From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:z-car@Dixie.Com Wed Oct 21 05:45:23 1992
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Subject: Re: Rattle III
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Status: RO

>    I've given it a couple minutes of thought......

>    This necessitates an infinitely degreeable cam gear (the stock one is not)
>    And ability to check absolute synchronization/ position of both
>    the cam and crank w/ regards to TDC.
> 
> {You're right about everything except one.  You can't "keep the 
> string tight" by removing some chain so you gotta relocate the tensioner.  
> Some schools of thought advocate redrilling and tapping the mounting 
> holes.  That works real well and I'd probably do it for an endurance racing 
> engine but simply enlogating the slots works well for our purposes.  JGD]

Now, when I read your original post I assumed that you were taking the 
slack out of the chain by slotting the mounting holes in the chain guide
on the slack side, which souded good to me since they seem slightly
enlongated to begin with. But slotting the tensioner?  Can you get that
much movement and still mate the oil passages?  Slotting the chain ramp
even more would seem like the easier thing to do.  Wait, let me rephrase
that...slotting the *top* mounting hole in the chain ramp seems like
a better solution (since slotting the lower hole would only move the 
chain that much *farther* away from the tensioner pad.  

[I was still talking about the guide and not the hydraulic tensioner.
Don't think I want to tackle moving the tensioner without a real
good reason.  JGD]

And as for retarded cam timing: LIKE IT!!!
The stock cams are pretty mild and the top end would breath a little
easier.  Mate this with a nice optimization of the rocker ratio.
(get that handful of lash-pads handy). And voila! A nominal performance
increase that doesn't comprimise the integrety of the engine much at
all. 

And a question:  Do the tensioners inherantly wear easily?  That is,
will a problem likely arise if I reinstall a tensioner that has
a pad that is in good shape, but the tensioner piston is noticeably
worn on its compressive faces?  How 'bout a noticebly scored surface?
I haven't had a problem, but I've been around 911's to long to not
have experienced the old colapsing tensioner symdrome.

[I've never had any wear problems.  JGD]

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com) Internet Z-Club member #51


From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:z-car@Dixie.Com Wed Oct 21 18:58:13 1992
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To: z-car@dixie.com
Subject: Adv. cam theory 299
Status: RO


   JGD, you confused me there with your last reply.  The "taunt" run of
   chain is automatically "kept tight" (very) because the crank is applying
   force thru it.  And, in no way would I even think of trying to shorten the
   cam chain.  

[Yes.]

   In fact, the way I was thinking, you would want to keep the same 
   number of links pilot link to pilot link (shiny plates) and use the
   cam "advanced" holes #2/#3 to  OffSet (!) the cam retardation" effect
   which occurs when you lower the head.

[again, yes]

   Also, isn't there enough range of motion in the stock tensioner to 
   easily take up the slack (on the slack run of chain) in the the
   case of head milling?  How extreme do you go?

[The problem is slack builds rapidly with milling.  It is not a good idea
to have the hydraulic tensioner too far extended. It can bind and even
fall out during chain resonance.  The idea is to take up the extra slack
with the back side guide (curved one) and let the hydraulic tensioner
stay in its stock position.]
  
   - Peter Chu
   PS .. I see, now, that you're emphasizing the increased slack in the
      slack run.  Disregard Para. 1 Sentences 1 and 2.  Still curious 
      about how much milling you do for what degrees of higher compression.
      Safety, durability issues .. ??  You're saying the increased 
      slack is so great with head shaving (slack run!) that there is a
      danger of "jumping time" ???

[Yes.  The problem is the chain resonates at certain RPM. The resonance
can be strong enough to break the guides and even the chain.  The only
way to prevent this is to keep the free slack to the minimum possible.
To get a feel for the problem, consider that the hydraulic tensioner
can exert a couple hundred pounds of force at max oil pressure.  Imagine
pressing on the chain with that much force.  JGD]


From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Oct 22 12:05:50 1992
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Subject: O2 Sensors: Again
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Posted-Date: Thursday, Oct 22 11:15:25
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Status: RO

One small question on Oxygen sensors:  What is the typical response time of a
sensor?  The reason I ask is this, if one was to design an O2 sensor monitor
how often would you have to go out and get updates?  I realize that around the
stoich. point change is greatest.  In the case that I'm interested in,
"response time" is defined as the time it takes the sensor to react to a change
in the A/F ratio.  Along that line, are there typical output voltages for
values of the A/F ratio (at a given sensor temp), or does this depend on the
sensor?

Thanks,
Ron

[If the sensor is good and hot, the time constant is typically a few 
milliseconds.  Yep, you can see the individual cylinders at idle.  I've 
built a little rig that explodes about 20 cc of propane/air in order to 
generate a combustion square wave to measure the response time.  I'm not sure 
yet whether I'm measuring my O2 sensor or the propagation of the combustion 
gases :-)  For a standard zirconia sensor operated in voltage mode, 
the voltage swings from 0 to 1 volt in a range of about 1/2 A/F click 
around stoch.  JGD]
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Posted by: "Mellum Ron" 
 



From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:z-car@Dixie.Com Sat Oct 24 03:04:27 1992
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To: z-car@Dixie.COM
Subject: Re:  Redline MTL
Cc: paraska@oasis.dt.navy.mil
Status: RO

[Amazin' how we get brainwashed about these things.  Think about it for
a minute.  Ignoring the clutches for a moment, what does the automatic
and the manual have in common?  Yep, gears, bearings and sliding surfaces.
Which has the higher specific loading?  Think about all those little
planetary gears in the auto.  A manual is a cakewalk in comparison.
ATF is pretty amazing stuff.  Just about as thin as water and yet


OK.  My brain's almost in the dry cycle. :)  What about ATF in the motor
then?

