-455            620     (5) high deck w/accessories, no flywheel
Olds 262 V6 Diesel      590     (4) (from GM SAE paper)
Olds 260 Diesel         ---
Olds 350 Diesel         ---
Opel 2.8-3.0 CIH L6     395     (2)

Peugeot 204 Diesel      272
Peugeot Douvrin 2.0 4   263     (2)
Peugeot 104 1400        260     (2) includes transaxle
Pierce-Arrow V-12       1,130   (2) (1932)
Plymouth 361            640     (1) ('59)
Pontiac L4              350         Iron Duke, Tech IV
Pontiac Tempest slant 4 470
Pontiac SOHC 6          450
Pontiac 389 V8          650
Pontiac 389 V8          590     (1) ('59)
Porsche 4.7 SOHC V8     574
Porsche 901 6           401     (2) (1963)

Rambler 327 V8          600
Rambler 327 V8          670     (1) ('59)
Rover 3500 V8           318         (same as Buick)
Rover 3.0 SOHC L6       432     (2)
Renault 2.0 4 Douvrin   263     (2)
Renault 2.8 V6          375     (2) (also DeLorean, Peugeot, Volvo)
Renault EF-1            395     (2) (racing version of P-R-V V6)

SAAB V4-60              206     (2) (also Taunus, Ford)
SAAB slant-4            290     (2) (also Triumph)
Studebaker 289          650

Triumph slant-4         290     (2) (also SAAB 99)
Triumph 2000 L6         403     (2) (Spitfire, 2.5 TRs)
Triumph Stag V8         446

VW flat-4 air cooled    200
VW flat-4 water cooled  ---
VW inline 4             ---         Rabbit/Golf


(1)  Handbook of Engine Swapping, John Thawley, 1960
(2)  Complete Handbook of Automotive Power Trains, Jan Norbye, 1981
(3)  Passenger Car Engines, papers, IMechE, 1975
(4)  New Light Duty Engines, SAE 510, 1982
(5)  Hot Rod Engines, Hot Rod, 1967
(6)  Aspects of Internal Combustion Engine Design, SAE 582, 1982
                                                                                                              

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 14 21:38:34 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6898
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>  From a practical standpoint, how would they know?  They can weigh the
> car, sure, but an 800+hp motor would just burn the rollers right off a
> chassis dyno.  Most of the ones I've seen crap out around 150hp.

	That might work... and if you install a set of Kelly Charger
	tires (virtually no traction whatsoever) in size 165-70-14's
	they would barely get 100hp. ;-)

>  Even if they wanted to pull the motor and get a true power reading, you
> could retard the cam and timing and drop the power down to whatever you
> wanted.

	That's the best part: they can do anything they want (or demand
	that you do) but they *can't* tell you to take anything apart
	that has nothing to do with safety (ie. brakes, steering parts,
	suspension parts... not the engine).
	Actually, the engine swap *could* be done but I find it a lot
	easier to install a 700++cid engine, tell them it's a 396 and
	explain nothing. *grin*

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 03:21:44 1993
Subject: Re: Chevy rods again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6899
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  I just learned something interesting from an old article on the Pontiac
> Iron Duke engine.
[......]
> Might be interesting for an econo-motor if you
> were running small journal rods.
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

	What do the pepole that run "iron dukes" in the Goodies Daytona
Dash do to make them race motors?  Does GM still make it anymore?

Henry

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 03:27:06 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6900
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
> From a practical standpoint, how would they know?  They can weigh the
>car, sure, but an 800+hp motor would just burn the rollers right off a
>chassis dyno.  Most of the ones I've seen crap out around 150hp.

That's my experience, too...  have used two different little clayton
double roller 250hp chassis dynos, and even with proper tie downs, my truck
was jumping out of the dyno really bad at 175hp.  Well, one of them didn't
have adequate water supply to absorb more than 150hp, but the truck
was jumping at that load too.  Ended up doing my high load tuning in 3rd
gear on I-35.


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 03:31:54 1993
Subject: Re: Merlin SuperBlock
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6901
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , The Hotrod List  wrote:
> From a practical standpoint, how would they know?  They can weigh the
>car, sure, but an 800+hp motor would just burn the rollers right off a
>chassis dyno.  Most of the ones I've seen crap out around 150hp.

That's my experience, too...  have used two different little clayton
double roller 250hp chassis dynos, and even with proper tie downs, my truck
was jumping out of the dyno really bad at 175hp.  Well, one of them didn't
have adequate water supply to absorb more than 150hp, but the truck
was jumping at that load too.  Ended up doing my high load tuning in 3rd
gear on I-35.


-- 
--=< Jonathan Lusky ----- lusky@gnu.ai.mit.edu     >=-- 
    \ "Turbos are nice, but I'd rather be blown!" /
     \    89 Jeep Wrangler - 258/for sale!       / 
      \ Wanted: 68 Camaro Convertible V8/4spd   /

----------
Posted by: emory!grumpy.cc.utexas.edu!lusky (Jonathan R. Lusky)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 05:42:37 1993
Subject: Re: Holley Secondary Springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6902
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article n31j5h@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>	Um, I have a set of Holley Vacuum Secondary springs for my 4bbl,
>but I lost the sheet giving the order of stiffness. If you can tell me
>the order, I'd be most grateful.
>
>	The springs are yellow, yellow (two yellows, different stiffness),
>violet, plain, green (yes, there IS a Holley green spring), white, brown,
>and black. I tried to list the in what I thought was the order of stiffness.
>Also, if you could give me the approximate RPM opening range on a 350
>engine, that would also be extremely helpful.
>
>
>							Jason
>
>God is not dead!  He's alive and autographing bibles at Cody's
>
>(jcborkow@remus.rutgers.edu)
>
>----------
>Posted by: 


No problem.

white  yellow  yellow2  purple  plain  brown  black
weak             --------------->             stiff

The green spring is not mentioned in my Holley book. 

Markus

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 12:40:19 1993
Subject: Re:  Acetylene torches
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6903
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 For heavy soldering a plumber's torch is a good bet; you get get a torch
(acetylene/air) and tank (small acetylene) for about $40 out of pawn. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 12:44:39 1993
Subject: Acetylene torches RE:
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6904
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Subject: Acetylene torches

 Tom,
  A torch set is very useful and is the only thing that will quickly
cut thick >.125" steel.  They also work great for brazing and welding.

The victor set is ok, but parts are not as readily available as
smith's or uniweld.  I like uniweld because it is robust and there
are a lot of tips available.  The uniweld regulator's are very nice
and most brands are rebuildable.
My firepower (victor) set was a gift from Sam's warehouse, it came
with two tips and one cutting torch and tip.  Getting tips has been
less than easy but not impossible.  At a little over $110, I'm not
complaining.
Dont forget the other essentials:
gas cylinders must be rented or purchased, a good set of leather's
will keep you cooler and safe from spatter and will improve your
stamina.  Tip cleaners, flux and rods must also be purchased separate.
Brazing and fusion welding is a technique apart from arc or mig welding.
The techniques are similar but the timing and coordination are different.
-- 
  -kyle
  

----------
Posted by: Kyle Ehler 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 12:51:20 1993
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6905
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
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Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
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----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 13:10:19 1993
Subject: Acetylene torches
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6906
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> I have a mig welder, but I'd like to try getting an acetylene torch setup for
> welding, brazing, bending, and cutting.  Does anyone have any good/bad
> comments about different brands.  The only brand I can think of off hand is 
> Victor.  Are they good?  Are there cheaper or better brands?

About a month ago I purchased a Victor "FirePower" oxy/acetylene
cutting/welding kit from Sam's Warehouse for about $127 (including goggles,
leather gloves, and some brazing rods).  FirePower is Victor's
bottom-of-the-line and accepts standard Victor tips, rosette, etc...

I like it ;)  

Victor's a respected name.  There may be something cheaper, but I can't imagine
that it could be better.

I had looked at Harris' new bottom-of-the-line (Brass Series?) which was on
special for $173.  Indepth discussion with the salesman revealed that it was
equivalent to the Victor FirePower.  I decided to save the $46.

Sincerely,
JJ

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
John Jennings                      INTERNET: jjenning@spd.dsccc.com
DSC Communications, Corp.          UUCP:     uunet!digi!jjenning
1000 Coit Road, Plano TX 75075     (214) 519-3957

----------
Posted by: John Jennings 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 13:45:49 1993
Subject: Re: Holley Secondary Springs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6907
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>>
>>	Um, I have a set of Holley Vacuum Secondary springs for my 4bbl,
>>but I lost the sheet giving the order of stiffness. If you can tell me
>>the order, I'd be most grateful.
>>
>>	The springs are yellow, yellow (two yellows, different stiffness),
>>violet, plain, green (yes, there IS a Holley green spring), white, brown,
>>and black. I tried to list the in what I thought was the order of stiffness.
>>Also, if you could give me the approximate RPM opening range on a 350
>>engine, that would also be extremely helpful.
>>
>
>No problem.
>
>white  yellow  yellow2  purple  plain  brown  black
>weak             --------------->             stiff
>
>The green spring is not mentioned in my Holley book. 
>
>Markus

color		load at .250"       load at .650"
white		.50                 .15
yellow          .55                 .38
red             .70                 .37 - no typo
pink            .65                 .52
purple          .92                 .45
green          1.00                 .40
orange         1.15                 .70 - same as plain but taller 
plain          1.15                 .70
brown          1.21                 .90
black          1.85                1.00 - verfy stiff

These are guestimates off of a chart - the additional colors have different 
slopes that the standard yellow-purple-plain-brown-black - this allows some 
fine tuning.

Use the column on the right to determine opening characteristics.  Use the 
column on the left to determine how fast it opens once initialial open

With a tall installed height the list would go like this (opening 
characteristics)
White
RED   <- different than above list
yellow
GREEN
purple
pink
orange
plain
brown
black

>From an early Holley chart
Engine:                   350 cu in                402 cu in
                 Opening RPM  Full open      Opening    Full Open
Yellow (short)      1620       5680           1410       4960
Yellow              1635       5750           1420       5020
Purple              1915       6950           1680       6050
Plain               2240       8160           1960       7130
Brown               2710       8750           2380       7650
Black               2720      never           2390       never

Holley 4150 List 3310-1  (750 cfm ?)


Hope this helps - and as always YMMV

Dirk

PS my mailer has been down for the last couple of days!!!

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 14:49:31 1993
Subject: RE: Acetylene torches
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6908
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>About a month ago I purchased a Victor "FirePower" oxy/acetylene
>cutting/welding kit from Sam's Warehouse for about $127 (including goggles,
>leather gloves, and some brazing rods).  FirePower is Victor's
>bottom-of-the-line and accepts standard Victor tips, rosette, etc...

Does anyone have a number for SAM's Warehouse?

Also around here the local gas retailer (Robert's Oxygen) is really hot on 
Victor and Miller.  Any comments on these two brands - other than what was 
already posted.  I have used Victor and Lincoln elctric stuff and they were 
O.K. for the little stuff.  I'd like to get a Miller and eventually add the 
TIG stuff to it.  

Thanks for any input

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 19:39:05 1993
Subject: RE: '90 Mustang Engine Swap
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6909
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


    Hi -- I just discovered the list and have a question -- I have a 
'90 Mustang convertible that I dearly love but it has no guts because 
it has the 2300cc engine. My question involves what are the 
possibilites for a legal swap?  Must I go only with a 5.0 Ford, or 
could I add turbo unit from a T-Bird to my existing engine setup? Do 
you know of any literature on this subject(in Hot Rod or one of the 
other mags) that would be of assistance, including perhaps step by 
step kind of stuff? It seems like this should be old hat to some out 
there, as it is a logical kind of thing to upgrade performace with 
little cash. I would appreciate 
any info here, as the car has grown on me, but it goes like a snail.
John Heitmann
Dept. of History
University of Dayton
Heitmann@udavxb.oca.udayton.edu

----------
Posted by: "John A. Heitmann" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 15 19:54:29 1993
Subject: hey how do I join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6910
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello,
I've heard about this before, is it mailing list, and if so how do I
join?
Matt A.

----------
Posted by: emory!sfu.ca!acheson
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 16 07:46:32 1993
Subject: Re: hey how do I join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6911
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I've heard about this before, is it mailing list, and if so how do I
>join?

Yes, it is.  Send a message to hotrod-request@dixie.com, the reply will give
the exact syntax for subscribing - I think you need to put SUBSCRIBE 

in the subject line.

>Matt A.

David Wright - 65 Plymouth Belvedere II 4-door 273
               74 Dodge Challenger Rallye 360
               85 Toyota Camry Deluxe 5-spd
               90 Toyota Corolla Deluxe 5-spd

----------
Posted by: David Wright 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 16 07:51:17 1993
Subject: Re: Acetylene torches
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6912
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Nov 12,  7:09pm, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: Acetylene torches
> I have a mig welder, but I'd like to try getting an acetylene torch setup for
> welding, brazing, bending, and cutting.  Does anyone have any good/bad
> comments about different brands.  The only brand I can think of off hand is
> Victor.  Are they good?  Are there cheaper or better brands?
>
Victor is high quality.  You will not go wrong buying or using their products.
> Thanks, Tom
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: Tom Carver 
>  
> 
> 
>-- End of excerpt from The Hotrod List

Cheers. Mike


-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@Cyber.net) 1971 Porsche 911T, 1988 Ford F150 4X4
El Cajon, California 1923 Ford Roadster(Ford 302,4spd,9 inch) Ex-Jeepster Owner
E-MAIL ME FOR FORD HOLLEY TRI-POWER INFORMATION FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK FORDS 

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 16 12:52:04 1993
Subject: conventions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6913
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	I know Brain was going to post this to the race fab list but I do
it for him anyway.  I's from an add in the SAE jornal Automotive
engineering Oct '93 page 25.

	WORLD'S LARGEST RACING TRADE SHOW
	DEC 3-5, 1993 CINCINNATI, OHIO
	send or fax for Pre-Registration credintials, Hotel & Travel info.
	Only legitimate members of the racing trade will be admitted.  
	Attendees must submit business identification to obtain credrntials.

	6th Annual 
		Performance Racing industry Trade Show
	po box 9327 S.Laguna, CA 92677 usa 714/499-5413  fax 714/499-3740

I also got the call for papers for this from Automotive Engineering a few
months ago.

	Motorsports Engineering Conference & Exposition
	December 5-8 1994 Hyatt Regency Hotel Dearborn, Michigan, USA	

In the picture they have a motorcycle a winston cup car (obviously a
Pontiac), a top fuel dragster and a couple of formula cars. This sounds
like an international afair to. I wonder how many papers they've gotten.

Henry Sommer

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b (Henry Sommer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 16 12:56:47 1993
Subject: Acetylene torches
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6914
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> Does anyone have a number for SAM's Warehouse?

Yes.  Quick digression at the risk of telling you something you already
know:
	Sam's is a warehouse-super-store-everything-rolled-into-one
	type place.  It's owned by the same folks that brought us
	Wal-Mart.  Corporate headquarters is in Arkansas.  Their stock
	is subject to change (and can do so rapidly).  You need to pay
	a $25 annual "membership".  They don't do mail-order.

My local (Dallas area) Sam's phone number is (214)612-8041.  I called
them and asked about stores in California; they were happy to
look-up/answer any questions.

JJ
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
John Jennings                      INTERNET: jjenning@spd.dsccc.com
DSC Communications, Corp.          UUCP:     uunet!digi!jjenning
1000 Coit Road, Plano TX 75075     (214) 519-3957

----------
Posted by: John Jennings 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 16 17:50:23 1993
Subject: Carrier bearing preload help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6915
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	I have to redo a 12 bolt, and would like hints on setting
carrier bearing preload. A long time ago in a tech school I remember 
seeing this done by coiling string around the carrier (a number of turns)
and when done, attaching the string end to a fishing scale. Pulling
on the scale unwound the string, but also gave a "weight" recorded on
the scale. This seems all fine and well, and seems to be able to overcome
the initial breakaway torque of the carrier. Problem: I dont remember
how to translate the scale readings to the xx inch pounds of torque.
Can anyone help? Or should I just put an inch pound wrench on a 
ring gear bolt and hope that I can read the torque after breakaway
but before the wrench hits the housing!
Thanks...

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 13:51:43 1993
Subject: Ford C4 -> AOD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6916
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  My friend was asking for some info on the above swap.   He's got a
mildly built 302 in a '79 Mustang currently backed by a C4 and a 3.27
posi.  Motor spins about 3000 rpm at 70 mph.  8*<

  He'd like to put a OD unit in the car, since he does a lot of
highway.   Way I figure, our alernatives are either a AOD or a T-5 OD
tranny.   He doesn't want the 5 speed (damm!), so what can we do for a
slush-box AOD for this car?

  I've heard some rumor of putting a GM TH700-4R behind a Ford motor.
Is this true?  I've heard of putting a "Top Loader" 4 speed behind a
GM motor, but never this swap.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: Bob "$1/meg" Valentine 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 13:58:04 1993
Subject: Engine mounts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6917
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I saw a post about metal engine mounts for Camaros, and I was
wondering if perhaps someone could answer a small question... does
anyone make those same type of mounts for a late-model Mustang?  I
have a 351W I'm placing into a 1987 Mustang GT, and I'm curious if I
could find those mounts... they would come in really handy right
about now.  Anyone out there know if they exist?

----------
Posted by: emory!sdcc13.ucsd.edu!bkolodzi (Hurdy Gurdy Man )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 14:03:26 1993
Subject: Engine mounts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6918
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I saw a post about metal engine mounts for Camaros, and I was
wondering if perhaps someone could answer a small question... does
anyone make those same type of mounts for a late-model Mustang?  I
have a 351W I'm placing into a 1987 Mustang GT, and I'm curious if I
could find those mounts... they would come in really handy right
about now.  Anyone out there know if they exist?

----------
Posted by: emory!sdcc13.ucsd.edu!bkolodzi (Hurdy Gurdy Man )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 14:10:13 1993
Subject: Engine mounts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6919
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I saw a post about metal engine mounts for Camaros, and I was
wondering if perhaps someone could answer a small question... does
anyone make those same type of mounts for a late-model Mustang?  I
have a 351W I'm placing into a 1987 Mustang GT, and I'm curious if I
could find those mounts... they would come in really handy right
about now.  Anyone out there know if they exist?

----------
Posted by: emory!sdcc13.ucsd.edu!bkolodzi (Hurdy Gurdy Man )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 15:53:56 1993
Subject: Charger problems with ECM?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6920
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  Hey guys, here's a quickie.  I remember John talking about some weird
problems he had to debug that he traced to a battery charger/quick
starter wiping out a computer control module.

  Is there any safe way to use a quick-starter on a ECM-equipped car?
Or are you stuck with removing terminals and charging the battery?

  Ron "Charter Abuser" Rader

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 16:06:41 1993
Subject: Re: hey how do I join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6921
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 -=> Quoting Hotrod11-16-93  03:35ixie.com to All <=-

 Ho> Message-ID: <+_81!lm@dixie.com>
 Ho> Newsgroup: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
 Ho> Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the
 Ho> South. 
 
 >I've heard about this before, is it mailing list, and if so how do I
 >join?

 Ho> Yes, it is.  Send a message to hotrod-request@dixie.com, the reply
 Ho> will give the exact syntax for subscribing - I think you need to put
 Ho> SUBSCRIBE 
 in the subject line.
 
 Ho> David Wright - 65 Plymouth Belvedere II 4-door 273
 Ho> 74 Dodge Challenger Rallye 360
 Ho> 85 Toyota Camry Deluxe 5-spd
 Ho> 90 Toyota Corolla Deluxe 5-spd

 Ho> ----------
 Ho> Posted by: David Wright 

        I'm  confused, I am seeing a whole thread of notes on the alt.hotrod
        newsgroup. Is this the newsgroup, or am I seeing a mailing list ? 
        I cannot receive mailing lists here now, so can I participate
        through the newsgroup, or will I be missing something.
        Quite honestly do not understand mailing lists anyhow !

        Any help would be appreciated.

        Wayne                          1969 Pontiac GTO
        wayne.fiala@pcohio.com

... My good car is a Pontiac !!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!wayne.fiala (Wayne Fiala)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 16:16:39 1993
Subject: Re: hey how do I join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6922
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 -=> Quoting Hotrod11-16-93  03:35ixie.com to All <=-

 Ho> Message-ID: <+_81!lm@dixie.com>
 Ho> Newsgroup: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
 Ho> Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the
 Ho> South. 
 
 >I've heard about this before, is it mailing list, and if so how do I
 >join?

 Ho> Yes, it is.  Send a message to hotrod-request@dixie.com, the reply
 Ho> will give the exact syntax for subscribing - I think you need to put
 Ho> SUBSCRIBE 
 in the subject line.
 
