From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 13:54:27 1993
Subject: adjustable vac switch
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5677
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I'd like to make up an adjustable manifold vacuum switch, and I'd like to know
if there is already one on the market.  I have not seen an ajdustable
PassMaster lately.

What I want to do is, as manifold vac drops, first shut off the air 
conditioning compressor, then unlock the torque converter.  I was thinking,
that if there is no suitable switch around, I could use a MAP sensor if 
there is one that has suitable output.  If the output is analog and I use 
a comparator and pot for each signal I might be ok, perhaps running the signal 
to Darlington and an isolated, clampped 12V relay.  If the output is
digital, I could build decoding logic, but might just run output to DAC
and proceed as above.

For the low-tech approach, I would be happy just using two
screw-adjustable pressure switches.  

Anybody got any good, specific, ideas.  Like cheap parts in use for
something else?  Thanks.



Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dianippon Screen Enginerring of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

[Spearco sells an adjustable switch.  Another good one, an industrial type,
is made by Static-O-Ring.  The SOR switch is adjustable for both setpoint
and deadband.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 14:04:55 1993
Subject: RE: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5678
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Dirk Broer writes about fuel injection:
7) closed loop fuel injection - better control over mixtures should allow
	better milage / more power and better control over detonation.  The
	Holley "Pro-Jection" is a relatively cheap route but I've heard bad
	things about the electonics on the internet. 

The Holley Pro-jection is an open loop system.  That's probably why
it doesn't run very well in street applications.

Bob Hale

[Holly actually offers a closed loop kit that includes an oxygen sensor 
and a little black box.  This thing is pretty crude.  It is installed
in the circuit from the throttle position sensor and injects a dithering
signal designed to fool the ECU regarding throttle position.  I looked
at one of these things recently and was thoroughly unimpressed.  I 
anticipate it only working at idle to make the engine pass the sniff test.
JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 14:20:15 1993
Subject: Tachometer question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5679
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	Sorry to post this here, I know it's probably not the correct
	place but the knowledge base seems much greater here than in
	rec.autos...

	I want to install a tachometer on my Jet Ski.  It has a CDI
	ignition system.  I have found a couple of cheap tachometers
	at the local auto parts stores but these are for car ignition
	systems.  My Jet Ski is a 2 cylinder 2 stroke.  Would one of
	these car tachs work on a CDI???


			Chris Demke
			Sun Microsystems

----------
Posted by: emory!sundude.JPL.NASA.GOV!chris (Chris Demke)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 14:23:58 1993
Subject: RE: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5680
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


|> 
|> So this means you can:
|> 
|> 1) retard timing - fiddle with advance curves and adjustable vacumm advance
|> 	- you lose some power / response
|> 2) run on the rich side - rich mixtures burn cooler - but require more advance
|> 	- you lose some power / maybe gain some response
|> 3) run cooler - lower thermostat - fresh air induction 
|> 	**** run a reverse flow cooling system - look at the new Chevy LT1
|> 	10:1 and no problem.  I heard this was an old NASCAR trick but I've
|> 	never seen it done as a retrofit on an earlier block.
|> 4) retard the cam - this lowers combustion pressures esp. at low rpms.
|> 5) run a longer duration cam - crower used to make a cam that would allow 13:1
|> 	on pump gas.  Mixed results on that one.  Maybe you can find a better
|> 	compromise on cams.
|> 

I even have problems with my 9.0:1 comp pont 400. its got a 272/282 int/exh
duration cam.  During most of the year I
keep the timing set about 16 deg BTDC and use a quick mech advance curve (ie...
begins ~600 & max adv by 2400 rpm) and adjust vac adv can to eliminate part
throttle pre-ignition. All this with 93 octane pump gas & 185 def F engine temps.

Now that its summer and nearing 100 deg F outside the engine is running around
200-210 deg F with AC on.  I have backed the timing to 11 deg BTDC and use tight
springs to delay mech advance (max adv @ ~3200 rpm)  This has done the job
but the low end response has suffered a bit. Acceleration is off a couple tenths
too (probably the hot ambient intake air) 

I have read about electronic water injection systems that can help out, but I
have heard that the intake valves can wear faster (warp, wear ???)  Has anyone
had any experience with water injection to control detonation?  Were there 
any valve problems encountered from its use?  Was it effective?


Thanks
$0.02

Ericy

----------
Posted by: (Eric Youngblood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 18:37:36 1993
Subject: 88 Suburban: dual exhaust?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5681
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have an 88 Suburban (assault vehicle) with a 5.7 liter smog motor. 
It will be needing a muffler soon and I was toying with the idea of
putting in a dual cat/muff/exhaust system. Problem is, no one will
do it, citing EPA rules,etc. It is a TBI and I wish to retain the
exhaust mainifolds, due to the air pump set-up and obviously retain
th O2 sensor. Any recommendations? I only do mild towing (2-4 snowmobiles)
otherwise it sits, except for trips. I remember the old day's when I
set up my '71 Camaro with dual exhaust (wow, that was long ago)...

Suggestions?


Thanks

Kevin

BTW: I live in the far west suburbs of Chicago, if it helps

----------
Posted by: emory!cbnewsl.cb.att.com!kstell (kevin.l.stell)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 23:37:14 1993
Subject: Re: Back on line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5682
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The T700 in a Ford has happened, so I hear, because many folks have blown
up those Ford 4 speed autos.  I really have no data, because I have yet to 
blow up car parts -- I need to have one to drive to work.  This may change
sometime in the next year.

OTOH, the GM 4L80(E) is out because of some percieved weakness in the T700,
at least that is how I see it.  Perhaps I am wrong, but in the consumer
high torque, high mass applications ( C30 and Suburban w/towing ) one could
get a big block, but no 4 speed auto until the advent of the 4L80.  This would
indicate ( if it is true ) the strength of a stock T700 ( 4L60(E) ).

The T700 is now 10.  There is a good review of its status in a magazine called
"Transmission Digest";  I saw it on the shelf at Auto-Rite, and read the 
article.  More to come in next month's issue: I'll have to stop back.


Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dianippon Screen Enginerring of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!dsea.dsea.com!rebel!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 23:41:57 1993
Subject: RE: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5683
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article <20t3gg$i9o@crchh327.bnr.ca>, (Eric W Youngblood) writes:
 
|> I have read about electronic water injection systems that can help out, but I
|> have heard that the intake valves can wear faster (warp, wear ???)  Has anyone
|> had any experience with water injection to control detonation?  Were there 
|> any valve problems encountered from its use?  Was it effective?
|> 
|> 
|> Thanks
|> $0.02
|> 
|> Ericy


Oh yeah, I forgot to ask if anyone has tried 50% water 50% Methanol mix 
in the injection system to boost the power output slightly.

Thanks,

Ericy

----------
Posted by: (Eric W Youngblood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 23:46:02 1993
Subject: Re: Re: Back on line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5684
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

You mention that it is out of waranty.  These days Ford has a special
Good neighbor program which they selectively resolved problems for 
customers who come and ask as if the car was still on waranty.
Last spring(92) Ford completely repainted my 88 Ford F150 because of
the pealing paint(really bad).  It had over 80K miles.  I was the registered
second owner and it was a full 4 years since new.  The waranty was long
gone.

In May with 95K miles and 5 years old I asked about the cracked pass side
exhaust manifold on the same truck.  They looked at it and also wanted to
know if I had any other problems.  Thinking quickly I mentioned that 
since I owned it (46K) it has had a weak getting weaker second gear 
synchro in the 5spd(mazda).  They looked at both and agreed at no cost
to me to replace the exhaust manifold and completely rebuild the trans.
They don't advertise the program so you have to go in and ask for an
evaluation in your local Ford service or body shop.  Saved me over $2200
which they invested to resolve these problems. Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 23:51:02 1993
Subject: RE: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5685
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 (Eric Y's engine runs >200F w/ 180F t'stat)

 Sounds to me like more cooling is needed. If the cooling system won't hold
its setpoint and you've got a good t'stat (maybe a high flow one is worth
trying) then there's a problem with dumping the heat. More rows or more
airflow, probably the latter since the A/C seems involved. Maybe a pusher
fan tied to the A/C compressor clutch line would help you out.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  1 23:55:38 1993
Subject: Re: E4OD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5686
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> Date:  Wed, 30 Jun 93 17:43 EDT
> From:  hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
> 
> How do the Ford E4OD overdrive 4-speed autos compare to the 700R4 as far as
>durability, capacity, ratios? I never see them mentioned, but they're 
>behind the 302 on big fords nowadays. Our MkVII has the 225HP 302, E4OD
>and Traction-Loc; now that it's out of warranty I can begin to play.

Are you sure it has an E4OD?  All of my documentation shows that it
arrived in 1992 on light trucks.  The old AOD (4-speed overdrive, lockup
convertor) has been around since....geeze the early 80's I think.  This
tranny has been put behind almost every V8 engine.

>Thing just loafs on the highway; 2000RPM @ 70. Anybody ever break an E4OD?
>Being stuck between a 3:1 rear and 400lb-ft (I wish...) is what you call
>job-related stress. If I got the wife a Vortec for "her" birthday, would I
>be getting a new tranny for mine?

I have the AOD in an '85 Mustang 5.0 HO, and my full size Bronco.  They
act like completely different transmissions.  The Mustang (with 110K miles)
still produces neck snapping shifts that will break the tires loose on
every 1-2 shift and some 2-3 shifts (3.27 rear).  The one in the Bronco
shifts almost as bad as grandma's luxo boat, and I have to do something
about it someday.  I have been very happy with them.  The real heavy use
data point I have is my father's farm and his neighbors in the Midwest.
He and everyone else I know out there have F-250s or F-350s with the
460 ci V8 or the big V8 diesel and the E4ODs (they are all trading in
the diesels for the 460, but that's another story).  They use trucks
as trucks, and regularly haul and tow way beyond specs without any
problems, although they religiously maintain everything.  I have heard
rumors about problems with the E4OD behind the V8 diesel, but have not
talked with anyone that has had problems.  Our town has several F-350s
with the diesel and E4OD that are used for snow plowing in winter and
hauling in summer.  They clock about 40K miles per year, and the town
supervisor said these trucks are the best investment they have made.
Of course, when I ask him about the trucks (he lives across the road
from me), the first thing he comments on are the comfy seats and the
FM radio.....Guess it beats leaning on a shovel all day.

If you talk to TCI, they claim the weakest part of the AOD is the
input shaft.  Since it is a two piece shaft (for lockup), they claim
that by replacing the stock cast iron with their steel shaft the AOD is
good to 450 lb-ft before internal upgrades are needed.  Other companies
like Art Carr and Baumann make all kinds of upgrade parts for the AOD.

If you go with the Vortec, I would certainly invest about $50 for the
Baumann shift kit.  It eliminates the clutch overlap during shifting and
will significantly increase the life of the clutches.

Have fun.


>----------
>Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
> 



	-- Dan



----------
Posted by: Dan Malek 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  2 08:05:54 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5687
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod
Path: cwis!mgolden
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Yet another compression ques.
Message-ID: 
Summary: Yet another compression ques.
Keywords: compression
Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 00:27:00 GMT
Lines: 25

Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.
The ones that are on there have puny little valves, and a large combustion
chamber (but I don't know how large....)  Anyway, if I got a set of.. say..
Corvette aluminum heads.  I think their combustion chamber volume is 58cc.
Will this shoot my compression ratio into the stratosphere?  I want to
get a ratio high enough to get some descent power, but low enough so that
I can just use pump 92 octane gas.  I was thinking around 9.5:1.  Is this
reasonable?  Possible?  What do you all think about getting a set of
junkyard heads?  There is a mail-order place ("Mail Order Autocenter") that
has Corvette aluminum H.O. heads complete with springs and all for $335, and
ported ones for $439.  Would I be better off just getting a decent set
of junkyard heads and getting them ported, or should I just spring for
the new ones?  Any help/suggestions/ideas/thoughts etc.  would be
appreciated.

P.S. Everything else on the engine is stock: Chevy 350, 4bbl Qjet, headers,
stock cam (for now)  Thanks.

--
--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  2 13:35:38 1993
Subject: Re: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5688
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <##hx9+c@dixie.com> Eric Youngblood writes:
>Oh yeah, I forgot to ask if anyone has tried 50% water 50% Methanol mix 
>in the injection system to boost the power output slightly.

	Using methanol is asking for trouble, as it is highly corrosive.  Try
ethanol or isopropanol instead (the latter is the most benign).

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1983 H-D FXWG Wide Glide - Jubilee's Red Lady
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  2 13:41:31 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-25*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5689
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, and my favorite bartender. PLEASE confirm dates and times 
with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/2     10:30AM-12:30PM   ENC
This Week In NASCAR (T)               7/2      2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
World Of Speed & Beauty(Nitrous Finals7/3      9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (heater cores)     7/3      10:30-11:00AM    TNN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (L)              7/3     11:00AM-2:00PM    ESPN
FIREHAWK S/T, SEBRING (T)             7/3      1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Wild About Wheels                     7/3      2:00-2:30PM      DISC
NASCAR Midseason Report               7/3      2:00-2:30PM      ESPN
Truckin' USA                          7/3      2:00-2:30PM      TNN
INDY LIGHTS, DETROIT (T)              7/3      2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today                            7/3      2:30-3:00PM      TNN
SODA OFF-ROAD, ANTIGO (T)             7/3      3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/3      3:00-3:30PM      TNN
IMSA GT, WATKINS GLEN (T)             7/3      3:30-4:30PM      TNN
MotorWeek '93 (Trooper & Rodeo)       7/3      5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
SpeedWeek                             7/3      7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
SCCA TRANS-AM, PORTLAND (T)           7/3      8:00-9:00PM      ESPN
USAC MIDGETS, WINCHESTER (L)          7/3      9:00-11:00PM     ESPN
Movie: Duel                           7/3      9:00-11:00PM     FAM
SpeedWeek                             7/4      2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             7/4      3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (T)              7/4      4:00-6:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, MAGNY-COURS, FRANCE (L)    7/4      7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
Truckin' USA                          7/4      9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/4      9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Lyn St. James)               7/4      10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today                            7/4      10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Cycle World                           7/4      10:30-11:30AM    HTS*
Inside Winston Cup                    7/4      11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/4     11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Winston Cup Weekly                    7/4     11:30AM-12:00PM   HTS*
This Week In NASCAR (T)               7/4      12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
BUSCH GN, MILWAUKEE (L)               7/4      2:00-5:00PM      TNN
IHRA, EMPIRE NATIONALS, LEICESTER (T) 7/4      5:30-6:30PM      ESPN
Shadetree Mechanic (heater cores)     7/4      6:30-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA Today                            7/4      7:00-7:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/4      7:30-8:00PM      TNN
Winners (Lyn St. James)               7/4      8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/4      8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine                    7/4      11:00-11:30PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, MAGNY-COURS, FRANCE (SD)   7/4     11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/4     11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer                           7/4     11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA                          7/5      12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty(Nitrous Finals7/5      12:30-1:00AM     TNN
IHRA, SPORTSMAN NATIONALS, BRISTOL (T)7/5      3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
USAC MIDGETS, WINCHESTER (T)          7/5      3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (F1, France)           7/6      12:00-12:30AM    ESPN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, MONTREAL (T)         7/6      12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
Powerboat Racing                      7/6      12:30-1:00AM     HTS*
Checkered Flag (WC, Daytona)          7/6      1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/6      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
NASCAR Midseason Report               7/6      1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (IndyCar, Portland)    7/6      1:30-2:00PM      ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DAYTONA (T)              7/6      2:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/6      3:00-4:55PM      ENC
Powerboat Racing                      7/6      4:00-5:00PM      HTS*
This Week On Pit Road                 7/6      6:30-7:00PM      HTS*
Speed Racer                           7/7      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Checkered Flag (F1, France)           7/7      4:00-4:30AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (WC, Daytona)          7/7      4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
INDY LIGHTS, DETROIT (T)              7/7      5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
MACAO (MOTORCYCLE) GRAND PRIX (T)     7/7      1:30-2:30PM      ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/8      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Cycle World                           7/8      1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/8      2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                7/8      3:00-3:30PM      HTS*
MotorWeek '93 (Trooper & Rodeo)       7/8      8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Prime Time Motorsports                7/8      10:30-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR (L)               7/8     11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
AMA SUPERCROSS, LAS VEGAS (T)         7/9      12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/9      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             7/9      1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, MAGNY-COURS, FRANCE (T)    7/9      3:30-5:30AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS---------- 

S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/10     8:00-11:00PM     ESPN
FORMULA 1, SILVERSTONE, ENGLAND (L)   7/11     8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, NEW HAMPSHIRE (L)        7/11     1:00-5:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                7/11     1:30-3:30PM    ABC,TSN
IMSA GTP, ROAD AMERICA (L)            7/11     4:30-6:30PM      ESPN
F ATLANTIC, HALIFAX (SD)              7/11     5:30PM           TSN
INDYCAR, CLEV. OR F1, ENGLAND ?(SD)   7/11    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
F ATLANTIC, TORONTO (?)               7/17     5:00-6:30PM      TSN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/17     8:00-11:00PM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               7/18     12:00PM          TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L) ?                7/18     1:30-3:30PM      CBC
INDYCAR, TORONTO (SD) ?               7/18     4:00-6:00PM      ABC
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               7/24     TBA              TBA
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/24     8:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (L)    7/25     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            7/25     12:15PM          CBS
PIKES PEAK (T)                        7/25     TBA              ESPN
IMSA, LAGUNA SECA (?)                 7/25     TBA              TBA
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (SD)   7/25    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
S.N.THUNDER (L)                       7/31     8:00PM           ESPN
SCCA TRANS-AM, SEARS POINT (T)        8/1      12:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 8/1      2:00-5:00PM      ABC
ASA, HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY,TOPEKA (L)8/1      2:00-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (SD)                8/1     11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
IMSA GTP, PORTLAND (T)                8/2      12:00AM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 8/2      2:30AM           TSN
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (T)            8/7      8:00-10:00PM     ESPN
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       8/7      10:00PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         8/8      1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   8/8      3:30-5:30PM   ESPN,TSN
F ATLANTIC, NEW HAMPSHIRE (T)         8/9      7:30PM           TSN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (L)                8/14     1:00PM           ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        8/14     8:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  8/14    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      8/15     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             8/15     12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA NATIONALS, SONOMA (T)            8/15     3:30PM           ESPN
F ATLANTIC, TROIS RIVIERES (L)        8/15     5:00PM           TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     8/15    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
BUSCH GN, NEW HAMPSHIRE (?)           8/22     TBA              TBA
NHRA NATIONALS, SEATTLE (T)           8/22     1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (L)             8/22     2:00-4:30PM   ESPN,TSN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (SD)            8/22    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
SCCA TRANS-AM, LIME ROCK (T)          8/28     1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (T)                 8/28     4:30PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              8/28     7:30PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, SPA, BELGIUM (L)           8/29     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
NHRA NATIONALS, BRAINERD (T)          8/29     1:00PM           ESPN
ASA, I-70 SPEEDWAY, ODESSA, MO (L)    8/29     2:00-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (L)                8/29     4:00-6:00PM    ESPN,CBC
FORMULA 1, SPA, BELGIUM (SD)          8/29    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
F ATLANTIC, VANCOUVER (T)             8/30     5:30PM           TSN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (T)                8/30     9:00-11:00PM     ESPN
IHRA NATIONALS, SCRIBNER (T)          8/31     12:30AM          ESPN
BUSCH GN, DARLINGTON (SD)             9/4      4:00PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, DARLINGTON (L)           9/5      1:00PM           ESPN
IHRA NATIONALS, NORWALK (T)           9/5      5:00PM           ESPN
IMSA, SAN DIEGO (?)                   9/5      (Event canceled)

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out SRC. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for 
info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek '93" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public TV stations around the US. If interested, 
please check the listings for your local public TV
station(s).  [Also please remember to send them a couple $'s if you
like the show. Those folks will always appreciate the help.]

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  2 14:27:04 1993
Subject: RE: 350 Chevy head recommendation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5690
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
>out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
>ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.
>The ones that are on there have puny little valves, and a large combustion
>chamber (but I don't know how large....)  Anyway, if I got a set of.. say..
>Corvette aluminum heads.  I think their combustion chamber volume is 58cc.
>Will this shoot my compression ratio into the stratosphere?  I want to

Definitely - late model corvettes (not LT-1) use dished pistons.

With standard TRW style flat top pistons expect 9.8-10.0 :1 with 64cc heads 
(early high compression heads).  8.5:1 seems to equate to 76cc heads?  You 
want about 70cc heads.  I believe Dart II's are 72cc and a complete set can be 
had for about $1000 ready to run.  This includes angle plugs, screw in studs, 
guide plates, hp springs, hardened seats, SS valves etc....  Good basic hp 
cyclinder head.  With the right cam you could get away with 89 octane gas.


>get a ratio high enough to get some descent power, but low enough so that
>I can just use pump 92 octane gas.  I was thinking around 9.5:1.  Is this
>reasonable?  Possible?  What do you all think about getting a set of
>junkyard heads?  There is a mail-order place ("Mail Order Autocenter") that

For everything mentioned about the Dart heads (including bowl porting) It cost 
me $1100 to finish off a set of camel hump heads.  At the time Dart heads were 
new and a bare set was close to $750.  Today I'd spend myy money on the Darts.

>has Corvette aluminum H.O. heads complete with springs and all for $335, and
>ported ones for $439.  Would I be better off just getting a decent set
>of junkyard heads and getting them ported, or should I just spring for
>the new ones?  Any help/suggestions/ideas/thoughts etc.  would be
>appreciated.

For Dart heads I would check the work done my Edlbrock or one of those.  I 
believe they sell the Dart heads under the name "Fireball heads" or something 
like that.  For small block chevies these heads are bargain performance.  

There are only two potential problems:
1) I heard some complaints about casting quality - this is 2nd or 3rd hand 
info .... buyer(thats you) beware.

2) The intake runners are 220cc - If I remember correctly - pass car small 
bblock heads are normally in the 160-180 range.  So these heads are more 
towards up rpm range ( 2.02 / 1.60 of course).


>P.S. Everything else on the engine is stock: Chevy 350, 4bbl Qjet, headers,
>stock cam (for now)  Thanks.

Pure performance... the Darts will run circles around the corvette heads.

Pure economy... just have your heads milled down for higher compression YMMV


Good Luck 
Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  2 16:27:16 1993
Subject: RE: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5691
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|>  (Eric Y's engine runs >200F w/ 180F t'stat)
|> 
|>  Sounds to me like more cooling is needed. If the cooling system won't hold
|> its setpoint and you've got a good t'stat (maybe a high flow one is worth
|> trying) then there's a problem with dumping the heat. More rows or more
|> airflow, probably the latter since the A/C seems involved. Maybe a pusher
|> fan tied to the A/C compressor clutch line would help you out.
|> 
|> ----------
|> Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)


This puppy has always run warm in the summer. Im sure the siamesed bores
are partly responsible. As far as heat dumping goes its set up with a
standard waterpump, standard size pulley, viscous clutch fan with shroud.
All grill openings are unobstructed and the OEM wind dam is in place.
(2nd generation Trans Am)

I put a new radiator (4 core) in two years ago when the engine was rebuilt
17k miles ago. I also installed a trans cooler and a electric pusher fan to
help keep good air flow in traffic. 

[You didn't let 'em talk you into buying an high fin count radiator, did you?
I let a radiator shop sucker me into that one with my Z.  Went from (foggy
memory alert) 16 fins per inch to 24 fins per inch at the same time 
I added another row of tubes.  Car wouldn't cool worth a damn.  I did some
measurements with a differential pressure gauge and discovered that the
radiator had a hell of an air pressure drop across it, a LOT more than
stock.  I had another one made with the right number of fins but with the
extra row of tubes and it worked fine.  DP was pretty close to stock.  JGD]

I can sit idling at stoplights all day in 100 F w/ AC on full blast with no
problem.  But, if I get cruising at about 3000 rpm for an extended period it
will peek over the 200F mark.  Simply dropping the rpms to about 2500 will 
allow the temp to drop below 200F again. Of course, w/o the AC in the picture
it'll run 180-190F range.

The pre-ignition starts about >190 when the ignition is tuned for max
performance.  So as the weather gets hotter I detune the ignition.

[Does the temperature go down when you retard the timing?  If so, that 
probably indicates too much vacuum advance.  The engine is probably suffering
inaudible detonation and that is enough to overheat it.  

If it's not timing, it may be pump cavitation.  You might try installing
a restrictor in the upper radiator hose.  This increases the head pressure
on the pump and will tend to supress cavitation.  JGD]

It only loses a couple tenths in the 1/4 mile, and low end throttle is a
bit off.

I was just looking for a way to avoid seasonal tuning.

$0.02
EricY

----------
Posted by: (Eric W Youngblood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  3 09:24:07 1993
Subject: 88 Suburban: dual exhaust?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5692
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Subject: 88 Suburban: dual exhaust?

>putting in a dual cat/muff/exhaust system. Problem is, no one will
>do it, citing EPA rules,etc. It is a TBI and I wish to retain the
>exhaust mainifolds, due to the air pump set-up and obviously retain
>th O2 sensor. Any recommendations? I only do mild towing (2-4 snowmobiles)

  Kevin,
  I, too am facing the same situation.
   But on a '77 cutlass.
  The key to keeping your existing manifolds and etc. is whether the
  exhaust manifolds dump into separate tubes rather than the crossover
  dumping into the other bank's manifold.  My problem is as above.
   Routing of the second set of tubes/muffler can also be difficult,
  probably not on your Suburban tho'.  Single cats with dual in/out can
  be had for a little over $120.
   The most difficult part, IMHO, is making the tubes route at the engine
  between the manifolds and cat.  Remember also that once you alter the
  OEM setup, the custom part of expensive vehicle ownership begins.

  G'day
-- 
  -kyle
  

----------
Posted by: emory!gatech!daisy.wichitaks.ncr.com!kehler (Kyle Ehler)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  3 09:29:33 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5693
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Path: cwis!mgolden
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: 350 Chevy head recommendation
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
References: 
Date: Fri, 2 Jul 1993 22:47:11 GMT
Lines: 23

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:


>>Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
>>out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
>>ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.

>want about 70cc heads.  I believe Dart II's are 72cc and a complete set can be 
>had for about $1000 ready to run.  This includes angle plugs, screw in studs, 
>guide plates, hp springs, hardened seats, SS valves etc....  Good basic hp 
>cyclinder head.  With the right cam you could get away with 89 octane gas.

Hmm.. Sounds like what I need.  Except.. is there anything cheaper?  I know
that this is probably about the cheapest that you could get good new heads
for, but is there anything that I could pull the heads off of from a
junkyard to get dirt-cheap performance?  Just curious.  I'm a poor
student.  Thanks for your help.

--
.--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  3 09:35:44 1993
Subject: Re: street comp. ratios
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5694
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
>  (Eric Y's engine runs >200F w/ 180F t'stat)
> 
>  Sounds to me like more cooling is needed. If the cooling system won't hold
> its set point and you've got a good t'stat (maybe a high flow one is worth
> trying) then there's a problem with dumping the heat. More rows or more
> airflow, probably the latter since the A/C seems involved. Maybe a pusher
> fan tied to the A/C compressor clutch line would help you out.
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
>  
> 
> 
> 
Several good ideas already mentioned, but I have had good luck in a
number of cars using one or both of the following ideas.  This assumes
that normal cooling system things like fan belt tension, slippage on
chrome pulleys and radiators that need to be rodded out have been 
addressed.

You can adjust the engagement point of your fan clutch.  You can also use
a "extra heavy duty" fan clutch and/or a different fan blade.  The
highest strength units are found in diesels and  1 ton 7.4L P/U trucks.  
You can find out if changing the set point of the fan clutch will help 
the problem.  Reach around front of the fan clutch (not always easy to
do) and un-hook the spiral spring from it's anchor.  Putting the spring
end on one side of the anchor will fully engage the fan for all temps,
and the other side will totally lock it out.  Try it each way, and run
the engine above 2000 rpm's for at least 2 minutes.  The change doesn't
always occur instantly.  Leave it in the position that makes the most
noise/airflow.  If you can't make it really roar, buy a new, good
quality, THERMOSTATIC fan clutch.  The non-thermostatic ones are as bad
as flex fans.

Do a test drive creating all of the problem conditions and you will hear
constant roaring from the fan as well as finding the maximum cooling
limits of your current engine/cooling system combination.  If this solves
the problem, set the fan clutch to be more aggressive.  If not, AND you
heard LOUD fan noises at 50+ MPH, your radiator, airflow or coolant flow
is a problem.  

Airflow can be changed by increasing the action of the clutch or going 
to a steeper pitch fan and/or one with more blades.  GM uses 5 and 7 
blade asymmetric fans that DO NOT FLEX.  ANY flex fan is the wrong 
solution for real cooling above an idle.  To learn how to set the fan
clutch spring, find a junk one or remove yours.  Heat the spring 
briefly with a lighter keeping the flame moving.  Watch the direction
that the center shaft turns.  This is what happens when the air temp goes
up and the spring issues an engage order to the clutch.  Let it cool, and
un-hook the spring.  Rotate the spring/shaft to the end of travel.  You
will want to move the loose spring end by 1/8 to 1/4 inch for each
adjustment.  If you cause the shaft to be more in the same direction as
it went when heated, you will make the fan begin to lock up at lower
temperatures.  The other way will make it more lazy, and allow higher
water temps before the fan begins to help.

I have done this for years to help out lazy and worn fan clutch units 
that caused poor A/C performance, overheating, run on at shutdown, ping
when related to coolant temperature, and so on.  It is important that 
the spring be clean.  This makes for quick reactions as the air temp 
changes.  Brake clean is good for a quick spray off and grime remover.  
With practice you can make the adjustment installed, and need no tools.  
This allows you to save $ and correct for minor problems that even new 
units have with their set points.

Try it, it works.

----------
Posted by: emory!posms.aus.tx.us!rick (Rick Kirchhof)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  3 13:36:04 1993
Subject: Re: 350 Chevy head recommendation
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5695
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article n@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>
>>Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
>>out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
>>ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.
>>The ones that are on there have puny little valves, and a large combustion
>>chamber (but I don't know how large....)  Anyway, if I got a set of.. say..
>>Corvette aluminum heads.  I think their combustion chamber volume is 58cc.
>>Will this shoot my compression ratio into the stratosphere?  I want to

You most probably have 76cc smog heads. They're not so bad actually. It's 
certainly possible to port them into some descent flow and power.

>>get a ratio high enough to get some descent power, but low enough so that
>>I can just use pump 92 octane gas.  I was thinking around 9.5:1.  Is this
>>reasonable?  Possible?  What do you all think about getting a set of
>>junkyard heads?  There is a mail-order place ("Mail Order Autocenter") that

You will get 9,5:1 with the 69cc early low compression heads found on many
chevies in the late 60's and early 70's.

>For everything mentioned about the Dart heads (including bowl porting) It cost 
>me $1100 to finish off a set of camel hump heads.  At the time Dart heads were 
>new and a bare set was close to $750.  Today I'd spend myy money on the Darts.
>
>>has Corvette aluminum H.O. heads complete with springs and all for $335, and
>>ported ones for $439.  Would I be better off just getting a decent set
>>of junkyard heads and getting them ported, or should I just spring for
>>the new ones?  Any help/suggestions/ideas/thoughts etc.  would be
>>appreciated.
>
>For Dart heads I would check the work done my Edlbrock or one of those.  I 
>believe they sell the Dart heads under the name "Fireball heads" or something 
>like that.  For small block chevies these heads are bargain performance.  

>>P.S. Everything else on the engine is stock: Chevy 350, 4bbl Qjet, headers,
>>stock cam (for now)  Thanks.
>
>Pure performance... the Darts will run circles around the corvette heads.
>
>Pure economy... just have your heads milled down for higher compression YMMV
>

I would not recommend milling heads down. You could get into serious trouble
trying to get the milled heads to mate with the intake manifold. 

Here's what I would do:

1...Rebuild the stock heads, have them ported and portmatched to a new manifold,
    like a edelbrock performer. Then install TRW replacement pistons to get 
    9.5:1 C/R. With the right cam and the other engine components you mentioned 
    you should look at about 300bhp.

2...Buy junkyard 69cc heads. Rebuild and port. Run stock pistons, edelbrock manifold.
    This would also give you 9.5:1 C/R and slightly more power (perhaps 320bhp or
    something).

3...Buy aftermarket heads like Edelbrock, world products torquer, Dart, etc. 
    These will allow a more radical cam and more C/R without detonation. You
    could look at about 400bhp. 

Ofcourse all horsepower figures are really approximate. I just wrote them so
you could get an idea about the *difference* in power between these different
mods.     

>
>Good Luck 
>Dirk
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)


I wish you good luck to
/Markus   '75 Camaro. 

BTW, I had 76cc smog heads and replaced them with 69cc rebuilt stock units.
Gave me 9.5:1 and a good running engine.

----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  3 20:51:34 1993
Subject: Dart II heads - alternatives
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5696
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



>>>Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
>>>out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
>>>ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.

>>want about 70cc heads.  I believe Dart II's are 72cc and a complete set can 
>be 
>>had for about $1000 ready to run.  This includes angle plugs, screw in 
>studs, 
>>guide plates, hp springs, hardened seats, SS valves etc....  Good basic hp 
>>cyclinder head.  With the right cam you could get away with 89 octane gas.
>
>Hmm.. Sounds like what I need.  Except.. is there anything cheaper?  I know
>that this is probably about the cheapest that you could get good new heads
>for, but is there anything that I could pull the heads off of from a
>junkyard to get dirt-cheap performance?  Just curious.  I'm a poor
>student.  Thanks for your help.
>
In that case go get the local want ads and get a set of used early '70 heads.  
Sorry I don't know the exact numbers.  Anyway - use them in stock 
configuration - just install the good valve springs.  A good running set of 
heads should be about $200.

BTW DartII's can be had for around $750 from Summit.. I think (or am I 
dreaming?)

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul  5 19:13:23 1993
Subject: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5697
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm about to buy a cooler for my FMX in my 70' Mustang and was wondering 
what size I should go with or any things I should include or do when I put
this on.  Any favorite brands?   Thanks.
Tom McClendon
gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 03:11:30 1993
Subject: Re: Dart II heads - alternatives
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5698
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
> 
> 
> >>>Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
> >>>out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
> >>>ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.
> 
> >>want about 70cc heads.  I believe Dart II's are 72cc and a complete set can
> >be 
> >>had for about $1000 ready to run.  This includes angle plugs, screw in 
> >studs, 
> >>guide plates, hp springs, hardened seats, SS valves etc....  Good basic hp 
> >>cyclinder head.  With the right cam you could get away with 89 octane gas.
> >
> >Hmm.. Sounds like what I need.  Except.. is there anything cheaper?  I know
> >that this is probably about the cheapest that you could get good new heads
> >for, but is there anything that I could pull the heads off of from a
> >junkyard to get dirt-cheap performance?  Just curious.  I'm a poor
> >student.  Thanks for your help.
> >
> In that case go get the local want ads and get a set of used early '70 heads. 
> Sorry I don't know the exact numbers.  Anyway - use them in stock 
> configuration - just install the good valve springs.  A good running set of 
> heads should be about $200.
> 
> BTW DartII's can be had for around $750 from Summit.. I think (or am I 
> dreaming?)
> 
> Dirk

	Well, Summit has their own DartII modified heads for $1000.  Bill Mitchell
catalog (or direct from World Products) you can get Darts for about 750.

	Don't forget, if you do go to a junkyard, have those heads checked for cracks. 
About 50% of all used heads are cracked (believe it or not!)  There are many
different heads out there, with tons of confusing numbers on them.  If you look
into some back issues (I don't have the issue on me now), you can find a certain
HotRod article telling you ALL about the different heads.  It tells you how to
avoid the light castings, and how to pick the right cc chamber.  Take a look at
that for starters.
					Scott

----------
Posted by: emory!iastate.edu!munson1
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 09:16:22 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5699
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> I'm about to buy a cooler for my FMX in my 70' Mustang and was wondering 
> what size I should go with or any things I should include or do when I put
> this on.  Any favorite brands?   Thanks.
> Tom McClendon
> gt7038d@prism.gatech.edu
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!prism.gatech.edu!gt7038d (MCCLENDON,WILLIAM THOMAS)
>  
> 
> 
> 
Having been in the RV industry, Hayden is a name seen often.  I believe
that they have a patent on some aspect of the transmission cooler they
make.  You should consult the application guide for several manufacturers
and compare your total combined vehicle weight with the charts they
offer to see how big (physically and cooling wise) they say you should have.

This brings up an interesting question.  In Hayden's installation guide,
if memory serves, you should insert the cooler in the return line from
the radiator.  I have always done just the opposite.  I know for max temp
reduction that you need to cool it in the radiator and then air cool it
just before sending the transmission fluid back to the tranny.  My
applications don't push the combination to it's ultimate limits and are
monitored by a transmission pan temp gauge.  My thinking is that the time
spent towing is a small fraction of total operation and in the winter it
is difficult to avoid over cooling the fluid.  By blowing off all the heat
the cooler can waste right out of the transmission, I rewarm the trans
fluid in the radiator and protect the system during all seasons, loaded
or empty.  Remember, the radiator both helps in transmission warm up and
cool off, and that ATF is similar to 30 weight oil.  It will create more
friction losses and accelerate wear if allowed to remain cold all the
time.

Any comments?

----------
Posted by: emory!posms.aus.tx.us!rick (Rick Kirchhof)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 14:43:07 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5700
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

                          SUBJECT:  RE>>Tranny Cooler
[...  you should insert the cooler in the return line from the radiator.  I
have always done just the opposite.  I know for max temp reduction that you
need to cool it in the radiator and then air cool it
just before sending the transmission fluid back to the tranny....

----------
Posted by: emory!posms.aus.tx.us!rick (Rick Kirchhof)
....]

I use the B & M supercooler on my GN.  I liked the solid cooling fin design and
the fact that it is more sturdy to rocks, bugs, etc., since I mount mine in
front of the radiator.  The aluminum fin cooler I used before had the tendency
to get bent fins after awhile.  Also, I must admit, I think I kind of bought
into the advertising hype about the B&M design ... <*blush*>  All I can say is,
it works as good as any other cooler I've used on any of my cars.

I also put mine on the input line to the radiator cooler, my reasoning being
that the greater temperature differential will make it more effective and
reduce the amount of heat transferred to the coolant, since the GNs are so
sensitive to temperature.  The side benefit is the fact that the tranny fluid
temp is always going to be at operating temps, even on cold days, like Rick
mentions.


-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National:  A *BOOST* of Buick Performance

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 14:47:09 1993
Subject: Cooling (was Re: street comp. ratio)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5701
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Rick Kirchhof writes in part:

>Airflow can be changed by increasing the action of the clutch or going 
>o a steeper pitch fan and/or one with more blades.  GM uses 5 and 7 
>blade asymmetric fans that DO NOT FLEX.  ANY flex fan is the wrong 
>solution for real cooling above an idle. 

This is probably true for GM cars but it isn't true for GM trucks.
The light trucks use flexible fans and no fan clutch.

I haven't had any cooling problems when using flexible fans but I
have had big time cooling problems with the clutch type fans.  I'll
stick with either flex or electric fans, thank you.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 14:51:59 1993
Subject: Hi-perf Catalytic Converter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5702
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have a 90 Grand Am with the HO Quad Roar.  Until recently the exhaust
system had a hole somewhere (I could not find it).  Now it sounds as though
the system is plugged at the converter (hissing noise at 4000+ RPM,
VERY bad performance).  The Pontiac dealer doesn't seem too willing to
replace the system under my extended warrenty (since I have 55,000 miles 
on the car).  SO, what I need to know is brand names and fair market
costs of some GOOD quality aftermarket catalytic converters.  Also,
I think I will have the exhaust system converted to a single exhaust
from the fakey backpressure inducing abortion which is factory installed.
Can anyone recommend a good high-perf muffler?  (i.e. will a generic
Turbo muffler be just as good after the cat as a Flowmaster?)

Please post or e-mail reponses as soon as possible, as I need the car this
weekend and must decide what to do by Thursday (that's when Mr. Pontiac
is going to replace my alternator for the second time).

Thanks for the help
Thomas Brunner
tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu

----------
Posted by: "Thomas A. Brunner" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 15:02:22 1993
Subject: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5703
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm thinking of adding a second fuel pump to maintain adequate pressure
on a turbo'ed EFI motor. The plan is to connect the additional pump
in series with the stock pump.... but I don't know which type of pump
would work best in this application. Roller-vane pumps seem to be
frequently recommended, will one of these work in an application where
another pump is feeding it?

[Pumps go in parallel.  You need to establish that you need additional
capacity before doing anything.  A simple pressure gauge will do that
for you.  I'd bet you don't need one.  I just measured the output of the
Bosch pump I use on my fuel injector bench.  It pumps 86 gal/hr against a
36 psi head.  JGD]

Some people have suggesting using a Bosch pump, but I've also heard that
the Bosch pump can be very noisy if it's not vibration isolated. Anyone
know what type of pump a Bosch electric pump is? (is it also roller-vane?)
A pump that could flow 40gph @50-60psi would give me plenty of reserve
capacity.

[In my experience, Bosch pumps are very quiet, much quieter than most others.
They DO need to be rubber mounted for street car use.  JGD]

Greg 
gag@arlvax.psu.edu

----------
Posted by: GREG GRANVILLE 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 15:07:15 1993
Subject: Re: Dart II heads - alternatives
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5704
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>> >>>Okay, here's the scoop... In my '79 Regal I have a Chevy 350.  It came
>> >>>out of a '78 Olds 98, but it is the Chevy engine.  It has a stock comp.
>> >>>ratio of 8.5:1  I am thinking about getting a set of different heads.

>	Don't forget, if you do go to a junkyard, have those heads checked for cracks. 
>About 50% of all used heads are cracked (believe it or not!)  There are many
>different heads out there, with tons of confusing numbers on them.  If you look
>into some back issues (I don't have the issue on me now), you can find a certain
>HotRod article telling you ALL about the different heads.  It tells you how to
>avoid the light castings, and how to pick the right cc chamber.  Take a look at
>that for starters.
>					Scott
>
>----------
>Posted by: emory!iastate.edu!munson1

You should also buy a book called 'how to rebuild your small-block chevy' by
David Wizard, HP-books. This is a really good book that also discusses head
swaps and has a chart for determining what C/R different heads give you.

Markus


----------
Posted by: emory!sta.ericsson.se!etxmst (Markus Strobl 98121)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 18:39:43 1993
Subject: Re: Hi-perf Catalytic Converter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5705
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <+5mxwp-@dixie.com> "Thomas A. Brunner" writes:
>VERY bad performance).  The Pontiac dealer doesn't seem too willing to
>replace the system under my extended warrenty (since I have 55,000 miles 
>on the car).

	Too bad for the Pontiac dealer.  This is why you bought the extended
warranty.  If he balks, take him to court.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1983 H-D FXWG Wide Glide - Jubilee's Red Lady
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 18:44:00 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5706
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Rick Kirchhof writes:
>This brings up an interesting question.  In Hayden's installation guide,
>if memory serves, you should insert the cooler in the return line from
>the radiator.  I have always done just the opposite.  I know for max temp
>reduction that you need to cool it in the radiator and then air cool it
>just before sending the transmission fluid back to the tranny.  My
>applications don't push the combination to it's ultimate limits and are
>monitored by a transmission pan temp gauge.  My thinking is that the time
>spent towing is a small fraction of total operation and in the winter it
>is difficult to avoid over cooling the fluid.  By blowing off all the heat
>the cooler can waste right out of the transmission, I rewarm the trans
>fluid in the radiator and protect the system during all seasons, loaded
>or empty.  Remember, the radiator both helps in transmission warm up and
>cool off, and that ATF is similar to 30 weight oil.  It will create more
>friction losses and accelerate wear if allowed to remain cold all the
>time.

