From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  1 20:31:41 1992
Subject: Valvespring Shims (was Wake-up)
To: hotrod@dixie.com

> how do they choose shim sizes for used valve springs?
> is it by force per unit compression or simply unloaded height?
> Posted by: emory!eng.ufl.edu!dvd
>
On my 911, the springs are set up in reference to their installed height.
Though it may seem more accurate to install them in reference to their
installed closed compression force, this is not the case. The minute
differences in spring tensions at the installed height is not of much
consequence when compared to the harmonics of the spring @ speed. 
That is why they should be shimmed to the same installed height rather
than the same intalled tension.

DAVE (johnson@wrs.com)

----------
Posted by: emory!wrs.com!johnson (David Johnson)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 07:46:34 1992
Subject: Something to discuss (was Wakeup)
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> My questions is, how does a cam affect the output of a turbo engine
-> at this level of boost?

 There's no general concensus for cam selection for turbocharged or
supercharged vehicles.  I've spent hours talking to Ultradyne, Comp
Cams, Lunati, and Lazer, and not only do they not agree, they often have
exactly opposite ideas.

 I'd select the duration the same as for a normally aspirated engine,
then increase the lobe centers to, oh, 114 degrees or so.  This reduces
overlap.  On a normally aspirated engine a wider lobe center tends to
move the powerband down to lower RPMs.  The turbo should be able to
compensate for that.

 Cams are weird, so you might wind up having to try more than one.


-> it up to 17 PSI boost in the car, but never on a dyno....it held
-> together but still not enough POWER.

 More intercooling would help.  You probably can't get a larger
intercooler in there, but water injection near the air cleaner will
allow for maximal temperature drop of the inlet charge.  Spraying water
on the outside of the intercooler itself would also give some
evaporative cooling.  Take a look at your air ducting while you're at it
- can you get more/cooler air to it?
        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 08:16:38 1992
Subject: Re: fuel pressure regulator
To: hotrod@dixie.com

> The fuel pressure regulator on my Yamaha Turbo has gotten flakey.  It's
>starting to stick from time to time, causing flooding and plug fouling.
>I've tried reverse-flushing it and blowing it out with air, but I fear
>something is dying inside.
>
> My friendly local Yamaha dealer wants $290 for a new one, and two to
>three months delivery time.

Do you get kissed for this price?  Geez!

Here's a source.

  Kenne Bell Performance Products Inc.
  10473 Bell Court
  Cucamonga, CA. 91730
  Tel. (714) 941-6646
  FAX  (714) 944-4883

We used the KB89060 regulator on Rutgers Formula SAE car this year.
This is an adjustable bypass regulator meant for general applications.
Should do the job.  Costs about $100.

Check out Turbo magazine for other advertisers of similar items.

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 11:29:35 1992
Subject: Re:  spark plug washers
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Depending upon the condition and current state of racing tune of your engine
it will only help a touch, definitely not enough to attain the ~.3 that you
want.
Have you tried stripping your car for the races?
everything but the driver seat can go for the day, take off your front swaybar,
this in itself can get you ~.3 or more!!!
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)0
1949 1/2 ton Chevy pickumup truck
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 11:49:29 1992
Subject: Re:  Valvespring Shims (was Wake-up)
To: hotrod@dixie.com

I don't know much about 911's but I've never seen an engine that had valve
spring height determined by shimming. Spring height is determined by valve seat 
positioning when being machined.
Spring shimming is done to ensure that all valves are under the same tension
Position spring into the tension scale, compress to installed height andrecord
tension, when one is found to be sub-standard decrease checking height until
proper tension is found and record the difference in height. this difference
is your shim thickness.
this technique is also used to increase a given spring tension.
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)0
1949 1/2 ton Chevy pickumup truck
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 14:50:48 1992
Subject: Re: Aftermarket A-arms
To: hotrod@dixie.com

I have seen the global west product. Looks very nice. Right now, I just have
slightly stiffer springs and monster anti-roll bars.
Be aware that you will probably need new spindles and new brakes and calipers.
Not cheap. Let me know how things work out.
-------

----------
Posted by: Jeff Deifik 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 15:28:35 1992
Subject: Re: Something to discuss (was Wakeup)
To: hotrod@dixie.com

On the 2.3L Mustang intercooled turbomotor... I don't have any experience
with these specifically, but I'll offer some generic advice for small
turbomotors... hopefully I won't offer too much bad advice :-)

You mentioned turning the boost way up and mentioning that it "still
held together". Keep in mind that boost PSI alone is not real power-
producing factor to be concerened about. The mass of air (number of
air molecules) forced into the combustion chambers is the primary
consideration. Of course, more air molecules means you better have a
corresponding increase in the number of fuel molecules to maintain
the proper fuel-air ratio. Turbocharger compressor as very effective
air *heaters* as well as being air compressors. Once you spin a small
turbo beyond it's optiminum efficiency speed, you begin to see 
diminishing increases in airflow volume even though the boost PSI
continues to increase. In theory, if you spin a turbo fast enough
(in the quest for extremely high boost pressure) you will actually
pump less air into the engine as you continue to increase the boost.
I say "in theory" because you will more than likely explode the turbo,
or blow your engine as the result of the severe detonation that comes
with the super-heated intake charge.
It makes much more sense to install a larger turbo if you really want
to run substantially increased boost. The larger turbo will pump a 
much greater air-mass volume at a slower compressor speed... and in
the process will generate much less heat. The only drawback is that
the compressor will probably be less effective at lower RPM's / lower
exhaust energy levels. This can be offset somewhat by diddling with
the sizing of the turbine side of the turbo, but in general, an increase
in size will produce more turbo lag and less boost at low RPM.
As far as picking a cam profile for an turbo engine, I'd opt for 
something will a small overlap (large overlap will not help the top-end
          ^^^^ with
of a forced induction system very much, and may actually hurt it,
especially at lower RPM's. SO, go for a profile that provides for
good clean low-end power... You'll need all you can get from that
4 banger until the turbo spools up. I'd look at doing some intake
port polishing, maybe even look into having the head and/or manifold
"extrude-honed". Any smooting of the intake system will allow the
turbo to pump more air into the engine without generating excessive
heat.
Don't dismiss the possibility of mounting a larger intercooler...
Look around for possible mounting locations. A bigger intercooler
will not only reject more heat, but if it's more free-flowing, it
will not generate as much of a pressure drop across the core, and
will therefore lessen the load on the compressor and cause it to
generate less heat to begin with. Water injection also provides a
method of additional charge cooling, which again increases the
potential density of the air-fuel mix. More fuel also provides
additional cooling of course... but like any fluid injected for
cooling purposes, it's effectiveness declines when the mass of the
cooling medium begins to exceed the density gained by cooling the
intake charge in the first place.
I don't think it would be worth while to think about more than one
turbo on a 4 cylinder. Splitting up the exhaust pulses to two parallel
turbos would provide have a major impact of the overall efficency
of the system. Twin parallel turbos usually don't provide enough
advantages to offset the inherant decrease in efficiency unless
you have at least a V6 twin cylinder bank configuration. I'd
stick with one large turbo, and rely on your cam choice to maximize
the low end torque.
That's my idea of the most desirable setup for a 4 cylinder turbo
motor. Naturally, others will have a differing approach. I hope that
at least some of these suggestions are of value.

Greg
jsb@ecl.psu.edu

(sorry for the typos - line editors are a real pain!)

----------
Posted by: GREG GRANVILLE 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 15:38:10 1992
Subject: Re: SVO
To: hotrod@dixie.com


Thanks to everyone that contributed answers to my question.  I don't know
when I will have completed this experiment (hopefully never :-), but I will
keep you posted.  As I said, I am collecting parts and have not started
buliding anything yet.

As far as getting more top-end power out of this "Pinto motor on steroids",
I guess I could just inject a little water and let it run more boost until
some parts come squeezing out the sides.  I just hope this motor can take
the beating that my 1980 Pinto still receives (from another member of the
family).

As was mentioned, the engine power is quite "peaky" and very non-linear.
I am getting much better at anticipating the turbo lag and boost, which
keeps the back tires behind the front.  This is the reason I think the car
is not a good autocrosser.  No low end torque and a very narrow power band.
I am going to play with a few cams to try and create a broader power band,
as well as do the usual port/head clean up I would do on a non-turbo engine.

The engine already has knock sensor, boost spark control, and variable boost
(computer controlled wastegate).  I am plotting the input and control curves
from the stock processor (wish I could get Ford to tell me exactly what
they were).  These will probably have to change.  Seems like the turbo is
able to provide the boost, since even at 17 PSI it was running with the
watsegate partially open.

Now, if I only had that dyno at home.........



	-- Dan

----------
Posted by: Dan Malek 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  2 19:51:24 1992
Subject: SVO
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> As for HP, this engine makes it with the RPM side of the equation,
-> and if you want more I'd look at extending the power band upward.

 Unfortunately, the 2300 is a real turkey as far as breathing.  The
ports are big enough, but they're shaped wrong to get much in the way of
flow.  The hydraulic valvetrain is also no great shakes either.


-> think) and bigger plumbing all around. Forced induction lets you
-> slide on some things like head flow characteristics, up to a point.

 Right.  You can tell when boost pressure goes up and power output
doesn't; that shows you have a restriction in the induction system.
B&M's blower guide really harps on this one.


-> higher performance heads, bigger turbos, etc.;

 No HP heads for the 2300 that I'm aware of.  A larger turbo can cause
problems of its own - generally, they take longer to spool up and do so
at higher RPMs.  It'd act a lot like an overcammed motor, which the
original poster didn't want.


-> I expect the bottom end will need some loving attention - rebuilt,
-> rebalanced and most certainly do anything you can to the lubrication
-> system

 Oddly, that's one of the 2300's strongest points.  The crank is beefy,
the bearings are larger than those of the 302, and it has nice, long,
thick rods that are nearly indestructible.  The block is also quite
thick - the complete engine wieghs within 50 pounds of the 302 - and is
nodular iron instead of gray cast iron.  Oil passages are large and
have few bends, and the stock pump puts out a lot of pressure.  As long
as it's all in tolerance, I wouldn't expect any problem.  The SVO
probably already has forged pistons.  If not, they'd be a good idea.


-> SVO retains the basic 2300 oiling system, that system did have
-> problems with oil in the top end

 You're thinking of the older 2000, not the 2300.  The 2000 used an oil
spray bar.  The tiny little holes would clog up sometimes, and the bar
is in the perfect position to get crimped when you're adjusting the
valves.  You're supposed to take it off to do that, but hardly anyone
does.

 The 2300 rifle-drilled the cam, then drilled holes through the lobes.
Each lobe oils itself, and it's a pretty neat system.  The later
2000s ditched the spraybar and went to this setup, but that's after they
stopped importing them here.

 The 2000 was German-designed and built.  I've never found out who was
responsible for the 2300, but most (all?) were built in Brazil.  It's a
completely different engine, but very similar, kinda like the difference
between a small block Chevy and a big block.


 There is a "new" 2000 in some US vehicles, but it's a reduced 2300.  I
keep thinking there was a 2500 variant, but I might be misremembering
the Chrysler 2.2/2.5.

* DoD #978 * Of all the things I've missed, I miss my mind the most.
                                                                                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  3 11:49:36 1992
Subject: engine rebuild/redline
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Howdy all,

I am in the process of preparing to rebuild my first engine.  I would
like to rebuild a 69 440 to put in my 69 R/T Charger.  I am now in the
process of scouring the boneyards for a '69 block (perferably a complete
engine, but i will take what i can find).

I would like to get about 450hp out of the engine without doing anything
TOO radical. (ie have the engine run on 93 octane unleaded, no nitrous 
turbos or superchargers and a cam that will let the engine idle).  I
already have a set of '906 heads.  I plan to have these ported/polished
and the hardened valve seats installed with a 3 angle valve job.  would
it really help alot to have the larger valves installed while the heads
are being worked over??

I will also have the block bored.  If the block only needs .010 bore are
there any advantages to boring it more (.030, .050 :-))??

What does determine the redline of an engine?? the balancing of the engine?
the weight of the pistons/connecting rods?  I would like to get at least
a 6000 rpm redline from this engine...is this possible?? what are the drawbacks?
loss of low end touque?  I know there have to be trade-offs but don't know
What they are..any help on all these questions would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks in advance

i know these are simple questions, but i am new to the hot rodding/musclecar
scene and would really like to learn!!

-Jeff (a '69 R/T Charger dude)

----------
Posted by: emory!TRITON.TAMU.EDU!JJP8508
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul  3 16:26:26 1992
Subject: Engine rebuilding
To: hotrod@dixie.com


 The engine's redline (as opposed to maximum obtainable RPM) is chosen 
based on reliability requirements and projections. A mass-market car will
have a conservative redline and probably will have its components chosen
to work best well below it. A short-life engine may be beaten harder,
especially if its components are being replaced frequently.

 To extend the operating RPM range of an engine, most people who are
serious start with balancing and "blueprinting", which is basically
inspecting each component to spec and fixing or replacing anything that's
not exactly right. This can get expensive and tedious, and is usually
shortchanged by people who are lazy or in a hurry (or short of funds).
It also does not necessarily result in an increase in power in and of
itself. However it enables the engine to handle the demands of making
increased power more reliably. Balancing lets the engine rev higher
without shaking apart. There's money to be saved, if you know how to
weigh and balance your own rods and pistons. Money to be lost if you do it
wrong, too. You want the total weight and the weight distribution of each
rod to be very close. This can be taken to arbitrary, even ridiculous
levels of precision. Typically within a gram is considered pretty good.
The rods are usually balanced by removing metal in non-critical areas
with a grinder. Weighing each end indicates the weight distribution and
to the trained machinist tells where to remove stock. For street use you
might just select rods and pistons with identical overall weights and
not sweat the distribution. Some parts places sell pre-balanced kits to
save you the hassle. After balancing the rods and pistons, the crankshaft
may be balanced - this should be done with the rods and pistons attached,
or their weights figured in anyway, to get the entire rotating assembly
tuned right. The counterweights on the crank are drilled, or metal added,
to get the proper balance.

 The reliable redline is often determined by the integrity of the crank or
the connecting rods. Each engine has different tradeoffs designed into it
and its own unique strengths and weaknesses. Those of your engine ought to 
be well known (though not by me) and ways around them also. The rods
generally take a beating and there are all sorts of con rods in higher
grades, lighter weights, etc. available subject to your ability to afford
them. The top of the line are usually high strength aluminum rods but
these are overkill for a 6000RPM motor. I think you'll be served well by
the Mopar Direct Connection - they have a good reputation for being
serious, decent quality and helpful - and their popular engines have a
lot of parts available. If the main bearing caps only have two bolts per,
there's probably someone offering a 4-bolt conversion (machining needed).
If the bottom end is weak, there's probably someone selling block girdles.
I'd recommend finding a book on "Hotrodding the Mopar 440" or such; these
types are generally packed with useful info of this sort.