 Ho> David Wright - 65 Plymouth Belvedere II 4-door 273
 Ho> 74 Dodge Challenger Rallye 360
 Ho> 85 Toyota Camry Deluxe 5-spd
 Ho> 90 Toyota Corolla Deluxe 5-spd

 Ho> ----------
 Ho> Posted by: David Wright 

        I'm  confused, I am seeing a whole thread of notes on the alt.hotrod
        newsgroup. Is this the newsgroup, or am I seeing a mailing list ? 
        I cannot receive mailing lists here now, so can I participate
        through the newsgroup, or will I be missing something.
        Quite honestly do not understand mailing lists anyhow !

        Any help would be appreciated.

        Wayne                          1969 Pontiac GTO
        wayne.fiala@pcohio.com

... My good car is a Pontiac !!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!wayne.fiala (Wayne Fiala)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 17:11:38 1993
Subject: Re:  Ford C4 -> AOD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6923
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

You're in Luck!  This month's Street Rodder has an extensive article detailing
identification, upgrades, swaps and etc to the Ford AOD.

pk4

----------
Posted by: emory!crux5.cit.cornell.edu!pfk1
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 21:45:32 1993
Subject: roller lifter question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6924
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	Anyone have any first hand experience (good - bad)
with Chet Herbert roller lifters? They seem to be anywheres 
from $50 to $125 cheaper per set than anyone elses.
The application is a small block 406 with a 640 lift cam. 
Its a drag car and expected to shift somewhere around 6500.

Thanks...

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 17 21:50:26 1993
Subject: Re:  Ford C4 -> AOD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6925
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yes, you can put a T700 behind a 302, and a US Gear OD behind that, 
giving you a 5 speed automatic in a Ford.  Email me if you want to 
spend at least $2500 doing this right.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 01:41:12 1993
Subject: how to join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6926
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Subject: Re: hey how do I join
>
>        I'm  confused, I am seeing a whole thread of notes on the alt.hotrod
>        newsgroup. Is this the newsgroup, or am I seeing a mailing list ? 
>        I cannot receive mailing lists here now, so can I participate
>        through the newsgroup, or will I be missing something.
>        Quite honestly do not understand mailing lists anyhow !

This list is set up in the best way you can imagine.  If you have
net access, read the net version (alt.hotrod), and do not join the 
maillist.  But to post, rather than posting to the net, mail your posting 
to hotrod@dixie.com, and it will be posted on the net as well as go 
to the mailing list.  All messages go both places.

hotrod is not especially high volume, but it's not low either, and
most people would agree that their newsreader handles the volume
in a more pleasant and time-efficient way than their mail program.
You can come and go as you please.

Dan Hepner

----------
Posted by: Dan Hepner 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 01:46:33 1993
Subject: Re:Olds Heads 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6927
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I'm lookig for Olds Big Block Heads. I have a NHRA legal stocker
and desperately need a set of "F" castings. They need to be 
relatively a virgin set. That is no porting or extensive valve 
jobs. If anybody has a clue, please e-mail me at 
laurer@ee.rochester.edu

I would also be interested in pre-71 blocks and cranks.

Thanks in advance

----------
Posted by: David Laurer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 01:50:38 1993
Subject: solid motor mounts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6928
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I bought some solid motor mounts to mount the engine in my '54 Chevy truck. 
They're made by Moroso.  They're heavy gauge steel and have a gold iridite
finish.  They came with some nice gold iridite grade 8 bolts and aircraft
style nylock nuts.  They only cost about $12.95.  I'm pretty sure I got them
from PAW, but it may have been Speedway.  Whichever place it was, I remember
they had an assortment of them with specifications for spacing etc.

The ones I got were intended for old Camaros, they had a short spacing
between the engine block and where the through-bolt bolts to the frame
mounts.

So, you might want to see if Moroso makes 'em for your application.

In case you don't already realize this:  solid motor mounts transmit a lot of
engine vibration into the frame and the rest of the car.  When you hit the
throttle you can really FEEL IT.  I like it, but sometimes you hit certain
RPMs that cause the whole car (truck) to resonate like a tin can and it can
give you a headache.

If you get solid motor mounts, I would go for ones that are made from at
least 1/4" or 5/16" thick steel.  They get subjected to a whole lot of
vibration and abuse.  The Moroso one's I got were really nice.  Having solid
motor mounts makes it easier to put the engine precisely where you want it
when you're doing engine swaps.  You don't have to worry much about the motor
moving all over the place.  My headers are about 1/8" away from the steering
shaft that goes down to the rack and pinion, but the shaft never rubs on
them.  

Good luck finding the Ford motor mounts.  Have you checked with Ford
Motorsports (div. of Ford)?

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 08:44:23 1993
Subject: Re: hey how do I join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6929
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        I'm  confused, I am seeing a whole thread of notes on the alt.hotrod
        newsgroup. Is this the newsgroup, or am I seeing a mailing list ? 
        I cannot receive mailing lists here now, so can I participate
        through the newsgroup, or will I be missing something.
        Quite honestly do not understand mailing lists anyhow !

        Any help would be appreciated.

        Wayne                          1969 Pontiac GTO
        wayne.fiala@pcohio.com


Yes, this is a mailing list. But it is also 'mirrored' to alt.hotrod. This
means all entries will show up there. If you can use Alt.Hotrod, theres no
need to subscribe to the list. When you'd like to post to the list, just
send an E-mail to hotrod@dixie.com. The reason for this mirror is to keep
the mailing list as small as possible so the server that hosts the list 
won't get overloaded.

Markus




----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 15:01:02 1993
Subject: Timing Chain Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6930
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In the process of working on one of my engines I came across a question I 
can not seem to find and answer....

How loose should the timing chain be?  And also how much play should there 
be?  This one is almost loose enough to slip off over the crankshaft gear.  
It never has jumped at all and the timing is usually correct, but I can't 
seem to find any specs on this.  Oh, it's an Olds 350 engine that has 
235,000 miles on it (up to this point, the bottom is still stock except for 
the cams). 

Thanks again,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: emory!ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu!bphdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 15:09:14 1993
Subject: Timing Chain Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6931
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In the process of working on one of my engines I came across a question I 
can not seem to find and answer....

How loose should the timing chain be?  And also how much play should there 
be?  This one is almost loose enough to slip off over the crankshaft gear.  
It never has jumped at all and the timing is usually correct, but I can't 
seem to find any specs on this.  Oh, it's an Olds 350 engine that has 
235,000 miles on it (up to this point, the bottom is still stock except for 
the cams). 

Thanks again,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: emory!ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu!bphdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 15:12:58 1993
Subject: Solid Motor Mounts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6932
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Is cracking the frame or breaking any welds a concern with solid motor
mounts.

My 86 Rx7 (along will all second generation 7's) has motor mounts very
close in to the sides of the engine and about level with the bottom
of the engine.  Therefore they don't provide much resistance to the
engine twisting.

There are companies that sell a bar that goe between the top of the
engine and fender wall.  This provides a longer moment arm and stops
much of the engine movement.  But, they are costly and I have heard
of damage being done to the fenders in high Hp engines.

So, if there is only a minimal chance of breaking something solid motor
mounts might be a cheap alternative?

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 16:51:46 1993
Subject: Re: Timing Chain Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6933
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> How loose should the timing chain be?  And also how much play should there 
> be?  This one is almost loose enough to slip off over the crankshaft gear.  
> It never has jumped at all and the timing is usually correct, but I can't 
> seem to find any specs on this.  Oh, it's an Olds 350 engine that has 
> 235,000 miles on it (up to this point, the bottom is still stock except for 
> the cams). 

   I had a '71 Cutlass with a 350.  The gear on the camshaft was made of
aluminum and had some sort of plastic coating on it.  On my engine the
coating disintigrated leaving little pieces of plastic to get sucked into
the oil pump.  There should be almost no play in the timing chain.  A real
engine builder can probably give you actual specs, but it should definitely
not be as loose as what you've described.

   Check out the gear on the cam.  If the chain has a lot of front to rear
play in it, then you probably have the same problem that I ran into.  If this
is really the case, I would also suggest dropping the oil pan and checking 
pump for pieces of plastic.  Any parts store should be able to provide you
with a steel replacement for the gear.  I also got tired of trying to dig
all of the plastic out of my oil pump and replaced the pickup on it while
I was in there.

   Hope this was of some help....

Larry



----------
Posted by: Larry Estep 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 16:59:42 1993
Subject: Get a new timing chain
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6934
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'd replace that timing chain.

I've had good luck with Edelbrock True Roller timing chains.  They have a
standard one that's good up to something like 6000 rpm and a more expensive
one that goes up to 8000 or something.  I've got the cheaper ones on three
cars and they stay nice and tight -- no deflection at all!  

If you've got one of those junky nylon gears on top you should definitely
change it.

If you get another brand, look for ones that are "true-roller".  For the
extra $15.00 or $20.00 extra over the cost of a stock one, they're worth it.

The true rollers look like doubled up motorcycle chains with pins that roll.

Just my opinion,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 19:45:18 1993
Subject: ford 351 pistons for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6935
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



	Set TRW L2442 F 030 pistons for 351 Ford - new - 
	351W, 77-81 heads only. Has .4 dome, 11:1 comp.
	SEE CATALOG for further details.

	It can go UPS. 
	Asking $225, At that price I'll pay shipping.
	(I have a sale pending on these, but the original offer was given
	a week to get the check to me and its been 2 weeks. I'll still
	honor his deal UNLESS someone else comes in first. He's been notified)
	If you're interested in it, send offer.


	Also:

	Set TRW L3004 F 030 cast pistons for 351W 73-76 Ford - new - 
	See catalog for detail

	It can go UPS. 
	Ask $80 + shipping
	If you're interested in it, send offer.


--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!rutgers.edu!news
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 19:54:21 1993
Subject: Misc hi-po chevy parts forsale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6936
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



---

--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

	Note some new stuff has been added since last posting.
	===================
	Miscellaneous mostly USED Hi-Po parts - small chevy stuff unless
	stated otherwise
	USED  good condition unless stated otherwise

	Moroso 8 qt straight sump pan and pump with pickup
	Manley 3/8 .100 oversize hardened pushrods 
	NASCAR 5/16 .100 oversize hardened pushrods
	Fuel Pump regulator Mallory #4207 $50 NEW
	ATI SFI approved Flex plate shield powerglide $50 NEW
	600 holley double pump with moroso reuseable gaskets 
	Steel 7 degree 1.437 inch small chevy valve retainers
	Fram HPG-1 canister type Fuel Filter 
	Cam Dynamics Vacum reserve reservoir
	Stock 400 chev used rods - pistons on still but are junk
	400 chev balancer stock needs seal saver
	2 - 350 balancers stock
	4 stock 350 rods. balance pads heavily ground down
	K&N Substack
	-Comp Cams 292 hyd cam with crane hi rev lifters and manly springs
		(sale pending on cam)
	Comp Cams magnum roller tip rockers 3/8 stud 1.52 ratio
	1 inch 4 hole metal carb spacer - sq flange
	1 inch open plenum composite carb spacer sq flange
	1 inch moroso 4 hole bakelite carb spacer
	Moroso Air pan kit for single 4 bbl - new
	Engine oil cooler kit - universal style - new
	-Set TRW L2442 F 030 pistons for 351 Ford - new - see catalog for details.
		(sale pending on TRW L2442 F 030 pistons)
	Set TRW L3004F030 cast pistons for 351W 73-76 Ford - new - see catalog for detail.
	Edelbrock Street tunnel ram - almost new!
	10" 3600 stall convertor for TH350/400 2 seasons old
	8" 5000 stall GER convertor for TH350/400 1/2 season old
	Hurst Comp Plus shifter - body only - new
	BlackJack headers: See a catalog for details on these. all new
		#3016 65-70 impala small block
		#3701 CJ Jeep w/amc v8, under chassis

Misc crud:
	Patch Panels:	New
		78-89 Suburban/Blazer/Truck Rear corner L & R
		76-89 Chevy Van - Sliding door lower edge
		AM-FM Mono radio out of 78 chevy van
		Tow receiver class 3 for 76-94 chevy van - used
		Thule #307 roof rack with locks NO OTHER acessories - new
			(48 inch rack with clamps for cars with gutters)

	All this stuff can go UPS. The patch panels and headers
	may provide me some packaging problems (if I have boxes for 
	those things they are really beat up.
	If you're interested in any of it, send offers or ask prices.

----------
Posted by: emory!rutgers.edu!news
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 21:16:24 1993
Subject: Air compressors?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6937
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  Hi all,
 I posted a message on rods and custom and didn't get much results. So I thought I
would try here.
 I am looking into getting a air compressor for my garage. I will mainly be using it
for running a

----------
Posted by: emory!spike.cpd.tandem.com!jerryh (Jerry Hendrickson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 21:30:53 1993
Subject: More air compressors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6938
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have an air compressor question too.  I've got a 2hp compressor
(which is a little small, but I'll deal with it) that I was recently
using to do some sand blasting to prep a motorcycle frame for painting.
I kept getting water in the lines, even after installing a 
filter/water trap between the compressor and hose.  A little water
won't hurt sandblasting much, but it'd be death to paint...
which is what I'd like to do next.

should I:
-buy a better filter/water trap?
-install the trap at the paint gun/sand blaster instead of the compressor?
-do something to clean out the cheapo rubber air line?  what?

I have been draining the compressor tank.


-- 
            Eric Murray                 ericm@microunity.com
In this game, the winner is also the loser, and the judge's decisions are final

----------
Posted by: emory!angst.MicroUnity.com!ericm (Eric Murray)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 22:03:20 1993
Subject: Re: Misc hi-po chevy parts forsale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6939
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Misc crud:
>       Patch Panels:   New
>               78-89 Suburban/Blazer/Truck Rear corner L & R
>               76-89 Chevy Van - Sliding door lower edge
>               AM-FM Mono radio out of 78 chevy van
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Curiosity at this time, is this the Delco unit?  How many $$$ are we
looking at?  I have a 79 GMC/Chev van that I may sell, would need a
radio to replace the one currently in it.

>               Tow receiver class 3 for 76-94 chevy van - used
>               Thule #307 roof rack with locks NO OTHER acessories - new
>                       (48 inch rack with clamps for cars with gutters)
>
>       All this stuff can go UPS. The patch panels and headers
>       may provide me some packaging problems (if I have boxes for
>       those things they are really beat up.
>       If you're interested in any of it, send offers or ask prices.
>
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!rutgers.edu!news
>
>
>

TIA-Bill

----------
Posted by: Bill Ingram 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 18 22:33:39 1993
Subject: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6940
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



   Last message got cut in half. 

 I am looking into adding a Air compressor to my garage. I sent a message to
rod-customs and got three replies, all of which recomended Craftsmen. Does
anyone have any experience with other brands? Don't get me wrong, the Craftsmen
compressor are nice, but the 6hp 60 gallon goes for $599. I can get a Campbell/
Hausfeld for around $410. That $200 could cover the cost of regulators and  a 
water trap maybe even a tool or two.
 If anyone has a compressor brand thay like, or one the dislike please let me know.
Xmas is almost here. If I don't get it soon, I might have to wait another year!
Thanks, jerryh@cpd.tandem.com  

----------
Posted by: emory!spike.cpd.tandem.com!jerryh (Jerry Hendrickson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 01:50:36 1993
Subject: air compressor filters
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6941
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The filter you need to get rid of the water is called a "coalescing" type
filter.  Get a big one with a 1/2" NPT in and outs so that it'll have no
problem keeping up with the flow of air you're using.  Make sure you hook it
up right (look for the arrow on the casting) because it'll only work in one
direction.  The coalescing filters get something like 99% of the water out. 
You might want to get a tiny inline filter right near the input of the spray
gun.

Remember to drain the coalescing filter often,  they can fill up quick on a
humid day.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 11:50:02 1993
Subject: Cruising/Racing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6942
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


        Any interest in discussing what we actually DO with our Hotrods or
        Musclecars. Racing, Cruising, Showing , in your area. Here in Ohio
        our year is shot till spring. Since I'm new here, I won't start,
        unless there is any interest .

        Where do you hang out ?

        Wayne                 1969 GTO

... My good car is a Pontiac !!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!wayne.fiala (Wayne Fiala)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 11:55:01 1993
Subject: Re:Olds Heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6943
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 
 
 * Reply to msg originally in AltHotrod

 -=> Quoting Hotrod11-17-93  22:06ixie.com to All <=-


 Ho> I'm lookig for Olds Big Block Heads. I have a NHRA legal stocker
 Ho> and desperately need a set of "F" castings. They need to be 
 Ho> relatively a virgin set. That is no porting or extensive valve 
 Ho> jobs. If anybody has a clue, please e-mail me at 
 Ho> laurer@ee.rochester.edu

 Ho> I would also be interested in pre-71 blocks and cranks.

 Ho> Thanks in advance

 Ho> ----------
 Ho> Posted by: David Laurer 


        You could try:  Jerry's Warpath Restoration Parts
                        7171 W. 130th St.
                        Cleveland, Oh. 44130
                        Ph. 216-845-4612
                        Fax 216-845-5225
         
        He is a Pontiac guy, one of the larger ones in the country.
        But does dabble in Olds, and is a former drag racer, and holds 
        a few (or did) national records, with his 100% Pontiac machines.
        Can't hurt ! Might suggest to you some Olds guys if nothing else.

        Wayne               1969 GTO

... My good car is a Pontiac !!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!wayne.fiala (Wayne Fiala)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 12:01:26 1993
Subject: Re: how to join
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6944
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 
 
 * Reply to msg originally in AltHotrod

 -=> Quoting Hotrod11-17-93  21:57ixie.com to All <=-

 >Subject: Re: hey how do I join
 >
 >        I'm  confused, I am seeing a whole thread of notes on the alt.hotrod
 >        newsgroup. Is this the newsgroup, or am I seeing a mailing list ? 
 >        I cannot receive mailing lists here now, so can I participate
 >        through the newsgroup, or will I be missing something.
 >        Quite honestly do not understand mailing lists anyhow !

 Ho> This list is set up in the best way you can imagine.  If you have
 Ho> net access, read the net version (alt.hotrod), and do not join the 
 Ho> maillist.  But to post, rather than posting to the net, mail your
 Ho> posting  to hotrod@dixie.com, and it will be posted on the net as well
 Ho> as go  to the mailing list.  All messages go both places.

        Thanks to all who helped with my question. I now understand more                                                                              
        than before, and wish more of the lists/newsgroups were like this.
        The BBS I pick up Internet E-mail and Usenet, is a subcription
        board. They have over 3000 conferences, off some 20 + networks. They 
        have 35 nodes. They found to many people receiving extremely large 
        mail lists. I guess, the list mail are sent one at a time, where
        the newsgroup mail comes in compressed packets. So no more list mail
        for now, till they can make some software changes on my BBS. 
        I thought to post this, in case it will help anyone else.

        NOW, back to our regularly scheduled show !!

        Wayne Fiala                     1969 GTO



... My good car is a Pontiac !!
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!wayne.fiala (Wayne Fiala)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 12:11:45 1993
Subject: Re: More air compressors 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6945
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>should I:
>-buy a better filter/water trap?
>-install the trap at the paint gun/sand blaster instead of the compressor?

   Both.  That's the way most people I know do it.   Also, adding a
aftercooler before the first water seperator can help get more water
out of the compressed air.    

   I can just see the "Hi-Perf Compressor Aftercooler" thread starting.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                  --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu <--  
            "Hard Acceleration Saves Costly Aggravation"

----------
Posted by: Bob "$1/meg" Valentine 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 12:17:19 1993
Subject: Re:  More air compressors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6946
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 The water vapor in the tank will condense out at the point of the greatest
expansion. This will be at the blaster nozzle or spray gun head, unless you
are running full bore and some other part of the system becomes the main
restriction.

 A precooler and water trap prior to the tank might help to remove some of
the water, maybe enough that the final reexpansion doesn't hit the dew
point. If your flow isn't too great then a dessicant type dryer could
finish the job. Some filters only trap liquid water and oil; this doesn't
address the vapor which will condense just outside the final valve.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 14:47:27 1993
Subject: Re: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6947
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>  I am looking into adding a Air compressor to my garage. I sent a message to
> rod-customs and got three replies, all of which recomended Craftsmen. Does
> anyone have any experience with other brands? Don't get me wrong, the Craftsmen
> compressor are nice, but the 6hp 60 gallon goes for $599. I can get a Campbell/
> Hausfeld for around $410. That $200 could cover the cost of regulators and  a 
> water trap maybe even a tool or two.