Hayden is wrong and Rick is right.  The oil needs to be warm enough
to be a good lubricant, and transmission oil isn't all that good a
lubricant to start with.  The oil should be pre-heated by the
radiator's heat exchanger.

I also put the cooler between the trans and the radiator's heat
exchanger.  Even though I have a high stall converter in a heavy
vehicle I never get the oil turning brown or smelling burnt.  BTW,
I use a Valley cooler because that's what the local parts store had.

Bob Hale                       hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  6 18:48:54 1993
Subject: header tube dia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5707
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I'm in the planning process of building my own headers to fit the 
oddball of parts making up my fatrat project. I've come across
some 1 5/8" stainless tubing, would this be a good size to use
on a big block Chevy? I was thinking of 1 7/8" but this smaller
dia. came along with a price is right tag :-)


 

   Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu

   47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
   69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
   73 Camaro LT

----------
Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 08:16:03 1993
Subject: Re: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5708
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

GREG GRANVILLE writes:
I'm thinking of adding a second fuel pump to maintain adequate pressure
on a turbo'ed EFI motor. The plan is to connect the additional pump
in series with the stock pump.... but I don't know which type of pump
would work best in this application. Roller-vane pumps seem to be
frequently recommended, will one of these work in an application where
another pump is feeding it?

And John says:
[Pumps go in parallel.  You need to establish that you need additional
capacity before doing anything.  A simple pressure gauge will do that
for you.  I'd bet you don't need one.  I just measured the output of the
Bosch pump I use on my fuel injector bench.  It pumps 86 gal/hr against a
36 psi head.  JGD]


If you really do need to series fuel pumps then the only kind that
I know of which will let you draw through are the Stewart Warner
pulse types.  These things are noisy but they do work.  But one of
these will *not* solve a flow problem if you put it in series with
another pump.

Heed John's comments.  Factory pumps are usually more than adequate
these days.  Make a measurement to find out if you need more volume
capacity, and if you do then run parallel pumps.

Bob Hale                         hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 08:21:27 1993
Subject: Re: header tube dia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5709
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Unless you plan to go way over 5,000 rpm, the smaller dia tubing will be
good.  You may actually get more low end horsepower and torque with the
smaller dia stuff.  

	Have fun!

	TC

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 08:28:41 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5710
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Don't forget, if you do go to a junkyard, have those heads checked for cracks. 
>About 50% of all used heads are cracked (believe it or not!)  There are many
>different heads out there, with tons of confusing numbers on them.  If you look
>into some back issues (I don't have the issue on me now), you can find a certain
>HotRod article telling you ALL about the different heads.  It tells you how to
>avoid the light castings, and how to pick the right cc chamber.  Take a look at
>that for starters.

Looks like it's time to take a trip to the <*GASP*> library!  Thanks for the
info.

--
.--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 15:50:38 1993
Subject: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5711
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [In my experience, Bosch pumps are very quiet, much quieter than most
-> others. They DO need to be rubber mounted for street car use.  JGD]

 I guess one's early experiences with stuff tends to set one's
attitudes.  I just can't think of an electric fuel pump as reliable or
quiet.  I remember the one in a friend's Sprite going "dadadadadadadada"
all the time, except when it went "dadaaa............dut.......dut..."
and then one of us had to get out, lie on the ground, and whack the
thing with a rock.   Then there was the one on a friend's FIAT, which
always worked, but the cheap Italian fuel lines weren't up to it, or
something.  More than once we came to a halt fountaining gasoline at
several PSI.  Fortunately it never fireballed.

[Well, heck, you are talking about Lucas, Prince of Darkness and Immobility,
after all on that Sprite.  I'm familiar with that $&^%%^&^% pump.  My 
Jeep CJ has an american clone on it.  Delco I think.  It also goes
dadadadada.......... when it gets a bit hot.  Laziness has kept me
from changing it out.  At least it's on the fender well where I can easily
rap it or cool it.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:07:23 1993
Subject: Re: Cooling (was Re: street comp. ratio)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5712
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> This is probably true for GM cars but it isn't true for GM trucks.
> The light trucks use flexible fans and no fan clutch.
> 
> I haven't had any cooling problems when using flexible fans but I
> have had big time cooling problems with the clutch type fans.  I'll
> stick with either flex or electric fans, thank you.
> 
> Bob Hale
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
>
Are you referring to S trucks or full size C, K, & R models?  I have 
never seen flex fans on full size iron, or am I missing something?  
Refer to my original post for the reasons I "modify" them.  People who
buy the low dollar brands or those that are not true thermostatic fan
clutches, are disqualified for not paying attention.

Think of a truck pulling a heavy load up a hill.  When the transmission
(or driver) downshifts, the rpm's rise.  Flex fans move quite a lot of
air at low engine speeds, but BY DESIGN flatten out as the engine speeds
up.  Back to our truck climbing the hill with your car hauler, travel
trailer, boat, etc, in tow.  Just when the engine and A/C need max
airflow, the flex fan has laid down and died.  In reality, the faster you
rev it, the worse it works.  You also pay for the extra drag under normal
conditions because the low speed airflow is what the flex fan specializes
in.  There is just no way to turn it off, and the fuel economy suffers.
Fixed, agressive blades and a properly functioning fan clutch are hard to
beat.

I stand by my statement.

----------
Posted by: emory!posms.aus.tx.us!rick (Rick Kirchhof)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:17:57 1993
Subject: ProJection Trick
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5713
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Here's a trick that was suggested to improve the fuel regulator on a
Holley Projection.

This is being used on a supercharged Rx7.

On the side of the regulator housing there is a small vent hole.  Drill
the hole and press in some 1/8" tubing.  Connect the tubing to the manifold
pressure/vac. line.

Now the regulator will decrease the fuel flow while under vacuum and
increase it while under boost.

The person who suggested (and has done) this said it will greatly improve
the drivability of the system.

Any opinions?

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

[I can't imagine that working on a piston engine.  That would mean there 
was almost no fuel pressure at idle and cruise because the fuel pressure
is only 15 psi.  When the throttle is tipped and the acceleration enrichment
kicks in, there would be no fuel pressure for an instant.  I could only
imagine the bog getting worse.  Am I correct in assuming the rotary
engine is kinda like a two stroke and has low manifold vacuum at all times?
If so, it would have a much better chance of working.  Whathehell, I'm
game for anything.  I'll give it a try with my system. :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:20:21 1993
Subject: Re: header tube dia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5714
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article nxyrf@dixie.com, hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
> I'm in the planning process of building my own headers to fit the 
> oddball of parts making up my fatrat project. I've come across
> some 1 5/8" stainless tubing, would this be a good size to use
> on a big block Chevy? I was thinking of 1 7/8" but this smaller
> dia. came along with a price is right tag :-)
> 
> 
>  
> 
>    Bill Drake   -   bill@ecn.purdue.edu
> 
>    47 Ford Coupe////454/AT/3:00//// the "Fat Rat"
>    69 Camaro convertible////327/AT/2:73
>    73 Camaro LT
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!ecn.purdue.edu!bill


1 5/8" is only used on lo-performance small blocks so it may be a bit too small
for your big block

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!rjm (Roger Mrdutt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:22:24 1993
Subject: Re: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5715
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <8anxjsj@dixie.com> Bob Hale wrote:
: GREG GRANVILLE writes:
: I'm thinking of adding a second fuel pump to maintain adequate pressure
: on a turbo'ed EFI motor. The plan is to connect the additional pump
: in series with the stock pump.... but I don't know which type of pump
: would work best in this application. Roller-vane pumps seem to be
: frequently recommended, will one of these work in an application where
: another pump is feeding it?

: And John says:
: [Pumps go in parallel.  You need to establish that you need additional
: capacity before doing anything.  A simple pressure gauge will do that
: for you.  I'd bet you don't need one.  I just measured the output of the
: Bosch pump I use on my fuel injector bench.  It pumps 86 gal/hr against a
: 36 psi head.  JGD]


: If you really do need to series fuel pumps then the only kind that
: I know of which will let you draw through are the Stewart Warner
: pulse types.  These things are noisy but they do work.  But one of
: these will *not* solve a flow problem if you put it in series with
: another pump.

: Heed John's comments.  Factory pumps are usually more than adequate
: these days.  Make a measurement to find out if you need more volume
: capacity, and if you do then run parallel pumps.

Well, the original poster was interested in a booster pump for EFI,
which means higher pressure than the aftermarket pumps intended for
carburated systems. The turbo system complicates matters because the
injectors probably see the boost pressure, so they need more fuel
rail pressure to compensate for the boost. (If you add 5 psi boost,
you need to add another 5 psi fuel rail pressure ... or so I believe.) 

The 2 pumps in parallel scheme is the right way to go if all things
are equal. If you have a roller vane (positive displacement) pump in
the fuel tank, there are some practical problems. The easiest
workaround is to install a second in-line pump large enough to supply
the full flow and pressure. The oem pump in the tank will then
hopefully freewheel when the in-line tank is running. (It should run
fast enough with no load so that it can flow more fuel than if it was
making pressure. I wouldn't try to force more than the rated flow
through the stock pump.  The overspeed might kill it.) I understand
that this series mounted scheme is a standard kludge for getting a bit
more pressure.

[A positive displacement pump will NOT freewheel.  If gas is attempted
to be forced through it faster than by design, the motor will begin
generating electricity.  The battery will clamp the voltage firmly
at 13.8 or whatever it was, effectively govenoring the motor speed.
If he is upgrading from a carburator to FI, he should simply remove
any in-tank pump and install the appropriate FI pump.  Most every
port FI pump I've ever seen including the in-tank ones, are capable
of 100 psi or more of pressure with little drop in delivery.  You are
correct about having to add pressure when under boost but a stock pump
is capable of that as long as its flow capability isn't exceeded.  If 
it is, simply add a second pump in parallel.  If two positive displacement
pumps are hooked in series, the flow will be that of the lesser of the two.
If the low capacity pump is downstream, the upstream pump will run on
its internal bypass valve at all times.  Not good.  If the low capacity
pump is upstream, the downstream pump will cavitate as it starves
for fluid, also not good.  JGD]

Another possibility is to upgrade the tank mounted pump. I saw a
posting on the T-Type list where someone adapted a Corvette/Syclone
tank mounted pump to replace his stock tank mounted pump. (He used an
aftermarket clone of an AC-270 pump.) He had to fashion an adaptor to
mate the pump to the fuel sock.

P.S. Is the first issue of PEM out the door yet?

[I get it from the printer next Wednesday.  Or so he says, anyway. JGD]

Norb Brotz         nbrotz@cray.com

----------
Posted by: emory!palm.cray.com!nbrotz (Norb Brotz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:31:49 1993
Subject: Re: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5716
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey Hotrod crew,
  Speaking of electric fuel pumps...  are there any out there that should
particulary be avoided???  I know Holley pumps are known to suck some serious
current, but what about others?  What is the GROUP_OPINION on the mallory
pumps?  The reason I am asking is that my friend and I are putting the
finishing touches on our t-bucket.  The battery and charging system are
minimal, so we would rather pay the extra buck if the difference is 
considerable.  Noise is not a factor.  Also, since we haven't run fuel line(s)
yet, what is the real value of having a fuel return line (from pressure
bypass)?

  We should have it on the street within a few weeks...  and if it goes
straight, we will soon be putting on the NOS and/or Alcohol Injection... 
(big shit-eating grin inserted for effect ;-)

jC.  jca@fibercom.com

[I'm quite happy with my mallory pump.  Also quite happy with a Holly
pump, though it is expensive and noisy.  Another really nice pump 
that is not expensive is the AC/Rochester gearrotor pump.  It is
round, has a rolled seam in the middle and mounts on three bolts that
also hold the top on the gearrotor.  The motor is immersed in the fuel
so I'm not sure how it would do with alcohol.  These pumps are sitting
on the shelf since most everything I have now is fuel injected so I
could measure the current draw if you really need it.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:35:08 1993
Subject: Advantages/disadvantages of various spark plug types
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5717
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

What are the relative merits of gold/palladium, platinum, and
generic spark plugs. For example, how do they compare in
longevity and heat range? Is platinum best for longevity?
(Yes, I'm lazy, but that combination of turbo downpipe and
air conditioner doesn't help either ...) I heard that 
gold/palladium doesn't last very long. Why is it used for
racing?

On a related note, are distributorless ignition systems more
prone to misfire due to fouled spark plugs? What happend when
one of pair of spark plugs on a coil is fouled? Does it make the
other spark plug misfire? (Which plug leaks more current? Which
plug has the higher firing voltage? And what is the net effect?

Thanks,
-- 
Norb Brotz       Internet: nbrotz@cray.com      UUCP: uunet!cray!nbrotz

----------
Posted by: emory!palm.cray.com!nbrotz (Norb Brotz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 16:58:38 1993
Subject: Re: high performance cat converter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5718
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Thomas Brunner writes about his 90 Grand am:
Summit sells the Accel high flow converters for about $90.
Then get a Walker Dynomax Super Turbo muffler and get a muffler shop
to bend up a system. This would be ideal for your Pontiac

Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 17:50:03 1993
Subject: Re: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5719
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List (hotrod@dixie.com) wrote:
: I'm thinking of adding a second fuel pump to maintain adequate pressure
: on a turbo'ed EFI motor. The plan is to connect the additional pump
: in series with the stock pump.... but I don't know which type of pump
: would work best in this application. Roller-vane pumps seem to be
: frequently recommended, will one of these work in an application where
: another pump is feeding it?

: [Pumps go in parallel.  You need to establish that you need additional
: capacity before doing anything.  A simple pressure gauge will do that
: for you.  I'd bet you don't need one.  I just measured the output of the
: Bosch pump I use on my fuel injector bench.  It pumps 86 gal/hr against a
: 36 psi head.  JGD]

My stock 302EFI (Bronco) had a series pump set-up. One in the tank and one
on the frame rail. The forward pump delivers 70psi, but I'm not sure of the
flow. I don't have the numbers for the tank pump. When I replaced this engine
for a carburated 351, I put a switch on the tank fuel pump, I use it as a helper
for the holley pump up front, It delivered enough pressure/flow to get me home
once when the holley pump went south.

--

=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Steve D'Amelio  damelio@progress.com  |  69 Mustang 351W
                                      |  70 Mustang 351C
 Please close all windows at speeds   |  88 Mustang 302  
 beyond 140MPH                        |  - 1,025hp -
 - Sticker on dash of MA chase vehicle|  All for less than a New Camaro...
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=


----------
Posted by: emory!elba.progress.COM!damelio (Stephen D'Amelio)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 22:22:54 1993
Subject: Re: ProJection Trick
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5720
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Am I correct in assuming the rotary
> engine is kinda like a two stroke and has low manifold vacuum at all times?

Yes, that is largely so. The rotary cycle is very much like a two-stroke.


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  7 22:27:03 1993
Subject: Re: Re: header tube dia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5721
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Bill have you had a look through the "Headers by Ed" catalog from the business
of the same name in the Twin Cities, up north in Minnesota?  If not you might
want to ivest 5 bucks for both his catalogs.  He really caters to someone who
wants to build his own headers.Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  8 08:01:58 1993
Subject: Re: Tachometer question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5722
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>
>	I want to install a tachometer on my Jet Ski.  It has a CDI
>	ignition system.  I have found a couple of cheap tachometers
>	at the local auto parts stores but these are for car ignition
>	systems.  My Jet Ski is a 2 cylinder 2 stroke.  Would one of
				  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
				  This is the key 
	If the pistons are stagered (one is up and two is
	down this would mean it fires twice per revolution.
	A 4 stroke 4 cylinder fires twice per revolution;
	so a car tach set to 4 cylinders should work.
	If the cylinder are not stagered and both are up
	or both are down then it fires only once per revolution
	and it will not work.

	I hope this helps
			

----------
Posted by: emory!ebay.sun.com!Keith.Hargrove (Keith Hargrove)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  8 23:44:36 1993
Subject: Fuel Pump
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5723
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I recently in stalled a new in-tank pump in my GN. The guy I bought it from
bought a bunch of them from a surplus store. I was wondering if anyone could
tell me the original application. The pump is a high volume/pressure in-tank
unit. It will flow 33 gph @ 60 psi. The info that I have is:

Manufacturer: Walbro
Part Number: 4203953
Model Number: 5512

That's the info that was stamped into the side of the pump.

Ron 


----------
Posted by: "Mellum Ron" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  8 23:49:18 1993
Subject: GM Computer Help.?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5724
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



 Hello .
       I am currently in the process of transplanting the TPI of 
a 88 or so Camaro to a Non FI 1969 HT Monaro, 350 chevy, I have 
a friend who is going to import one of these late model GM`s with 
TPI from the US, The deal i have with him is that he will sell me
everything to do with the FI(manifold,injectors,computer,wiring,etc),
what i am wondering about is the antitheft ETC system`s involved with
the computer, Can i just unplug it transplant it and run it or does it
have to be recoded? ,is there any other problems i may incounter with
this transplant?? is there a separate wiring harness for the injection
or will i have to split it up and separate the FI wiring from the other
engine bay stuff???

All help and sugestions greatly apreciated.
Justin

P.S. Conection details would be of great help.

P.P.S. And also can this computer/system be converted to a sequential
firing system instead of batch????
       Can this system/computer be use with a MAP sensor and no Oxygen
       sensor??
       Can leaded gas be used????
       
    * Electric spagetti is so confusing..!

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  8 23:55:04 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-26*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5725
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, and my favorite bartender. PLEASE confirm dates and times 
with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Cycle World                           7/8      1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/8      2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                7/8      3:00-3:30PM      HTS*
MotorWeek '93 (Trooper & Rodeo)       7/8      8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Prime Time Motorsports                7/8      10:30-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR, Concord (L)      7/8     11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
AMA SUPERCROSS, LAS VEGAS (T)         7/9      12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/9      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             7/9      1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, MAGNY-COURS, FRANCE (T)    7/9      3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Winners (Emerson Fittipaldi)          7/10     9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (outboard motors)  7/10     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
NASCAR (NORTH), LOUDON (L)            7/10     1:00-3:00PM      TNN
SAAB PRO, WATKINS GLEN (T)            7/10     1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
Wild About Wheels                     7/10     2:00-2:30PM      DISC
NASCAR, WINSTON MODIFIEDS, LOUDON (L) 7/10     3:00-4:00PM      TNN
HYDROPLANE RACING, EVANSVILLE (T)     7/10     3:30-4:30PM      ESPN
FIREHAWK/SUPERCAR, SEBRING (T)        7/10     4:00-4:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/10     4:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek '93 (Legend Coupe)          7/10     5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
NHRA Today                            7/10     5:00-5:30PM      TNN
SpeedWeek                             7/10     7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/10     8:00-11:00PM     ESPN
SCCA TRANS-AM, PORTLAND (T)           7/11     12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
The Glory Days                        7/11     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             7/11     2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             7/11     3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (T)        7/11     4:00-6:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, SILVERSTONE, ENGLAND (L)   7/11     8:50-11:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
Truckin' USA                          7/11     9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/11     9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Motor Sports Hour                     7/11     9:30-10:30AM     HTS*
Winners (Emerson Fittipaldi)          7/11     10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today                            7/11     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Cycle World                           7/11     10:30-11:30AM    HTS*
Inside Winston Cup                    7/11     11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/11    11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Winston Cup Weekly                    7/11    11:30AM-12:00PM   HTS*
WINSTON CUP, NEW HAMPSHIRE (L)        7/11     1:00-5:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, CLEVELAND (L)                7/11     1:00-3:00PM    ABC,TSN
SCCA TRANS-AM, DES MOINES (L)         7/11     4:30-6:30PM      ESPN
NHRA Today                            7/11     5:00-5:30PM      TNN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/11     5:30-6:00PM      TNN
F ATLANTIC, HALIFAX (SD)              7/11     5:30PM           TSN
Shadetree Mechanic (outboard motors)  7/11     6:30-7:00PM      TNN
RaceDay Update (L)                    7/11     7:00-7:05PM      TNN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/11     7:00-9:00PM      ENC
Swamp Buggy Racing (T)                7/11     7:05-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/11     8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine                    7/11     11:00-11:30PM    TNN
INDYCAR, CLEV. OR F1, ENGLAND ?(SD)   7/11    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/11    11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer                           7/11    11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA                          7/12     12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (snowmobiles) 7/12     12:30-1:00AM     TNN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/12     9:00-11:00AM     ENC
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/12     1:00-3:00PM      ENC
The Glory Days                        7/12     3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
POWERBOAT RACING, MONTAUK (T)         7/12     3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
Movie: Smokey & The Bandit            7/12     8:05-10:05PM     TBS
IHRA, NITROUS NATIONALS, HUNTSVILLE (T7/13     12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/13     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
IHRA, SPORTSMAN SERIES, HUNTSVILLE (T)7/13     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, SILVERSTONE, ENGLAND (T)   7/13     3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
IHRA, EMPIRE NATIONALS, LEICESTER (T) 7/13     3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Movie: Smokey & The Bandit II         7/13     8:05-10:05PM     TBS
Checkered Flag (F1, Silverstone)      7/13     11:00-11:30PM    ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/14     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Secrets Of Speed (Emerson Fittipaldi) 7/14     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        7/14     4:00-4:30AM      ESPN
The Glory Days                        7/14     4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, MONTREAL (T)         7/14     5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
This Week On Pit Road                 7/14     6:00-6:30PM      HTS*
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING,SALT LAKE CITY(T)7/14     10:00-11:00PM    ESPN
NHRA, SPRINGNATIONALS, COLUMBUS (T)   7/14     10:30-11:30PM    HTS*
Speed Racer                           7/15     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
SCCA TRANS-AM, DES MOINES (T)         7/15     3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/15     3:30-4:00AM      MTV
POWERBOAT RACING, MONTAUK (T)         7/15     12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Cycle World                           7/15     1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/15     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                7/15     3:00-3:30PM      HTS*
MotorWeek '93 (Legend Coupe)          7/15     8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Prime Time Motorsports                7/15     10:30-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR, Pocono (L)       7/15    11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
WORLD(MOTORCYCLE) GRAND PRIX,GERMANY(T7/16     12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer                           7/16     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             7/16     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, MILWAUKEE (T)        7/16     2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
This Week In NASCAR, Pocono (T)       7/16     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Hydroplane Racing                     7/17     3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
The Glory Days                        7/17     4:30-5:00AM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS---------- 

F ATLANTIC, TORONTO (?)               7/17     5:00-6:30PM      TSN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/17     8:00-11:00PM     ESPN
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               7/18     12:00PM          TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L) ?                7/18     1:30-3:30PM      CBC
INDYCAR, TORONTO (SD) ?               7/18     4:00-6:00PM      ABC
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               7/24     TBA              TBA
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/24     8:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (L)    7/25     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            7/25     12:15PM          CBS
PIKES PEAK (T)                        7/25     TBA              ESPN
IMSA, LAGUNA SECA (?)                 7/25     TBA              TBA
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (SD)   7/25    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
S.N.THUNDER (L)                       7/31     8:00PM           ESPN
SCCA TRANS-AM, SEARS POINT (T)        8/1      12:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 8/1      2:00-5:00PM      ABC
ASA, HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY,TOPEKA (L)8/1      2:00-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (SD)                8/1     11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
IMSA GTP, PORTLAND (T)                8/2      12:00AM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 8/2      2:30AM           TSN
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (T)            8/7      8:00-10:00PM     ESPN
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       8/7      10:00PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         8/8      1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   8/8      3:30-5:30PM   ESPN,TSN
F ATLANTIC, NEW HAMPSHIRE (T)         8/9      7:30PM           TSN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (L)                8/14     1:00PM           ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        8/14     8:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  8/14    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      8/15     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             8/15     12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA NATIONALS, SONOMA (T)            8/15     3:30PM           ESPN
F ATLANTIC, TROIS RIVIERES (L)        8/15     5:00PM           TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     8/15    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek '93" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public TV stations around the US. If interested, 
please check the listings for your local public TV
station(s).  [Also please remember to send them a couple $'s if you
like the show. Those folks will always appreciate the help.]

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 00:31:04 1993
Subject: Re: ProJection Trick
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5727
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


On 7 Jul 93 15:18, hotrod wrote:

>imagine the bog getting worse.  Am I correct in assuming the rotary
>engine is kinda like a two stroke and has low manifold vacuum at all times?

The rotary is just like a two stroke, you get a spark/intake event each
revolution.

I am not sure about the vacuum.  Since mine is supercharged, I have
about 15" of vac at idle.  If I touch the gas it jumps into boost (even
when in neutral.  While crusing, if I back off the gas it goes back
into vacuum.

One problem I have with the Pro-Jection is that while at idle, the fuel
comes out of the injectors hits the throttle plates and bounces back
out of the throttle-body.  Holley said that this is normal?

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

[With Holly, if it'll crank at all, it's normal.  Grrr.  Mine does the same
thing.  Is your throttle body arranged as a side draft unit?  I saw a 
supercharger kit for the Datsun Z engine from Jim Cook Racing that had
the huge 4 barrel Projection throttle body set up for side draft.  I 
kinda figured fuel dribble would be a problem.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 00:48:01 1993
Subject: RE: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5728
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>My stock 302EFI (Bronco) had a series pump set-up. One in the tank and >one on
the frame rail. 

While searching for a fuel system upgrade for my GN, I found that the Merkur
XR4TI uses the same type of setup. The intank pump is a low pressure one and
the external series pump is high pressure and has it's pressure relief set to
something like 140 psi! I would think that the injectors would shut down long
before that.

Ron

----------
Posted by: "Mellum Ron" 
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Jul  9 02:15:37 1993
Subject: Re: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5726
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Thanks to all for the advice on the fuel pump question. I originally
got the kludgey idea for adding a second pump in series with the
first from HKS. It seems that they recommend this procedure only on
this one particular vehicle (Diamond-Star turbo). They claim that the stock
pump has a pressure fall-out when the injector duty cycle nears 90% and
boost is run beyond 17psi. (Stock injector duty cycle probably maxes out
at 80% before fuel cut takes place, and boost is limited to about 11psi)
I figured that *if* this were true, I could still find a cheaper pump
that would do the job just as well, or better than the extremely over-priced
Bosch pump that they (HKS) were pushing.
It would seem that either the stock pump, or the Bosch pump they are
recommending must not be a positive displacement pump... If they are
both positive displacement pumps, it sounds like nothing would be gained
(at best). Of course, this wouldn't be the first time some company sold
a worthless solution for a possibly non-existant problem.
The pressure gauge sounds like the best thing to do right now... 
ISSPRO has a nice little 270 degree sweep mechanical gauge that reads
up to 100psi (#8607). The static fuel pressure is 36psi, so if the
measured fuel pressure always remains exactly 36psi above the manifold
pressure, I should be OK, right?

This might all be leading somewhere else... 
I'm hoping to come up with a way to increase fuel pressure by an additional
10-15psi that will progressively kick-in when I near the point where the
injector duty cycle is maxing out. I'm not looking at larger injectors
right now, because I don't have a reprogrammable fuel ECU.

Greg Granville        Applied Research Lab - PSU     (814)865-3310 (work)
gag@arlvax.psu.edu        University Park, PA        (814)339-7244 (home)
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
                I wish my turbo didn't make that noise...
  Every time the boost comes up, I think I'm hearing a police siren!

[The bosch pump I mentioned before is the stock pump from an early model
Datsun 280Z.  It's pretty generic.  The internal relief valve lifts at
about 125 psi so it should provide you with plenty of reserve pressure.
You should be able to pick one up from a junkyard for $20 or less.
That's what I've paid for the last few I've bought for use on other
projects.  This pump only draws 2 amps at 36 psi backpressure.  The
Holly EFI pump draws 9 amps under the same conditions.  Nine amps at
13.8 volts is well over 100 watts.  Considering that all this power is
dissipated in the fuel stream, fuel heating, particularly with a mostly
empty tank in hot weather can become a significant concern.  If the fuel
gets hot enough, the system can suffer from its own peculiar form of
vapor lock when the fuel pump starts cavitating.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: GREG GRANVILLE 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 03:42:31 1993
Subject: port goop
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5729
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 This stuff can be a pain in the arse, y'know?

 Many of the engine books I have show nice port plugs, cast in foam
rubber.  Engine porters pour the stuff into the port, let it set, and
then pull out the soft rubber plug, which shows the shape of the port.
Easy, right?

 Gah.

 I finally found a reference to Air Flow Research, which sells AFR Port
Foam.  I wrote them a letter, and got a reply saying they didn't sell
the stuff any more, but I could get it from Chicago Latex in Chicago IL.
So after six months of round tuits, I called Chicago information, got
the number, and got connected to a goddamned-phone-screener-machine.
Amazingly, I got a callback in less than an hour.

 Chicago Latex doesn't sell a foam.  They sell a very soft rubber, a
three-part (!) compound you mix and pour into the port.  It takes 24
hours to cure.    It's black in color, soft enough to work out of
the port without tearing, etc.  They even sell direct.

 Bad news:  It's $98.75 per gallon.  Shipping weight is 14 pounds, plus
$3.50 packing charge and around $10 for UPS ground depending on where
you are.  Figure $115, roughly.  It's part number 588 "Cold Stretch"
rubber.

 Depending on your port size, a gallon ain't gonna go very far - I'd
guess maybe 20 plugs on 351C-sized ports - that's $5 per plug.  A full
day of curing time ain't so hot either.

 According to the salesman, *someone* out there actually does make a
castable foam, since they get calls about it from time to time.  Does
anyone know where I can get this stuff?

[Try Dow Corning.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 15:45:06 1993
Subject: RE: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5730
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>The static fuel pressure is 36psi, so if the measured fuel pressure >always
remains exactly 36psi above the manifold pressure, I should be >OK, right?

Is the 36psi measured with or without vacuum at the regulator? To get a true
reading, the vacuum line to the regulator must be removed and plugged first.
Otherwise, the vacuum helps to unseat the regulator thus lowering the pressure
at idle.

Ron

----------
Posted by: "Mellum Ron" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 15:50:22 1993
Subject: Re: GM Computer Help.?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5731
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>       I am currently in the process of transplanting the TPI of 
>a 88 or so Camaro to a Non FI 1969 HT Monaro, 350 chevy, I have 
>a friend who is going to import one of these late model GM`s with 
>TPI from the US, The deal i have with him is that he will sell me
>everything to do with the FI(manifold,injectors,computer,wiring,etc),
>what i am wondering about is the antitheft ETC system`s involved with
>the computer, Can i just unplug it transplant it and run it or does it
>have to be recoded? ,is there any other problems i may incounter with
>this transplant?? is there a separate wiring harness for the injection
>or will i have to split it up and separate the FI wiring from the other
>engine bay stuff???

	The latest issue of Chevy High Performance magazine describes how to
do a TPI transplant into an older car. They sent their stock wiring harness
to a company ,(can't remember name) and they modified it for use in any
non-TPI vehicle. They also dissable the theft deterent feature.



	Good Luck

	Pete

	psanders@ll.mit.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!ll.mit.edu!psanders (Peter Sanders)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 15:55:32 1993
Subject: Re: Cooling (was Re: street comp. ratio)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5732
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I wrote about flex fans in GM trucks and Rick Kirchhof replied:

>Are you referring to S trucks or full size C, K, & R models?  I have 
>never seen flex fans on full size iron, or am I missing something?  
>Refer to my original post for the reasons I "modify" them.  People who
>buy the low dollar brands or those that are not true thermostatic fan
>clutches, are disqualified for not paying attention.

I was referring to the full size ones, C and K for sure.  I don't know
about the R or S models.

Rick continues:
>Think of a truck pulling a heavy load up a hill.  When the transmission
>or driver) downshifts, the rpm's rise.  Flex fans move quite a lot of
>air at low engine speeds, but BY DESIGN flatten out as the engine speeds
>up.  Back to our truck climbing the hill with your car hauler, travel
>trailer, boat, etc, in tow.  Just when the engine and A/C need max
>airflow, the flex fan has laid down and died.  In reality, the faster you
>rev it, the worse it works.  You also pay for the extra drag under normal
>conditions because the low speed airflow is what the flex fan specializes
>in.  There is just no way to turn it off, and the fuel economy suffers.

To get adequate cooling you need air flow through the radiator.  Once
you get to about 30-40 MPH there is plenty of air available just because
of the motion of the vehicle through the air.  The fan becomes unnecessary
at road speeds.

Flex fans have excellent air flow capability at low engine speed and
they flatten out and reduce their drag and power requirements at
higher engine speed which normally corresponds with higher road speed,
just where you don't need the fan any more.  I have fixed cooling problems
by replacing cluth fans with solid drive flex fans.

The flex fan does have a drawback - it's lots noisier than a non-flex
fan, and the nature of the noise changes interestingly as the RPM
gets into the range where the blades flatten out.  It's strange to
hear what sounds like the engine RPM decreasing as you rev it up.  It's
actually the fan sound changing as the blades flatten out.

If you happen to have a compound low gear and you happen to need very
high power output for long periods of time at low vehicle speeds then
a flex fan might not work for you.  Normal operating conditions don't
include these circumstances.

BTW, don't try to run a rigid fan with a solid coupling.  It's
guaranteed to smoke your fan belt when you rev it up.

Bob Hale                   hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 20:24:21 1993
Subject: Re: ProJection Trick
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5733
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


On 9 Jul 93 00:03, hotrod wrote:

>thing.  Is your throttle body arranged as a side draft unit?  I saw a 

Nope, Its mounted on the top.

Here's another problem I had.  I purchase an Edelbrock pro-flow 1000
air filter.  Supposidly it can flow 1000 cfm.  At 8000 rpm and 10psi
of boost the engine will flow a max of 740 cfm.  Well, the car ran awful
with the filter on and could only develop 8 psi of boost.  I looked
under the hood and the foam was getting sucked away from the wire housing.
1000cfm? RIGHT!!  This thing is going in the trash.  I am making a housing
to hold a 10" by 21" by 3" thick K&N (this is the biggest they make
in 3" thickness).  This should flow enough air.

John,  let us know how the pressure tube on the regulator works.  I
have some other things to work on so I won't get to it till next weekend.

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  9 20:29:23 1993
Subject: RE: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5734
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Howdy,
  Again on the subject of fuel goodies:  does anyone know of any sources
for good/cheap high performance pressure bypass regulators?  We are
looking for something that will accept 1/2" fuel lines...
(John D. mentioned Kenne Belle; anyone dealt with him/them or have a price
list???)

T-bucket status update:  we will be doing the wiring this weekend...
and possibly welding the wheelie bar brackets.  fun fun fun!

Thanks,
jC.

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 10 15:08:17 1993
Subject: port goop
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5735
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> anyone know where I can get this stuff?
->
-> [Try Dow Corning.  JGD]

 No Dow Corning in my phone book.  Do you have a number?
                                                                  
[Local number here in Atlanta is

Dow Corning
115 Perimeter Center PL NE
Atlanta, GA   
404 751 7979

JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 10 15:12:44 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5736
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> cool off, and that ATF is similar to 30 weight oil.  It will create
-> more friction losses and accelerate wear if allowed to remain cold
-> all the time.

 Uh... no.  Plain old Dexron II is noticeably thinner than 5 weight oil,
which was the thinnest oil I could get.  The MacPherson struts on my old
'72 Capri were rebuildable, and I played around with all sorts of stuff
in them.  Plain old ATF was too thin, but 10-wt oil worked fine.

 Dexron II doesn't feel "oily", but it's a pretty good lubricant just
the same.  Works fine in most manual transmissions - in the Capri, and
my wife's RX, I merely drained the 90-weight out and refilled with ATF.
There is some noise increase, though.  It's been in the Capri for six
years.

 ATF also maintains its viscosity over a very wide temperature range.
Since automatic transmissions don't have the sliding wear surfaces of an
auto engine, the stuff is compounded primarily to be a good hydraulic
fluid for the torque convertor.  Lubrication is secondary, as roller
bearings don't need much.  ATF lacks most of the usual motor oil
additive package.  Since the automatic transmission's wear
characteristics aren't even approximately similar to those of a piston
engine, it really doesn't matter much what the temperature of the fluid
is, as long as it doesn't get too hot.
                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 10 15:17:49 1993
Subject: Re: Re: header tube dia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5737
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Bill have you had a look through the "Headers by Ed" catalog from the
-> business of the same name in the Twin Cities, up north in Minnesota?
-> If not you might want to ivest 5 bucks for both his catalogs.  He
-> really caters to someone who wants to build his own headers.Mike

 And that someone should have a fat wallet.  For the price of one of his
kits, you can buy two or three sets of ordinary headers.  Ow!
                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 10 15:21:38 1993
Subject: GM Computer Help.?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5738
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> what i am wondering about is the antitheft ETC system`s involved with

 This is not part of the ECM, as far as I know.  It should be controlled
by the Body Computer.  The Corvette has a "valet mode" which limits
power according to a signal from the ignition switch (special valet
key).


-> this transplant?? is there a separate wiring harness for the
-> injection or will i have to split it up and separate the FI wiring
-> from the other engine bay stuff???

 It's not that bad.  The connectors are all special, and only fit their
appropriate sensors.  You NEED the sensors - the water temp, throttle
position, etc.  The EFI won't work without them.


-> P.P.S. And also can this computer/system be converted to a sequential
-> firing system instead of batch????

 Not as far as I know.


->      Can this system/computer be use with a MAP sensor and no Oxygen
->      sensor??

 No.  The GM TPI runs closed loop using the oxygen sensor to adjust the
fuel flow.  There *are* some really shitball conversion kits out there
(the early Street & Performance kits for example) which lop off all the
sensors but the throttle position sensor and run the computer in
limp-home mode, but you want to avoid those.  They're not even as good
as a plain old carburetor.


->      Can leaded gas be used????

 Nope.  It'll kill the oxygen sensor, which is a critical component.


 Now, there are people who make replacement computers ($1000 US and up)
which they claim will let you ignore selected sensors and run from a
programmable map, but they're expensive and not as accurate as the stock
Tuned Port, which is pretty darned flexible.  The only time you'll need
to jockey around with the TPI is if you add a cam with enough overlap to
confuse the oxygen sensor, or if you're running forced induction.
                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 03:17:24 1993
Subject: Re: Cooling (was Re: street comp. ratio)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5739
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Bob Hale continues to reply with:

> To get adequate cooling you need air flow through the radiator.  Once
> you get to about 30-40 MPH there is plenty of air available just because
> of the motion of the vehicle through the air.  The fan becomes unnecessary
> at road speeds.
> 
> Flex fans have excellent air flow capability at low engine speed and
> they flatten out and reduce their drag and power requirements at
> higher engine speed which normally corresponds with higher road speed,
> just where you don't need the fan any more.  I have fixed cooling problems
> by replacing cluth fans with solid drive flex fans.
> 
> The flex fan does have a drawback - it's lots noisier than a non-flex
> fan, and the nature of the noise changes interestingly as the RPM
> gets into the range where the blades flatten out.  It's strange to
> hear what sounds like the engine RPM decreasing as you rev it up.  It's
> actually the fan sound changing as the blades flatten out.
> 
> If you happen to have a compound low gear and you happen to need very
> high power output for long periods of time at low vehicle speeds then
> a flex fan might not work for you.  Normal operating conditions don't
> include these circumstances.
> 
> BTW, don't try to run a rigid fan with a solid coupling.  It's
> guaranteed to smoke your fan belt when you rev it up.
> 
> Bob Hale                   hale@brooktree.com
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
>  

What do you pull?  I know of any number of RV owners who have done what
you say and find that there is NO airflow just when they need it.  Your
comment about airflow from road speed is true but optimistic.  Try more
like 45+ mph.  In a Class A motorhome (those that use a complete body made 
by the motorhome company), road airflow may never become sufficient due to
restrictive front end designs and lots of heat generated.  Even a lowly 6
cylinder P/U, when equipped to tow, will have a numerically high axle
ratio that would cause a flex fan to not work when the needed because of
high cruise rpm's or a downshift.

Compound gears would certainly cause poor flex fan performance, but many
other real world situations do as well.  Consult _Trailer Life_ or a
similar motorhome magazine for readers experiences with your idea.  Late
model Suburbans with 7.4L and dual factory air have the best fan clutch
you can buy AS WELL as an electric pusher fan to keep the A/C from
wimping out at idle.  A flex fan will not perform as well at any speed
under this kind of load.  BTW, the drag even on a flex fan that is fully
flat is quite a bit higher than a freewheeling clutch fan.

In most situations, cooling can be less than optimum and you will get away
with it.  When you really push the total drivetrain, lots of marginal
equipment introduces itself to you.

----------
Posted by: emory!posms.aus.tx.us!rick (Rick Kirchhof)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 17:47:19 1993
Subject: A couple of comments/notes and a question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5740
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi all.  Well, a few of you may remember about a month ago I grenaded the
engine in my 1981 Z28.  Well, this weekend, I put a new engine in it (and
removed the old one.)  I haven't completely torn the old one apart yet, but
it didn't throw a rod.  Well, not exactly.  It seems to have broken the
crankshaft in about 3 or 4 places, leaving a few big chunks and lots of
little ones.  When the crank broke, shrapnel (and connecting rods and pistons
too) went everywhere.  Good thing I wrote the whole engine off, as it also
managed to break the camshaft in a few places, and even pulled a few rocker
studs out of the heads!  It's pretty much a boat anchor, and I may not even
finish pulling it apart (but I think curiosity will force me to. :) )

Now, for the question:  I put in the new engine this weekend, and it runs
great, with 1 problem, and I want to see what other people think.  First,
some background on the engine so you have something to work with.  The engine
is a small block Chevy 350, 4-bolt main, forged chromoly crankshaft, flat-top
pistons with approx. 10-10.5:1 comp. ratio, Dart II S/R heads, Torker II
intake (open plenum), cam specs are (int/exh) .488/.510 lift, 232/242 duration
@.050, 114 lobe sep.  The transmission is a built TH350 with a 2200rpm stall
converter, with 3.73:1 rear end gears.  The carb is a 750cfm Holley, center 
hung fuel bowls, dual feed, vacuum secondaries (details here because this is
where the question is.)

The car idles good, runs great, but has a problem when put into gear.  As
soon as I put it into gear, the car wants to stall.  If I keep the revs up
a little, it won't stall, but then I get an idle speed about 1200.  I think
the carb needs to be rebuilt, but am wondering what specific types of things
would cause this?  I assume it is a carb problem, as I can't find any obvious
vacuum leaks.  Another reason I think it may be carb-related is that it takes
an unusually long time for the engine to wind down when you rev it up a little
in neutral (it just kinda floats back down to the 1000rpm range.)

Thanks for any advice/answers.

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 17:59:43 1993
Subject: Re: RE: Fuel pump wisdom
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5741
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Let's hear some more about your roadster?Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 18:08:42 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5742
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams) writes:
> Dexron II doesn't feel "oily", but it's a pretty good lubricant just
>the same.  Works fine in most manual transmissions - in the Capri, and
>my wife's RX, I merely drained the 90-weight out and refilled with ATF.
>There is some noise increase, though.  It's been in the Capri for six
>years.

	Another serendipity discovery use for ATF is to remove rust from non
o-ring motorcycle chains.  Amazing stuff--soak the chain for awhile and the
rust has disappeared!  Frozen links once again bend.

	Not really hotrod stuff, but gearhead stuff at least.