 Just improving the breathing will get you past 6000RPM. The trick is in
doing it day in, day out. That's where the extra effort pays off. Anyone
can install headers, a hotter cam and a bigger carb and make close to 1HP/in3.
But the dumb ones keep on needing new parts or new engines.

 Investing in improved oiling is always a cheap, sensible investment. An oil
pump capable of taking higher stress and of putting out more volume, maybe
improvements in the pickup if that's a bottleneck, even simple things like
radiusing any corners that are accessible can increase the quality and amount
of lubrication available to the components. Starving bearings for oil at high
RPM is bad. Upgrading the lube system is cheap, relatively speaking. Again,
it's a relatively unsexy area which many ignore.

 An upgraded ignition system is also a necessity at some point. At the least
you will want to clean up and recurve the distributor to optimize power
throughout the range. Conventional points types, though I love their
simplicity, will sort of fade at very high RPM. The hot ticket is probably
to get a good performance distributor (people seem to like Mallory) and a
spark box (like MSD; there're lots of them out there). A worn distributor
will produce erratic timing.

 The valvetrain is very idiosyncratic and very important to your engine's
characteristics - idle, torque, economy, power band. Typically a cam that
makes lots of top-end power sacrifices low-end torque and economy. Often this
is due to overlap of the intake and exhaust lobes. Too radical a cam will
give you a trailer car, unsuitable for daily use and requiring all sorts of
accomodation such as extra-high-stall-speed converters (for automatics) or
special clutch technique and reduced clutch life from launching at 5000RPM
from a standing start. (Granted, this is extremely extreme). Vacuum 
accessories may have to be disposed of or supplied with a vacuum accumulator
to support them at idle. 

 A good cam will probably just be starting to fade as you reach your expected
max RPM. A reasonable choice will have a stated power band from as low as
possible just up to your max RPM. Cam specs are usually well lubricated with
snake oil. Shop around, ask others what they've used. Some of the big cam
makers have tech lines which will discuss selection with you; some are
quite sophisticated and will try to factor in many different variables. I
can't say how effective they are, but at least they try. Overcamming the
engine is a seductive mistake which will buy you only aggravation. Know
thyself is a good policy; don't be oversold. I believe Crane is supposed to
be pretty good about recommending sensible cams; I've heard of them talking
people out of bigger, more expensive cams that were wrong for the use.

 Any aggressive cam and high RPM use will require the supporting valvetrain
components to be upgraded. Stock hydraulic lifters typically "pump up" at
about 5000RPM. The valves may also begin to "float", or not fully close,
due to inadequate spring pressure to snap them back in the time required.
A high performance set of heads will usually include beefier, maybe double
valve springs. Roller rockers are popular but expensive; their claims of 
power gains due to reduced friction seem exaggerated to me but I can't say
for sure. I tend to favor simplicity unless it's obviously costing power.
A set of high strength standard rockers is probably a good idea since the
stiffer springs and higher cam lift and opening rates equate to higher
force. Ditto the pushrods. Variable duration lifters (Rhoads, Crane,
others) are popular with some people because they mellow out the low-RPM
behavior (improving idle and torque) while resisting pump-up to higher
RPM than stock (claims of 7000RPM or so).

 That's more than enough rambling for now. Do some studying, shop carefully
and put reliability first and you'll end up with more engine and be happier.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  4 00:50:23 1992
Subject: ENGINE REBUILD/REDLINE
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> I am in the process of preparing to rebuild my first engine.  I would
-> like to rebuild a 69 440 to put in my 69 R/T Charger.

 The 440 is a very nice motor.  I don't know if the Direct Connection
still has the big block builder's guides.  If they do, run - don't walk
- down to your dealer and get one.  They have all sorts of useful
information.


-> I would like to get about 450hp out of the engine without doing
-> anything TOO radical. (ie have the engine run on 93 octane unleaded,
-> no nitrous

 Ought to be a no-brainer.

-> already have a set of '906 heads.  I plan to have these
-> ported/polished and the hardened valve seats installed with a 3 angle
-> valve job.  would
-> it really help alot to have the larger valves installed while the
-> heads are being worked over??

 If you're going to go to larger valves, you need to port the heads
first.  Considering the 440 breathes pretty good already, just clean out
the bowls, knock off any rough spots, and match the ports.  I wouldn't
worry about putting seats in.  (you may get some different viewpoints
considering the list's mini-flamewar a couple of weeks ago)  Do whatever
you want or can afford.


-> I will also have the block bored.  If the block only needs .010 bore
-> are there any advantages to boring it more (.030, .050 :-))??

 The block will almost certainly have to be bored.  Unless you go for
custom forgings, you'll be limited to what you can get for oversizes.
.030, .040, and .060 are the norm.  I wouldn't bore it any more than
necessary - best to save it for a future rebuild.


-> the weight of the pistons/connecting rods?  I would like to get at
-> least a 6000 rpm redline from this engine...is this possible?

 Piece o' cake, and within the limits of some of the high performance
variants.  Winding it tighter than that probably wouldn't get you much
on a mild street motor anyway.


-> I know there have to be trade-offs but don't know What they are.

 Good; you already know there's no magic bolt-on that's going to add
200hp.  Hotrodding involves lots of tradeoffs, and you have to grok it
as a system.  Everything sorta relates to everything else.


 In your case, you could build to your target specs (93 octane,
reasonable idle, 450hp) with a pretty generic motor.
                                                                                                                           

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  4 00:50:34 1992
Subject: Address list 4
To: hotrod@dixie.com


** Radiators
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Griffin Radiator                        racing radiators
Route 1, Box 66
Townville SC 29689
800-722-3723
803-287-4898
803-287-9265 fax

Ron Davis Racing Products               aluminum radiators
2905 W Buckeye Road
Phoenix AZ 85009
800-842-5166
602-269-9194


** Safety
-------------------------------------------------------------------

CMT Productions         fire ext. & mounts   10/84
21814 S. Vermont Ave
Torrance CA 90502
213-328-6887

Irmo Racing                     safety equipment
1212 Osheal Road
Irmo SC 29063
803-732-0937

Pyrotect                                harnesses
301 N. Harrison Street
Alexandria VA 46001
800-242-9940

Snell Memorial Foundation       safety goobers
PO Box 493
St. James NY 11780


** Seats
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Freedman Seating Co.            truck, van seats   10/84
4043 N. Ravenswood
Chicaco IL 60613
312-929-6100

Scheel-Mann                     seats           06/85
Scheel California Inc.
17101 S. Central Ave., Unit I
Carson CA 90746
213-639-4570


** Suspension
----------------------------------------------------------------

4-Way Suspension Products               4wd shocks   01/85
5760 Chesapeake Ct.
Suite B
San Diego CA 92123

Bilstein                        shocks   11/84
11760 Sorrento Valley Road
San Diego CA 92121

Coleman Racing Products         shocks, brakes, suspension
N1597 US-41
Menominee MI 49858
906-863-7883

Gabriel Shocks & Struts                 10/84
200 E. Randolph Drive
Chicaco IL 60601

Greenwood Automotive Industries         big block late 'vettes,
suspension
2280 Old Lake Mark Road
Sanford FL 32771
800-426-GAP1
305-322-7220

Hellwig Suspension Products
16237 Avenue 296
Visalia CA 93291
800-367-5682

Just Suspension
PO Box 167
Towaco NJ 07082
201-808-8889

KYB                             shocks                  06/85
901 Oak Creek Drive
Lombard IL 60148

Koni                            shocks
ITT Parts Supply Division
8085 Production Avenue
Florance KY 41042
606-727-5028

Landrum Spring Service
1677 Lakewood Ave. SE
Atlanta GA 30315
tech 404-622-9348
orders 800-533-2517

National Rod Ends                       rod ends
1920 Shawnee Road
Eagan MN 55122
612-688-2628

Performance Suspension Technology               suspension stuff
PO Box 396
Montville NJ 07045
800-247-2288
201-299-8019

Pro Shocks
1865 "A" Beaver Ridge Circle
Norcross GA 30071
404-449-4440
404-449-4406 fax

Rough Country                   4x4 shocks  11/84
1080 N. Marshall Ave.
El Cajon CA 92020
619-449-2900

Sander Engineering                      aluminum spindles
3155 Kashiwa Street
Torrance CA 90505
213-534-1210

Sway-A-Way                      truck swaybars  11/84
7840 Burnet Ave
Van Nuys CA 91405
818-988-5510

Sweet Mfg.                              sprint car steering
3421 South Burdick St.
Kalamazoo MI 49001
616-344-2086
800-441-8619

Z&Z Auto                                urethane bushings
233 N. Lemon
Orange CA 92666
714-997-2200


** Tires
---------------------------------------------------------------------

Hurst Racing Tires
PO Box 278
Wendell ID 83355
208-536-6236

Marsh Racing Tire
1-800-643-3625

Towel City Retreading                   racing retreads
1601 North Ridge Ave
Kannapolis NC 28081
704-933-2143

Uniroyal/BF Goodrich
600 S. Main St.
Akron OH 44397-0001
216-374-3000
   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  4 00:54:19 1992
Subject: Address list 2
To: hotrod@dixie.com


** Engine
--------------------------------------------------------------------

B-H-J Precision                         custom harmonic balancers
37530 Enterprise Ct.
Newark NJ 94560
510-797-6780

Cloyes Gear & Products                  cam chains, gear drives
4520 Beidler Road
Willoughby OH 44094
216-942-8200

PRD                                     carbon fiber pushrods
7630 Miramar Road
#2500
San Diego CA 92126
619-536-8875

CV Products                             engine stuff
919 Finch Avenue
High Point NC 27263
919-883-4096
800-448-1223
fax 919-883-8826

JE Pistons
15681 Computer Lane
Huntingdon Beach CA 92649
714-898-9763

Perfect Circle Corp             engine, chassis parts
Box 455
Toledo OH 43697
419-891-1900

Total Seal                              rings
2225 W Mountain View #6
Phoenix AZ 85021
800-874-2753
602-678-4977

Peterson Fluid Systems          oil pumps, pans, tanks
5663 Monaco
Commerce City CO 80022
800-926-7867
303-287-1860 fax

Wayne's Mail Order Engine Parts
2200 Business Way
Riverside CA 92501
800-346-9735
714-684-0385
714-682-1848 fax

Probe Industries                        engine parts
308 Maple Avenue
Torrance CA 90503
310-328-0124
310-328-2941 fax

Riolo Racing Engines                    aluminum rods
2530 Vineyard Road
Roseville CA 95678
916-771-0752

Vibratech                       Fluidampr dampers
537 E Delavan Ave
Buffalo NY 14211
716-895-8000
fax 716-895-7258


** Fasteners
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Automotive Racing Products (ARP)        bolts
250 Quail Court
Santa Paula CA 93060
800-826-3045
805-525-5152

Dorman Products                 fasteners
1 Dorman Drive
Warsaw KY 41905
800-359-0829

"Kraze" Korlacki Speed Equipment        rivets, helicoils, stuff
38 Winthrop St
(N.E. Test Track)
Rehoboth MA 02769
508-252-6830
800-252-6830
800-258-5672 fax


** Ford
----------------------------------------------------------------------

B&A Ford Performance
PO Box 6553
Fort Smith AR 72906-6553
918-427-7757

Esslinger Engineering                   Pinto parts
1432 Portero
S. El Monte CA 91733
818-444-4919

Holman-Moody
POB 27065
Municipal Airport Station
Charlotte NC 28208
1-704-645-3976

Larry's Thunderbird and Mustang Parts
511 S. Raymond Ave
Fullerton CA 92631
714-871-6432

PME                                     Ford stuff
205 Main Street
Hope IN 47246

Racer Walsh Co                          pinto/Ford
5906 Macy Ave.
Jacksonville FL 32211
800-334-0151
904-743-8253

Total Performance                       Ford stuff
44050 N. Groesbeck Hwy.
Mt. Clemens, MI 48043
313-468-3673


** Fuel Cells, Tanks
---------------------------------------------------------

Aircraft Rubber Mfg. Inc                Fuel Safe fuel cells
5271 Business Drive
Huntingon Beach CA 92649
714-897-2858
800-433-6524

Fillip Automotive               fuel cells      01/85
2419 Sherwood Way
San Angelo TX 76901
915-949-1111


** Fuel Injection
------------------------------------------------------------

Street & Performance                    TPI FI conversions
PO Box 1169
#1 Hot Rod Lane
Mena AR 71953
fax 501-394-7113
501-394-5711


** Gaskets
-------------------------------------------------------------------

Detroit Gasket
PO Box 1229
Arden NC 28704
704-684-8569

FelPro                          gaskets
7450 N. McCormick Blvd
Box C 1103
Skokie IL 60076

McCord                          gaskets
325 E. Eisenhower Pkwy
Suite 202
Ann Arbor MI 48108-3388

Mr. Gasket                              stuff
8700 Brookpark Road
Cleveland PH 44129


** General Stuff
-------------------------------------------------------------

Race Engineering                        general stuff
3550 23rd Avenue S.
Lake Worth FL 33461
407-533-5500

Speedway Motors                         general stuff
PO Box 81906
Lincoln NE 68501-1906
402-474-4411
fax 800-736-3733
                                                                             

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sat Jul  4 16:47:57 1992
Subject: Re:  engine rebuild/redline
To: hotrod@dixie.com

If I remember correctly the '69 440 put out ~420HP anyway!!
A good 440 can turn 6000rpm's no sweat!!
Get your block, may not be easy they are somewhat desirable.
Take it to a REPUTABLE machine shop and have it COMPLETELY inspected.
They will tell you the necessary overbore and crank grind dimensions.
If everything is in good shape you are set, else they will tell you
which parts to replace.
For ~400.00 get a complete rebuild kit from a reputable dealer.
This willinclude every thing your need as far as internal parts.
A high volume oil pump would be a GOOD idea!
If you have the money get your heads ported, not complete porting
just the valve pockets and port cleaning, discuss with the head service
whether or not the heads will really need larger valves.
Call CRANE (or whoever you prefer) technical services for a cam
recommendation.
An EDELBROCK TORKER II manifold would be a good choice when coupled 
with a HOLLEY 3310 carburator.
A set of HOOKER "competition" headers will top things off nicely.

This should get you in the range you want with NO problemsnd be as
reliable as an engine as you could ask for.
Exersize CAUTION with this much power in your car, speed is ADDICTIVE
and can easily get you in trouble.

***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)0
1949 1/2 ton Chevy pickumup truck
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul  5 16:17:06 1992
Subject: turbo secrets
To: hotrod@dixie.com

> Flipping through the ads, I noticed a place called Turbonology selling
>a book called "Turbo Secrets" for $99.  Ri-ight.  They also urge you to
>write for a FREE* summary of the book - the * at the bottom of the ad
>tells you to send $5 for S&H.  Ri-ight.