I thought I responded to this before, but it may have been another list.
I have the Campbell Hausfeld 2.5hp 20 gal that I got for about $300. It
works pretty well (although it could stand to be gone through and teflon-taped
at all the joints). It gets a bit tired if you are sanding, sandblasting, or
using an edge cutter, but otherwise it meets my needs fine. The 6hp 60gal
(220v?) sounds really nice. The actual compression hardware and tank (as
I heard it) is Ingersol-Rand hardware.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 16:47:04 1993
Subject: Re: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6948
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------
X-Sun-Data-Type: text
X-Sun-Data-Description: text
X-Sun-Data-Name: text
X-Sun-Content-Lines: 22



>  I am looking into adding a Air compressor to my garage. I sent a message to
> rod-customs and got three replies, all of which recomended Craftsmen. Does
> anyone have any experience with other brands? Don't get me wrong, the Craftsmen
> compressor are nice, but the 6hp 60 gallon goes for $599. I can get a Campbell/
> Hausfeld for around $410. That $200 could cover the cost of regulators and  a 
> water trap maybe even a tool or two.
 
	I have a craftsman 60 gal. (5 hp?) 220v. I find that when
I use my air grinder, hand sand blaster, or a spray gun, I get a lot of 
runtime on compressor and a lot of water. I need a better drier.
A friend tells me that the compressors, being aluminum, hammer out the
crank bearings. (He used it 8 hrs/day 6 days a week) I have not had
this problem, but I use mine very little. I forget what it costs
but I got it on a sale and felt I did ok. 
For price, I'd try (pace|sams club| one of those buying warehouses)
or harbor freight. They tend to sell the Cambell units and usually have
good prices.

----- End Included Message -----

----------
X-Sun-Data-Type: default
X-Sun-Data-Description: default
X-Sun-Data-Name: .signature
X-Sun-Content-Lines: 5


--------------------------
Derek J. Pietro
Picker International
derekp@stdavids.picker.com

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 16:53:50 1993
Subject: GHG-12
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6949
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


   Someplace in the discussion of GHG-12 in the past few years somebody 
posted the patent history of R-12 and R-134.  Did anybody save it?  Or 
even remember it?  I have some of the surrounding discussion, but would
like more ( even more than in PEM ) for a letter I am writing.  

   You can send cuts from newsfeed, or anything else you have.  I'll
sift through it.

   Thanks.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 17:02:21 1993
Subject: Re: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6950
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  I have an Ingersol-Rand 5hp 60 gallon compressor that I bought used about
  3 years ago for about $350.  It was made in 1987.  It's been pretty
  reliable except for the motor pulley I had to replace a few
  months ago ($5).  It's pretty noisy too.  I've seen new ones around for 
  around $430 and up.
  
  

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 21:38:47 1993
Subject:  Re: Cruising/Racing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6951
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

please
unsubscribe
me!!!!

----------
Posted by: emory!opus.ncssm.edu!WILLETTN (Slasher)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Nov 19 21:43:44 1993
Subject: Re: ford 351 pistons for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6952
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Derek,
	I just talked to the Motorsports guy and he said that he sent you a 
letter saying that he would only do COD.  I'm sorry about that as he was getting
quite a good deal.  My apologies.
Chip

----------
Posted by: emory!baghwan.nsc.com!barrett (Chip Barrett-Smith 8-582-0742)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov 20 10:53:41 1993
Subject: MAKE MONEY FAST
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6953
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


If you're curious, take a second and read this...


Dear Friend,

	My name is Dave Rhodes.  In September 1988, my car was repossesed, and the
bill collectors were hounding me like you wouldn't believe.  I was laid
off, and my unemployment checks had run out.  The only escape I had from
the pressure of failure was my computer and my modem.  I longed to turn my
advocation into my vocation.
	
	This January 1989, my family and I went on a ten day cruise to the
tropics.  I bought a Lincoln Town Car for CASH in February 1989.  I am
currently building a home on the west coast of Florida with a private pool,
boat slip, and a beautiful view of the bay from my breakfast room table and
patio.  I will never have to work again.  Today I am rich!  I have earned
over $400,000.00(Four Hundred Thousand Dollars) to date and will become a
millionaire within four or five months.  Anyone can do the same.  This m
oney making program works perfectly every time, 100% of the time.  I have
NEVER failed to earn $50,000.00 or more whenever I wanted.  Best of all,
you never have to leave home except to go to your mailbox or post office.

	In October 1988, I received a letter in the mail telling me how I could
earn $50,000.00 or more whenever I wanted.  I was naturally very skeptical
and threw the letter on the desk next to my computer.  It's funny though,
when you're desperate and backed into a corner, your mind does crazy
things.  I spent a frustating day looking through the want ads for a job
with a future.  The pickings were sparse at best.  That night I tried to
unwind by booting my computer and calling several bulletin boards.  I read
 several of the message posts and then glanced at the letter next to the
computer.  All at once it came to me.  I now had the key to my dreams.

	I realized that with the power of the computer, I could expand and enhance
this money making formula into the most unbelievable cash flow generator
that has ever been created.  I substituted the computer bulletin boards in
place of the post office and electronically did by computer what others
were doing 100% by mail.  Now only a few letters are mailed manually.  Most
of the hard work is speedily downloaded to other bulletin boards throughout
the world.  If you believe that someday you deserve that lucky 
break that you have waited for all your life, then simply follow the
diections below.  Your dreams will come true.

Sincerely yours,

Dave Rhodes


-- INSTRUCTIONS --

Follow these directions EXACTLY, and in 20 to 60 days, you will have
received well over $50,000.00 cash, all yours.  This program has remained
successful because of the HONESTY and INTEGRITY of the participants. 
Please continue its success by carefully adhering to the instructions. 
Welcome to the world of Mail Order!  This little business is a little
different than most mail order houses.  Your product is not sold or
tangible, but rather a service.  You are a business of developing Mailing
Lists.  Many l
arge corporations are happy to pay big bucks for quality lists(the money
made from the mailing lists is secondary to the income which is made from
people like yourself requesting that they be included in that list).

[1] Immediately mail $1.00 to the first five(5) names listed below starting
at number 1 and going through number 5.  Send cash only please(total
investment is $5.00).  Enclose a note with each letter stating "Please add
my name to your mailing list".  (This is a legitimate service that you are
requesting, and you are paying $1.00 for this service).

[2] Remove the name that appears at number 1 on the list.  Move the other 9
names up one position.  (Number 2 will become number 1, and number 3 will
become number 2, etc.).  Place your name, address, and zip code in the
number 10 position.

[3] Post the new letter with your name in the number 10 position into
ten(10) separate bulletin boards in the message base or to the file
section, call the file MAKE.MONEY.FAST.

[4] Within 60 days, you will receive over $50,000.00 in CASH.  Keep a copy
of this file yourself so that you can use it again whenever you need money.
 As soon as you mail out these letters, you are automatically in the mail
order business, and people are sending you $1.00 to be placed on your
mailing list.  This list can be then be rented to a list broker that can be
found in the Yellow Pages for additional income on a regular basis.  This
list will become more valuable as it grows in size.  This is a ser
vice.  This is perfectly legal.  If you have any doubts, refer to Title 18,
Section 1302 & 1341 of the postal lottery laws.

NOTE:  Make sure you retain EVERY name and address sent to you, either on
computer or hard copy.  Do not discard the names and notes they send you. 
This is PROOF that you are truly providing a service, and should the IRS or
any other government agency question you, you can provide them with this
proof!

Remember, as each post is downloaded and the instructions carefully
followed, five members will be reimbursed for their participation as a List
Developer with one dollar each.  Your name will move up the list
geometrically so that when your name reaches the number 5 position, you
will be receiving thousands of dollars in cash.

-- NAMES --

1.  Elisha Lansman MB
		1087 Brandeis University
		Waltham,  MA  02254-9110

2.  Dmitri Linde
    744 Mayfield Ave.
    Stanford, CA   94305

3.  Claude Suddreth
    131 W. Jackson
    South Sapulpa, OK   74066

4.  Lirong Chen
    124 Stanton Ave. Apt. 6
    Ames, IA   50014

5.  Angel Negron
    Box 4583
    USAFA, CO   80841

6.  Hugh MacMullan
    19 Skylonda Dr.
    Woodside, CA   94062

7.  Scott MacFarland
    1224 E. Lemon #144
    Tempe, AZ   85281

8.  Kevin Trigger
    125 Honeysuckle Dr.
    Boalsburg, PA   16827

9. Rich Wood
    113 Keenan Hall
    Notre Dame, IN   46556-5615

10. Mark Scheer
		  5747 Ridgeway #19
      Haslett, MI 48840


The following letters were written by members participating in the program:

About six months ago, I received several of these letters in the mail and
ignored them.  About two weeks later, I noticed the same letter in a
bulletin board and thought it might be worth a try on my computer. 
Obviously, I was skeptical, but I figured the worst that could happen would
be losing my five dollars.  Nothing happened for about two weeks.  The
fourth week rolled around, and I couldn't believe what happened.  I can't
say I received $50,000.00, but it was definitely well over $35,000.00!! 
For th
e first time in years, I got out of debt.  Follow the instructions and get
ready to enjoy!!  Please send a copy of this along with the enclosed letter
so that we can convince people who are skeptical that it really works! 
Good Luck.

-- Charles Kust
   St. Agathe, Quebec

--------------------

My name's Paul Marks.  Now I'm the number 10 on the list.  I also tried a
process like this through the mail about two years ago.  I mailed only two
letters to two of my friends and made $107.  I know this will work!  I'm
very happy to see something like this again.  KEEP THIS MOVING!

--------------------

I am now the number 10 and am not sure about this.  Let's all be honest and
as Paul says, let's keep it moving.

-- Elisha Landman(if you don't try, you'll never know!)

--------------------

Well, now I'm number 10, and it seems to be working.  The only way this
system can fail now is if you ignore it and the exponential growth stops.

-- Dmitri Lide

--------------------

Hey, now I'm number 10.  May the force be with us all, as we begin in this
our endeavor...

-- Angel Negron

--------------------

Howdy!  Wonder how Elisha Landman is doing...

-- Hugh MacMullan

--------------------

Hi.  Now I'm number 10, and I sure hope this works.  I'll be graduating in
May 1994, and I sure could use a little cash.  I included my telephone
number with my address above -- when I reach number 1 on your list, give me
a call, and I'll honestly ley you know how it's going.  Good luck to
everyone!

-- Kevin Trigger

--------------------

As you probably guessed, I'm the new number 10 on the list, and like many
others,
I'm not sure if this will work.  My only consolation is that I have nothing
to lose but $5.00 and everything to gain by at least trying.  If you're
reading this and wondering whether you should try this, just do it.  It's
only five bucks for crying out loud.  What do you have to lose?????  Good
luck and keep this thing rolling.

-- Rich Wood

--------------------

Keep it going!  Yes, I am the new #10.  It is 11/19/93 (and all subsequent
posts should include this too) and I really hope I make it to #1.  I have
sent my $1.00's; I've never answered one of these either but it seems like
everyone else shares that too.  If everybody played by the rules than this
CAN'T fail.  Good luck!!!!!

-- Mark Scheer
  

----------
Posted by: emory!anon.penet.fi!an39852 (Mark Scheer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov 20 11:03:32 1993
Subject: Re: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6954
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I have the Campbell Hausfeld 2.5hp 20 gal that I got for about $300.

 I have the 5hp, 60 gallon upright.  I had to have a 220v line run, and
I put it in the shed to cut down on noise.

 It's-a-verra-nahhsss, but it takes a while to pump up the tank and the
air manifold in the shop.  I'd kinda like to have another small 10-gal
compressor just for blowing off parts or whatver, little jobs when a
shot of air is handy.  There's probably no good reason not to leave the
compressor and manifold pressurized all the time, but I'm paranoid.

 The small compressors can be very useful as long as you're not wild
with the air tools.
                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov 20 11:10:00 1993
Subject: Re: Timing Chain Questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6955
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  
 I would replace it if I was you.. You already have it half 
 apart ! 
  
 Other wise you might loose a piston or a valve if it skipped
 in a big way !
 
##

--
 

----------
Posted by: emory!freenet.carleton.ca!al184 (Paul Tindall)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Nov 20 11:15:48 1993
Subject: Re: Misc hi-po chevy parts forsale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6956
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  
  How much do you want for the 3600 stall for a TH350 ??
  
  And how much do you think it would cost to get it shipped
  to Ottawa, Canada ??
  

--
 

----------
Posted by: emory!freenet.carleton.ca!al184 (Paul Tindall)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 22 15:39:31 1993
Subject: Re: MAKE MONEY FAST
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6957
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

  All I know is that this is one GREAT reason for removing the Usenet
gateway from the hotrod list.  This crap really burns my ass...

  Ron "Grrrrr, I Hate Pyramid Scams" Rader

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 22 15:44:49 1993
Subject: RE: More air compressors
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6958
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I have an air compressor question too.  I've got a 2hp compressor
>(which is a little small, but I'll deal with it) that I was recently
>using to do some sand blasting to prep a motorcycle frame for painting.
>I kept getting water in the lines, even after installing a 
>filter/water trap between the compressor and hose.  A little water
>won't hurt sandblasting much, but it'd be death to paint...
>which is what I'd like to do next.
>
>should I:
>-buy a better filter/water trap?

Don't think that will help much.  There are medical type filters that 
actually cool the incoming air, condense out the water, then heat the air 
with heat it got from the incomming side.  Sort of an air - to - air heat 
exchanger with the same air in and out.  I believe these are expensive.

I run dual filters on my compressor - the first is attached to the tank - 
before any pressure regulators or the like.  It is pretty much useless 
since it rapidly heats up - I initially had it set so that I could soak the 
filter in a ice-water bath.  I never did this.  The tank is a portable 5hp 
30 gallon Sears with all the plumbing redone by myself (larger lines 
through-out).  On the wall - with a flexible line - I have a second filter. 
 This one takes a long while before it sees any heat.  On high humidity 
days I still see some moisture but not alot.

>-install the trap at the paint gun/sand blaster instead of the compressor?

You can buy a small throw away filter that attaches to the inlet of the 
spray gun.  I have a set up that goes filter - small regulator/gauge - 
spray gun.  I haven't noticed any problem with the paint - but then again I 
haven't painted that much.


I'd be interested in hearing any other suggestions.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 22 16:03:02 1993
Subject: RE: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6959
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

About air compressor choices:

Sears has a local parts warehouse near my home - from here I can order any 
part - even for some really old stuff.  I can also grab the counter man and 
choke the S*** out of him if he gives me any trouble ( just kidding - a 
little anyway ).  So face to face I can get anypart.

Now, however, I have butchered the air compressor.  Its still a 5hp 
portable with a 30 gallon tank, but when I got it I broke a 3/8 rubber hose
, and the compressor was able to maintain 90psi - at maximum flow (10 cfm 
at 90 psi).  So basically my compressor could not flow enough air to 
overcome the 5hp motor - at least below 90psi.  The problem is that Sears 
uses 1/4" line throughout it system.  I have since update the compressor to 
3/8" galvanized pipe - including all filters and regulators.

Comming off the tank I have a black-iron 4-way tee.  One side to the tank, 
one to a pressure relieve valve (high flow), one side to the on / off 
switch and the last side to the filter.  After the filter it goes through a 
high flow regulator and a 3/8's - quick disconnect.  The compressor is 
currently in my basement - with a 3/8's galvanized pipe going through the 
cinder blocks - to another filter / tap on the outside.  Since I mainly use 
the aircompressor outside this works well.  However,  the other day we had 
an "indian summer" day, and I changed the oil in the compressor - and may 
have overfilled it, which all resulted in some moisture appearing on the 
piece of wood I was sanding.  I also noticed that the air nozzle did not 
completely dry another piece - it left some moisture.  The air comming out 
of the air compressor felt dry on the hands but you never know.

Personally I can't image a body shop having "better" filtration or moisture 
control.  As far as costs - I bought it on sale.  At the time it was the 
largest compressor (both in HP and tank capacity) that was still portable.  
This would allow me to put it in my blazer and take it to a friends house - 
and use my Cloths dryer to air compressor adapter.

FYI  Most of my tools are portable enough that I can take them to friends 
houses... but right now I think my wife would kill me if I did.... too many 
projects right at home...

Dirk 

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 22 16:10:03 1993
Subject: RE: air compressor filters
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6960
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Get a big one with a 1/2" NPT in and outs so that it'll have no

Hmmm, about my earlier post.  The pipe size I use is identical to the 
threads that are cut into the tank.  I though it was 3/8's but it definitly 
measures 1/2 OD or maybe a little more.  The compressor has been 100% 
reliable for the last 3 years so I never did anything more with it.

Dirk 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 22 20:43:57 1993
Subject: Re: M-AKE MONEY FAST
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6961
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> All I know is that this is one GREAT reason for removing the Usenet
-> gateway from the hotrod list.  This crap really burns my ass...
-> Ron "Grrrrr, I Hate Pyramid Scams" Rader

 It hit every newsgroup I read, including some obscure places like
comp.os.os2.ver1x.  We wouldn't have seen it here, but John's off
software whoring and the list is on autopilot until he gets back.
Nothing to worry about.
                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 22 20:49:12 1993
Subject: RE: MAKE MONEY FAST
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6962
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

How did this Pyramid s*** get on the list!!!!

Hey Mark Sheer - what if I send you the list - will you send another $5?

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 12:47:32 1993
Subject: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6963
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
by an octane upgrade?


-- 
Disclaimer:  Don't rely   |    Michael B. Stone
on e-mail legal advice.   |    Santa Monica, CA      N6NHT 344
Don't violate the law.    |    (310) 587-3344 
Drink your milk.  Zip up. |    (310) 587-0788 fax 

----------
Posted by: emory!netcom.com!mbstone (Michael Stone)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 12:53:55 1993
Subject: crusher legislation, an update (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6964
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1993 16:29:18 -0500 (CDT)
> From: JIMK@bvc.edu
> Subject: crusher legislation, an update
> 
> Hi, all:
> 
> 	I've just dialed in to the Library of Congress, status of Federal 
> Legislation to check on the status of clunker bills that could affect this 
> group, and this hobby.  After using air pollution (45 hits), crusher (3 
> hits) and old car (6 hits as search terms, I came up w/ one bill.
> 
> 	Now in Ways and Means, House Bill    H.R. 2925, euphemistically 
> known as the "junk your clunker tax credit act of 1993" is officially 
> titled "A bill to amend the Internal Revenue Code of 1986 to allow 
> individuals a credit against income tax for the sale of older, polluting 
> motor vehicles to CERTAIN purchasers who scrap these vehicles." 
> 
> 	Rep. Christopher Cox (Republican), California (Newport Beach) is 
> the principal sponsor, w/ 8 cosponsors. 
> 
> 	Who are these certain purchasers?  I think he should hear from us.
> I think this bill is still in committee.  I'll check again later.
> 
> 	For those of you who wish to eyeball the status of bills in the 
> U.S. Congress, telnet locis.loc.gov     Hit 2, for federal legislation, 
> then 7 for 1993 bills, and follow directions.
> 
> 	Hope this is helpful.
> 
> 
> Jim Kennedy 
> 

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 12:59:34 1993
Subject: RE: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6965
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Comming off the tank I have a black-iron 4-way tee.  One side to the tank, 
>one to a pressure relieve valve (high flow), one side to the on / off 
>switch and the last side to the filter.  After the filter it goes through a 
>
>Dirk 
>
Why not put the filter between the compressor and the tank, so it stays
cleaner too (he naively asks :)?


Carl Ijames     ijames@helix.nih.gov


----------
Posted by: emory!helix.nih.gov!ijames (Carl F. Ijames)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 13:05:04 1993
Subject: Small block confusion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6966
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        I guess it's time for me to avail myself of the collective knowledge of
alt.hotrod to ask a question about Chevy small blocks.  I was perusing a book
containing Corvette sales brochures and came across some confusing numbers
concerning the hp and torque figures for mid-70's small blocks.  I should note
here that my interest is not purely academic since some of the confusion
surrounds the engine in my '75 Corvette (L82).
        The numbers:  In '75 (with the introduction of the catalytic converter,
not an auspicious year powerwise) Chevy offered two engines in the Corvette.
The base L48, advertised as making 165hp @ 3800rpm and 255lbs/ft at 2400rpm
and the optional L82 with 205hp@4800 and 255lbs/ft@3600.  I guess I am a
little bit surprised that both engines produce the same amount of torque
but the mystery deepens.  Skipping to '77, the advertising brochures list the
same two engines with the following specs: L82 - 210hp@5200rpm and 255lb/ft
@3600rpm; L48 - 180hp@4000rpm and 270lb/ft@2400rpm.  Now I'm really surprised.
The base L48 produces more torque than the optional L82.  Since, in my own
mind, I have always sort of equated torque with acceleration these figures
suggest to me that the L48 should accelerate at least as well as the L82.
But my other sources all show 0-30 and 0-60 times in favor of the L82.  I
realize my perception is a gross oversimplification of the relationship
between torque and acceleration but I am curious as to the apparent
contradiction between the specs and the performance.  I assume it has
much to do with the torque curves of the two engines so maybe my question
boils down to whether anyone out there has a handle on the difference in
the torque vs. rpm output of the small blocks in question.
        As a final note, I have to admit that my curiosity is heightened by
my "seat of the pants" impressions of the differences in the characteristics
of the two cars that I drive regularly.  My daily driver is a '90 Taurus
SHO, which has 220hp and 200lb/ft at ????(high - sorry, forgot the number)
rpm.  The SHO, above about 4000rpm, accelerates very strongly.  At lower rpm,
though, I sometimes fear I could be out-accelerated by a Rabbit diesel
running on three cylinders (used to have one of those, the acceleration is
"leisurely" at best).  The Corvette, on the other hand, is very responsive
even below 2000rpm, so much more so that I was surprised to learn that there
was a difference of only 55lb/ft in peak torque.  Again, I guess it just
reflects the difference in the torque curves of the two engines.  Has anyone
ever seen the torque vs. rpm curve for the SHO?  Sorry for rambling so, but
curiosity seems to overwhelm my rational side at times and, having been a
regular reader of alt.hotrod for some time, I figured if I couldn't get the
info here I would be forever conjuring up imaginary curves.

