The Capri Tech Page
version of 01/01/1999
brought to you by: Dave Williams
This page: www.bacomatic.org/~dw/capri/capri.htm
Main page: http://www.bacomatic.org/~dw/index.htm
Last Updated: 16 Jul 2003
Author: Dave Williams; dlwilliams=aristotle=net
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1993 18:57:55 -0700
From: [email protected] (Jonas Grumpy)
Subject: Re: Sears RoadHandler Gas Struts ?????
To: [email protected]
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech
In article <[email protected]> you write:
>-> Hi, I was about to buy a pair of these as replacemnt
>-> cartridges for a '76 capri. Has anyone had these? Are they as long
> Don't bother. Get the KYB Gas-A-Just strut inserts. Also replace the
>right outboard rack bushing, the steering shaft flex-thing, and both
>rack mount bushings. Ford made them out of compressed snot, or
>something, and if they get any oil on them they turn to goo.
Holy Cow someone who actually knows something about Capri's!!
Did you own one of these fine gems? I already replaced the bushings
that mount the sway bar to the control arms and the bushings that
mount the bar to the frame. Holy cow was that an experience. The
bushings I bought from ford did'nt look anything like the old
ones that were on my car until I spent 45 minutes to bolt one on.
I have been asking around about KYB and some people say that they
recently went up in quality and some people say they are still crap.
I think I'm just gonna sell the car. It runs and looks good. Boy did
ford screw a basically good design up, or what? I have the 2.3liter
and its got less power than a blender. The factory rates it at 88hp
and the thing still dont get half way decent mpg. This car was
only marginally more fuel efficient than the V6.
--
Use the above at your own risk!
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:44:58 -0400
From: [email protected] (David R Wells)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Front wheel bearings?
To: [email protected]
>I think my front wheel bearings are gone as the tops of the tires can be
>moved a half inch or so. The Capri Club of Chicago's pages allude to a
>certain range of Camaros that have the same size outer bearing, but no
>further details. Does anyone know more about this? I'm not looking
>forward to tracking down NOS stuff & especially paying for it?
I'm afraid that I'm the guilty party who put that piece of information on
the web page. I've been trying to track down the source of that wisdom for
some time. Apparently, it's a trick from ex-Ferrari mechanic, current Indy
Lites mechanic, and Capri Club of Chicago member Chas Long. Mr. Long is
notoriously difficult to contact because of his racing schedule. He has also
moved since the last Club phone list came out. OTOH, I bought the my '74
2800 from Chas, and it's still got plenty of his crazy modifications on it,
and they do work.....
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 11:10:10 -0400
From: Mark Wilson
Subject: [capri-list] RE: '74 Rear Axle Bearings & Carrier Bearings
To: [email protected]
>Check with Mark Wilson ([email protected]). He did a lot
>of digging a short time ago when I thought I needed bearings, so
>he may be able to help you out.
>
>Note to Mark: If you can supply the bearings you might want to
>send a message to the entire mailing list.
Thanks, Larry.
I have Capri Mk I rear wheel bearings and differential bearings,
if anyone is interested. The Capri II uses different rear
wheel bearings, but may use the same diff. bearings. I'll
have to check my catalogs. If I recall correctly, the center
section is similar/same, but Ford, in their infinite wisdom,
changed the axle tubes and the outer flange (where the wheel
bearing fits), and the rear brakes.
The Mk I rear wheel bearings I have come from three different
sources, including the U.K. All have the press-on ring. I even
found some SKF bearings with the 4-bolt flange that holds the
bearing, axle, and backing plate in place. (Ford used SKF
bearings on the rear of the Mk I Capri.)
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 18:13:49 +0200
From: "toni.riffel"
Subject: [capri-list] Aussie/South African Mk.I`s and Mk.II`s
To: [email protected]
I like to know something about Australian and South African Mk.I`s and Mk.II`s.
I have no idea how these Capri`s were equipped. On the Techno Classica (
Europes biggest indoor oldtimer event ) i`d bought an australian Mk.I sales
brochure from 1969 and i saw that these particular Capri`s are pretty
different in their view against our german ones.
The GT wears stripes as the Perana V8 Capri, on the tank cap is a "GT" badge
like our "RS" badge. The badge in the steering wheel is red and shows the
british crown ( ? ), ours are black with the Capri motif. Are there more
diffenrences, maybe on later cars ?
Brett Guthrie from NZ sent me a chromed, orange GT badge ( thanx again, Brett
), he says that such badges were also used on earlier australian Capri`s. How
many others were used, and wich ones ( maybe L, XL ) ? He also told me some
about the funny "Superoo" badge.
And, can anyone tell me, how i can get these badges ? ( old parts or
reproduction parts dealers )
If someone collects australian and/or s. african brochures, i like to exchange
scans about them.
That`s all for now, see you
Toni
Toni Riffel / Wuppertal / Germany
[email protected]
72 Mk. I 3.0 GXL ( D )
84 Mk.III 2.8 Super Injection ( D )
Date: Thu, 22 May 1997 15:07:47 +1200
From: Simon Quested
Subject: [capri-list] Rubbers ;-)
To: [email protected]
Hi All
I have found a lady who sells Vintage/Classic car parts out of a
converted shed in her back yard. One of the main lines is automotive
rubbers door/windscreen/boot etc. I have just ordered a new set of
door rubbers for my '72 MK1
Here's the price list (For '69-74 Capri's if you would like me to
see if she has parts for MK2's mail me)
Boot Rubber 3.2 m US$40
Door Rubber (both) 7.2 m US$85
Front Windscreen ? US$90
Rear Screen ? US$90
Filler Strip ? US$25 (this is
the silver insert)
Thats going on todays exchange rate of NZ$1 = US$0.69
She takes cash only (I don't think the tax people know about her ;-)
If anyone is interested mail me.
Joe I have just finished your O2 sensor display It will take a week
or 2 to get to you. Have you got an O2 sensor yet?
If not get a 3 wire!!!
Date: Wed, 21 May 1997 22:37:56 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] CAPRI RACING (fwd)
To: [email protected]
George P Harkless wrote:
> ... I was looking for some information for some
> "bastardsized"
> CAPRI rear axle parts. ... What I realy
> am interested in finding is actually, a limited slip differential, that
> can be purchased here in the states at areasonable cost. ...
> What I have now is a welded diff. and while it is vastly better than a
> stock diff. I feel that this may be one area that is still slowing tha
> car down.
I agree that the stock diff is a major limitation in a race car, but it
always amazes me that welded diffs actually work at all on road racers!
The best limited slip available for the Capri is a Torsen type diff. In the
USA you can get them from Team Blitz. They are not exactly cheap; I believe
they cost nearly $1000. On the other hand, that's about what one of the old
ZF clutch type LDSs sells for these days. Norm at Team Blitz told me he had
one of those in his race car a while back, but since he got the Torsen he
uses the ZF for a paperweight...