[Hey, we do motorcycles here too :-)  ATF truly is wonderful stuff.
I've used it in motorcycle (2-stroke) and car manual trannys for at least
20 years.  Not sure Marvel Mystery oil isn't just ATF with some camphor. 
In the one test I ever did on a dyno, going from 30 wt non-detergent to
ATF bought a horsepower on a 15 hp 100cc engine.  I've tried it in 
rear ends with an EP additive but always chickened out before I put a
lot of miles on it.  Gotta give it another try.

Just heard this on the radio as I was typing:

Davy Allison and Red Farmer were in a helicoptor that crashed in the infield
at Talledega Motor Speedway.  They were transported to the Burn Center at 
Birmingham Hospital, condition unknown.  God, I hope an aircraft hasn't 
taken another one.  Gotta keep these race car drivers out of airplanes.  
Too dangerous.

Later,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1983 H-D FXWG Wide Glide - Jubilee's Red Lady
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 18:14:10 1993
Subject: Re: GM Computer Help.?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5743
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> have to be recoded? ,is there any other problems i may incounter with
> this transplant?? is there a separate wiring harness for the injection
> or will i have to split it up and separate the FI wiring from the other
> engine bay stuff???
> 
> All help and sugestions greatly apreciated.
> Justin

Summit sells the EFM system from Accel which will let you install the TPI stuff
on a non FI car.  It also converts Mass Air Flow to Speed density with the 
included MAP sensor, and it's programable(through a pc, software kit for $150) 
for a whole bunch of stuff including engine size, ignition and I think NOS too
The kit includes the computer, main and fuel injector wiring harness, MAP 
sensor and O2 sensor and complete instructions.  They also claim the kit gives
you a min of 25-30 hp and 40-50 lbs./ft. torque, increase over stock ECU setup
and it runs about $700.   (I think you're going to need an HEI distributor to 
go with that)

Summit Racing Equipment
PO Box 909
Akron OH 44398-6177
phone #(216) 630-0200


S&P sells some open and closed loop wiring harness for about $500.

Jeg's sell's a Hypertech wiring harness for $575.

Jeg's High Performance Mail Order
751 E. 11th Avenue 
Columbus,  Ohio  43211
(800) 345-4545

> P.P.S. And also can this computer/system be converted to a sequential
> firing system instead of batch????

Accel has this system (ECU & harness I believe) for about 2 G's.


>        Can this system/computer be use with a MAP sensor and no Oxygen
>        sensor??

Why would you want to kill the O2 sensor? It only helps the fuel economy and 
besides at WOT you're running open loop anyway.


-------
$0.01
Mark Frouhar           frouharf@acf2.nyu.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!acf2.NYU.EDU!frouharf (frouharf)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 18:19:13 1993
Subject: K&N Filters - good or bad?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5744
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've used K&N filters in several of the cars over the years, and they seem to 
work as advertised, decent filtration (engine oil and innards look good), engine
runs ok.  I was wondering, though, is there anything out there that's better?  
Or are K&N's really not very good, and I just haven't noticed yet?  By better I 
mean something that filters as well as a paper filter, but flows better.  Or 
that flows at least as well, but filters better.  Of course, it would be nice if
brand X also was available to fit in various stock air filter housings, but that
isn't a real big concern.

Anyway, I'm planning on setting up a cold air system from my RR's wheelwells, 
and I want to make sure that the extra dirt from there doesn't make it into the 
engine.

------
Bryan Blackwell bryan@mitre.org (703) 883 7329

'65 Corvair, '66 E-type, '69 Road Runner
"Yeah, it's nice, but it needs a little more power"
------

----------
Posted by: "Bryan Blackwell"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 20:00:02 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5745
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

JGD sez:

[Hey, we do motorcycles here too :-)  ATF truly is wonderful stuff.
I've used it in motorcycle (2-stroke) and car manual trannys for at least...]

So now I'm wondering - has anyone tried this or have a guess about how
it would work in a transmission with a Laycock overdrive unit
(sun/planet gearbox with a hydraulically-activated unidirectional
clutch, sharing oil supply with the main gearbox) on the output shaft?
I'm always looking for alternatives to normal 90wt for this
application, but I worry about screwing up the fairly finicky OD box.

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 20:10:03 1993
Subject: halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5746
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 After plotting out the possible geometries for IRS using the halfshaft
as a suspension member, I've determined all possible geometries except
MacPherson strut stink, and the strut ain't that hot.  The Corvette and
Jaguar, among others, use the halfshaft as the upper suspension link so
they can avoid using a telescoping driveshaft, "plunge" shafts as the
British say.

 I need some roller-element driveshafts.  Don't some of the front wheel
drive cars use Rzeppa joints with provision for plunge?

 Scenario 1:  halfshaft used as upper link
        advantages:  cheap
                     strong
                     no chance of binding under load
        disadvantages:  geometry sucks


 Scenario 2:  Floating shaft
        advantages:  no geometry constraints (use A-arms in rear)
        disadvantages:  expensive?
                        probably going to be a weak point in the
                           driveline
                        may still bind under acceleration - 450 ft-lb
                        * 3.03 first gear * 3.73 final drive = 5,086
                        ft-lb max (posi breakaway is usually <100 ft-lb,
                        so is negligible
                                                             

[Datsun Zs use U-joint jack shafts with "plunge" that seem to stand up
to V-8 conversions OK.  My BMW 635csi has monstrous telescoping CV
jackshafts that probably have equally monstrous prices.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 13 12:02:45 1993
Subject: tire size chart
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5747
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I've been scrounging for tire sizes lately, for a project I'm doing.
Jeez, the tire makers don't seem to want to part with OD and section
width information any more.  The list is now several hundred lines.  If
there's any interest I can post it to the list.
                                                                              

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Wed Jul 14 00:46:59 1993
Subject: A couple of comments/notes and a question...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5748
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> pistons with approx. 10-10.5:1 comp. ratio, Dart II S/R heads, Torker
-> II intake (open plenum), cam specs are (int/exh) .488/.510 lift,
-> 232/242 duration @.050, 114 lobe sep.  The transmission is a built
-> TH350 with a 2200rpm stall converter, with 3.73:1 rear end gears.
-> The carb is a 750cfm Holley, center hung fuel bowls, dual feed,
-> vacuum secondaries (details here because this is
....
-> soon as I put it into gear, the car wants to stall.  If I keep the
-> revs up a little, it won't stall, but then I get an idle speed about
-> 1200.

 With the Dart heads, single plane intake, and big carb, 1200 is high
but not out of bounds.  What kind of vacuum is this thing pulling?
Under 13 or 14 inches and you'll probably never get much of an idle.

 The "kind of floats back down to 1000 RPM" type problem is usually an
indication of a vacuum leak.  You don't have any carb air passages
hanging off the side of the intake mounting flange?  Power brake booster
hoses OK, diaphragm not ruptured?  etc.

 If you intend to use the car for fast road work or autocross, as
opposed to drag racing, you might consider switching to a 600CFM Holley
instead.  You'll trade off a small amount of top end power for vastly
improved low-end response, idle, and fuel economy.  If you want to stay
with a big carb, but decide to replace the one you have, consider the
750CFM Carter AFB/Edelbrock carbs.  They're much easier to tune and more
tolerant of low vacuum conditions.  The downside is, if you're running a
large volume, low velocity induction system (Victor Jr or equivalent)
you won't be able to get the kind of accelerator pump shot out of the
Carter you can from the Holley.  For your engine, there'd be no trouble.


 Other:  How does the Z/ZX rear end stand up to a V8?  Are posis
available?  Gear ratios?  Is there any way to tell other than decoding
chassis numbers or ripping the car apart?  I was going to narrow an 8"
Ford rear for a project, but one of the local yards is selling Datsun
rears cheap.
                                                                  

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Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 00:50:46 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5749
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Davy Allison and Red Farmer were in a helicoptor that crashed in the
-> infield at Talledega Motor Speedway.  They were transported to the
-> Burn Center at Birmingham Hospital, condition unknown.  God, I hope
-> an aircraft hasn't taken another one.  Gotta keep these race car
-> drivers out of airplanes. Too dangerous.

 Race car drivers and rock performers both.  Ever notice hardly anyone
famous ever gets it in a car wreck?
            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 01:14:58 1993
Subject: halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5750
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [Datsun Zs use U-joint jack shafts with "plunge" that seem to stand
-> up to V-8 conversions OK.  My BMW 635csi has monstrous telescoping CV
-> jackshafts that probably have equally monstrous prices.  JGD]

 Do all Zs have plunge shafts?  Including the ZXs?  One of the local
yards has several ZXs.  Any idea how much plunge travel?

[Disclaimer: I consider the production of Zs to have stopped in 78 :-)
All Zs I know of have plunge shafts.  How much travel, I have no idea.
I'd guess between 1 and 2 inches.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:00:42 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5751
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I'm always looking for alternatives to normal 90wt for this
-> application, but I worry about screwing up the fairly finicky OD box.

 Heck, give it a shot.  Automatic transmissions use planetary gears and
bands, too.  I've only run into two cases where I drained the ATF - a
Muncie four-speed, which leaked all over the place with ATF, and a
German-made Capri transmission, which was too noisy to stand.  Saginaw
four speeds work fine, as do the British built Capri transmissions.

 One thing you need to watch for is the venting system - most boxes vent
up top, but a few vent on the input shaft, and will drool ATF onto the
clutch during hard braking.

 Lots of manuals use ATF nowadays, but a friend's '90 Corvette has the
Getrag 6-speed, and it takes 30 weight motor oil.

 There are two major things you'll usually get when you switch from 90wt
to ATF - the noise level will go up slightly.  That doesn't bother most
people.  The shifting will change DRAMATICALLY - for a gearhead like me,
being able to actually *feel* the synchros do their thing through the
lever was neat, as was being able to shift normally in subzero weather.
Some people can't stand the "mechanical" feel you get when running ATF.

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:06:01 1993
Subject: Re: Tranny Cooler
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5752
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	>Another serendipity discovery use for ATF is to remove rust from non
>o-ring motorcycle chains.  Amazing stuff--soak the chain for awhile and the
>rust has disappeared!  Frozen links once again bend.

	I`ve used ATF for fork oil in all of my dirt and street bikes since 74'.
Never had a problem.

	Pete

----------
Posted by: emory!ll.mit.edu!psanders (Peter Sanders)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:10:20 1993
Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5753
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Forwarded message:
> From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 12 18:08:35 1993
> 
> 	Not really hotrod stuff, but gearhead stuff at least.
> 
> [Hey, we do motorcycles here too :-)  ATF truly is wonderful stuff.
> I've used it in motorcycle (2-stroke) and car manual trannys for at least
> 20 years.  Not sure Marvel Mystery oil isn't just ATF with some camphor. 
> In the one test I ever did on a dyno, going from 30 wt non-detergent to
> ATF bought a horsepower on a 15 hp 100cc engine.  I've tried it in 
> rear ends with an EP additive but always chickened out before I put a
> lot of miles on it.  Gotta give it another try.
> 
> Davy Allison and Red Farmer were in a helicoptor that crashed in the infield
> at Talledega Motor Speedway.  They were transported to the Burn Center at 
> Birmingham Hospital, condition unknown.  God, I hope an aircraft hasn't 
> taken another one.  Gotta keep these race car drivers out of airplanes.  
> Too dangerous.
> 
Sorry to hear this news.
> -- 
> Chris BeHanna	

A friend has told me that Marvel Mystery Oil is coal oil.  It has a very
high evaporation temperature.  So when you add to engine oil, it can
stay on the valve guides without evaporating and thus free sticking
valves.  Similarly it can stay on piston rings and free them up.
It has done such wonders for me.

It may very well have camphor and atf in it as well.  Smells like it.
tom root

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:17:22 1993
Subject: So long Davey...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5754
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I just heard that Davey Allison Died this morning... 

As you all probably know by now, he crashed his helicopter at talladega.
His crew announced that he passed away at 8:30 this morning...


-dan a.

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:39:07 1993
Subject: Halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5755
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave writes:
|> 
|>  After plotting out the possible geometries for IRS using the halfshaft
|> as a suspension member, I've determined all possible geometries except
|> MacPherson strut stink, and the strut ain't that hot.  The Corvette and
|> Jaguar, among others, use the halfshaft as the upper suspension link so
|> they can avoid using a telescoping driveshaft, "plunge" shafts as the
|> British say.

Sorry Dave, I can't help you in your quest (had a thought later, see below).  I 
was hoping that you could enlighten me a bit about what is bad with using the 
halfshafts as a link.  As you pointed out, Jags and 'Vettes use them (Corvairs 
do too), and I was under the impression that it was an ok, if not great, setup 
(the 'Vair susp can bind, for one).  Though I didn't plot it at too many angles,
the Corvair seemed pretty good, and the photos I've taken at autocrosses seem to
verify this.

The big problem I found was that the way it is made, the suspension can bind 
since there are only three links.  Using heim joints on the lower paralell 
member solves this pretty well, though it still isn't perfect, but it seemed to 
be "close enough" for a street car.

While we're on the subject, is it possible to get a shielded heim joint?  It 
would be real nice to run these on the street on one end (rubber bushing on the 
other for NVH control), but I doubt they'd last long in the dirt and such.

You may want to see what they used on the racing Fiero's.  I know for sure that 
they had a 5-link, so it must have had a plunge joint.  Don't know about the 
torque values, but it was a pretty healthy V-6 (IMSA GTU, I recall).

Well, enough rambling.  Later all.

------
Bryan Blackwell bryan@mitre.org (703) 883 7329

'65 Corvair, '66 E-type, '69 Road Runner
"Yeah, it's nice, but it needs a little more power"
------

----------
Posted by: "Bryan Blackwell"  
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:44:01 1993
Subject: tire size chart (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5756
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
>  I've been scrounging for tire sizes lately, for a project I'm doing.
> Jeez, the tire makers don't seem to want to part with OD and section
> width information any more.  The list is now several hundred lines.  If
> there's any interest I can post it to the list.
>                                                                               
> 
> ----------
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
>  
> 
> 
> 
Yes, please. Go for it.       

Many tables of automotive information from this list and from
mopar@casbah are available by anonymous ftp from
	rosalyn.stat.uga.edu  (128.192.7.53)
	cd pub/text
tom root

----------
Posted by: emory!marie.stat.uga.edu!tom (Tom Root)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:48:44 1993
Subject: Pro-Jection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5757
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I just talked to an engineer at Holley.  They are currently working
on a computer for the projection that will be digital.  It can be
programed with a pc AND/OR with a few trim pots.  The system will use
a few more sensors including MAP for forced induction systems.

They expect about another year before its on the market.

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

[ *Sputter*!  A YEAR!  Whathehell are they doing, making their chips by hand?
If I'm lucky and have the time, I'll have my digital controller prototype
on my Projection in 2 weeks.  Three or 4 weeks for the snazzy user 
interface program on the PC and I'm done.  This ain't rocket science.  
Grrrr.

While I'm talking about the Projection, I flowed the injectors last 
night.  Each injector flows 89 lbs/hr on gasoline at 23 psi pressure.
Looks like those big Mazda injectors I reported on earlier earlier
would be good replacements.  Last time I checked, Holly wants almost
$200 for each injector!  Oh, while I was disassembling the throttle
body last night, I noticed the throttle shaft is already worn out.
This system's barely been on the car 2 years.  Trash!  JGD.]
----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:54:03 1993
Subject: Rebuilding Windsor
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5758
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I've got a 79 T-bird with a 351 Windsor in it.  I'm planning on replacing the
engine with a rebuilt unit.

I'm not interested in building a car that can get speeds near warp drive.

I am interested in getting at least what the car had originally.

My real goal is a car that will last 125,000 miles.

It will also need to be able to run on the cheapest unleaded and get better
mileage than it did originally.

With this in mind I am considering getting a Jacobs ignition system, heavy duty
water and oil pump, flat topped pistons to get my compression ratio between
8.1 and 9.1.

Does this all make sense?  I'm on a limited budget.  

Any advise will be appreciated.

----------
Posted by: emory!ccsua.ctstateu.edu!parys
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 11:58:13 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5759
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Howdy,

Mike Brattland made the fatal error of asking me about our T-bucket! ;-) ;-)
This car has some strange lineage...  when we got it, it was sort of
inconsistently-built:  the frame is really heavy-duty boxed steel and the
body appeared to be a super-lightweight fiberglass racing body.  (It is just
a bucket- no fenders, trunk, top, etc) It had an anemic 350 with a single
holley going through a TH350 and 12 bolt with 3.30's.  We figure that it
was built as a race car then turned into a street wuss by someone along the
line.  So much for that crap!  We stripped the car down to the frame.  The
front axle (straight axle with drums, reverse wishbone) got straightened and
all new clevis ends, bearings, brakes, etc.  The rear suspension got changed
over to an Alston coil-over setup with ladder-bars.  We kept the 12 bolt but
installed a set of Richmond Gear 4.11's on a factory posi unit.  

Onto the power train...  the engine started it's career as a GM crate LS-6
454.  The heads had a nice 5-angle valve job, ported, polished, and shaved.
We replaced the cam with a (I think) crane solid lift unit with somewhere 
around .720" lift.  We just hadtuh install a pete jackson "noisy" gear drive.
:-) :-) :-)  Making the spark is a unilite distributor and an MSD-6AL firing
through a Mallory coil.  On top is a tunnel ram with two center-discharge
660 Holleys (optionally "The Flying Toilet" alcohol injection!)  We also
have a NOS fogger kit and plate systems, either of which may end up on the
car...)

The engine drives a Linwood Craft "stubby" Powerglide through a 4500 RPM 
converter and TCI trans-brake.  On centerline wheels is a set of 34x18.5 
M&H Racemaster tires (biggest and softest they make, street legal).  
Did I mention the wheelbase is a dangerous 90"????  :-)
And yes, it does have a set of Alston wheelie bars out back.  A local 
tubing weenie made and welded in a custom roll cage for it.  And it does
have 5-point harnesses to keep you in place.

The engine is a nice chevy red; the frame got stripped to the metal, worked,
and received a slick coat of "Concept" Acrylic Enamel.  The body, after
five months of tedius working, has a killer Urethane "Hot Rod Red" (It is
_BRIGHT_) with a super-smooth clear.  Color-sanded and buffed; the paint
is perfect.  The interior is "bare essential meets 50's rod".  The floor
has a short black carpet, and the sides of the "bucket" have a very-slightly
padded diamond-tuck.  

Although this thing is intended as a street car, it should have no problem
reaching the low 9's (high 8's???) in street gear (1/4 mile); and I think
it could win some shows (but my friend is a super-anal perfectionist and
doesn't want to show it. :-(  )

As you can tell, I am excited about it, all we have left is the fuel system
and the wiring.  I just want to be well behind it, when it makes it's first
pass...   Sorry if this sounded too much like a Popular Shot Rodding Article.
I guess when you spend soooo much time and $$$$, you can't help but sound
like a game show host!
jC.

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 12:04:00 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5760
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Newsgroups: alt.hotrod
Path: vinny.cecer.army.mil!scott
From: scott@vinny.cecer.army.mil (Scott Buennemeyer)
Subject: cam
Message-ID: 
Keywords: cam, lifters
Sender: news@news.cecer.army.mil (Net.Noise owner)
Organization: US Army Corps of Engineers Construction Engineering Research Labs
Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1993 17:59:13 GMT
Lines: 31

I am replacing a cam in my '77 Pontiac TA and was looking at the Fireball II 
series of cam + lifters.  The price was right for me at this point in time 
($115).  Sure I would like to spend alot more for a top of the line cam +
lifter combo, but I am unfortunately limited in the funds department.

What I would like to know is, is this a good cam for the money?  A mechanic at 
a local performance engine shop said it was garbage and I just don't know alot
about it to know whether or not he is just wanting to sell me something else
for the extra cash.  He suggested a 268 comp (?) cam + lifter combo for $148
and just like the Fireball, I do not know which is better or worse, etc.

I would like something better than stock, but still have some of the qualities
of a stock cam, such as good idle.  I would like more horses, a better sound,
etc.  The gas mileage doesn't matter too much, since I've never known this car
to do any better than 15-18 mpg anyway.  It would be nice if it did improve
however.

Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!
Is there another cam combo out there for around $120 that would be better?

Thanx,

Scott Buennemeyer
US Army Corps of Engineers
Technical Assistance Center
e-mail: scott@mooky.cecer.army.mil
-- 
Scott Buennemeyer
US Army Corps of Engineers
Technical Assistance Center
Ph#: (217) 373-4420  ext. 302

----------
Posted by: "Net.Noise owner" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 12:09:12 1993
Subject: Fuel injectors and MSD
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5761
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



One complaint and some questions.

Complaint:  The price of fuel injectors has gone out of sight over the
	past six months!  I ask why and the answer is always "New pintle
	design that reduces deposits."  Damn, so much for dragging my feet
	when building projects.

So, where are people buying injectors these days?  I mean big ones, like
50 lb./hr. or so.  There are lots of used ones in the under 30 lb./hr.
category, maybe I should set my sights lower (no way), or use two per
cylinder (I would rather not, although my pulse times are real short
at idle and I may have to).

[At the local junkyards.  My program of offering free injector 
testing/cleaning is paying off.  I've tested OEM injectors all the way up to
200 lbs/hr (!)  As soon as I get the magazine in the mail (I pick it up
tomorrow I think. Yea!) I'll tabulate some part numbers, car make and models
and flow capacities and post them.

The injector situation is getting out of control.  The industry seems to
be in a feeding frenzy.  Talking about killing the golden goose.  BTW,
you have to really watch these guys.  They're quoting mass flows 
at widely varying pressures.  Jacking the pressure up can magically
convert a 40 lb/hr unit to a 50 lb/hr one.  Problem is, on all injectors
I've ever tested the opening and closing delay lengthens with increased
fuel pressure.  Jacking fuel pressure is counter-productive too because
the flow is proportional to the square root of the pressure.  The flow
rapidly flattens.  Example:  For a 40 lb/hr injector at 40 psi, the
following flows apply as computed on a little spreadsheet I whipped
together:

10 psi	20.02 lb/hr
20		28.32
30		34.68
40		40.00
50		44.77
60		49.05
70		52.98
80		56.63
90		60.07
100		63.32

JGD]

Another totally unrelated question about MSD ignition.  I want to use the
stock tach with the MSD on a late model Mustang.  The tach uses the
typical battery voltage sensed at the coil to determine RPM.  How to
I build something (rather than pay MSD $$$ for their module), to drop the
MSD voltage output, and manage the multiple sparks, so I can attach the
tach again?  Yeah, I know, buy a real tach....but I want to keep the stock
look (and its inaccuracy :-).

[Can't you just run the "tach" output from the MSD box to this terminal?
JGD]

Thanks.


	-- Dan

----------
Posted by: Dan Malek 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 15:12:29 1993
Subject: Re: tire size chart
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5762
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dave, I would like see your work. Thanks. Mike.

----------
Posted by: emory!rcsuna.gmr.com!mnolan (Michael Nolan E3/40)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 15:29:58 1993
Subject: 6 speed !
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5763
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



  Hi all

 Ive been looking around for 5 speeds to put behind my SB for a while
now ,there are lots of gear box shops that want to sell my a Supra
5 speed for the job but they can`t tell me what ratio`s they come in
(I waon`t be happy with anything less that a .7 5th gear) , anyway
since my mate is going to the US shortly and will be bringing back a 
fews parts and a car or i was wondering what is the avaliablity of
6 speed gear boxs????? and how much can i expect to pay???

i probally could get together about $1000 - $1500 for a gear box,
if the 6 speed idear turns out as a bad expensive joke, could 
anybody tell me what i would be up for if i wanted one of those 5 speed
camaro/mustang with the .63 overdrive.

IN NEED OF A SIX SPEED
Justin...

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 15:35:44 1993
Subject: Need to find some racing magazines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5764
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


When we were at Formula SAE, I talked to a couple of people about our
car, being as it was the only one there with side engine and fully
non-independant front and rear suspensions.  The one guy was from
a mag called Grassroots Performance(??) or something like that.  The
publisher of this magazine is Performance World Racing.  Anyway, I wondered
I anyone has ever seen or heard of this magazine, and if the July or
August issues has anything about F-SAE.

I also talked to some people from Race Car Engineering.  I cannot find
this magazine locally, so I was wondering if anyone gets it and if they
can tell me whether it has any F-SAE article.

Finally, can any of you .edu people out there send me a synopsis of the
final results?  We have either never received them, or they are being
hidden from me.  (You see, there is a bit of a rivalry here when a
$4,000 car can beat a $20,000 car two years in a row.)  I guess the
conspiracy theory is stretching it a bit.

Anyway, if anyone who reads either of these magazines sees a feature on
Formula SAE, please e-mail me.  Also, if anyone knows what this Grassroots
thing is about, I would like to know more.

Thanks in advance,

Thomas Brunner
tabg2553@uxa.cso.uiuc.edu
Car 9 Sidewinder Team Leader

----------
Posted by: "Thomas A. Brunner" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 15:40:14 1993
Subject: Re: header tube dia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5765
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>I'm in the planning process of building my own headers to fit the 
>oddball of parts making up my fatrat project. I've come across
>some 1 5/8" stainless tubing, would this be a good size to use
>on a big block Chevy? I was thinking of 1 7/8" but this smaller
>dia. came along with a price is right tag :-)
>
>

For small block Chevy use 1 1/2.  For big block use 1 5/8.  A crossover pipe would also be a good idea. 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Troy Kratzer                                           _
LAN Administrator                              _______| |_______
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                                               |  | ===|=== |  |
Any opinions expressed above are mine,         |  | | ||| | |  |
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                                               =================

----------
Posted by: emory!attmail.att.com!tkratzer
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 15:45:18 1993
Subject: Re: Pro-Jection
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5766
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


On 13 Jul 93 23:50, hotrod wrote:

>[ *Sputter*!  A YEAR!  Whathehell are they doing, making their chips by hand?
>If I'm lucky and have the time, I'll have my digital controller prototype
>on my Projection in 2 weeks.  Three or 4 weeks for the snazzy user 

Great!  What about the rest of us :-)!!!!

[The whole purpose of this exercize is a system anyone can build.  That
implies a series of articles in the mag :-)  JGD]

>While I'm talking about the Projection, I flowed the injectors last 
>night.  Each injector flows 89 lbs/hr on gasoline at 23 psi pressure.

Do you run with the pressure this high?

[Apparently.  I just twiddled the pressure as another tuning adjustment
until I got decent throttle response with the tuning pots off their stops.
I'd never measured the pressure before.  That's what the regulator
regulated at on the bench.  JGD]

>Looks like those big Mazda injectors I reported on earlier earlier
>would be good replacements.  Last time I checked, Holly wants almost

Would you use the mazda injectors in the throttlebody?

[ I'd drill the manifold under the throttle body and install them there.
The Z will be perfect for that application since the original manifold
was set up for two SU carbs.  JGD]

I took a look at the intake manifold (since it is off of the car).
The injectors spray onto what looks like a plastic disk with holes drilled
in it.  The disk is in the center of the intake runner.

Any idea what this is?  If I remember correctly the pictures John sent
me of the injectors firing, was a nice spray??

Later
Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 15:50:18 1993
Subject: Re: So long Davey...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5767
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Unfortunately, statistics are cruel when looking at the potential for 
nuggets at his flight experience level, especially when combined with
a certain confidence level plus a difficult confined landing, resulting
in the worst possible senario, tail rotor drive failure.  Normally from
a hover altitude like his case he should have walked away from it but
it sounds like it got away from him, which it can making it worse than
would be expected.  Judging by the wreckage, he may have taken a blade through 
the cockpit which would explain why one crawled out and the other didn't.
Watched him on Sunday give Mark Martin what for.  Can't believe he 
is gone.Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 16:03:58 1993
Subject: halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5768
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> :-) All Zs I know of have plunge shafts.  How much travel, I have no
-> idea. I'd guess between 1 and 2 inches.  JGD]

 I don't need much.  Sounds like a good deal, then.
                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 16:45:55 1993
Subject: Hot rods
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5769
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Jul 14, 12:06am, The Hotrod List wrote:
} Subject: No Subject Line
> Howdy,
> 
> and the wiring.  I just want to be well behind it, when it makes it's first
> pass...   Sorry if this sounded too much like a Popular Shot Rodding Article.
> I guess when you spend soooo much time and $$$$, you can't help but sound
> like a game show host!
> jC.
> 
> 
> 
>-- End of excerpt from The Hotrod List
Jim, are you running a shorty pickup bed or a turtle deck?  Sounds mean
in any case.  There are a couple like yours in our area, one in particular
running a big block MOPAR that is just plain nasty.

-- 
Mike

===========================================================================
Michael G. Brattland (brattlan@cyber.net) | 1923 Ford Roadster
600 Coldstream Drive                      | Ford 302 (Tri-Power  
El Cajon, CA 92020-7721                   | 4 spd, 9 inch )
619 444-1944 (H)                          | 1971 Porsche 911T
619 553-7814 (W)                          |  (Carbs & 5 spd, Orig Owner)
                                          | 1988 Ford F150 4x4
    "3 Deuces and a 4 speed!"             |  (302, 5 spd)
                                          | Ex-Jeepster Commando Owner
For Tech Info on Ford Small and Big Block Tri-Powers, e-mail me!
===========================================================================

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 17:47:06 1993
Subject: Re: 6 speed !
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5770
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

For the ratios you want and the money you want to spend, I would consider
the Tremac 5spd.Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 17:57:25 1993
Subject: Diacom on Saturn
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5771
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Can anybody tell me if the Diacom software currently runs on the 
Saturn / Corvette ZR1 ECU?  Also, can somebody please post the address
for Rinda, and perhaps their telephone #.  Thanks.

Edge of charter warning.

Just got a new Saturn the other day.  I'm looking into doing some mods,
particularly a bit of cleanup of the sand-cast intake.  ( Why did they 
not use foam cast, like the rest of the engine?  Grrr. )  Anybody have good 
ideas?  Extrude-hone is too much, I think, and I am not too fond of the 
bandsaw method.  There does not seem to be much in the way of aftermarket
or junk yard stock, either.  Factory racing team reports this to be a good
first step.  Thanks for any thoughts.

[I'm experimenting right now with electrolytic machining for opening up
my Zcar manifold.  This involves suspending a stainless steel wire cathode
in the runner, filling it with a suitable electrolyte and passing current
through the solution.  The rate of etch is dependent on the electrolyte
and the current density.  The finish depends mainly on the electrolyte.
I'm still searching for the optimum electrolyte.  Salt water works as
does sulfuric acid.  But I'm getting the finsh I think I should get.
There's a lot of literature on the subject if you want to play.  I think
I'm going to have to section the plenum before it's over.  No big deal
on the Z manifold.  The metal welds well.  JGD]

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dianippon Screen Enginerring of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 18:06:38 1993
Subject: Re: Need to find some racing magazines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5772
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> 
> When we were at Formula SAE, I talked to a couple of people about our
> car, being as it was the only one there with side engine and fully
> non-independant front and rear suspensions.  The one guy was from
> a mag called Grassroots Performance(??) or something like that.  The

Maybe "Grassroots Motorsports" ?  Most larger magazine stores carry it.  

If you can't find it locally, I'll see if I can dig up an old copy and
get the publisher, etc.

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 21:10:19 1993
Subject: Re: 6 speed !
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5773
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Summit Equipment Catalog lists the Richmond Gear 6 speeds for $2500 and
up, depending on configuration.  The Camaro/Mustang 5 speeds run around
$1500 new; I think I've seen rebuilts for around $1000 or so.

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 21:17:13 1993
Subject: Pro-Stock Look for Truck
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5774
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi all,

I have a '92 GMC Sierra that I want to give a Pro-stock look to. I
would like to have the leaf-springs replaced with a new suspension that
would fit either under or inside the frame (not notching the frame) so
that I can use the room between the frame and body for some Mickey T's.
Does any one know of a quality shop in the bay area that can handle this?

Thanks,
Tim

----------
Posted by: emory!corp.sun.com!Timothy.Alexander (Tim Alexander)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 21:21:36 1993
Subject: Acid Dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5775
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Does any know of a facility for acid dipping entire car bodies in
the Colorado region?

How much weight would this reduce, and does it remove all rust?

Thanks,

-Bob


-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 14 21:26:34 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line Comp Cams 268
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5776
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


> 
> I would like something better than stock, but still have some of the qualities
> of a stock cam, such as good idle.  I would like more horses, a better sound,
> etc.  The gas mileage doesn't matter too much, since I've never known this car
> to do any better than 15-18 mpg anyway.  It would be nice if it did improve
> however.
> 
> Any help or suggestions would be much appreciated!
> Is there another cam combo out there for around $120 that would be better?
> 
> Thanx,

I ran a Comp Cams 268H in my 350 Olds and liked it.
Slight lope at idle with good vacuum, made some good power, didn't hurt(or help)
mileage. Probably put one in the 350 Chevy I am building.
My tooooo cents.

----------
Posted by: emory!cray.com!rjm (Roger Mrdutt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:19:36 1993
Subject: Tire list
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5777
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I'd like to see that list, if you don't post it, could you send me a
-> copy? Thanks.

 I guess John won't mind.  Here it is:


               Tire Size Listing      93.07.11

Dave Williams  06/28/93  (some BFG, Falken, Dunlop)
Ron Melson     07/06/93  (Mickey Thompson, Pro Trac)
Dave Williams  07/08/93  (some Goodyear, BFG)
Dave Williams  07/11/93  (Goodyear gatorback sizes)

       contributions gratefully accepted and acknowledged


Goodyear VR/ZR Radials (Gatorbacks)
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
205  60  13  22.68  7.99   5.5   6.7   5.5-8.0    VR
205  60  14  23.70  7.99   5.5   6.3   5.5-8.0    VR
215  60  14  24.17  8.50   6.0   7.2   5.5-8.5    VR
235  60  14  25.12  9.25   6.5   7.6   6.0-9.0    VR
195  60  15  24.21  7.72   5.5   6.4   5.0-7.5    VR
205  60  15  24.69  7.99   5.5   6.3   5.5-8.0    VR
215  60  15  25.16  8.50   6.0   7.2   5.5-8.5    VR
225  60  15  25.63  8.78   6.0   7.3   6.0-9.0    VR
245  60  15  26.57  9.76   7.0   8.1   6.5-9.5    VR
255  60  15  27.05  10.04  7.0   8.3   6.5-10.0   VR
205  50  15  23.11  7.99   5.5   7.1   5.5-8.0    VR
225  50  15  23.90  8.78   6.0   8.1   6.0-9.0    VR
245  50  15  24.69  9.76   7.0   8.9   6.5-9.5    VR
265  50  15  25.47  10.51  7.5   9.7   7.0-10.0   VR
225  60  16  26.61  8.78   6.0   7.3   6.0-9.0    VR
225  60  16  26.61  8.78   6.0   7.3   6.0-9.0    ZR
205  55  16  24.88  7.99   5.5   7.3   5.5-7.5    VR
225  55  16  25.75  8.78   6.0   8.2   6.0-7.5    ZR
225  50  16  24.88  8.78   6.0   8.1   6.0-9.0    VR
245  50  16  25.67  9.76   7.0   8.9   6.5-9.5    VR
245  50  16  25.67  9.76   7.0   8.9   6.5-9.5    ZR
255  50  16  26.06  10.04  7.0   9.3   6.5-10.0   VR
255  50  16  26.06  10.04  7.0   9.3   6.5-10.0   ZR
245  45  17  26.67  9.57   8.0   8.6   8.0-9.5    ZR
225  50  16  24.88  8.78   6.0   8.2   6.0-8.0    ZR
245  45  17  26.65  9.57   8.0   9.0   8.0-9.5    ZR
245  40  17  24.72  9.57   8.0   8.4   7.5-9.5    ZR
275  40  17  25.67  10.75  9.0   9.5   8.5-10.0   ZR
285  35  17  24.88  11.42  10.0  10.0  9.0-11.0   ZR
315  35  17  25.67  12.60  11.0  10.6  10.0-12.0  ZR


Goodyear Eagle GS-A (OEM) "Imported Metric Radial"
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
235  45  17                                   Ferrari F40
335  35  17                                   Ferrari F40


BFG T/A All-Season
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
235  50  15                                       SR
255  50  15   26.9  9.9          8.2              SR
295  50  15                                       SR


Falken 05G
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
195  50  15  22.7   8.1                           VR
205  50  16  23.9   8.7          7.8              VR
225  50  16  24.9   9.3          8.3              VR
245  50  16  25.8   9.9          8.8              ZR
255  50  16  26.1   10.3         9.4              ZR


Dunlop D40/M2
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
225  60  15  25.7   9.3          7.6              ZR
225  50  16  24.0   9.3          8.4              ZR
245  50  16  25.8   10.0         9.4              ZR
255  50  16  26.2   10.4         9.4              ZR


Goodyear R1
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
245  50  15  24.7   9.75   7.0   8.2   7.0-9.5    VR
255  60  15  27.05  10.04  7.0   8.2   6.5-10.0   VR
245  45  16  24.6                                 VR
255  50  16  26.0                                 VR
275  40  17  25.7   10.5   9.0   10.0             VR


Goodyear Eagle S
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
265  50  15 25.5                 9.7   7.0-10.0


Mickey Thompson: Competitor Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
P225 50  15  23.9                7.5    6-9       B
P255 60  15  26.9                7.0    6.5-10    B
P295 50  15  26.8                8.5    7.5-11    B
P305 40  16  26.2                9.0    8-10      ZB


Mickey Thompson: Competitor II Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
195  50  15  22.6                5.75  5-7.5      VR
205  50  15  23.0                7.1   5.5-8      VR
205  55  16  24.9                6.3   5.5-8      VR
225  50  16  24.8                7.5   6-9        ZR


Mickey Thompson: Sportsman Pro Series
size         rim  dia    section/rim tread   rimwidths
26X10.50 LT  15   26.2   10.4        8       8-9
28X12.50 LT  15   27.9   13.1        10      8.5-11
29X12.50 LT  15   28.9   12.7        10      8.5-11
**** these sizes keep getting taller and larger until:
33X21.50 LT  15   32.5   19.1        16.5    15-18


Mickey Thompson: Indy Profile S/S Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
G60      14  25.3   10.4         8.0   6.5-9
G60      15  26.4   10.2         8.0   6-8
L60      15  28.0   11.6         9.5   7-10
N50      15  27.5   12.5         11.0  8-11


Mickey Thompson: Indy Profile Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
H50      15  26.0   12.3         10.0  7-10
N50      15  27.5   12.5         13.0  8-11


Pro-Trac: Racing Profile 60 Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
275L 60  14  27.36               9.75  7-10
275L 60  15  27.92               9.5   7-10


Pro-Trac: Racing Profile 50 Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
G50      15  25.98               9.45  7-10
N50      15  27.87               11.3  8-12


Pro-Trac Street Pro Soft Compound Series
size AR  rim dia    sect.  ckrim tread rimwidths  speed
G60      15  26.98               8.5   6.5-8
L60      15  27.86               9.5   7-10
N50      15  27.87               11.3  8-12
S445 50  15  32.25               15.9  10-16      X
S515 45  15  32.2                18.9  10-16      X


notes:
1) There are two TRX rim sizes - 365mm and 390mm
                                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:26:12 1993
Subject: Halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5778
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Sorry Dave, I can't help you in your quest (had a thought later, see
-> below).  I was hoping that you could enlighten me a bit about what is
-> bad with using the halfshafts as a link.  As you pointed out, Jags
-> and 'Vettes use them (Corvairs do too), and I was under the
-> impression that it was an ok, if not great, setup

 Sure.  I'm always ready to bore people with further explanations.
  The trouble with using the halfshaft as the upper link is that,
your range of possible geometries is severely limited.  The long lower
link also interferes with the exhaust system on street cars, and in my
case, would interfere with the rear chassis rails, which run underneath
the halfshafts instead of Z'ing up over.  Now, if you mounted the
second link on top things would be much better, but then you run into
chassis and space troubles.

 It's not *that* bad, it's physically strong, and it's cheap, but it's
not what I'm looking for.
                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:31:35 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5779
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> What I would like to know is, is this a good cam for the money?  A
-> mechanic at a local performance engine shop said it was garbage

 I don't know about "garbage", but Crane's modern street cams seem to be
awfully mild.  The Comp cam you mentioned also seemed pretty weak.
Pontiacs, unlike small Chevys, like lots of duration, but can't tolerate
much lift due to valve/piston interference, and the way the ports are
shaped, opening much past .400 doesn't get you a whole lot anyway.

 Sounds like what you need is to talk to some people who know Pontiacs,
like the guys at Schneider Racing Cams.  You're not talking about
lowball priced cams off the pallet from Taiwan here - Schneider will
custom-grind whatever you need, but their prices are still darned
reasonable.
                                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:36:47 1993
Subject: 6 speed !
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5780
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> now ,there are lots of gear box shops that want to sell my a Supra 5
-> speed for the job but they can`t tell me what ratio`s they come in

 Go down to the library and flip through a few back issues of Motor or
whatever.  They list the gear ratios.   What kind of longevity are we
talking about with the Supra box behind a small block?
                                                                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:41:06 1993
Subject: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5781
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The subject line pretty much covers it.  I am looking for possible
conversions for a GM "SM-465" as usually found in wreckers, and C-30
Chevys.  

This is a 3 speed with a super low that uses a regular mechanical clutch
linkage.  It is running behind a warmed over 350 in a Suburban and is 
used for towing.  I am concerned about two things, most 5 speed setups
are using hydraulic clutch systems and how much load will it handle long
term.  This is really a reliable unit, but the second to high gear split
is a killer.  Auxiliary transmissions/gear splitters don't seem to offer
as much as 5 (or more) properly spaced gears.

Anyone have any experience with this conversion?

----------
Posted by: emory!posms.aus.tx.us!rick (Rick Kirchhof)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:45:47 1993
Subject: Re: Need to find some racing magazines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5782
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The magazine is called Grassroots Motorsports, and is published six
times a year.  It's main emphasis is autocrossing, with a bit of other venues
thrown in.  If you can't find it locally, you could email to grm@autox.team.net
and ask for possible dealers near you, or sign up for a few issues.

As I recall, the latest issue, delivered a week or two back, did not have any
Formula SAE story.

mjb.

-- 
"With styling to cow the meanest 'street fighter', the Trans-Am Vitesse was an
attempt at a full-blooded racer for Triumph's mid-range saloons.  It was not a
major success."
                                                 mjb@triumph.cs.utah.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!triumph.cs.utah.edu!mjb (Mark J Bradakis)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 10:53:29 1993
Subject: ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List Charter
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5783
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

This is what will become a periodic posting of the charter of the hotrod
mailing list.  With all the new participants  we are picking up from
the alt.hotrod group, many have probably not seen this.  It is automatically
posted twice a month, on the 1st and on the 15th.

I wrote the charter in consultation with several people who helped get the
list going.  It has changed several times over the about 2 years the list
has been going.  If you think there needs to be another change, then
by all means bring it up for discussion.  My experience has been that 
most people don't seem to care a whole lot about the charter so 
I try to seek a consensus among those who do.

John
--------------------------------------------------------------------

The mailing list hotrod@dixie.com is chartered to provide a
forum for  people interested in high performance vehicles to
exchange ideas and  discuss topics of current interest. This
list is chartered as broadly as possible consistent with  noise
supression.  I believe it to be more constructive to list
unacceptable topics and behavior rather than trying to
ennumerate permissible behavior. 

Unacceptable topics:  

*	Discussions about stock street cars.
*	Discussions about magic elixirs such as Slick 50 with no technical basis.
*	Ford vs Chevy vs ... bashing.
*	Foreign or domestic car bashing.
*	Purely Cosmetic issues concerning stock street cars.  (Buyer's guide
	to fuzzy dice/air fresheners, for example.)
*	Usenet-style flaming of any sort.