Glad to see I'm not the only one who gets this slimy feel every time I
read that magazine.

> Has anyone bothered to send the $99?  John?

Nah.  I've paid oh maybe 1000 times that to learn it the hard way :-)
Seriously, I can't imagine what could be in that book that is not in
MacInnes' book.  The rest of it you just gotta learn yourself.  
MacInnes does not cover some of the more esoteric stuff like using 
turbo tachs to measure turbine speed but that information is available
either from the turbo mfrs or by calling someone like Ak Miller and 
chatting for a bit.  And of course, ignoring about 90% of what you 
read in the popular press and substituting good old fashioned common
sense.

Besides, you'll be able to get all that good stuff from _Performance 
Engineering_ (tm) Magazine.  Things are progressing nicely toward a
publication date of August for the free sample issue.  I have to take
time out to make a quick trip to Germany to teach a programming course
which is nuking the schedule a bit but on the other hand, I can already
hear the Autobahn calling my name :-)  Programming is like crack.
As much as you hate it, it keeps coming back and nuking you over and over
again.  This trip does pay for the press run so all's not lost. :-)

Speaking of PE, I'm still looking for some writers.  Dave, you game?
Hey, it pays well and you'll have fame, fortune and babes (wellll...) at 
your beck and call.  Drop me a note if you're interested.

Here is the announcement I'll be posting to the net, CompuServe and 
a few other places in a few days.   As usual, the Hotrod List gets 
first dibbs.

73 John
--------------------------------------------
Introducing 

_Performance Engineering_ Magazine

The magazine for the mobility hacker


Those of us interested in the high technology end of high
performance face a real problem. There is almost no really
technical information  available to us or really even the trade.
There are the "GEE WHIZ bolt'n'pray" magazines which treat
something as esoteric as fuel injection as voodoo magic.  There
is the SAE where _Automotive Engineering_ publishes just enough
information to whet the appetite and SAE standards, the purchase
of which requires the budget of many third world countries.  

As I poke around in and out of industry, my worst fears are
being realized - that is, practically none of the modern
automotive research is being published because of obsessive
secrecy within American manufacturers.   Much of what is
published is so esoteric or theoretical as to be useless to the
average mobility hacker.  Most publication of interest is being
done in Japan in japanese  and thus mostly unavailable to the
average enthusiast or engineer.  There is no "how-to" magazine
for the 'rodder interested in doing more than just bolting on
parts and hoping they all work well together.  

I've decided to do something about it.  "Something" is "Performance 
Engineering", a magazine dedicated to the engineering side of 
high performance.

This magazine is chartered to provide the same depth of
technical and  engineering information  to the mobility field
(which includes practically anything that moves) as magazines
such as _Byte_ or _Circuit Cellar InK_ does for computers. There
will be a mix of theoretical and practical how-to articles, all
aimed at the individual enthusiast and the current and potential
small businessmen.  The publication will be subscription and
advertiser supported.  Authors will be paid a rate commensurate
with other  publications of similar circulation.  Theoretical
and/or articles that involve the design process will be
peer-reviewed for accuracy. 

In order to give you a flavor for what this publication will be, here is
a short list of topics:

*	Designing and building your own fuel injection system.
*	Blueprinting fuel injectors.
*	A homemade fuel injector tester for under $200.
*	Ignition system design.
*	How  works.  "Systems" can be anything from 
	OEM ECMs to ignition control boxes.
*	Do it yourself dynamometers for under $1000.
*	A homemade G-analyst.
*	A homemade flow bench.
*	A homemade exhaust gas analyzer
*	A homemade distributor curving machine.
*	Using Nondispersive Infrared Analysis of Exhaust gas for performance
	tuning.
*	High performance electric drive controllers (yep, electric cars too)
*	Design considerations for jet powered drag cars 
*	The science of nitro-methane and its use.
*	Instrumenting an exhaust system for performance optimization.
*	High performance hydrostatic drives.
*	Using a homemade radar gun for performance tuning.
*	Natural Gas as a high performance fuel.
*	Propane as a high performance fuel.
*	Home Shop heat treating.
*	Home Shop composites techniques and materials.
*	Home Shop anodizing.
*	Home Shop electroplating.
*	How to Emission Certify your hotrod.
*	The Ins and Outs of CARB EOs.


Coupled with this effort will be a subscriber-only mailing list
on the Net and a BBS for the net-less wonders out there :-) and
a mail order store where project kits and supplies can be
purchased.  This is not new; _Circuit Cellar Ink_ does it but
mine won't be the rip-off his is. ($350 for an 8051 SBC indeed!) 
Wouldn't it be nice to buy fuel injectors, MAP sensors, MAF sensors
and the like complete with mating connectors and  data sheets at
reasonable prices? Thought so.

A free sampler edition of the magazine will be available toward the end
of July.  First publication is estimated to commence in the fall.
For a free copy of the sampler edition, send your name and address 
to me at perform@dixie.com.  Subscription and cover prices have not 
yet been set but will have been by the time the sample issue is ready.
For those lacking Internet access, a free issue may be requested
by mailing a postcard to:

Performance Engineering Magazine
1631 Whitlock Road  (I'll have a PO Box for the mag this week so don't spread
					 this too far and wide just yet.)
Marietta, Ga 30066


If you'd like to write for PE, particularly in one of the subject areas
listed above, send me a proposal to jgd@dixie.com.  Pay for articles is
based on the number of published pages and is competitive with 
similar publications.


Privacy Notice:

We believe each individual has an absolute right to privacy and that 
includes the right to control when and where his/her personal information
is used.  To that end, no personal information given to PE including but
not limited to name, address and phone number will ever be 
released to anyone outside PE without the explicit permission of the 
owner (you).  PE will from time to time mail to our subscribers information
we think is of interest.  If you don't want this information, you may
so indicate at any time.

If you would like to be included in a list of names made available to a
carefully selected list of advertisers, please indicate so in your 
correspondence and subscription application.  Remember the default is no
release so if you'd like to receive literature, please so indicate.


John De Armond, Publisher.

PE is published by Rapid Deployment Systems, Inc.

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul  6 13:56:49 1992
Subject: An Old Flame
To: hotrod@dixie.com


Have you ever seen a car in a magazine which just pushed ALL your automotive
buttons? So much so that the image of that car stayed with you long after?

In the early eighties, Rod Action featured a '29 A track roadster which knocked
me out.  It was black, bob-tailed, and sleek. The car looked like the late-
forties dry-lakes cars, and modern at the same time.  Everything about it was
perfect.

Though I save most of my magazines, somehow this issue got away.  For the last
three years I have searched for another copy at every used magazine shop
I could find.  Three weeks ago I spotted a copy of the tenth anniversary issue 
of Rod Action (August 1982).  That issue was a collector's piece and very few
ever made it to the used racks.  I opened it up, and there it was, my old flame.

I still love the way that car looks, ten years later.  The rod was (is?) owned
by Phil Wren of Lithia Springs, GA.  Anyone know if that car is still around?

--
Dave Tartaglia    indy@immacc.prepnet.com             === ZZ-|O\- .. _   
                                         VAROOOOM!......=(_)-=======(_)===

----------
Posted by: Dave Tartaglia 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul  6 18:27:02 1992
Subject: An Old Flame
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> Have you ever seen a car in a magazine which just pushed ALL your
-> automotive buttons? So much so that the image of that car stayed with
-> you long after?

 Yep.  In Petersen's Engine Swapping guide, circa mid '70s.  A '53
Studebaker Silver Hawk, dechromed, black, lowered, with meats.  In the
first shot there's a 454 Chevy and 4-speed on a dolly in the foreground.
In the last shot the engine's in the car.  'kin gorgeous car.   Oooh,
car.  I love you, car...

 I've been looking for one of those cars for nearly 20 years.  One
wasn't for sale; the other was rotted so bad I could push my finger
through the sheet metal.

 The '53, BTW, was the model change year - after that, they kept adding
chrome, tailfins, and whatnot.  But the '53 is *slick*.   
                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul  6 18:32:18 1992
Subject: Re: An Old Flame
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>-> Have you ever seen a car in a magazine which just pushed ALL your
>-> automotive buttons? So much so that the image of that car stayed with
>-> you long after?

Oh gawd, let me count the cars.

Shelby Cobra.
Any of the ZZ Top Zed-Sleds, particularly the Caddy.
Any early datsun Z with tasteful ground effects and paint deep enough
  to swim in.
Anything that breaks 200 mph.
Anything that burns fuel.

See, I gotta make this magazine go so I can feed my addiction.  The 
addiction of speed.

Speaking of that, anyone see "Inside Winston Cup" on TNN this weekend
where they did the first part of a series on Rousche Engineering?
I drooled on myself the whole time.  300,000 sq ft under roof, 
12 dyno cells, more pristine collectables than could be seen in one
camera shot.  What a life.  best part is I got it on tape.

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul  6 19:49:46 1992
Subject: Re: An Old Flame
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Yeah, Rousch's place is a major dream scenario ain't it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I liked the part..."you can't shoot that     and you can't shoot that" when they 
got to the dyno dept. What I wouldn't give to work there!!!
300,000 ft^2 is a nice place, I could have a room for everything.
The R&D that goes on there is, is uh...COOL(?). Lack of enough
expressive words.
Cain't wait for part II!!!
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Cyclone GT *385*/427 3 deuces and a 4spd with a 9"locker
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto (now deemed repairable)
1949 1/2 ton Chevy pickumup truck 350.00
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  7 01:55:54 1992
Subject: OH NO! Ford or Chevy???
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> gangs, is opinions on each car such as.......Any personal
-> experiences, both good and bad with either car, or anything else you
-> can add. I like both cars but being 6'6", the Camaro is a better fit.

 If you want a Ford, buy a nice clean Fairmont Futura.  Since you're
talking about an '84, you'd have to retrofit the good suspension, trans,
and motor anyway.  It'll all bolt to the Fairmont, which was the
original platform for the new Mustangs.  Your insurance rates will be
substantially lower in many cases, it'll attract much less attention
from the Federales, and you'll even have a usable back seat to haul
women and beer buddies.

 Otherwise, pick whichever car seems to be in better shape.
                                                                                                                     

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  7 05:12:09 1992
Subject: Address list 6
To: hotrod@dixie.com


** Wheels
--------------------------------------------------------------------

ACRA Custom Wheels                                      10/84
PO Box 1292
South Bend, IN 46624
800-348-2803
219-233-3114

American Racing Equipment                               10/84
1505 E. Warner Ave.
Santa Ana, CA 92705
800-854-7129
714-641-1455

Appliance Industries                                    10/84
Division of Dynamark, Inc.
1333 S. Bon View Ave.
Ontario CA 91761
800-854-1757
714-947-1212

Bassett Racing Wheels
PO Box 55
Bassette WI 53101
414-877-3312

CWI - Custom Wheels Inc                 inexpensive steel wheels
10221 Prospect Avenue
Santee CA 92071
619-448-2560
fax 619-448-9028

Cal Chrome                              10/84
20974 S. Santa Fe. Ave
Long Beach CA 90810
213-830-4444

Center Line Performance Wheels
13521 Freeway Drive
Santa Fe Springs CA 90670
310-921-9637

Carroll Shelby Wheels                           10/84
19201 S. Figueroa St.
Gardena CA 90248
800-421-1269
213-538-2918

Cragar/Weld Wheels                              10/84
19007 S. Reyes Ave.
Compton CA 90221
213-639-6211

Custom & Commercial Wheel                       10/84
14278 Valley Blvd.
La Puente CA 91746
213-961-4435

Dayton Wheel Products                           10/84
1147 S. Broadway St.
Dayton OH 45408
800-862-6000
513-461-1707

Empco Industries                                10/84
900 Allen Ave
Glenadle CA 91202
213-532-5451

Epsilon Wheel Corp.                             10/84
10889 Wilshire Boulevard
Suite 860
LA CA 90024
213-879-7777

Fast Wheels                             wheels
1924 E. 6th St
Tulsa OK 74104
918-599-9022

Golden Wheel Corp.          Enkei wheels            10/84
1250 Mahalo Pl.
Compson CA 90220
213-537-4232

Halibrand                               wheels
PO Box 711389
Santee CA 92072
619-562-7930
800-824-7947

Hi-Tech Wheels          (formerly Shelby International)     10/84
13107 Ventura Blvd.
Studio City CA 91604
213-655-7032
800-423-2684

Jim Gilliam's Enterprises               Dura-Light wheels
Rt 1 Box 187
Meeker OK 74855
405-279-2692

Jongbloed Modular Wheels                10/84
1521 McFadden Ave.
Santa Ana CA 92705
714-547-3073

Keizer Aluminum Wheels
PO Box 50188
Phoenix AZ 85076

Keystone Wheels Inc             10/84
Division of Dynamark, Inc.
1333 S. Bon View Ave.
Ontario CA 91761
800-854-1757
714-947-1212

MRT                                     carbon fiber dirt track wheels
800-643-3625

McLean Wire Wheels              10/84
1880 S. Betmor Lane
Anaheim CA 92805
714-937-9036

Pacific Wheel Co.               10/84
1321 W. 17th St.
Long Beach CA 90813
213-423-7025

Positrade Corp                  10/84
7 Greek Lane
Edison NJ 08817
201-225-3561

Progressive Wheel               10/84
14435 S. Avalon Blvd.
Gardena CA 90248
213-538-3561

Road Runner Industries          10/84
13000 S. Avalon Blvd.
Gardena CA 90248
213-327-7730

Rocket Industries               10/84
9935 Beverly Blvd
Pico Rivera CA 90061
213-699-0311

Streaker Racing Wheels          10/84
5636 Schull St.
Bell Gardens CA 90201
213-806-3347

Superior Industries Int'l       10/84
7800 Woodley Ave.
Van Nuys CA 91406
818-781-4973

TDC/Jackman                     10/84
1035 Pioneer Way
El Cajon CA 92020
619-440-1014

US Mag/Parnelli Jones           10/84
17036 S. Avalon Road
Carson, CA 90746
213-538-2875

Western Wheel                   10/84
14500 Firestone Blvd.
La Mirada CA 90638
800-854-3353
800-422-4584 CA only
                                                                                            

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  7 05:19:27 1992
Subject: Flathead mods.
To: hotrod@dixie.com


*>>> The ute story continues......
                                  just hoping to pick-up        
     (ute...pick-up ha ha) some ideas on what a Flathead likes
     best. It's a '53 (110 hp) and we would like to know of others
     experiences with these. Are twin 97's *really* better than triples ?
     Are Evans hi-comp. heads better than Edelbrock/Offenhauser (natch...
     check the .sig* 8->...) and would Fenton headers be .signifigantly more
     higly tuned than a '49 (right side) manifold and the '53 (left side) with
     the crossover blanked off ? What can I do (easily and *cheaply*) about the      distributor ? What about the rumour I heard in the pub last night that if       you replace the pitman arm with the one off a mid fifties F-100 you can         tighten up the steering response by it's reduction in turns (lock to lock)
     of 5.00 down to 3.75 ? Would I need arms like Swartzeneggar? More important     would my girlfriend ? What ratios did sedans run in the diff.? Certainly a
     lot taller than 4.11 (all Mainline utes) 'cause we won't be drag racing...
     well maybe a little...8->
                              We got the plot handling much better after an 
     extra leaf in the rear springs, a panhard rod on the back axle and heavy
     duty sway bar with gas shocks on the front...also some 15 x 7 wheels off
     a Galaxie for a better footprint. All of this is suspended by polyurethane
     bushes which I must add *are* the business.
                                                Now if we can just get a few         more ponies to come live under the hood...1950's ponies you understand...
     musn't upset the wide whites and moons. Not to mention the lakes pipes...
                                                                      8-> 8->
 

----------
Posted by: emory!minyos.xx.rmit.OZ.AU!rxkgre (Geof Evans)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  7 10:55:27 1992
Subject: Re: OH NO! Ford or Chevy???
To: hotrod@dixie.com

BTW: One of the 1985 Z-28's I looked at was a former GM proving  
ground (Mesa, Az.) test car. The car was real solid considering what  
it must have gone through. The only problem was the car belonged to a  
girl who's dad worked there (proving grounds) in the dyno lab and he  
thought he could paint. He couldn't. The metallic brown has some  
bogus spots where this guy didn't prep the body correctly.