                                        Thanks in advance,

                                        Larry Stanford
                                        STANFORD@WAISMAN.WISC.EDU

----------
Posted by: emory!retina.waisman.wisc.edu!stanford
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 13:41:35 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6967
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
> by an octane upgrade?
> 
I was wondering the same thing.  I was told that octane in gas simply raises
the point at which knock begins, so it doesn't seem that it would help many
engines.  Of course, if it allows an engine to run at higher RPMs without
causing any kind of pre-ignition damage, then I can see it helping.  Maybe
I've answered my own question, but I don't think so.  

Any insight is appreciated.

Paul
--
polson@astro.atk.com
"God is real, unless declared integer."

----------
Posted by: Paul Olson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 15:49:17 1993
Subject: Small block confusion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6968
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Larry Stanford wrote about horsepower and torque ratings and
their relationship to acceleration.

Acceleration is produced by force, usually coming from the rear
tires.  This force is a function of the torque applied to the
axle and the tire size.  F = T / R wher R is the radius of the
tires.

The torque into the axle is slightly less than the torque
developed by the engine, multiplied by the transmission and
differential ratios.  It's slightly less because of losses
in the gears, bearings, and so forth.  Obviously, for best
acceleration you want the largest numerical ratios in all the
gears involved.  The catch is that this means your engine RPM
will be very high and the engine torque will consequently be
very low, defeating the purpose.  A compromise is necessary
to obtain optimum performance.

To really obtain best overall acceleration it is necessary to
keep the torque as high as possible over the RPM range in which
the engine must operate.  Manufacturer's specs only indicate the
peak torque, and not the torque over the RPM range.  Here are
two graphs which show two engines with the same torque ratings:


T                                     *
O                                 *      *
R                               *          *
Q                              *             *
U                             *                *
E                           *                    *
.                        *                         *
.                     *
.                 *
....................................................RPM
                                 A       B

T                            * * * * *
O                        *             *
R                   *                    *
Q               *                          *
U            *                               *
E         *                                    *
.      *                                         *
.                                                  *


From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 15:55:35 1993
Subject: compressor pipe sizes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6969
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Most portable compressors are set up with 1/4" NPT plumbing.  For pipe sizes,
you don't go by the outside diameter, you go by the nominal inside diameter
of the pipe.  So, a 1/4" pipe has an outside diameter closer to 1/2".  NPT,
or National Pipe Thread fittings have tapered threads.  If you've got
something with tapered threads, made in the US, it's almost always NPT. 
There are some British fittings with less taper and some with no taper.

The confusion between tubing fittings and pipe fittings is because tubing is
measured by the O.D. and pipe is measured by the I.D.

There are lots of NPT fittings on car engines.  The oil pressure sender at
the back of a Chevy small-block is a 1/8" NPT.  The manifold heater hose
fittings are something like 1/2".  There's also an NPT fitting for the temp
sender, ports on aftermarket manifolds, etc.  I always use teflon tape on NPT
fittings, which makes it easy to dissasemble, and makes them leakproof (as
long as you know how to wind it on right).  They sell teflon-containing goop
which supposedly takes the place of teflon tape, but I don't like it. 
Nothing beats the teflon tape.

By the way, don't ever use teflon tape on flare or compression type fittings
like brake lines, transmission lines etc.  The seal on these is confined to
the area between the flare on the tube and the cone on the fitting.  It
serves no purpose to put teflon tape on the threads of a compression fitting.
You also don't ever want small pieces of teflon tape to get into your
transmisson or brakes, because they'll wind up clogging up some small
orifice.


Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 16:40:11 1993
Subject: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6971
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Help! A friend has a small block chevy that he thinks is a 283.
I can't seem to pinpoint the id on the pad  (Dave?)
It could be an early 60's engine.
The last 2 digits are- WI

Thanks,  Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 17:40:55 1993
Subject: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6972
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
-> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I
-> expect by an octane upgrade?

 A station in the next town sells CAM2 racing gas at the pump.  It's
interesting to watch people to a doubletake when they see it.

 Putting it in a '93 would be a *bad* idea.  It can poison your
catalytic convertor and oxygen sensor.  You could live with the
convertor if you're not in a Smog Nazi state, but all the engine
management is keyed to the O2 sensor, and your car would run pretty
crummy without it.
                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 17:50:47 1993
Subject: Hi-Octane Fuel and Adaptive EFI
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6973
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


FYI,

If you are going to try and run higher octane fuel in a stock engine
w/ knock sensor and adaptive controls, remember this ..

The adaptive algorithm has a time component also .. you should not
see an instant change ..

However, if you disconnect ECU power at fill up, and then run a tank
the system should adapt lambda and spark advance to the new fuel ..

Suggest also not quite filling the tank .. this will keep fewer vapors
from entering carbon canister purge system .. 

Reason: Per EPA regs .. adaptation doesn't occur when the purge system is
operational ... 

DONT FORGET to drop all power to ECU when changing back to "normal" fuel
as you don't want you car pinging itself to death!

FYI: When I say disconnect power; I really mean cause the ECU to forget
  it's adaptive params .. on BOSCH you just drop ECU power, on others
  who knows ... read the manual ;)

Jim Conforti
BOSCH DME 1.x Hacker at Large




----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 17:59:19 1993
Subject: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6974
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

   Date: Tue, 23 Nov 93 15:54 EST
   From: rlr@bbt.com (Powdered Toast Man)

   >> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
   >> by an octane upgrade?

   >I was wondering the same thing.  I was told that octane in gas simply raises
   >the point at which knock begins, so it doesn't seem that it would help many
   >engines.

     If you've got an engine with a knock sensor and closed-loop feedback
   control system (I'd bet money the '93 Mustang does) you could potentially
   see a performance advantage with higher octane fuel.  Higher octane ==>
   greater anti-knock capacity ==> allows the engine control system to run
   more ignition advance.

Um, hate to disillusion you guys, but there are a couple of fallacies in
here.  First, V8 Mustangs built to date have no knock sensor; timing is
strictly via table lookup (although you can adjust the base timing
mechanically).  Second, it's widely advertised that the Mustang's head
design doesn't really benefit from the slower flame front travel of race
gas.

Many Mustangs list readers have had great success advancing the base
timing from the stock 10 degrees BTDC to 13-14 degrees.  You will need
super unleaded for this.  My experience is that it works great for short
hauls, but not so great on long trips; I've long since returned my car's
timing to stock.

To get on the Mustangs list, send mail to mustangs-request@cup.hp.com.
 -- Chuck "Mustang maniac" Fry

----------
Posted by: emory!freud.arc.nasa.gov!chucko (Chuck Fry)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Tue Nov 23 18:01:30 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6970
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
>> by an octane upgrade?

>I was wondering the same thing.  I was told that octane in gas simply raises
>the point at which knock begins, so it doesn't seem that it would help many
>engines.

  If you've got an engine with a knock sensor and closed-loop feedback
control system (I'd bet money the '93 Mustang does) you could potentially
see a performance advantage with higher octane fuel.  Higher octane ==>
greater anti-knock capacity ==> allows the engine control system to run
more ignition advance.

  Try comparing fuel mileage and acceleration times running regular
unleaded with F.M. and A. running the higher octane fuel.

  Ron "Have To Experiment With My Wife's EFI Nissan" Rader

----------
Posted by: emory!bbt.com!rlr (Powdered Toast Man)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 18:44:10 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6975
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>>> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
>>> by an octane upgrade?
>
>>I was wondering the same thing.  I was told that octane in gas simply raises
>>the point at which knock begins, so it doesn't seem that it would help many
>>engines.
>
>  If you've got an engine with a knock sensor and closed-loop feedback
>control system (I'd bet money the '93 Mustang does) you could potentially
>see a performance advantage with higher octane fuel.  Higher octane ==>
>greater anti-knock capacity ==> allows the engine control system to run
>more ignition advance.
>
>  Try comparing fuel mileage and acceleration times running regular
>unleaded with F.M. and A. running the higher octane fuel.

This is only true if the control system is setup to make adjustments
in both directions. Many are one-sided, they only adjust for inadequate
octane fuel then return to a stock setting regardless of higher than
specified octane fuel. While it makes sense that newer engine management
systems should take advantage of higher octane fuel, it not a given.

Jeff

----------
Posted by: "Jeff Giordano" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 18:49:10 1993
Subject: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6976
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

small block chevy I.D.

If it's got the oil filler tube coming out of the front of the intake
manifold, it's probably either a 283 or a 327.  If it's a two barrel, it's
probably a 283.  If it's a four barrel, it could be either.  If you can't
find a match on the serial numbers, take off a head and measure the bore and
stroke.  All the old 283s and 327s were factory Chevy orange as far as I
know.  If it has an oil filler tube, but no pvc valve threaded bung, then it
might be a REALLY old one.  

Good luck,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 18:54:23 1993
Subject: 66 Fairlane horn ring
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6977
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


i am in deperate need of the plain chrome horn ring for a 
 66 Ford Fairlane. do you have one, or know of where i might
 try ?

i have tried everwhere i could think of...

thx,                                    "for evil to triumph, 
sixto                                     good men need only do nothing."
 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!pyramid.com!sixto (Sixto Bernal)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 18:59:05 1993
Subject: Re: Small block confusion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6978
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I replied to Larry Stanford about torque and aceleration but the
last part of my posting (after the graphs) was lost.  To recap
my comments:

T                                     *
O                                 *      *
R                               *          *
Q                              *             *
U                             *                *
E                           *                    *
.                        *                         *
.                     *
.                 *
----------------------------------------------------RPM
                                 A       B

T                            * * * * *
O                        *             *
R                   *                    *
Q               *                          *
U            *                               *
E         *                                    *
.      *                                         *
.                                                  *


From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 19:03:46 1993
Subject: RE: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6979
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Octane simply tells you about the fuels tendancy to knock.  Higher octane 
fuel actually may give you less power since the tendancy to combust is 
lower - kind of a side affect.

Bottom line.  If your mustang runs fine on 87 octane then you will not see 
any improvement with 100 octane.  I suspect your car would run better with 
89 or 93 octane.  Especially if you advance your static timing to 13 
degrees BTDC.  Go with the cheapest gas that doesn't deter your engines 
performance.  Your mustang doesn't have knock sensors (like the GM counter 
parts) so advancing the timing would require higher octane.  Personally I'm 
running 91 octane and 13 degrees BTDC - really helps the car pull all the 
way to 5000rpm rather than dropping off at 4500-4750 (according to the 
factory tach).

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 19:17:42 1993
Subject: RE: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6980
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Why not put the filter between the compressor and the tank, so it stays
>cleaner too (he naively asks :)?

Well I'll give you a couple of reasons:

1) I haven't though of it :-)
2) that particular pipe / tube is an origional and is very short - would 
require a fair amount of work.
3) that is the hottest pipe.  I believe you get your best results at cool 
locations - that is why the separate filter (the 2nd one) I have connected 
by rubber hose so that it is less affected by heat.  The second filter is 
much better at catching water than the first.

For those who live in the Maryland area and are interested in custom 
compressor set-ups the place to get supplies is "Jim Air" in Bladensburg 
Maryland.  You also may want to find a place that cuts galvanized pipe to 
custom lengths (and taper threads them).  Plubing store?

Of course some PVC is rated at over 150 psi ( the pressure relief valve 
setting on my tank...)  This is popular for custom air lines running down 
walls etc.

Dirk
 


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 19:23:27 1993
Subject: RE: Small block confusion
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6981
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

About engine torques vs. acceloration.

Acceleration is a function of force applied to the road and the mass of the 
car.  The force applied to the road is limited by traction and is a 
function of the engine torque and all torque multiply factors.  Torque 
converters have the possibility of multipling torque at the expense of rpm. 
 Like wise for rear gears.

Assuming your not limited in traction, with all other things being equal, 
the car with the higher torque output from the engine will win.

Also, under the torque curve is important.  Since only cars with constant 
velocity transmissions (CVT's) stay in the torque peak - you must maximize 
the amount of torque.  Cars with tight gear ratios can use slightly peakier 
motors.  But the V-8 has always had a relatively wide torque curve.  Wide 
enough to use a 3 speed in a truck...

Personally I never gave much credence to the engine specs given by a 
manufacturer.  it may be good for bragging but most engines that are good 
for bragging are slightly overrated.  Exceptions are the super high output 
specialty engines of the late 60's.  Just my opinion...

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 19:44:32 1993
Subject: Re: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6982
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Tom Carver wrote about small block Chevy engines:
 If it has an oil filler tube, but no pvc valve threaded bung, then it
 might be a REALLY old one.


Chevrolet used a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation through
1963.  In 1964, at least in California, they started to use a simple
PCV system which had a metering orifice but no valve.  In 1965
they started to use PCV valves.

You may be able to identify the engine by the block's casting
number; sorry, I don't have a reference handy for this.  Or you
could pull the oil pan and check the stoke by rotating the crank;
327s used a 3.25 stroke while 283s used 3 inches.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 19:49:11 1993
Subject: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6983
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Help! A friend has a small block chevy that he thinks is a 283. I
-> can't seem to pinpoint the id on the pad  (Dave?)
-> It could be an early 60's engine.
-> The last 2 digits are- WI

 Frankly I've had pretty bad luck trying to match numbers, even when
there *are* numbers.  I have a couple of Chevy blocks in the shop
without any numbers at all.

 You have a fair chance of telling which engine it is by looking at the
crank.  Unbolt the flywheel or flexplate (I'm assuming the engine isn't
installed) and look at the crank flange.  If it's round it's a 3 inch
crank, likely a 283.  If there's a notch cut in the flange it's a 3.25
inch stroke, likely a 327.

 That's if it's an early engine.  Tip-offs:  oil filler on intake
instead of valve cover, provision for road draft tube at back of block,
short water pump, no accessory mounting holes in heads.  If it's a '68
or later engine all the cranks are notched, as is the '67 Z-28 302.
             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 19:59:18 1993
Subject: Re: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6984
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


What is the casting number of the block?  Look for the number where the
block mates to the transmision, next to the number 7 bore. This is a raised
set of numbers in the casting, not stamped numbers.

-Kevin

> 
> Help! A friend has a small block chevy that he thinks is a 283.
> I can't seem to pinpoint the id on the pad  (Dave?)
> It could be an early 60's engine.
> The last 2 digits are- WI
> 
> Thanks,  Frank
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
>  
> 
> 

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 23 23:43:54 1993
Subject: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6985
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've been tinkering with my '69 Camaro for a few months to try and improve the
mileage, idle quality, and power.  I still probably have carburetor problems,
but this is what I do know:

If I set the initial timing at 10 or 12 degrees, I get lousy mileage, a poor
idle quality, poor low end throttle response, and yet great power at wide open
throttle.

If I advance the initial timing to 20 degrees, I get better mileage, a super
smoothe idle, good low end throttle response, and lousy wide open throttle
performance.

I know it's probably way too advanced when the revs are up with the high
initial advance, but it's much nicer to drive in the cruising and stop and go
traffic range.  

Should I try to limit my centrifical advance, and leave a high initial
advance?  I'm almost certain that the reason the engine runs lousy with a
lower initial advance is that there's not enough manifold vacuum.  When I
advance it to twenty, the idle vacuum comes up a lot -- as well as the rpms. 
I have to lower the idle speed a lot after advancing it.

I've been driving around at 20 degrees initial advance for a while now, and
everything's great except when I stomp on it, it doesn't give me the power I'm
used to.  

Unless I can limit my total advance somehow, it seems that I have to do
something to make the Q-Jet work right at a lower manifold vacuum level, so I
can put the initial timing back where it ought to be.

My lower manifold vacuum is undoubtedly due to my 268 High Energy camshaft. 
268 doesn't seem like such a big cam, but it's enough to screw up the tuning
of a Rochester Q-Jet I guess.
 
My Corvette's got a 292 cam and it has almost the identical idle problems as
my Camaro.  It's either I overadvance it to make it run smoothly, or I set it
right to go for top end power with a lopy, growly idle.  All in all the
Corvette feels better -- probably due to a higher numerical rear axle ratio.

Any comments would be appreciated.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 07:39:11 1993
Subject: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6986
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> If it's got the oil filler tube coming out of the front of the intake
-> manifold, it's probably either a 283 or a 327.

 Or a '68 350, but they're pretty rare.  Or a 265, but they're easy to
tell because they have no provision for an oil filter.


-> All the old 283s and 327s were factory Chevy orange as far as I
-> know.

 Actually Chevy used a color code to distinguish between 265, 283, and
327 motors, but they changed it almost every year.  Yellow, blue, red,
and black were all used.  I might be able to dig the colors up, but the
only way you could use them would be if you knew exactly what year the
engine was, since one color one year might mean something else another
year.  Nowadays they either paint the engines black to hide the oil
leaks, or let them rust.  It still shocks me to lift the hood of a
brand new zero-mile '94 and see a rusty lump.
                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 07:44:20 1993
Subject: RE: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6987
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Of course some PVC is rated at over 150 psi ( the pressure relief
-> valve setting on my tank...)  This is popular for custom air lines
-> running down walls etc.

 I used 3/4" PVC, rated at 400psi.  I noticed there was some thinwall
stuff out there rated at only 200psi though.
                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 07:51:17 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6988
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>  A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
>  what kind of results can I expect 

>> I was wondering the same thing. I was told that octane in gas simply raises
>> the point at which knock begins, so it doesn't seem that it would help many
>> engines.
>> Any insight is appreciated.

SCCA racer Lloyd Johnson, Tampa Florida, sent this in last year to the
Corvette mailing list. It may offer some insights.
--
Greg Hackney
hackney@moxie.hou.ts.ux

=========================================
 Subject: Experiences with Octane booster

Someone asked about racing gas vs. octane booster so I thought I would
give you my experiences with the subject.

I drove a Corvette with 11.0:1 compression on the street and in SCCA
autocrosses and hill climbs way back when 100+ octane gasoline was
still available from the pump at your neighborhood filling station.
Over the years the quality of the available pump gas degraded and I was
forced to use octane booster. I would add 1 can of 104+ octane booster
to a tank of unleaded premium (18 gal.). This worked pretty good for
street driving but I could detect some audible detonation under heavy
acceleration in competition. I decided it was worth the possible engine
damage to continue to run the mixture since most of the miles I put on the
car were driving to work and I only competed with it 2 or three times a
month. Racing fuel was much more expensive and not redily available.

This didn't cause any problem for about 3 years. Finally the inevitable
happened and I burned a piston during an autocross due to excessive
detonation. It was no big deal, the only work that was required was a new
piston, a rebalance, and removal and installation of the unit from the car.
There was absolutely no damage to the valves, valve seats, or valve guides.
I did decide, however, that the time had come to start using higher octane
fuel and to limit the miles I put on the car through street driving. I used
100 octane aviation gas for a while because it was available at the local
airport at the time and was about 1/2 the price of racing gas. The av-gas
worked satisfactorily and never gave me a problem.

Eventually the law changed and I could no longer purchase av-gas from the
airport and I was forced to further limit the street miles I put on the
car and run racing gas. Some gas companies, Union 76 comes to mind, still
sell 100 octane unleaded. I have used this when I could find it and it
worked fine also. Most of the time I use a mixture of 3/4 unleaded 93 octane
pump gas amd 1/4 114 octane racing gas.

There are some advantages to running the lowest octane gas required to
keep the engine from detonating. First is cost, racing gas costs $4-5
per gallon depending on the octane rating. Pump gas is only $1.25. Secondly,
contrary to what most people believe, higher octane gas does not in itself
give you more horsepower. It allows you to produce more power from an
engine by increasing the compression ratio limit before you reach detonation.
The higher octane fuel actually burns more slowly and produces less energy
to be turned into power than the lower octane fuel. I'll probably hear a
lot of static from people that don't belive this but that's O.K. Use what
you think is best and I'll beat you to the finish line.