Explicitly acceptable is any discussion regarding increasing the performance
of any vehicle.   "For Sale" and other commercial messages, tastefully
done, are permitted.  Please, no hype.

To subscribe to this list, send email to hotrod-request@dixie.com.

Include on the Subject: line the keyword "subscribe" and a return path to 
your site.  Example:  If you are at foo@bar.edu,

Subject: Subscribe foo@bar.edu

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----------
Posted by: hotrod@dixie.com
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 16:01:40 1993
Subject: Re: Hot rod bucket
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5784
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Mike Brattland says:
>Jim, are you running a shorty pickup bed or a turtle deck?  Sounds mean
>in any case.  There are a couple like yours in our area, one in particular
>running a big block MOPAR that is just plain nasty.

Neither!  With a 90" wheelbase, all there is is engine, bucket and tires!
:-) :-)  We have a 10 gallon Moon aluminum gas tank right behind the bucket,
and it sits just about right over the rear axle.  My friend and I were
trying to stay away from the "cookie cutter" T-bucket kits that doctors
and lawyers have built.  This thing reminds me of one of those "hot rod"
cars like in the gum packages you used to buy as a kid!  Anyone know where
I can get a skull shift knob???

We are still on the market for a pressure bypass regulator!  Anyone got any
info out there?  How about a number for Kenne Belle???

Cheers,
jC.   jca@fibercom.com

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 16:04:48 1993
Subject: Re: Wanted
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5785
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

--------------------------------

I am in need of a 4412 Holley 500 CFM 2 barrel carburetor for the Street
Stock race car I am building to run here in northern N.E..

1) Does anyone have one of these lying around they may want to sell?
2) Where are the best sources for a new or rebuilt? I have been quoted 200+
   by the local speed shop. I've seen these for 160 in the mags.

Once I get one of these in hand, what modifications would you suggest?
Keeping it "legal" of course!!!

				Thanks.....



----------
Posted by: John Saltamartine 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 16:21:14 1993
Subject: RE: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5786
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>The subject line pretty much covers it.  I am looking for possible
>conversions for a GM "SM-465" as usually found in wreckers, and C-30
>Chevys.  
>
>This is a 3 speed with a super low that uses a regular mechanical clutch
>linkage.  It is running behind a warmed over 350 in a Suburban and is 
>used for towing.  I am concerned about two things, most 5 speed setups
>are using hydraulic clutch systems and how much load will it handle long
>term.  This is really a reliable unit, but the second to high gear split
>is a killer.  Auxiliary transmissions/gear splitters don't seem to offer
>as much as 5 (or more) properly spaced gears.
>
>Anyone have any experience with this conversion?

Don't have experience with the conversion but I'm thinking about doing it 
myself.  I have a '75 Chevy blazer with the same transmission and a NP205 
transfer case.  Doug Nash/ Richmond Gear sells a 5 speed with the adapters 
for the transfer case (Jegs racings say $1540).  This gives you 3.27 1st 
gear.  For approx $200 you can buy optional gear ratios like 4.10 firstor 
even 4.40 first.

Since my blazer is relatively light (compared to heavy trucks)(4900lbs 
with German Sheppard aboard) I think the 5-speed would be great.  However 
the truck needs alot of work (rust) and I wondering whether its worth 
putting the money into it.  I slowly collecting parts ( 2nd complete 
blazer ) to start the restoration / modification.

BTW the trans you have has 6.00:1 low, 3.00:1 1st, 1.5:1 2nd and 1.0:1 
3rd. The Richmond gear one has 3.27:1 1st, 2.40 2nd ........ 1.0:1 5th.  
For light weight cars they recomend gears in the 2.73 - 3.05 range.  My 
truck has 3.07 (yes it eats clutches).

The DN 5 speed requires a 28 tooth clutch - not sure about the output 
shaft.

Strength should not be a problem.  The trans is made from aluminum with 
complete roller bearings on all surfaces (early ones didn't).

My hope is for better gear selections and better shifting - maybe make the 
blazer a daily driver again.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 16:33:44 1993
Subject: Re: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5787
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-->
-->I am replacing a cam in my '77 Pontiac TA and was looking at the Fireball II 
-->series of cam + lifters.  The price was right for me at this point in time 
-

I had the fireball II (the 28? one not the 30?) in my chev 350 with a th350
and 34? (sorry, my brain is not into numbers this morning) rear gears.
The idle was good and it sounded very nice.  The low end torque was really good
but because of my gearing the top end wasn't that great (but hey I live in 
Hawaii, where am I gonna go :) stoplight to stoplight was enough).


-->to do any better than 15-18 mpg anyway.  It would be nice if it did improve
-->
I got about 9 mpg but that was probably due to my heavy foot :) 
-->
-->Scott Buennemeyer


wes
					*sig under construction* 

----------
Posted by: Wes 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 17:41:25 1993
Subject: Re: Re: Wanted
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5788
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Summit, Jegs, or PAW will probably offer the best deal for a new one.
Summit is now offering free shipping too!Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 17:48:59 1993
Subject: Re: Re: Hot rod bucket
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5789
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Actually I have a beautiful original Beer Keg, 15 gallon type already
setup with gas cap I pulled off another roadster last fall which I have
held on to.  It reminds me of the very first one I ever say which used
precisely this setup. My good friend here in San Diego runs an all steel
T body with a nice spun aluminum tank.  You are quite right.  They are 
differenct and give that 60s look.Mike

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 21:24:36 1993
Subject: Re: Hot rod bucket
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5790
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>>Hot rod bucket
[...  How about a number for Kenne Belle???...]

Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)

Just a note from the Buick contingent ... Kenne-Bell used to be one of the
major suppliers of Buick go fast stuff, but in recent years it's been pretty
hard to get straight dope from K-B.  I've dealt with ol' slippery Jim Bell in
the past, and haven't had one good experience.  If you do decide to order
something, make sure you order C.O.D., otherwise your credit card will be
charged and no goods for MONTHS.  No matter how much bitchin' you do.  

I'm not the only one who is finding other more reliable suppliers (such as ATR,
Connely, Buick 1, Poston, etc.)  ... talk to most any hard core Buick fan and
they'll tell you a tale of woe when dealing with K-B.

Anyway, that said, here's a couple of numbers for suppliers of adjustable fuel
regulators (and other goodies) that the Turbo Buick guys use:

Kenne-Bell
* Contact Jim or Jody Bell
(714) 941-6646

Applied Technologies & Research (ATR)
* Contact Phil Griffith
* Supplier of all sorts of goodies for Turbo Regals/Syclones/Typhoons
   and SS454 pickups
(916) 783-9700

Conley's Performance Plus
*  Contact Lawrence or Janice Conley
*  Owns "Tweaked", the 9.40 Turbo Regal
    you see in the mags at the "Shootouts"
(713) 540-FAST

Duttwieller Performance
(???) ???-????  (I'll get the number from home)
*  Contact Kenny Duttweiller
*  Owns and has helped build a couple 8.50 Turbo Regals
*  Built the 200 MPH Mustang in Car Craft


Ken Mosher
Buick GN: ".... can you say *BOOST*?  I knew you could. .... "


----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 21:28:58 1993
Subject: What year is this?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5791
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have a Small Block chevy engine in an inoperative '37 chevy
Coupe.  It was sold to me as a 64 corvette 327.  Information
which I took with a boulder of salt.  The casting numbers
on the block are 3782870.  The block is in great condition
and I'd like to rebuild it.  Can anyone tell me what year
block this is?
The local GM dealers have been completely unhelpfull with
 information about casting numbers.

Thanks for your help.

----------
Posted by: emory!nad.3com.com!lloydo
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 22:30:59 1993
Subject: chassis rigidity
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5792
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I have a number of books which cover automobile chassis design.  Most
of 'em seem to get bogged down in details.  Most of the books assume the
greatest chassis load is single-wheel bump.  This turns out to be true
even for fairly high powered cars.  Going back to the basics, we have:

        torqued section:  front motor mounts to differential mount
                          (about 90")

        torque: round it up to 500 ft-lb from the engine, multiplied
                by 3 for first gear, for 1500 ft-lb for all-out first
                gear holeshots, gumballs, and no tire slip

        therefore: I need to decide how much deflection can be
                   tolerated, then use 1500 ft-lb over 90" to plug into
                   the formulas.

                   this load would be applied front-to-back, clockwise;
                   ie, engine torque only twists the chassis one way,
                   not the other


  Now, assuming worst-case conditions for cornering, we could put all
2500 pounds of the vehicle weight on one front tire.

        torqued section: centerline of front suspension, centerline of
                         rear suspension.  (96")

        torque:  2500 pounds, applied from the loaded front spring perch
                 to the rear roll center, giving approximately a 25"
                 lever arm from the centerline of the car to the front
                 spring perch.


 Fortunately (or unfortunately) the max suspension load is not possible
with maximum acceleration load, so deflection from the drivetrain could
be safely ignored.


 This is all ballpark stuff, but it gives an idea of what the loads are.
So, how stiff does the chassis have to be?  There seems to be a lot of
variance on that.  Some builders report in foot-pounds per inch of
deflection, others in foot-pounds per degree.  The foot-pounds per
degree seems a little more useful, as the "inch" measurement is
dependent on where your inch comes from.
                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 22:41:34 1993
Subject: RE: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5793
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>The DN 5 speed requires a 28 tooth clutch - not sure about the output 
>shaft.


It's input takes the 28 tooth fine spline clutch, 
while the output shaft is the same as a turbo 400 yoke.

>Strength should not be a problem.  The trans is made from aluminum with 
>complete roller bearings on all surfaces (early ones didn't).

I never had any problems with the DN transmission. I HIGHLY recommend it to 
anyone looking for an aftermarket standard transmission. The shift pattern is 
very tight (less than 1/2" throw with a long shifter) and you don't miss
ANY shifts, no matter how extreme...

Manufacturer's claim is it will stand up to better than 800+ hp.
I had one of these transmissions behind a 500 HP smallblock. I went through
5 m21 rock-crusher transmissions which prompted the change to the DN. 

That stopped the tranny case splitting. I then replaced the rear end guts
on the 12 bolt (ring and pinion, carrier, bearings) 3 times soon afterwards
due to good traction and big slicks... The rear was now the weak link. It was
also a totally stock car, weighing 3600+ lbs.(when it didn't break it would run
high 11's, low 12's).

But the trany worked fine. It was taken out of the camaro and is now in a 
tubbed pro-street 66 nova.... That one hasn't broken anything yet...

-dan a.

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 15 22:48:06 1993
Subject: Z-car parts questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5794
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  The local (two towns over) you-pull-it junkyard has a wad of Datsun Zs
in stock.  They have several ZXs, which have semi-trailing arms in back,
and a couple of early Zs, including one 240 with drum brakes, which
either has a posi or something's wrong in the diff or trans.

 Question 1: how do I tell if the car has a posi?  Clearing the sticker
             bushes, jacking, blocking, and chasing off mud daubers to
             do the old see-if-it-turns test would be a real pain.  If
             all posis had a special VIN code, or a big tag saying they
             took posi lube only, or other simple ID, then it'd justify
             all the work to dig one out to test.  Failing any simple
             way, what are the chances of coming across one from a
             random sampling?  Would it be more likely in a ZX than a Z?

[No Z I'm aware of came from the factory with a posi.  Pre-74 had a smaller
R-180, later models had the R-200.  I'm not sure about the 80s ZXs.  JGD]

 Question 2: I'm also looking for something in the order of a 3.70 gear
             ratio.  Any quick way to tell?  How much would a set of
             3.70-ish gears cost new?

[My 75 service manual says it came with a 3.545:1 rear end.  Ben Millspaugh's
book "Z-car - A legend in its own time" says the 89 300zx had a 4.083:1
while the 90 has a 3.692:1 rear end.  My 77 manual says they also all had
3.545:1 rear ends though it looks like the automatic got the smaller R-180 
carrier.  Other ratios are available from Nissan Motorsports.  JGD]

 Question 3: given two equivalent rear ends, is there any reason to
             choose a ZX diff over a Z, or vice versa?

[don't think so.  JGD]

 Question 4: is there any difference between Z and ZX halfshafts?  Are
             there any extra-strong parts?  The ones I could see all
             looked pretty much the same.

 Question 5: is it worthwhile to use the Datsun rear discs, or should I
             just go ahead and make some hats to use aftermarket parts?

[Well the Datsun brakes work well and get good pad life.  Guess it just 
depends on how much adapting you'd have to do to the Datsun parts.  JGD]

 Any answers, comments, or anecdotes gratefully accepted.

 [You might want to give Ron Johnson, manager of Nissan Motorsports
 a call at 310 719 5041.  Ron's a nice guy and loves to talk.  He can
 help you with any details.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 17:25:39 1993
Subject: Re: Hot rod bucket
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5795
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> cars like in the gum packages you used to buy as a kid!  Anyone know where
> I can get a skull shift knob???
> 
> Cheers,
> jC.   jca@fibercom.com
> 
A man after my own heart!  If you are looking for neat old-style rod and
custom accessories try:

Wayne B. Mount  "King of Dice"
1611 Westbury Drive
Richmond, VA 23229
(804)282-0270
(800)231-DICE

He sells bone colored skull shift knobs for $15.95.  

Also dice knobs (of course), Marilyn Monroe & James Dean steering wheel
"necker knobs", hula dolls, curb feelers, a great selection of
custom fender skirts, and lots more.

Every page in his catalog will bring a smile to your face if you dig 
the fifties.


--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 17:39:30 1993
Subject: Buick stuff (was Hot rod bucket)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5796
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> 
> I'm not the only one who is finding other more reliable suppliers 
> (such as ATR,
> Connely, Buick 1, Poston, etc.)  ... talk to most any hard core Buick fan and
> 
> Ken Mosher
> Buick GN: ".... can you say *BOOST*?  I knew you could. .... "

Do you happen to know if they also deal with older Buick engines such as
the aluminum block 300 or Wildcat 465?

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 17:46:50 1993
Subject: Re: What year is this?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5797
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <60xx6q=@dixie.com> you write:
|> 
|> I have a Small Block chevy engine in an inoperative '37 chevy
|> Coupe.  It was sold to me as a 64 corvette 327.  Information
|> which I took with a boulder of salt.  The casting numbers
|> on the block are 3782870.  The block is in great condition
|> and I'd like to rebuild it.  Can anyone tell me what year
|> block this is?

The 870 casting was used from 1962 thru 1965. More specific
information can be found on the front of the block on the
passenger side. The serial number will tell you which engine
it is and the year of manufacture.

-- 
Marty Baade
NYNEX Science and Technology
Expert Systems Laboratory
Phone: (914) 644-2897
marty@nynexst.com
"A Dropped Tool Lands Where It Can Cause The Most Damage" 
 -- The Law Of Selective Gravitation

----------
Posted by: emory!nynexst.com!marty (Marty Baade)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 17:54:37 1993
Subject: Re:  What year is this?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5798
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

lloydo sez:

>I have a Small Block chevy engine in an inoperative '37 chevy
>Coupe.  It was sold to me as a 64 corvette 327.  Information
>which I took with a boulder of salt.  The casting numbers
>on the block are 3782870.  The block is in great condition
>and I'd like to rebuild it.  Can anyone tell me what year
>block this is?
>The local GM dealers have been completely unhelpfull with
> information about casting numbers.
>
>Thanks for your help.

The casting number indicates that the block could have been a Corvette
engine between the years of '62-'65, it could have also been a truck block.
More important is the stamping on the 'pad' in front of the right cylinder
head -- it will indicate the manufacturing location (F=Flint), the month code,
day-of-month code, VIN number, and the all-important 2-letter suffix code.
Please send along the info on the pad and I should be able to tell you more
about the engine..

Phil Gunsul - '64 F.I. Corvette
            - '31 Model A Tudor (blown small-block :^)

----------
Posted by: emory!mgweed.att.com!prg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 18:00:05 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-27*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5799
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, and my favorite bartender. PLEASE confirm dates and times 
with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

TOYOTA ATLANTIC, MILWAUKEE (T)        7/16     2:00-3:00PM      ESPN
This Week In NASCAR, Pocono (T)       7/16     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Hydroplane Racing                     7/17     3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
The Glory Days                        7/17     4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, WATKINS GLEN (T)     7/17     5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Bob Nordskog)7/17     9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic(power windows/locks7/17     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
POCONO SPORTSMAN 150, LONG POND (L)   7/17    11:00AM-12:30PM   HTS*
ARCA 150, LONG POND (L)               7/17     1:00-4:00PM      TBS
FIREHAWK/SUPERCAR SERIES, ATLANTA (T) 7/17     1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Truckin' USA                          7/17     2:00-2:30PM      TNN
Wild About Wheels                     7/17     2:00-2:30PM      DISC
NHRA Today                            7/17     2:30-3:00PM      TNN
HYDROPLANES, MADISON (T)              7/17     3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/17     3:00-3:30PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, DOVER (T)                   7/17     3:30-5:00PM      TNN
IMSA GTP, ELKART LAKE (T)             7/17     4:00-6:00PM      ESPN
F ATLANTIC, TORONTO (?)               7/17     5:00-6:30PM      TSN
MotorWeek '93 (Supra & Diamante)      7/17     5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
IHRA SPORTSMAN SERIES, LEICESTER (T)  7/17     6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
Supercross Highlights                 7/17     6:30-7:00PM      ESPN
POCONO SPORTSMAN 150, LONG POND (SD)  7/17     7:00-8:30PM      HTS*
SpeedWeek                             7/17     7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
USAC SPRINTS, INDIANAPOLIS (L)        7/17     8:00-11:00PM     ESPN
ASA, SALEM, NC (L)                    7/17     8:30-11:00PM     HTS*
POCONO SPORTSMAN 150, LONG POND (T)   7/18     12:00-1:30AM     HTS*
ASA, SALEM, NC (T)                    7/18     1:30-4:00AM      HTS*
Checkered Flag (IndyCars @ Cleveland) 7/18     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             7/18     2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             7/18     3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
IMSA GTP, ELKART LAKE (T)             7/18     3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Silverstone)     7/18     6:00-6:30AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA                          7/18     9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Motor Sports Hour                     7/18     9:30-10:30AM     HTS*
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/18     9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Larry Morgan)                7/18     10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today                            7/18     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Cycle World                           7/18     10:30-11:30AM    HTS*
Inside Winston Cup                    7/18     11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/18    11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Winston Cup Weekly                    7/18    11:30AM-12:00PM   HTS*
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (L)               7/18     1:00-5:05PM      TBS
INDYCAR, TORONTO (L) ?                7/18     1:30-3:30PM      CBC
Swamp Buggies, Naples (T)             7/18     2:00-3:25PM      TNN
RaceDay Update (L)                    7/18     3:25-3:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today                            7/18     3:30-4:00PM      TNN
Secrets Of Speed (the autobahn)       7/18     3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, TORONTO (SD)                 7/18     4:00-6:00PM      ABC
INDY LIGHTS, PORTLAND (T)             7/18     4:00-4:30PM      ESPN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/18     4:00-4:30PM      TNN
SCCA RACING, SEARS POINT (T)          7/18     4:30-5:30PM      ESPN
Winners (Larry Morgan)                7/18     4:30-5:00PM      TNN
Auto Racing?                          7/18     5:30-6:30PM      HTS*
Shadetree Mechanic(power windows/locks7/18     6:30-7:00PM      TNN
RaceDay Update (L)                    7/18     7:00-7:05PM      TNN
NHRA, WESTERN AUTO NATIONALS,TOPEKA(T)7/18     7:05-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/18     8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine                    7/18     11:00-11:30PM    TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/18    11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA                          7/19     12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Bob Nordskog)7/19     12:30-1:00AM     TNN
USAC SPRINTS, INDIANAPOLIS (T)        7/19     3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
ASA, SALEM, NC (T)                    7/19     12:00-2:30PM     HTS*
HYDROPLANES, MADISON (T)              7/19     1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
OPBRA, POWERBOAT RACING, ERIE (T)     7/19     3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
Monster Trucks                        7/19     3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/19    11:30PM-1:25AM    ENC
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING,SALT LAKE CITY(T)7/20     12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/20     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
SCCA RACING, DES MOINES (T)           7/20     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
  (^ This was probably canceled due to flooding. Bill)
SODA, OFF-ROAD RACING, ANTIGO (T)     7/20     3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
OPBRA, POWERBOAT RACING, ERIE (T)     7/20     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/20     3:00-4:55PM      ENC
The Glory Days                        7/20     3:00-3:30PM      ESPN
Monster Trucks                        7/20     3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/21     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
This Week On Pit Road                 7/21     7:30-8:00PM      HTS*
WINSTON CUP, POCONO (T)               7/21     8:00-11:00PM     HTS*
OPBRA, POWERBOAT RACING, ERIE (T)     7/22     1:00-2:00AM      HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/22     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
IHRA SPORTSMAN SERIES, LEICESTER (T)  7/22     3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/22     3:30-4:00AM      MTV
Checkered Flag (IndyCars @ Cleveland) 7/22     4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
OPBRA, POWERBOAT RACING, ERIE (T)     7/22     12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Cycle World                           7/22     1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/22     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                7/22     3:00-3:30PM      HTS*
DODGE/SHELBY PRO SERIES, DES MOINES(T)7/22     7:30-8:30PM      HTS*
  (^ This was probably canceled due to flooding. Bill)
MotorWeek '93 (Supra & Diamante)      7/22     8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Cycle World                           7/22     8:30-9:30PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/22     9:30-10:30PM     HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                7/22     10:30-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR, Talladega (L)    7/22    11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
MOTORCYCLE GRAND PRIX, HOLLAND (T)    7/23     12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/23     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             7/23     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
M.T. OFF-ROAD RACING,SALT LAKE CITY(T)7/23     3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/23     1:30-3:25PM      ENC
This Week In NASCAR, Talladega (T)    7/23     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld                             7/23     6:00-6:30PM      ESPN

		  ----------COMING EVENTS---------- 

BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (?)               7/24     TBA              TBA
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        7/24     8:00PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (L)    7/25     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            7/25     12:15PM          CBS
PIKES PEAK (T)                        7/25     TBA              ESPN
IMSA, LAGUNA SECA (?)                 7/25     TBA              TBA
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (SD)   7/25    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
S.N.THUNDER (L)                       7/31     8:00PM           ESPN
SCCA TRANS-AM, SEARS POINT (T)        8/1      12:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 8/1      2:00-5:00PM      ABC
ASA, HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY,TOPEKA (L)8/1      2:00-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (SD)                8/1     11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
IMSA GTP, PORTLAND (T)                8/2      12:00AM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 8/2      2:30AM           TSN
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (T)            8/7      8:00-10:00PM     ESPN
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       8/7      10:00PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         8/8      1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   8/8      3:30-5:30PM   ESPN,TSN
F ATLANTIC, NEW HAMPSHIRE (T)         8/9      7:30PM           TSN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (L)                8/14     1:00PM           ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        8/14     8:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  8/14    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      8/15     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             8/15     12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA NATIONALS, SONOMA (T)            8/15     3:30PM           ESPN
F ATLANTIC, TROIS RIVIERES (L)        8/15     5:00PM           TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     8/15    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
BUSCH GN, NEW HAMPSHIRE (?)           8/22     TBA              TBA
NHRA NATIONALS, SEATTLE (T)           8/22     1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (L)             8/22     2:00-4:30PM   ESPN,TSN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (SD)            8/22    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek '93" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public TV stations around the US. If interested, 
please check the listings for your local public TV
station(s).  [Also please remember to send them a couple $'s if you
like the show. Those folks will always appreciate the help.]

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 18:09:32 1993
Subject: Re: Hot rod bucket
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5800
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>Just a note from the Buick contingent ... Kenne-Bell used to be one of the
>major suppliers of Buick go fast stuff, but in recent years it's been pretty
>hard to get straight dope from K-B.  I've dealt with ol' slippery Jim Bell in
>the past, and haven't had one good experience.  If you do decide to order
>something, make sure you order C.O.D., otherwise your credit card will be
>charged and no goods for MONTHS.  No matter how much bitchin' you do.  

Well he starting to sell mustang parts - Still have heard horrors about
his (their?) responsiveness to customers (esp.  Ford parts).  Guess he's
giving to you GN / buick people as well.  How bout this one: Orders 10
different items - each shipped separately (as they arrived at the
warehouse) - each charged a separate handling fee.  This could add up.
I haven't ordered from them personally but the quote I got from someone
who did was "Order your parts now because he didn't think they'll be in
business too much longer [due to their ordering practices]" When he did
get his parts he was pleased with the quality - but really has nothing
to compare to.

>I'm not the only one who is finding other more reliable suppliers (such as ATR,
>Connely, Buick 1, Poston, etc.)  ... talk to most any hard core Buick fan and
>they'll tell you a tale of woe when dealing with K-B.

Ditto.  I don't mean to malign or falsely accuse anyone of anything but
if K-B is listening perhaps he can up his responsiveness.

When you place an order with a company you should agree on a shipment
date.  When you pay with a credit card you have the full force of MC or
Visa etc behind you.  The proper proceedure would be to cancel the order
or have the Credit card company do the bitching for you (thats why they
get 4% + your $20 a year YMMV)

Dirk

These are my opinions - If you don't like them - too bad.

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 18:14:01 1993
Subject: RE: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5801
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>>The DN 5 speed requires a 28 tooth clutch - not sure about the output 
>>shaft.


>Manufacturer's claim is it will stand up to better than 800+ hp.
>I had one of these transmissions behind a 500 HP smallblock. I went through
>5 m21 rock-crusher transmissions which prompted the change to the DN. 

Not to nit pick but FYI only M22's are true rock crushers - ie straight
cut gears that make all kinds of noise as the air/oil slips between the
gears.  Sort of like the DN Race 5speed.

BTW Do you know if the race 5-speed is street-able.  Does it have
syncros or is itmade for clutchless shifts?

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 18:18:01 1993
Subject: Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5802
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


From: paulr@lsid.hp.com (Paul Richer)
Subject: Holley Vacuum Lines
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 1993 17:37:59 GMT

I've got an after market 600 CFM Holley (model 1850) that I am putting on
a 350 Chevy.  My question concerns the vacuum lines that hook up to the
carburetor.  There are 3 vacuum ports on the carb.  Anyone know which
goes where?  Thanks.

1) - fitting located on the carb base, in front, under front bowl, angled
     toward choke side of carb.

2) - fitting located on choke side, just behind front bowl, up high.

3) - fitting located on carb base, choke side, toward rear, larger size (1/4")
     

--


       ________
      /______ /    
            //
        __ //_          Paul Richer
       /__ __/          paulr@lsid.hp.com
         //             Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
        //______
       /_______/




----------
Posted by: Paul A. Richer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 18:23:03 1993
Subject: 1970 Nova with HEI?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5803
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hi to all,

As the subject says, can I fit a late GM HEI unit in a 1970 Nova
with a mouse V8 without any mod to the firewall?  (I'm not too
concerened with electricals since I have the complete electrical
schematics of 70 Nova and I can rewire to get it work.)     

Also, can I use a late 10 bolt posi that used to be on '76 Nova
on '70 Nova?  

I know leaf spring have to be changed to multi-leaf, so can I 
use off the '76? 

Thanks in advance.

e-mail kts@csulb.edu

      

----------
Posted by: Ken Sumida 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 18:27:07 1993
Subject: Haltech computers.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5804
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



Has anybody out there heard anything good about haltech computers????

  From what i`ve heard they are the only system to use!

[Haltech is a good injection controller system.  No ignition control.
Cost is about $800  JGD]

What i want to know is can you get a sequetially firing system for the
GM TPI from haltech??? has it a good range of tuning variables for all
sorts of aplications(racing,economy,etc).
and the big question...how much???

There is a company that operates in australia called MOTECH, they make
fully ajustable systems for all types of injection setups,
prices start at $1200 for a fuel control system
                $1800 for fuel and spark control
                $2500 for fuel&spark sequentially firing systems.
                $4500 for group A racing fuel spark control
I think there is other systems avaliable in a higher price range but
these seem to make my wallet shrink enough ;-)

How dose the Haltech compare to this?
Justin...

[That certainly sounds like the Motes system being imported here from 
Australia.  This system is a complete engine management system including
spark control.  According to their rep I talked to last November, the
whole thing costs under $1k.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 21:00:53 1993
Subject: Re: Z-car parts questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5805
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List wrote:
> 
> [No Z I'm aware of came from the factory with a posi.  Pre-74 had a smaller
> R-180, later models had the R-200.  I'm not sure about the 80s ZXs.  JGD]

When the 2.8 liter went to a lowly 132hp in the ZX ('79) they went back
to the R180.

>  Question 3: given two equivalent rear ends, is there any reason to
>              choose a ZX diff over a Z, or vice versa?
> 
> [don't think so.  JGD]

Unless you want (need? probably not) the brute strength of the R200.

>  Question 4: is there any difference between Z and ZX halfshafts?  Are
>              there any extra-strong parts?  The ones I could see all
>              looked pretty much the same.

They're the same, at least on the early ZX. Not sure about late models.

>  Question 5: is it worthwhile to use the Datsun rear discs, or should I
>              just go ahead and make some hats to use aftermarket parts?

The hard part about putting ZX disks on a 24O is getting the damn stub
axle nut off without f@cking the whole thing up.  You can't heat it,
and your average 1/2" drive 250ft/lb impact wrench is worthless.  My
uncle is a snap-on tool dealer, so I used his 1" industrial job.
I had a 15" wheel and tire bolted onto the stub, stood on the tire over
the nut with the impact, and it spun me around for about 5 secs while
the thing loosened (can U say tight? I knewthatchacould :)
You then take of the backing plate, throw on the ZX disk, and weld up
the caliper on a homemade bracket.

Getting the emergency brakes to work is another thing.  I just used
a line-loc going to the rear brakes, but then again, it fits right
next to the brake proportioning valve :-)

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

----------
Posted by: David Johnson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 16 21:59:16 1993
Subject: 1939 Pontiac for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5806
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

yep a 1939 Pontiac 2 door coupe
no engine or trans
solid body and glass
$4000.00
e-mail me if interested (I own it)
it's in a barn about 70 miles from Toronto Canada

andy_turudic.tri@trigate.sbc.com

----------
Posted by: emory!trigate.sbc.com!andy_turudic.tri (andy turudic)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 17 08:53:28 1993
Subject: Re: Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5807
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I've got an after market 600 CFM Holley (model 1850) that I am putting on
>a 350 Chevy.  My question concerns the vacuum lines that hook up to the
>carburetor.  There are 3 vacuum ports on the carb.  Anyone know which
>goes where?  Thanks.

>1) - fitting located on the carb base, in front, under front bowl, angled
>     toward choke side of carb.

This is hooked to manifold vacuum. I use it for the vacuum modulator on my
automatic transmission.

>2) - fitting located on choke side, just behind front bowl, up high.

This is Ported Vacuum from just above the throttle plates. It is generally
used for vacuum advance lines to the distributor. On late model cars there
may be several thermal or other types of vacuum switches on the way to the
distributor.

>3) - fitting located on carb base, choke side, toward rear, larger size (1/4")
>     

This is manifold vacuum and is intended for use on the Positive Crankcasse 
Ventilation system (PCV).

>----------
>Posted by: Paul A. Richer 

Good Luck!
K Martinez
lps@rahul.net

----------
Posted by: Kevin Martinez 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 17 23:38:44 1993
Subject: help: sparks plugs hot/cold
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5808
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hello ..

I was looking thru my owners manual ( '90 miata) and I noticed they had
3 different plugs listed for my car ..  as it turns out ..  the extremes
are hot or cold plugs..  Please explain the difference and when you
should use a hot plug or a cold plug

[The cold plug would be approrpiate for extended wide open throttle.
By extended I mean several miles at a time.  The hot plug would be for
conditions such as very extended idling where fouling might be a problem.
The middle plug is for average service.  JGD]

AND ..

When i race the car (auto crossing) ...  should i use a different plug
then what i would use when i am driving on the street ?

I don't mind changing the plugs when I get to the "event" and then
changing again before i drive home ..  IF one plug type is better then
another for tre particular use...  Some one told me that : If your plug
electrodes are 'white' then you need a colder plug and If they are
black/carbon-coated ..  then I should use a hotter plug ..  I have NO
idea ...

[I wouldn't bother changing plugs in a (mostly) stock engine.  Modern
plugs have a fairly wide heat range and coupled with closed loop engine
management, you're unlikely to have any fouling problems.  You really
can't read much from plug color with unleaded gas.  IT just doesn't color
the plug like leaded fuel used to.  JGD]


Please post here  OR write to me directly ..
 James D. Wynn
jjnjw@clockwise.att.com

thanks in advance ...

----------
Posted by: emory!clockwise.att.com!jjnjw
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 17 23:43:27 1993
Subject: RE: Buick Parts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5809
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>When he did get his parts he was pleased with the quality - but really >has
nothing to compare to.

I wouldn't order a cam from them. It is widely known that they are not too
careful which cam they stick in which box. Plus for a while, they were having a
problem with inferior material being used in their grinds. Many people found
flattened lobes after only a short time. Bell replaced them all, but then who
wants to do the labor twice.

Ken's advice about COD is good. It also may be the only way to get parts from
him now that MC and Visa yanked their accounts with him.

Ron

----------
Posted by: "Mellum Ron" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 17 23:47:33 1993
Subject: RE: Buick stuff (was Hot rod bucket)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5810
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>Do you happen to know if they also deal with older Buick engines such >as the
aluminum block 300 or Wildcat 465?

Poston and Buick 1 wil probably carry stuff for the Wildcat 465. I don't have
Poston Enterprise's number/address here (there someplace in Alabama, but Buick
1 can be reached at

Buick 1
Route 10, Box 696
Valdosta GA 31601

Order Line: (912)242-5353
Tech Line: (912)242-0691

BTW, wasn't the Wildcat 465 the 430 cid rated at 465 ft-lbs, hence the 465
name? Likewise the Wildcat 445.

Ron

----------
Posted by: "Mellum Ron" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul 18 11:37:26 1993
Subject: Haltech computers.
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5811
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


->               $2500 for fuel&spark sequentially firing systems.
...
-> spark control.  According to their rep I talked to last November, the
-> whole thing costs under $1k.  JGD]

 According to my rep in Australia, the exchange rate is around A$1.75
to US$1.00.  This varies according to which way you're moving your
money, of course.
                                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul 18 11:41:32 1993
Subject: Re: Z-car parts questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5812
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Unless you want (need? probably not) the brute strength of the R200.

 Torque should be between 425 and 450 ft-lb, judging by some very
similar engines on the dyno.  Using the 3.03 first gear in the TH700,
that's near 1500 ft-lb going into the diff.


-> The hard part about putting ZX disks on a 24O is getting the damn
-> stub axle nut off without f@cking the whole thing up.  You can't heat

 Why does the stub axle nut have to come off?  The rotor is a single
piece solid rotor and offset hat that slips over the wheel flange.  Does
the stub axle have to come out to put on the caliper bracket?
                                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul 18 11:45:56 1993
Subject: RE: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5813
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Not to nit pick but FYI only M22's are true rock crushers - ie
-> straight cut gears that make all kinds of noise as the air/oil slips
-> between the gears.  Sort of like the DN Race 5speed.

 M22s have a lower helix angle than M21s, but they're not straight cut.
Unless the transmission is worn or damaged, it's no noisier than an M21.

 True straight-cut gears are noisy because only one tooth is in contact
with one other tooth at a time.  These teeth smack together and pop
apart due to minor machining variations and tooth flex.  You can
adjust this by playing with the tooth profile.  The requirements for a
strong gear and a quiet gear are mostly incompatible, so most
manufacturers err to the side of strength, because if they were that
interested in quiet, they'd probably just use a helically cut gear in
the first place.
                                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul 18 16:39:12 1993
Subject: Motech
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5814
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> ->               $2500 for fuel&spark sequentially firing systems.
> ...
> -> spark control.  According to their rep I talked to last November, the
> -> whole thing costs under $1k.  JGD]

      Is this a sequentially firing system Dave???

> 
>  According to my rep in Australia, the exchange rate is around A$1.75
> to US$1.00.  This varies according to which way you're moving your
> money, of course.
> Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)


I may have high prices because I`m dealing with an agent not Motech
directally..........Did you call the Motech(or whatever) somthing else
like Moto????? Have i even got the name right???

[The US distributor calls it Motes.  JGD]

Justin...

----------
Posted by: Justin Zrinski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 19 11:42:13 1993
Subject: Re: Buick stuff (was Hot rod
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5815
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

                          SUBJECT:  RE>Buick stuff (was Hot rod bu
[... Do you happen to know if they also deal with older Buick engines such as
the aluminum block 300 or Wildcat 465?...

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia ....]

Most of the performance suppliers concentrate on the 400-430-455 family, but
I'm pretty sure that T/A Performance (owner Mike Tomazewski) has a line of
perf. products for the older Buicks.  Mike is a VERY knowledgable Buick guy ...
he always impresses me at the tech sessions at the GS Nationals.  I guess you
have to be pretty good to make a Buick Sportwagon do 4 foot wheelstands and go
mid-9s!

I think that Poston Enterprises also has a complete line of Buick perf. parts
for the older motors.  I've seen cams and misc. other stuff while browsing
their catalog.  Didn't pay much attention, since I was looking for 430 parts.


-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National:  A *BOOST* of Buick Performance

----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 19 11:49:55 1993
Subject: Buick Wildcat 445/465
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5816
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Yes, the designations Wildcat 445/465 were TORQUE numbers and were used 
on the air cleaners of 401 and 425 cubic inch "nailhead" engines.
This has caused much confusion; I still see ads in Hemmings referring
to the 445/465 numbers as cubic inches!  They may also have been
used on the 430, but I'll defer this to someone who has one....

Ned Wilmarth
nwilmart@digi.lonestar.org

----------
Posted by: NED 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 19 11:54:06 1993
Subject: Flywheel problem -  general question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5817
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey guys.

Spent all weekend thrashing together the Cheby Blazer. It needed a 
new clutch.  While I was at it I decided to replace the flywheel as 
well.  It had already been machined  twice and I noticed it had deep 
cracks in it when I removed it (1wk ago).

Now here's the problem.  The new flywheel is a Hayes high 
performance 30lbs steel flywheel (about 2/3rds the priced of a stock 
flywheel - I hate GM pricing).  The center section is thicker than 
stock.  In fact it's so thick that when its installed the flywheel 
bolt heads hit the springs on the clutch disk.  Hayes has no mention 
of this as a potential problem.  I brought the flywheel to a machine 
shop and their going to mill the center section to a few thousands 
thicker than the stock one.  Has anyone ever heard or read of a 
problem like this?  Are there other solutions.  This machine works 
is going to cost me $30-40 - bring the price in line with the stock 
flywheel.  Total cost $180 vs. $200.  The only advantage I can see 
is this flywheel is all steel - not cast and is SEMA approved (what 
does that mean?).

Any comments would be appriciated.

Thanks
Dirk


OADDAB.stdvax.gsfc.nasa.gov

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 19 11:59:04 1993
Subject: Re: Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5818
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: Holley Vacuum Lines
>Date: Fri, 16 Jul 93 20:11:02 GMT



>I've got an after market 600 CFM Holley (model 1850) that I am putting on
>a 350 Chevy.  My question concerns the vacuum lines that hook up to the
>carburetor.  There are 3 vacuum ports on the carb.  Anyone know which
>goes where?  Thanks.

>1) - fitting located on the carb base, in front, under front bowl, angled
>     toward choke side of carb.

>2) - fitting located on choke side, just behind front bowl, up high.

>3) - fitting located on carb base, choke side, toward rear, larger size (1/4")
>     

I've got #1 going to the vacuum advance on the distributor.  I've got #2 
plugged with a rubber cap.  And I've got #3 going to the PCV valve.

Scotty...

----------
Posted by: "Roger D. Scott" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 19 12:03:24 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5819
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod
Path: cwis!mgolden
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Regal rearend....
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1993 06:33:00 GMT
Lines: 25

Well, on the way home from the track Friday, I started hearing an intermittent
clanking noise coming from the rear end of my car.  When I put it up on
jackstands to check the rear brake drums (wishfull thinking!) I could tell
that the clanking was coming from the rear end.  It's the stock posi rear
on my '79 Regal.  I haven't taken the cover off yet, but I fully expect to
have bearings or gear teeth fall out. (Yuk!  I hat changing rear ends!  I
should be getting good at it by now.. This will be the first for this car,
though.)  Now for my question...
  What rear end should I put back in the car.  I know that a custom built
Ford 9-inch or 12 bolt would be ideal, but I'm just a poor student.  What
would be the best thing to put back in there?  I'm only pulling about 250
horsepower, but I guess that was enough to grenade this rear-end.  (Although
I do have a shift kit on it, and the 1-2 shifts are down right brutal)  Do
all the A body rear ends that came stock have the same gearing?  I want to
find a posi with a lower gear ratio.  If it's just the ring and/or the
pinion, how bad is it to replace?  (Pretty bad, I'm guessing!)  Thanks
for your help!

Maybee it's just low on fluid!  I can always hope!
 
--
.--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 19 12:08:51 1993
Subject: Re: Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5820
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I've got an after market 600 CFM Holley (model 1850) that I am putting on
>a 350 Chevy.  My question concerns the vacuum lines that hook up to the
>carburetor.  There are 3 vacuum ports on the carb.  Anyone know which
>goes where?  Thanks.


	I connect the vacuum port located highest on the carb to the vacuum
advance on the distributor. The one lower on the carb base goes to the 
modulator on the transmission. The large 1/4" port goes to a PCV valve and then
to the valve cover.

	Pete

	IZCC #55

----------
Posted by: emory!ll.mit.edu!psanders (Peter Sanders)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 09:42:49 1993
Subject: RE: Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5821
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I've got an after market 600 CFM Holley (model 1850) that I am putting on
>a 350 Chevy.  My question concerns the vacuum lines that hook up to the
>carburetor.  There are 3 vacuum ports on the carb.  Anyone know which
>goes where?  Thanks.
>
>1) - fitting located on the carb base, in front, under front bowl, angled
>     toward choke side of carb.

Manifold vacumm - various connections - anything that needs a small amount of 
vacuum.  If its larger diameter it could be use for the pcv-valve.

>
>2) - fitting located on choke side, just behind front bowl, up high.
>
Ported vacumm - for your distributer vacuum advance - can  also be used for EGR 
valve (if the rest of the carb is tuned for it.

>3) - fitting located on carb base, choke side, toward rear, larger size (1/4")

Manifold vacumm - for power brake booster.

For late model stock engines the distributer vacumm advance is usually routed 
to a thermal switch - while the engine is cold it allows manifold vacumm to go 
to the distributer (and shuts off the EGR).  I have a Pontiac that had a one 
way valve with a thermostatically controlled bypass - that means I got full 
vacumm advance until the engine was warm then the bypass would open up and 
bleed off the excess vacumm.  This was an attempt to control the cold running 
hesitations.

Good Luck
Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:24:07 1993
Subject: fuel delivery system still
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5822
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Hey Hotrod crew,

  To my astonishment, I realized that Summit lists several nice Mallory
regulators, a couple of which are bypass regulators!  My friend and I are
still torn on the rest of the fuel delivery system.  The old fashioned 
"typical" way would be to run a single 1/2" line with two Holley blue pumps
in serial to a single standard regulator with no return.  (can you say
outdated crap boys and girls???)  Several options are:

Remember this is for a heavy-breathing 454 that will be spinning up to
8,000 RPM, with two Holley "race" center-squirter 660's.