I also commented to the owner that the air conditioning was pumping  
out almost warm air.The girl told me that because it was a  
"performance" car, the air conditioning was weak. BEEEEEP Wrong  
answer. Dad must have coached her on that one. The compressor seend  
to be working fine I think there was a leak in the plumbing somewhere  
that she didn't want top spend the money to fix.

Besides that, I liked the car. It had potential. The motor was real  
tight and still very strong considering it had 80,000 miles on the  
odometer. New clutch and brakes (4-wheel disk). The interior was  
mint. She was a non-smoker (no burns) and the car has T-tops. I think  
it can be had for $3500. She is asking $4,000. I will just hammer her  
on the AC problem and the 1/2 assed paint job her dad did.

----------
Posted by: emory!phoenix.az.stratus.com!scol (Scott Colbath)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul  7 10:54:29 1992
Subject: Re: OH NO! Ford or Chevy???
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>
>-> gangs, is opinions on each car such as.......Any personal
>-> experiences, both good and bad with either car, or anything else you
>-> can add. I like both cars but being 6'6", the Camaro is a better fit.
>

Between Ford and Chevy I can name some pro's and con's I am aware of (P.S. I 
own an 83 Mustang GT and a 90 GT ragtop)

Chevy:

pro's (as according to matt walsh)
-parts are cheaper and more abundant
-more people out there who are experts on them
-late model iroc w/ 350cid have better brakes, suspension
-chips available for computer
-camaroes and TA's ride lower for better handling

con's
-late model chevy's are put together poorly according to my chevy friends. GM 
cars HAVE imporoved in quality BUT the camaro-trans am line has not received 
quality assurance it needs.  Specifically, GM computers are notoriously bad.
-Computer is not so great in GM cars in general.  Chips don't do that much 
(except in grand nationals) from what I've seen.  Usually they raise the shift 
point on auto transmission equipped cars.  I don't get the impression of 'well 
engineered computer system' on these cars.
-carburation:  avoid GM cars with the throttle body fuel injection.  I'd stick 
with a tried and true holley carb or go all the way with port EFI injection or 
else you're getting stuck with a half assed attempt which allows them to put 
the FI decal on the car.
-more expensive

Ford:
Pro's:
-great off the line acceleration
-excellent engine service record (see below)
-well designed computer (on late model stangs)
-cheap
-easy to modify

Cons:
-outdated suspension and brakes (rear drums)
-parts more expensive
-Stupid 4 lug wheels - smaller replacement wheel selection
-an iroc 350 makes a better autocross car
-4 bbl carbs are crap if you want to fix them; they are a special Holley made 
just for Ford that are a bitch to adjust and re-build.

So I guess you could go either way.  I chose my mustang because I wanted 
something reliable; and both have been.  My first stang still survives after 
over 100K of miles, a cam swap gone wrong, three collisions, chicago and 
pittsburgh potholes and hot and cold weather, etc.  In other words it got me 
through hell and back and still works fine.  My new(er) 90 GT has 22000 mi on 
it and hasn't had a quirk, except an annoying clutch sound from mis-adjustment 
and a convertible top problem (covered under warranty).  I'd bet the farm on 
the stang if I had to trust a car to last a long time and they can 
out-accelerate the Gm's off the line.

But oh some of those camaroes have the edge in handling.  It's hard to beat the 
350 carmaro in autocross thanks to its low ride heigth, disk brakes, wheel 
base, and LOTS-O-Torque.  And GM experts abound.  But for the difference in 
cost you could upgrade your stang to 4 wheel disks, better suspension, 
bushings, etc. and put on the GT 40 package and rock and roll.  

I'd love to have an OLD (pre-computer and boring body re-design) camaro - like 
a 69.  I always liked these better than the mustangs from back then.  My cousin 
has a Firebird convertible with a 409 but he'll never sell it (love that car!). 


Happy hunting!

Got a silver spoon, on a chain.  Got a grand piano to prop up my mortal 
remains.
---
MTM 'Matt the Mentat' Walsh
matt@walsh.dme.battelle.org

----------
Posted by: MTM 'Matt the Mentat' Walsh 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 09:27:19 1992
Subject: Re:  Speaking of balancing...
To: hotrod@dixie.com

 I'd like to see a for-real article on what's important and what's overkill. No
help there from the mags we all love to hate. Tips -n- techniques, what can be
done at home and what requires big capital, etc.

 Other articles I'd like to see:

 - Adding blow-through boost to carbureted vehicles (turbo and blower feeds)
 - DIY fuel injection - with an emphasis on minimum complexity and maximum
   user configurability and repairability
 - Anything to do with big-block Buick motors (fat chance :( )
 - Brake conversions and swap lists
 - Automatic transmission hop-ups, rebuilding, aftermarket product reviews
   (ST/TH-400 for me)
 - Low-budget, big-payoff performance tricks

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 12:55:13 1992
Subject: Magazines
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> Been meaning to mention this.  Would it be of benefit to anyone to
-> collect a list of what everyone reads in the way of automotive mags?
-> A list of mag names with subscription info would be of great value to
-> me.

 ASCII and ye shall receive...

** US Car Magazines
***********************************************************

Automobile Magazine                     photo spreads
PO Box 10997
Des Moines IA 50340

Auto-X Magazine
PO Drawer A
Daytona Beach, FL 32018
904-673-4148

Car Craft
Jim McGowan, Editor    (May 90)
8490 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90069

Car & Driver
Ziff-Davis Publishing Company
2002 Hogback Road
Ann Arbor, MI 48104
(313) 994-0055

Car Collector & Car Classics
8601 Dunwoody Pl.
Suite 144
Atlanta GA 30350        no dot matrix - 1000-2000 words - likes color
photos

Chevy High Performance
Mike Magda, Editor  7/92
8490 Sunset Blvd
LA CA 95002
310-854-2222

Circle Track Magazine
Glen Grissom, Editor
8490 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90069

Collectible Automobile          photo spreads
3841 W. Oakton St
Skokie IL 60076
(312)676-3470

Corvette Fever                  Corvette oriented
9501 Potomac Dr
Ft. Washington MD 20744

Drag Racing Magazine
editor: John Brasseaux
8490 Sunset Boulevard
LA CA 90069

EJag                            Jaguar oriented
Box J
Carlisle MA 01741

Hot Rod
8490 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90069

Kit Car
8490 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90069

Motor Trend
8490 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90069

Musclecar Review                (Classic Sixties?)
Tom Shaw, Editor        (Jan 1991)
Dobbs Publications
3816 Industry Boulevard
Lakeland FL 33811
contributions to PO Box 7157, Lakeland FL 33807

Old Cars News & Marketplace  (tabloid)
Iola WI 54990
ph 715-445-2214
fax715-445-4087

Open Wheel
Box 715
Ipswich MA 01839
(617) 356-7030

Petersen's 4WD & Off-Road
8490 Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90069

Pickups & Mini-Trucks
Peterson Publications
8490 Sunset Blvd
LA CA 90069

Popular Hot Rodding
Editors
12100 Wilshire Boulevard
Los Angeles CA 90025

Road and Track
1499 Monrovia Avenue
Newport Beach CA 92663

Stock Car Racing
Dick Berggren, Editor   (07/92)
Lopez Publications
PO Box 715
Ipswich MA 01938
(508) 356-7030
FAX 508-356-2492

Street Rodder                           5x7 B&Ws
1132 N. Brookhurst
Anaheim CA 92801
tel (714)635-9040

Street Rod Action
Eric Pierce, Editor (March 1992)
7950 Deering Avenue
Canoga Park CA 91304
818-887-0550
fax 818-883-3019

Super Chevy
Editor
PO Box 49659
Los Angeles CA 90025
tel (213)820-3601

Super Chevy
Argus Publishers
Bruce Hampson, Editor (Jan 1991)
12100 Wilshire Blvd
Suite 250
LA CA 90025
213-820-3601

Super Stock & Drag Illustrated          B&W only, photo credits
Jeff Burk, Editor
2945 E. Freebory
Duarte CA 91010
fax 818-303-4329

Truckin'                                query first
Steve Stillwell, Editor (05/90)         photo releases on anyone in
photo
2145 W. La Palma Avenue                 typewritten on white paper
Anaheim CA 92801-1785                   captions for all photos
714-635-9040

TURBO Magazine
Kipp E. Kington, Editor (08/92)
9952 Hamilton Avenue
Huntingdon Beach CA 92646
714-962-7795
714-765-2268 FAX

Auto Buff
Super VWs
Rod Action

McMullen Publications  (query first)
2145 W. La Palma Ave
Anaheim CA 92801-1785
Street Cruizin'
Truckin'
Mini Truckin'
Kit Car Illustrated
Mustang Illustrated
Custom Rodder
Sport Compact Car
Auto Sound and Security
Street Rodder
VW Trends
All Chevy
4WD Sport Utility - ed Kevin Wilson - 714-635-9040
Handgun Illustrated
American Survival Guide


** British Car Magazines
******************************************************

Autocar                         new car tests, bios, historical, info
shorts
Haymarket Publishing Ltd.
38-42 Hampton Road
Teddington, Middlesex,
TW11 0JE
tel 01-977-8787
telex 8952440

Auto Express
Ludgate House,
245 Blackfriars Road
London SE1 9UZ                   tabloid newspaper, weekly.

Autosport      (weekly)         racing only
38-42 Hampton Road
Teddington, Middlesex,
TW11 0JE

Cars and Car Conversions
Nigel Fryatt, Editor
Link House Magazines, Ltd.
Dingwall Avenue
Croydon CR9 2TA
England
01 686 2599

Car Mechanics
Mike Penny, Editor
Audit House, Field End Road
Eastcote, Ruislip
Middlesex HA4 9LT
England

Classic and Sports Car          (might take restoration, historical
marque)
Haymarket Publishing Ltd.       (or biographies of auto-related people)
38-42 Hampton Road
Teddington, Middlesex,
TW11 0JE
tel 01-977-8787
telex 8952440


(continued on next rock)
                                       

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 13:16:45 1992
Subject: RE: v-6 Stangs
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> >Anyone out there have an opinion on the V-6 engines in the mid-80's
-> >Mustangs??? I just picked up the Auto Trader and there are lots of
-> >them for reasonable prices.

>    They are dogs!!!  An ex-girlfriend had a 1984 2.8 w/ auto and
> the car was a piece of crap!!  The engine was extrememly noisy, she
> had problems with the air conditioning, bad problems with the brakes,
> the heater coil broke and dumped coolant into the car, and on and on.
> I'd avoid buying one unless you plan on pulling the 2.8 and buying
> one of Kauffman's 429/460 swap kits!!

 Yeah, Rich, but none of your complaints mentioned the engine, which is
what the guy asked about.

 I've built several 2.6s and 2.8s for Capris, and even designed a set of
improved cylinder heads for Hunter Performance in the UK, but, alas,
they didn't get produced.  At least the project got canceled before we
got to the patternmaking stage.  I've had a couple of projects like that
die after I'd spent weeks making patterns.

 The 2.6/2.8 is a derivative of the original Taunus 60 degree V4
introduced in the 1960s.  Ford/Germany put 'em in their little
whatchamacallit FWD car, and sold zillions of them for use as stationary
irrigation pump engines.  They also sold some to SAAB.

 The V4's block was kicked out substantially on the passenger side.
This housed the balance shaft.  The shaft was deleted with the V6, but
the kickout was retained for oil control.

 The engines have six throw cranks for even firing order; gear drive
cams, and a sophisticated cooling system.  The bores have lots of water
jacket around each cylinder. The rod ratio is also pretty good.  Weak
points are rod bolts (over 7000 RPM), the junk fuel pumps, and the
totally doofus water pumps which don't last long and are a bitch to
replace.

 The heads are trash, but there's nothing much you can do about it.  The
2.6 uses siamesed exhaust ports on 1-2 and 5-6.  The 2.8 has separate
ports.  Oddly, engines with the siamesed ports flow more air and make
more power.
                                                                                                

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 13:16:53 1992
Subject: Magazines
To: hotrod@dixie.com


Classic Cars                    ( restoration, collections, photos,
clubs)
Prospect House
9-13 Ewell Road
Cheam, Surrey SM1 4QQ
tel 01-661-4300
tlx 892084 BISPRS G

Fast Lane               (exoticar tests)
Prospect House
9-13 Ewell Road
Cheam, Surrey SM1 4QQ
England

Motor  (merged with AutoCar)

Performance Car
Audit House, Field End Road
Eastcote, Ruislip
Middlesex HA4 9LT
England

Performance Ford
Dennis Foy, editor
PO Box 14
Hazel Grove
Stockport SK7 6HL
England

Performance Tuning
538 Ipswich Road
Slough, Berkshire
SL1 4EQ
fax 0753-22691

Practical Classics              (shop, some history)
PPG Publishing Ltd.
90 Wickham Road
Beckenham, Kent
tel 01-658-3533

What Car?
Haymarket Publishing
38-42 Hampton Road
Teddington
Middlesex TW11 0JE
England


Fast Car

** Australian Car Magazines
***************************************************

Australian Street Rodding       mainly photos - send negatives
PO Box 232
Castlemain
Victoria 3450
tel 054-72-3653

Chequered Flag                  racing, some tests
PO Box 281
3 Glenmore Road
Paddington NSW 2021
tel 02-331-4431

Custom Rodder                   thin Hot Rod, pix
Newstead         (no street address)
Victoria 3462
tel 054-762212

Custom Vans and Trucks          mainly photos, some tests, modifications
Newstead         (no street address)
Victoria 3462
tel 054-762212

Modern Motor                    Supercars, new cars,
the Editor, Modern Motor        motorsport etc.
GPO Box 4088
Sydney NSW 2001

Muscle Cars
Murray Publishers
168 Castlereagh St  (may be changed to same as Street Machine)
Sydney 2000

Off Road Australia              cars, 4wd
3rd Floor
Ryrie House
15 Boundary Street
Rushcutters Bay NSW 2011
tel 02-33-4282
tlx AA27243

Rally!                          rally racing
405-411 Sussex Street
Sydney
tel 02-211-2560

Restored Cars                   70s & earlier Fords, Holdens,
Eddie Ford Publications P/L     American & some European.
Private Bag
Newstead VIC 3462

Street Machine                   (USA)
Mr. Tomm Britten, Editor
Murray Publishers Pty. Ltd.      DHL
54-58 Park Street                PO Box 281020
Sydney 2000 NSW                  San Francisco CA 94128-1020
Australia

Wheels                           Mainly new car tests
Mr. Phil Scott, Editor-in-Chief  (US through DHL as well)
54 Park St
Sydney NSW 2000



** NZ Car Magazines
***********************************************************

NZ Car Magazine (Editor: Donn Anderson)
NZ Car Ltd.
Private Bag 9,
Parnell, Auckland
New Zealand
Covers mainly new vehicles, with a few feature articles on a variety of
motoring topics.