----------
Posted by: emory!moxie.hou.tx.us!hackney (Greg Hackney)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 07:56:43 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6989
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>  A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
>  what kind of results can I expect 

>> I was wondering the same thing. I was told that octane in gas simply raises
>> the point at which knock begins, so it doesn't seem that it would help many
>> engines.
>> Any insight is appreciated.

SCCA racer Lloyd Johnson, Tampa Florida, sent this in last year to the
Corvette mailing list. It may offer some insights.
--
Greg Hackney
hackney@moxie.hou.ts.ux

=========================================
 Subject: Experiences with Octane booster

Someone asked about racing gas vs. octane booster so I thought I would
give you my experiences with the subject.

I drove a Corvette with 11.0:1 compression on the street and in SCCA
autocrosses and hill climbs way back when 100+ octane gasoline was
still available from the pump at your neighborhood filling station.
Over the years the quality of the available pump gas degraded and I was
forced to use octane booster. I would add 1 can of 104+ octane booster
to a tank of unleaded premium (18 gal.). This worked pretty good for
street driving but I could detect some audible detonation under heavy
acceleration in competition. I decided it was worth the possible engine
damage to continue to run the mixture since most of the miles I put on the
car were driving to work and I only competed with it 2 or three times a
month. Racing fuel was much more expensive and not redily available.

This didn't cause any problem for about 3 years. Finally the inevitable
happened and I burned a piston during an autocross due to excessive
detonation. It was no big deal, the only work that was required was a new
piston, a rebalance, and removal and installation of the unit from the car.
There was absolutely no damage to the valves, valve seats, or valve guides.
I did decide, however, that the time had come to start using higher octane
fuel and to limit the miles I put on the car through street driving. I used
100 octane aviation gas for a while because it was available at the local
airport at the time and was about 1/2 the price of racing gas. The av-gas
worked satisfactorily and never gave me a problem.

Eventually the law changed and I could no longer purchase av-gas from the
airport and I was forced to further limit the street miles I put on the
car and run racing gas. Some gas companies, Union 76 comes to mind, still
sell 100 octane unleaded. I have used this when I could find it and it
worked fine also. Most of the time I use a mixture of 3/4 unleaded 93 octane
pump gas amd 1/4 114 octane racing gas.

There are some advantages to running the lowest octane gas required to
keep the engine from detonating. First is cost, racing gas costs $4-5
per gallon depending on the octane rating. Pump gas is only $1.25. Secondly,
contrary to what most people believe, higher octane gas does not in itself
give you more horsepower. It allows you to produce more power from an
engine by increasing the compression ratio limit before you reach detonation.
The higher octane fuel actually burns more slowly and produces less energy
to be turned into power than the lower octane fuel. I'll probably hear a
lot of static from people that don't belive this but that's O.K. Use what
you think is best and I'll beat you to the finish line.

----------
Posted by: emory!moxie.hou.tx.us!hackney (Greg Hackney)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 08:02:34 1993
Subject: Re: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6990
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> I've been tinkering with my '69 Camaro for a few months to try and improve the
> mileage, idle quality, and power.  I still probably have carburetor problems,
> but this is what I do know:

> If I set the initial timing at 10 or 12 degrees, I get lousy mileage, a poor
> idle quality, poor low end throttle response, and yet great power at wide open
> throttle.

> If I advance the initial timing to 20 degrees, I get better mileage, a super
> smoothe idle, good low end throttle response, and lousy wide open throttle
> performance.

This is normal when hopping up an engine. What you need to do is to recurve
the centrifugal advance in the ditributor. Best way is to buy a recurve kit
rather than trying to modify the factory weights/springs. 

The custom weights will limit the maximum advance making it possible to run
16-18 dgr advance at idle. You should also install a degreeing tape on the
damper so you can look at the advance at different rpms.

Here is a baseline to begin with (all readings _WITHOUT_ vacuum advance). 
You didn't specify what engine you're running, this is for a my 350 sb.

    
         Stock	  Modified
700        6        18
1000       6        23
1500      12        28
2000      17        33
2500      25        39
3000      30        39
4000      34        39
5000      34        39
  

Note that full advance is in at 2500 rpm. Aim for a maximum of 36-40 dgr.

You also ask if you have to rejet your Q-jet with the new cam. I've heard 
of people who had to do that but I didn't. I swapped my stock cam for a 
Summit 270/280 grind. I was surprised to find excellent idle and as good low 
end torque as with the stock cam. 

However, I run a Holley carb, not Q-jet. I don't know if the Holley may
be more 'forgiving' than a Q-jet?

Have fun!

Markus ('75 Camaro)

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 12:48:11 1993
Subject: drag racing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6991
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi!

I wonder if there exists a group that gives information about drag
racing, especially the main events like Winston Cup?

Kari Katajamaki
Finland


----------
Posted by: emory!cs.joensuu.fi!kkataja (Kari Katajam{ki)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 12:53:32 1993
Subject: Re Re: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6992
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Thanks for the help so far- Here is some more info-
The engine as Dave said it probably would be is black.
The intake was changed but it still has the intake oil filler.
The oil filter is a screw on.
The starter is a bell housing bolt on, like a 50's small block.
The heads are single bump 283 type.
I will get the casting number asap.

Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 12:58:08 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel- any g
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6993
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>Trick Racing Fuel: any good

-> A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
-> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I
-> expect by an octane upgrade?

 =>A station in the next town sells CAM2 racing gas at the pump.  It's
=>interesting to watch people to a doubletake when they see it.

=>Putting it in a '93 would be a *bad* idea.  It can poison your
=>catalytic convertor and oxygen sensor.  You could live with the
=>convertor if you're not in a Smog Nazi state, but all the engine
=>management is keyed to the O2 sensor, and your car would run pretty
=>crummy without it.
=>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)

I think he's referring to the CAM2 Unleaded GT or Super Unleaded GT (or some
such marketing hype).  The stuff is great (if a little expensive), since it is
unleaded and still high octane.  100 ROM for the Unleaded GT and 104 for the
Super stuff.  I use it quite regularly in my GN ... it allows me to run a mild
race chip and 19+ psi boost on the street, but still doesn't kill O2 sensors
(or cattle perverters).

In fact, it seems to help "clean" my O2 sensor after a tank or two of leaded
racing gas has gone thru my car.  I had an O2 sensor last all of last season
... over 75 runs + street driving.  It finally crapped out the last couple
times to the track in October ... that's the best I've ever had an O2 sensor
last when racing the car regularly and I attribute it to running the GT
Unleaded stuff on the street.  The stuff smells like it has alot of Toulene in
it ....

Just my $0.02 ....

Buick GN: "... Groceries delivered ... in 11.76 or less! ..."

Ken Mosher (kmosher@sterling.com)

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 13:05:16 1993
Subject: Re: MAKE MONEY FAST
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6994
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>  All I know is that this is one GREAT reason for removing the Usenet
>gateway from the hotrod list.  This crap really burns my ass...
>
>  Ron "Grrrrr, I Hate Pyramid Scams" Rader

	Rest assured that the post would never have made it through the
gateway had our fearless moderator not been absorbed with acquiring green
stuff to pay for food, shelter, and PE magazine.

	I get too much mail as it is, so I much prefer accessing the list
via USENET.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I still need a racebike.              I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 13:09:28 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6995
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
>My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
>by an octane upgrade?

	Lessee, stock '93 Stang, what would happen:

	o Increased tendency for vapor lock

	o Increased carbonization of the combustion chambers

	o Since racing gas often has TEL in it, you get one roached
		catalytic converter (big $$$) and one roached oxygen sensor,
		so the car will run like shit

	o No more power than you have now

	o Severe lightening of the wallet.

	In short, there's no good reason to do it unless you're going to
modify the car enough that it will actually need it.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna  DoD# 114  KotSTA   Ed Green         1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com            Fan Club #004    1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
kore ha en-ii-shi no iken dewa arimasen.           1973 RD350A
I still need a racebike.              I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 13:14:34 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6996
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
>My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
>by an octane upgrade?
>
>

 In order to make the most of racing fuel, your engine should have some
serious compression. Typically, compression ratios over 11:1 would make use
of that kind of octane. In a pure street motor it would be largely wasted.
The price/performance factor rules out spending that kind of cash for gas.
 Also, to run race fuel, you should have forged pistons. The higher burn
temps produces by high octane fuel will burn cast pistons over time.

					-bmaroldo@admin.nyit.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!sunp.nyit.edu!bmaroldo
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 14:43:11 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel- any g
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6997
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



On Wed, 24 Nov 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> Unleaded stuff on the street.  The stuff smells like it has alot of Toulene in
> it ....

Ken,

  very possible .. Toluene and other n-substituted benzenes .. keep the stuff
  off your hands .. they SAY its carcinogenic .. but then again .. back in
  my Chem days I used to alternate washing my hands with Acetone, Toluene,
  and yes BENZENE!!  They haven't fallen off, YET!

  Now for a little chamber redesign to take advantage of 100+ octane in a
  2.5/2.8l M20 BMW six .. ;)

  Jim


----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 16:40:58 1993
Subject: tuneup/sbc identif.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6998
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Thanks Markus for the advice about the distributor recurve.  From my
tinkering around, your chart for modified advance settings looks like exactly
what my engine needs.  Do you know off hand who makes a recurve kit for an
older points style distributor?  The only ones I see advertised are for the
HEI type distributors.  Thanks again!

         ==============

For the guy trying to identify his small block chevy:  I think most Chevys
had the bolt-on cannister type oil filters with a replaceable element up
until 1967.  However, a lot of people bolted on adapters that allowed you to
use the spin on filters.  My guess is that it's a '68 327 that was originally
equipped with a Powerglide.  Or, someone has installed a spin on adapter on
an older engine.  I'm pretty sure '67 was the last year for the 283 -- unless
maybe they kept using them in trucks.
Good luck,
Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 16:46:30 1993
Subject: Re: timing advance
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 6999
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

|> If I set the initial timing at 10 or 12 degrees, I get lousy mileage, a poor
|> idle quality, poor low end throttle response, and yet great power at wide open
|> throttle.
|> 
|> If I advance the initial timing to 20 degrees, I get better mileage, a super
|> smoothe idle, good low end throttle response, and lousy wide open throttle
|> performance.
|> 
|> I know it's probably way too advanced when the revs are up with the high
|> initial advance, but it's much nicer to drive in the cruising and stop and go
|> traffic range.  
|> 
|> Should I try to limit my centrifical advance, and leave a high initial
|> advance?  I'm almost certain that the reason the engine runs lousy with a
|> lower initial advance is that there's not enough manifold vacuum.  When I
|> advance it to twenty, the idle vacuum comes up a lot -- as well as the rpms. 
|> I have to lower the idle speed a lot after advancing it.
|> 
|> I've been driving around at 20 degrees initial advance for a while now, and
|> everything's great except when I stomp on it, it doesn't give me the power I'm
|> used to.  
|> 
|> Unless I can limit my total advance somehow, it seems that I have to do
|> something to make the Q-Jet work right at a lower manifold vacuum level, so I
|> can put the initial timing back where it ought to be.
|> 
|> My lower manifold vacuum is undoubtedly due to my 268 High Energy camshaft. 
|> 268 doesn't seem like such a big cam, but it's enough to screw up the tuning
|> of a Rochester Q-Jet I guess.
|>  

I have toyed with this on my 77 TA w/ Pont 400.

I am running 20 deg static timing (This is a lot for this engine). The throttle
response is much better (272/282 cam) and it is much better behaved in traffic.

Using a Vericom accelerometer I have noted a reduction in performance compared
to timing set at 12-16 degrees. I would get 0-60 times of ~5.7 and 1/4 mi 
times of 14.2.

With current setup it runs ~5.85 0-60 & 14.34 1/4 mile

I have a Holley 650 vac secondary spreadbore carb, (its jetted pretty lean 
.582 emissions calibration type jets) & 8.5 " power valve.

I seem to still have the same "feel" when I stomp on it but, the Vericom
indicates otherwise.  I prefer the "no-hassle" tune to the best power tune
because I drive it every day. I'd love to have both though.
Manifold vacuum is about 15" in gear (TH350 w/ stock converter) @ idle rpm
of ~700. Launch torque is very good and its easy to smoke the tires if im
not carefull.  The engine starts to pull hard at about 2500 rpm and builds
steadily until the ~5400 rpm shift.

One observation: When the engine is tuned for best power the 1-2 shift is
pretty violent. The rear end breaks loose and gets squirly.  In contrast,
tuning the engine for best driveability produces only a "chirp" on the 1-2
shift. 3.08 axle BTW.

$0.02
EricY

----------
Posted by: (Eric Youngblood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Nov 24 19:42:08 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7000
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>
>-> A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
>-> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I
>-> expect by an octane upgrade?
>
> A station in the next town sells CAM2 racing gas at the pump.  It's
>interesting to watch people to a doubletake when they see it.
>
> Putting it in a '93 would be a *bad* idea.  It can poison your
>catalytic convertor and oxygen sensor.  You could live with the
>convertor if you're not in a Smog Nazi state, but all the engine
>management is keyed to the O2 sensor, and your car would run pretty
>crummy without it.

Isn't it the lead in racing fuel that destroys the converter and/or 
the O2 sensor? This was always my belief. I think the CAM2 racing
fuel that you see at the pump is unleaded, as well as the 100
octane fuel that the original poster talked about. Again, if you
can get more advance without detonating, you will make more power 
(to a point).


----------
Posted by: David Laurer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 25 03:40:55 1993
Subject: Re Re: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7001
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> The starter is a bell housing bolt on, like a 50's small block.

 I'd bet it's a 283.
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 25 03:45:36 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel- any g
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7002
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I think he's referring to the CAM2 Unleaded GT or Super Unleaded GT
-> (or some such marketing hype).  The stuff is great (if a little
-> expensive), since it is


 Faaar out!  I didn't even know they made that stuff.  All I've ever
seen was leaded.
                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 25 03:51:38 1993
Subject: Water injection & LPG
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7003
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu




Hi all

   
 
     Ive got a Landcruiser 4wd 1979 model with a 350 chevy manual running
on LGP/Petrol, when i run on gas it runs hotter because gas is dry and
burns with a higher combustion temp i guess. My question is will it help if  
i was to run water injection with the LGP, would it help it run colder
,would it help the valve seats and guides to survive . the motor is pretty
mild with :

                    3O thou over Flat tops
                    74 cc head chambers
                    2.02 intake 1.60 exaust
                    reasonable port polish and matching.
                    Elderbrock performer RPM manifold
                    HEI elec ignition
                    Pacemaker Headers (tuned length)
                    Holley 600 Vac sec(light sec spring)
                    Impco 425a gas mixer and L series converter
 
Any help and suggestions greatly apreciated.

Justin...

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 25 03:57:46 1993
Subject: I'm back
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7004
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm back!!

My trip to programming hell is over.  The list is back under manual 
control and all is well.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 25 11:16:36 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: an
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7005
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 
 -=> Quoting Hotrod11-23-93  01:50ixie.com to All <=-

 Ho> o> Message-ID: 
 Ho> Newsgroup: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
 Ho> Organization: Dixie Communications Public Access.  The Mouth of the
 Ho> South. 
 Ho> A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
 Ho> My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I
 Ho> expect  by an octane upgrade?
 Ho> Disclaimer:  Don't rely   |    Michael B. Stone
 Ho> on e-mail legal advice.   |    Santa Monica, CA      N6NHT 344

        Mike, what I can tell you is , a guy who works with me races a 88
        5.0. Best time with slicks is low 13's. Basically stock. I can't 
        tell you specifically, but it does run better with the high octane
        unleaded. Whether or not you can really see a difference on the
        street, I doubt it !
        I run a mixture of Turbo Blue Leaded gas in my 69 GTO, and it does
        run much better. 115 octane I believe. It totally eliminates any
        "pinging" under acceleration. But this is a totally different
        animal.

        Wayne in Cleveland

... My good car is a Pontiac !!    
___ Blue Wave/QWK v2.12

----------
Posted by: emory!pcohio.com!wayne.fiala (Wayne Fiala)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Nov 25 11:42:02 1993
Subject: Re: drag racing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7006
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Kari Katajamaki writes:

> I wonder if there exists a group that gives information about drag
> racing, especially the main events like Winston Cup?
> Kari Katajamaki
> Finland

No there isn't. You're best bet is to subscribe to National Hot Rod
Association's "National Dragster" magazine. The overseas price is
$93(US) for 48 issues a year. Their address is:

        National Dragster
        P.O. Box 5555
        Glendora, California 91740-0950
        USA

I run a brand new moderated drag racing mailing list, but it is *NOT* for
spectator and fan information. It is for drivers, crew members, and
wanna be's. If interested: dragnet-request@chiller.compaq.com
--
Greg Hackney

----------
Posted by: emory!moxie.hou.tx.us!hackney (Greg Hackney)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 28 21:39:50 1993
Subject: CFCs and refrigeration
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7007
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 The October 22 issue of Machine Design has a long article on CFCs, the
ozone layer, and the phaseout of CFCs.  The article pretty well matches
what George Goble and John De Armond have been saying - the title of the
main sidebar, "Shooting Down the Ozone Scare" pretty well gives the
orientation of the article.

 Considering Machine Design's typical waffling non-stand on issues, it
looks like they've jumped solidly on the side of reason.
               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 28 21:45:46 1993
Subject: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7008
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

greetings:
  i have some questions about mig welders.  i have a car that is nearly
ready for some welding (rust patches) and so i'm in the market for a
relatively inexpensive mig welder.  the following is what info i have
gathered on several 120v mig welders:
 
  $  brand       amps  #  accessories
$595 lincoln     130a     w/o mask or regulator
$595 hobart      120a     w/o mask or regulator
$584 daytona mig 140a 848 w/ mask & regulator
$400 century     100a     w/ mask, no regulator
$329 daytona mig 110a 883 w/ mask & regulator
$200 century      70a     w/ mask, no way to add regulator
$$$$ htp    
 
  i like the hobart (looks good, feels good, seems solid enough), and
it is listed as a favorite of many local body shops.  have not heard
anything bad about the lincoln or the daytona, but not too many people
i asked owned one (or knew anyone who owned one that had an opinion).
htp looks great (grabbed a copy of  the video), but i just don't have
that kind of $$$ :( .  the daytona is tempting, as it comes with just
about everyting, but their quality is an unknown.
 
  please comment!  as this is not strictly on-charter, please e-mail
your comments to me and i will summarize (if requested) in a week or
two.  email to kking@io.com (or if that fails, kking@uahcs2.uah.edu).

  also, feel free to add to the list of welders, as this is a list of
welders i have local access to that seem to have dealer support.  if
you do suggest a different brand, please include a contact number for 
the manufacturer.

later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!illuminati.io.com!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Nov 28 21:51:11 1993
Subject: Re: sbc identification
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7009
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <#s-2m9d@dixie.com> you write:
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: sbc identification
>Date: Tue, 23 Nov 93 21:03:09 GMT

>Help! A friend has a small block chevy that he thinks is a 283.
>I can't seem to pinpoint the id on the pad  (Dave?)
>It could be an early 60's engine.
>The last 2 digits are- WI

>Thanks,  Frank

>----------
>Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)


If you can get me the casting number usually located on the driver's side 
between the head and the trans I may be able to help. The numbers on the 
passenger front pad are notoriously wrong.

LEE

----------
Posted by: emory!aci1.aci.ns.ca!LEE-L
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 01:37:03 1993
Subject: weldable primer?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7010
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 
greetings:
  to go with my questions on welders, i have a question on weldable
primers.  i have the trunk cut out and most of the rust blasted off
and i'm getting ready to begin the fitting of the new trunk, but i
need to know what to treat the metal with.  a primer of some sort
(obviously), but how far from the weld should the weldable primer be
sprayed?  (ie 3" of weldable primer near welds, or 4" or 5" or ...?)
  also, some of the areas didn't come completely clean (too hard to
get to).  eastwood has several de-rust products, and i was wondering
how they stacked up.  can they be used near welds?  how far away do
they need to be?  (i'm talking about corroless (paint over the rust)
and oxisolv (uses zinc phosphate to cover it up (and dissolve it?)))
  as to oxisolv, i have heard that it is a BAD THING (tm) to breathe
the fumes of zinc that has been welded (or heated to iron welding
temperatures).  presumming that it is true, what type of mask/filter
will stop it from getting to your (or my) lungs? (i'm assumming a 
large fan to blow the fumes away might cause problems with the gas
envelope :)
  so folx, what should i do (no, i can't afford to hire it out :) ?
with as wet as the winters are 'round here, i need to cover up the 
bare metal soon, and am counting on you to help.  thanks in advance.
 
later,
kc
 
ps - the welding will be done with a mig welder of TBD brand.