1.  The "typical" cheeze configuration.  (I would rather eat feces!  :-)

2.  One source line (1/2" ?) with a single pressure bypass return, feeding
both carbs (1 elec pump).

3.  Two source lines (1/2" or 3/8" ?), each with its own pump and
bypass (ouch $$$$!); could share single return ???.

The #2 option looks the best for us, but we doubt that a single Holley blue
pump can adequately feed this beast.  (Anyone have some formulas for 
computing fuel requirements?  Everytime I try I get some strange numbers :-)
We will probably go with #2 and keep an eye on the fuel pressure...  we
may go ahead and run the parallel pump and line for the nitrous system.
We will probably have to upgrade to a better Mallory pump (say the 140gph)

[Engine displacement X (max RPM / 2) X volumetric efficiency gives the
cubic inches per minute air consumption, X 60 gives the cu inch per
hour.  Multiply 4.1943E-5 to convert to lbs per hour of air at STP
(Temperature/ altitude correction necessary.) Figure 11:1 A/F at WOT.
1/11th as much fuel by weight is needed so divide the lbs/hr of air by
11.  That gives you the lbs/hr of fuel needed.  To convert to gal/hr,
you'll need to know the fuel's density in the proper units.  I use 0.75
grams/cc for regular pump fuel which works out to 6.26 lbs/gal.  Most
racing gas is around 0.77-0.79.

Let's see.  454 cu inches at 7000 rpm with a VE of 0.85 gives

454 * (7000/2) * 0.85 * 60 * 4.1943e-5 = 3,399 lbs per hour of air.

At 11:1 that gives 309 lbs/hr of fuel.  Divided by 6.26 lbs/gal = 49 gal/hr.
At 10:1, 340 lbs/hr, 54.3 gal/hr.
At 10:1 and assuming 100% VE (your headers and manifold are working REAL
good) 4000 lbs/hr air, 400 lbs/hr fuel, 64 gal/hr.

(Someone please check my math.  I'm doing this real quick.)

For supercharging/turbocharging, the rule of thumb that has worked well
for me is assume a volumetric efficiency of 0.85 + (1 * each atmosphere of
boost).  15 psi of boost indicates a VE of about 1.85.  For nitrous
the situation gets complicated because the nitrous displaces some of the 
intake air and it chills the mix, increasing the density.  The momentary
fuel consumption is increased a bit more by the draw of the accelerator
pump (if you backpedal) but that's probably insignificant.

This illustrates that grossly oversized fuel pumps are not necessary.  I
strongly suspect these huge pumps came about as a means of solving 
problems caused by too small and/or too many bends in the fuel lines.
My matchbook pressure drop calculation indicates 1/2" should be fine
without nitrous.  If you can conveniently run 1" piping or 2 1/2" runs, 
that would remove any question.  If you think your pump is marginal,
consider adding an accumulator near the carb instead of a larger pump.
Something the size of a propane torch cylinder can deliver a quart
instantly.  Since you'll only be using about a quart of fuel during
the actual run (assuming a 12 second quarter at 64 gal/hr), this is
viable and cheap.  Even more so if you use an accumulator to feed 
fuel to the nitrous system.  JGD]

What sayeth the hotrod creweth?
Oh yeah, the mallory bypass regulator we will probably get is around $70.
(Anyone noticed how darned expensive modern-tech parts have gotten?????!!!!)

Thanks for the help,
jC.   jca@fibercom.com

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:31:15 1993
Subject: Rear for Regal or Regal Rear (G-body)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5823
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>  What rear end should I put back in the car.  I know that a custom built
>Ford 9-inch or 12 bolt would be ideal, but I'm just a poor student.  What
>would be the best thing to put back in there?  I'm only pulling about 250
>horsepower, but I guess that was enough to grenade this rear-end.  (Although
>I do have a shift kit on it, and the 1-2 shifts are down right brutal)  Do
>all the A body rear ends that came stock have the same gearing?  I want to
>find a posi with a lower gear ratio.  If it's just the ring and/or the
>pinion, how bad is it to replace?  (Pretty bad, I'm guessing!)  Thanks
>for your help!

Well I got sort of the same problem on a project car of mine.  It seems some 
late 70 G-bodies have a 7.25" rear or something equally as weak.  Your major 
problem is your shift kit.   Doing some minimalistic research I have 
found/herd that the early A body rears are about 1" wider than the G-body 
ones.  For me that would allow me to run some standard offset wheels back 
there.  It would require rewelding the spring perch (on top of the axle for 
G-bodies and behind the axle on A-bodies - I think everything else will bolt 
up. If not you'll  be in for a major welding session...  You'll have to cut 
off the mounts on your old axle - and weld them on the new (or fabricate 
custom stuff).  If not done properly you could warp the whole housing and turn 
it into a couple of hundred pounds of junk.  My budget recommendation would be 
to repair the rear if possible.  Only if you  find a cracked housing would I 
go for a new rear.  Next choice would be a chevy 12 bolt (easy to find 
aftermarket parts down the road).  I'd measure as carefully as possible the 
mounting possitions.  For some reason bolt-on ladder bars that fit A-bodies 
won't fit the G-bodies.  This points to the possibility of major suspension 
mounting differences.

Oh yeah... I 'd forget about some of the latter Grand National type housings 
since the use a torque arm setup.  Unless your trying to improve your 
handling.  Seems those GM 4-links set-ups bind when going through the motions. 
 Not to mention a good pan-hard does wonders for keeping the axle housings 
from moving lateraly.

If you decide to go with a 9" rear.... I'd buy a housing from Currie or the 
like ($400) and get the rest of the parts from a used 9" rear.  Maybe a 4.56 
spool rear for racing and a 3.27 for the ride home....

Just my .02
Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:37:01 1993
Subject: Re: Z-car parts questions
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5824
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Hotrod List wrote:
> 
> 
>  Torque should be between 425 and 450 ft-lb, judging by some very
> similar engines on the dyno.  Using the 3.03 first gear in the TH700,
> that's near 1500 ft-lb going into the diff.

Sounds like the R200 is 4U :)

> -> The hard part about putting ZX disks on a 24O is getting the damn
> -> stub axle nut off without f@cking the whole thing up.  You can't heat
> 
>  Why does the stub axle nut have to come off?  The rotor is a single
> piece solid rotor and offset hat that slips over the wheel flange.  Does
> the stub axle have to come out to put on the caliper bracket?

If you can get the backing plate for the drums off w/o taking out the
stub axle, be my guest.  I tried chewing out the blate with some HD shears,
but it seemed more futal than taking off that damn crimped nut.

[Wish me luck!  I'm finally having to replace the bearings in my rear
axles after 300,000 miles.  Grrr.  Of course I do have a ported'n'polished
air wrench running on 175 psi shop air so I have a small leg up :-)  JGD]

--DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

----------
Posted by: David Johnson 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:42:08 1993
Subject: A-arm weldments
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5825
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I need to fabricate some A-arms for an autocross car.  At first I'd
hoped to find something about the right size from the junkyard or the
circle track places, but no luck.  I'll need to make some.

 Most of the street rod, circle track, and some production car A-arms
are made from weldments.  I checked the usual sources - Van Valkenburgh,
Puhn, Costin&Phipps, Fournier - with no luck.  I was kinda disappointed
Fournier didn't cover making A-arms.

 I can turn the ball joint and bushing holders on the lathe.  I can
fishmouth the tubes using an end mill on the milling machine.  I can
make a welding fixture to hold the tubes and pieces together with
springs.  I don't think this is anything I want to weld myself, so I'll
take it down to a shop I trust.

 Anyone have any experiences building A-arms?  I have an innate distrust
of welded joints, but those NASCAR whales and F5000 cars do it.
                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:46:48 1993
Subject: Re:Pro truck
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5826
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have a '90 model Silverado with the rear suspension modified
to accept a M/T 16.50 x 31 Sportsman tire on a 12 x 15 Centerline
rim. I used Bell Tech spindles and springs in the front and
their flip kit in the rear. By moving the forward leaf spring
perch directly under the frame and the rear perch 1" closer to
the outboard side of the frame, I was able to muscle the leaf
spring in far enough to clear the tires. I had to narrow the
rear end about 8.5 inches and split/extend the wheelwells 4.5"
to complete the modification.

This is about as much as you can do without completely relocating
the fuel tank and going to a four link. (expensive$$$) Furthermore
I wouldn't recommend doing it at all unless you only plan to 
drive the vehicle on sunny days. It is TOTALLY UNSAFE in the rain!
M/T and the car rags like CC and HR that promote this look have
never once to my knowledge issued a disclaimer concerning the 
instant hydroplane that occurs with fat weenies.

I took all the stuff off after about a year and went back to a
more conventional size tire. If you are not to be deterred, e-mail
me if you would like more info. I still have the 3.42 posi rear 
and assorted hardware that I'd be happy to make you a deal on.

Vic Cook
vcook@sierra.com

----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!vcook (Victor Cook)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:51:26 1993
Subject: Re:Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5827
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have occasionally painted a race car with acid dipped panels. It's
not a pretty situation! Most chemical milling processes remove material
fairly evenly but the metal on automotive panels is rarely of uniform
thickness. You wind up with places that are paper thin and other areas
that have trapped the solution that continues to ooze out. I've had to
go back over the thin areas with a layer of fiberglass mat to build
them up to where you can do bodywork. (Necessary because the parts 
tend to distort when excessively milled.)

A more satisfactory approach is to use fiberglass for hood, fenders,
decklid and bumpers if at all possible. If you have a non-mainstream
vehicle that does not have these aftermarket parts available, some
companies can make a "one off" mold of your parts and make the pieces.
Fiberglass Trends did this for years albeit with inconsistent quality.

Disclaimer: my too sense worth :-)


----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!vcook (Victor Cook)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 10:56:40 1993
Subject: Toyota bolt sizes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5828
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Metric Bolt Torque Specs
extracted from "Toyota 20R Engine Repair Manual"
Toyota Motor Sales Co., Ltd., 1979

(note: Toyota has their own bolt nomenclature; this is different from
       the way most metrics are sized.  Reproduced here since it's
       simple, logical, and easy to use, and you might be able to get
       that odd metric fastener from a Toyota dealer - DLW)


Toyota part number: 91111-4 06 20
                    ----- - -- --
                      |   | |  |
                      |   | |   +-- length of bolt in mm
                      |   | +------ basic major diameter of thread
                      |   +-------- mark on head of bolt
                      +------------ basic bolt part number


mark on head of bolt            4           5           7
Toyota standard classification  4T          5T          7T
tensile strength (kg/mm^2)      >42         >55         >75
Brinell hardness number         121-209     147-227     227-271
Rockwell hardness number        B70 to 95   B89 to 98   C20 to 28
yield point (kg/mm^2)           >30         >45         >60

                          standard torque     torque limit
Toyota  basic   thread     -------------   -------------------
class   dia.    pitch      kg/m    ft-lb   kg/m       ft-lb

4T      6       1.0        0.47     3.4    0.4-0.7     2.9-5.0
        8       1.25       1.11     8.0    1.0-1.6     7.3-11.6
        10      1.25       2.25    16.3    1.9-3.1    13.7-22.4
        10      1.5        2.14    15.5    1.8-3.0    13.0-21.7
        12      1.25 (ISO) 4.40    31.8    3.5-5.5    25.3-39.8
        12      1.5        3.89    28.1    3.5-5.5    25.3-39.8
        12      1.75       3.74    27.0    3.0-5.0    21.7-36.2
        13      1.5        5.08    36.8    4.5-7.0    32.5-50.6
        14      1.5        6.33    45.8    5.0-8.0    36.2-57.8
        14      2.0        5.93    42.8    4.7-7.7    34.0-55.7
        16      1.5        9.57    69.2    7.5-11.0   54.2-79.6
        16      2.0        9.10    65.8    7.1-10.6   51.3-76.7

5T      6       1.0        0.71    5.1     0.6-0.9    4.4-6.5
        8       1.25       1.66    12.0    1.5-2.2    10.9-15.9
        10      1.25       3.34    24.1    3.0-4.5    21.7-32.5
        10      1.5        3.22    23.3    2.7-4.2    19.5-30.4
        12      1.25 (ISO) 6.60    47.7    5.0-8.0    36.2-57.8
        12      1.5        5.84    42.2    5.0-7.0    36.2-50.6
        12      1.75       5.61    40.6    4.8-6.8    34.7-49.2
        13      1.5        7.63    55.2    6.5-9.0    47.0-65.1
        14      1.5        8.90    65.3    7.5-11.0   54.2-79.6
        14      2.0        9.50    68.7    7.0-10.5   50.6-75.9
        16      1.5        14.36   103.8   12.0-17.0  86.8-123.0
        16      2.0        13.58   98.1    11.5-16.5  83.2-119.2

7T      6       1.0        0.95    6.9     0.8-1.2    5.8-8.6
        8       1.25       2.21    16.1    2.0-3.0    14.5-21.7
        10      1.25       4.49    32.5    4.0-5.5    28.9-39.8
        10      1.5        4.29    31.0    3.7-5.2    26.8-37.6
        12      1.25       8.80    63.5    7.5-10.5   54.1-75.8
        12      1.5        7.78    56.2    7.0-9.0    50.6-65.1
        12      1.75       7.48    54.1    6.0-8.5    43.3-61.4
        13      1.5        10.17   74.5    8.0-12.0   57.8-86.8
        14      1.5        12.67   91.6    10.0-15.0  72.3-108.5
        14      2.0        11.86   85.8    9.5-14.0   68.7-101.2
        16      1.5        19.15   138.5   15.0-23.0  108.5-166.2
        16      2.0        18.11   131.0   14.0-22.0  101.2-159.0
                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 11:01:46 1993
Subject: Compomotive UK address
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5829
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Does anyone have Compomotive's UK address or phone number?
                                                                                                                 

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 11:06:46 1993
Subject: Dave's Reference List, take 1, part 2
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5830
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


"Vehicle Body Layout And Analysis"
John Fenton, Mechanical Engineering Publications
(available through SAE) 1980 - L19.50, or about $35 1980 dollars

  This book purports to be a design manual for unit chassis.
Unfortunately it's written in a British version of Intermediate
Obfuscese; one of the Educational dialects.  The book is full of
illustrations and formulas.  Alas, the illustrations are pretty
generic (most are identical to Costin & Phipps) and the formulas are
usually missing minutiae like what the variables stand for. If you can
borrow it from a library it might be worth looking through, but don't
waste your money.


"Advanced Race Car Suspension and Development"
Steve Smith, Steve Smith Autosports Publications, 1974

  This is a home-published book.  It's a thin paperback; the text
looks like it was photocopied off typewritten pages, the illustrations
range from excellent to crummy.  It's also quite old and primarily
concerned with NASCAR type heavy metal.  Buy it.  Think of it as a
miniaturized handbook of suspension design.  This book doesn't cover
everything, but what it covers it does well.  The chapter on how to
fix bump steer is worth the whole price of the book.


"The Complete Handbook of Automotive Power Trains"
Jan P. Norbye, TAB Books, 1981  ($9.95)

  This book is loaded with information, photos, anecdotes, and
history.  There isn't any hard design information, but if you aspire
to doing your own engine someday, you need this book.  It covers lots
of weird-Alice stuff, plus the usual Norbye factoids.  Worth buying
just for interesting reading, even if you're not an enginehead.


"Design and Tuning of Competition Engines, 6th Ed."
Philip H. Smith, Robert Bentley, 1954, 1977

  This is interesting reading, but don't expect to be able to design
an engine from what you get here.  Some of the author's theory is a
little shaky, and he's heavily biased toward the True Brit Way, and
some of the stuff is trivial or obsolete, but if you're starting from
the beginning it's not a bad book.


"How to Make Your Car Handle"
Fred Puhn, HPBooks, 1976, 1981

  This is your basic reference for suspension design and setup.  If
you can only afford one book, this is it.  It's not the ultimate
reference, but it packs the most suspension information into one book.
There's no excuse not to have it.


"Ford Performance"
Larry Schreib, S-A Design, 1979, $10.95

  This book describes the Ford V8s through '79, except for the
flathead and Y-block.  Lots of general information, photos, and
dimensions.  Much of it is cribbed from old Ford service bulletins and
Muscle Parts manuals, but you can't get those any more.  Worthwhile
for Ford fans, not much good for anyone else.


"Theory and Practice of Cylinder Head Modification"
David Vizard, Speedsport Motobooks, 1971

  This book is primarily oriented to porting Mini and Cortina motors.
It has some handy port templates in the back.  Unless you're porting
one of these engines you probably don't want this book.


"Fundamentals of Automotive Engine Balance"
W. Thomson, Mechanical Engineering Publications, 1978  (UK)

  This book covers the basics of automotive engine balance fairly
well.  Unfortunately, it doesn't agree with my other sources, but
that's OK, none of them agree with each other anyway.  The book is
quite readable.  I would have preferred both a little more theory and
a little more hands-on stuff, but it's worth reading anyway.


"The Complete Handbook of Front Wheel Drive Cars"
Jan P. Norbye, TAB Books, 1979  ($9.95)

  The author pushes FWD pretty hard, but in the usual Norbye style
there's a ton of incidental information and some drawings and photos
you won't find anywhere else.  Worth buying and reading even if you
could care less about cars that drive the wrong set of wheels.  Lots
of history, technical details, and general design information.


"Carburetors & Carburetion"
Walter B. Larew, Chilton's Automotive Series, 1967

  Written by a retired Army general, this isn't a "how carburetors
work" book - it's a book on how to *design* carburetors.  I've never
seen anything like it.  The information is quite detailed, and even if
you never decide to whittle your own carb out of billet, it'll help
you set up an ordinary carburetor.


"The Scientific Design of Exhaust and Intake Systems - 3rd Ed."
Philip H. Smith and John C. Morrison, Robert Bentley, 1962, 1971

  You probably won't find much useful information here, unless you
like to look at antique vacuum-tube pressure testing equipment.  The
authors were primarily concerned with el cheapo old engines with
siamsed ports and single carburetors.  There are no formulas or good
information for header design, and little other than the obvious for
anything.  Probably worth your time to flip through if you come across
a copy; not worth much time spent trying to find a copy.


*** Driving ***********************************************************

  I have an unflattering opinion of most driving books.  This opinion
is probably not justifiable considering my lack of success as a
driver.


"Winning Autocross and Solo II Competition - The Art and the Science"
Richard Turner, J.B. Miles, National Academy of Professional Driving,
1977

  The sections on "how to drive" are OK.  Don't pay any attention to
the authors' blithering about engines.  I would have liked to have
seen more of the technical stuff implied by the second half of the
title, but the book does a fair job on the nontechnical stuff.



*** Books referenced by other books.  I haven't seen any of these, ***
*** but noted them in case anyone else remembers and has comments. ***

"Automatic Transmissions"
Walter B. Larew, Chilton's Automotive Series, mid'60s

"Vehicle Body Engineering"
J. Pawlowski, Business Books, 1969  (UK)

"Vehicle Body Construction And Design"
Giles, Iliffe Books, 1970  (UK)
  Iliffe Books Ltd.               Iliffe Books Ltd.
  42 Russell Square       or      Dorset House
  London W.C.1                    Stamford Street
                                  London S.E.1

"Handbook Of Automotive Design Analysis"
John Fenton, Business Books Ltd.    (UK)
this is the author of "Vehicle Body Layout And Analysis"  (reviewed
above)

"The Motor Vehicle, 8th Ed."
'A textbook for students, draughtsmen and owner-drivers.'  K.Newton
et.al.,
authors.  713pp, 647 illustrations

"Automobile Tyres"
L.J.K. Setright, Chapman & Hall, London 1972

"Design of Racing Sports Cars"
Colin Campbell, Robert Bentley
                                                                                                          

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 11:15:15 1993
Subject: Dave's Reference List, take 1, part 1
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5831
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


  I've been going back to the books lately to check my details before
I start machining and welding on my newest project.  In the course of
this I have been rereading some stuff from cover to cover.  Lots of
these books I haven't looked at for six or seven years, so I've been
re-forming opinions on them.  Since there have been some questions
concerning basic reference material here, I've summarized my thoughts
below.

  My library is much larger than this, of course.  These are just the
ones I've looked through lately.


           ====== Dave's Automotive Reference Library ======


"Race Car Engineering and Mechanics - 3rd ed."
Paul Van Valkenburgh, HPBooks, 1976, 1986, 1992  ($16.99)

  With a name like that, I expected a lot.  Instead, I'd like to
strangle the author slowly.  There's all the usual basic material on
roll centers and the like.  The author was evidently one of the very
first to play with onboard instrumentation systems, but he tells us
little about them.  He continually refers to SAE papers without
telling the paper number or title.  He'll start to talk about
something really interesting, then blow it off with "however, that
exceeds the scope of this book."  There's plenty of good information
in there, but you have to read carefully to find it.


"Braking of Road Vehicles"
T.P. Newcomb and R.T. Spurr, Robert Bentley, 1969

  This book isn't arranged particularly well, nor is it easy to read,
but it covers the basic thermodynamics of braking systems quite well.
It covers some stuff Puhn's "Brake Handbook" glosses over, but unless
you're really, really into brakes, you probably won't have much use
for this one.


"Streamlining and Car Aerodynamics"
Jan P. Norbye, TAB Books, 1977   ($3.95)

  This is a good introduction to automotive aerodynamics.  No math,
but lots of photos, charts, and general information.  Probably worth
reading even if you've had some background in aeronautic stuff.


"Tractors and Their Power Units, 2nd Edition"
The Ferguson Foundation, John Wiley & Sons, 1952, 1963

  Don't laugh.  These are the people who developed the "silly putty"
center positrac used in the Jensen FF and the early 4WD Shelby and
Lotus Indy cars.  They know their stuff.  This book covers the
chemistry of combustion, lots of stuff on lubricants, magnetic theory
and spark ignition, alternate fuels, balancing, coolants and
corrosion, and rafts of the kind of stuff most books simply blow off.
It's thirty years old, but there's probably a new version out
somewhere.  It'd be well worth your time to try to find it.


"Motorcycle Chassis Design - The Theory and Practice"
Tony Foale and Vic Willoughby, Osprey Publishing, 1984  (L 6.95)

  This is one of the very few texts on motorcycle chassis and
suspension.  Foale cribbed an awful lot from Smith's "Motorcycle
Engineering", but there's enough original material to make it useful.


"Tuning Suspension and Brakes" - Speedsport Tuning Companion 3
Martyn Watkins, Speedsport Motobooks, 1973  (L 1.95)

  This is basically a bound pamphlet, and it's... well, basic.  Basic
enough it's not likely to be of any use to anyone who knows the
difference between a steering wheel and a tire.  Forget it.


"Racing and Sports Car Chassis Design"
Michael Costin and David Phipps, Robert Bentley, 1961, 1980  ($14.95)

  Michael Costin is the "Cos" of Cosworth.  He's been around a long
time. You'd think this would be a good book, but practically any basic
engineering text would be more useful.  Much of the information is
very trivial, presented in a long-winded fashion.  To show you how
shallow the book is, it barely mentions the subject of torsional
stiffness, and gives no details at all.  Worth flipping through if you
can borrow it, but not worth buying.


"Petersen's Basic Chassis, Suspension, & Brakes"  (3rd edition)
Jay Storer, editor, Petersen Publications, 1974  ($1.97)

  This is one of those cheap 8.5x11" paperbacks put out by the people
who do Hot Rod Magazine.  The majority of the material is taken up
with high-school-level stuff like "this is how a disc brake works" or
"basic suspension alignment."  Wedged in the cracks are some very,
very good bits on everything from chassis design to suspension
geometry. You have to dig to find the good stuff, but it's well worth
the effort, particularly for the price of the book.  Lots of
illustrations, mostly small, but usually relevant and interesting,
which isn't always the case with this sort of book.  Buy it.


"New Directions in Suspension Design - Making the Fast Car Faster"
Colin Campbell, Robert Bentley, 1981

  This is actually a basic book on suspensions.  You won't see much of
interest in here if you've read much on the subject.  It does have a
long and detailed section on the Citroen hydraulic suspension, though.


"The Sports Car - Its Design and Performance"
Colin Campbell, Robert Bentley, 1978

  This is a fair introductory text on high performance cars.  It
covers engines, transmissions, suspension, etc, with in-depth coverage
of some selected cars.  It's highly slanted to the "the Brits did it
all first" line, but the author throws in lots of interesting factoids
that make the book worth purchasing, or at least reading.


"Racing Car Design and Development"
Len Terry and Alan Baker, Robert Bentley, 1973

  This is another misleading book.  It's actually a sort of biography
of Len Terry's early experiences in designing cars, with a smattering
of odds and ends of car design.  Terry worked with Colin Chapman,
Carroll Shelby, Dan Gurney, and others, but remains infuriatingly
vague about details.  Reading between the lines, I got the impression
Terry was rather hard to get along with and pissed people off.  There
are almost no details of Terry's later cars.  The book is only barely
worth purchasing.


"Automotive Technology Series Volume I - Steering, Suspension, and
Tyres" J.G. Giles, editor,  Iliffe Books, 1968 (UK)

  This is a collection of essays from British technical journals.
It's not much use as a general design guide, but it has some very
interesting sections on air suspension, dual axle vehicles, rubber
springs (that chapter is written by Alec Moulton) and more.  Probably
not useful unless you're into air or rubber springs, and then it'd be
indispensable.


"The Car And Its Wheels - A Guide To Modern Suspension Systems"
Jan P. Norbye, TAB Books 1980     $9.95 (1980 price)

  This is a TAB book, which means it's chock-full of typographic
errors, sentence fragments, inverted or miscaptioned pictures, and the
like. It's also an excellent reference for all types of automotive
suspension systems.  The basic information - caster, camber, roll
centers, and the like - is pretty much like any other suspension book,
but Norbye's throwaway comments make it worthwhile - odd figures and
factoids you can't find anywhere else.  Norbye also covers European
oddities and goes into detail on the history of various systems.
Don't be put off by TAB's slipshod publishing - this book really needs
to be on your shelf.  It's an excellent companion for Puhn's "How to
Make Your Car Handle."
   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 13:45:23 1993
Subject: Ignition problem? - Help!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5832
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Hi all.  Well, I fixed my idle problem (thanks everyone!) - it turned out to
be just a combination of my timing and mixture set waaaaaay too lean (I let
a friend of mine do it - I checked it myself, found them both way way off, so
once I fixed them it idled fine.  I'll do it all myself from now on, thank
you very much.)

But, now I have another problem.  Now that the engine is broken in, I have been
out testing it's legs, and have found another problem.  Right around 4500-5000
RPMs, the engine seems to just lay down and die, and last night it was actually
misfiring at anything above 5000RPM.  It almost sounded like valve float, 
except that it surged between 4700-5400 while doing it, and the springs/lifters
and cam setup are rated for at least 6500 (the springs are rated for roughly
7000 RPMs.)

First thing I thought of was the ignition.  It is a GM HEI unit, all stock, 
with an HEI intensifier coil, Taylor 8mm plug wires and Champion H.O.T. plugs.
My guess is that the HEI is breaking up at high RPMs, and causing the problems.
Another reason I believe it is the ignition is that I pulled the cap & rotor
off yesterday, and it looks like it has been arcing between the coil and the
rotor pickup in the cap (it is covered in carbon dust, and both the pickup
on the coil and rotor are badly scored - only 2K on the cap and rotor...)
Plus, now I can hear the arcing at idle sometimes between the cap and rotor.

I'm still trying to figure out why the cap and rotor fried, as I know that
the wires are good, and figured they would have fried from too much resistance
in the wires, but they worked fine for the 5K miles they were on the engine
before...  The engine revved to holy high hell before it went in my car with
the old distributor and cam (the tach only went to 7K :) )  I still have the
old dist (a GM HEI unit) but used mine after I rebuilt it because the dist.
gear on the old one was chewed up.  Could the plug gap be too wide?  I set
it at .045 (what I was told.)  Or, could the misfiring have caused it to cook?

I was also talking with a few people last night, and was told 2 other maybes
for what is happening:  1) Valves too tight.  2) Fuel problem.  I'm not sure
if I believe either of these right now anyway.  I discounted 1) because,
although it is a hydraulic cam, from what I know the lifters should be fully
pumped up by 3000RPM, and if they were too tight, it would start doing it
then.  I discounted 2) because it is all new and has plenty of fuel pressure
(I know, not great reasons, but the ignition is the most obvious, and with
the other problems it has, I am going to start there. :) )

I'm looking for any advice anyone might have.  What I'm going to try is the
following:

1) Put a new dist gear on the old distributor and see how it works.  I don't
think I want to stick with this dist, because of the chewed dist. gear, but
if it temporarily fixes the problem, at least I know what was wrong.  The
reason we think the dist. gear was screwed is that the engine had a regular
HEI in it at first, then the guy I got the engine from put in a Vertex Magneto,
and then put the HEI back in.  He said that the magneto must have chewed up
the gear on the cam, and then when the HEI went back in the cam gear chewed
up the dist gear.  Any thoughts? (I put in a new cam with slightly different
specs than the old one, and the old cam was junk...)

2) New cap & rotor (I'll put them in with the old dist.)

3) Recheck the plugs (and re-gap them if they are too wide.)

4) Check the voltage at the dist (make sure it has enough coming in.)

5) Check the wires with an OHM-meter and make sure they don't have too much
resistance.

6) If none of these are the problem, junk the car. :)

Anything else I should check for?  I have another coil to try as well if
these don't work, but the coil is new and worked fine in the other car (the
only think I haven't actually changed yet is the distributor.)  

Well, if you got this far through my babbling, thanks alot in advance for any
advice I receive, and putting up with my bitching.

-- Steve

   Steven T McClure     ex-'84 GPZ 750 Turbo pilot       stm0@gte.com
GTE Government Systems         DoD #0425              
  Needham, Ma. 02194            /*  Insert standard disclaimer here. */
Beta software: 'beta than nothing, and that's usually all it is...

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 13:58:36 1993
Subject: Ford Thunderbird Exaust System Question V6 (3.8L)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5833
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I have a question regarding the stock exhaust system on a 1985 Ford Thunderbird
with a 3.8L V-6.   I am in the process of trying to figure out a cause of what
might be excessive back pressure.  The question is this:

Right downline from the exhaust manifold on each side (before the collector
tube) is what looks like a small catalytic converter, with heat shields above
them.  The car has (had) a large catalytic converter which seemed not to be
plugged or causing and problems.  Does anyone know what these little devices
might be?  There are no tubes coming out of them nor sensors in them, so my
only guess is that they are some evil emission device.

Thanks for any help.

Take care,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: emory!ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu!bphdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 14:13:04 1993
Subject: Ford Thunderbird Exaust System Question V6 (3.8L)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5834
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I have a question regarding the stock exhaust system on a 1985 Ford Thunderbird
with a 3.8L V-6.   I am in the process of trying to figure out a cause of what
might be excessive back pressure.  The question is this:

Right downline from the exhaust manifold on each side (before the collector
tube) is what looks like a small catalytic converter, with heat shields above
them.  The car has (had) a large catalytic converter which seemed not to be
plugged or causing and problems.  Does anyone know what these little devices
might be?  There are no tubes coming out of them nor sensors in them, so my
only guess is that they are some evil emission device.

Thanks for any help.

Take care,

SJRD

[This is off the charter.  Please answer directly by Email.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu!bphdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 14:30:39 1993
Subject: Headers by Ed
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5835
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Does anyone have the number of address for the Headers by Ed company?

Thanks,

SJRD

----------
Posted by: emory!ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu!bphdarcy (Sean J. Roc D'Arcy)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 14:38:49 1993
Subject: Re: Rear for Regal or Regal 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5836
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>Rear for Regal or Regal Rea
[... lots of good info about axle housings deleted ...]

[... Oh yeah... I 'd forget about some of the latter Grand National type
housings since they use a torque arm setup.  Unless your trying to improve your
handling.  Seems those GM 4-links set-ups bind when going through the motions. 
Not to mention a good pan-hard does wonders for keeping the axle housings from
moving lateraly....]
[... Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)...]

I'm kind of confused here, I must admit.  Mike has a G body, since he has a
1979 Regal ... right?  Or am I totally out in left field?

The 8.5" rears in the GNs also came in the 442s and some of the wagons.  The
GNs had 3.42:1 gears and the 442s had 3.73s.  Nothing exotic in these rears,
just standard four link/upper/lower control arms setup.  Only the GNX rear had
the panhard bar and shorty ladder bar/torque arm setup.  Since only 547 of
these were made, I doubt a GNX rear will be readily availble <*grin*>.

Anyway, *I* thought that an 8.5" rear would bolt right up to his ride ... a
fairly cheap way to get a pretty bullet proof rear.  Mine has went through
several hundred launches with 1.55-1.60 sixty foot times and has never shown
any sign of weakness.  Plus parts are very readily available through
Summit/Jeg's/etc for the 8.5" rears... gears/posi units galore!

Am I missing something?  Is the pre-82 model Regal considered an "A" body?  I
thought that A body's were the 68-73 Skylark/Chevelle/El Camino chassis ...
????

Ken Mosher
Buick GN: "... a *BOOST* of Buick Performance! ..."
 





----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 14:51:56 1993
Subject: Re:  fuel delivery system still
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5838
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 With two carbs, why not two separate forward fuel runs and two regulators?
For regulation I've been thinking along the lines of a buck regulator and
an orificed return line tee'd off from the carb feed (buck regulators don't
necessarily work too well with near-zero flow). A smallish orifice wouldn't
rob too much delivery but will give enough bleed-off to let a simple (cheap)
regulator work. Rear mounted pumps with internal regulation to maybe 10-15
PSI and downstream regulators at 5-7PSI might be a reasonable setup with
3/8" line running forward for each circuit. 

 Do "they" make bypass regulators that work down to 7PSI? I guess really 
it's just hole, ball, spring and setscrew. Probably could cobble up a
good-enough one out of the plumbing section at Ace. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 22:58:22 1993
Subject: Re:Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5839
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Jul 20,  4:45, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: Re:Acid dipping
>
> I have occasionally painted a race car with acid dipped panels. It's
> not a pretty situation! Most chemical milling processes remove material
> fairly evenly but the metal on automotive panels is rarely of uniform
> thickness. You wind up with places that are paper thin and other areas
> that have trapped the solution that continues to ooze out. I've had to
> go back over the thin areas with a layer of fiberglass mat to build
> them up to where you can do bodywork. (Necessary because the parts
> tend to distort when excessively milled.)
>
> A more satisfactory approach is to use fiberglass for hood, fenders,
> decklid and bumpers if at all possible. If you have a non-mainstream
> vehicle that does not have these aftermarket parts available, some
> companies can make a "one off" mold of your parts and make the pieces.
> Fiberglass Trends did this for years albeit with inconsistent quality.
>
> Disclaimer: my too sense worth :-)
>

I would use fiberglass on the car if the class rules allowed it.
Any idea on the weight savings you get?

-Bob



-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 23:08:46 1993
Subject: Headers by Ed (fwd)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5840
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

->From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 13:28:24 1993
->Subject: Headers by Ed
->
->Does anyone have the number of address for the Headers by Ed company?
->
Headers By "ED" Inc.
2710 16th Ave. S.
Minneapolis, MN (not sure of zip)
(612) 729-2802

----------
Posted by: emory!msc.edu!tom (Tom Kroeten)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 23:23:36 1993
Subject: Re: Ignition problem? - Help!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5841
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Steve McClure writes:
>But, now I have another problem.  Now that the engine is broken in, I have been
>out testing it's legs, and have found another problem.  Right around 4500-5000
>PMs, the engine seems to just lay down and die, and last night it was actually
>misfiring at anything above 5000RPM.  It almost sounded like valve float, 
>except that it surged between 4700-5400 while doing it, and the springs/lifters
>and cam setup are rated for at least 6500 (the springs are rated for roughly
>7000 RPMs.)

Probably too much gap in the plugs.  Try .035 and see if that helps.

And later:
>First thing I thought of was the ignition.  It is a GM HEI unit, all stock, 
>with an HEI intensifier coil, Taylor 8mm plug wires and Champion H.O.T. plugs.
>My guess is that the HEI is breaking up at high RPMs, and causing the problems.

Did you wire the HEI so that it is powered from battery voltage through
the ignition switch and not through the ballast resistor?

Champion plugs, eh?  I'd trash those and put in something with a good
reputation.  Ever see a brand-new defective spark plug?  I have, and
it was a Champion.  A co-worker has had the same experience.  And then
there's Champion's "Booster Gap" which multiplies radio interference
like there was no tomorrow.

Bob Hale

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 23:39:47 1993
Subject: RE: Ignition problem? - Help!
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5842
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>But, now I have another problem.  Now that the engine is broken in, I have been
>out testing it's legs, and have found another problem.  Right around 4500-5000
>RPMs, the engine seems to just lay down and die, and last night it was actually
>misfiring at anything above 5000RPM.  It almost sounded like valve float, 
>except that it surged between 4700-5400 while doing it, and the springs/lifters
>and cam setup are rated for at least 6500 (the springs are rated for roughly
>7000 RPMs.)

I don't remember what your actual combo is but I would check the
following.  1st make sure your getting enough advance at 4700.  My guess
is about 35 BTDC should do it.  No more no less.  Disconnect you vacumm
advance - you don't need it for full throttle stuff anyhow.  If its
really your distributer shouldn't you notice problems even at no load
and high rpm?

I don't remember what carb/ fuel system your using is but there could be
a fuel delivery problem.  Kinda of tough to diagnose but if the engine
leans out do to fuel starvation you'll be unable to exceed a certain rpm
at WOT.  Fuel pressure gauge will point this one out right away.

To run properly you need
1) the right amount of air
2) the right amount of fuel
3) spark at the right time.

Your gap seems O.K.  - I don't know about the intensifier kit (I doubt
it'll do any harm).  My HEI's always works OK even past 5000 rpm (pretty
much red-line on my truck).

>First thing I thought of was the ignition.  It is a GM HEI unit, all stock, 
>with an HEI intensifier coil, Taylor 8mm plug wires and Champion H.O.T. plugs.
>My guess is that the HEI is breaking up at high RPMs, and causing the problems.
>Another reason I believe it is the ignition is that I pulled the cap & rotor
>off yesterday, and it looks like it has been arcing between the coil and the
>rotor pickup in the cap (it is covered in carbon dust, and both the pickup
>on the coil and rotor are badly scored - only 2K on the cap and rotor...)
>Plus, now I can hear the arcing at idle sometimes between the cap and rotor.

You can get a clear cap and actually watch for the arching...

>I was also talking with a few people last night, and was told 2 other maybes
>for what is happening:  1) Valves too tight.  2) Fuel problem.  I'm not sure

I'm not sure if valves too tight will show up.  Hydrolic lifters only
fill to take up the gap between the push-rod and cam lobe.  Any extra is
bled off - at any speed.  High rpm lifters bleed-off a little faster -
causing the effective lift and therefor duration to be reduced at low
rpm.

of course the best way to check for a bad distributer is to install
another one...

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 20 23:58:16 1993
Subject: RE: Ford Thunderbird Exaust System Question V6 (3.8L)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5843
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I have a question regarding the stock exhaust system on a 1985 Ford Thunderbird
>with a 3.8L V-6.   I am in the process of trying to figure out a cause of what
>might be excessive back pressure.  The question is this:
>
>Right downline from the exhaust manifold on each side (before the collector
>tube) is what looks like a small catalytic converter, with heat shields above
>them.  

Your right.  To increase the "light-off" speed (or is that decrease the 'light-off' 
time?) of the catalyst Ford moved them closer to the engine.  The emissions 
requirement is something like HC must be reduced to x level within y minutes of 
starting a cold (their definition) engine.

Hope this helps
Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 00:03:40 1993
Subject: Re: Rear for Regal or Regal 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5844
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>[... Oh yeah... I 'd forget about some of the latter Grand National type
>housings since they use a torque arm setup.  Unless your trying to improve your
>handling.  Seems those GM 4-links set-ups bind when going through the motions. 
>Not to mention a good pan-hard does wonders for keeping the axle housings from
>moving lateraly....]
>[... Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)...]

>I'm kind of confused here, I must admit.  Mike has a G body, since he has a
>1979 Regal ... right?  Or am I totally out in left field?

Good so far..

>The 8.5" rears in the GNs also came in the 442s and some of the wagons.  The
>GNs had 3.42:1 gears and the 442s had 3.73s.  Nothing exotic in these rears,
>just standard four link/upper/lower control arms setup.  Only the GNX rear had
>the panhard bar and shorty ladder bar/torque arm setup.  Since only 547 of
>these were made, I doubt a GNX rear will be readily availble <*grin*>.

My mistake - it may just be the GNX rears that have the torque and
pan-hard bar setup.

>Anyway, *I* thought that an 8.5" rear would bolt right up to his ride ... a
>fairly cheap way to get a pretty bullet proof rear.  Mine has went through
>several hundred launches with 1.55-1.60 sixty foot times and has never shown

Seems you have a pretty fast GN.  Do you use a shift kit?  My GTO
destroyed two sets of spider gears on the stock 10 bolt rear - both
during 1-2 shifts.  Posi rears might be stronger though.

>any sign of weakness.  Plus parts are very readily available through
>Summit/Jeg's/etc for the 8.5" rears... gears/posi units galore!

>Am I missing something?  Is the pre-82 model Regal considered an "A" body?  I
>thought that A body's were the 68-73 Skylark/Chevelle/El Camino chassis ...
>????

G-bodies are 1978 and later (up to something like 86 or so).  Going
strictly by bolt on equipement part numbers the A-bodies and G-bodies
are different.  The discussion about torque arms stems for a discussion
on the mustang mailing list about improving the handling of the mustang.
Basically it is impossible for the A/G body rear axle to move through is
full range of motion with-out either deflecting the bushings or bending
the metal.  Obviously the let the bushings deflect.  Unfortunatley
during hard cornering the axle deflects side to side.  Hitting a
significant bump mid-corner could upset the car since the bushings may
unload the stored energy.  So for the reasons mentioned above the cheap
mustang fix was a torque arm and pan-hard bar.  I assumed the same would
be true for the Olds.

I also mentioned I have an additional problem on my Grand Prix.  Due to
the rear being at least 1" narrower than the A-body rear - my old GTO
race tires (read "not enough tread to be safe on the street" :-)) on
standard Crager SS rims don't fit.  Camaro z-28 rims won't fit either -
the rims just hit the frame.  My choice is to get an offset (reverse)
rim or to get a wider axle housing at the same time I get a stronger
one.

I appologize if I confused anyone.
Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 00:09:02 1993
Subject: RE: fuel delivery system still
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5845
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Dirk says:
>I think you mean run the Holley Blue pumps in parralel.  In Serial you'll get 
>more pressure but not that much more volume.  In parralel your pressure will be

No, I really meant in serial!  Look at the average goon at the track!!!!  
You will see 2 pumps in series!  YAK!

(most excellent analysis by JGD deleted ...)
>>My matchbook pressure drop calculation indicates 1/2" should be fine
>>without nitrous.  If you can conveniently run 1" piping or 2 1/2" runs, 

Hmmm...  I knew I would find a use for that 3" exhaust pipe.  :-) :-)
If we put one of our nitrous kits on it, we were going to run a parallel
pump and line anyway.

>>that would remove any question.  If you think your pump is marginal,
>>consider adding an accumulator near the carb instead of a larger pump.
>>Something the size of a propane torch cylinder can deliver a quart
>>instantly.  Since you'll only be using about a quart of fuel during
>>the actual run (assuming a 12 second quarter at 64 gal/hr), this is
>>viable and cheap.  Even more so if you use an accumulator to feed 
>>fuel to the nitrous system.  JGD]

there is _VERY_ limited space, so an accumulator is not feasible here. :-(

>What you must determine is the fuel flow requirements to the carbs (64
>gal/hr lets say 100 gal/hr to be safe) Now what pressure is needed at
>the needle and seat to give you this kind of flow.  
>
>[Absolutely.  It is very important to measure the flow THROUGH the 
>carb needle and seat.  Easy to do.  Just take the float bowl off
>and run the pump while timing how long it takes to fill a 1 gallon jug.