I believe Quaife (sp?) also makes a diff that fits the Capri. The Quaife
unit is somewhat similar to the Torsen, but it reportedly won't handle as
large a torque ratio between the wheels. They are also mechanically a bit
more complex. I'm not sure who sells Quaife diffs in the USA.
Date: Mon, 14 Jul 1997 05:59:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] Solo II DSP Capri?
To: [email protected]
-> --How much torque can the 3.89 axle from the 1600 or the 3.44 from
-> the 2000 handle? Would they wilt under the assault of a modified
-> 2.8?
I've run one behind a V8 with no trouble. Those Sachs rears are quite
strong.
-> --Was there ever a limited slip made for the MkI? Impossible to find
-> today?
There were Euro ones, but no US ones got it. ZF used to sell one
that'd fit for about $1000. You might be able to get one from Europe.
However, would this be legal for SP? The update/backdate rule applies
to US spec cars only.
-> --Can you go wider than 7" in the wheels without causing interference
-> problems?
I had to roll the lips slightly with custom negative offset 15x7s. An
8" wheel would require little frog-car tires to clear the fenders, plus
you'd be going back to positive scrub, whereas a proper 15x7 will give
you center-point steering.
-> --What are the chances of getting decent bushes for these cars?
-> Should I just buy Delrin blanks and learn to make them?
The inner control arm bushings seem to stay pretty well intact. I left
the stockers in on the last one I built. I'd use polyurethane on the
bar-to-arm bushings nowadays. The sway bar bushings are critical, use
poly. Fortunately the bolt spacing matches up with most generic bar
bushings. The front bar also tends to shift left-to-right under
cornering, particularly braking and cornering, which gives a mushy feel.
Look at the wipe marks after a hard run. McMaster-Carr or other tool
supply places carry split rings which can be clamped on either side of
the bushing to retain the bar.
The stock leaf spring bushings have been fine with me.
-> --Steering rack bushes are illegal to change in SP--$*&#(*?! I'd
-> love to hear that they are OUT OF PRODUCTION for the MkI, in which
-> case I can substitute something reasonable. What's the scoop?
They are gone, gone, gone. Ford phased out all Capri inventory years
ago. Unfortunately the stockers were biodegradable rubber and the
design sucked anyway. I welded one steel and one aluminum strap under
the rack to bolt it down solidly to the crossmember, then bolted the
original U-clamps and the jellied rubber over it to hide it all.
-> --How hard is it to install a Panhard rod? Dave Williams, I recall
-> you doing this on one of your cars? (I still have the disk you sent
-> me, but having just moved I haven't dug it up yet)
No big deal. I already had lowering blocks between the axle and
spring, so I attached the end of the bar to the lowering block on the
passenger side. The bar barely clears the parking brake linkage and
runs to almost to the spring on the driver's side. 3/16 1" angle iron,
triangulated to the "frame rail" and spare tire well makes the chassis
bracket. Sounds like it would be flimsy but it has held up fine for 13
years. The arm running to the tire well eventually fatigued the metal
and popped a chunk out, still welded to the arm. I used two big pieces
of .090 steel plate to sandwich the thing back into place.
The Panhard itself is ordinary 1" square, .062" wall steel tubing with
3/8" rod ends. I'd recommend the Teflon lined rod ends for longevity.
Pot the whole rod end in silicone sealer or road grit will eat it up in
a year or two.
-> Any answers, comments, or accusations of lunacy are welcomed!
One reason I stopped autocrossing the Capri was the local SCCA region's
courses were so damned small I had to back the thing up to get through
their silly little miniature courses. The Capri has a long wheelbase.
See if your locals are playing this game or not before you try to play.
Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 10:11:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Solo II DSP Capri?
To: [email protected]
-> Did you use long shackles to alleviate the roll steer?
Yep. They're real long. I forget how long now... that's why I have 2"
lowering blocks to get stock ride height back. You *must* have a
Panhard or other positive axle location to do this.
Of all the mods I made to the car, the monster Traction Master front
bar and the Panhard made the most difference.
-> That's what I'm getting ready to do with the '72...too bad you're not
-> allowed to raise the rack either.
You have bump steer? I didn't need to change anything on mine.
Rather than raising the rack, modify the steering arms. They're little
weenie forgings bolted to the struts. Unbolt, place in hydraulic press,
and adjust as required. I always meant to play with Ackermann that way
but never got around to it.
Date: Thu, 07 Aug 1997 16:39:01 +0200
From: Myron Alcock
Subject: [capri-list] Questions about my Capri.
To: "[email protected]"
I've got a Capri and I sort of need to know what kinda parts it =
Originally had, not that I'm a stickler for originality but I need an =
idea of what the part is before I can get it replaced/repaired...
My car is a Mk1 1973 Ford Capri Perana. (Based on the 3L XL) Perana is =
the Basil Green modified Capri. He took a Windsor 302 massaged some =
serious power out of it and stuck in the car (which was straight from =
the factory). I assume it's mostly original except for the rims, (14 =
in), I have the original rims but they need to be re-chromed (13 in's).=20
1st Question. What are the Biggest tires I can put on the back? (At the =
moment I have 185/60's all round)
2nd Question. Are steering columns Std throughout the range? (I'm =
assuming South African built cars were built to U.K std's.) =20
3rd Question. What was the original gearbox that came with the 3L XL? =
The current is a Ford 4-spd toploader...(which I just broke =3D(.
4th Question. Very similar to 2nd question, are parts generally std =
throughout the range? I.e.
could a windshield be transferred from a 1600 -> 3L ? Doors, suspension, =
etc...
5th and last question. If I were to upgrade the brakes (entire =
assembly) what is a good idea?
I know it's quite a few questions, but currently the car is sitting in =
my garage waiting to be driven...and I need to drive it. (It's =
addictive.)
Thanks
Myron Alcock
1973 302 Perana
No 383
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 1997 21:35:53 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Questions about my Capri.
To: Myron Alcock , [email protected]
Myron Alcock wrote:
<>
WOW! That's a great Capri!
If I remember correctly the later Perana V-8 Capris came with 14" rims, so
the ones you have may actually be correct.
<<1st Question. What are the Biggest tires I can put on the back? (At the
moment I have 185/60's all round)>>
185/60-14's are definitely a little too small. Early Perana Capris used the
same 185/70-13's as the V6 modelsIIRC the later Perana was originally
equipped with 195/60-14s, which is almost exactly the same diameter.
If your 13" wheels are 5.5" wide or wider you can use 205/60-13s, which are
a bit shorter than the standard tires. Anything wider and you will have to
watch out for clearance problems in front. I've heard that 225's will work
in back without much difficulty, but I have not tried it myself. A
225/60-13 is a bit large in diameter while a 225/50-14 is a bit small, but
niether one is too far out.
<<3rd Question. What was the original gearbox that came with the 3L XL?