 We auto writers often keep such lists.  
                                                                                                                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 13:47:38 1992
Subject: Re: grose-jets
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>> Some years ago I received some information from a company that makes a
>>device called a "Grose-Jet."  It's a replacement needle valve and seat,
>>
>> Has anyone else come across the critters, and could you look up the
>>phone number?
>>                                                                                                         

Ahh, yes, Grose-Jets...    I remember these - I once got a set for
my 67 Spitfire.  They used to advertise in the back of Road & Track,
but not anymore.  I remember some of the sports car/racing catalogs
used to carry them too. The company was called Grose-Jet, and you could 
order direct from them. They seem to have vanished, maybe you'd have
luck looking through some older back issues of R&T, early to mid 80's.
I looked through some of my old catalog and magazine stuff and couldn't 
find them.

My experience with them was somewhat mixed.  They came with a number of 
washers of different thickness to adjust the float height - something to do 
with where the float tang hits the large ball. The seat was made from brass, 
while the balls were steel ball bearings - one large, one small to seal.
The valves did work pretty good for a while, maybe two-three years, then, 
from wear, the smaller ball fell out and instant carburetor flooding.  

-- 
Derek Deeter                           derek_deeter@mentorg.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 14:23:25 1992
Subject: Re: Speaking of balancing... 
To: hotrod@dixie.com

    
    -> The question is, how much weight can I remove before I have to start
    -> thinking rebalancing the motor is necessary?

     Engine balancing is a real bag of worms.  I've talked to Lunati, and
    they say going to slightly lighter reciprocating components won't hurt
    anything as long as they're all even.

     I'm pretty sure they're right, but trying to explain why would require
    some thought.

Well, the short answer is that if everything is the same weight to
begin with, and you remove the same amount of weight from them, they
end up staying the same weight.  If you have five ten-pound bags and
you take one pound from each bag, you end up with five nine-pound
bags, right?  So you haven't introduced imbalance to the pistons, at
least; that is, one piston won't be heavier than the others as it
travels up and down the cylinder bore; that would induce stress to
that particular con-rod journal on the crank, making it the likeliest
spot for a spun bearing or even a stress fracture.

(Now for the long answer...)

The problem is, of course, that you're putting these nine-pound bags 
on one end of a see-saw on which there's still a ten-pound weight at
the other end -- the crankshaft counterweight (and to a lesser extent,
the bit of the flywheel and clutch at the opposite side of the circle).

A proper dynamic balancing job takes the whole rotating mass of the
engine -- crank, rods, pistons, flywheel, and clutch assembly, basically
anything that spins around inside the engine -- and balances it so that
all the up, down, and around movements cancel each other out.  (Loose
tolerance for racing engines is half a gram or less, BTW, or about a
fiftieth of an ounce for non-metric types.)

So if you keep the piston weights equal to one another but reduced by
a couple of grams, you're probably within factory tolerances for the
stock engine.  (My connecting rods, for instance, came new from the
factory with a 24-gram variation between the heaviest and the lightest;
the machine shop was not impressed with this fact, I hasten to add.)
You won't be introducing differential stress on the crankshaft as the
pistons move, and they are travelling at the highest speed and putting
the highest loads on the crank.  And if the crank and flywheel are in
balance when you start this operation, they'll damp out the imbalance 
in the piston to some extent. 

As a rule of thumb, I'd find the factory tolerances for piston and
rod weight and try to stay as far within those limits as possible.  
For example, using my own engine with its 24-gram rod-to-rod difference,
I'd feel relatively safe going 15 to 20 grams lighter on the piston and
rod assemblies -- as long as they were all the same weight (and if 
possible, the same end-to-end balance).  Any greater difference than
that and I'd want to have a long chat with Joel Kaeding, the guy who
runs the machine shop I use.  (Or with his chief machinist, who used
to build National championship versions of the engine in my race car.)

For the specific application in question, you're lucky because the
aluminum pistons have a fairly low density -- that is, you can shave
off a relatively high amount of aluminum (compared to cast iron) 
before you get a heavy pile of shavings.  The math should work like 
this:

  Look up the weight of aluminum -- how many grams per CC.

  Calculate the number of CCs by which you want to increase your
  combustion chamber volume.

  Multiply the first number times the second to find out how
  much less each piston will weigh.

  Compare that to your limit -- the difference in weight for stock
  piston-rod assemblies permitted by the factory blueprint.  (That
  is, subtract the low spec in the blueprint from the high spec
  and figure that the difference is your limit.)

  If the weight you want to remove from each piston is less than the
  limit, you're happy.  (If the CR reduction requires removing more 
  than this limit, rethink your options; you might want to play with
  the surface of the combustion chamber as well as the piston tops,
  for example, to get your overall increase in volume.  If you
  haven't done much work there, for instance, you might theoretically
  be able to use this to your advantage by unshrouding valves or 
  modifying swirl characteristics.)

  The final step is to machine the piston tops to whichever figure
  you end up with, achieving the best compromise in CR reduction and
  minimal effect on mass.

Remember that this, like so many other things in hot-rodding, is a
compromise.  You're balancing -- no pun intended -- the effects of
lowering your CR against the effects of a slightly out-of-balance
engine.  Remember also that an engine being out of balance in this
way -- that is, with matched piston weights but a minor imbalance
between the pistons and the rest of the reciprocating mass -- will
only cause gradually increased wear on bearing surfaces, while a
pressure spike from preignition can melt a hole in your piston.
Of the two, the high CR is the greatest overall risk for catastrophic
failure; the additional wear caused by a minor imbalance in the
reciprocating mass will, well, let's just say that if you're this far
into it to begin with, you'll probably have the engine apart to give
it new rings and valves long before the bearings wear out anyway.

--Scott

----------
Posted by: Scott Fisher 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul  8 21:22:45 1992
Subject: Magazines
To: hotrod@dixie.com


    Date: Tue, 7 Jul 1992 18:39 EDT
    From: hotrod@Dixie.COM (The Hotrod List)

    Been meaning to mention this. Would it be of benefit to anyone to 
    collect a list of what everyone reads in the way of automotive mags?
		      ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Man, that Dave sure reads a lot!!
Well, here's one he missed:

Classic Auto Restorer
About old cars, lotsa "How To" stuff (although it's mostly
simple stuff, and restoration oriented in any case).
Good photography and more details than many other (american) Classic car
rags.  They also know good not-quite-so-old cars when they see 'em.
They've done the Z car in the past, this month's has got a '69 Corvette
ZL-1. 

Without further ado;
  Classic Auto Restorer
  P.O.Box 520
  Mt.Morris, IL 61054-0520

  Bi-monthly $12.99/year

BTW; I also got in the mail a promo for a new magazine called Racer.
Sounds like an armchair racer's dream.  I get enough racing reports from
R&T.   I'll post a summary of thier hype if anyone cares...
RACER
P.O.Box 25052
Anaheim CA 92825-9925


bruce
miller@cam.nist.gov

----------
Posted by: Bruce R. Miller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  9 10:26:50 1992
Subject: Magazines
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Racecar Engineering is a subscription-only 'trade journal' for the
motorsport industry which is published six times a year.  They also
have good 2000-10000 word technical articles. Recent subjects include
carbon clutches, tyre compounding (from Goodyear's chief compounder),
and a review of the development of Ferrari's F1 engine in 1991. Quentin
Spurring is the editor, Ian Bamsey is the technical editor.

Submissions & UK Subscription    US Subscription:

Q. Editions Ltd                  Eric Waiter Associates
33 Banstead Road                 369 Springfield Ave
Caterham                         Berkeley Heights
Surrey  CR3 5QG                  NJ  07922

UK subscription costs 21 pounds. From EWA, the US $ rates are:

		 Fast mail              Slow mail
USA		 $57.00			$39.00
Canada or Mexico $75.00			$49.00

Car Design & Technology
Anthony Curtis           (Monthly. Some short articles on new cars. Thorough 
Editor                    technical articles (10000 words) with some references
Brackland Publishing Ltd. to SAE & I Mech Eng papers. Mainly roadcars, but it
Brackland House           does have technical articles on F1, rallying etc.
13 Church Street          Recommended, but its a bit expensive from the US.
Saffron Walden            The technical editor is Charles Bulmer).
Essex, UK

A years subscription to CD&T in UK pounds, costs
UK          30.00,  Europe      45.00,  Elsewhere   56.00  

			Andrew  Henry
Sempre  Gilles					bspahh@gdr.bath.ac.uk

----------
Posted by: Andrew Henry 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  9 20:23:59 1992
Subject: re: grose-jets
To: hotrod@dixie.com


>>-> order direct from them. They seem to have vanished, maybe you'd have
>>-> luck looking through some older back issues of R&T, early to mid
>>-> 80's.
>>
>> If there's one thing I'm well stocked on, it's old car magazines.
>>We've converted an extra bedroom into a library, and I'm worried the
>>whole room is going to collapse from the weight.
                         
!!!Wow -  I've been trying to recycle anything older than five years, 
but some stuff always gets overlooked - and it's not the highest priority,
either.
The more I think about it, they might have advertised in earlier issues,
as in the late seventies.

>>-> The valves did work pretty good for a while, maybe two-three years,
>>-> then, from wear, the smaller ball fell out and instant carburetor
>>-> flooding.
>>
>> Hmm.  It looked pretty good on paper.  Do you think the basic design
>>has a problem, or was it just poor construction?
                                      
Probably the materials used - the seat/cage was brass, and the balls were
swagged (sp?) into it; the soft brass couldn't take the pounding from the
steel balls.  Plus there wasn't much room for wear since the smaller ball
was very small - probably around 3/32" (The larger was about 5/16").  
A steel seat would have been more durable.  They sure did flow enough, 
but then again, a Spitfire doesn't require all that much fuel anyway.
I suppose if you keep replacing them on a regular basis, they would be
all right - they certainly were cheap enough.


----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  9 17:53:16 1992
Subject: Re: Tyres
To: hotrod@dixie.com


>>Program??  Which one??  Is it pd or shareware???
>>Details please...


It's free. Just a little program I concocted from a BASIC program someone
put on the net awhile ago.  It's in C, and in case anyone's interested,
here's the source:

/*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/
/*
 * compute tire size for a given metric size
 */

#include 


main()
{
   int i,j;
   int rpm;
   float tiresize = 0;
   float pi = 3.14159;
   int ok,err;
   int tirewidth,tireaspect,rimsize;
   float etwi, eshi, ediam, ecircum, erpm;
 
 for (;;) {
  printf("Enter tiresize (as in 225/60-15) 99 to quit: ");
  scanf("%d/%d-%d",&tirewidth,&tireaspect,&rimsize);
  if (tirewidth == 99) return;
  etwi=(float)tirewidth*.03937;
  eshi=etwi*(float)tireaspect*.01;
  ediam=(2.0*eshi)+(float)rimsize;
  ecircum=3.14159*ediam;
  erpm=(float)63360/ecircum;
  tiresize=ediam;
 
  printf("Tire Spec: Width(in)  Sidewall Ht(in)  Diameter  Rev/Mile\n");
  printf("%3d/%2d-%2d    %5.2f      %5.2f            %5.2f     %6.1f\n",
       tirewidth,tireaspect,rimsize,etwi,eshi,ediam,erpm);
                             
 }
 return;
}
/*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/

It prompts for the tire size, and prints out the width, sidewall height,
and diameter in inches, and Revolutions per Mile.

Sorry, it's not part of any fancy package or anything like that.

Which brings up the question: anyone else out there have any small
but useful automotive type programs they're willing to share?  

-- 
Derek Deeter                           derek_deeter@mentorg.com

----------
Posted by: emory!wv.MENTORG.COM!derekd (Derek Deeter)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul  9 18:47:11 1992
Subject: Re: Tyres
To: hotrod@dixie.com

    Date: Thu, 9 Jul 1992 17:45 EDT
    From: hotrod@Dixie.COM (The Hotrod List)

    /*-------------------------------------------------------------------*/
    /*
     * compute tire size for a given metric size
     */

    #include 

    main()
	{ compute_some(stuff); }

Be careful here;  I'm not exactly sure what Geof wanted for a number.
... And I dont want to belabor the obvious, but...

As a Mark pointed out, the first number is the width in mm --- but note
that it is the width at the sidewalls, neither the width of the rim
nor of the tread.

[I forget the exact rule about the right rim size to use for a given
width; something like between 1/2" and 1" less than the sidewall width?
Whatever, check with Puhn.

The sidewall width is probably a reasonable upper limit to the tread
width. ] 

But it seemed Geof was asking about whether it would fit in his fender
(uh, Guard?) wells.  You'd also need diameter, offset of the wheels and
the shape of the guard well and are you going to turn or just go straight and
...   

Somehow I suspect I haven't told Geof anything he doesn't already know,
but ...   What was the question again?

bruce
miller@cam.nist.gov

----------
Posted by: Bruce R. Miller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 10 16:47:58 1992
Subject: Turbos and heat soak
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>In the chapter on lubrication, however, he makes mention of a problem
>that I've seen mentioned in many other places, but never quite accepted.
>He describes what happens after a turbo vehicle has had a hard run, and
>then the driver suddenly reduces speed, stops, and shuts the engine off
>right away. According to MacInnes (and others?) the sudden loss of oil
>pressure leaves the bearings in a condition where they will burn up as
>the turbo shaft continues to merrily spin on at 100,000 rpm. I don't
>understand how this is possible. 