We may just have to try this...

>I learned this lesson the hard way when I started running methanol :-)
>Sewer pipe sized passages are the rule.  JGD]
>
>You'll probably want
>at least 9psi at the carb.  If your accelorating at 1G, your pump must
>overcome the column pressure (15ft or so) of the gasoline.  Using your
>number of .75 grams per cc I think that equals .02703 lbs per cubic
>inch.  15ft of line * 12 to give you inches * .02703 to give you total
>pounds of pressure drop with 1G acceleration.  (Please check my math)
>this gives approximately 4.87 psi lost.  You must also remember that
>there is a certain restriction in the fuel filters (esp if you put one
>before the pump like your supposed to),

Shew, I don't think the stock needles will stay on their seats at
9 psi.  I may be wrong (wouldn't be the first time :-).  

[Understand what he's saying here.  If you're regulating the pressure
at the pump, then extra pressure is necessary.  If you're regulating
at the carb with either type of regulator, the pressure at the
carb stays the same.  The G loading of the fuel column simply means
the pump must be capable of more pressure.  In other words, the 
pump must be capable of supplying sufficient pressure to overcome
flow and "G head" losses and still supply the setpoint pressure to
the carbs.  JGD]

>
>Given this I would go for a system that could pump 100 gph at 15 psi.
>Check out the Jegs catalog - they carry the BG carberators and fuel
>pumps.  They have single pumps that can do 130 gph at 15 psi.  (about 3x
>the cost of the holley stuff) Also they have 4 port regulators with a
>return line.  All neat stuff all a little expensive.  In general Jegs
>seems to have the same price as Summit and I've been real happy with
>their service (everything arrives within 3 days at Maryland anyway).

Jegs and Summit definitely have the niche!  Summit now ships for free,
so that is an extra wrench in the situation.
>
>If you already have the dual Holleys I would still recommend looking at
>the Jegs catalog for their lines of pressure regulators.

I personally would rather run Mallorys, but we have two brand new Holley
blue pumps laying around.  Too late for the regulator, we ordered a 
single-inlet, dual-outlet, single-bypass Mallory unit yesterday.

>
>If your still worried you could always install a fuel pressure gauge.
>Seeing at least 6psi all the way down the track should be plenty.
>
>[And don't forget the G loading will affect your pressure gauge too,
>only it will make the pressure look HIGHER than it really is.  This
>is an instance where an electrical gauge with the transducer on the 
>carb would work much better.  JGD]

At full throttle, who could watch the fuel pressure gauge????
"Grab yer ass and hang on!"

Thanks for the valuable input guys!
jC.

----------
Posted by: emory!fibercom.com!jca (James C. Akers)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 00:15:02 1993
Subject: Fan balance?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5846
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I just had 3 of the 6 fan blades (plastic) break of their hub.

About two weeks ago I had to nip off about 3/16" by 1" from the tips
of each blade to make clearance for some modifications.  The fan was
also pushed out about 1" with a spacer.

The only thing I can think of is that I un-balanced the assembly.

Does this sound reasonable?

If so how would I go about balancing it.  (maybe try to convince a tire
shop to bolt it on a tire balance machine).

Thanks

Rob
gallant@oasys.dt.navy.mil
-------

[Electric motor shops may be more likely to have the proper equipment
to balance a fan because they frequently have to balance motor rotors
and fan blades.

I had to trim the fan on my 280Z to clear the compressor pully for the
Lincoln air conditioner I transplanted ( I like to be cold!)  I 
addressed the balancing problem in reverse.  Assuming the fan to be 
balanced before trimming, I simply weighed the clippings from each
fan blade and trimmed until the clippings weighed the same.  Has worked
for a couple of years now.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!gallant (Robert Gallant)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 00:20:17 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5847
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Path: cwis!mgolden
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: Rear for Regal or Regal 
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
References: 
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 1993 22:18:54 GMT
Lines: 34

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>I'm kind of confused here, I must admit.  Mike has a G body, since he has a
>1979 Regal ... right?  Or am I totally out in left field?

Well, according to my "Haynes" manual (I know, not the most reliable source
of info, but....)  All Regals and Centurys are Buick "A" bodies.  Let me
know if I am wrong.

>The 8.5" rears in the GNs also came in the 442s and some of the wagons.  The
>GNs had 3.42:1 gears and the 442s had 3.73s.  Nothing exotic in these rears,
>just standard four link/upper/lower control arms setup.  Only the GNX rear had
>the panhard bar and shorty ladder bar/torque arm setup.  Since only 547 of
>these were made, I doubt a GNX rear will be readily availble <*grin*>.

This sounds like the way to go.  Does anyone know what the stock gearing is
on my Regal?  Or, basically what I am getting at is will a 3.73 or even
3.42 drop my gas mileage into the gallons per mile range?

  I still don't know if it's the rearend or not, though.. I pulled the cover
last night and nothing looked obviously lunched.  I couldn't see all of the
side gears on the axles, but the ring and pinion didn't have any obvious
chunks out of them.  Also there were no parts lying in the bottom.  Hmmm....
  I yanked on the driveshaft while it was in the car, and the U-joints look
fine.  The clanking noise happens at driveshaft speeds, and only while the
car is coasting.  Hmmmmm...... Very intersting......

I suppose that I could just let it coast at 100 mph and see what breaks! :-)
(Just kidding!  I'm not that brave/foolish!)

--
.--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 10:20:32 1993
Subject: Z halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5848
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Is there anything I need to know to disassemble, clean, and relube a
pair of 240Z halfshafts?

[Only thing I've ever had to do was lubricate the sliding joints to cure
an annoying squeak.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 10:26:24 1993
Subject: MSD Systems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5849
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


	I have recently installed an MSD-6 ignition system in my modified
street car, and only after a half hour of use, the MSD-6 module stopped
working and left me stranded a few miles from home. The MSD-6 system was
hooked up correctly and there was no overheating problems, as it is mounted
a good 3-4 feet from my headers. (I have a straight-6 engine, so my
headers are only on one side of engine.) I just placed an express order
for another MSD module, and I'll be returning mine as 'defective'.

	Has anybody else had any problems with any MSD products? Are they
good quality products? If I'm going to continue to have problems with it,
I'm going to be just as happy running my original stock ignition system.
(In fact, now I keep my original magnetic amplifier module and all
original connection wires in my trunk to be on the safe side.)



                                                    Jason

A dozen, a gross, and a score,
Plus three times the square root of four,
           Divided by seven,
           Plus five times eleven,
Equals nine squared plus zero, no more.

(jcborkow@remus.rutgers.edu)
(jcborkow@trident.usacs.rutgers.edu)

----------
Posted by: 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 14:42:14 1993
Subject: Ignition problem? - NOT! (another question too...)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5850
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Well, after checking a few minor possibilities, and not finding anything, I
sat down and changed the cap, rotor, distributor and wires.  Took it for a
beat run, and it still had the problem.  So, I tossed the 750cfm vacuum
secondaries in the garage and bolted on my 650cfm double pumper with the
Edelbrock power plate, and it worked great.  Clean pulls right to 6500 where
I decided to shift at.  Boy, was I frustrated before that run. :) :)

Anyway, I'd just like to say thanks to everyone for your suggestions and
help, and now I have another question (geez, I never stop, eh? :) )

When I pulled out my old dist, I noticed the gear was beginning to wear some
(it was getting shiny spots...) and I am wondering about the cause... I think
it is the oil pump may be causing it, and I either need a stronger gear or
a new oil pump (but the pump is working great.)  The pump is a super-duper
high volume puppy, that will eaisly flow to 100 (is it psi?) on the guage when
it is cold and you rev it, flows 40-50 at idle when warm, and 60-70 when
running warm and cruising around (and beating on it. :) )

What I think is that this pump may be causing the gear on the dist to wear
due to it's high-pumping capabilities needing more power from the dist to
drive it, does this sound correct?  If so, would changing to a steel or
bronze gear help?  Which would be preferred?  The cam gear looks ok, and this
engine did wear a dist. gear before with this oil pump and another cam, and
that cam gear looked ok too (although the cam was shot...)  We had thought
it was the magneto had screwed up the cam gear, but after checking it out
that doesn't seem to be the case.  So, am I completely off my rocker here
(first time I've had this problem, although I've heard of it...)

Well, thanks again for all the help, this list is probably the best source
of possible answers I've seen yet, especially due to all the different
possibilities everyone comes up with!  Thanks again!!!

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 14:54:38 1993
Subject: Re:  No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5851
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 00:15:32 1993
Date: Tue, 20 Jul 93 23:40 EDT
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
Reply-To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

... somebody wrote:

> Well, according to my "Haynes" manual (I know, not the most reliable source
> of info, but....)  All Regals and Centurys are Buick "A" bodies.  Let me
> know if I am wrong.

 Not wrong, per se, but these are the new FWD "A" bodies that sully the 
memory of the real "A" bodies - Chevelle, LeMans/GTO, Cutlass/442, and
Skylark/GS - you know, the ones with a real frame that you could stuff
any GM drivetrain combo into in the quest for unreasonable acceleration. 

 I found GM's attempt to segue the names from the old RWD platforms to the 
new laughable at the time (remember the coexistent Regal and "Somerset Regal",
Cutlass and "Cutlass Calais"?) but I guess their marketing strategy out-
lasted the memory of the new-car-buying public. Too bad it didn't work out
the other way 'round. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 15:42:47 1993
Subject: Re: Rear for Regal or Regal
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5852
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>>Rear for Regal or Regal 
[.. Seems you have a pretty fast GN.  Do you use a shift kit?...]

Never fast enough <*grin*>  Does pretty good for a street car with all the
power goodies and still gets 22-24 mpg on the highway ... 11.90s-12.0s @
112-113.  I use a B & M shift kit, but the shifts are pretty soft ... crisp,
but not jarring on the street.  With the 200-4R you can adjust the shift with
the TV cable, and this kit maintains this proportional firmness at part
throttle.  At the track it shifts pretty hard at WOT, but I haven't had any
troubles with anything except the tranny input shaft.  I had the tranny
freshened this winter and the input shaft was pretty chewed up.  Replaced it
with a hardened shaft and replaced the torque converter with a new GM lockup
(for some reason they're cheap .. $130 with core!).  Everything seems to be
good as new now!

[...G-bodies are 1978 and later (up to something like 86 or so)....]

At least '87 for the Buicks (last year for GN/RWD Regal).  I think they made
the Monte for another year or so.

[... discussion of cornering forces deleted ...
...I appologize if I confused anyone.
Dirk....]

No problem here ... just making sure I wasn't completely in brain fade mode
yesterday!   <*grin*>

Ken Mosher
Buick GN: "... whoooOOOOOSSSSSH ..."

[Anyone want to see some neat personal letterhead should figure out a 
reason to get Ken to write you a paper letter :-)  JGD]
----------
Posted by: "KEN MOSHER" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 15:52:23 1993
Subject: Re: ADMINISTRIVIA- Hotrod Li
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5853
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

        Reply to:   RE>ADMINISTRIVIA: Hotrod List 
Hi - 

we've been off the air due to a move of my computers to Denver - 

I've been missing out getting mail from the list - what's been happening????

Sharen






----------
Posted by: "Sharen Rund" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 19:42:09 1993
Subject: Re: Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5854
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>I would use fiberglass on the car if the class rules allowed it.
>Any idea on the weight savings you get?

The last car I worked on with acid dipped panels was a '88 or '89
Trans Am set up for Comp Eliminator. Took two tries to get a set of
fenders. First set had big holes from the process. Second set was
a little better, but still had some real thin places. 

Weight savings depends on the gauge metal you are working with. On
the newer cars like this particular Trans Am, the gauge thickness 
is probably around 18. I don't have my Machinists Handbook nearby,
but I think the thickness is around .032". It's safe to mill it 
down to .015-.020" which nets you a 35 - 50% weight reduction.

On older models with heavier gauge panels, a greater reduction is
possible if you go all the way down to the .015" range. 


Good luck! You may want to place your body man on retainer. Keeping
people off the car can be near impossible and the dipped panels
will deform if you as much as breathe on them.

Vic

----------
Posted by: emory!sierra.com!vcook (Victor Cook)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 20:01:27 1993
Subject: Re: MSD Systems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5855
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Jason writes:

>	Has anybody else had any problems with any MSD products? Are they
>good quality products? If I'm going to continue to have problems with it,
>I'm going to be just as happy running my original stock ignition system.
>(In fact, now I keep my original magnetic amplifier module and all
>original connection wires in my trunk to be on the safe side.)

I have had an MSD6A fail on me at about 14 years age.  In my case
it quit working on a rainy day although the weather had nothing to do
with the failure.

The MSD6 boxes are a variation on a capacitive discharge system.  There's
a 1 uf capacitor which is charged rapidly (in a few hundred us) to
several hundred volts; when the ignition signal occurs a thyristor
dumps the charge into the coil.  The charging system uses a couple of
parallelled power transistors, and the trigger system has some timing
and logic in it to develop the multiple sparks.  Charging immediately
follows triggering.

The failure of my box was due to the opening of both base shunt resistors
on the power transistors.  This allowed leakage current from the
preceeding stage to draw DC current rather than pulses through the
output stage.  The DC current became large enough to blow the fusible
link inside the MSD box.  The base shunt resistors are 10 ohms 1/4 watt
and I suspect that this is just a bit close to the resistor's max
ratings.  It would probably be better to use 1/2 watt carbon composition
resistors instead of the 1/4 watt carbon film type that MSD uses.

I understand that the power transistors are the other likely failure
in the MSD boxes.

MSD's reputation for reliability is quite good, but anything which has
as many components as the MSD boxes is bound to fail some time.  I can't
really complain too much, though - 14 years is a long lifetime considering
the hostile environment under the hood.  And MSD fixed it for free, and
in about 2 weeks.

I was fortunate - I had chosen to trigger the MSD box by use of the
existing module inside the HEI distributor.  When my failure occurred
I was able to disconnect the MSD box and restore the stock HEI wiring
just by unplugging and plugging various connectors.  This got me back
to the garage where I could diagnose it at my leisure.

Bob Hale                    hale@brooktree.com

----------
Posted by: emory!brooktree.com!hale (bob hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 20:31:44 1993
Subject: Re: iginition problem-not
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5856
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Wow, I had the same problem with my Holleys. On a 327 w/ mild work, a 780
vacuum secondary ran like crap, on went a 600. It also ran like crap.
After much time spent tuning, I gave up and purchased an Edlebrock (Carter
AFB) 750 and the car picked up horsepower, driveability. The thing is so
easy to tune, you don't need any instructions. These carbs are VERY
popular around here. Edlebrock made a wise decision to retool em.

Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 21 20:42:36 1993
Subject: RE: MSD Systems
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5857
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



>	Has anybody else had any problems with any MSD products? Are they
>good quality products? If I'm going to continue to have problems with it,
>I'm going to be just as happy running my original stock ignition system.
>(In fact, now I keep my original magnetic amplifier module and all
>original connection wires in my trunk to be on the safe side.)

I had a friend who burned out 2 MSD7's in his street car.  We though it might 
stem from the fact that MSD recommends them only for racing but..... There was 
a post a few weeks ago about MSD's being sensative to overvoltage.  Something 
about the voltage exceeding 16V could cause it to blow.  Check your manual and 
maybe (if your willing to risk your warrantee) ask MSD to do a post mortum.

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 08:28:31 1993
Subject: RE: Ignition problem? - NOT! (another question too...)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5858
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yes a heavy duty oil pump could accelorate wear.  

Don't use a bronze bushing.  I understand that they are intended for those 
engines that run billit steel camshafts (ie roller cams) and that they don't 
last too long.  Replacing you distributer gear with a new steel one may give 
you better wear patterns.

To an extent you should see some wear - I know when I prime an engine I 
usually can slow my 1/2 drill down to a crawl.  There is alot of energy used 
up in moving the oil around.  Seems a little shininess shouldn't be a problem.

Maybe someone knows if there is an oil passage that dumps on the distributer 
gear?  Or is there a wear in proceedure?

I just read in Circle track that some restricter plate motors run as little as 
40psi to reduce power loss....

BTW 100psi cold could be a problem - like blowing out oil filters (I've heard 
of this but never experienced or witnessed this YMMV)

Just my .02 (sometimes worth about .01)
Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 08:38:46 1993
Subject: RE: fuel delivery system still
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5859
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

One last thing.

The Holley Blue pump's capacity gets cut in half if the voltage drops to 
9.5 from 12 or 12.5.  Not only does your ignition system need a good 
supply, but, the fuel pump does as well.  Use a good wire with soldered 
connections (don't know how thick but I'd gues that 14 gauge would be 
plenty - good for something like 15Amps - in free air).

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 08:47:06 1993
Subject: No Subject Line
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5860
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Newsgroups: alt.hotrod,wiz.hotrod
Path: cwis!mgolden
From: mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu (Brian Golden)
Subject: Re: No Subject Line
Message-ID: 
Sender: news@news.unomaha.edu (UNO Network News Server)
Organization: University of Nebraska at Omaha
References: 
Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1993 06:27:44 GMT
Lines: 19

hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
>> Well, according to my "Haynes" manual (I know, not the most reliable source
>> of info, but....)  All Regals and Centurys are Buick "A" bodies.  Let me
>> know if I am wrong.

> Not wrong, per se, but these are the new FWD "A" bodies that sully the 
>memory of the real "A" bodies - Chevelle, LeMans/GTO, Cutlass/442, and
>Skylark/GS - you know, the ones with a real frame that you could stuff
>any GM drivetrain combo into in the quest for unreasonable acceleration. 

Nope, this is in my "Haynes" manual for 74-87 Regals and Centurys.  Hmm....
I think somebody was a little asleep at the printers.  And who says that
you can't stuff any drivetrain combo in a '79?  Just look at my sig! :-)

--
.--------------------------.-----------------------------------------------.
| Mike Golden              | '79 Buick Regal:                              |
| mgolden@cwis.unomaha.edu |  Chevy 350cid, TH350, 4bbl Qjet, dual exhaust |
`--------------------------'-----------------------------------------------'

----------
Posted by: emory!dns.unomaha.edu!news (UNO Network News Server)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 20:41:50 1993
Subject: Re: Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5861
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Jul 21, 19:06, The Hotrod List wrote:
> Subject: Re: Acid dipping
>
> >I would use fiberglass on the car if the class rules allowed it.
> >Any idea on the weight savings you get?
>
> Good luck! You may want to place your body man on retainer. Keeping
> people off the car can be near impossible and the dipped panels
> will deform if you as much as breathe on them.
>

Thanks for the reply. It's sounds to me like this isn't the right
application for a car that's going to be banging fenders.

-Bob

-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
| Bob Wise          | INET:622-1322 | MCIMail:468-2222 | Pager:719-577-1928 |
| Unix Consultant   |-------------------------------------------------------|
| Consultant to MCI | Phone:719-535-1322 | Internet:rmwise@apdev.cs.mci.com |
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 20:51:57 1993
Subject: improving performance '79 TA
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5862
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I have a '79 Trans Am with a 403, headers and dual exhaust.
I want some suggestion to improve the cars performance.
It has a stock 403 engine with a 600 Holley. The engine
runs fine so I am not interested in rebuilding. 

I am currently think of replacing the intake manifold and
maybe the carb. Any suggestion of brands and types?

Doug

P.S. The low end seems to be the problem area.


-- 
/*  Douglas Horn (zdxh0a@trc.amoco.com)     (918)660-3247             

    Helpful hints:   Stop programming before it is too late.  */

----------
Posted by: emory!uunet.UU.NET!apctrc!zdxh0a (Douglas Horn)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 21:00:51 1993
Subject: NHRA/SCCA/Score Regs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5863
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Many thanks to JGD, Dave W. and the rest of the hotrod list for
keeping a neophyte knee-deep in good info.

I am looking for a source of NHRA/SCCA or even SCORE rules and
regulations - I assume that they all have a publication that
one can get through the mail; anybody have addresses or phone
numbers?

I am looking for information on safety requirements (i.e.
required rollbar design) as well as classification (AA/FC,
ProComp, etc.) for each of the organizations.

Thanks for the help.

Mike

----------------------  -------------------------
* Internet: mrmike@uiuc.edu       a/k/a   Dr. Michael J. McCaughey       * 
* Snail:    Ribosomal RNA DB Project      131 Burrill Hall               *  
*           University of Illinois        407 S. Goodwin Urbana,IL 61801 * 
--------------- "Are you suggesting coconuts migrate?" -------------------

----------
Posted by: emory!geta.life.uiuc.edu!mrmike (Mike McCaughey)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 21:15:56 1993
Subject: Z halfshafts
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5864
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> [Only thing I've ever had to do was lubricate the sliding joints to
-> cure an annoying squeak.  JGD]

 I guess I'll find out how they come apart, then.  With 20 years of
grunge on 'em, and being so nice and accessible, right there on the
bench and all, I couldn't stand just sticking them into the car without
cleaning them up.  I guess I need to press out the U-joints and check
them too.
                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 21:28:51 1993
Subject: Ignition problem? - NOT! (another question too...)
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5865
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> it is the oil pump may be causing it, and I either need a stronger
-> gear or a new oil pump (but the pump is working great.)  The pump is
-> a super-duper high volume puppy, that will eaisly flow to 100 (is it

 Your best solution is to change to 5w30 or 5w20 oil.  Also use the
long, full-size oil filter to reduce back pressure.  You need a minimum
of 15psi at idle and 35psi at 4000 RPM according to my Chevy truck
service manual.  Personally I'd like to see 25psi or so at idle.  If
you're not turning the engine past 6000 RPM you don't need to worry much
about the oiling system.

 The thinner oil lubricates just as well and flows through the bearings
faster.  You have plenty of oil pump, sounds like.  The more oil you run
through the bearings, the cooler the bearings will be.  The only problem
is that, if your rod side clearances are loose and your rings aren't all
they should be, the extra oil flung out of the rotating assembly can
cause a little extra oil consumption.
                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 21:33:22 1993
Subject: Re:  Flywheel problem -  general question
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5866
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>Dirk - Didn't you talkto Hayes about this problem?  >What did they say?
>
>       Paul

I finally did talk to Hayes after confirming something with the machine shop.  
To use aftermarket steel flywheels (at least a 30lbs Cheby from Hayes) you 
must use special "thin" flywheel bolts.  The bolts with 'taller' heads will 
hit the clutch disk.  Funny how Hayes / Mr Gasket knew right away and no one 
else did...

Dirk

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 21:39:02 1993
Subject: Re: iginition problem-not
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5867
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>Wow, I had the same problem with my Holleys. On a 327 w/ mild work, a 780
>vacuum secondary ran like crap, on went a 600. It also ran like crap.
>After much time spent tuning, I gave up and purchased an Edlebrock (Carter
>AFB) 750 and the car picked up horsepower, driveability. The thing is so
>easy to tune, you don't need any instructions. These carbs are VERY
>popular around here. Edlebrock made a wise decision to retool em.

>Frank

Yeah, I've heard of lots of people having problems with vac. secondary
Holleys, but I was hoping I wouldn't be one of 'em.  I've personally seen
lots of problems with the Edelbrock carb as well, and I hadn't really seen
any problems with the Holleys myself, so I figure'd I'd try it.  Looking back,
I know I should have just put on my reliable Holley 650 dbl pumper the first
time, but I wanted to see if I could get it to run reasonable with the 750 vac,
as it got much better gas mileage.

BTW, in case anyone is interested in it, the Edelbrock power plate for the
Holley carb is great.  My 650 has one in it, and I highly recommend it,
especially for those that like to drive to the strip and race, as you can
re-jet in about 20 seconds with no mess, and you can jet both the idle and
main fuel circuits, and you can change both air and fuel jets, and tons
of other things eaisly.  It's not cheap though, the jets run about $4.50/set,
the plate runs about $100 (but when you buy the plate you get a jet kit
with like 6 or 7 sets of jets in it to fool around with.)  (I also know that
someone makes fuel-bowls now for Holleys so you don't have to rip the carb
in half to change the jets, but it's messy (you have to empty the bowls) and
you can only change the main fuel jets.)

I usually drive it to the track and then change the jets for better power
on the strip, then drive home (sometimes I don't feel like re-jetting for
the street, and drive it home with the monster jets in - gas mileage sucks,
but stoplight racing is great! :) :) )  Matter of fact, I have to rejet
the thing right now, as I decided to drive it to work, and it sucked down
just a little *too* much gas on the way here... :) :)

Anyway, it's running pretty good now, so now all I have to do is put in the
driveshaft loop to run it at the track...  Thanks for all the help, I'll
post how it goes!!

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 22 21:42:56 1993
Subject: Re: Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5868
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article <5-4x-4m@dixie.com> emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
writes:
>I would use fiberglass on the car if the class rules allowed it.
>Any idea on the weight savings you get?

	As long as you're going to go to the trouble of making fiberglass
body panels, why not use composities instead?  Carbon fiber makes fiberglass
look like lead in a weight comparison, and is stronger to boot.

	No, I don't know how to do it.  Yes, I would like to learn (yoo hoo,
Mr. Andersen?  :-)

Later,
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.
----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 04:16:11 1993
Subject: Re: My Straight Six
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5869
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>   Lastly, just out of curiosity, where can I get information on 
> the different racing classes and the official rules of NASCAR 
> racing?


	Jason,

 Here is the address and phone number.

NATIONAL ASSOCIATION for STOCK CAR AUTO RACING, inc.
POST OFFICE BOX 2875 - DAYTONA BEACH, FLORIDA - 32120-2875

PH# 904-253-0611 (NASCAR HEADQUARTERS)

		SEAN.



----------
Posted by: emory!rathman.mfg.sgi.com!sean (Sean Whitacre)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 04:44:18 1993
Subject: Carbon Fiber was Re: Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5870
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Thu, 22 Jul 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> In article <5-4x-4m@dixie.com> emory!mcigate.apdev.cs.mci.com!rmwise (Bob_Wise)
> writes:
> 	As long as you're going to go to the trouble of making fiberglass
> body panels, why not use composities instead?  Carbon fiber makes fiberglass
> look like lead in a weight comparison, and is stronger to boot.
> 
> 	No, I don't know how to do it.  Yes, I would like to learn (yoo hoo,
> Mr. Andersen?  :-)
> 

If you replaced steel directly with fiberglass (by thickness), you are 
probably looking at about just under 1/3 the weight.  Going to carbon
fiber would net about 1/5 the weight (as steel).  In general, carbon fiber
has slightly lower stiffness than steel (for a given thickness) and slightly
lower strength, however it weighs about 1/5 what steel does by volume.
Newer high performance fibers can yield prepregs which far exceed steel's
stiffness, and the fibers alone can have strengths approaching 1 
MILLION psi in tension.  Unfortunately their cost FAR exceeds that of steel.

Glass has similar stiffness to aluminum (about 1/3 that of steel), however
it typically has strengths equal or greater than some of the "standard"
carbon fiber prepregs.  Don't underestimate fiberglass.  When used properly
it can approach the structural efficiency of carbon fiber, and can 
do it for a LOT less money.

As for cost, fiberglass will probably be about an order of magnitude
more expensive than steel by weight, and carbon fiber is about an
order of magnitude more than glass by weight.

If I were to make car body panels, I would probably make a relatively
thin laminate of glass/cf or kevlar/cf (glass or kevlar for durability
and damage/impact resistance).  I would then selectively stiffen the 
panels from the back side using foam strips and carbon fiber to form
small "hat" stiffeners or ribs. This is what I plan to do on my
Ducati (which has VERY heavy fiberglass) when my collection of 
round tuits replenishes itself...

As for making the stuff, one of these days I am really going to 
write that home-shop composites manufacturing article for PE...
The longer I wait the more experience I will have and the more I'll
be able to pass on to the faithful, yeah that's it ;-)

Steve
--
 Steve Andersen  DoD #0239                               andersen@me.udel.edu
 (302) 832-0136                                     andersen@zr1.ccm.udel.edu
 1992 Ducati 907 I.E.                                      1987 Yamaha SRX250
 "Life is simply a consequence of the complexities of carbon chemistry..."

[Great! I'll mention in passing that I just came in from sanding the 
latest layer on a fiberglass/epoxy intake manifold I'm making for my
Datsun Z.  I'm using the lost wax method.  This has worked VERY well.
It involves making the core molds out of paraffin and then melting
the paraffin out after the glass is applied and cured.  This process
is easy, moderately fast and REAL cheap.  I have about $20 in the
manifold.  I'll be writing a construction article on this techinque
too.  

Oh, BTW, Got the PE mags from the printer yesterday.  Hope to have 'em
addressed and stuffed by the weekend.  Finally!!  I (if I can be so
humble :-) think it was worth the wait.  JGD]

----------
Posted by: Steve Andersen 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 14:41:23 1993
Subject: improving performance '79 TA
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5871
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> It has a stock 403 engine with a 600 Holley. The engine
-> runs fine so I am not interested in rebuilding.

 The 403 is radically oversquare - 4.3-odd bore, 3.3-ish stroke.
It'd be a rev monster if it weren't for the smog gear.

 I'd go for a good intake manifold and the largest cam I could live with
on the street.  Dual exhausts if you don't already have them, headers if
you can find them - Olds-powered Pontiacs were only made a few years.
                                                                                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 14:54:41 1993
Subject: NHRA/SCCA/Score Regs
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5872
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I am looking for a source of NHRA/SCCA or even SCORE rules and
-> regulations - I assume that they all have a publication that
-> one can get through the mail; anybody have addresses or phone
-> numbers?

 I don't have them, but if you'll post the information when you get it,
I'll add it to the Vendor List.
                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 15:02:58 1993
Subject: Carbon Fiber was Re: Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5873
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> If you replaced steel directly with fiberglass (by thickness), you
-> are probably looking at about just under 1/3 the weight.

 Yeah, but there are practical difficulties in fabricating and actually
using fiberglass panels .030 thick.  Having the bodywork rippling in the
wind is *so* tacky...


-> As for cost, fiberglass will probably be about an order of magnitude
-> more expensive than steel by weight, and carbon fiber is about an
-> order of magnitude more than glass by weight.

 Yes, but consider how much CF you'll need to make an average fender -
one pound?  Two?  And you can buy it in tiny quantities.  Now consider
the fabrication cost - plywood, plaster, and epoxy for the molds, vs
humongous steel dies and press to make the steel fender, or an English
wheel, body dollies, and lots of time and determination.


-> Datsun Z.  I'm using the lost wax method.  This has worked VERY well.
-> It involves making the core molds out of paraffin and then melting
-> the paraffin out after the glass is applied and cured.  This process

 So that's why you've been so quiet lately, eh?

[Yeah.  And getting this %^@#$#$ magazine printed.  Never thought it
would be so hard getting ink on paper.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 15:08:18 1993
Subject: More about Holleys
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5874
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 I've been dicking around with a 750 Holley too, trying to get it set up
right for general street use. I think my number one problem is the idle
circuit; it won't go lean enough and I seem to be cruising at a pretty
small throttle angle, where the idle transfer slot is still affecting
cruise mixture. If I can get the throttle open under load I can see the
primary mixture being about right (using the O2 sensor I welded in to the
exhaust manifold tail) but anywhere else things are too rich. I went and
drilled the butterflies so that idle was not up on the primaries; the main 
effect is that now primary jetting has no effect on idle mixture. Before
I had to crack the throttle plates open a fair bit, and the idle mixture
depended less on the idle circuit. Now it's idle circuit dominated but 
the idle circuit is very rich (O2 sensor pegged high).

 I guess my next step is to find a jet drill assortment and open up the 
air bushings bit by bit. I've never run across any jet drill assortments
for sale; our neighbors old man had two sets (used to work for the gas
company) but they wouldn't sell 'em. What kind of place would sell these
little dudes? Gotta get some more air into the idle emulsion and on a
Holley all you can do is drill out or pull and replace these air bushings.

[Check Jensen tools, also Snap-on.  I have another toolset that is at
least as handy.  It is a set of precision micro-reamers.  These
were originally intended for reaming watch and clock hands, pressure
gauge hands and so on.  They are tapered reamers that range in size from
about 0.015 to 1/8".  I think Jensen carries these things.  Not sure
since I *ahem* liberated mine from the government 20 years ago :-)
JGD]

 Other thing that's baffling me is that I've picked up some engine knock 
under load. Reason it's baffling is that it's come on as I went -up- in
primary jet size, going richer than I used to run. I've got the timing
set dead on, etc. and when it knocks the O2 sensor sez it's still way
rich. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 15:14:02 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-28*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5875
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, and my favorite bartender. PLEASE confirm dates and times 
with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK

Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/23     1:30-3:25PM      ENC
This Week In NASCAR, Talladega (T)    7/23     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Motoworld                             7/23     6:00-6:30PM      ESPN
MOTORCYCLE GRAND PRIX, HOLLAND (T)    7/24     6:00-7:00AM      ESPN
World Of Speed & Beauty (corvettes)   7/24     9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (selling used cars)7/24     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
HYDROPLANE RACING, KANSAS CITY (T)    7/24     12:00-1:00PM     ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, ELKART LAKE (T)      7/24     1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
PIKES PEAK (T)                        7/24     1:30-2:30PM      ESPN
FIREHAWK/SUPERCAR SERIES, INDIANAPOLIS7/24     1:30-2:00PM      TNN
BUSCH GN, TALLADEGA (L)               7/24     2:00-4:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today, Denver (L)                7/24     4:30-5:00PM      TNN
MotorWeek '93 (driver's choice awards)7/24     5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
Inside Winston Cup                    7/24     5:00-5:30PM      TNN
IMSA, EXXON SUPREME, MONTEREY (L)     7/24     6:00-7:00PM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             7/24     7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
USAC SPRINTS & FASTMASTERS, INDY (L)  7/24     8:00-11:00PM     ESPN
SpeedWeek                             7/25     2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             7/25     3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
IHRA, SPORTSMAN SERIES, HUNTSVILLE (T)7/25     3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
IHRA, NITROUS NATIONALS (T)           7/25     4:00-5:00AM      ESPN
SAAB PRO SERIES, ELKART LAKE (T)      7/25     5:00-5:30AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (L)    7/25     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
Truckin' USA (visits IMS)             7/25     9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/25     9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Don Prudhomme)               7/25     10:00-10:30AM    TNN
NHRA Today                            7/25     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Cycle World                           7/25     10:30-11:30AM    HTS*
Inside Winston Cup                    7/25     11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/25    11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Winston Cup Weekly                    7/25    11:30AM-12:30PM   HTS*
WINSTON CUP, TALLADEGA (L)            7/25     1:00-4:30PM      CBS
AMA, CAMEL CLASSIC I, LOUDON (T)      7/25     2:00-3:25PM      TNN
INDY LIGHTS, CLEVELAND (T)            7/25     2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
RaceDay Update (L)                    7/25     3:25-3:30PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (snowmobiles) 7/25     3:30-4:00PM      TNN
IMSA GT, LAGUNA SECA (L)              7/25     4:00-6:00PM      NBC
Inside Winston Cup                    7/25     4:00-4:30PM      TNN
Winners (Don Prudhomme)               7/25     4:30-5:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (selling used cars)7/25     6:30-7:00PM      TNN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, DENVER (L) 7/25     7:00-8:00PM      TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (corvettes)   7/25     8:00-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay (L)                           7/25     8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine                    7/25     11:00-11:30PM    TNN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (SD)   7/25    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
Trucks & Tractor Power                7/25    11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/25    11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
Truckin' USA                          7/26     12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (corvettes)   7/26     12:30-1:00AM     TNN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, DENVER (T) 7/26     1:00-2:00AM      TNN
USAC SPRINTS & FASTMASTERS, INDY (T)  7/26     3:00-5:00AM      ESPN
INDY LIGHTS, PORTLAND (T)             7/26     3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, TORONTO (T)          7/27     12:30-1:00AM     ESPN
INDY LIGHTS, TORONTO (T)              7/27     1:00-1:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/27     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Checkered Flag (IndyCars @ Toronto)   7/27     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
FORMULA 1, HOCKENHEIM, GERMANY (T)    7/27     3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/28     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Movie: Heart Like A Wheel             7/28     12:00-2:00PM     ENC
MOTORCYCLE RACING, ISLE OF MAN (T)    7/28     3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/29     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
JET SKI RACING, ATLANTA (T)           7/29     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
TOYOTA ATLANTIC, TORONTO (T)          7/29     3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/29     3:30-4:00AM      MTV
HYDROPLANE RACING, KANSAS CITY (T)    7/29     4:00-5:00AM      ESPN
OPBRA, POWERBOAT RACING, ERIE (T)     7/29     12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Cycle World                           7/29     1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/29     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Prime Time Motorsports                7/29     3:00-3:30PM      HTS*
MotorWeek '93 (driver's choice awards)7/29     8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
MIDGET WORLD CHALLENGE (T)            7/29     7:00-8:00PM      HTS*
Cycle World                           7/29     8:00-9:00PM      HTS*
This Week In NASCAR                   7/29    11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     7/30     12:00-1:00AM     HTS*
MOTORCYCLE GRAND PRIX, SPAIN (T)      7/30     12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Cycle World                           7/30     1:00-2:00AM      HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 7/30     1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             7/30     1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
JET SKI RACING, ATLANTA (T)           7/30     4:30-5:00AM      ESPN
This Week In NASCAR                   7/30     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*

		  ----------COMING EVENTS---------- 

S.N.THUNDER (L)                       7/31     8:00PM           ESPN
SCCA TRANS-AM, SEARS POINT (T)        8/1      12:00PM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 8/1      2:00-5:00PM      ABC
ASA, HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY,TOPEKA (L)8/1      2:00-4:30PM      TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (SD)                8/1     11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
IMSA GTP, PORTLAND (T)                8/2      12:00AM          ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 8/2      2:30AM           TSN
BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (T)            8/7      8:00-10:00PM     ESPN
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       8/7      10:00PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         8/8      1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   8/8      3:30-5:30PM   ESPN,TSN
F ATLANTIC, NEW HAMPSHIRE (T)         8/9      7:30PM           TSN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (L)                8/14     1:00PM           ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        8/14     8:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  8/14    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      8/15     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             8/15     12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA NATIONALS, SONOMA (T)            8/15     3:30PM           ESPN
F ATLANTIC, TROIS RIVIERES (L)        8/15     5:00PM           TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     8/15    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
BUSCH GN, NEW HAMPSHIRE (L)           8/22     1:00-4:00PM      TNN
NHRA NATIONALS, SEATTLE (T)           8/22     1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (L)             8/22     2:00-4:30PM   ESPN,TSN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (SD)            8/22    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
SCCA TRANS-AM, LIME ROCK (T)          8/28     1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (T)                 8/28     4:30PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              8/28     7:30PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, SPA, BELGIUM (L)           8/29     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
NHRA NATIONALS, BRAINERD (T)          8/29     1:00PM           ESPN
ASA, I-70 SPEEDWAY, ODESSA, MO (L)    8/29     2:00-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (L)                8/29     4:00-6:00PM    ESPN,CBC
FORMULA 1, SPA, BELGIUM (SD)          8/29    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
F ATLANTIC, VANCOUVER (T)             8/30     5:30PM           TSN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (T)                8/30     9:00-11:00PM     ESPN
IHRA NATIONALS, SCRIBNER (T)          8/31     12:30AM          ESPN

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek '93" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public TV stations around the US. If interested, 
please check the listings for your local public TV
station(s).  [Also please remember to send them a couple $'s if you
like the show. Those folks will always appreciate the help.]

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 16:39:26 1993
Subject: Carbon Fiber was Re: Acid dipping
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5876
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	...
     So that's why you've been so quiet lately, eh?

    [Yeah.  And getting this %^@#$#$ magazine printed.  Never thought it
    would be so hard getting ink on paper.  JGD]

It _is_ easy, it's the _placement_ that's tricky!

I'll be waitin' by the mailbox....

  bruce
  miller@cam.nist.gov
  

----------
Posted by: Bruce R. Miller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 23 18:42:57 1993
Subject: Mustang 5.0: Removing Cats
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5877
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The car:  '91 Mustang LX Hatchback AOD.  

The Current Mods:  K&N Air Filter, Flowmaster 2-Chambers, Timing @ 12 deg,
                   ADS PowerChip, 225/50/16 inch tires, Removed Air Intake 
                   Silencer.

The Question:
   Though I haven't actually gotten a good run down the track, I expect my 
current performance to be at about 15.2 to 15.3 second ETs (the AOD was a 
mistake!) once I get the power braking down etc.
   How much of a benefit would I get from removing either 2 or all four cats 
from the exhaust?  I was told by some that it would get me as much as 3 
tenths of a second.
   Also, (keeping the Flowmasters in mind) how much louder would the car get?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

Thanks,


+----------------------------------------------------------------------------+
| I think I think, therefore, I think I am, I think!   - Unknown             |
+-----------------------------+----------------------------------------------+
| Cougar (Dan Neuwirth)       | All  views expressed  in this message are my |
|                             | own,  and  are  not  necessarily   those  of |
| Symantec Peter Norton Group | Symantec Peter Norton Group.                 |
| Engineering Department      |                                              |
| 2500 Broadway Suite 200     |                                              |
| Santa Monica, Ca. 90404     |                                              |
+-----------------------------+----------------------------------------------+

----------
Posted by: emory!symantec.com!danielne (Cougar)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 24 10:28:08 1993
Subject: Ford FE 6-V ForSale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5878
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


For Sale: Edelbrock 380 Tri-power for Ford FE V-8's.  Drilled for  
Stromberg carburetors and old-style press-in rear breather.  Like new.   
Never bolted on.  In a box since about 1958.
	Respond by email.  tomcap@cco.caltech.edu

----------
Posted by: emory!rutgers.edu!news
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 24 10:33:17 1993
Subject: please review: Holley tuning in depth
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5879
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Just like to post the way I tune Holley's Please make any corrections or
comments

Assuming the car is in running condition and you want to fine tune the
carb:

1) Verify fuel level in bowl - some center hung float bowls have a check
hole.  All others are pretty much reduced to guessing (make sure fuel
pressure is not to great 6psi- street and float height is correct.

2) Insure that you have .015-.020 inch of travel left on the accelorator
pump lever at WOT.

3) Check to make sure the throttle opens all the way when the pedal is
to the metal.  (always forget this one).

4) Tune the accelorator pump.  If the car hesitates off the line (engine
feels like it died) suspect that your not getting enough gas.  This
indicates that the accelorator pump circuit is not giving enough gas.
If it: a) goes and then boggs - you don't have enough accelorator pump
capacity or the pump shooter size is too large.  Try different cams to
increase the pump volume.  Next go with 50cc pumps.  b) if it bogs the
goes - you don't have enough flow - you must enlarge the accelerattor
pump shooters until bog goes away or 'a' occures.  Go in steps of .002 -
the stamped number on removable shooters is in thousands of an inch.

- for this it is important that you do full-throttle acceloration test
and that your ignition timing is set correctly.

5) Power Valve should be selected on the basis of engine vacumm at part
throttle cruising - For example if the minimum vacumm you see at part
throttle is 6 inches Hg - try a 50 power valve

6) To tune the jets either go to a drag strip and use top speed as an
indicator or use top gear (or higher than 1st gear) acceloration runs
from low rpm range to max rpm.  For the second methode I've done
3500-6500 in 3rd gear - and timing with a stop watch.  (Yes this was
done late at night - probably affected the tuning somewhat).  For most
square bore Holleys use the same jets one primary and secondaries.  For
a little better milage you could go leaner on the primaries and an equal
number richer on secondaries.