The current is a Ford 4-spd toploader...(which I just broke =(. >>
The gearbox for the 3.0L is nothing like the one for the 302, and it's very
unlikely that it could be used to replace your toploader. Since the car is
so rare I strongly suggest trying to repair your existing transmission, or
obtaining an exact replacement. If it can't be repaired and you can't find
another one, try a Borg-Warner T-10 (used on Mustangs and other American
V-8 powered cars until the late '70s), or a T-5 5 speed. If you go with the
T-5 you should seriously consider spending the extra money for one of the
SVO heavy duty models (about $US1200).
<<4th Question. Very similar to 2nd question, are parts generally std
throughout the range? I.e.
could a windshield be transferred from a 1600 -> 3L ? Doors, suspension,
etc...>>
Yes and no. Glass is mostly standard, but North American models have a
thicker windshield (6.3 vs. 5.0 mm) Most outer body panels are common, but
some of the structural parts are different (thicker) on the V-6 models.
Presumably your Perana is the same here. Your Perana's suspension is almost
certainly different, given the V-8's much greater power and weight.
Date: Sun, 10 Aug 1997 02:13:42 -0500
From: "Barry G. McKinzey"
Subject: [capri-list] Brake pedal switch
To: Capri list
Hi Everyone,
I think someone posted a little tip about the brake pedal switch from a
BMW being the same size as the Capri's but made of metal instead of flimsy
plastic. They gave a part number, too. I have been through a hundred or two
of the more recent posts and still haven't found it. I'm falling asleep
after every few reviews of posts, hence this post. Could whoever posted the
tip do so again please?
Date: Thu, 20 Jun 1996 15:53:13 -0500 (CDT)
From: David Schwarze
Subject: RE: Capri swap Q's
To: [email protected]
To the original poster of this thread, if your '72 2.6 Capri has the
deluxe gauges in it (speedo and tach surrounded by separate micro-sized
oil pressure, volt, fuel, and water temp gauges) then it is one rare
puppy, and I would consider buying it from you if it is in decent shape.
If I can't afford it, I know some collectors that can, and would be very
interested in the car. I'd hate to see one of those get dismantled.
>-> --2800cc V6 with 4-barrel (and worry about shredding the Hummer
>-> 4-speed)
>
> Sounds like you've read that damned Ganahl book. Half of everything in
>there is either outright wrong or twisted. The Capri 4-speed is plenty
>strong, period. Now, the shifters suck road kill, but that's an
>entirely different matter.
Dave, you still da man but I have to disagree with you on the strength
of that 4-speed. I've broken two of them. Most recently sheared all
the teeth off of third gear when I dropped the clutch on the freeway.
With the stock 2.8 and a 2-barrel no less. Broke the other one with a
mildly massaged 2-liter 4 banger. I hope to one day swap in a different
kind of transmission to fix the reliability problem, but for now I'm
just babying it. I'm not hard on transmissions - I don't do anything to
the Capri that I haven't done many times on the Mustang with no ill
effects. No powershifting or anything. I do agree that the shifter
sucks rocks though. It's a bad design, and it tends to break also.
> A 302 with an aluminum intake and iron heads weighs very little more
>than the V6; close enough the ride height and handling don't change
>enough to notice.
I've heard similar things, although I've never done this swap. I would
put in some stronger springs though.
>-> --Rover V8 (light, but GOK where to find the appropriate parts)
Gak. Not worth the trouble.
>-> --Ranger/Explorer 4.0L six (assuming the motor mounts haven't changed
>-> since 2.6/2.8 days, although rebuilding the EFI wiring harness could
>-> take decades)
>
> I suspect a 2.8 carb intake would work.
I've got a book that says it won't. But maybe it's that one which you
says contains all the wrong information (something like "How to HotRod
your Ford 60 degree V-6). If anyone wants to test this, I have a couple
of 2.8 carb intakes lying around.
>There has been some discussion
>about the 4.0 on the list a year or so ago. Basically, it's a massively
>bored 2.8. Other than that, nobody knows anything, at least nobody on
>the list. It would make a very interesting conversion indeed!
Hmmm... are you sure? I thought it was a massively *stroked* 2.8. Has
a much taller deck height (which is supposedly why the 2.8 intake won't
fit).
>-> --2.9L from a Merkur Scorpio if there are any 5-speeds in boneyards
>
> Rotsa ruck. The parts situation for that one is zero; you'd be better
>off staying with your 2.6.
Agreed. I went with the 2.8 just because of parts availability and
stock appearance. Dropped the 2.6 short block at the recycler a few
months ago. Sure made me sad to do it, cause there was nothing wrong
with it, but I didn't have the room to store it forever.
> One of the magazines I was reading the other day claimed the Taurus SHO
>V6 had the same bellhousing pattern as your 2.6. I have my doubts, but
>it would be interesting if true.
Sure would. I'm going to try and track that down one of these days.
-David
Date: Mon, 08 Jul 1996 16:26:00 +0000
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: '72 Capri 2600
To: [email protected]
-> enthusiast. It's a red 1972 2600 with the gauge package, rear
-> armrest, etc. which I think was standard on these cars.
You have a GT, not a base 2600. Very nice car. You should also have a
map light, clock in the console, and rear window defogger.
-> Also has currently nonfunctioning factory air.
It's actually a dealer add-on, and about as simple as you can get and
still refrigerate. Given its age I'd recommend replacing all the rubber
hoses (which weren't great to begin with) and overhauling the
compressor. The seal kit for the compressor used to be under $10.
You can do all the grunt work and have it charged at your friendly AC
shop - unfortunately most of the add-on AC rigs used a lot of R12. You
might want to check out one of the R12 drop-in replacements, or, if you
take the system apart and overhaul the compressor, you could scavenge a
larger condensor from the junkyard, flush the whole thing thoroughly,
and give R-134a a try.
Being a Capri, you have fairly effective flow-through ventilation.
Snow, bugs, sand, whatever, right through the cowl vents and into your
face.
-> original engine is in good shape (although a Holley 2300 would be
Run it. Thunderbird still lists headers and Offy still lists two and
four barrel intakes; most of the cam companies still list cams. The
2600 isn't a powerhouse, but it's amazingly flexible and willing to rev.
I think you'll like it. They also sound pretty darned good... I'd pop
the valve covers and check the situation on the valve seals. Ford made
them out of some type of hard plastic that disintegrates, and usually
there'll be bits stopping up the oil drain holes in the head. Clean it
all out. Plain old 302 umbrella seals will work as replacements. You
can use the rope trick, an air chuck, or whatever, and a lever type
spring compressor to do the seals right on the car if it needs them.
Don't forget to check the valve clearances - it's solid lifter, and
probably has never been checked. Probably okay, but if you have the
valve covers off you should check. It also uses points, which are
probably shot.
-> minor rust in the usual Capri places (rear fenders
Today is your lucky day. I have a brand new rear fender patch panel, I
forget which side. It's yours.
-> Y'all were right, the shifter sucks rocks. I found a 1979 recall
-> about the linkage and a few other things to give the friendly local
-> L-M dealer fits.