	Carlos

[Problem is most of the organo-metallic additives that make ordinary
oil into Superoil burn to form low melting point and/or conductive
ash.  Either is pretty bad for the combustion chamber.  Any ash is
desired to be non-conducting and high melting point so the ash 
will leave the chamber as solid particles and that which melts on
things like the plug electrode at least won't short the plugs. JGD]



From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Oct 24 12:54:27 1992
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Subject: Beloved Cold Weather
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Posted-Date: Saturday, Oct 24 12:41:50
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Hi y'all-

    I've run across a sort of odd problem;
  I'm running a Olds 350 in a 71 Cutlass.  During the summer, I run
a 160 degree thermostat, namely 'cause it likes to run hot, even with
a NEW fan clutch and fan shroud, boiled 3 row, ect.  
  Now that I've brought the car to school (Syracuse, land of snow and ice)
and the weather is in the near-freezing range, it runs sort of odd.
Starts fine, and the choke opens normally.  HOWEVER, when the engine
temp reaches about 150 degrees, it barely runs, untill it has reached
about 165 degrees.  It feels like it is running on about 5 cylinders,
and then, after it reaches 165 for about 2 minutes, the idle kicks 
up about 200 rpm, and it runs smooth.  
  I have converted it to electric choke, and have played with the
time it takes to open fully to quite a degree.  What is troubling 
me is the fact at that one point, it goes from running like sh*t to
running perfect.
  
   Stats:
    350 2 bbl, about 200,000 miles; it's just until I get funds to 
          rebuild the "good" engine for it.
    Converted to HEI
    Automatic, if it matters
    Probably should put a 190 degree therm. in it, but I've found that 
          the hotter the engine gets, the lower the oil pressure.
          Low as in <10 psi at 900 rpm idle.

Plezzzzze Help!

  --> Bob Valentine
   --> ravalent@mailbox.syr.edu

ps.- Is alt.hotrod up yet? Can't seem to find it here.

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Posted by: ""Robert A. Valentine"" 
 



From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Oct 24 17:37:26 1992
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Subject: Re: Beloved Cold Weather
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Posted-Date: Saturday, Oct 24 17:12:06
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-------
Sounds to me like your cross-over passage is plugged with 200000miles worth 
of carbon and the 'hotspot' that is supposed to be under the carb isn't. 
Aditionally, check the heat-control valve in the exhaust manifold.  Oh, you 
can ignore the SanDiego address... I live now and always have in Rome, NY
and am quite familiar with ice and snow.

Cheers,
Walt K.
-------

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Posted by: emory!halibut.nosc.mil!koziarz (Walter A. Koziarz)
 



From @dogwood.botany.uga.edu:hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Oct 27 11:34:51 1992
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Subject: Re: 1970 Mercury Marauder, Restoration Project
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Posted-Date: Tuesday, Oct 27 11:10:46
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In article  hotrod@dixie.com writes:
>
>Now, for something completely different:
>
>I am the proud owner of a 1970 Mercury Marauder which I
>am currently in the process of restoring.  This superb
>automobile has so far been a joy to drive, and I am
>delighted with the interest that the car generates
>among people who have absolutely no idea what it is! 
>
[stuff deleted]
>Knowing that this was one of Mercury's attempts at the
>GM/Chrysler dominated muscle car market (sporting a 429
>Super Cobra-Jet Motor, a rather large 4 bbl Carb, C-6

way cool!

>
>     1)  Would this car be considered - somehow -
>classic?

I certainly think so

>     2)  Would my detailing the engine compartment (ie,
>adding stainless braided flex hose, color-coded tygon
>vacuum tubing, some tastefully chosen chromed
>artifacts, a high-performance electronic ignition, and
>quite possibly going to a dual-holly carb setup) hurt
>the collectors value of the vehicle?

Since even though this is a rare car, I seriously doubt that there are
very many collectors out there that would pay big bucks to obtain one in
stock condition, so if it were mine, I wouldn't hesitate to dress up the
engine compartment (after all what's a hot rod without those things anyway!!!)
and I'd definitely put in an electronic ignition. I had a 1970 Torino Cobra
with the 429CJ and changing the points, etc. every couple thousand miles was
a hassle. As long as you keep all the original stuff stored away and don't
change anything that can't be changed back to stock, I don't think you'll
seriously damage the "collectors' value". As to the dual 4bbl setup, after
I parted out the Torino, I acquired a '78 LTD 2door with a 460 from my parents
that been overheated severely and run on burnt oil that trashed the motor so I 
put the 429 CJ in it(probably was the fastest LTD in Texas) and kicked around
the idea of putting dual 450 Holley economasters on it. With one 450 economaster
and the stock 2.75:1 rear end, I got 21mpg at a steady 55mph on the highway
and 15 to 17 mpg around town. I figured that the tiny primaries on a pair of
those carbs would still get decent mileage and the 900cfm of a wide open pair
would make the engine very happy. Never got around to it and the car got 
totalled in a wreck during an ice storm.


-- 
=============================================================================
Neal Howard   '91 XLH-1200      DoD #686      CompuTrac, Inc (Richardson, TX)
=============================================================================

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Posted by: emory!cmptrc.lonestar.org!neal (Neal Howard)