Thats about it.  For wild camshafts you have to have more guts:

7)When you tune for a radical cam you must insure that the idle transfer
slot is barely uncovered at idle.  Failure to do so means a stumble when
going off idle.  Tune the engine for best idle and be careful about
choosing power valves.  If the transfer slot is expossed by more than
.040 inches your into the idle transfer circuit and the idle mixture
screws will not have any affect (or severly reduced affect - or effect?
damm :-)).  This will also cause a long flat spot (bog).  You will need
to drill a hole in the throttle blades - sort of a controlled vacumm
leak.  Start with a 1/16" drill and go up 1/32" each time.  If you go to
large you'll have to fill the hole and start over - told you this takes
guts esp.  on a brand new $200 carb.  After you drilled out the holes
reset the throttle to give you the appropriate idle transfer slot
opening (less than .040).  Go back to the begining of step 7 and try
everything again.

If the throttle blades are closed too far (no idle transfer slot
visable) you will have an off-idle bog.  The cure involves chamfering
throttle plate underside to expose the slot.  This will expose the
proper amount of the idle transfer slot.

8)If at this point the idle mixture screws don't provide the control
over the idle quality you will have to either enlarge or reduce the
idle-feed restrictions.  Enlarging them will cause the idle mixture to
go richer and will cause the mixture screws to be more sensitive.  Care
must be taken as these idle-well restrictions are the only control of
the off-idle transfer slot's mixture.  You must balance the idle mixture
with the off-idle mixture.  Normally the off-idle mixture will be fine
if the idle mixture is O.K.  For adjusting the idle well restrictions
use wire drills in .002 incraments.  Go slow!!!

This should let the engine run smoothly up to about 3000rpm (noload)
without stumbling.  Stumblin indicates slightly lean mixture.  Try
adjusting the idle mixture screws to compensate.  If you have to turn
them out more than 1/2 a turn you either don't have big enough jets or
the idle well restriction is still too small.

Disconnect the accelorator pump to keep it from richening the mixture
during no-load test.

9) If you find yourself leaning out the jets for part throttle
drivability you may need to increase the fuel flow to the power valve.
This can be done by either installing a larger powervavle (specialty
high flow one) or enlarging the power vavle channel restrictions.

In general its easy to make holes larger and really a pain to make them
smaller...

SO WHAT DO YOU THINK...

PLEASE COMMENT AND I'LL INCORPERATE THE GOOD ONES AND REPOST

DIRK

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 24 10:39:22 1993
Subject: Re: More about Holleys
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5880
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I want to know how yuo connected up the O2 sensor
did you use a ohm meter???
I would like to do the same and use a meter that could be put in the dash
so i could see the mixture at all loads
if you used a off the shelf O2 sensor
what is the the restance or voltage at the correct mixture and 
does it the voltage or restance go up or down for a rich mix

thx
	-keith
	keithhar@eb5ts4.ebay.Sun.COM

----------
Posted by: emory!ebay.sun.com!Keith.Hargrove (Keith Hargrove)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 24 10:44:02 1993
Subject: quick take-up master cylinders
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5881
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Back a few years ago, the hot item was the quick take-up master
cylinder.  It was originally designed to work in conjunction with new
style calipers, which used special seals which retracted the piston a
little more than usual to prevent brake drag and give better mileage,
etc.  Since this caused unusually great pedal travel, GM designed the
"quick take-up" master cylinder.  It used a large (1.5 inch or so)
piston to move lots of fluid at first, then once the slack was taken up
in the mechanical parts, normal pressure was exerted by the normal sized
(1.0 inch-ish) main piston.

 We ran a quick take-up unit in Monzilla, which gave a very high, firm
pedal feel with the normal L-body brakes.

 I've noticed that the quick take-up hasn't made it across the entire GM
line - for example, the Corvette doesn't use it, nor do many of the cars
I've looked at.  Is there some deficiency in the design, or is this just
cost-cutting on the part of GM?
                                                                                                              

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 24 11:41:54 1993
Subject: Re: improving performance '79 TA
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5882
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


In article , hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List) writes:
|> 
|> I have a '79 Trans Am with a 403, headers and dual exhaust.
|> I want some suggestion to improve the cars performance.
|> It has a stock 403 engine with a 600 Holley. The engine
|> runs fine so I am not interested in rebuilding. 
|> 
|> I am currently think of replacing the intake manifold and
|> maybe the carb. Any suggestion of brands and types?
|> 
|> Doug
|> 
|> P.S. The low end seems to be the problem area.
|> 
|> 

Does this car have an automatic?  The TA powerplants in stock form
are real torque monsters. They deliver peak torque in the 1600- 2400
rpm range.  The low stall speed of the torque converter is what will
dogs you down until you get the engine above 2200 rpm.  

The other thing is the available gear ratios of the TH350 tranny (which
was *the* automatic GM put into later 2nd generation F bodies. 1st-2.52:1,
2nd-1.52:1, 3rd 1:1.  If you are lucky your car has the performance axle
3.23:1 positraction.  But, still int 1st gear that only gives you a 8.14:1
overall ratio which is not very competitive.

A higher stall torque converter will help launch much better. But be prepared
for more slippage at low engine speeds, increased heat, and slightly reduced
gas mileage in city driving.

If your TA has a manual tranny, the launch will depend on your technique and
skill. On the plus side there are aftermarket gear sets for manual shift boxes.

With my 77 TA, I chose to beef the engine (Pont 400) for increased power
 
   (pardon my digression)  
    Pontiac 400cid .030 over mild performance cam:(272/282 dur,
    int=214 deg @ .050/.465" lift, Exh=224 deg @.050/.480" lift)
    It has forged aluminum pistons and runs at 9.0:1 compression.
    Induction starts with the open scoop at the base of the wind-
    shield through a K&N cotton/wire mesh air filter, Holley 650 
    vac sec carb.  Original stock Pontiac manifold. 
    Exhaust begins at 1-5/8" Hooker headers w/ 3" collectors and 
    includes a crossover pipe. The dual exhaust is 2-1/4" and
    uses high flow mufflers.

It runs 0-60mph in 5.8 secs and passes the 1/4 mi in 14.28 @ 102.1 mph
lauching still sucks with 3.08 open axle and stock converter TH350, but
I have gotten the 60 foot time down to the 2.55 second range.

If I were going to make any further changes I'd probably go with the 
manifold swap (daily driver you know)  Edlebrock's Torker would be about
right for the street driven Pontiac. Esp since the engine never sees rpms
much above 5000. I'd keep the Holley, Ive had good success setting up the
fuel delivery to match my setup. Tons of spare parts available and a mountain
of books on how to correctly tune, modify, calibrate the Holleys.
  
$0.02

EricY

----------
Posted by: (Eric Youngblood)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul 25 20:37:18 1993
Subject: speed parts for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5883
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I've got a couple-a speed parts for sale.


1. Polished aluminum 600 cfm Edelbrock carb (with tuning kit).
(non-emission with electric choke.)

This carb was only on my car for one summer (I hardly drove it
at all that summer :-( so it's practically brand new.)
$150.00 O.B.O. (you pay shipping)


Summit forged steel crank for small Chebby.
Never even been unwrapped!! 
$90.00 O.B.O. (you pay shipping)


If anyone's interested you can reach me at the address below.
                      
                                          
                     
                     |                    
                     | David Gunsul       
                     | mgwhiz!mogun!dcg@mgweed.att.com
                     |------------------------------------------------
                     |  It's amazing what $2,500 worth of big block
                     |  will do to $30,000 worth of high technology. 


----------
Posted by: emory!mgweed.att.com!mgwhiz!mogun!dcg
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 26 12:46:06 1993
Subject: Re: More about Holleys
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5884
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> O2 Sensor setup, etc <

 I drilled a hole in the cast iron exhaust manifold right before the outlet
flange, and reamed it out until an 18mm anti-fouling spark plug adaptor was
a hammer fit. I ground down the adaptor until its inner end was flush with
the interior wall of the manifold, and then welded it in place. 

 The O2 sensor I used was a freebie 1-wire type. A 3-wire is better for
reasons I'll go into in a bit, but costs more. I picked up ground locally
using a valve cover bolt through a loop soldered in the end of the ground 
wire, and connected the O2 sensor to its mate, solder and shrink-wrap.
I used some automotive "trailer wire" (the 4-conductor ribbon used for 
hooking up auxiliary lights etc.) which seems to be taking the heat 
and grease reasonably well. The reason for taking a local (engine block)
ground is to minimize any error induced by body/block return currents
and any voltage offset that might develop from loads like A/C, lights
if you used the dash as ground.

 I am using a spare analog VOM to read O2 volts; it seems to be working 
well enough, even though I've been told that the O2 sensor needs a very
high load impedance. This meter has about 100Kohms (50K/volt, 2.5V scale)
and I think it's about on the edge of affecting the sensor output
accuracy; if I switch to the next lower scale I get a slightly lower
value reading indicating Zload sensitivity to me.

 The reading ranges from 0 to 1V (approx), with 0 indicating lean and 1V
indicating rich. 0.5 is supposed to be stoichemetric. When warm I seem
to be pegged rich, or close to it, except for a "hole" during throttle
transitions. 

 The one-wire sensor depends on exhaust heat to activate it; the element
has to be pretty hot to develop any voltage and low temperatures result
in a reduction or absence of output. I find that there's not enough heat 
at idle to keep the sensor fired up. If I idle for more than a few seconds
the output voltage starts to decay. The other thing is that it takes a
while to start reading. For a tailpipe test rig I made, a 3-wire was a
necessity since by that point there's not enough heat ever.

 For a permanent installation I think the best solution would be to use
a small panel meter with a single-supply op amp as a unity gain buffer
and a calibration resistor to get 1V full scale. A shunt resistor from 
amplifier output to ground might help the amp in the low end. I tried 
cobbling up a bar graph display using an old LM3914 I had in the parts-
is-parts tin but it seems to have developed an attitude. For some
reason Radio Shack has stopped selling these although they still sell the
bar graph displays. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 26 12:56:17 1993
Subject: Re:  please review: Holley tuning in depth
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5885
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

>5) Power Valve should be selected on the basis of engine vacumm at part
>throttle cruising - For example if the minimum vacumm you see at part
>throttle is 6 inches Hg - try a 50 power valve

 By way of note, Holley designates power valves numerically as 10X the
power valves 'crack pressure' or vacuum. Stock is often #85, which
means it opens up at 8.5" of vacuum. I've tried #65 (6.5") with some
jets in an attempt to keep out of the power valve during highway cruising.
A vacuum gauge is a necessary tool to help you determine where you ought
to be. I'd pick 2" lower than your favorite highway speed into the wind
puts you.

>7)When you tune for a radical cam you must insure that the idle transfer
>slot is barely uncovered at idle.  Failure to do so means a stumble when
>going off idle.  Tune the engine for best idle and be careful about
>choosing power valves.  If the transfer slot is expossed by more than
>.040 inches your into the idle transfer circuit and the idle mixture
>screws will not have any affect (or severly reduced affect - or effect?
>damm :-)).  This will also cause a long flat spot (bog).  You will need
>to drill a hole in the throttle blades - sort of a controlled vacumm
>leak.  Start with a 1/16" drill and go up 1/32" each time.  If you go to
>large you'll have to fill the hole and start over - told you this takes
>guts esp.  on a brand new $200 carb.  After you drilled out the holes
>reset the throttle to give you the appropriate idle transfer slot
>opening (less than .040).  Go back to the begining of step 7 and try
>everything again.

>If the throttle blades are closed too far (no idle transfer slot
>visable) you will have an off-idle bog.  The cure involves chamfering
>throttle plate underside to expose the slot.  This will expose the
>proper amount of the idle transfer slot.

 I think "exposed" in terms of the transfer slot means exposed to manifold
vacuum; when you take these guidelines for idle throttle position I think
you need to be looking at the carb from the bottom (?).

>8)If at this point the idle mixture screws don't provide the control
>over the idle quality you will have to either enlarge or reduce the
>idle-feed restrictions.  Enlarging them will cause the idle mixture to
>go richer and will cause the mixture screws to be more sensitive.  Care
>must be taken as these idle-well restrictions are the only control of
>the off-idle transfer slot's mixture.  You must balance the idle mixture
>with the off-idle mixture.  Normally the off-idle mixture will be fine
>if the idle mixture is O.K.  For adjusting the idle well restrictions
>use wire drills in .002 incraments.  Go slow!!!

 I thought the restrictors were in control of the air entrained into the
idle emulsion. Or maybe I'm confusing the idle feed restrictors with 
air corrector bushings? Maybe time to RTFM again.

>This should let the engine run smoothly up to about 3000rpm (noload)
>without stumbling.  Stumblin indicates slightly lean mixture.  Try
>adjusting the idle mixture screws to compensate.  If you have to turn
>them out more than 1/2 a turn you either don't have big enough jets or
>the idle well restriction is still too small.

 Seems like a waste to have ten turns of adjustment range and 9.5 turns
have no effect. That's where I'm at now. Range is from rich to way too.
I need to get more air in there somehow.

>9) If you find yourself leaning out the jets for part throttle
>drivability you may need to increase the fuel flow to the power valve.
>This can be done by either installing a larger powervavle (specialty
>high flow one) or enlarging the power vavle channel restrictions.

 This refers to wanting to keep the same (or more) WOT richness; if you
cut the primaries' contribution you have to make it up either in the
secondaries or more appropriately in the power enrichment circuit. The
power valve is simply on-off and does not control the magnitude of fuel
flow, just its presence. There are two little passages exiting the power 
valve cavity that set the flow; you can enlarge them only by drilling
since they're directly in the casting. If you go to far you can get 
bushings.

 There are two-stage power valves but they are expensive ($39 vs. $3.99)
and do not allow as much full-out flow (or so the book says; the PVCR
size still ought to dominate as far as I can see) but provide two levels
of power enrichment, one for moderate load and one for full-out. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 26 17:45:05 1993
Subject: D
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5886
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 It's starting to look like moving the brakes behind the spindle is a
good idea.  I can pick up another set of Z-car rear stubs, which have a
convenient inner drive flange, then mount the rotor with a flat adapter.
The upright itself will have to be a weldment - turn the bearing holder
out of bar stock, then form the box from 16 guage sheet.  Looks like a
good time to buy/build a small metal brake, though there'd be no trouble
bending such small pieces with a hammer.

 Ball joint attachment has me scratching my head at the moment.  Most
race cars just have a stud, which works fine when you're using a rod
end, but I'm using ball joints.  I may have to go to a Chevelle style
bolt-in ball joint, bolted to the upright instead of the A-arm, and put
the taper section in the A-arm.  Unfortunately, that raises the ball
'way up, which is definitely not what I want.
                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 26 17:53:18 1993
Subject: A-arm Weldments
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5887
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



> I need to fabricate some A-arms for an autocross car.  At first I'd
>hoped to find something about the right size from the junkyard or the
>circle track places, but no luck.  I'll need to make some.

>........

> Anyone have any experiences building A-arms?  I have an innate distrust
>of welded joints, but those NASCAR whales and F5000 cars do it.

Dave:

   I race Sportsman and Super Late Model stock cars on various circle tracks
located in Michigan, Ohio and northern Indiana. We use welded A-arms on our
Super Late Model which is 2650 lbs on 11 inch Hoosier racing tires (extremely
sticky), 51% front weight, 1.2 g through the turns on a 3/8 mile banked
asphalt track. In eight years using the same A-arms we have experienced
absolutely no problems. Most of the Late Model drivers use the same type arms
>from various manufacturers; Port City racing, Howe manufacturing Left Hander
racing chassis, etc. I have never seen an A-arm break at the weld when
someone has crashed their car. The A-arms usually bend (some don't even look   
like they were ever an A-arm) but the welds stay in tact. A properly welded
joint will be stronger than the base material. The key is type of base metal,
type of filler (wire, rod, etc.), and process (heat, speed, fit, etc).

To give you an idea of how confident I am in the A-arms we use on our stock
cars; I am building a 35 Chevy Master 2-door sedan with a front suspension of
my own design (Not Mustang II junk geometry) tailored to the weight and center
of gravity height of this car. Total front weight 1450 lbs. I am also building
a 36 Ford Pickup with a 454 cubic inch Big Block Chevy, 1624 lbs front
weight and slightly higher roll center than in the 35 chevy. Both of these
vehicles will be street driven on roads much less than ideal.

The dimensions available for the A-arms are pretty much unlimited from the
above mentioned manufacturers. If they don't have what you need we can build
to your specs.

If you would like more specific information or need the addresses for the
businesses I have mentioned, you can reach me at:


       Roger Hensley
       Patriot Motorsports
       1099 N. 16th St.
       Otsego, Michigan 49078

----------
Posted by: emory!dcmdc.dla.mil!xgg3511 (Roger Hensley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 26 19:46:13 1993
Subject: Re:  please review: Holley tuning in depth
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5888
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>>5) Power Valve should be selected on the basis of engine vacumm at part
>>throttle cruising - For example if the minimum vacumm you see at part
>>throttle is 6 inches Hg - try a 50 power valve
>
> By way of note, Holley designates power valves numerically as 10X the
>power valves 'crack pressure' or vacuum. Stock is often #85, which
>means it opens up at 8.5" of vacuum. I've tried #65 (6.5") with some
>jets in an attempt to keep out of the power valve during highway cruising.
>A vacuum gauge is a necessary tool to help you determine where you ought
>to be. I'd pick 2" lower than your favorite highway speed into the wind
>puts you.

>>7)When you tune for a radical cam you must insure that the idle transfer
>>slot is barely uncovered at idle.  Failure to do so means a stumble when
>>going off idle.  Tune the engine for best idle and be careful about
>>choosing power valves.  If the transfer slot is expossed by more than
>>.040 inches your into the idle transfer circuit and the idle mixture
>>screws will not have any affect (or severly reduced affect - or effect?
>>damm :-)).  This will also cause a long flat spot (bog).  You will need
>>to drill a hole in the throttle blades - sort of a controlled vacumm
>>leak.  Start with a 1/16" drill and go up 1/32" each time.  If you go to
>>large you'll have to fill the hole and start over - told you this takes
>>guts esp.  on a brand new $200 carb.  After you drilled out the holes
>>reset the throttle to give you the appropriate idle transfer slot
>>opening (less than .040).  Go back to the begining of step 7 and try
>>everything again.
>
>>If the throttle blades are closed too far (no idle transfer slot
>>visable) you will have an off-idle bog.  The cure involves chamfering
>>throttle plate underside to expose the slot.  This will expose the
>>proper amount of the idle transfer slot.
>
> I think "exposed" in terms of the transfer slot means exposed to manifold
>vacuum; when you take these guidelines for idle throttle position I think
>you need to be looking at the carb from the bottom (?).

Yes.  Some manuals I've seen actually recommend measuring the stock - 
out-of-the-box distance the transfer slot is exposed.  They want you to tune 
the carb to make it work with this slot....  I have never seen a minimum slot 
exposure.  .040 was a maximum value.

>>8)If at this point the idle mixture screws don't provide the control
>>over the idle quality you will have to either enlarge or reduce the
>>idle-feed restrictions.  Enlarging them will cause the idle mixture to
>>go richer and will cause the mixture screws to be more sensitive.  Care
>>must be taken as these idle-well restrictions are the only control of
>>the off-idle transfer slot's mixture.  You must balance the idle mixture
>>with the off-idle mixture.  Normally the off-idle mixture will be fine
>>if the idle mixture is O.K.  For adjusting the idle well restrictions
>>use wire drills in .002 incraments.  Go slow!!!

> I thought the restrictors were in control of the air entrained into the
>idle emulsion. Or maybe I'm confusing the idle feed restrictors with 
>air corrector bushings? Maybe time to RTFM again.

The idle-feed restrictor is at the bottom of the idle tube.  It controls how 
much fuel goes up the idle tube and is eventually to go down the channel to 
the mixture screws.

>>This should let the engine run smoothly up to about 3000rpm (noload)
>>without stumbling.  Stumblin indicates slightly lean mixture.  Try
>>adjusting the idle mixture screws to compensate.  If you have to turn
>>them out more than 1/2 a turn you either don't have big enough jets or
>>the idle well restriction is still too small.
>
> Seems like a waste to have ten turns of adjustment range and 9.5 turns
>have no effect. That's where I'm at now. Range is from rich to way too.
>I need to get more air in there somehow.

If its just at idle consider the following.  1) your throttle plates are too 
far closed.  Maybe the holes you drilled into the plates are too big - this 
accounts for the sensitivity of the mixture. or 2) Either the idle air bleed 
is clogged or the idle feed restriction is too large. - this accounts for the 
over-richness.  Are both adjustments highly sensitive?

>>9) If you find yourself leaning out the jets for part throttle
>>drivability you may need to increase the fuel flow to the power valve.
>>This can be done by either installing a larger powervavle (specialty
>>high flow one) or enlarging the power vavle channel restrictions.
>
> This refers to wanting to keep the same (or more) WOT richness; if you
>cut the primaries' contribution you have to make it up either in the
>secondaries or more appropriately in the power enrichment circuit. The
>power valve is simply on-off and does not control the magnitude of fuel
>flow, just its presence. There are two little passages exiting the power 
>valve cavity that set the flow; you can enlarge them only by drilling
>since they're directly in the casting. If you go to far you can get 
>bushings.

True after re-reading the power-valve section - It recommends that the power 
valve opening (stock power valves) should be selected to be larger than the 
Power Valve Channel Restriction ( I assume this makes the PVCR the limiting 
factor) so a power valve with four .073 holes should be enough for a .067 PVCR 
(don't know the size - should depend on carb size).
>
> There are two-stage power valves but they are expensive ($39 vs. $3.99)
>and do not allow as much full-out flow (or so the book says; the PVCR
>size still ought to dominate as far as I can see) but provide two levels
>of power enrichment, one for moderate load and one for full-out. 

I think they're intended for emission control carbs - I remember reading 
something about them making EGR cars run better.  YMMV  BTW - the part number 
indicates the halfway opening vacumm.  Full open happens at 1/2 the vacumm.  
Not recommended for racing.

I thought Barry Gant carbs had high flow power valves.  I'll have to double 
check - maybe they're only there on the 4500 series carb (for those who don't 
know thats the 1050 and 1150cfm dominator carbs).

Good Luck on your tuning.  I'm about to get into tuning a 650 spread bore for 
a small block chevy.  The carb is old and I have the cost of a rebuild kit 
into it.  I wanted to familurize myself with the steps to tune so that I can 
spot the problems - not a radical cam BTW.

Thanks for the comments - keep 'em comming
Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 10:36:57 1993
Subject: A-arm Weldments
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5889
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> like they were ever an A-arm) but the welds stay in tact. A properly
-> weldedjoin type of filler (wire, rod, etc.), and process (heat,
-> speed, fit, etc).

 Yeah.  That's the sort of information I'm looking for.
                                                                                                      

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 18:47:28 1993
Subject: Re: Fuel system components 
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5890
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	Does anyone know the best place to get FACET pumps and fuel regulators
	by mail order?

JC Whitney has facet pumps and regulators for cheap - but the
regulators they sell are the Purolator dial style. If you want a Holley
regulator, you should probably go to Pegasus or Dave Bean.

----------
Posted by: "Chris Kent Kantarjiev" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 18:56:49 1993
Subject: Re: please review: Holley tuning in depth
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5891
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
>Subject: please review: Holley tuning in depth
>Date: Sat, 24 Jul 93 05:24:19 GMT


>Just like to post the way I tune Holley's Please make any corrections or
>comments

You might want to tell them about the inexpensive book from Holley (the 
little red one) that goes into depth about 1450/1460 carbs.  Has alot of 
great pictures to explain the process too!  

You might want to mention that some have idle mixture screws for the 
secondaries.  And what about those carbs with vacuum secondaries?  And don't 
forget about the importance of buying the right gasket kit!  Some metering 
blocks need the little horseshoe cutout while others don't.  You might want 
to mention that some power valves are two stage.  
 
But you're off to a great start.
 
Scotty...

----------
Posted by: "Roger D. Scott" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 19:05:20 1993
Subject: 1967 Impala SS 427
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5892
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

For Sale 1967 Impala SS 427
More than 12000.00 invested, Will sell for 10500.00
Serious inquires only. Please send e-mail or call for more info.
Thank You
Alan Handford  ash@vnet.ibm.com
919-254-5692

----------
Posted by: emory!vnet.IBM.COM!ash
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 19:15:37 1993
Subject: oddities in Hemmings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5893
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 While flipping through a copy of Hemmings Motor News a while ago I
found some very interesting stuff.

 Bored with plain old SVO or Dart heads on your street rod?

       "DeTomaso cylinder heads for 289 Ford, intake for Webers,
        water manifold tray; rare and trick, $4,500.  Ken,
        708-543-7474 IL"

 Those are Italian aluminum heads, circa mid'60s, which appeared on the
DeTomaso Mangusta (the predecessor to the Pantera) and the ill-fated
road race cars.  Thumb your nose at those guys with the small Chevys
with the common Gurney AAR and Weslake three-valve heads.

 If you wanted to stay all Ford, here's something even rarer:

       "Ford 302 tunnel port heads with matching intake and carbs,
        $3,500.  415-858-0152"

 Those were made for the Trans Am Mustangs, and they have the pushrods
running smack through the intake ports, just like the Tunnel Port 427s.


 How about something to zip in and out of traffic?

       "Valkyrie: 1969-1/2 500 GTX, Hewland Can Am race, LG500 5spd,
        327 hi-po V8, mid-engine, tube chassis, discs, original gel
        coat, only 5 made; $20,000

        1969, 450 hp, Hilborn injection, Vertex mag, orig. headers,
        mid-engine, tube chassis, Crown 4.11 posi, 4-spd, discs,
        narrowed rear, Konis, mint, solo 86 SCCA champ, $19,000
        212-582-6536"

 Now THAT's my idea of how Volkswagen kit cars should be finished up...


 For the Buick/Rover guys:

       "BOP 215 parts.  Free brochure.  Car Products, Box 96-R,
        Paragonah UT 84760, 801-477-8213


...and a blast from the past -

       "Devin original parts: new, NOS, used, frames, bodies,
        headrests, suspension, windshields, badges, etc.  Contact
        Bill Devin, 714-795-6695"

 That's the old Devin SS, for those of you who remember back that far.


 How about something bogus:

       "Ford hi-po 289 block with 4 bolt mains, std., $2,300..."

 no such critter, as far as I ever heard of.  All the four bolts - the
BOSS and the Indy - were 302s.  Ford *did* do some really weirdo stuff
for the early GT40 program, stuff which eventually evolved into the
Indy.  Such a piece with documented history might be worth something,
but it'd be an oddball.


 Other stuff:  Dean Moon Weber intake for 350 Olds, a Halibrand quick
change setup with swing axles and 6-bolt hubs, several 427 Ford side
oilers in the $6500 range, Hewland and ZF transaxles... you kind of need
to sort through all the junk ads to find this stuff, but it beats
watching TV.
   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 19:30:52 1993
Subject: Fuel system components
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5894
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Now that the single FACET pump I have on my Rx7 is starting to buzz
when "inactive", I am looking to put together the recommended fuel
system for the carbs I'm using. The manufacturer recommends 2 FACET 
pumps in parallel, with a 3psi pressure regulator.

Does anyone know the best place to get FACET pumps and fuel regulators
by mail order?


-- 
---
John R. Lupien
lupienj@wal.hp.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wal.hp.com!lupienj (John Lupien)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 19:43:02 1993
Subject: Trick rocker arms for motorcycles
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5895
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	As some of you may know, I sold my Harley to make room and money for
racebikes.  I am currently contemplating the purchase of a pumped up Kawasaki
EX500 for AMA/WERA Superbike/Supersport classes.  Anyway, the bike in question
uses an aggressive cam that tends to eat the stock rocker arms.  So, I was
wondering if any of you had ever heard of harder rocker arms for EX500s, or
roller rockers for the same.  The engine is basically half of the old Ninja
1000R engine, if that helps.  Failing that, do you know of any trick
automotive rockers that could be machined and shoehorned to fit?  I'm racing
on a tight budget, so I figure that spending a little more up front for rocker
arms that will last is cheaper than feeding the machine a steady diet of stock
rocker arms.

Thanks in advance,
-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 27 22:38:27 1993
Subject: Holley trivia
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5896
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Got some info here on power valves...

There are actually several families of Holley power valves. The standard 
ones have the base series number 25BP-591A with a 2-digit suffix denoting
10X the "crack vacuum", e.g. 25BP-591A-85 for 8.5" opening vacuum. These
standard power valves will feed Power Valve Channel Restrictor orifices 
up to 0.090". Vacuum opening points of 2.5" to 10.5" are supported.

There is a smaller family of larger power valves for use where the
PVCRs have been opened up. The 25BP-595A series will support up to 0.120"
orifices (that's 1/8" - pretty damn big hole, maybe for methanol or
ethanol you'd need it). Same scheme for suffixes.

Two-stage power valves can only be used with PVCRs of 0.060 (1/16") or 
smaller. The two-stagers have different series depending on whether 
you've got a 4150/4160-based (square bore), 4165/4175-based (spread bore)
or 4360 (?) carb. The series prefixes and suffixes have no particular
logic.

>From what I've observed of Holley power valves and metering blocks, the 
channel restrictors are drilled pretty small out of the box. On my 3310
the holes look to be much smaller than .060". I guess I could drill out
to that size and run a 2-stage and still be ahead as far as gross flow.
Since right now all that's running is my van, which is pretty heavy
and can spend a while in medium-low vacuum getting going, I think maybe
a 2-stage makes more sense than for a light car/big engine combo. 

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 28 11:02:46 1993
Subject: Racecar Engineering and Mechanics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5897
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


 Van Valkenburgh's book makes me want to gnash my teeth.  There's some
really interesting information in there, but I don't trust it.  Too much
of the stuff I know already is twisted, half-explained, or wrong.  If
he would bother to explain how he arrived at some of this stuff he's
expounding it would be different.


     "In recent years, it has been discovered that very little
     steering angle is required - much less wanted - in a well set-up
     race car.  When a car is balanced and driven correctly, total
     steering wheel movement may not be over one quarter turn
     throughout an entire road race."

 He must be talking about an awfully light, open wheel car, on something
that looks more like an oval track than a "road race."  And they must be
moving plenty fast, too.  The slower you go, the more lock you tend to
use, until you get down to the bump stops on autocrosses.  He's making
some very wide generalizations without giving us enough specifics to
agree, disagree, or even make use of the information.

 Jay's Corvette, for example, has 2.0 turns lock to lock, with a
typically numb GM unholy-variable ratio power rack.  Going around the
course he'll be waggling the front wheels like a sprint car.  1/4 turn
per race, my ass.


     "Kingpin offset is the distance between the center of the tire
     patch and the center line of the kingpin at the goung.  The
     offset is necessary to provide some steering feel, from the
     balance of the longitudinal drag between the two front tires.
     Under braking, this can be felt as a pull away from the side that
     is losing traction... a few inches of offset isn't uncommon."

 Yeah, I've seen cars with several inches of scrub.  It causes LOTS of
problems under braking, and steering kickback can be a real bastard.
With two inches of scrub on one of the Capris, it was completely
undriveable.  I was lucky not to break my wrists on kickback.  When I
redid the front for center point steering, I lost very little road feel,
completely eliminated kickback, it allowed the car to be steered while
braking on rough (read: ordinary) roads, and steering effort was greatly
reduced.  I can't see any justification for positive scrub, period.  In
fact, that's why I'm going through so much trouble to make my own
uprights.


     "Ackermann... may be a disadvantage... Ackermann is in fact
     useful on race cars..."

 Sounds like Dollar Billy Clinton.


     "This is further covered in an SAE paper by Winklemann"

 No SAE number, no paper title, therefore no way to tell which of the
50,000 or so SAE papers is referred to.  Typical of Van Valkenburgh's
offhand comments.


     "For example, a driver knows the approximate steering angle
     required in a given turn."

 WAAAAAAAAAAH!  I can't friggin' BELIEVE this!  The steering angle
varies according to roll, load, speed, track surface, and the price of
burritos at Taco Bell.  You turn the damned wheel until the car either
points where you want, or it goes loose, at which point you back off.
I've seen kids who were just learning how to drive who tried to figure
out how far you turn the steering wheel for as given turn, and even they
quickly learn otherwise.


     "...at least it wouldn't matter as long as the wheels didn't go
     into toe-out, which is a relatively unstable condition."

 Another Van Valkenburgh half-truth.  It is unstable, but not
undesirable, and many road racers, dedicated autocrossers, and all
roundy pounders run toe out, which *tremendously* changes the car's
turn-in characteristics for the better.  The builder corrects for the
instability somewhat by zero or negative scrub, some extra caster, and
so forth.  Of course, he doesn't *say* any of this, just the above
comment, which would lead you into thinking toe out was bad.


     "...some prototypes are appearing with rear steering."

 Jay's Mitsubishi Galant has it, and various other Japanese models have
had it since the mid '80s, six or seven years before this edition was
printed.


     "...at the front, where the strut is the steering axis, greater
     tire width produces extreme kingpin offset."

 Jeez, a couple pages before he *liked* extreme kingpin offset.  He
also seems to have missed that very few cars pivot straight through
the line of the strut to the lower ball joint.  Most of 'em are offset
in, over, behind, or whatever, with the strut loaded in bending.
BMW and Mitsubishi were the ones to start the trend, as far as I know.


     "BMW calls their design the 'double-link strut',  and they almost
      explain it in a 22-page technical paper..."

 Which we're not given the name of, or if it's SAE, IMechE, or one
of the German organizations.


     "Caster angle is perhaps least important, as the driver can live
     with an uncomfortable amount for a short time, and it has small
     effect on vehicle performance."

 Only as long as you don't TURN the car, where caster and SAI combine
to generate camber changes, which can get fairly radical, often
exceeding the camber change from the A-arms or strut.


     "...anti-skid brake systems ... promise some gains in performance.
      However, even if there were a *lot* to be gained, so little time
      is spent braking that improvements don't have a great effect on
      total laptimes."

 Duh.  Maybe if he's running a Formula Vee at Talledega, or something.
In *my* universe, courses tend to be tight, and we boil brake fluid,
lock up inside wheels, fry wheel bearing grease, turn the rotors nice
pretty blue, and fade the brakes right out.  A good car should always
be able to stop faster than it accelerates, and improving the braking
should give a better laptime gain than increasing horsepower.  Besides,
anything that keeps you from becoming intimate with Mr. Tirewall
is a Good Thing.


     "It is not uncommon for air drag on a race car to provide 0.5g
     deceleration at 140 miles per hour with no brake application at
     all."

 Ri-ight.  My wife's Chevy-powered '73 Capri will do 140.  My old 302
Ford powered '72 was faster.  Jay's Monzilla was clocked at 150 at
the Divisionals once, and his Corvette will do 140.  My turbocharged
Yamaha and his ZX-10 Kawasaki are also true 150mph rides, with all
the aerodynamics of a garage door.  And I tell you, back off the
throttle on any of 'em at 140, and you don't slow down at ANYTHING
like 0.5g.  Frankly, the deceleration from wind resistance isn't really
noticeable.

 I'm not pulling this stuff out of context, or at least not much.  This
book is straight out of the Twilight Zone.
                                                                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 28 14:54:30 1993
Subject: Re: Racecar Engineering and Mechanics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5898
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Is the valkenburgh book one that was printed a while ago?  If so...I picked 
up a copy in one of my used auto book collecting sprees.  Whilst looking over
the books with a race mechanic/preparer/car builder I know, he opined that 
the book was interesting historically, but to ignore everything the author
said.

Jim

jim

jfuerstenberg@dcmdc.dla.mil or jfuerstenberg@zz-link.dcmdc.dla.mil

"It has been said that motor racing shares in common with sex the distinction
of being of the most popular, most maligned and least understood of human
activities.

Charles Beaumont and William F. Nolan from "Omnibus of Speed"

----------
Posted by: emory!dcmdc.dla.mil!xgg2356 (James Fuerstenberg)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 28 15:07:39 1993
Subject: Re: oddities in Hemmings
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5899
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


Dave besides the goodies you mentioned, Kar Kraft up in Michigan has the only
ever built tri-power manifold with carbs linkage air cleaner complete for 
thed wedge 429-460 for a meger 3K, for those people really looking for a 
one off setup.Mike
 

-- 
Mike Brattland(Brattlan@Cyber.net) 1971 Porsche 911T, 1988 Ford F150 4X4
El Cajon, California 1923 Ford Roadster(Ford 302,4spd,9 inch) Ex-Jeepster Owner
E-MAIL ME FOR FORD HOLLEY TRI-POWER INFORMATION FOR SMALL AND BIG BLOCK FORDS!

----------
Posted by: "Michael G. Brattland" 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 09:12:22 1993
Subject: Re:  Racecar Engineering and Mechanics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5900
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Yo Dave

I was just at Irvine Sci-Tech books this morning, and in their foot-long
automotive section I found something you may like.  Wong's "Theory of Ground 
Vehicals", ISBN 0-471-52496-4 got my attention for a few minutes.  Covers
many things, and it is packed full of Greek letters and interesting charts.

Seems to have been published this year.  If you can find it, it will, for a 
short time anyway, slake your desire for automotive math.  Perhaps you
can add it to your good list of titles reviewed here.  I have not read
many of them, but I am fond of one you ( might have ) missed, Paul
Frere's "Sports Car and Competition Driving".  There is a great deal
of useful info here, and some real, but simple, math.  Also, although
Keith Code's books contain some mistakes and are applicable mostly to
motorcycling, they have some practical ideas for automotive
applications.  ( Many of the ideas also apply to Rollerblading,
somthing I've been practicing lately.  It is hard to explain to others
how I know how to move by having read about motorcycle dynamics... )

Also at ISTB was the set of auto tranny books by Breijka.  I already
have one, but did not buy the other, I'd spent too much $.  I like
these books, but have not yet applied much of the info in them.

Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dianippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 09:36:10 1993
Subject: Torque Converter + Stall Speeds
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5901
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I am trying to pick out a new Torque Converter and am looking
for suggestions on how to pick out the right one for an application.
I wouuld be interest in just general suggestions on how to pick one or
a specific suggestion for my car.

The car is usually just run at a local Drag Race track in a trophy class.
But I would like to be able to drive it back and fourth.

Heres some specs on my car.

Average 1/4 mile time  - high 16's
Approx weight          - 2500 lbs
Approx HP              - 200
Rear End Gear          - 3.53 posi
RPM at 60 mph          - 3k     
Engine size            - 258ci           
Approx Redline         - 5k

PS. Its an 81 AMC Spirit with a newly built engine headers and Holly 390 carb.
-- 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
romansks@unvax.union.edu  | 
                          | 
--------------------------------------------------------------------------

----------
Posted by: Steve Romanski 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 09:59:12 1993
Subject: season's first event (1 Aug)...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5902
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

-------
Well, not the run-of-the-mill 'hotrod' event, but not stock either...  The
first area truckpull is this Sunday and I have put my Diesel on a
weight-loss program (last year I was 400lbs too heavy and ended up
embarassing the half of the 'super-modified-unlimited class' folks that I
out-distanced, yes, I finished mid-pack out of nine in a street-legal,
virtually stock truck against purpose-built pullers).  I'm currently at
just over 5600 (gotta get to 5500).  My mods are few, 3.5-inch exhaust and
very slight tweaking of the pump to increase fuel-rate at low manifold
pressures (turbocharged, 26psi max).  I am expecting full-pulls since I got 
just under 150ft in the unlimited class last year...  I'll fill the list in 
on my results Monday morning.

Walt K. -- a different kind of hotrodder
-------

----------
Posted by: emory!halibut.nosc.mil!koziarz (Walter A. Koziarz)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 10:13:17 1993
Subject: Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5903
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I've got an after market 600 CFM Holley (model 1850) that I am putting on
a 350 Chevy.  My question concerns the vacuum lines that hook up to the
carburetor.  There are 3 vacuum ports on the carb.  Anyone know which
goes where?  Thanks.

1) - fitting located on the carb base, in front, under front bowl, angled
     toward choke side of carb.

2) - fitting located on choke side, just behind front bowl, up high.

3) - fitting located on carb base, choke side, toward rear, larger size (1/4")
     

--


       ________
      /______ /    
            //
        __ //_          Paul Richer
       /__ __/          paulr@lsid.hp.com
         //             Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
        //______
       /_______/

----------
Posted by: emory!lsid.hp.com!paulr (Paul Richer)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 10:45:28 1993
Subject: Racer Wholesale phone #
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5904
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Anybody out there have Racer Wholesale's phone number?
I seem to remember that they have an 800 number, but it
is not listed.

Thanx
Filippo

----------
Posted by: emory!maxim.com!bilge (Filippo Morelli)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 14:44:26 1993
Subject: Re:  Racecar Engineering and Mechanics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5905
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I was just at Irvine Sci-Tech books this morning, and in their
-> foot-long automotive section I found something you may like.  Wong's
-> "Theory of Ground Vehicals", ISBN 0-471-52496-4 got my attention for
-> a few minutes.

 I'll see if the local bookstore will condescend to order it.  Sounds
interesting.


-> many of them, but I am fond of one you ( might have ) missed, Paul
-> Frere's "Sports Car and Competition Driving".

 I think I may have read that one a LONG time ago, but I don't have a
copy any more.  Would you care to review it?


-> Keith Code's books contain some mistakes and are applicable mostly to
-> motorcycling, they have some practical ideas for automotive

 A friend of mine went through one of Code's schools, and got the book
as part of the deal.  The writing was...weird, but Code has the right
idea most of the time - mainly, look DOWN THE ROAD, not at your front
tire.  I used to be pretty bad about that, until I read it in an old
'50s book on (of all subject) police driving.  It's easy to look too
close.  One thing I still have trouble with is fixing my attention on
stationary objects as I'm driving, rather than letting my focus move
about.  I think the problem may be related to the long hours I spend in
front of the monitor.
                                                  

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 14:53:30 1993
Subject: Re: Racecar Engineering and MechanicsTo: hotrod@dixie.com
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5906
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Is the valkenburgh book one that was printed a while ago?  If so...I
-> picked

 It was originally written in the early '70s, but this was the third
edition, copyright 1992.


-> Charles Beaumont and William F. Nolan from "Omnibus of Speed"

 Did you know Nolan was co-author of "Logan's Run"?
                                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 15:01:54 1993
Subject: Torque Converter + Stall Speeds
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5907
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> But I would like to be able to drive it back and fourth.
->
-> Heres some specs on my car.


 From the information you've presented, unless you have a really stout
cam in it, I don't think you need a torque convertor.  For the bucks,
you'd be better off going to some 3.73 or 4.11 gears and a good shift
kit.
                                                                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 15:10:03 1993
Subject: season's first event (1 Aug)...
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5908
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> just under 150ft in the unlimited class last year...  I'll fill the
-> list in on my results Monday morning.
->
-> Walt K. -- a different kind of hotrodder

 Kick 'em, Walt!  Kick 'em!

 I'm looking forward to the next local tractor pull myself.  The one I
went to last year was a complete surprise - the competitors were having
fun, the crowd was having fun, heck, even the OFFICIALS were having fun,
no bones about it.  A far cry from the sour-ass NHRA goons and SCCA
yups.
                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 15:19:12 1993
Subject: Re:  Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5909
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Didn't somebody just ask this same question?
(1) manifold vacuum. Vacuum gauge or pollution control, TCVS etc.
(2) ported vacuum. Distributor advance.
(3) manifold vacuum, high volume. Power brake vac booster line, PCV valve
    (or plug off if neither of these went to the old carb).