The main problem is the lever wears against the pot-metal casting. One
old Capri trick was to file the hole out a little bit and line it with
.040 steel shim stock using JB Weld to hold it in place. The rubber
grommets on the shift rods can be duplicated with nylon if you have
access to a lathe, though I suspect a good electrical supply house might
be able to come up with something close enough for government work.
-> Anyone know a good place to find new bushings and a steering coupling
-> for this beastie? Is Dobi still around?
I bought some stuff from DOBI once, then wound up having to cancel
checks after never getting a response, and getting a disconnect notice
when I phoned. They ran ads for years after that, same address and
phone, but I didn't bother after that.
The rack bushings are dead. It's a Capri thing. Remove the rack and
have a welder attach some 1x1/8" straps to the rack - one will have to
be aluminum, one steel. Drill the proper holes in the straps and bolt
it right to the crossmember. Solves bushing problems forever.
There is a bushing in the passenger side of the rack. If you can grab
the rack gear and wiggle it noticeably in the housing, the rack bushing
is shot. Unfortunately it is no longer available from Ford, but you can
whip one up out of nylon and hold it in place with a short sheet metal
screw.
Rack boots also no longer available. I sewed mine with nylon thread
and covered the seams with silicone. I've heard of people using
motorcycle shock boots and a couple of worm clamps.
The coupler is probably dead (most of the rubber in the Capri was
apparently biodegradable) and is the usual cause of the "gollywobbles"
when braking. I had several spare couplers at one time; if I can find
one I'll send it to you.
Service the brakes *now*. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200. The
Capri master cylinder is $250 and hard to find; the rear wheel cylinders
are unique, aluminum, and $40 each last time I checked. The front
calipers also have a nasty habit of seizing the pistons in the bores.
Disassemble the wheel cylinders, wipe them out with a paper towel,
replace the cup seals if needed. You can buy them in onesies out of
shelf stock at a good parts store or a hydraulic shop, much cheaper than
"kits". Pop the pistons out of the calipers, clean everything up -
you'll be amazed at the crap in there - and reassemble. The master
cylinder comes apart with a bolt and a snap ring. Be very careful.
Then flush thoroughly with your favorite brake fluid. There is only one
bleeder port on the rear axle. Proper adjustment of the parking brake
is mandatory if you want a nice firm pedal.
Date: Sun, 11 May 1997 18:13:49 +0200
From: "toni.riffel"
Subject: [capri-list] Aussie/South African Mk.I`s and Mk.II`s
To: [email protected]
Hi all !
I like to know something about Australian and South African Mk.I`s and
Mk.II`s.
I have no idea how these Capri`s were equipped. On the Techno Classica (
Europes biggest indoor oldtimer event ) i`d bought an australian Mk.I sales
brochure from 1969 and i saw that these particular Capri`s are pretty
different in their view against our german ones.
The GT wears stripes as the Perana V8 Capri, on the tank cap is a "GT" badge
like our "RS" badge. The badge in the steering wheel is red and shows the
british crown ( ? ), ours are black with the Capri motif. Are there more
diffenrences, maybe on later cars ?
Brett Guthrie from NZ sent me a chromed, orange GT badge ( thanx again, Brett
), he says that such badges were also used on earlier australian Capri`s. How
many others were used, and wich ones ( maybe L, XL ) ? He also told me some
about the funny "Superoo" badge.
And, can anyone tell me, how i can get these badges ? ( old parts or
reproduction parts dealers )
If someone collects australian and/or s. african brochures, i like to exchange
scans about them.
Date: Mon, 12 May 1997 07:37:19 -0700
From: Shane Rudkin
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Aussie/South African Mk.I`s and Mk.II`s
To: "toni.riffel"
Toni,
Many of the interesting badge variants were actually decals, thusly
appearing on the later cars 74' on.
By co-incidence I have quite a few 'just cause i collect nething to do
with any classic car' but unfortunatly ive already promised them to a
cousin... :(
In answer to you question about where to find either scans or originals
of them the best co. in Australia is 'Rare Spares' they may even have a
WWW hang on ill check.............................
http://www.pheonixmags.com.au/aftrmark/adverts/rarespar.htm
They can be expensive.. but just ask for a full 'Colour' catalouge
*free* and you should get photos of the badges your after......
> He also told me some about the funny "Superoo" badge.
This is an Australian ford 'performance' badge, it came about on the
GTHO falcon and kinda stuck..... :)
> And, can anyone tell me, how i can get these badges ? ( old parts or
reproduction parts dealers )
See how you go with Rare Spares if ya have ne trouble mail me ill sort
somthin out for ya....
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 1997 09:15:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Euro Capri
To: [email protected]
-> What years were the cars imported into the U.S.?
1970-1974 for the Mk I, 1976-78 for the Mk II. There was no 1975 model
year.
-> What engines were available? I seem to recall a 2.0L four and
-> 2.8L six, but I'm far from certain.
1970 had the 1600cc Kent and 2000cc Pinto engines. 1971 dropped the
Kent and added the 2600 V6. 1972 and 1973 were the same. 1974 had
either the 2000cc Pinto or 2300cc Pinto, depending, and the 2800 V6.
The Mk II had the 2300 or 2800.
Transmissions were the Borg-Warner or Ford C4 automatics or (mostly)
the external-rail German four speed. The 1600 had an oddball British
internal-rail four speed.
-> How was the handling? I'd ridden in a few years ago, but never had
-> the chance to drive one. Anyone autocrossed/road-raced
-> one of these? Any fun?
Stock handling is horrible, with lots of body roll, massive understeer,
and usually about half a turn of slack in the steering. However, the
deficiencies are easily and cheaply corrected. My Mk I - now my wife's,
I guess - was originally a Solo II S/P car. It is a slot car.
-> What would be the most desirable version of the car? And what
-> would be a reasonable price today for one in good condition
-> here in California?
IMHO the most desirable would be the 1973 V6 model. Almost all 1973
V6s were "GT" versions with all the options. Next most desirable would
be a 1972 GT, then any 1971-1973 2000.
For some reason a great many of the 1974 models appear to have survived
and are popular, but they are considerably heavier due to the Federal
impact bumpers, carry some nasty first-gen smog equipment, and are
almost always strippers with no options.
Typical Capri problems:
1) slack in steering - biodegradable rubber bushings melt
2) rust in rear wheel arches - nonstructural, patch panels still
available
3) sloppy shifter - shift gate was cheap zinc casting, wears horribly.
Epoxy and some steel strips will make it better than new for cheap.