It's not.  I've run a turbo engine on a dyno with no tail stack on
the turbine exit (for no other reason than I'd not fabricated one yet)
and I could watch the turbine wheel.  The turbine stops almost immediately
when the engine does.  Coastdown is a bit slower when the engine is
running for what might be a not so obvious reason.  If you've ever
capped the intake of a squirrel cage fan and noted how the fan speeds
up, this is the condition that exists during coastdown assuming an 
upstream throttle.  The blower has a high vacuum on it and thus little
drag.  The turbine partially evacuates the exhaust manifold so it is
also running in a partial vacuum.  When the engine is stopped, a different
situation exists.  The turbine is still in a partial vacuum but the 
blower is now at atmospheric.  It stops very fast.

As you surmised, the real problem is cookoff.  I'm not really sure 
a short idle interval really helps.  The temperature decreases asymtotically
with time so once the first flash of visible heat is gone, much more
time is needed to cool to a safe zone.  Water and/or oil cooling are
the real answer.  My solution is simply not to push the car hard for
several minutes before shutdown.  The flow of relatively cool exhaust 
flow helps speed the cooling process.

>Anyway, maybe I'm wrong on all this, but I noticed something else that
>bothered me even more. Nowhere in the chapter on lubrication does
>MacInnes mention the problem of heat-soak from the exhaust manifold,
>and the resultant problems of oil coking and varnishing on shafts,
>bearings, and oil feed lines. This, to me, seems like a much more
>important consideration than the scant few seconds that a turbo
>*might* have to endure moderate RPM's with no oil pressure.

Heat soak from the manifold is not a particular problem.  The gasket is 
a relatively good insulator so not much heat gets transfered.  The 
problem is the turbine housing and the wheel itself which is at least as
hot as the manifold.

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Sun Jul 12 09:22:50 1992
Subject: 73 Pontiac Lemans
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> work).  My question for you is what can he do to the engine for $1000
-> (all he wants to spend), to make it run well and perform better than
-> it does currently.  It has a 350 cu.in. in it now.

 If it was me, I'd go for a 400.  It'll fit right in.  Go for a *good*
rebuild, up the compression some, put in a nice street cam, maybe look
for one of the better pairs of heads.  Put the money *inside* the motor
- you can always add headers, ignition, induction, etc.

 HO Racing Specialties (they advertise in most mags) has a set of tech
notes available for the 400.  They're short and somewhat expensive, but
I've seen the ones for the 455, and they're full of useful information.

 I'd recommend you drop in a 455, except they're bloody hard to find
nowadays.
                                                               

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 13 14:23:09 1992
Subject: re: MacInnes book on turbos
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>
>->relatively small engines.  Nowadays you can drop by the junkyard and
>->pick up turbos for practically nothing - I have a couple of AiResearch
>->jobs in the shed I paid $75 each for.
>
>This never occurred to me - you can get a semi-decent turbo from
>a junk yard?  What are the indicators of wear/goodness?

Good clean and straight impellers with no significant divots from debris
(there will almost always be some dust erosion), no oil deposits on
the turbine impeller, no coked oil in the oil passages and a free
turning shaft.  Beyond that, the best indicator is whether the junque
yard has more than one so you can swap it if it is bad.

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 13 14:52:52 1992
Subject: Re: TBI?
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>What are the benefits or draw backs of a TBI Z/28?
>
>What can be done to enhance the performance of a TBI?
>
>-Tony

I'll assume you mean TPI (Tuned Port Injection).
The benefits are that it is the injection system that GM finally got right.
It is very dependable and low maintenence, injector cleanings are usually
all thats needed.  Unless the (Bosch?) throttle body breaks. (I had a IROC
for 2.5 years, ran 93 octaine, put injector cleaner in every 2-3 mo., and
never had a problem with the TPI).
The only drawback I see is that it takes away the fun of tinkering with
carbs.

The simplest performance upgrade is to put in a air foil in the throttle
body.  It's in almost every perf. mag and catalog I've seen. about +5HP ??
about $50 ??  If you have the time matching all the ports between the
plenum/runners/manifold is good for a few HP too.

I would also put a low temp. thermostat and HyperChip in it.
This combo is the best bang for the buck.

Related questions. 

Does anyone have real data on weather the aftermarket TPI
plenum/runners/manifold sets do any good/harm?  It looks like a waste of $$
to me.

What's a good price for a complete stock TPI setup?

Damon van Dam

----------
Posted by: emory!eng.ufl.edu!dvd
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 13 15:58:56 1992
Subject: Re: TBI?
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>>What are the benefits or draw backs of a TBI Z/28?
>>
>>What can be done to enhance the performance of a TBI?
>>
>>-Tony
>
>I'll assume you mean TPI (Tuned Port Injection).

I assumed TBI= throttle body injection which means it's basically a replacement 
for a carburetor in that it simply bolts on to where the carburetor did and 
relies on an intake to distribute the fuel

TPI = tuned port where there are 8 (or =# of cylinders) separate injectors 
shooting directly into the piston chamber.

TPI is the obvious choice because if you count on a intake manifold you don't 
get even fuel distribution because the runners are different length.

I have seen camaro's with what I term TBI, and I know Corvettes and Mustangs 
use TPI.  Anyone know what year/model camaro's/TA/Z28 comes with what induction 
system?  



Got a silver spoon, on a chain.  Got a grand piano to prop up my mortal 
remains.
---
MTM 'Matt the Mentat' Walsh
matt@walsh.dme.battelle.org

----------
Posted by: MTM 'Matt the Mentat' Walsh 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 13 16:32:22 1992
Subject: Re: TBI?
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Hmmm.  Maybe he did mean TBI, but I'm not sure if they ever put it on 
Z/28's, although I have seen a GM TBI unit on a 1985 Chevy camper w/350
engine.  Basically, it looked like a two-barrel intake with a carb base
on it, with two fuel injectors positioned over the throttle plates.  How
it figured out how much fuel to flow, etc, I'm assuming was through a TPS
(Throttle Position Switch.)

My sister also had a 1985 Mustang GT with an auto, 2-1-2 exhaust and a
TBI setup on it (same basic setup I just described.)

As to how they work, the camper got good gas mileage and did have a little
getup-and-go as compared to the other campers (the only one that seemed
peppier was a 460 Ford, but it sucked down gas like it was water!!!)  The
Mustang was bought new, and I had the pleasure of putting over 40K on it 
myself (my sister never drove it that much, she was with her boyfriend
and I was driving her car. :-) )  It got good gas mileage, and back then
was faster than the 4-bbl/5spd cars (I knew 5 people with them, raced
them all and won every race.)

So, from my experience, they had good mileage, decent throttle responce and
never had a problem.  Your mileage may vary...

-- Steve
stm0@gte.com

----------
Posted by: emory!gte.com!stm0 (Steven McClure)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 13 19:24:39 1992
Subject: re: MacInnes book on turbos
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> This never occurred to me - you can get a semi-decent turbo from a
-> junk yard?  What are the indicators of wear/goodness?

 John would probably know better than I.  I check for nicks on the
turbine blades (a sign something has gone through the turbo, and they
might throw it off balance), and excessive carbon or sludge buildup in
the oil return ports. (a sign of overheating or oil not being changed.)

 You can grab the impeller shaft and wiggle it around, but that doesn't
prove anything on most turbos.  Most modern units use a double sleeve
bearing with lots of clearance.

 It's not unusual to see carbon buildup on the exhaust wheel,
particularly in high mileage engines.  If there's oil on the intake
wheel, it's a sign the seals might be bad, assuming it *has* seals (not
all do) and it's used as a suck-through unit.
                                                                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 13 19:24:43 1992
Subject: AUTO NOTES #2
To: hotrod@dixie.com


=====================================================================
AutoNotes #2, 07/13/92                   copr. 1992, Dave Williams
---------------------------------------------------------------------
  BIX: 'dave2'      RIME at ->CHAOS    dave.williams@chaos.lrk.ar.us
  CIS: 72571,3542   The Courts of Chaos BBS, (501)985-0059
=====================================================================

 Goodyear has announced their new "Aquachannel" tire, which "gives
the appearance of two tires in one."  Goodyear had played with the
idea about ten years ago, probably after noticing Dunlop playing
with dual 100-series tires twenty years ago.  Although the center
sipe of the Aquachannel is pretty big by passenger car tire standards,
it's nothing to crow about for offroad tires.  Basically, the
Aquachannel is just another sales gimmick.

 Hoechst Celanese is developing plastic piston rings.  Once you stop
to think about it, this seems like a nearly ideal application for a
porous, high temperature resin.  Hoechst says several manufacturers
are interested.  Pistons might need slight rework, though, as many
depend on the rings' cylinder wall contact to help cool the outer edges
of the piston.

 While on the subject of plastics, it might be interesting to see what
could be come up with for main and rod bearings.  Given sufficient
crush to retain the bearing, you could have a slick outer surface, for
cold start wear control and enough softness to embed trash particles.

 Ward's Auto World says quite a bit about "forthcoming electrically
heated catalytic convertors."  Strange.  I thought they'd been in
production for a couple of years now.

 The prototype Vipers used the same German 6-speed transmission as
the Corvette.  The production cars will use the new Borg Warner
T56.  The new transmission has an 85mm shaft spacing, taper roller
bearings, organic linings on the synchros, internal rail shifter,
610 Nm torque rating and weigh 57 kg.  The first production boxes
will have a 2.66:1 first and .50 overdrive sixth.  Reverse is
synchronized.  Sounds pretty much like a copy of the German box.

 Cadillac is boasting of their new speed-sensitive power steering
system.  Studebaker had a system that worked about the same - forty
years ago.

 More on the Cadillac Northstar V8:  the conrods are forged and shot
peened, pistons are forged, pins are floating and use bronze rod
bushings, the oil pump is a gerotor type at the front of the crank (like
a Ford Escort).  The oil pan holds 6.6 liters and contains a windage
tray and oil scraper.  The cam chain covers are steel/rubber sandwich
for noise control (like a Nissan diesel).  The DOHC layout uses direct
acting hydraulic followers, like the last-design Vega four.  Valve seats
are three angle.  Valve covers are magnesium.  The EGR valve is electric
instead of the usual vacuum, and the exhaust gases are routed through
the water pump for additional cooling of the recirculation gases and
faster engine warmup.  The starter is, best as I can tell, one of
the new style permanent magnet types.  The water pump is held in the
center of the cylinder vee by six cam locks.  Weight less accessories,
183 kg. (410 pounds)

 I've also seen reports the Northstar has powder-metal rods and
hyper-eutectic pistons.  There may have been some design changes
right at the end.  Still looks like a nice engine, though.  I wouldn't
turn my nose up if one fell into my RX7.

 Audi's new W12 Avus Quattro concept car uses a W-12 engine layout.
That is, a vertical four sitting on top of a 120 degree V8.  A four
throw crank is used, with Yamaha-type five valve heads, direct ignition,
and a Ford 427-style crossbolt main block.  Lest anyone tell you the
W-12 layout is unique, it's been used in both aircraft and automobiles
before, though not within the last 50 years or so.

>From Automotive Engineering:  The January 17 Federal Register, page
2043, contained NHTSA Docket 89-05, notice 09, amends import regs.
Basically, if you want to bring a non-certified vehicle into the USA,
you now have to have a letter of permission from the NHTSA first,
even if it's for "research, investigation, studies, demonstrations,
training, or competitive racing."  Whoops.  I wonder how *that* is
going to go over with the Formula car boys...

 Did you know:  You might see cars or earthmoving equipment with ZF
transmissions.  The full name of this German company is Zahnradfabrik
Zeppelinwerke.  Yep, the people who built the Graf Zeppelin and
Hindenburg long ago.  They got into the machinery business when they
couldn't find outside contractors capable of meeting their standards
for airship parts.

=====================================================================
AutoNotes will be published irregularly as the mood hits.  Contains
no cyclamates, backwards-masked messages, FNORDs, or recycled fibers.
=====================================================================
                                         

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 14 09:23:09 1992
Subject: Re:  Mustang Hard to Start (warm)
To: hotrod@dixie.com

 Sounds like you're pretty close to preignition; have you tried a higher-
octane gas? I believe this problem (I've seen it on several of my cars) is
due to the engine firing slightly before it's over center due to the slow
cranking speed and the spark advance. Other things to try are cooler
thermostats (of course that loses you power and efficiency) and flushing
the cooling system well - what you really want is the heads to stay cooler.

 On a very new, very tight engine you can also get hot starting troubles 
as the pistons expand faster than the block and tighten up. This is why
forged pistons are typically slightly undersized and slightly noisier cold,
to allow for this expansion. On an older engine this is not likely to be a
problem.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 14 14:27:54 1992
Subject: Re: Advance curves 
To: hotrod@dixie.com

    I've read somewhere that the MGB will take a maximum advance of 32 degrees,
    if that helps. Mine would only take about 29 before it pinged. hope that
    helps

Well...

Let's go over the theory and practice of timing advance briefly.

There are two reasons you want to advance an engine's spark:

1.  It compensates for the fact that there's a fairly fixed time
    for combustion to take place, but a variable time between 
    ignition and optimum piston location in the cylinder depending
    on engine speed.

2.  Dynamically modifying the timing advance can help the engine
    get up to speed faster due to reason 1.

The two reasons are interconnected in some ways and distinct in
others.   Let's focus on #1 for a minute.

The total advance (your maximum figure) depends on a lot of factors,
including compression ratio, cylinder head design, induction type, 
and fuel octane.  On my race car, for instance, I can get away with
running 34 degrees of advance -- which is what the dyno said was the
most effective given the rest of my engine setup.  But that's total
advance.  That is, it's where the advance weights max out, which on
the distributor that I had in the race car when I had it dyno-tuned
was about 3000 RPM.  If I'm ever under 3000 RPM on the track with my
gearing, it'll be because there's a full-course yellow.  Any spark
advance between idle and 3000 RPM has no effect on course; I almost
don't need any advance weights on that car.

In a street car, however, you're forced to spend time at 2000 RPM while
you're toodling along behind a bus or something, or looking out for the
donut critics hiding behind parked vans or bushes with radar guns.  In
these circumstances, you want to be able to modify the timing dynamically
in order to help your engine get up to speed.

So your 29-to-32-degree range mentioned above is great for total
advance.  I want to move the point at which I get that much advance.

My question is that I just found out that the distributor in my car
gives its maximum advance at over 4000 RPM.  I'd like to modify the
curve so that maximum advance occurs a thousand or so RPM lower.  With
the curve in my distributor, if I time it so that I get 32 degrees at
3000 RPM, the advance will continue working till I have 38 or 40 at 
4500 where it reaches its limit.  There are cheaper ways to coat the
inside of your combustion chamber with vaporized aluminum, thanks...