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 15:23:35 1993
Subject: Re:Racer Wholesale's #
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5910
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Filippo asks about Racers Wholesale's phone number.
It is (800) 886-race

Frank

----------
Posted by: emory!OAS.PSU.EDU!FBS3     (SZYMKOWSKI.FRANK)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 17:45:25 1993
Subject: Could you please......
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5911
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


For Sale--  1968 Pontiac Firebird Convertible.  Street / Strip, 428 
Muncie 4 speed. Only 22,000 miles on the new engine.  Everything new 
including paint, wheels, tires, suspension etc.  The car is currently 
in Seattle, Washington and the owner, Shane Evans, can be reached at 
206-488-6537.

Thanks
Lori


----------
Posted by: Lori Hammer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 29 17:52:26 1993
Subject: 1970 Nova with HEI?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5912
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> As the subject says, can I fit a late GM HEI unit in a 1970 Nova with
-> a mouse V8 without any mod to the firewall?

 The one my brother put in his '69 fit *very* close, but didn't hit
anything.
                                                                                                                    

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 07:58:03 1993
Subject: Re: Mustang 5.0: Removing Cats
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5913
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In article  you write:
>The car:  '91 Mustang LX Hatchback AOD.  

(see my .sig)

>
>The Current Mods:  K&N Air Filter, Flowmaster 2-Chambers, Timing @ 12 deg,
>                   ADS PowerChip, 225/50/16 inch tires, Removed Air Intake 
>                   Silencer.

mine's pretty much the same except the ADS Powerchip..... BTW how much did it
cost and was it worth it.... i am probably going to install a higher rev stall
converter and a shift kit to eliminate some of the problems of the LOUSY AOD

>The Question:
>   Though I haven't actually gotten a good run down the track, I expect my 
>current performance to be at about 15.2 to 15.3 second ETs 

sounds about right

(the AOD was a mistake!)

Amen Brother !

>   How much of a benefit would I get from removing either 2 or all four cats 
>from the exhaust?  I was told by some that it would get me as much as 3 
>tenths of a second.
I don't know about that... i removed mine once (basically just removed the 
entire exhaust system for a few minutes) and didn't notice a significant
difference.


>   Also, (keeping the Flowmasters in mind) how much louder would the car get?

IMHO it won't make any difference in noise level because they are *really*
free flowing cats.. at full throttle most emmissions are passed straight 
through. however (as i am sure you are fully aware) this is not a *legal*
streetable solution ( unless *all* 4 cats failed simultaneously :-) then 
you could replace them with even free-er flowing aftermarket items like those
from the makers of Flowmasters.

>
>Any assistance would be appreciated.

go for the Paxton Supercharger with a little Bottle juice thrown in for good
measure!

>Thanks,

>| Cougar (Dan Neuwirth)      
>| Symantec Peter Norton Group
>| Engineering Department     
>| 2500 Broadway Suite 200    
>| Santa Monica, Ca. 90404

>Posted by: emory!symantec.com!danielne (Cougar)

Hey how come your Physical address is in Santa Monica but you are posting
through Dixie Comm in Atlanta?

[Because this list is hosted on and echoed to alt.hotrod at dixie.com JGD]


keith@ctms.gwinnett.com          Very few days go by that I can't ride 
DoD #4761 (69^2)             No day goes by that I *can* ride that I don't! 
                           Opinions expressed are mine & you can't have'em
              74 Kawa 250 Enduro      93 Kawa 220 4 Wheeler  
    89 Mustang GT (slightly modified :-)     91 F-150 4X4     
----------
Posted by: emory!ctms.gwinnett.com!keith (Keith Warren )
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 08:03:26 1993
Subject: the best BB  cyl. heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5914
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


I am ready to purchase the expensive part of my motor.. The cyl. heads.
I would prefer aluminum to steel... my car is on a strict diet. :-)


What I have so far:

Hildeborn fuel injection manifold with rectangular ports
Hooker headers 2 1/4" primary tube flared to 2 1/5" with a 4 1/2" collector

comp cams roller cam (spec's are crazzie... .725 intake, .714 exhaust lift,
                      duration 322 int. 330 exhaust, 110 deg lobe center
                      rpm's for power are between 5000-8400 rpm.)

Manley .030 over pistons w/48cc dome and raised pin
                                 (should be around 14:1 with a 64cc head)
Manley +.250 long rods (steel)

comp cams roller lifters
comp cams roller rockers (stainless steel, not those weak aluminum ones..)

stock bore 2 bolt 454 block, ready to be drilled for splayed 4 bolt caps.
Steel crankshaft, stock stroke turned .010/.010

Now for my questions--

Has anyone done comparisons (or seen a comparison) between different
aftermarket cyl. heads for big block chevy motors?

what size intake runner would be recommended for matching up to my other parts?

What is the D shaped exhaust port for?

Is there a big difference between a "normal" exhaust and the D port exhaust?

what aluminum heads would be favorable for my combination?

-dan a.
dhoward@cam2.mis.stratus.com
(508) 460-2001

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 08:08:20 1993
Subject: Re: 1967 Impala SS 427
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5915
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

In alt.hotrod article  you wrote:
> For Sale 1967 Impala SS 427
> More than 12000.00 invested, Will sell for 10500.00
> Serious inquires only. Please send e-mail or call for more info.
> Thank You
> Alan Handford  ash@vnet.ibm.com
> 919-254-5692
> 

> ----------
> Posted by: emory!vnet.IBM.COM!ash
Hey Alan,

	Do you work down there with the System 88 group? If so, say  
hi to Dana Parks and the others. 

P.S. Good luck with the car. It sounds nice.

--
**********************************************************
Scott Colbath
Stratus Computer
Phoenix, Az.  (602)852-3106
Internet:scott_colbath@az.stratus.com
**********************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!phoenix.az.stratus.com!scol (Scott Colbath)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 08:13:10 1993
Subject: RE: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5916
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


#>>The DN 5 speed requires a 28 tooth clutch - not sure about the output 
#>>shaft.
#
#
#>Manufacturer's claim is it will stand up to better than 800+ hp.
#>I had one of these transmissions behind a 500 HP smallblock. I went through
#>5 m21 rock-crusher transmissions which prompted the change to the DN. 
#
#Not to nit pick but FYI only M22's are true rock crushers - ie straight
#cut gears that make all kinds of noise as the air/oil slips between the
#gears.  Sort of like the DN Race 5speed.

You are right... I meant to use the word muncie, not rock-crusher-- If i 
broke 5 m22's I'd be broke....  Have you seen what they are getting for an M22
now-a-days? The price on a used one is ridiculous....

#
#BTW Do you know if the race 5-speed is street-able.  Does it have
#syncros or is itmade for clutchless shifts?

The only difference between the street and race DN tranny's is a torque bar
on the race model. All gears are the same.  this is what i was told by the
very knowledgable sales dude, anyway(he sells 30 of the DN's a year). 
I asked before purchasing.  The torque bar will not fit into any production 
vehicle.  I had the "street model". The literature lists the various gearsets,
all being straight cut gears , all having syncro's. 

Are you buying a new or used one? (or just thinking of buying one?)
#
#Dirk

-dan a.

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 08:18:39 1993
Subject: Autolite Nationals at Sears Point
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5917
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

The Autolite Nationals are here at Sears Point this weekend (Northern
California).  

Their prices are outrageous:  $31.00 a person for the good seats.  When I
called their information number, the recording ran through all the times for
all the different classes of cars.  Could someone fill me in on what the top
classes are?  What I really love to see is the nitro-methane funny cars and
rail dragsters.  I thought they were called Top Fuel.  Are they called "Pro"
now?  I don't want to go there to find out that they're not having any of the
nitro-methane cars.  I wish they would do some more of the Jet cars too.

	I used to go to the Fremont drags fairly often until the closed it. 
I've been to Sears Point twice since then.  Last year it was great.  But a
couple of years ago it sucked.  It's hard to tell from the ads and phone
recordings what you're going to get for your hard-earned bucks.

	Anybody know what they call the class that Nitromethane Funnycars are
in?  You know, the ones that Don Prudhome, Don Garlitz, Kenny Bernstein,
drive (or used to drive).  

[Still top fuel and Nitro funnycar unless NHRA has sold the title to
some sponsor (semi- :-)  JGD]

		About 13 years ago I saw a big race at Orange County
Raceway.  It had some awesome funny cars like "The Blue Max" and "The Snake",
anybody remember those?  They also had "The Burnout King" that would smoke
the tires in his rear engined Malibu all the way down the street.  They also
had a Hemi Powered stagecoach that did a wheelie all the way down the track. 
I wish they'd do more of that exhibition type drag racing now -- including
the jet cars and rocket cars.  The events (and the TV coverage) put too much
emphasis on who wins a particular class.  I could care less who wins -- I
usually root for the one the nicest paint job.  I go to the races for the
sheer enjoyment of seeing the incredible display of power, and automotive
craftsmanship.  
To me, the sound of a top fuel dragster taking off is most of what makes it
exciting to be there.  I love that feeling of having every pulse of exhaust
hammering on my chest.  I wish the TV coverage would let you hear the sound
of the engines.  There's usually some goofball talking through the whole 4.9
second race.  Does anyone else feel the same way?

Tom

----------
Posted by: Tom Carver 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 12:42:45 1993
Subject: *Televised Events #93-29*
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5918
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

----------------------------------------------------------------------
			       TV Events

A compilation of info. gleaned from TV listings, auto mags., newspapers,
tea leaves, and my favorite bartender. PLEASE confirm dates and times 
with your local listings before setting your VCRs.

TVE will USUALLY be updated on Friday morning and will be most accurate
(or least inaccurate) for the following 7 days. If your favorite event
is "TBA'd", please don't panic unless it's in the 7 day window.

If you are having trouble with this list arriving at your site in
a timely fashion, please let me know via e-mail and I will also start
mailing you a copy.

Comments, suggestions, additions, extra pit passes, etc. to:
					  stoffel@oasys.dt.navy.mil

		   ---------------------------------

(T)=Taped  (L)=Live  (SD)=Same Day  (?)=dunno

12:00AM = 0000 hours = start of day

    EVENT                             DATE  TIME(Eastern, USA)  NETWORK


This Week In NASCAR                   7/30     2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Shadetree Mechanic                    7/31     10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Movie: Two-Lane Blacktop              7/31     1:00-3:00PM      A&E
Firewawk/Supercar Series              7/31     1:30-2:00PM      TNN
Wild About Wheels                     7/31     2:00-2:30PM      DISC
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Hockenheim)      7/31     2:00-2:30PM      ESPN
Truckin' USA                          7/31     2:00-2:30PM      TNN
OLDS RACING SERIES, DES MOINES??? (T) 7/31     2:30-3:00PM      ESPN
NHRA Today                            7/31     2:30-3:00PM      TNN
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, SPAIN (T)        7/31     3:00-4:00PM      ESPN
Inside Winston Cup                    7/31     3:00-3:30PM      TNN
WINSTON CUP, DOVER (T)                7/31     3:30-5:00PM      TNN
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       7/31     4:30-5:30PM      ESPN
MotorWeek '93 (Integra)               7/31     5:00-5:30PM      MPT**
SpeedWeek                             7/31     7:30-8:00PM      ESPN
BRIDGESTONE S.CAR SERIES, MONTEREY (T)8/1      1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
SpeedWeek                             8/1      2:30-3:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             8/1      3:00-3:30AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (F1 @ Hockenheim)      8/1      3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
PIKES PEAK (aka Unser's Mountain) (T) 8/1      4:30-5:30AM      ESPN
INDY LIGHTS, CLEVELAND (T)            8/1      5:30-6:00AM      ESPN
Motoworld                             8/1      6:30-7:00AM      ESPN
Truckin' USA                          8/1      9:00-9:30AM      TNN
Motor Sports Hour                     8/1      9:30-10:30AM     HTS*
Trucks & Tractor Power                8/1      9:30-10:00AM     TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, part 1)        8/1      10:00-10:30AM    TNN
Cycle World                           8/1      10:30-11:30AM    HTS*
NHRA Today                            8/1      10:30-11:00AM    TNN
Inside Winston Cup (L)                8/1      11:00-11:30AM    TNN
RaceDay (L)                           8/1     11:30AM-12:00PM   TNN
Winston Cup Weekly                    8/1     11:30AM-12:00PM   HTS*
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       8/1      12:30-1:00PM     ESPN
USAC SILVER CROWN, MILWAUKEE (L)      8/1      1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (L)                 8/1      1:30-5:00PM      ABC
ASA, HEARTLAND PARK RACEWAY,TOPEKA (L)8/1      2:00-4:30PM      TNN
NHRA Today                            8/1      4:30-5:00PM      TNN
IROC #4, MICHIGAN (T)                 8/1      5:00-6:00PM      ABC
Inside Winston Cup (L)                8/1      5:00-5:30PM      TNN
Winners (Neil Bonnett, part 1)        8/1      5:30-6:00PM      TNN
Shadetree Mechanic (transmissions)    8/1      6:30-7:00PM      TNN
RaceDay Update (L)                    8/1      7:00-7:05PM      TNN
NHRA, MILE-HIGH NATIONALS, DENVER (T) 8/1      7:05-8:30PM      TNN
RaceDay (L)                           8/1      8:30-9:00PM      TNN
Road Test Magazine                    8/1      11:00-11:30PM    TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (SD)                8/1     11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
Trucks & Tractor Power                8/1     11:30PM-12:00AM   TNN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 8/1     11:30PM-12:00AM   MTV
IMSA GTP, PORTLAND (T)                8/2      12:00-2:00AM     ESPN
Truckin' USA (visits IMS)             8/2      12:00-12:30AM    TNN
World Of Speed & Beauty (Oakland)     8/2      12:30-1:00AM     TNN
INDYCAR, MICHIGAN (T)                 8/2      2:30AM           TSN
USAC SILVER CROWN, MILWAUKEE (T)      8/2      4:00-5:00AM      ESPN
USAC MIDGETS, MILWAUKEE (T)           8/2      1:00-2:00PM      ESPN
Cycle World                           8/2      2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     8/2      3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
SODA OFF-ROAD RACING, CRANDON (T)     8/3      12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 8/3      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
SCCA WORLD CHALLENGE, DES MOINES?? (T)8/3      1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
POWERBOAT RACING (T)                  8/3      3:00-4:00PM      HTS*
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 8/4      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
SCCA, SEARS POINT (T)                 8/4      3:30-4:30AM      ESPN
BRIDGESTONE S.CAR SERIES, MONTEREY (T)8/4      3:30-4:00PM      ESPN
Rick Mears on Letterman's show (T)    8/5      12:35AM          NBC
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 8/5      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
IMSA GTP, PORTLAND (T)                8/5      3:30-5:30AM      ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 8/5      3:30-4:00AM      MTV
POWERBOAT RACING (T)                  8/5      12:00-1:00PM     HTS*
Cycle World                           8/5      1:00-2:00PM      HTS*
Motor Sports Hour                     8/5      2:00-3:00PM      HTS*
MotorWeek '93 (Integra)               8/5      8:30-9:00PM      MPT**
Prime Time Motorsports                8/5      10:30-11:00PM    HTS*
This Week In NASCAR (L)               8/5     11:00PM-12:00AM   HTS*
WORLD MOTORCYCLE GP, MISANO, ITALY (T)8/6      12:30-1:30AM     ESPN
Speed Racer (cartoon)                 8/6      1:00-1:30AM      MTV
Motoworld                             8/6      1:30-2:00AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (IndyCars @ Toronto)   8/6      3:30-4:00AM      ESPN
INDY LIGHTS, TORONTO (T)              8/6      4:00-4:30AM      ESPN
Checkered Flag (IndyCars @ Michigan)  8/6      1:00-1:30PM      ESPN
This Week In NASCAR (T)               8/6      2:00-3:00PM      HTS*

		  ----------COMING EVENTS---------- 

BUSCH GN, INDIANAPOLIS (T)            8/7      8:00-10:00PM     ESPN
IHRA SUMMER NATIONALS, ATCO (T)       8/7      10:00PM          ESPN
WINSTON CUP, WATKINS GLEN (L)         8/8      1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (L)                   8/8      3:30-5:30PM   ESPN,TSN
F ATLANTIC, NEW HAMPSHIRE (T)         8/9      7:30PM           TSN
BUSCH GN, MICHIGAN (L)                8/14     1:00PM           ESPN
S.N. THUNDER W/FASTMASTERS (L)        8/14     8:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, LOUDON (SD)                  8/14    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (L)      8/15     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
WINSTON CUP, MICHIGAN (L)             8/15     12:30PM          ESPN
NHRA NATIONALS, SONOMA (T)            8/15     3:30PM           ESPN
F ATLANTIC, TROIS RIVIERES (L)        8/15     5:00PM           TSN
FORMULA 1, BUDAPEST, HUNGARY (SD)     8/15    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
BUSCH GN, NEW HAMPSHIRE (L)           8/22     1:00-4:00PM      TNN
NHRA NATIONALS, SEATTLE (T)           8/22     1:00PM           ESPN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (L)             8/22     2:00-4:30PM   ESPN,TSN
INDYCAR, ROAD AMERICA (SD)            8/22    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
SCCA TRANS-AM, LIME ROCK (T)          8/28     1:00PM           ESPN
BUSCH GN, BRISTOL (T)                 8/28     4:30PM           ESPN
WINSTON CUP, BRISTOL (L)              8/28     7:30PM           ESPN
FORMULA 1, SPA, BELGIUM (L)           8/29     7:50-10:00AM ESPN,TSN [1]
NHRA NATIONALS, BRAINERD (T)          8/29     1:00PM           ESPN
ASA, I-70 SPEEDWAY, ODESSA, MO (L)    8/29     2:00-4:00PM      TNN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (L)                8/29     4:00-6:00PM    ESPN,CBC
FORMULA 1, SPA, BELGIUM (SD)          8/29    11:30PM-1:30AM    CBC
F ATLANTIC, VANCOUVER (T)             8/30     5:30PM           TSN
INDYCAR, VANCOUVER (T)                8/30     9:00-11:00PM     ESPN
IHRA NATIONALS, SCRIBNER (T)          8/31     12:30AM          ESPN

[1] CBC also carries F1 racing, but it may be tape-delayed. If your 
French isn't too rusty, and you have access to it, you may also want to 
check out RDS which broadcasts each race live. Thanks to Tak Ariga, Tim 
Dudley, and Tom Haapanen for info. on coverage in Canada.

* HTS (formerly Home Team Sports) is a regional sports network centered
in the Baltimore/Wash. DC area. If you have a regional sports network,
please check their listings for these shows. If they don't have them,
you may want to ask them why they don't. Your times will almost
certainly vary from those shown with the probable exception of "This
Week In NASCAR". On race weeks TWIN is usually broadcast live from a
nearby location  at 11:00PM (Eastern) on the Thursday before the race.
An interesting show which usually includes a live audience,
driver/guest, and viewer call-ins. It also (at least on HTS) gets
rebroadcast a couple of times during the week. This show, as well as
many of the others, originate on the Prime Network.

Other possible cable sources for at least some of these shows;

    Network               Area                         Thanks to...

     TSN                 Canada                       Tom Haapanen
     MSG                New York                    G. Bruce Rodgers
  SportSouth            Atlanta                      David Cornutt
    "    " (aka SPS) E. Tenn. & West NC                 Ken Key
  PrimeTicket         Southern CA                      Chuck Fry
    Empire              Buffalo
     NESN           Boston/N. England                 Trace Kangas
     KBL                Pittsburgh                   Mike Sturdevant
     PASS               Michigan                         Hartz
   Sunshine             Florida
     HSE                 Texas
     PSN           Minneapolis/St. Paul               Dean Barker
     PSN                Seattle                         Gary Eng
  SportsChannel (SC)    Chicago                      Jim Fuerstenberg

** MPT (Maryland Public TV) - "MotorWeek '93" is produced by MPT
and distributed to other public TV stations around the US. If interested, 
please check the listings for your local public TV
station(s).  [Also please remember to send them a couple $'s if you
like the show. Those folks will always appreciate the help.]

-------

----------
Posted by: emory!oasys.dt.navy.mil!stoffel (William Stoffel)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 12:54:31 1993
Subject: RE: speed parts for sale
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5919
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



>I've got a couple-a speed parts for sale.
>
>
>Summit forged steel crank for small Chebby.
>Never even been unwrapped!! 
>$90.00 O.B.O. (you pay shipping)
>
>
>If anyone's interested you can reach me at the address below.

I'm having trouble E-mailing you.  I'm interested in the crank 
depending on whether it was welded or not and what it is turn 
to. (.010 or .020 under?)

Dirk                      
 

----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 13:02:33 1993
Subject: Re:  the best BB  cyl. heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5920
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

Well, this may not be quite what you are looking for, but I have an article
somewhere at home for sets of aluminum heads for BB Chevys.  One neat thing
about them though is that they are 4 valve per cylinder heads.  They are kinda
pricey though, $7,995 for the pair, complete.  They are direct bolt-ons, and
the guy (I think it was Lingenfelter, but can't remember) testing managed to
make a very streetable 700hp big block without trying too hard, and much more
power is possible in radical setups.  I'll try and find the article if you are
interested...

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 13:13:45 1993
Subject: Re: Racecar Engineering and Mechanics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5921
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

On Wed, 28 Jul 1993, The Hotrod List wrote:

> I was just at Irvine Sci-Tech books this morning, and in their foot-long
> automotive section I found something you may like.  Wong's "Theory of Ground 
> Vehicals", ISBN 0-471-52496-4 got my attention for a few minutes.  Covers
> many things, and it is packed full of Greek letters and interesting charts.

I took an undergraduate ME course in vehicle dynamics which used this
book.  I have referenced it several times in attempts to solve
flame fests in r.a.t regarding applying rigid body physics to 
automobile tires, etc.   The book has in-depth sections on pneumatic
tires, vehicle performance in all directions (accel/braking,
cornering, and ride) with the relevant equations and even some
useful info on suspension geometries etc.  It also includes info
on off-road vehicles, heavy trucks, and tracked vehicles.

It supposedly went out of print about 4 years ago, however I guess
it is being printed again.  Highly recommended...

Steve
--
 Steve Andersen  DoD #0239                               andersen@me.udel.edu
 (302) 832-0136                                     andersen@zr1.ccm.udel.edu
 1992 Ducati 907 I.E.                                      1987 Yamaha SRX250
 "Life is simply a consequence of the complexities of carbon chemistry..."


----------
Posted by: Steve Andersen 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 16:45:50 1993
Subject: Reference materials
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5922
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu



I see a lot of discussion taking place on reference material related to
various interests of automotive enthusiasts and I would like to make a
suggestion to everyone that reads and / or tries to utilize the reference
material to keep what the author is trying to relate in perspective. I like
many of you have various technical articles, books, etc.., that I like to
review now and then. Because of my race car building (circle track and road
racing), race car driving experience (two-track championships), and street rod
building endeavors I have had the opportunity to try some of the theories that
various authors have conveyed. Many of the authors are making specific
references in the context of a specific application.

As an example: Steve Smith writes that a circle track car set up for asphalt
should have 52% of the weight on the rear tires. His reasoning is that this
will get closer to 50/50 as you loose fuel and will help the car get traction
coming out of the turn. We tried this on both a sportsman car weighing 3000
lbs and a super late model weighing 2600 lbs on 3/8 mile banked (10 deg)
asphalt track and at a flat 1/4 mile asphalt track. For the late model it
didn't work, not even a little at the 3/8 mile track but did work at the 1/4 
mile track. For the sportsman it didn't work at either track. After numerous 
sessions of experimenting we finally realized why it didn't work at the 3/8 
mile track. The turn speed at the 3/8 miler was much higher than at the 1/4
miler. Because of the turn speed the car had much more body roll. In order to
control the body roll and keep geometries and wedge in the car within reason
we had to increase the front roll couple (Springs / Anti-roll bar). When we
approached the point where the rear end was stable the front end would go into
a push condition or if the track were slightly slick, the car would go into a
four wheel slide. As soon as we increased the front percentages to 51% and
corrected the springs and anti-roll bar the car became much faster both going
into the turns and coming out of the turns. This goes against nearly
everything I have read in reference to front to rear weight percentage.

As I said it did work at the 1/4 mile track and we feel this was due to two
factors: a. The 1/4 miler you had to slow down drastically while still in the
straight section of the track just to get into the turn properly. b. The tires
at the 1/4 miler were softer and stickier than what we had used at the 3/8
miler. We feel it didn't work on the sportsman car at either track because of 
the smaller (width) and harder tires, the increase in weight required and
higher front roll couple required to control the car.

The point I am trying to make is that these authors have experience in certain
classes of racing for vehicles being built and competing within certain rules
or they have experience designing vehicles to fit a broad requirement. Many of
the theories used on a formula one or Indy race car can be and should be
utilized on other forms of racing. However, some of the theories and practices
will never work. Determine where the author is coming from before you pass
judgement. The key to picking the "Flypoop out of the pepper" and being
successful in any endeavor is not to discard an idea or theory aside without
first trying it and determine for yourself whether it has merit or not.

I have tried some pretty hair brained suggestions only to find out that they
worked and in one season some of those ideas helped us win 14 Feature Races.

Keep an open mind and keep the dialog coming.




----------
Posted by: emory!dcmdc.dla.mil!xgg3511 (Roger Hensley)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 16:55:51 1993
Subject: Re:  the best BB  cyl. heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5923
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

I know little about BB Chevy heads, but have a few ideas.  Those
4 valve BB heads that were reviewed in HRM a few years back sure were neat
technology.  If you have a few spare thousand, you could build a unique motor.

Failing that, I have a friend with a pair of brand new GM iron rectangular
heads.  They are NIB but a few years old.  He may be interested in unloading
them reasonbly cheaply.  He has a '69 Nova that runs in the 10s that
he also wants to get rid of.  Call me if you want either.

I have the new Summit catalog right here.  They seem to like the Dart
Merlins, but those heads may only be available in oval port.





Frank Evan Perdicaro 			Dianippon Screen Engineering of America
 Legalize guns, drugs and cash...today.	   3700 Segerstrom Ave
  inhouse: frank@rebel, x210		      Santa Ana CA
   outhouse: frank@dsea.com, 714-546-9491x210	 92704

----------
Posted by: emory!rebel.dsea.com!frank (Frank Evan Perdicaro)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 17:07:37 1993
Subject: Re: Racecar Engineering and Mechanics
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5924
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

 Well, not exactly, but I have a few theory type questions about rear
suspensions and stuff.

 Torque arm 3-links. The little reading I've done indicates that short arm
setups squat on acceleration and hop on deceleration. This is where the
arm is rigid, on centerline and mounted forward. So I wondered late last 
night, would a torque arm pointing -aft- produce the opposite behavior,
i.e. plant on accelleration and dig on braking? 

 Traditional GM 4-links. Folks talk about them binding up. I guess this's due
to the upper arms being splayed, so there's not really a nice parallelogram.
Is this the main problem, and if the arms/body mounting points were changed 
to be more parallel would Good Things Happen?

 Finally, four-links again. Is there any particular advantage to having
upper liks on the pumpkin (aside from cheapness) as opposed to arms off
the axle tube? I'd tink you'd want to snub counter-torque at the case
but leaf-spring cars seem to do fine (well, they get by) without any
inboard restraint at all. I have a quarter-baked idea about the above sort
of geometry modification by using arms of correct height but located in line 
with the upper body mounts (not incidentally this allows welding to the steel 
tube instead of the case pumpkin) and using the existing Panhard mount 
exclusively for lateral location. At what level of applied torque does 
axle tube - housing slip become a worry? Do a few beads suffice to prevent 
it or is this a pro job?

 Comments? Psychiatric referrals?

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 17:25:24 1993
Subject: Re:  Holley Vacuum Lines
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5925
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

> Didn't somebody just ask this same question?

Yeah, I was a little surprised to see my original post show up again as
another response.  Thanks to all those who answered the first time around.
--



       ________
      /______ /    
            //
        __ //_          Paul Richer
       /__ __/          paulr@lsid.hp.com
         //             Internet Z-Car Club Member #64
        //______
       /_______/


----------
Posted by: Paul A. Richer 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 19:42:25 1993
Subject: Re:  the best BB  cyl. heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5926
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


>Well, this may not be quite what you are looking for, but I have an article
>somewhere at home for sets of aluminum heads for BB Chevys.  One neat thing
>about them though is that they are 4 valve per cylinder heads.  They are kinda
>pricey though, $7,995 for the pair, complete.  They are direct bolt-ons, and
>the guy (I think it was Lingenfelter, but can't remember) testing managed to
>make a very streetable 700hp big block without trying too hard, and much more
>power is possible in radical setups.  I'll try and find the article if you are
>interested...

I can't part with 1/4 of a year's salary...  
Although I would very much like to....

I was thinking of more along the $2K or so price range.  I am curious if anyone 
else invested $$$ into an aftermarket head and could help point me towards
whatever size and shape runner is best appliquable for what i want to 
accomplish (no street driving here, just drag racin' :-).

what i have seen for heads (there's a lot of them) shows intake chambers
in various sizes, exhaust shapes vary, and some have spread intake and/or
exhaust ports. I would like to stay in the range of a "stock" type head,
rather than the exotic heads, and work with what i already have for parts. 

Rehr-morrison has a "special" (at least it's listed that way in national 
dragster) cyl. head for $1995.00. They have D shaped exhaust ports.

Brodix 320 or 360 heads are around the $2K price, but offer round exhaust
ports.  The 320 and 360 differ in intake runner size. which would be preferred?

Then there's the "merlin" heads which are around $1K and are steel (but they
are too too heavy...  I'm trying to keep weight to a minimum of 1800 lbs 
(I hope!). Using an aluminum head saves better than 60 lbs... I chose the heads
because the weight is off of the front of the vehicle... 

My questions right now:

The heade i have.. a pair of ZX1? aluminum heads. They are ported (not my me)
and have been repaired a few times. ( I was told...they are a limited 
production BB head found on the all-aluminum vette motor, or special order 
and arrived in the trunk? of your car. anyone know for sure?) I want to keep 
these as a backup set of heads to a new pair. I got them for $300.00 at a 
swap meet... I figured they were a good deal...  The insignia above the 
exhaust port looks like an m surrounded by christmas trees... other than that
they are an aluminum BB head and I don't know who made them. Any help in 
identifying them?

on an intake runner, the mfgr's have 280, 300, 320, 360 CC's. how would these
vary? which would be preferred? 

what is the difference in exhaust ports between a severly ported hole(round 
like a 0. Normally what you do when gasket matching), and a "D" shaped 
exhaust port? Do you gain something hp by the "edge" hanging in the port?

----------
Posted by: Dan Howard 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 30 19:52:46 1993
Subject: Fuel Injected 2-stroke Racebikes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5927
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

	I pulled this from rec.motorcycles.racing, and I thought you might
all be interested:


From: ivan@erich.triumf.ca (Ivan D. Reid)
Newsgroups: rec.motorcycles.racing
Subject: Honda's fuel injection
Date: 30 Jul 1993 00:04 PST
Organization: TRIUMF: Tri-University Meson Facility
Lines: 78
Distribution: world
Message-ID: <30JUL199300040044@erich.triumf.ca>
NNTP-Posting-Host: erich.triumf.ca
Keywords: Go Mick!
News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41    

		Honda's fuel injected 500 is GP first
		=====================================
			by Peter Clifford.
	Reproduced without permission from REVS Motorcycle News,
			July 7-20, 1993.

	"Honda took the unprecedented step of completely revealing its fuel-
injected NSR500 to selected press at the Dutch TT.  The system is far more
sophisticated than even formula one car injection systems because four-stroke
systems inherently need not be so complex.  The two-stroke system needs
sensors for exhaust temperature and combustion pressure that are not needed
for a four-stroke.

	"The actual injector side of the Honda system is quite simple: a
geared fuel pump provides 10 kg/cm^2 of fuel pressure and the fuel flow is
metered by injectors directly into the inlet trumpets.  At first glance the
inlet body just looks like a bank of four carburettors with flat slides.  The
difference is that there are no jets, needles or float bowls.

	"Flat slides, controlling the air flow in the conventional manner, are
connected to the throttle.  In the bottom of each inlet on the engine side of
the throttle slide are two injectors, one behind the other.  One injector runs
all the time, the second only kicks in at higher throttle openings when a
greater fuel flow is required.

	"The really complex side of the Honda system is the information
captured by the sensors and digested by the computer.  The system is called
PGM-FI which stands for Programmed Fuel Injection and is said by Honda to
produce the correct fuel/air ratio at all times and result in at least a five
per cent saving in fuel consumption.  The injection fits the standard NSR500
engine unchanged from when it runs carburettors.

	"There are seven sensors involved: throttle position; combustion
pressure; exhaust gas temperature; engine speed; engine manifold depression;
ambient temperature; ambient pressure.

	"From this information the on-board computer decides how much fuel
should be injected.  There are separate calculations and conclusions for each
cylinder as it is quite common for different cylinders in four-cylinder two-
strokes to require different 'jetting'.

	"Once the system is set up it compensates automatically for changes in
atmospheric conditions which in itself is a significant advantage over
conventional carburation systems.  Honda claims no power advantage from the
system.  Indeed Mr Yoichi Oguma, vice president of HRC, said that this was not
the point in developing the system:
	'We realise that motorcycles will come under increasing environmental
pressures in the future and decided that we should develop systems that
respond to this.  We decided to develop fuel injection system for the NSR500
because it is the most demanding.  The things we learn in doing this we can
use elsewhere.

	"Oguma went on to say that the fuel injection system was no more
expensive or inherently different to use than carburation and that as it was
developed it would find wide use in racing.  The system being used on the
NSR500 was a development of an earlier system used on an NSR250 run in the
Japanese Championship in 1990.

	"Shinichi Itoh is reported as saying that the fuel-injected NSR had
better acceleration than the carburettor version but Honda said it was not a
fuel-injected machine that Itoh used at Hockenheim to crack the 200 mph
barrier.

	"Honda was reluctant to disclose how often the fuel-injected machine
has been used this year, wanting to give the impression that it had just
arrived and was instantly successful.  But it is well known that Doohan and
Beattie used it at the first race in Australia and the problems they struck
then caused them them to abandon the system and leave the development to
Itoh.

	"Cagiva has also been working on a fuel injection system for several
years but it has yet to be raced.  Honda therefore is the first to have a
successful fuel injected GP machine."


Ivan Reid, Paul Scherrer Institute, CH.     			ivan@cvax.psi.ch
GSX600F, RG250WD.	SI=2.66     "You Porsche. Me pass!"	DoD #484
	KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".


-- 
Chris BeHanna	DoD# 114          1975 CB360T - Baby Bike
behanna@syl.nj.nec.com	          1991 ZX-11 - needs a name
Disclaimer:  Now why would NEC	  
agree with any of this anyway?    I was raised by a pack of wild corn dogs.

[YES!!! (pats himself on the back :-)  This is just what I predicted 
several months ago when someone asked me what honda was doing.  Conventional
injection appears to be almost impossible because an engine cycle
lasts barely the time it takes to open and close a conventional injector.
(12,000 RPM = 5 ms, 15,000 RPM = 4 ms).  A compound, probably continuous
flow injection system is the only way to do.

The cylinder pressure transducer, BTW, is primarily to reliably detect knock.  
There has been quite a bit written about this in the last year in various 
SAE papers.  This is vastly more reliable than acoustic knock sensors
for high speed engines.  I imagine they are also using the pressure to
diddle the mix to achieve the best/uniform cylinder MEP.  The literature
suggests this technology will appear on civilian engines in a couple of
years.  Lots of advancements in the transducer arena.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!syl.nj.nec.com!behanna (Chris BeHanna)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 31 07:20:16 1993
Subject: RE: GM Granny gear 4 speed to 5 speed?
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5928
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu

You asked about the DN 5 speed.

I have one.  Bought used in a 455 Pontiac Trans Am.  Installed temporarily in 
a 69 corvett (actually an easy install)  I had to use the Poncho's clutch, 
pressure plate and throw-out - now the clutch chatters (should have spent the 
money on new) and the shifter is not right for the application (I think its 
the race shifter which is higher and to the left of the street shifters).  
The shifter rubs on the floor pan and the whole assembly is not quite right.  
This project has been set aside for the time being.  With enough money I can 
fix anything :-).

As for the race trans.  They do have straight cut gears.  They also don't 
have the normal cone type syncros.  They have something that resembles gears 
with every other tooth missing (is this called a dog clutch?). Your right 
about some sort of spring steel or other shock loading device.  I got this 
info from an old Direct Conection book and looking at the pictures with cut 
aways of the trans.  This means that no matter how unbelieveable it may seem 
i may be wrong :-).

BTW race trans are about $1800 - lot cheaper than those liberty 5-speeds.
But are they as good for a <600hp motor?

Dirk


----------
Posted by: emory!STDVAX.GSFC.NASA.GOV!OADDAB (DIRK BROER)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 31 07:34:23 1993
Subject: Reference materials
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5929
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> I see a lot of discussion taking place on reference material related
-> to various interests of automotive enthusiasts and I would like to
-> make a suggestion to everyone that reads and / or tries to utilize
-> the reference material to keep what the author is trying to relate in
-> perspective.

 Van Valkenburgh sits up in his ivory tower, and a good bit of what he
says is simply *wrong*, which throws suspicion on anything else he says.
I will admit, though, that what irritates me most is his condescension
to the reader - "however, this is too advanced for you, mere idiot
driver/builder/enthusiast, and you should never [build your own engine,
modify steering geometry, check the air in the tires] since that's the
domain of expert professionals.  And, of course, we won't tell you
anything specific, because [you might do it anyway, we don't know
either but won't admit it].


-> As an example: Steve Smith writes that a circle track car set up for
-> asphalt should have 52% of the weight on the rear tires. His
-> reasoning is that this will get closer to 50/50 as you loose fuel and
-> will help the car get traction

 Smith, on the other hand, tries very hard to give you the background
information you need - "on a NASCAR lead sled, at xxxx kilos, on
asphalt, this and that generally work."  I have very little experience
with the type of cars Smith deals with, but the information he presents
is almost always accurate, at least for what he's talking about.  He
doesn't make flat statements intended to cover everything from sand
rails to Indy cars.  And, while much of Smith's discussion is not
relevant to the type of cars I deal with, I've never caught him flat-out
wrong.  He also assumes that, if you're willing to go in there with a
torch and grinder and modify chassis, A-arms, or whatever, then you
either know what you're doing or are willing to learn, as opposed to Van
Valkenburgh's gratuitous safety lectures.


-> The point I am trying to make is that these authors have experience
-> in certain classes of racing for vehicles being built and competing
-> within certain rules or they have experience designing vehicles to
-> fit a broad requirement.

 No problem - as long as they qualify their statements.  What works on a
Formula Ford doesn't mean squat to a 650hp Modified on a clay oval.  Van
Valkenburgh talks the talk, but he can't walk the walk.  A person could
lose a lot of money trying to run a car using his book as a reference.


-> Keep an open mind and keep the dialog coming.

 I must admit, I've gotten as much [righteous indignation, amusement]
from Race Car Engineering and Mechanics as I could expect for the $16.95
price.  If nothing else, it made me sit back and rethink things some,
just so I could flame the author.
                                                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 31 07:45:15 1993
Subject: Re: Racecar Engineering and MechanicsTo: hotrod@dixie.com
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5930
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> Torque arm 3-links. The little reading I've done indicates that short
-> arm setups squat on acceleration and hop on deceleration. This is
-> where the arm is rigid, on centerline and mounted forward. So I
-> wondered late last night, would a torque arm pointing -aft- produce
-> the opposite behavior, i.e. plant on accelleration and dig on
-> braking?

 I can't recall ever having seen such a setup, but at first glance it
looks like you'd get wheel hop on acceleration.

 For a conventional short torque arm, you'd actually see the rear end
lift on acceleration - think of the arm as a single ladder bar.  With
the mount behind the CG, you get lift in the back.  Ahead of the CG, you
get lift in the front.


-> Traditional GM 4-links. Folks talk about them binding up. I guess
-> this's due to the upper arms being splayed, so there's not really a
-> nice parallelogram. Is this the main problem, and if the arms/body
-> mounting points were changed to be more parallel would Good Things
-> Happen?

 It's not that they're splayed - there's nothing wrong with that - it's
just that they're splayed at weirdo angles, and the upper and lower arms
bind on bump.  For some reason Ford copied the layout on their Fox
bodies.  Part of the problem is that the four arms are usually trying to
prevent side-to-side movement as well as providing a virtual torque arm.
If you added a Panhard rod or Watts link, you could relocate the upper
four link arms so they were vertically parallel with the lower, and
eliminate all binding while not changing the virtual torque arm.


-> Finally, four-links again. Is there any particular advantage to
-> having upper liks on the pumpkin (aside from cheapness) as opposed to
-> arms off the tubes

 If you're angling the links to take lateral movement, there's less
binding if they mount to the pumpkin, since there's less movement of the
pumpkin under bump.


-> inboard restraint at all. I have a quarter-baked idea about the above
-> sort of geometry modification by using arms of correct height but
-> located in line with the upper body mounts (not incidentally this
-> allows welding to the steel tube instead of the case pumpkin) and
-> using the existing Panhard mount exclusively for lateral location. At
-> what level of applied torque does axle tube - housing slip become a
-> worry? Do a few beads suffice to prevent it or is this a pro job?

 Sounds like a bang-up idea to me.  I wouldn't worry about tube to
housing slip - I've never personally seen an instance of it, but as long
as you're having the brackets, there's no reason I know of not to run a
bead anyway.  You have a four-link with a Panhard rod?  My '60 Chev has
that arrangement.  Or maybe it's a three-link... brain fade.  
                                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 31 07:50:20 1993
Subject: Fuel Injected 2-stroke Racebikes
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5931
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> The cylinder pressure transducer, BTW, is primarily to reliably
-> detect knock. There has been quite a bit written about this in the
-> last year in various SAE papers.  This is vastly more reliable than
-> acoustic knock sensors for high speed engines.

 How long do these sensors last in use?  The data would be fascinating.
Also, do you have the numbers of any of those SAE papers?
                                         
[The intent is life-of-the-car.  Suspect they're a little short of
that goal.  These are just piezo transducers so the sensor itself 
shouldn't be affected by the conditions.  Heck, I have a piezo 
accelerometer here that is intended to sit on the pressurizer relief
valve at Three Mile Island and monitor flow that will withstand aboug a 
jillion RADs of radiation, 600 degree steam and various corrosive 
chemicals all at the same time.  :-)  15 year old technology.  Of course
this little puppy cost about half a year's salary.  But I digress.

I don't have any papers handy at the moment but I'll see what I can
dig up.  I use the push-off-the-end-of-the-desk-into-a-box method
of filing so it might take awhile.  JGD]
----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul 31 07:56:22 1993
Subject: Re:  the best BB  cyl. heads
From: hotrod@dixie.com (The Hotrod List)
To: hotrod@dixie.com
X-Sequence: 5932
X-Archives: ece.rutgers.edu


-> these as a backup set of heads to a new pair. I got them for $300.00
-> at a swap meet... I figured they were a good deal...  The insignia
-> above the exhaust port looks like an m surrounded by christmas
-> trees... other than that they are an aluminum BB head and I don't
-> know who made them. Any help in identifying them?

 Well, what's wrong with running them?  You're dealing with square port
big block heads; it's going to take a lot of motor to overrun even the
stock heads.  You *definitely* got a good deal.

 Rather than urinate away money on aftermarket heads, run the ones you
have.  If you decide they're limiting the motor, yank 'em and send 'em
to RHS or KB or whoever, and have them professionally ported and flow
benched.  It'll be cheaper than the Brodix or Dart heads, and you'll
know what you have when they come back.

 The casting mark probably indicates Winters Foundry, who did most of
Chevrolet's aluminum castings on the hi-po parts.
                                                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)