4) pop-out quarter windows fall out - Ford used a water-soluble glue
to attach the latch; replacements used a through bolt. Available
from several sources
5) brakes seized - uses Teves fixed calipers, pistons don't move much,
tend to stick in bores. Easily rebuilt; parts common to some Audi
and VW models
6) sunroof leaks - (if installed) - factory Ford roof has no rubber
seals. It has a trough and plastic drain hoses. This system works
outstandingly well until the hoses get stopped up with dirt, then
you get a free shower when it rains. Solution: remove dirt with
special Capri sunroof tool. (coat hanger)
Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 18:32:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Exceter and the leaves collecting around my car
To: [email protected], [email protected]
<< A friend 'in the trade' offered to get me some bits trade price. These
bits would infact be more expensive than from the club, and more to the
point - I still haven't received them! Whilst I waited months for various
lax individuals the wheel bearings gave out leaving me car-less. >>
Are they front or rear wheel bearings? If they are front, I would be suprised
that no local motor factors have them in stock, even Halfords do them where I
live. You have the advantage with the Capri that unless you have a 1300 or 3
litre, the wheelbearings are the same as Mk3/4/5 Cortinas. I had to get some
for a kit car I'm building that use Cortina front uprights, and I offered the
bearing up to an old Capri one I had, they were the same. Probably the same
on Mk2 Escorts.
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 06:57:20 +0000 (UT)
From: Barry McKinzey
Subject: [capri-list] 77 Brake booster
To: Capri list
David Maughn just wrote me back after I asked him for more details on what
EUROFORD P & S does than the Chicago Club's Suppliers page has written. He
informs me he has 62 NOS master cylinders for the Capri @ $150.00 each plus
shipping. He also says that he is thinking of putting together a Mk II to Mk
III conversion kit, if there is interest, and has access to lots of European
Ford stuff.
Date: Sun, 03 Aug 1997 21:22:45 +0800
From: chris behr
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Just rejoined the fun, need front end bushings
To: Steve Evans
>First question: Where to obtain front end bushings (all of them) to
>replace the worn stock rubber. I remember reading a few posts on the topic
>but don't remember seeing a source.
If you are down under in OZ then Repco keep the full set. Mine cost about
$50 for the lot.
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 1997 23:17:44 -0500
From: "Barry G. McKinzey"
Subject: [capri-list] Body Kit
To: Tom Pultz
Tom,
Norm sent me a flyer the other day with the news that (among other things)
he is now the official supplier of Fibersports Kits out of the UK. "For
those unfamiliar, Fibersports was the Ford racing and Zakspeed official
supplier of body panels during the heyday of Ford's factory Capri racing
teams. We have Cosworth wings, Zakspeed X-Packs, XX-Packs, Cartel kits
Cologne box flare kits, RS3100 spoilers, RS 3100 hoods, headlamp covers,
decklids, hatches, NACA ducts, air dams. Please contact us for specific
wants."
I am not representing Norm in any way, just telling you what he has. There
are those in one of the clubs who have certain feelings about Norm but he
has the stuff. He sort of has the market cornered. Sort of.
He also has reproduction sheet metal, driveshafts, yadda, yadda, yadda.
BTW what is the URL of your son's web page so I can see the soon to be
scanned photos of your engine compartment.
Date: Thu, 14 Aug 1997 13:30:23 -0400
From: Mark Wilson
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Body Kit
To: [email protected]
>Does anyone have photos that they can post or send of the body kits for
>the MKI Capri???
I wrote Fibersports a letter a few years ago, asking for a brochure and
either a photo of a Mk I Capri with their flares, etc, or a sketch of
what the flares would look like. I got a brochure, but they could not
provide a photo or sketch. If I recall correctly, the flares they sell
for the Mk I Capri look like the early (1972) factory racecar flare,
not the boxier later (1973-1974) style of flare.
I think an old issue of the Capri Car Club, Ltd. (Denver, Colorado)
had an article and photos about three Denver-area club members who
had purchased these Mk I flare kits, and even had a photo of a set
of flares taped in place, since at that time, none of the three had
installed the pieces. You might want to check with Dave Butler or
Steve Singletary. I think I spoke with one of them just after that
article/photos came out.
Mark Wilson
Ijamsville, Maryland
[email protected] (work)
[email protected] (play)
p.s. - Four of my six Mk I Capris have some form of fender flare;
one has complete glass front fenders, glass hood, etc. I also have
three sets of molds for Mk I Capri fenders and hood. I'm working
on securing the mold for a neat air dam (to replace the smashed
one on my former and future (?) SCCA GT3 Capri 2000). I've yet
to get photos online so you can see what they all look like, but
two are on Bev Connell's (Chicago Capri Club's) website. If you'd
like details, feel free to e-mail me at home - the "play" address -
or call me at home at (301) 831-3440. My home fax is (301) 831-9685.
I'm usually conscious till midnight east coast time.
Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 16:07:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] 302 Swap?
To: [email protected]
-> I'm debating on whether or not to drop a 302 into my 72 Capri.
-> Does anyone have any info on this process..i.e. what kind of custom
-> bracket fabrication is required, etc..
Perhaps we need a FAQ.
A Ford V8 into a Capri is very simple. You need a late model Mustang
pan, a modified driveshaft, a few simple adapters to the motor mounts
(though lopping the mounts off the crossmember and replacing them
entirely gives a cleaner job), you need to snip away the excess metal of
the radiator shroud so you ran relocate the radiator further forward,
and it helps to have the 4 cylinder brake booster as it gives more valve
cover clearance. A '65-'68 Mustang or '68-'75 Maverick radiator will
work. The stock transmission crossmember can be used if you drill new
holes.
If you want to change the rear end at the same time, the Mustang II was
available with an 8" posi of the correct width and wheel bolt pattern.
All the bracketry will have to be moved from the old rearend to the new
one, but it's nothing major to someone with a torch.
The 302 is narrower and not as tall as the V6, though the timing cover
and water pump make it longer. It's not enough heavier than the V6 to
affect handling to any great degree.
I've done:
'72 - 302/C4
'73 - 283 Chevy/Saginaw 4 speed/Monza 2.29 posi
'73 - 302/Toploader
'72 - 351 Cleveland/Toploader
'71 - Chevy inline six/T400/'63 Nova rear
'72 - 455 Olds/T400 (never made it to the street, though)
Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 08:52:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 5sp Trannys for 2 Liter?
To: [email protected]
-> that a newer 5 speed will work. I'd suggest investigating the 5
-> speeds that were used on 2.3 liter ("Lima" SOHC) "Fox" Capris and
-> Mustangs
That's basically what I've done to my 2000. I'm using the Rocket four
speed from a 2.3 Mustang. You need to fab up some stepped bellhousing
locating dowels, a stepped adapter ring for the driveshaft flange, and
redrill the flange to the Fox bolt pattern. Then you swap in the whole
shebang - flywheel, bellhousing, clutch arm, starter, shifter,
transmission, and driveshaft. You'll have to have the driveshaft
shortened and rebalanced. In return you get an ordinary Ford starter
replaceable anywhere, an internal rail shifter that's much more positive
than the rubber bushed monster, plain old $7 Ford U-joints at each end,
and you lose a substantial mount of weight with the aluminum bellhousing
and tailshaft. The shifter even comes out in the right spot and the
Capri clutch cable fits the new bellhousing. Downside is, first gear is
quite a bit taller than stock, something like 3.35 instead of 3.65, and
the gears are spaced closer. The stock wide-ratio box is ideal for the
Capris and it's a bit doggy with the tall first.