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 01:42:42 1993
Subject: air/fuel ratio based on CO content?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7011
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 
greetings:
  in the december 93 issue of hot rod mag, there is a 2 page article
(ppg 121,122) on an inexpensive CO meter that can be used to determine
what the air/fuel ratio is.  they mention in an offhand manner that
the meter is about $50 and it is manufactured by gunson's (gas meter,
mk 2).  they say to calibrate it in clean air, then hook it up to the 
tail pipe and compare the % of CO to their chart for your air/fuel
ratio (CO in percent w/ tenths, air fuel ratio listed w/ 2 after-the-
decimal digits (ie 2.5% CO is 13.55 air/fuel)).  is this a reasonable
method of determining air/fuel ratios, and is there any confirmation 
that the number of significant figures they use is reasonable (ie is
the sensor that good, or are they manufacturing significant figures
for their own amusement?) ?
  if it is that cheep and reasonably good/accurate, i may get one,
just to help adjust my carbs (and get it right the first time!).
 
later,
kc

----------
Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 01:48:17 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-42*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7012
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hello all,

I find myself again having to apologize for disappearing for the last
week or so. I was again called out of town before I could make provisions
for publication while I was away. At least it happened after most of
the live racing was completed.

Sorry about that. - Bill
----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, my favorite bartender, and the nice folks at TNN.  PLEASE 
confirm dates and times with your local listings before setting your 
VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

World Of Speed & Beauty (vintage bikes11/27    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (turbochargers)    11/27    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
SpeedWeek                             11/27    12:30-1:00PM     ESPN
Trucks And Tractor Power              11/27    1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               11/27    2:00-2:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              11/27    2:30-3:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      11/27    3:00-3:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, HICKORY (T)                 11/27    3:30-5:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINSTON FINALS, POMONA (T)      11/27    3:30-4:30PM      HTS*
MotorWeek                             11/27    5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
MotorWeek                             11/28    2:00-2:30AM      WGN
Motoworld                             11/28    3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             11/28    6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               11/28    9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              11/28    9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, pt. 1)         11/28    10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              11/28    10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      11/28    11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           11/28   11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Performance Showcase II, Gainesville  11?28    12:00-1:00PM     TNN
KNOXVILLE NATIONALS SHOOTOUT (T)      11/28    2:00-3:30PM      TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, pt. 1)         11/28    3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (turbochargers)    11/28    5:30-6:00PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  11/28    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today w/Steve Evans              11/28    7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup w/Ned Jarrett      11/28    8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay w/Pat Patterson (L)           11/28    8:30-9:00PM      TNN
NHRA, WINSTON FINALS, POMONA (T)      11/28    9:00-10:30PM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (turbochargers)    11/28    10:30-11:00PM    TNN
Road Test Magazine w/Don Garlits      11/28    11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Trucks And Tractor Power              11/28   11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/28   11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
NHRA, WINSTON FINALS, POMONA (T)      11/29    12:00-1:00AM     HTS*
Truckin' USA w/Ed Bruce               11/29    12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (vintage bikes11/29    12:30-1:00AM     TNN
KART RACING, ELKART, IND. (T)         11/29    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 11/29    11:00-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 11/30    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
BUSCH GN, ATLANTA (T)                 11/30    3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Movie: Death Race 2000                11/30    3:35-5:20AM      TBS
NHRA, KEYSTONE NATIONALS (T)          11/30    2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
KART RACING, ELKART, IND. (T)         11/30    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/01    1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/01    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
KART RACING, ELKART, IND. (T)         12/01    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
IHBA DRAG BOATS, CHOWCILLA (T)        12/02    12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/02    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/02    3:30-4:00AM      MTV
IHRA, PRESIDENT'S CUP, BUDD'S CREEK(T)12/02    3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
KART RACING, ELKART, IND. (T)         12/02    5:00-5:30PM      ESPN
MotorWeek (Chevy S-10,Yamaha GTS 1000)12/02    8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 12/03    1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             12/03    6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
TOP FUEL CLASSIC, POMONA (T)          12/03    7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             12/03    8:00-8:30PM      ESPN
Movie: Vanishing Point                12/03    8:00-10:00PM     WGN
NASCAR Awards Banquet (L)             12/03    8:30-11:00PM     ESPN
NASCAR Shop Talk w/Eli Gold           12/03    11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
SPORTSMAN ALL AMERICAN 400,NASHVILLE(T12/04    3:30-4:30AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS----------

BMW VINTAGE, LIME ROCK (T)            12/04    12:00PM          ESPN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/05    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/12    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  12/19    6:00-7:30PM      TNN
SPRINT CAR WORLD SERIES, PHOENIX (L)  01/02    6:00-7:30PM      TNN

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     ASN                Arizona                         Ben Loosli
     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
     PSN                Portland                       Mike Butts
  SportsChannel      San Francisco                     Chuck Fry
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public and commercial TV stations throughout
N. America.

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 01:56:03 1993
Subject: racepages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7013
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey Y'all

        Sorry it took me so long but here's the phone number for the
racepages. It's basicly a large yellow pages of racing supliers, tracks
santioning bodies ect.  It costs around 25$ and the next edition should be
out soon. This years had about 300 pages in it.  It's a nice wire bound
hard paper publication well worth the money. 

        1-800-858-4388

        If you have a buisness I beleive they'll give you a couple
lines for free.  Kinda like Racecar engineering does.

        BTW is anybody going to make it to the PRI convention?

Henry Sommer                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt0035b
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 02:01:06 1993
Subject: Re: Air Compressors? again
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7014
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


My 1-hp 2-cyl 16 yr- old Craftsman has a  Campbell/Hausfeld pump.  
 No Troubles.

tom

----------
Posted by: emory!forrest.larc.nasa.gov!tom (Tom Slate)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 02:07:33 1993
Subject: new AutoNotes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7015
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


=====================================================================
AutoNotes #9, 11/25/93                   copr. 1993, Dave Williams
---------------------------------------------------------------------
  BIX: 'dave2'     CIS: 72571,3542      dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
               The Courts of Chaos BBS, (501)985-0059
=====================================================================

 A friend just dropped a year or so's worth of Motor Trends on me.
I've been flipping through them when I have time.

 MT seems to be goofy over show cars.  One that shows up again and
again is something called a Ford Focus, which they claim could enter
production at any time.  Ri-ight.  This Focus thing is all lopsided,
and looks like something you'd fish out of the water near a radiation
leak.  Just looking at the thing makes me queasy.

 They also like Corvette show cars, including one article featuring ten
renditions of possible Corvettes, by people who claim to actually be
taking courses in automotive design, probably at the Zsa-Zsa Gabor
School of Diesel Mechanics.  Most of them are on 10-series tires, or
possibly rubber-coated 20" wheels.  No door handles, no mirrors, no
bumpers, usually no headlights, and no provision for any of the above,
either convertible with no top or brain-cooker bubble top, "organic"
styling that looks like something you'd flush quickly, "neon" colors
(back in the old days we called it "Da-Glo"), and proportions that
don't allow a normal 6' male to fit without being doubled up like a
pretzel.  And every one of 'em is butt-ugly.

 In order to sell a commercially-manufactured car in the USA, it has to
have headlights between certain minimum and maximum heights off the
ground, and a certain minimum distance between them.  Same with the
taillights, including the Diane Steed Idiot Light.  You must have
marker lights, bumpers rated for proper impact speed and minimum
damage, and they must be between certain heights.  The car must be
equipped with DOT-certified tires, and I can tell you right now nobody
makes a 10-series tire with DOT approvals.  This is all very, very
basic stuff, right out of the CFR, which is less than $20.

 The people making these models and show cars are just pissing away
time and money which could obviously be better spent on reading the
Code of Federal Regulations, Title 49.  Styling studies are one thing,
but if it could never legally roll down the highway, it's not relevant.

 The cretinous editors also maligned the Maserati Biturbo, which is one
of the very few cars I would be willing to take a loan out for.

           ==================================================

 Hyundai's ads for their Elantra (stupid name) are out of focus, chop
off most of the back of the car (reminds me of the "videomercials" so
popular now) and show a cat sitting on the hood of the car.  Hooooo....
my trigger finger gets itchy just looking at it.  Damned neighborhood
vermin climb on our cars, and all of 'em have claw scratches right down
to the bare metal and vermin-prints on the rest.

           ==================================================

 The December 1992 issue of Motor Trend had a Retrospect on the '68
Corvette L-88. The article is full of amazing bullshit.  Did you know
the cowl induction hood shaved a full 7 seconds from the L-88's 0-140
time?  And that the L-88 had 12.5:1 compression?  Oh, and this 430-hp
monster was incredibly fast - 13.56@111.  And it weighed a
"pachydermal" 3420 pounds. That's about a hundred pounds LESS than a
'93, which turns an equivalent ET on unleaded gas and full '93 smog
regalia.

           ==================================================

 Toyota runs an ad inviting you to check the performance of an MR2 on
one of nine selected locations - one of them being Route 66, between
Shamrock and Amarillo, TX.  That's I-40, which overlays most of what
used to be 66, and I've never seen a Route 66 sign there.  I go through
there several times a year.  Most of the signs were removed by the
various local highway departments when 40 was completed, the rest were
stolen as souvenirs.  Now, what is interesting is there IS a Route 66
sign on the way into Washington DC, near Manassas VA.  Weird.

           ==================================================

 Most of you who've read my stuff for a while know I'm not an airbag
believer.  I think the damned things are dangerous, and I've even gone
to far as to refuse to ride in airbag-equipped cars.  Nowadays I'm a
little more laid back since I've been riding along with a friend who
drives a wrecker for the local Chevy dealer.  We've worked wrecks where
the engine was pushed back into the passenger compartment, and had to
wait until the firemen could cut the bodies out of the wreckage.  Not
one deployment.  It appears there's a minor amount of intelligence in
Detroit - the designs seem to be stacked (at least in Chrysler and GM
products) for the airbag NOT to go off.  Because if it does, you WILL
have a wreck.

           ==================================================

 The ABS system I'm most familiar with is in a friend's Corvette, which
I run in the SCCA's Super Stock autocross class from time to time.  The
ABS in the 'vette cycles at, oh, maybe 60Hz.  It buzzes your foot
pretty good when you get into it.  The one in the Nissan 300ZX doesn't
appear to do anything at all - the pedal just gets hard.  The
Mitsubishi Galant VR4 is at the other extreme - it cycles at maybe
10Hz, and you can damned near hear the tires go "yipe-yipe-yipe!"  And
the pedal feels *horrible*, like the wheel bearings just disintegrated
or something.  The Mitsubishi's ruckus seems uncalled-for, while the
ZX's system doesn't give *enough* feedback.  When you're driving at the
limit, you really need to know when the ABS is engaged - the ABS, you
see, can cause the car to turn a little sharper than you intended when
it's working.

           ==================================================

 Ford's Mod 3 V6 will come out in the Mondeo early in '94.  It's a 60
degree motor, not a cut down V8.  The engine was developed with
assistance from Porsche (what happened to Ford's own engine designers,
anyway?) and has aluminum block and heads, iron liners instead of nasty
aluminum cylinder bores, four valves per cylinder with roller
followers, graphite coated pistons (a first as far as I know), chain
driven cams, "cracked" rods, and a sand cast upper intake manifold.
Sounds kinda weird when everyone else is going to plastic.  Hell, why
not a die cast manifold?  Maybe for looks?

           ==================================================

 The old Buick V6 is finally gone for '94, R.I.P.  It was superior in
every way to the Chevy V6, but evidently Buick lost out in the
corporate politics game.  The Buick 3.3 V6 has been "completely
redesigned" with a structural oil pan, cross-bolt mains (looks like
everyone is going to those for some reason), and minor changes like
plastic valve covers and roller rockers.  The engine also uses a weirdo
"built-up" camshaft.  Most cams are castings with the lobes already on
them, they just need to be finished.  The new Buick cam uses individual
lobes pressed onto a mild steel tube, swaged in place by running a
steel ball through the tube.  GM says they're patenting the process.
They're welcome to it.  It's hard to see where they'd save any money,
and I'll take a powerful lot of convincing before I'll believe it's as
strong or reliable as the old one piece cams.  The supercharged
models now have Teflon-coated rotors.  Best as I can tell there's
nothing that will interchange with the old 3.8.

           ==================================================

 The new Mustang is here.  Yawn.  It's basically the same Fox layout
Ford has been building since, what, 1978?  They fiddled with this and
that, restyled the body into the new turd look, and jacked the price
again.  ABS is now an option (option?!), which it should have been
standard years ago anyway.  Same-o same-o, except uglier.  No 351, no
SOHC or DOHC V8, no six speed, nothing.

           ==================================================

 The new Dodge pickups are out, and they're butt-ugly.

           ==================================================

 Mazda's spin-off line Amati appears to have bitten the dust.

           ==================================================

 The Lumina/Trans Sport/Silhouette vans' power sliding side door is
finally out, a year late.  GM said they needed to put even more
interlocks on it.  Gee whiz, maybe the need some interlocks on the
regular doors too?  I mean, what's to stop some fool^H^H^H^H customer
from just up and opening the damned driver's door, anyway?  And those
roof-mounted taillights are *still* illegal in many states, besides
being so high most drivers don't notice them anyway.  The FAA, NASA,
and the military have done a lot of studies on "hot zone perception".
That's why the CFR specificed minimum and maximum taillight heights to
begin with.  Too bad GM and the NHTSA can't read.

 The new vans also have the Gen III heads-up displays.  I got news for
GM.  It sucks.  Of course, I'm the kind of guy who's a fanatic about
having a clean windshield, doesn't have shit dangling from the rear
view mirror, and doesn't put anything on the dashboard that might cause
reflections, because anything other than a clear view out drives me
nuts.

 "But aircraft use HUDs a lot, don't they?" you might ask.  Yep, they
do.  But the average pilot ain't looking out the windshield - not much
to see at 40,000 feet anyway.  You take off, fly, and land by the
instruments, and the basically only reasons the windows are there are
tradition and taxiing.

           ==================================================

 The Corvette ZR-1 is still around for '94.  Amazing.  Maybe the Chevy
dealers can team up with the Cadillac dealers and offer a special
Allante and ZR-1 combo deal?

           ==================================================

 Canada, Finland, Sweden, and a couple other countries have mandatory
headlight laws - you run with your headlights on all the time.  They
claim this reduces traffic wrecks.  I flat don't believe it.  Anyone
who can't see an object the size of a car can't see it with the
headlights on either.  This has been proven over and over with
motorcycles.  People don't "see" because they're too stupid to LOOK.

 You maybe have a feeling for how dumb the average driver is, right?
Just think.  About half of the feebs on the road are even dumber than
that!

=====================================================================
AutoNotes will be published irregularly as the mood hits.  Contains
no cyclamates, backwards-masked messages, FNORDs, or recycled fibers.
=====================================================================
                                                                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 02:16:18 1993
Subject: Re:  Ford C4 -> AOD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7016
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>Yes, you can put a T700 behind a 302, and a US Gear OD behind that, 
>giving you a 5 speed automatic in a Ford.  Email me if you want to 
>spend at least $2500 doing this right.

Not sure what sort of info you have on this, but maybe you have a few
ideas.  I'm not very familiar with what options are open for me, but
I'm looking to put a 4 speed auto into a 65 Galaxie with a 390.

I currently have a 3 speed cruis-o-matic, and a 3:1 rear end.  Both
rear end and the tranny are in need of some work, and I would like to
replace the 3:1 rear with something that will give me better
acceleration, but with the 390, gas mileage is bad enough, and
would like to go to a 4 speed tranny, so I don't lose the top end
speed and gas mileage by just swapping the rear end.  Any ideas?

pc
-- 
      -m---------    Patrick Connor           Pyramid Technology   
    ---mmm-------    (408) 428-8819           3860 North 1st St.
  -----mmmmm-----    pc@pyramid.com -or-      San Jose, CA           
-------mmmmmmm---    uunet!pyramid!pc         95134              

----------
Posted by: emory!pyramid.com!pc (pc)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 02:23:29 1993
Subject: Re: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7017
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:

>greetings:
>  i have some questions about mig welders.  i have a car that is nearly
>ready for some welding (rust patches) and so i'm in the market for a
>relatively inexpensive mig welder.  the following is what info i have
>gathered on several 120v mig welders:
> 
>  $  brand       amps  #  accessories
>$595 lincoln     130a     w/o mask or regulator
>$595 hobart      120a     w/o mask or regulator
>$584 daytona mig 140a 848 w/ mask & regulator
>$400 century     100a     w/ mask, no regulator
>$329 daytona mig 110a 883 w/ mask & regulator
>$200 century      70a     w/ mask, no way to add regulator
>$$$$ htp    

Century, Daytona, S.D.Lee and a half dozen other brands are all actually 
made by the Century company.  Been to the factory, seen 'em slapping
different silk screening on the same units.  These are all "let's
see how cheap we can make 'em" welders.  For instance, the attachment
of the welding lead to the transformer typically uses an ordinary steel
bolt instead of copper or brass.  I used to stock the S.D.Lee brand
in my welding supply store.  This was for the person who had to have
the absolute cheapest possible welder.  Being of the cheap persuasion,
I have an S.D.Lee stack sitting in my shop :-)  Everything except the
MIG welders.  Junk!  I took back every one I ever sold.  The pinch wheels
are soft and won't grip the wire, the power supply is whimpy
and the wand is a joke.

I recommend saving the extra nickels and going with a major name
brand.  Be sure to read the fine print, however.  Lincoln and Miller
have both been known to private label Century welders for their
very low end models.

John

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                   | For a free sample magazine, send
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM)     | a digest-size 52 cent SASE 
Marietta, Ga     "Hotrods'n'computers"   | (Domestic) to PO Box 669728
jgd@dixie.com    "What could be better?" | Marietta, GA 30066
Email to me may be published at my sole discretion.

----------
Posted by: jgd@dixie.com (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 11:27:30 1993
Subject: Re: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7018
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>> that kind of $$$ :( .  the daytona is tempting, as it comes with just
> about everyting, but their quality is an unknown.
I have a Daytona 130A unit. No complaints once I got the wheel tension
sadjusted correctly. I buy tips from them cause I haven't yet been to
a welding supply to see if "TWECO" style tips fit my gun.
A friend has a Lincoln and got the gas conversion kit for it. He likes
it. Both of us are occasional users. (Lincoln can be gotten at places
like Harbor Freight (mail order) for about $430 complete less bottle)
Pace (buyers warehouse) had lincoln recently for $290 (no gas conversion)
Lincoln uses a "TWECO" gun that parts can be had at any welding supply 
house.

----------
Posted by: emory!stdavids.picker.com!derekp (Derek Pietro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 13:05:24 1993
Subject: Re: new AutoNotes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7019
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Yes, Motor Trend is usually quite useless and full of it but the L88 did
have 12.5 to 1 (very few were made and intended for race only), it in
fact made 550 hp (the insurance companies would flip if they knew this-
look at why Ford is changing the rating on the 5.0 die young machine)
and on decent tires, not the skinny hard ones of the day the L88 Vette
runs well into the 11's. If you don't believe this then do some investigating.

----------
Posted by: emory!turing.acs.ryerson.ca!nplatsis (Nicholaos Platsis - EENG)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 13:15:55 1993
Subject: Re:  Ford C4 -> AOD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7020
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

None of the solutions that I am _certain_ of will solve your need for more
gears.  I'd suggest talking to one of the serious RV places near you for 
more info on what is available.  Good Luck.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 13:40:03 1993
Subject: differentials
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7021
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Does anyone have the address for the manufacturer of Torsen
differentials?  It used to be Gleasman, but I don't have their address
either.

 I'm also trying to find a manufacturer or importer of viscous coupling
diffs (Ferguson system) like the AMC Eagle and some other 4wd cars used.
                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 13:45:23 1993
Subject: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7022
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> $400 century     100a     w/ mask, no regulator

 I bought a Century 90/120 a few months ago for about $500.  It came
with regulator and everything but the bottle.  The local welding supply
place had the best price on the argon bottle.  I was aware the Century
isn't a top-line brand, but the price was right, the instructions were
clear, and it seems to work, though a real weldor would probably roll
over laughing at the way I burn parts together.

 The complete welder has a carry handle on top, but even Arnold
Schwarzenegger would need help when the argon bottle is mounted in the
rack.  After figuring what it would cost for metal and wheels, I bought
a child's wagon to carry the welder - real Radio Flyer wagons are hard
to find, but they're the perfect size.  I'm going to buy another to haul
tools and parts when I go to the junkyard.