The easy answer is to spend $200 on a recurved distributor.  But I
was wondering what steps, even on a theoretical level, I should take
if I wanted to recurve the distributor myself.  Do I have to make
the weights heavier or lighter to move the advance curve around?
Or should I be asking my dyno man?

(I guess I'm just feeling spunky because I did a mild port-match
on this motor when I had the head off and it made an improvement
in the car's performance, so now I'm wondering what else I can do
with a pair of dikes and a Dremel... :-)

--Scott

----------
Posted by: Scott Fisher 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 14 14:49:18 1992
Subject: Re: Mustang Hard to Start (warm)
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Tom Cone asks about a hot starting problem:
I have an 84 H.O. Mustang which sometimes turns over like the
battery is dead or low only when the engine is hot(normal 
operating range). 

The first thing that you need to determine is whether the engine is
firing and pushing back against the starter.  To do this, get the
engine warmed up so that you know the problem will occur, disconnect
the primary power to the ignition, and try cranking it.

If it cranks freely then there is some problem with the ignition timing
being too far advanced at cranking speeds.

If it doesn't crank freely then you have more diagnostic work to do.
Remove all the spark plugs and see how it cranks.  Also look for anything
shooting out of the plug holes (such as water).  Removing the plugs
eliminates the compression load so that the starter power required is
much less; if it still cranks slowly then either there is a lot of
mechanical resistance in the crankshaft/camshaft area or the starter
and related items have a problem (I know, you replaced all these
things but sometimes new parts are bad).

That's about as far as I can go without getting into a dissertation.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net

----------
Posted by: emory!ucsd.edu!btree!hale (Bob Hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 14 15:56:19 1992
Subject: [brownr@dg-rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown): 80-column V8 combination list]
To: hotrod@dixie.com

the data below ought to answer any questions about camaro motors.
courtesy of Randy Brown and John Gravell of the f-body mailing list.

to sign up, write to f-body@boogie.ebay.sun.com

/eli
------- Forwarded Message
From: brownr@dg-rtp.dg.com (Randy Brown)
Message-Id: <9112182233.AA10620@addiction>
Subject: 80-column V8 combination list
To: f-body@boogie.EBay.Sun.COM (F-Body List)
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 91 17:33:04 EST
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.3 PL11]

I can't print 132 columns anywhere here at work, so here is a 80-column version.
I just used some creative compression, no info loss (unless you don't know that
Berlin stands for Berlinetta, or SC for Sport Coupe, or compression ratio is
the number vs. 1, i.e. 8.6 means 8.6:1, and all that).

Maybe I will do the 4 and 6 cylinder versions someday, but I'm really interested
in the V8's.

Randy Brown (have a great Christmas, too)

               3rd Generation Camaro Small Block V-8 Engine Guide

                                                             Rear Axle Ratio
Yr Model  Trans Eng  CR Displace    HP     Torque  Induct Manual     Automatic
          codes         Liter,ci                          std  opt  std  opt
- --------------------------------------------------------------(G92)-----(G92)--

82 SC        A3 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 145@4000 240@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----
82 Berlin    A3 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 145@4000 240@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----
82 Z28    M4,A3 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 145@4000 240@2000 4BBL   2.73 ----  2.73  ----
82 Z28    M4,A3 LU5  9.5 5.0 305 165@4200 240@2400 CFI    3.23 ----  2.93  3.23


83 SC     M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.42  3.08  ----
83 Berlin M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.42  3.08  ----
83 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.42  3.23  ----
83 Z28       A4 LU5  9.5 5.0 305 175@4200 250@2800 CFI    ---- ----  2.93  3.23
83 Z28    M5    L69  9.5 5.0 305 190@4800 240@3200 4-HO   3.73 ----  ----  ----


84 SC     M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.73  3.08  ----
84 Berlin    A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   ---- ----  3.08  ----
84 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  8.6 5.0 305 150@4000 240@2400 4BBL   3.23 3.73  3.23  ----
84 Z28    M5,A4 L69  9.5 5.0 305 190@4800 240@3200 4-HO   3.73 ----  3.42  ----


85 SC        A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  3.08  ----
85 Berlin    A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  3.08  ----
85 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   3.23 ----  3.08  ----
85 Z28       A4 LB9  9.5 5.0 305 215@4400 275@3200 TPI    ---- ----  3.23  ----
85 IROC-Z M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   3.23 ----  3.23  ----
85 IROC-Z M5    L69  9.5 5.0 305 190@4800 240@3200 4-HO   3.73 ----  ----  ----
85 IROC-Z    A4 LB9  9.5 5.0 305 215@4400 275@3200 TPI    ---- ----  3.23  3.42

 
86 SC     M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   2.73 ----  2.73  ----
86 Berlin    A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 155@4200 245@2000 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----
86 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 165@4400 250@2000 4BBL   3.23 3.73  2.73  ----
86 Z28    M5   *L69  9.5 5.0 305 190@4800 240@3200 4-HO   3.23 3.73  ----  ----
86 Z28       A4 LB9  9.5 5.0 305 190@4000 285@2800 TPI    ---- ----  2.73  3.23
86 IROC-Z M5,A4 LG4  9.5 5.0 305 165@4400 250@2000 4BBL   3.23 3.73  2.73  ----
86 IROC-Z M5   *L69  9.5 5.0 305 190@4800 240@3200 4-HO   3.23 3.73  ----  ----
86 IROC-Z    A4 LB9  9.5 5.0 305 190@4000 285@2800 TPI    ---- ----  2.73  3.42
86 IROC-Z    A4#L98  9.5 5.7 350 220@4200 320@3200 TPI    ---- ----  ----  3.27*
*only 74 produced   #only 50 produced                     *Borg-Warner rear axle


87 SC     M5,A4 LG4  9.3 5.0 305 165@4400 245@2800 4BBL   3.23 ----  2.73  ----
87 LT        A4 LG4  9.3 5.0 305 165@4400 245@2800 4BBL   ---- ----  2.73  ----
87 Z28    M5,A4 LG4  9.3 5.0 305 170@4400 250@2800 4BBL   3.23 ----  2.73  ----
87 Z28       A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 190@4000 295@3200 TPI    ---- ----  2.73  ----
87 Z28    M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 215@4400 295@3200 TPI    3.08 ----  ----  ----
87 IROC-Z M5,A4 LG4  9.3 5.0 305 170@4400 250@2800 4BBL   3.23 ----  2.73  ----
87 IROC-Z    A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 190@4000 295@3200 TPI    ---- ----  2.73  3.23
87 IROC-Z M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 215@4400 295@3200 TPI    3.08 3.45* ----  ----
87 IROC-Z    A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 225@4400 330@2800 TPI    ---- ----  ----  3.27*
                                                          *Borg-Warner rear axle


88 SC     M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4000 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
88 IROC-Z M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4000 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
88 IROC-Z    A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 195@4000 295@2800 TPI    ---- ----  2.73  3.23
88 IROC-Z M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 220@4400 290@3200 TPI    3.08 3.45* ----  ----
88 IROC-Z    A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 230@4400 330@3200 TPI    ---- ----  2.77* 3.27*
                                                          *Borg-Warner rear axle

                      
89 RS     M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4400 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
89 IROC-Z M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4400 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
89 IROC-Z    A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 195@4000 295@2800 TPI    ---- ----  2.73  ----
89 IROC-Z M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 220@4400 290@3200 TPI    3.08 ----  ----  ----
89 IROC-Z M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 230@4600 300@3200 TPI    ---- 3.45* ----  ----
89 IROC-Z    A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 230@4400 330@3200 TPI    ---- ----  2.77* ---- 
89 IROC-Z    A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 240@4400 345@3200 TPI    ---- ----  ----  3.27*
                                                          *Borg-Warner rear axle


90 RS     M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4000 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
90 IROC-Z M5,A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 210@4400 285@3200 TPI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
90 IROC-Z M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 230@4400 300@3200 TPI    ---- 3.42  ----  ----
90 IROC-Z    A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 245@4400 345@3200 TPI    ---- ----  ----  3.23


91 RS     M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4000 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
91 Z28    M5,A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 205@4200 285@3200 TPI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
91 Z28    M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 230@4200 300@3200 TPI    ---- 3.42  ----  ----
91 Z28       A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 245@4400 345@3200 TPI    ---- ----  ----  3.23


92 RS     M5,A4 LO3  9.3 5.0 305 170@4000 255@2400 TBI    3.08 ----  2.73  ----
92 Z28    M5,A4 LB9  9.3 5.0 305 205@4200 285@3200 TPI    3.08 ----  2.73  3.42
92 Z28    M5    LB9  9.3 5.0 305 230@4200 300@3200 TPI    ---- 3.42  ----  ----
92 Z28       A4 L98  9.3 5.7 350 245@4400 345@3200 TPI    ---- ----  ----  3.23



                                        Engine codes: (8th digit of VIN)

                                                   H LG4
                                                   7 LU5
                                                   E L03
                                                   G L69 
                                                   F LB9
                                                   8 L98

------- End of Forwarded Message

----------
Posted by: emory!cisco.com!eli
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Tue Jul 14 19:37:56 1992
Subject: Mustang Hard to Start (warm)
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> I have an 84 H.O. Mustang which sometimes turns over like the
-> battery is dead or low only when the engine is hot(normal
[servicing deleted]

 Is your car supposed to have a heat shield over the starter?

 What does the temp guage say when the car cranks slowly?

 Is the air conditioner clutch functioning properly?

 Any sign of water vapor in the exhaust?

 Any sign it is running rich/float sticking?
                        

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 15:52:37 1992
Subject: Auto Notes
To: hotrod@dixie.com

    Date: Wed, 15 Jul 1992 11:26 EDT
    From: hotrod@Dixie.COM (The Hotrod List)


    -> I enjoyed this month's AutoNotes.  I always get a kick out of the
    -> "there's- nothing-new-under-the-sun" approach to automotive
    -> journalism.

     Thanks, James!  I'm glad you like it.

Me, too!

    -> One idea I have been waiting to see again is the Knight Sleeve Valve
    -> engine. Introduced in the late twenties (?) it was used by Willys,
    -> Knight, and a few

     I doubt we'll see a return of the sleeve valve.  The lubrication and
    cooling problems are no problem with synthetic oils and modern high-temp
    design methods, but the W-K sleeve valvers passed some oil through the
    ports.  It'd work just fine, except the smog Gestapo would have
    seizures.

     "Good enough is the enemy of the best" - poppet valve technology has
    been massaged until it's both cheap and reliable.  When you make valve
    and springs in runs of half a million at a time, economy of scale
    becomes a big factor.
                                                                                             

    ----------
    Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 
This got me interested, so I pulled out an article I remembered seeing
about the Stearns-Knight.

Actually, Charles Knight invented the sleeve engine in 1906.  The main
reason he did it was because of the problems of poppet valves: they
were noisy and tended to warp, burn, break and need frequent
adjustments.

An interesting side-note is most of these problems were cured by
improved metalurgy and manufacturing methods.  It illustrates a
counterpoint to the idea of "there's nothing new under the automotive
sun."  Many (most?) of the `revolutionary state-of-the-art'  design
ideas we see _have_ been around ... but they were unworkable until the
materials and manufacturing techniques had improved enough to make them
not only work, but keep working and be affordable, too.

Anyway, Daimler (they liked the "quiet" part!) and some other european
car-makers adopted the Knight engine in 1909.  Later, a few american
makers did too, Stearns and Willys among them. 

The problems with the sleeve engine were the complexity and required
precision; remember, the sleeve _encloses_ the cylinder.
By modern standards, I'd hate to think of how expensive it would be to
produce these sleeves to seal at modern c.r; and thermal expansion to
contend with too.   Knight is supposed to have pointed out that his
engines improve with age; carbon formed between the sleeves and the
cylinder walls to improve the seal!!! 

And again, by modern standards of rpm, responsiveness, etc, I can't
imagine that all that oscillating mass in the valve train would be a
good thing.


bruce
miller@cam.nist.gov

----------
Posted by: Bruce R. Miller 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 14:29:59 1992
Subject: Re: Point ignitions
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>Dave, do you know what a typical ohm value is on one of these things?
>5 ohms sticks in my mind but I may be wrong. I have access to high
>wattage low value resitors and was considering using something around a
>5 ohm 20-50 watt resistor, will this work? Also will the inductive
>characteristics (sp?) of a wire wound resistor effect anything adversly or
>is a ballast resistor typically a wire wound device? 

Ignition resistors have a fairly high positive tempco that is designed to
reduce the current through the coil when it is hot.  Use a regular
ballast resistor.  Cheap enough.


John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 14:24:33 1992
Subject: Re: Point ignitions
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>-> $25 and install a Chrysler electronic ignition box?  A little
>-> knownfact is the box on many motorcycles where it was impossible to
>-> fit a magnetic pickup.
>
> WhatWhatWhat?   I never heard of that!

:-)

> Are there any tricks I should know about the wiring?  That sounds like
>a MUCH less expensive solution than the aftermarket electronic ignition
>conversions.  I was planning on buying another HyFire for my '60 Chev,
>but the Chrysler box sounds like it'd be a more reasonable deal.

Tricks? Not really.  I just hooked it up right from the diagram in
Chilton's.  Some aftermarket units don't need the 2nd resistor in the 
ballast so you can get by with a smaller ballast.  Don't know any
brand names other than K-mart :-)  The only "trick" is when used
with points, the box fires when the points CLOSE so you have to pay
attention to rotor button phasing.

It is VERY much less expensive.  The only down side is 
the stock box is not designed for high RPM so if you plan on, say,
7000 rpm in the '60 chev, either Chrysler's racing box or a GM HEI 
module is more appropriate.  The GM HEI module, bolted to a small heat 
sink, is a very good unit, though a few more dollars.  

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 12:10:57 1992
Subject: Re: Advance curves
To: hotrod@dixie.com


-> Do you get more performance out of advancing the timing?
-> I have a 67 mustang and keep the advance at 5-6 degrees (like the
-> manual says) I could advance it more, but what kind of gain can I
-> expect?

 It is *very* dependent on your particular car and the kind of fuel
sold in your area.

 In a perfect engine with perfect fuel, the spark would fire about top
dead center.  This doesn't work well in real life, so you fire the plug
early.  There are many factors which work for and against advanced
timing, but *in general* many engines like as much as they can get.  My
old 9:1 302 liked 15 degrees in the winter and 12 in the summer.  It was
worth about 2mpg, and the engine was noticeably more responsive.  My old
283 Chevy is supposed to be 6 before, and I can run it anywhere from 10
before to 2 after with no detectable change except idle speed.  It all
depends on your particular motor.