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 07:48:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mark Cummings
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 5sp Trannys for 2 Liter?
To: [email protected]
>In the UK (and NZ) the deal is to bolt up a 5-speed from the Sierra
>(Merker?) bellhousing and all.
>
In the UK, after 1985 a 5-speed manual was fitted as standard to all
capris. These should be readily available from most Capri suppliers
or from breakers, Sierra ones are basically the same, but beware of the
ratios....
If your car is a pre 1984, you will need to fabricate (or buy) a new
centre mounting bracket, CCI do one (for all their faults) which is
not bad at all, I bought one and am very happy with it, it was a lot
less hassle than trying to fabricate one, although the bellhousing is
the same, the box is longer and taller, hence the mounting is 2" further
back and 1/2" lower than the 4-spd
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 17:29:47 +0100
From: Christian John Sumner
Subject: [capri-list] Brakes etc.
To: [email protected]
Lee said that CCI stock almot anything you could want.... not true. Do people
ever replace their rear wheel cylinders? I'm doing it now. The bores are quite
worn. Ford don't stock the parts anymore - but Partco. do - off the shelf from
my local store. I'm hoping this will further improve my braking, already greatly
augmented by the 4-pot calipers - yes they do work. My car now nose dives like a
bastard and I can have great fun trying to keep the front end straight even at
80mph. I may well also overhaul the master cylinder.
We all winge about brakes - but do we ever do anything except bleed them and
replace the pads? It's a thought. After 150,000 miles I reckon mine deserve
a bit more attention.
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 1997 19:02:49 -0500
From: David Schwarze
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Outer TCA Bush
To: Mark Cummings , [email protected]
>If I have undestood you rightly, you are trying to sqeeze the bushes
>where the roll bar goes through the TCA into place whole..!!! this will
>not work.
>the only way to fit them easily is to cut them in half with a stanley
>knife so that you end up with two rings.
I don't think this is correct. If you're talking about the stock rubber
bushings, they *will* go in, and without any fancy equipment. I didn't
think it could be done so I took my lower control arms and new bushings
into an alignment shop to have them pressed in. The guy says "ah, you
don't need a press, they will go in!" and procedes to grease the bushings
up real well and cram them in with his bare hands. He started with the
bushing at approximately a 45 degree angle, then just kept pushing in and
twisting, and sure enough it slowly went in.
Rubber is amazing stuff - it will stretch and compress more than you think.
I was a believer after watching that guy install my bushings for me.
Although I think it probably doesn't hurt anything to cut the bushing in
half, it's not necessary.
Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 11:13:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] sway bar @ shocks
To: [email protected]
-> I need a 3/4" or 7/8" rear sway bar. At the time DOBI wasn't able to
I have the Addco 5/8" bar. It's not very good. The chassis mounting
bracketry pulled right through the sheet metal "frame rails". I had to
have big angle iron chunks welded into the kicked-up section to hold the
bushings. Drilled and tapped the angle iron and used poly bushings.
The sheet metal end link thingies disintegrated shortly after, so I
whittled hardware out of 6061-T6 bar stock and used 3/8" rod ends
instead of rubber or poly. The end links run at an acute angle, which
is what destroyed the original ones.
I can barely tell when the bar is hooked up. It makes no real
measurable difference in my lap times. It's a waste of time compared to
my 1-1/8" TMC front bar.
-> supply one. Also, I am looking for a good set of stiff shocks. I
-> called KONI and they don't make them anymore but they will rebuild
KYB Gas-A-Just. I have several sets. The set on my '72 was purchased
in 1978 and has seen regular street and race work since then. 19 years
and still so hard you can't even push the back of the car down, much
less bounce it. I have a feeling they're actually valved for a much
heavier car and just happened to fit the Capri.
Up front I had a set of Konis. They were very expensive in 1985,
lasted about two weeks before puking oil (car not lowered, had factory
bump stops). Koni would not honor their warranty. I had bought them
from a place that apparently wasn't an "approved Koni distributor" and
as far as they were concerned I could go to hell. No satisfaction from
the dealer either. I ate about $250 on those. From conversations with
other people running Konis they have since changed their policies, but
they screwed me once, they can go to hell forever as far as I'm
concerned. Caveat emptor, and all that.
I went to KYBs up front, but they don't make the Gas-A-Just for the
front, so these are just their regular replacement inserts. They're not
as stiff as I'd like but they're still going strong.
-> Any help would be most appreciated.
Build a Panhard rod or Watts link for the back. Of all the mods I've
done to my Capris, the 1-1/8" TMC front bar made the biggest change, the
Panhard the next biggest. Stiffer front springs was third.
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 10:57:12 -0500 (est)
From: Andrew Kelman
Subject: [capri-list] diving under brakes
To: [email protected]
Someone mentioned their capri diving under brakes (sorry, lost the
original).
I,ve tried to solve these problems on my escort which has a similar
suspension layout, in a shorter car, ad expect to be able to use the
same technique on my capri project.
What I did was:
Install a 1" thick piece of rectangular section of steel (or
aluminium) between the swaybar brackets, and the mounts on the chassis
rail, this lowers the swaybars pivot point at the front, reducing
dive.
Also affix to the centre of this a third swaybar mount. This third
mount stops the swaybar bending under braking forces, throwing out the
alignment as you brake, decreasing grip.
Naturally, I can,t say what the implications will be for safety or
wear, or legality, so its up to the modifier to take responsibility.
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 20:24:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] diving under brakes
To: [email protected]
-> Install a 1" thick piece of rectangular section of steel (or
-> aluminium) between the swaybar brackets, and the mounts on the
-> chassis rail, this lowers the swaybars pivot point at the front,
-> reducing dive.
I've done this. It works fine, though I did notice an increase in
roughness on the highway. Lousy local roads.
-> Also affix to the centre of this a third swaybar mount. This third
-> mount stops the swaybar bending under braking forces, throwing out
-> the alignment as you brake, decreasing grip.
I didn't do that, but after noticing shiny spots 2" to each side of the
bushing I realized the bar was moving left-to-right. I fabricated some
aluminum clamps to lock on each side of the bushing. Industrial supply
places - Grainger and McMaster-Carr in the USA - carry "split collars"
for shafting that work just as well.
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 09:23:19 +0100
From: Rich Mauruschat
Subject: Re: Injector bosses & stuff
To: Dave Williams
> I have a pair of sidedraft Dell'Ortos and a manifold I got for my 2000
>Capri, but the LHD brake booster setup won't clear. Turns out most
Dave,
Thanks for the info! - looks like I've been out of order blaming you guys
for my weight problems all along!