 I have to drive to the welding place (30 mi round trip) to get wire.
All the home centers and feed stores carry is flux-core.  If I'd wanted
flux core, I could've bought a cheap Century wirefeed for $185.  Bah.
             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 13:50:54 1993
Subject: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7023
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I have an old article by Smokey Yunick where he claims plate-type posis
are usually worn out and nonfunctional by 25,000 miles.  That doesn't
match my experience.  Any comments?
                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 13:55:53 1993
Subject: racepages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7024
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Sorry to blast the list, but will whoever sent me those MIT photocopies
email your snail address to me?
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 14:04:49 1993
Subject: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7025
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

     I researched several models about 4 years ago. I am VERY shy of No-
Name brands. Whatever machine you buy, will eventually need service. You 
probably know where to find a Lincoln, Miller, or Hobart Dealer. The others 
could pretty well be considered throw-aways once they have some miles on 
them, (if they ever get used at all).
     IMPORTANT...Whatever model you decide on, make sure it has infinite 
rheostats for amperage and wire feed settings. The Miller Cricket that I 
looked at, for example, had "Click" settings. You could bet your last 
dollar, you'll want to be right between these clicks 90% of the time. The 
other important consideration is, "Duty Cycle". Usually stated in percent. 
For example, 20% Duty Cycle indicates you can weld for 2 minutes out of 10. 
The machine needs a little time to cool. 2 minutes out of 10 may not seem 
like much. but consider clamping and set-up time.
     Some general information that may help you, regardless of which 
machine you buy;
     For light welding, such as body work. You'll want to use a gas set-
up. Argon will give you the prettiest welds with good penetration and no 
spatter, CO2 will give you more penetration, and strength, but sacrifice a 
little bit on appearance. For heavier metals, say, over .062 thick, you'll 
get better welds by removing the gas set-up, and using a, "Flux-Core" Wire. 
This is good for up to 1/8" thick. Most of the manufacturers claim up to    
5/16 thick. If you're welding that heavy though, this is the wrong type of 
machine.     
     I bought a Lincoln SP-100. WHAT A GREAT MACHINE! I hardly ever 
use my bigger welder any more. I've been using this machine commercially, 
making Ornamental Iron Railings and such for about 4 years. I'm frequently 
working in the .09(3/32) to 1/8 thickness range. The only problem I've ever 
had with this machine was when I first bought it. The little 2 pound spool 
of wire that came with it, didn't feed freely enough, and kept hanging up. 
When I went to the 10 pound spool, I threw away the problem with the little 
spool.
     Only welding problem I've encountered with it was on a very cold 
morning, about 30 degrees. Welding 1/8 inch steel tubing, my first weld 
would just sit on top of the material, no penetration. Once I ground that 
off, it welded just fine. This pattern recurred on each joint. Took me a 
while to figure out it was because the steel was just too cold to start 
with and needed that little bit of pre-heating. The little machine is doing 
all it can for that heavy a weld at warmer temperatures.
     I've also heard good comments on the Hobart, but have never tried one.
Good Luck with your decision, but every time I've tried to save a dollar on 
tools, its cost me in the long run....Don Cain
---------
cain@mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com

----------
Posted by: emory!mailhub.scf.lmsc.lockheed.com!cain
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 14:44:27 1993
Subject: Re:  roller lifter question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7026
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-> 
-> 	Anyone have any first hand experience (good - bad)
-> with Chet Herbert roller lifters? They seem to be anywheres 
-> from $50 to $125 cheaper per set than anyone elses.
-> The application is a small block 406 with a 640 lift cam. 
-> Its a drag car and expected to shift somewhere around 6500.
-> 
-> Thanks...
-> 
-> --------------------------
-> Derek J. Pietro
->  
-> 

Derek,

By roller lifters I assume you mean that they have needle bearings inside
the cam follower.  Is the same true for the rocker arms?  That is, are
there needle bearings inside both the fulcrum, and the roller at the tip?
Maybe the cost is somehow related to the size and number of needles they
use.

Assuming the correct air/fuel ratio, and assuming that both of you can burn
it all, your 406 at 6500 will make more power than someone's 454 at 6000.

The local Chrysler dealer seems to have fixed that oil leak.  They replaced
the oil seals on both camshafts.  Then they spent a day trying to retime
the engine.  The service manager asked whether the car hesitated.  I said
no.  Then he said he wanted to check the timing one more time.  Their first
try was one tooth off.  Seems that the pulley on the intermediate shaft
didn't have any marks.  My factory service manual shows otherwise.  Sounds
as if someone forgot a manufacturing step.

George

----------
Posted by: emory!VFL.Paramax.COM!georgek
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 14:49:05 1993
Subject: Re: weldable primer?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7027
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

kenneth c king writes:
  as to oxisolv, i have heard that it is a BAD THING (tm) to breathe
the fumes of zinc that has been welded (or heated to iron welding
temperatures).  presumming that it is true, what type of mask/filter
will stop it from getting to your (or my) lungs? (i'm assumming a 
large fan to blow the fumes away might cause problems with the gas
envelope :)


Zinc oxide is a poison; you definitely don't want to breathe it.
I suggest trying your local welding supply house for a filter/mask
good for zinc fumes.  There must be at least 30 different kinds of
filter elements, each being optimized for certain specific
contaminants (e.g., solvents, radionuclides, biohazards, etc.).
The welding shop should be able to show you a catalog which shows
the appropriate filter element for each concern.  While you are at
it, you may want to pick up some filter elements that will be useful
for the paint fumes that you will be generating when you get to that
part of the project.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 17:40:42 1993
Subject: Metal Oxide fumes ..
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7028
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


When welding, especially Galvanized, it's a good idea to wear a mask

Now on the mask issue, when you select your filters, try to get a set
that accepts PRE-FILTERS, and get them also ..

A PRE-FILTER is a (on Norton rigs at least) felt element that is retained
outside the main filter canister .. it helps cut down on the larger dust,
etc. that can be drawn into the main filter and clog it ..

It also increases the efficiency of the mask as a whole ..

BTW, remember that Zinc fumes are really VERY FINE solid/gas aerosols ..

And if you ever get "Zinced" seek medical assistance ASAP

Trust me .. you'l know the sysmptoms if you get it !!

Jim Conforti



----------
Posted by: Jim Conforti 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 17:45:40 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7029
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

GatorMail-Q                   RE>posis

> I have an old article by Smokey Yunick where he claims plate-type 
>posis are usually worn out and nonfunctional by 25,000 miles.  That 
>doesn't match my experience.  Any comments?

Seems to depend on the posi from what I have seen.  Lots of guys in our
4WD club run posis which do seem to wear out at fairly low mileages. 
The one in the rear of my F250 was completely gone at 60k and seemed
really weak right from the start.  

The Downey aftermarket unit I have in my Toyota truck had 50k on it
when I got it used and will still spin both tires under most
conditions, unless one wheel is in the air.  I've put another 20k on
it, lots of hard four wheeling.  Downey sells rebuild kits for them but
they claim they haven't sold any. YMMV.

Jim Chott
rzaa80@email.sps.mot.com


----------
Posted by: "Jim Chott" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 17:50:05 1993
Subject: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7030
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Has anyone here bought one of those inexpensive caster/camber guages?
You know, the doohickey you hold up against the wheel rim or hub?

 The camber part is no problem - any reasonably accurate level and
protractor can give you that.  The caster is what baffles me.  According
to the books the big commercial units turn the wheels 20 degrees each
way, taking readings from somewhere, and that tells you the caster.
I could see how you could work that out with trigonometry since the
apparent camber would change due to caster... except for kingpin
inclination.  None of my references have any mention of how to determine
kingpin inclination.  I can look up what it's supposed to be for my car
and use it to backfigure caster, but... duh.

 I thought I'd cruise around to some alignment shops and see how their
equipment works, but everyone around here has converted to the new
drive-through electronic stuff.  "Thrust alignment" also seems to be
in vogue.  No help there.   What happens to all that old alignment
equipment when the shops trade up, anyway?  I found a shop that doesn't
do alignment any more, and the owner was willing to sell me a 1950s
Bean Optalign for $500 with all accessories.  The only thing was, it's
big by huge, and basically requires a pit to be useful.  There's no
real way to fit it in my shop or what's left of my back yard.

 Anyway, does anyone know how you check caster on the cheap guages?
It looks like it might be easy enough to build one if I knew how to
use it.
                                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 17:55:36 1993
Subject: Re:  posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7031
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 I guess if you put the 25000 miles on the unit by going roundy round, 
the differential will be in constant scrub. On the other hand, 25000
miles of Interstate probably wouldn't do anything at all.

 I have a took-apart plate posi in a box and the plates still have a nice
diamond-checked surface. The unit was out of a '66 junkyard car which I 
can only assume to have had much more than 25000 miles; given the fact
that I haven't found any vendor who'll admit to even having any idea of
what differential I'm talking about, I don't think it was rebuilt much
if ever.

 Do newer types use faced clutch plates? If so, maybe the facing is
worn off too soon. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 18:09:50 1993
Subject: Misc stuff
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7032
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm finally back for good from my latest and hopefully last descent
into programming hell.  For those who missed it, I've been off the 
last month automating the powerhouse of a large paper mill.  
The list has been on automatic.  Yes, I do thank all of you who 
DIDN'T comment either to the list or to me about MAKE MONEY FAST!

Anyway, this project had some interesting aspects that I thought 
the rest of you power freaks would enjoy.   This project was
the close approximation of installing state of the art engine 
management system on a Model T.

The power plant contains 5 steam turbines, the oldest of which was
installed in 1918, the newest in 1952.  The largest turbine 
produces 25,000 horsepower (17.5 MWe) from a rotor about 2 feet in
diameter and 8 feet long.  That's power density!  To these generators
were connected state of the art switching and control gear including
Hewlett-packard Unix workstations running Motif as the operator 
interface.  Something neat about toggling a 15,000 volt breaker
with a mouse click :-)  The steam to drive these turbines is made
primarily from burning sawdust and waste chemicals from the paper making
process and is almost free.  

Another item of interest is the compressed air plant, located in the same
building.  The mill uses about 20,000 SCFM of compressed air at 100 psi.
This is produced by 4 compressors.  Each compressor is essentially a
4 stage, multiply intercooled turbocharger driven by a 1250 hp electric
motor.  There is a gearbox that steps the motor speed up to about
20,000 rpm to drive the 4 rotors of the centrifugal compressors.
Each stage is good for about 25 lbs.  The low pressure stage has
a scroll housing about 2.5 feet in diameter.  The housing runs
about 900 degrees!  The final stage is about the same size as a diesel
truck turbocharger.  There is a large air-to-water intercooler
between the 1st and second stages, between the 3rd and 4th and 
after the 4th.  The control system is fairly sophisticated
and includes a vibration monitoring system that shuts the unit down
if any of the rotors start vibrating.  The whole package is about
the size of a pickup truck.  Just what I need for my shop :-)
Just as impressive is the air dryer that dries this air flow to
better than -80 deg F dew point.

This unit kinda illustrates how much power is required to drive 
a turbocharger compressor.

-- 
John De Armond, WD4OQC                   | For a free sample magazine, send
Performance Engineering Magazine(TM)     | a digest-size 52 cent SASE 
Marietta, Ga     "Hotrods'n'computers"   | (Domestic) to PO Box 669728
jgd@dixie.com    "What could be better?" | Marietta, GA 30066
Email to me may be published at my sole discretion.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 18:18:06 1993
Subject: Cheap MIG welder
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7033
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I bought an "Astro" 110Amp Mig welder for about $240.00 a few years ago from
Post Tool (a tools-only chain store).  I bought a cylinder of Argon/CO2 mixed
gas from a welding supply house for about $90.00.

I've gone through about three spools of wire with it, and it seems like a
pretty good little unit.  I have to tinker with the tension on the spool of
wire once in a while, and I have mess with the junky ground clamp once in a
while to get a good ground, but otherwise I like it.  The welder is made in
Italy, and it looks a whole lot like the Daytona's you see in ads.  I found
out that the "Astro 110" and the "130" are the same except that the 130 has a
cooling fan.  It works great on 1/8" and even 3/16" steel.  On really thin
steel it's tricky finding the right settings -- too hot and you blow right
through, too cold and it makes ugly blobs.  Also sometimes on thin metal, the
wire-feed speed is uneven and it screws up your rhythm.  For the price I
can't complain.

I can still get new tips and nozzles for it down at Post Tool, and in the
instructions, there's a an exploded view of the machine with part numbers for
everything and an address where you can get any parts you might need.  The
instructions are in about five different languages, and they're pretty lame.
I think they probably sell them to a dozen different companies.  I'm pretty
sure the Daytona MIG machine is the same thing.

It does have a listed duty cycle of something like 20%, but I've always
ignored it.  I've gone way over the 20% on hot days and had no problems.
I think I'll stick a fan in it to make it last a little longer.

I put in a separate circuit for the welder in my garage, 30amps 110volts, and
have had no problems.  I've gotten by with a 14ga 25 foot extension cord
plugged into a 20 amp outlet.  For my 30 amp circuit I used a 30 amp breaker
and a short length of 12ga Romex going to a 20 amp 110volt outlet.  No
problems with that.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 18:29:14 1993
Subject: Re:  Ford C4 -> AOD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7034
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


There is a section in this month's Hot Rod magazine on engine swaps, which
has a small section on transmission applications.  Apparently there are a
few shops which specialize in making adaptor kits to put GM automatics, even 
the 4 speed ones, behind Ford engines, or vice versa.

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 18:45:25 1993
Subject: toxic gas
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7035
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Besides Zinc Oxide dust, there are a lot of other dusts and gasses that are
by-products of welding, brazing, and silver-soldering.  Also watch out for
anything containing Cadmium, or fluxes containing Zinc Chloride.  The ugly
puke yellow (greenish yellow) primers contain zinc chromate.  Chromium dust
and fine zinc oxide dust is toxic to your lungs, so I wouldn't want to breathe
burned up zinc chromate primer.  I'd definitely wear a dust mask under your
welding helmet.  Most of the bad stuff is in the form of dust.  If you ever
weld cadmium plated steel, you should wear a dust mask.  Most white or grey
primers probably contain zinc oxide as the white pigment.  

A dust mask that's moist from your breath would probably stop 99% of the crap
in the air from getting into your lungs.  They only cost a couple bucks.

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 18:50:23 1993
Subject: Re:  differentials
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7036
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Torsen address you want is mentioned in the Warm Rod discussion of 
Ford 9" rears earlier this summer.  My library stayed on the other
coast.

I think it was a place in Costa Mesa, just a few minutes from here.  

If you cant find the info, I think Currie is about a mile from my house.  They 
have a pile of Ford 9" rear ends that is the size of two railroad cars!  They 
have all the info you need; I could stop in.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dainippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 18:54:41 1993
Subject: filing rings?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7037
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	Can anyone tell me what the purpose of filing new rings after an
overbore is, and why is it not necessary (or is it?) when putting new rings into
a standard bore?
				Joe

----------
Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 19:05:01 1993
Subject: Re: buying mig welder, need help
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7038
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <7hf2+g@dixie.com> Derek Pietro writes:

>A friend has a Lincoln and got the gas conversion kit for it. He likes
>it. Both of us are occasional users. (Lincoln can be gotten at places
>like Harbor Freight (mail order) for about $430 complete less bottle)
>Pace (buyers warehouse) had lincoln recently for $290 (no gas conversion)
>Lincoln uses a "TWECO" gun that parts can be had at any welding supply 
>house.

Is that the 'SP100' model?  How thick steel (or aluminum, if you know)
can it deal with?  I'm looking for an inexpensive MIG welder.
I'd like to be able to go up to 1/4" plate if possible...
I can't imagine needing to weld anything thicker for motorcycle work.



-- 
            Eric Murray                 ericm@microunity.com
In this game, the winner is also the loser, and the judge's decisions are final

----------
Posted by: emory!MicroUnity.com!ericm (Eric Murray)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 19:10:10 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7039
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave Williams writes:
 I have an old article by Smokey Yunick where he claims plate-type posis
are usually worn out and nonfunctional by 25,000 miles.  That doesn't
match my experience.  Any comments?


Well, I put 155000 miles on a new Chevy 12 bolt positraction and
never changed the plates.  It did get cranky once after a dealer worked
on an axle; I suspect that he put non-posi lube in it.  After enough
complaining they finally did something that made it better but it
still had a tendency to be a bit grabby in corners.  But it certainly
didn't wear out.

I have a governor type rear end now which has about 80K miles
on it.  It hasn't worn out the clutch plates but the gear clearances
are something to behold!  I'm going to try to replace it when I can
find a decent rear end assembly at the wrecking yard.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Nov 29 19:39:52 1993
Subject: Mopar Catalog of ID Numbers?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7040
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Does anyone know of a Mopar-specific catalog of ID numbers covering at
least the late 60's and the early 70's?

I have a copy of Cars & Parts Maganize's ``Catalog of American Car ID
Numbers 1960-69'' which is nice, but it (obviously) doesn't cover the
early 70's.  The title page shows that there is a companion volume
covering 70-79, but I don't have my hands on a copy.  If I am going to
buy another book, I'd perfer one that goes into more detail on Mopars.

-- Chris.

----------
Posted by: Christopher Hoover 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:08:17 1993
Subject: Re: weldable primer?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7041
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've been doing a little experimenting with Muratic Acid (HCL) for 
rust removal, and have had reasonable sucess on one of my project
cars. I just "painted" on the rusty sheet metal and waited for it
to dissolve the rust. I didn't bother to dilute the acid, but used 
right from the bottle. It didn't seem to work well at ~35 deg. F.
On one particular piece that had quite a few rust pits, after a few
applications I had some little pits of nice clean metal. 

I flushed the metal with water, then used a baking soda mix to 
neutralize the acid. I would suggest using safety goggles and gloves
during the process, and not spread the stuff on large areas, the fumes
are pretty nasty. You should apply some primer as soon as the metal is
dry to keep it from rusting.

Anyone else ever tried this? It seemed to work well for me, and I haven't
seen any ill effects yet.

-kevin

----------
Posted by: Kevin Fultz 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:17:35 1993
Subject: Re: new AutoNotes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7042
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Yes, Motor Trend is usually quite useless and full of it but the L88
-> did have 12.5 to 1 (very few were made and intended for race only),

 Are you sure?  Damn Chilton's manuals, anyway.


-> and on decent tires, not the skinny hard ones of the day the L88
-> Vette runs well into the 11's. If you don't believe this then do some
-> investigating.

 I have no doubt.  Firestone Wide Oval 70s just aren't in the same
league as modern Goodyear R1s.

 If you want something sick, the old supercharged German Auto Union
racers put out 1300hp on alcohol, with 5.00-16 bias ply tires on swing
axles.  The drivers said you could roast the tires just by tromping on
the throttle - at 125 mph.
           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:23:40 1993
Subject: Re: caster/camber guages
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7043
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>> Anyway, does anyone know how you check caster on the cheap guages?
>>It looks like it might be easy enough to build one if I knew how to
>>se it.

I've got one of these doohickeys that you hold onto the hub flange.  It's
been a while since I used it to check caster, but mainly, the guage itself
is in the shape of a piece of pie, where the outer/back edge is flat and
is what you press against the hub.  The angle of the guage/pie is the
angle that you turn the wheel thru; i.e., you turn the wheel until one
edge of the guage is perpendicular to the centerline of the car, take
a reading, then turn the wheel the other way until the other edge of the
gauge is perpendicular, take another reading, and subtract the readings,
which gives the caster.  Since the whole thing is eyeball, it's not real
accurate, but seems to be close enough.  Also the there are two scales
on the guage by the level, one for camber, and one for caster - the caster
scale is 2 to 3 times the camber scale.  I can get measurements from it
if you like.

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:28:47 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7044
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Nov 29, 19:04, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: Re: posis
> Dave Williams writes:
>  I have an old article by Smokey Yunick where he claims plate-type posis
> are usually worn out and nonfunctional by 25,000 miles.  That doesn't
> match my experience.  Any comments?
>

Well, the traction lock 8.8 in my mustang needs a rebuild _every_
_race_.  Practice + qualifiying + race is less than 200 miles. :-(
Thus, part of my happiness at the Ford 9" rule for AS next year.

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:34:05 1993
Subject: MISC STUFF
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7045
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> 4 stage, multiply intercooled turbocharger driven by a 1250 hp
-> electric motor.  There is a gearbox that steps the motor speed up to

 *That*'s the kind of motor we need to build a dyno!
                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:38:56 1993
Subject: Re:  differentials
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7046
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Thanks, Frank.

-> If you cant find the info, I think Currie is about a mile from my
-> house.  They have a pile of Ford 9" rear ends that is the size of two
-> railroad cars!  They have all the info you need; I could stop in.

 I need to run down my list of vendors and start calling.  Someone
should know someone, etc.

 It's looking like Torsen in the back, viscous in the middle, and open
in the front, subject to financial considerations.  I'd really like to
do away with the center differential altogether and just run viscous to
the front.  A minimum-radius turn would be about 35 feet; for a 180
degree turn the front wheels would only roll a foot or so more than the
back.  The viscous could probably absorb it.  As far as I can tell the
center differential is really needed only for offroad work.  Oddly, some
offroad vehicles don't use one.