 The standard timing figures are a worst-case compromise - old engine on
Mexican gas in the summer, for example.
                                                                   

----------
Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 13:49:24 1992
Subject: Re: Point ignitions 
To: hotrod@dixie.com


>> my old Accell Super coil on my '74 Chevy van that has points in the
>> distributor. I plan to wire the coil dirrectly to the battery
>> (through a high current relay of course) with 10 gadge wire but I'm
>> not sure if I need a ballast resistor on this beast or not.

> You need the resistor.  This is the Voice of Experience speaking, not
>opinion.  You'll get about 400 miles per set of points without it.
> Though ballast resistors have different ratings, I've found them to be
>mostly the same.  The local parts store sold me a pre-electronic
>ignition Chrysler resistor for $2 last time I needed one; some of them
>price out over $12.
>----------
>Posted by: emory!chaos.lrk.ar.us!dave.williams (Dave Williams)
 
Dave, do you know what a typical ohm value is on one of these things?
5 ohms sticks in my mind but I may be wrong. I have access to high
wattage low value resitors and was considering using something around a
5 ohm 20-50 watt resistor, will this work? Also will the inductive
characteristics (sp?) of a wire wound resistor effect anything adversly or
is a ballast resistor typically a wire wound device? Can you tell I've been
away from point ignitions for quite a while? BTW, I'd look at the one
thats on there already but I can't seem to find the damn thing, this is
why I started wondering if I really needed one on not.
Thanks for the input!

----------
Posted by: emory!tekig5.pen.tek.com!markj
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 00:03:00 1992
Subject: Re: Advance curves
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>Do you get more performance out of advancing the timing?
>I have a 67 mustang and keep the advance at 5-6 degrees (like the manual says)
>I could advance it more, but what kind of gain can I expect?
>Also, what problems are there related to advancing?  (efficiency?  extra
>wear?)

Assuming you're not detonation-limited, there will still be an optimum
advance setting where the engine will make the best torque.  More
advance than optimum means more energy is being expended compressing
the combusting mix than is gained by the earlier combustion and/or
the pressure peak occures BTDC which fights the crank rotation.  
Typical symptoms of non-detonation-limited advance include lower torque,
overheating (because much more energy is absorbed by the pistons and 
cylinders) and in extreme cases, seized pistons characterized by
melting over the whole body of the skirt.  This failure mode 
can sometimes masquerade as oil failure.

Perfect example.  Rutger's SAE car.  We used a Kaw Ninja engine, pretty
much stock except for a very high zoot injection and intake manifold 
system.  We used the Electromotive engine management system which also
does direct ignition and has programmable timing.  The specified fuel
was turbo-blue which has an octane rating of something like 115.  Obviously
an engine designed to run on pump gas is not going to take advantage of that
octane.  During a dyno run I experimented with timing from the keyboard
of the laptop.  Torque continued increasing as I jacked the timing up 
until I reached >> 55 << degrees BTDC!  It slacked slightly after that
and the radiator temperature rose notably.  Incandescent headers were also
noted :-)

Think about this for a moment.  More than 1/4 of the compression stroke is
spent compressing a burning mix!  Narry a knock was heard in this process.
Yes, we'll take advantage of some of that octane next year!

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 18:23:19 1992
Subject: Re: Point ignitions
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Mark asks about ballast resistor values.  I have seen two different
values but the most common is 1.8 ohms.  To find the power that will
be dissipated, first measure the resistance of the coil's primary, add the
ballast resistance, and divide this into 14 volts.  You now have the
current; to find power, square the current and multiply by the ballast
resistor's value.  Note that the resistor should be rated for at least
this much power because when you have the ignition on but the engine
isn't running then the points are probably closed and you are drawing
full current through the coil and resistor.  Operating power will be
less because the points are open part of the time (and some other
factors having to do with inductive time constants).

The inductance of a wire wound resistor is negligible when considered
in the context of an ignition system.

BTW, it's wise to carry a spare ballast resistor in the vehicle.  They
do tend to fail on the road.  This may be why GM built the resistor
into the wiring harness on older cars; the wire from the firewall
connector to the coil was not copper and had a few ohms in it.  These
wire resistors virtually never fail.  Newer cars (with HEI) don't use
a ballast resistor so the resistance wire is no longer used.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net

----------
Posted by: emory!ucsd.edu!btree!hale (Bob Hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Wed Jul 15 19:24:24 1992
Subject: Re: Point ignitions 
To: hotrod@dixie.com


>BTW, it's wise to carry a spare ballast resistor in the vehicle.  They
>do tend to fail on the road.  This may be why GM built the resistor
>into the wiring harness on older cars; the wire from the firewall
>connector to the coil was not copper and had a few ohms in it.  These
>wire resistors virtually never fail.  Newer cars (with HEI) don't use
>a ballast resistor so the resistance wire is no longer used.
>----------
>Posted by: emory!ucsd.edu!btree!hale (Bob Hale)
 
Ah ha! thats probably why I couldn't find the ballast on my van! The
wire going to the coil is a wenie little ~20 gadge tin wire that looks like
it couldn't carry enough current to light a small bulb! Thanks for the
info, I think I'll just break down and buy one. Maybe I can find a heavy
duty one so I don't fry it by pulling too much current from the supper
coil. Come hell or high water I'm going to get the coil to saturate no
mater what the rpm, mega volts dudes, mega volts!

----------
Posted by: emory!tekig5.pen.tek.com!markj
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Thu Jul 23 15:48:58 1992
Subject: Re:  Need Help on Clutch Problem of My F-body Project
To: hotrod@dixie.com

 If it's a cable, the adjusting nut may have backed off. If it's a lever and
link setup, sometimes these have pivot points that move with set-screws to
hold position. A heavy clutch may force this to slide. If you mixed and
matched components, maybe the clutch pedal tang has bent slightly if it's
sized for a smaller, lighter setup. Performance clutches are notorious for
heavier pedal pressure and a stock pedal might be too easily bent. Or none
of the above, and I'll refund yer money.

----------
Posted by: emory!mlb.semi.harris.com!jws (James W. Swonger)
 



From rsiatl!hotrod Fri Jul 24 10:31:55 1992
Subject: Re: Need Help on Clutch Problem of My F-body Project
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Sounds like you need an adjustable link, i.e. rod between clutch fork
and your actual clutch linkage so that you can fully disengage your
clutch fork.  If you have an adjustable component already in the linkage,
then I would start there.  If you don't, then you need to add anadjustable
component.  Some clutches do it in the clutch assembly near the clutch
arm itself, while others sometimes do it with the clutch assmbly immediately
attached to your actual clutch pedal.  Most hydraulic ones use an adjustable
rod betwwen the slave cylinder and the actual clutch arm coming out of 
the bell housing.  one way or the other you need this adjustable component
if for no other reason then the mere installation sometimes.  Was their 
a reason you did not transplant the original clutch linkage?
Mike Brattland
Brattlan@nprdc.navy.mil

----------
Posted by: emory!nprdc.navy.mil!brattlan (CDR Michael Brattland)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 24 11:57:26 1992
Subject: Need Help on Clutch Failure
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Well, yesterday, after I posted	the help message to this group and finished
my lab work, I went home and examed the total system again and found nothing
new. I then turned the push rod to take out the slack(yes, it is adjustable).
I could disengage the clutch again, as I expected. I took off the car to the
street and drove for an hour or so. During the time, I deliberately tried to
put the tranny into reverse to test if the clutch linkage became loose again.
And here it was the damn thing heppened again. It became graduately loose and
loose until I could hardly get into reverse without gear clash with the clutch
pedal fully pressed to the floor. This morning I also checked if the tranny to
motor block bolts were loose and they are not. And ever other thing just looked
fine. The orhter thing I read of is that loosing pressure plate-to-fly wheel
bolts might cause shift problem. Will this be true in my case? I did not put
any thread lock compound to the bolts, since I didn't know I had to at that
time. But I did torque them down according to specifications. Also is it 
possible that it is just normal for a new clutch assembly to settle down? Mine
is a Hayes Street Clutch. 
I know you have been quite patiant if you finish your reading here, I appreciatethat. I would also like to thank those who have followed this line. Your help
is helpful.

Thanks a lot

Jizhong

----------
Posted by: emory!MPS.OHIO-STATE.EDU!HJZ
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 24 12:25:08 1992
Subject: Re: Ignition wires?
To: hotrod@dixie.com

What you want is monel metal, spiral wound spark plug wires. They have lots
of RFI suppression, and very low resistance. Jacobs makes some, with 8 mm wire
and silicone coated outside. JC Whitney usually sells their stuff real cheap.
They have a lifetime warranty. The actual conductor is really small like 40
gauge, and is wrapped in a spiral around a non-conductive core about 1 mm in
diameter. The inductance suppresses high frequency stuff. Jacobs claims that
pure copper wire gets fatigued by engine vibration and will fail quickly.
Jacobs also has a relativly good book on ignition, called something like
The Doctors Guild to Ignition, by Dr Jacobs. I visited them when they were in
LA (they are now in Texas), and had a good look around. They had a few patent
plaques from Jacobs ignition patents. He drives a 10 second camero (with lots
of laughing gas).
-------

----------
Posted by: Jeff Deifik 
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 24 16:47:59 1992
Subject: Re: Ignition wires?
To: hotrod@dixie.com

Greg writes:
"I'd like to dump the OEM resistor plug wires that are on my car. I
checked them with an ohm-meter and they read about 1K ohm resistance.
I'd like to get a set of non-resistance wires, but I was hoping that
someone could give me a quick low-down on different types of non-
resistive wires that are available. I'd still like some degree of RFI
suppression.... if that's possible."

First question - why do you want to change wires?  If they are old and
scroungy then it may be worth it but the resistance itself doesn't
hurt performance.

If you do want wires without resistors then try any of the magnetic
suppression wires.  Most of the aftermarket ignition vendors offer
these.  I like Jacobs because their stuff lasts and it has a lifetime
guarantee.

Bob Hale                                      ...!ucsd!btree!hale
...!btree!hale@ucsd.edu                       ...!ucsd!btree!hale@uunet.uu.net

----------
Posted by: emory!ucsd.edu!btree!hale (Bob Hale)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Mon Jul 27 02:47:36 1992
Subject: Re:::  Diesel turbocharger comments
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>The only thing that keeps 'nagging' at me is that there are, other than the 
>Roots blower on GMCs, no mechanically-driven supercharged Diesels (that I
>have ever been made aware of).  That fact bothers me...  It seems either
>there is some fundamental reason I'm missing, or it just has never been
>deemed worthwhile...

Two factors.  First, the turbo uses mostly wasted energy.  Big win.
Secondly, a properly matched turbo will run in its 65-70% island
on the compressor map.  A roots supercharger is lucky to be 20% 
efficient.  The added intake air heating causes soot and reduces 
power.  An aftercooler is a partial but expensive solution.
Much cheaper just to hang a turbo on the thing.

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 31 03:48:24 1992
Subject: IMPCO EFI
To: hotrod@dixie.com

The setup I have is a standalone carburator substitute type. It monitors engine
temp, tach, NO O2 sensor(although this was promised when I purchased it)
uses a 4" MAS and a trigger module running inductively off of #5.
It uses 4 40# BOSCH injectors and a rather crude mechanical secondary 4-BBL
throttle body (silly thing has the bore entries necked down like a venturi!)
The secondaries begin to open VERY early, just off idle, and the injectors
spray on top of the butterflies. When I am doing <25mph the secondaries are
closed and the injector spray pools and drips!
The DECU(digital electronic control unit) is built around a Motorola 68hc11
microprocessor running in single chip mode.  Talk about a wasted piece of
electronics, they utilized none of the A/D converters and only ~10% of the
available memory on the EEPROM(just to name a few problems).
The front has an array of eight LED's to indicate adjustment levels, a touchpad 
that contains 7 keys, the adjustments are for; Cruise mixture, Idle mixture, 
load enrichment start, load enrichment %, acceleration enrichment start, and 
acceleration enrichment percentage.
Each of these is adjusted by pressing the proper key and rotating an infintely
adjustable potentiometer. The flexibility of these adjustments is great.
the unit has a lot of potential that they left out.
to run 8 injectors through the 6811 would cause overheating, so i am
going to add a LARGE heatsink and a fan to the case. the O2 sensor
will be interesting to add in, at least programming wise, i'd like to use
the built in LED's for a O2 level indicator. I am thinking of using the A/D's to monitor the pressures and temperatures and display them on a LCD display.
with 8 8-bit A/d converters, three I/O ports, baud rates upto 9600,
adjustable clock rate and internal memory the possiblities are endless.

It is a bit pricey, ~1000.00, but i think it is a better deal than the 
HOLLEY line.

AIRSensors
708 industry drive
seattle WAsh 90870
ask for howard

I tried to get him to let me modify the code to utilize an O2 sensor as
my senior project and I promised him that I wouldn't sell it or give it
to anyone but me and the company but his boss said no. too bad, would have
made alot of things easier.


***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto 
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 31 03:56:54 1992
Subject: Re:  351X
To: hotrod@dixie.com

damn dave I wasn't paying attention when you where starting talk on this motor,
I thought it was a 302 conversion. If you havent paid for the pistons and got your 
crank yet, consider using a 400 crank and 351W rods with the correct pistons
this will give you 408CID. bolts right in!
ifn it aint too late let me know and i will give you the part numbers and
addresses.
***************************************************************
Millam E. Tackitt            met@naucse.cse.nau.edu

1967 Cougar XR-7 271/289 4spd/CR 4spd
1968 Galaxie XL-GT 345/390 Auto 
1953 3/4 ton Chevy pickumup truck

Not running... yet:
1965 "A" code Mustang
***************************************************************

----------
Posted by: emory!naucse.cse.nau.edu!met (Millam Tackitt)
 



From hotrod@Dixie.Com Fri Jul 31 17:07:43 1992
Subject: Re: Cougar ramblings
To: hotrod@dixie.com

>looks like my MAS is going south on me, started when i nailed the gas and 
>only got a seriously lean condition instead of the usual blast of acceleration
>then this morning i pull up to a stop sign and suddenly the idle is lean
>and i CANNOT leave the stop. finnaly got her to hit at about 3000 so i let
>her loose and went sideways around the corner and down the street (glad the
>cops were nowhere near). she mellowed back out and ran just fine till i got
>home and tried to put her into the garage. same lean condition and no power
>spun the tires when she finnaly caught. new black streaks :)
>no information in the "tech" information section.
>Anybody know how to check the condition of one of these things without
>a scope?

Sure.  I'm pretty sure that unit outputs a voltage proportional to 
flow so just hang a voltmeter on it and see if the output goes up
when you accelerate.  There should be power, ground, and output leads
so finding the right one is not hard.  GM is fond of the variable 
frequency output so if they used that type, the troubleshooting is
even easier.  Here all you have to do is hook a walkman headphone up 
through a 100 ohm or so resistor (or use a Radio Shack amplified speaker)
to the output and listen for the pitch to change as you rev the engine.

John

----------
Posted by: jgd (John De Armond)