Can you use a remote in-line brake servo (booster) and do away with the
bulkhead mounter? get a whole lot better pedal that way too. I agree with
you it's a bit of a dogs breakfast (is this a UK metaphor?) mounting air
cleaners so close to carbs, I always consider 40mm gap to be minimum; no
cleaner at all must be worse.
Are you able to get the old Gp1 Weber 44IDF twin downdraught carb setup over
there? not quite as good as sidedraughts ultimately but probably developed
originally to avoid your problem in LHD in Europe. They are very rare here now.
We obviously get your problem with exhaust headers!
I'd be interested in your +400cc crank, where is this from? Presumably
different rods are reqired also. Only thing like this I'm aware of is a
special steel item from Holbay in the UK - MAJOR BUCKS!!
Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 07:32:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: malcolm kleinman
Subject: 5 litre
To: [email protected]
Dave,
Found your tips on a 5 litre conversion for a Capri. I have
carried out such a conversion myself and went to some trouble to enable
the vehicle to be street licenced and legal (some feat here in Perth,
Western Australia.). All up she weighs 1120kg and with a slightly
tricked 302 coupled to a Supra 5-speed gearbox, goes quite well. What I
would like to ask you is there a specially made set of off-the-shelf
headers available to suit such a conversion over there in the good 'ol
US of A. Over here you wouldn't believe the cost of fabricating a
one-off set ($800-900). Seeing the Capri Club of Chicago site was quite
a a thrill. I'm hoping that you people are keen enough to help a fellow
enthusiast. I intend to use a well set up pair of J302 heads on a 302
to begin with, perhaps moving over to a 351 I have in the garage which I
originally intended running in a replica '66 AC cobra. Any information
you could pass on would be greatly appreciated
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 11:38:17 +1300
From: Simon Quested
Subject: [capri-list] Easy Brake upgrade
To: Capri Mailling List
> Gustaf wrote:
> >2. The front discs seems quite warped...it feels like heavy braking on an
> >ABS equipped car... I'm thinking about adopting Volvo 240 brakes, which
> >discs should I use? Sierra, Capri 2.8i, Volvo discs...ideas?
A friend of mine bolted a set of Auston princess 4 pot calipers on to the
front with 2 minor mods
1) the backing plate needs about 5 mm removed from the bottom as the calipers
is a bit bigger
2) the calipers has 2 fluid lines going to it. John got a t made up that
attached to the strut where the stock block goes, 1 in 2 out....
All this fitted under 13 inch mags .... just
All up this cost NZ$100 (US$65) and was a big improvement, even using the std
disks.
Everyone I have talked to says that you need spacer's but knowone can tell me
what for ..... My guess is that it's for putting thicker disks on, as the
spacer goes in the middle of the calipers like the aussie RS2000 upgrade kit
for escorts?
> Warped discs seem to be a standard Capri accessory.
Hay ! I've got them as well ;-)
> You have 15" rims which really opens up what you can fit. The hard part is
> finding such a shallow disc (35 mm) with a small centre. I'd borrow a book
> off of a brake store for new discs and compare measurements (done this for
> small discs).
I've seen modified Jag disks 1 inch thick ........The local speed shop uses a
jap calipers and a modified nissan patrol vented disk but you have to run 15
inch rims for it to all fit under
> Comments?
If some one finds a bolt on replacement disk pls let us know !!!
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 1997 21:25:46 +1300
From: Yeti
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Pinto is back
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Hi all just a note on these calipers,
>Gustaf wrote:
>>2. The front discs seems quite warped...it feels like heavy braking on an
>>ABS equipped car... I'm thinking about adopting Volvo 240 brakes, which
>>discs should I use? Sierra, Capri 2.8i, Volvo discs...ideas?
>
>Warped discs seem to be a standard Capri accessory.
>When I looked at the Haynes book on Volvos (240) the calipers looked pretty
>much like Capri ones (ATE). Is there another model that is used? Is there
>really any advantage?
>
>The Volvo discs seem wildly different in the spec sheets for new ones.The
>closest in specification are Peugeot 205.....
>I have never actually found anyone who has done this disc/caliper
>conversion and can tell what is involved.
An Austin Princess (not sure what they are called overseas) caliper is the
same bolt pattern as the type 16 ford caliper the advantage is they are 4
pot calipers.
and they are relatively easy to put spacers in them for the vented 2.8i
disc.
>Probably moving up to 2.8I discs and calipers (or speced calipers) would be
>easiest. However, the US guys have argued that the unvented ones work fine.
>
>You have 15" rims which really opens up what you can fit. The hard part is
>finding such a shallow disc (35 mm) with a small centre. I'd borrow a book
>off of a brake store for new discs and compare measurements (done this for
>small discs).
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 15:29:29 +0100
From: Francesc Ferrando
Subject: [capri-list] LSD
To: [email protected]
I've heard Capri sized Torsens were also used in Transit vans and Ford
ambulances in Europe, so
you might even find one in a junkyard (breaker's). I don't know if these
were available "down under". BTW the ambulance diff has a *VERY* high
torque bias ratio, perhaps too high if the car is used primarily for
racing. It is possible to alter the bias ratio, but you must essentially
rebuild the diff to do it.
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 23:11:02 -0400
From: [email protected] (Joseph P Bennardo)
Subject: [capri-list] Rear end rebuild
To: [email protected]
I'm a bit confused. I am having a guy set up my rear for $175 plus
parts. This may be a bit high, but he comes highly recommended. Anyway,
now to the parts list. He gave me a list of parts to purchase. The list
follows (along with the best prices I found US dollars):
2-16150 (Bearing for Diff) $18.59 ea.
2-16283 (race for diff) $22.84 ea.
1-HM88542 (pinion front) $16.33 ea
1-HM88510 (pinion front) 8.44 ea
1-89149 (pinion rear) $17.30 ea.
1-89410 (pinion rear) $8.88 ea.
1-2642 (pinion seal) 10.00 ea.
2-RW110R (axle bearings) 45.00 ea.
First question. Does this guy have everything or is he missing any seals
or bearing? Question two. Norm murdoc (Team Blitz) has a rear axle shaft
bearing kit for sale (@ $86 US a shaft). What bearings does this include.
If I'm right his kit is just the 2-RW110R. If so why the big price
difference? Any help would be appreciated
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 1997 07:02:30 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] capriparts
To: [email protected]
This is just a quick introduction to the company Webber Classic Racing. We
specialise in fibreglass/carbon fibre race car panels and preparation. Our
main area is Ford Capris, we have a large selection of panels, spoilers, body
kits etc, we can also modify and race prepare capris as well as other race
cars like Formula Fords etc. I can also source many mechanical, interior
part....