 My other problem is trying to fit the CV joints in front without
having the kingpin inclination go to hell in a handbasket.  I don't
want any scrub with 275 series tires; but kingpin inclination will mess
things up in corners.  I can get the inclination down to a couple of
degrees with outboard brakes... if I don't drive the front wheels.  The
CVs are bulky, which means more kingpin inclination or going to inboard
brakes. The thought of what 10" wide gumballs and ABS would do to the
halfshafts and CV joints makes me queasy.
                                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:44:25 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7047
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I have a governor type rear end now which has about 80K miles
-> on it.  It hasn't worn out the clutch plates but the gear clearances

 I give up, Bob.  What's a governor type rear end?
        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 11:49:55 1993
Subject: Re: new AutoNotes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7048
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



>  The December 1992 issue of Motor Trend had a Retrospect on the '68
> Corvette L-88. The article is full of amazing bullshit.  Did you know
> the cowl induction hood shaved a full 7 seconds from the L-88's 0-140
> time?  And that the L-88 had 12.5:1 compression?  Oh, and this 430-hp
> monster was incredibly fast - 13.56@111.  And it weighed a
> "pachydermal" 3420 pounds. That's about a hundred pounds LESS than a
> '93, which turns an equivalent ET on unleaded gas and full '93 smog
> regalia.

	BUZZ!! Wrong! Well, part of it at least. Weight is 3420lbs
	and compression is 12.5:1 and the cowl induction hood may
	have shaved the claimed 7 seconds off 0-140 time (because
	you can't fit a stock L-88 engine under a standard big block
	hood :) ... 
	But then, everything else is wrong. The claimed horsepower
	rating was 435 but it was actually closer to 600 (I've seen
	dyno runs varying from 520hp to 585hp, I don't know what
	the actual output might have been). 13.56@111mph is *very*
	slow for a L-88, a lot too slow. With 60's tires it can
	do ~12.5-13s and ~11.5-12 on slicks, easily.
	I don't have production numbers available but I recall
	~300 cars were made and they're worth $100k+ in any condition.
	(That's almost as rare as my '70 LS-6, 112 cars ever made,
	and it's equally fast in stock trim :)
	13.56s sounds more like LS-6 SS454 Chevelle time to me.

>  Most of you who've read my stuff for a while know I'm not an airbag
> believer.  I think the damned things are dangerous, and I've even gone
> to far as to refuse to ride in airbag-equipped cars.  Nowadays I'm a
> little more laid back since I've been riding along with a friend who
> drives a wrecker for the local Chevy dealer.  We've worked wrecks where
> the engine was pushed back into the passenger compartment, and had to
> wait until the firemen could cut the bodies out of the wreckage.  Not
> one deployment.  It appears there's a minor amount of intelligence in
> Detroit - the designs seem to be stacked (at least in Chrysler and GM
> products) for the airbag NOT to go off.  Because if it does, you WILL
> have a wreck.

	The only thing that I've wondered about airbags is the center
	of the steering wheel. What happens to it? When the airbag
	goes off, does the center piece hit your face first, right
	before the airbag does? ;-)

>  Ford's Mod 3 V6 will come out in the Mondeo early in '94.  It's a 60
> degree motor, not a cut down V8.  The engine was developed with
> assistance from Porsche (what happened to Ford's own engine designers,
> anyway?) and has aluminum block and heads, iron liners instead of nasty
> aluminum cylinder bores, four valves per cylinder with roller
> followers, graphite coated pistons (a first as far as I know), chain
> driven cams, "cracked" rods, and a sand cast upper intake manifold.
> Sounds kinda weird when everyone else is going to plastic.  Hell, why
> not a die cast manifold?  Maybe for looks?

	I don't know if it's just me but the planned Mondeo Cosworth
	might be worth checking out. I've heard only rumors but if
	any of them are true (~270-300hp, AWD, vented discs on all
	corners, a lot stiffer suspension etc.) it'll be a great car.
	It's planned to be released in ~96.

>  Canada, Finland, Sweden, and a couple other countries have mandatory
> headlight laws - you run with your headlights on all the time.  They
> claim this reduces traffic wrecks.  I flat don't believe it.  Anyone
> who can't see an object the size of a car can't see it with the
> headlights on either.  This has been proven over and over with
> motorcycles.  People don't "see" because they're too stupid to LOOK.

	I've calculated that always-on headlights keep all the
	halogen lightbulb manufacturers alive, I've had to change
	a bulb three times since I bought my last car (July 21st '93)
	and during the winter it'll be worse. It's not the $3 per
	bulb but the trouble changing it ;-(
	And besides, it's virtually impossible to pull out from
	highway and try to hide by turning your headlights off (when
	escap^H^H^H^H^H ... er.. never mind :) because you CAN'T.
	(And I haven't mentioned letting your car warm up during
	cold winter mornings without turning the lights on..)
	And, it's illegal to drive during daytime without your lights
	on on a highway. That (among other things) sucks.

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 12:00:40 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7049
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


To the best of my knowlege Smokey was talking about racing applications, as
it is really hard to get him to comment on street applications.  This is 
understandable considering what he does.  If you read his book he states on
several occasions that he is not only referring to racing but circle track
and endurance applications specifically.

  I've never had a plate type posi fail on me either in street use.

Preston Marshall            pmarshall@ACM.org


----------
Posted by: emory!ACM.ORG!PMARSHALL
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 12:08:59 1993
Subject: RE: filing rings?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7050
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>	Can anyone tell me what the purpose of filing new rings after an
>overbore is, and why is it not necessary (or is it?) when putting new rings into
>a standard bore?
>				Joe
>

Filing rings is the recommended proceedure for blueprinting the engine.  
Basically you buy rings that are about .005 to large (for a bore that is .
005 larger than you have) and file them for a "perfect" fit.  Generally, 
knowing what piston you have and what rings you have should indicate what 
ring gap you should have.  With torque plates bolted on - or maybe a 
cylinder head (squaring the ring may be difficult) , and the main caps 
torqued you should be able to square the piston rings and measure the gap.  
Too small a gap means the rings will butt together, too large and you'll 
have excessive blow-by.  Most of the better machine shops will bore the 
engine to match the actual piston size - which can vary quite a bit on some 
manufactures ( one shop said TRW stock replacements are real bad ).  For 
this reason the rings will only be the correct size for one bore - usually 
you should mark the rings with a magic marker to indicate which bore.

The reason I mentioned that piston type was important - the Keith Black 
high silicon piston (Hyperutectic (sp?) ) has a very high top ring - which 
gets hotter and therefor expands more.  I'm pretty sure that along with 
directions on what the bore size should be (skirt clearance) KB would 
indicate ring gaps.

As far as standard bores - well if they didn't take care to get the bore 
right (no torque plates) why bother spending the time or money on getting 
the rings right - I suppose it couldn't hurt though.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 13:35:55 1993
Subject: Re: filing rings?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7051
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article , hotrod@dixie.com writes...
>	Can anyone tell me what the purpose of filing new rings after an
>overbore is, and why is it not necessary (or is it?) when putting new rings into
>a standard bore?
>				Joe
> 
>----------
>Posted by: emory!oliver.rutgers.edu!joskelly (Joseph Kelly)

Before installing new rings on the pistons, the gap between the end of the ring
most be measured with the ring inside the cylinder (the block) If it's too big,
the compression won't be great, and could getsome oil past the rings.  You
either have the wrong rings, or there is too much wear in the cylinders.  If
the ring gap is to small, when everthing heats up there will be no place for
expansion. Therefore, it may need to be filed to meet the specs.  The specs
vary acording to engine and the material the rings are made of.

An engine that has a stock bore usually is worn enough, or is machined big
enough (if new) that the gap is in the mid to upper specs on the gap.  It's
possible they would need to be filed, but I've never done it or heard of anyone
who has.

Hope this helps.

Robert Bott		RBOTT@CC.WEBER.EDU

----------
Posted by: emory!vx9000.weber.edu!rbott (Robert Bott)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 13:45:55 1993
Subject: Re: air/fuel ratio based on CO content?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7052
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <82d2lf-@dixie.com>, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|>  
|> greetings:
|>   in the december 93 issue of hot rod mag, there is a 2 page article
|> (ppg 121,122) on an inexpensive CO meter that can be used to determine
|> what the air/fuel ratio is.  they mention in an offhand manner that
|> the meter is about $50 and it is manufactured by gunson's (gas meter,
|> mk 2).  they say to calibrate it in clean air, then hook it up to the 
|> tail pipe and compare the % of CO to their chart for your air/fuel
|> ratio (CO in percent w/ tenths, air fuel ratio listed w/ 2 after-the-
|> decimal digits (ie 2.5% CO is 13.55 air/fuel)).  is this a reasonable
|> method of determining air/fuel ratios, and is there any confirmation 
|> that the number of significant figures they use is reasonable (ie is
|> the sensor that good, or are they manufacturing significant figures
|> for their own amusement?) ?
|>   if it is that cheep and reasonably good/accurate, i may get one,
|> just to help adjust my carbs (and get it right the first time!).
|>  
|> later,
|> kc
|> 
|> ----------
|> Posted by: emory!IO.COM!kking (kenneth c king)


The gas content of the exhaust can be used determine air/fuel ratio.
The relationship of CO % in the exhaust gas is known to follow a 
predictable curve based on the amount of fuel vs air during combustion.

I have a mk2 that I bought many years ago, I did not note any discrepancies
in the HR article, it seems to function as they described. I use the unit
in tandom with an O2 sensor wired to display O2 content digitally. The two
devices help validate each other and make carb adjustment a breeze.

As far as price goes, the $50 may be in England where its manufactured but
here in the states it runs about $100 - $120. I think I paid $106, and
I feel like Ive gotten my moneys worth (plus its a fun gadget)

I am waiting to come accross a used 2 or 3 gas unit for a reasonable price
as it can help deduce internal engine problems an combustion problems.

$0.02
EricY

----------
Posted by: (Eric Youngblood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 13:54:53 1993
Subject: Re: new AutoNotes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7053
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> 	BUZZ!! Wrong! Well, part of it at least. Weight is 3420lbs
> 	and compression is 12.5:1 and the cowl induction hood may
> 	have shaved the claimed 7 seconds off 0-140 time (because
> 	you can't fit a stock L-88 engine under a standard big block
> 	hood :) ... 
> 	But then, everything else is wrong. The claimed horsepower
> 	rating was 435 but it was actually closer to 600 (I've seen
> 	dyno runs varying from 520hp to 585hp, I don't know what
> 	the actual output might have been). 13.56@111mph is *very*
> 	slow for a L-88, a lot too slow. With 60's tires it can
> 	do ~12.5-13s and ~11.5-12 on slicks, easily.
> 	I don't have production numbers available but I recall
> 	~300 cars were made and they're worth $100k+ in any condition.

Well, according to "The Genuine Corvette Black Book"  20 L-88 were built in 
1967, 80 in 1968, and 116 in 1969.
Interestingly enough in '67 chevy rated the L-88 at 430 HP(68 and 69 are 435 HP)
at a cost of $947.90, and rated the L-71 at 435 HP at a cost of $437.10.  
Obviously your gonna pick the one with more HP and it's CHEAPER!!!
Chevy really wasn't intending the L-88's for grocery getters, and was
discouraging streat use by shipping them with no radios and no heaters.

> 	(That's almost as rare as my '70 LS-6, 112 cars ever made,
> 	and it's equally fast in stock trim :)
> 	13.56s sounds more like LS-6 SS454 Chevelle time to me.

'70 LS-6??? Are you talking about a vette?  The LS-6 didn't come out 
until '71 in vettes?  And my figures show 188 made in '71.

Ed O'





----------
Posted by: emory!marcam.com!edo (Ed Oriordan)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 17:41:16 1993
Subject: Re: posis
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7054
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave Williams writes:
 I give up, Bob.  What's a governor type rear end?

This is an unusual gizmo that GM has used on some truck-type
differentials.  It has the usual clutch plates in the case,
but the force to compress the plates is provided by a governor
assembly which is mounted so that the governor measures the
speed difference between the two axles.  If the difference is
enough then the governor weights move out against their spring
and cam the clutch plates into engagement.

There is also an override for RPM.  When the road speed is above
about 25 MPH then another weight is thrown outward by centrifugal
force and this weight disables the governor.  This override is
necessary so that you can corner at highway speeds without scrubbing
the tires against the pavement.  It also means that if you lose
traction on a 1-2 shift, for example, the right wheel is free
to spin while the left remains at road speed :-(.

I don't think that this kind of limited slip is a good way to go
based on my experience with this unit.  It doesn't have enough
smarts to know the difference between good acceleration from a stop
around a corner and actual wheel spin so it tries to lock the axles
on corners and causes tire chirp and chatter.

You might ask why I have one of these.  The short answer is "I got
screwed".  The shop that installed this used to be good but, unknown
to me, changed ownership just before I had work done there.  The
new owner wasn't ethical and I found out later that they had
installed this governor gizmo instead of the typical reaction
torque (Posi) system.  Yeah, I'm not happy but the business went
bankrupt and there's no more legal recourse.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 17:46:49 1993
Subject: Re: Trick Racing Fuel: any good?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7055
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>A gas station near me sells 100+ octane unleaded for about $4 a gal.
>My 5.0 '93 Stang runs just fine on 87, what kind of results can I expect 
>by an octane upgrade?
>
>
>-- 
>Disclaimer:  Don't rely   |    Michael B. Stone
>on e-mail legal advice.   |    Santa Monica, CA      N6NHT 344
>Don't violate the law.    |    (310) 587-3344 
>Drink your milk.  Zip up. |    (310) 587-0788 fax 
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!netcom.com!mbstone (Michael Stone)


You probably won't get any advantage in using this mean brew, unless you modify
the engine so that it NEEDS the extra octane. Think of it as I believe you 
Southerners say: "If it ain't broke, don't fix it..." May I also refer you to 
just about anything written by David Vizard, as he knows his stuff.(Maybe he's
out there...)

----------
Posted by: emory!cch.coventry.ac.uk!sholling (SIMON TIMOTHY HOLLINGWORTH)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 17:51:43 1993
Subject: Auto Design Software?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7056
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Does anybody know of PC or Mac software for automotive exterior design?
I'd like something which lets me design a body from scratch and/or have
a clip art catalog of car bodies to play with.

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 17:57:19 1993
Subject: Ignition Timing
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7057
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	A few days back, somebody was explaining about setting the
ignition advance curve. In the message it was stated that maximum
advance should be between 36 degrees and 40 degrees. However, it was
also stated that this was WITHOUT vacuum advance.

	What I am looking for is setting the whole advance system. What
should be the total advance at, say, 2500rpms @ 15 inches Hg? In case
anybody is wondering, the engine is the 250 I-6 engine. Damn good
engine. Pulls like a big block :-)

	Any suggestions appreciated...


							Jason

Murphy's Law is recursive.  Washing your car to make it rain doesn't
work.

(jcborkow@remus.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 18:02:00 1993
Subject: Re: weldable primer?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7058
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>I've been doing a little experimenting with Muratic Acid (HCL)

I've done this as well. Got my self a five gallon tub and filled it with the
acid. Submerged the A-arms and other misc. parts, cleaned them up as shiny
as new!! Hosed them off and primered them. No ill effects.
The only mistake I made was putting some small parts into the tub (nuts, bolts)
and forgetting about them. Went to fish them out a week later and found
fragments! Strong acid! As you mentioned wear gloves! and stay away from the fumes!
One other small problem was the fumes rising from the tub caused other metal
objects in the garaged to begin to break down and rust! so use the stuff in
a well ventilated area!

my $.02

-- 
Mark Fugazzotto                        |  mfugazzo@resdgs1.er.usgs.gov
System Administrator                   |
United States Geological Survey        |
Reston, VA 22092                       |  [INSERT SNAZZY TAGLINE HERE]
(703) 648-4558                         |

----------
Posted by: emory!resdgs1.er.usgs.gov!mfugazzo (Mark Fugazzotto)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 19:40:20 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7059
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I am building a 355 Chevy and would like some advice. I have a set of 
Dart II Sportsman heads(64cc), Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, 1-3/4 in 
Hedman headers, and a 650 Holley Double Pumper. I am putting the engine 
in a 80 Z28 and plan to use for street and strip. I would like strong low 
end performance for the street as well as a lot of high end power for the 
track. The compression ratio is around 10 to 1 with those heads. I would 
like some advice on camshaft selection. I am currntly considering a Crane 
Cams Fireball II 302h( .480 lift, 302 dur., 228 dur. @ .050 lift).
 Any advice would be appreciated.

                                FAB

----------
Posted by: USENET News System 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 21:26:34 1993
Subject: Re: new AutoNotes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7060
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> Well, according to "The Genuine Corvette Black Book"  20 L-88 were built in 
> 1967, 80 in 1968, and 116 in 1969.

	Digged that information up myself and found the same figures,
	ie. 'The Complete Book of Corvette' by Richard M. Langworth.


> > 	(That's almost as rare as my '70 LS-6, 112 cars ever made,
> > 	and it's equally fast in stock trim :)
> > 	13.56s sounds more like LS-6 SS454 Chevelle time to me.
> 
> '70 LS-6??? Are you talking about a vette?  The LS-6 didn't come out 
> until '71 in vettes?  And my figures show 188 made in '71.

	Oops, sorry, 1971 (typo..), serial #194371XXXXXXX. Originally
	registered by Peter Hoppa (in Wien, Austria) Jan.18th 1972.
	The car had 6 owners in Austria before a family friend bought
	it and brought it with her to Finland, May 29th 1986, and 
	finally I bought it from her in March '91. (The short history
	of the vehicle :)
	However, the production figure mentioned in Langworth's book
	is 112 cars. I've found 122 elsewhere and some sources report
	188 cars - pretty rare in just about anyone's book ;-)
	The options are just about adequate, pb, leather interior,
	4spd manual, radio delete and 3-point harness (I've heard that
	most cars were equipped with 2-point safety belt in '71, is
	this true?)
	At the moment the car is a far cry from its original form
	(Mildly tuned, ~600hp '91 LS-6 engine, Recaro seats, Guldstrand
	slalom suspension, Brembo brakes etc. - it has had a 496cid
	880hp (dynoed) engine, later tuned up to 1200hp (dynoed) before
	we blew it in dyno and next one will be based on Merlin Superblock).
	I have all the original parts in my garage if I ever want to 
	restore it but it's a *lot* faster now. If the price will ever
	go through the roof I'll restore it but otherwise i'll keep
	building and modifying it the way I like.

-- 
######  Henri Helanto         ###  heku@muncca.fi / hhelanto@vipunen.hut.fi  
#####  Architecture Major    #### "A man is only as big as things that make
####  Net Admin             #####  him mad."  
###  Sports Car Enthusiast ######  I said 'UNIX', not 'EUNUCHS' !

----------
Posted by: Henri Helanto 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 21:31:33 1993
Subject: etching rust
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7061
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I found out that Naval Jelly (that pink stuff that etches rust) has
Phosphoric Acid as a main ingredient.  I had an old rusty cast iron
thermostat housing from an old truck that I stuck in some watered down
Phosphoric Acid in a bucket.  It fizzed for a while, then quit.  I pulled it
out and rinsed it off, and it looked like a brand new casting.  It had a dark
grey color and ALL of the rust was completely gone.  I tried the same trick
on some hard to find rusty steel brake line fittings, and it worked great. 
If there's any grease on the part you have to scrub it off first because the
phosphoric acid doesn't do anything to grease.  

If you ever get Naval Jelly on your hands, wash them off right away.  You
won't feel anything at first, but then a few minutes later it burns like
hell.  It cracks up your skin, and turns it bright red.

As far as I could tell, phosphoric acid etches rust but doesn't go after the
steel much at all.

I found out at work that watered down hydrochloric acid does a nice job of
dissolving that green crusty stuff that forms on and in copper pipes and
brass fittings.  It brightens up the copper.  If you get it on brass, it
turns the brass copper colored because it goes after the zinc in the brass.  
Hydrochloric etches copper, but very slowly.  It brightens it up nicely.

I've used hydrochloric to completely etch away broken taps out of plastic
parts.  It takes about 24 hours.  So hydrochloric definitely does etch steel
(even cobalt steel).

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Nov 30 21:37:22 1993
Subject: Rim and tire sizes...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 7062
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey All;

	Well, the 427 Chevy is in the machine shop getting dipped and
checked out to see what needs to be done to it. But while it's there, I
was thinking about what I need in order to get the rear end of the 58
Chevy (DelRay) setup. I have a 373 posi unit out of some 70's chevelle
(I think). I am going to have this narrowed, so as to run larger tires,
so I can get this engine to hook up. I don't want to go with the PRO
STREET look, but still need to get something wider than an 8" rim under
there. Any ideas on what a good street/strip compromise would be? I need
to buy the rims and tires now, so the shop (Aces Custom Body in
Manteca,Ca) can setup the rearend rails.  
-- 
 -----------------------------------------------------------
| "Theater is Life,                           Gary L. Berry |
|  Film is Art,                             gberry@llnl.gov |
|  Television is Furniture"                                 |
 -----------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: Gary L. Berry