If anyone is interested in what we do e-mail me for more details or check out
my web site Http://members.aol.com/mdinsdale/wcr/main.htm
cheers
Mark Webber (mk3 V8,'86 laser, '83 LS)
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 19:37:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected] (Mark Wilson)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Easy Brake upgrade
To: [email protected]
>A friend of mine bolted a set of Auston princess 4 pot calipers on to
>the front with 2 minor mods
>1) the backing plate needs about 5 mm removed from the bottom as the
>calipers is a bit bigger
>2) the calipers has 2 fluid lines going to it. John got a t made up
>that attached to the strut where the stock block goes, 1 in 2 out....
>
>All this fitted under 13 inch mags .... just
>
>All up this cost NZ$100 (US$65) and was a big improvement, even using
>the std disks.
The Austin 4-piston calipers are probably better than the 2-piston
Capri calipers, but, if it matters, are probably heavier on the already
nose-heavy car. If the Austin calipers work better than the Capri
calipers, and the Capri calipers put enough heat into the thin Capri
discs, then the Austin calipers can do the same easier and quicker,
right? Just tossing theory around, since I've not used the Austin
calipers, but . . .
>Everyone I have talked to says that you need spacer's but knowone can
>tell me what for ..... My guess is that it's for putting thicker disks
on, as
>the spacer goes in the middle of the calipers like the aussie RS2000
>upgrade kit for escorts?
That makes sense. I've seen U.K.-based shops offering a spacer kit
for the Austin calipers, so it appears you can run the stock Austin
calipers over the original Capri discs, or the split Austin calipers over
vented Capri discs.
There are also a number of folks in the U.K. who sell vented front discs and a
spacer kit that splits the original Capri calipers to fit around the thicker
vented disc. I'd recommend this approach, especially if the primary goal is
to reduce the chance that the disc will warp. The thicker vented disc will
stand up to use and abuse better than the original solid disc. The Capri
caliper is up to the job (tho probably not as good as a 4-piston caliper).
Whichever way someone goes, I'd make sure the brakes are getting air ducted to
them. Calipers like cool air, or so I'm told. Oh, this is also a bolt-on
operation - no grinding, no welding, no fuss or muss, except for splitting the
Capri calipers and fitting the spacer kit. Heck, if I can do it and trust my
work and the car to go from 115mph down to 40mph at the end of the front
straight at Summit Point, West Virginia, you can probably do it, too.
>> You have 15" rims which really opens up what you can fit. The hard
part is
>> finding such a shallow disc (35 mm) with a small centre. I'd borrow a
book
>> off of a brake store for new discs and compare measurements (done
>>this for small discs).
I must confess something. In a moment of insanity or brain fade I ordered the
"mother of all Capri brake kits" - 12.25" (310mm) Wilwood vented discs, 4-
piston Wilwood calipers, custom-made adapters to fit the discs to the Capri
hubs, and custom-made brackets to fit the calipers to the Capri struts. This
is a kit offered in the U.K., so the shipping to the U.S. was something to
behold. And, if you consider that the U.K. distributor paid shipping to get
the U.S.-made Wilwood parts sent to the U.K., and I paid to get them back
here, it might be said that my elevator doesn't go to the top floor. But,
I've wanted this kit for a while, haven't been able to wrestle just the custom
pieces from the grip of the U.K. distributor, and really wanted big brakes on
the front of my next road racing Capri. I have an SVO Mustang rear end under
the car, complete with 11.75" vented discs on the rear. And, of course, the
day after I mailed the fateful letter to the U.K., the Capri-list (Dave
Williams, in particular) mentioned a shop here in the States that will make
any bell or hat and any bracket to fit discs and calipers to whatever is out
there. Well, now I have the very attractive annodized custom pieces that I
might mail to said shop that will fit anything to anything, and see what they
say. Hell, I'll even offer the Wilwood part numbers for the discs and
calipers if someone wants to purchase the custom pieces and make up their own
kits. Disclaimer #1 - I'll make sure this does not violate any license the
distributor may own, and #2 - this mess needs 15" wheels in which to operate.
Wish me luck. The kit arrived yesterday; I'm still wiping up the drool spots.
I realize that's going from one extreme (fitting stuff within 13" wheels)
to another (way overpriced "Wilwood" kit with way too much shipping
involved), but hey, it's my money and not yours, right? Plus, I get to
install the stuff, take it racing, and when I'm not wrecking my beloved,
I can pass along the results of whether the Capri stopped or not, or
slowed to an acceptable speed or not.
I hope this helps and doesn't just add to the confusion.
Mark (we don't need no steenking brakes) Wilson
Ijamsville, Maryland, USA
Date: Wed, 08 Oct 1997 10:18:20 +0000
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Plans to change CCI location kit to Watts link
To: [email protected]
after spending 70 uk pounds on the CCI's rear axel location kit I am
rather reluctant to sell it for a loss or to leave it in the garage!
After speaking to Steve & Rockette and one or two others on the list I have
decided to immitate as best as possible a Watts type link fro the CCI's
fixed link.
I would like to hear what any of you think of the following method
that I have come up with...
At the minute the bar which braces the axel to the leaf spring is, as
we all know, static which is what I now beleive caused my spring to
snap. What I plan for the modication is to put in a longer (and stronger)
bolt in the slot which currently monts the bar so that the bar can go up
and down. To reduce the stress on the new long bolt I am proposing the
use of a heavy duty U-bolt with a welded on bracke so that the bar cannot
travel too far.
I know this is only crude but it will, I hope, drastically reduce the
tendancy for the springs to snap as the only bracing effect will be in
the horizontal plane and not the vertical.
Please let me know what you think (insults also welcome Gavin!),
Date: Thu, 09 Oct 1997 11:10:44 -0400
From: Joseph Piernock
Subject: [capri-list] Capri Brake Upgrade
To: [email protected]
I remember a "Car and Driver" article from the mid-70's about a German firm
that was putting Ford V-8's into Capri Mk II's. They used Peugeot 205
disks and rotors in front and a Mustang II differential with its associated
drums in the rear. C&D claimed that the upgrade worked very well. I have
that article buried somwhere if anyone is interested.
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 1997 06:27:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] replicacapri
To: [email protected]
I just thought i'd let you all know about my new project/company
demonstrator.
Within the next day or so i will be moulding up a complete composite body
shell of a mk3 capri. The idea is to make a lightweight but strong capri
bodyshell that will not rust. Whether or not it will be a road or race car i
am not sure yet, maybe both. The chassis will possibly be a round tube
spaceframe with F3000 style suspension. I will make the chassis to take a
variety of engines including the original capri engines.
I hope to leave the car looking as stantard as possible from the outside and
as roadworthy as possible. I have had alot of reaction from people at shows
about this idea, all good as well. One bloke even offered to buy the first
one I make.
Any comments,questions or suggestions will be appreciated.
Mark. webber classic racing
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 1997 06:14:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Mk I Capri 5.0 V8 Conversion
To: [email protected]
-> In my opinion the front brake upgrade is essential. They will have to
-> cope with stopping a faster car with more nose weight. The front
-> suspension should also be stiffened up a bit to cope with the extra
-> weight.
Ride height won't even change. The weight difference between a 5.0 and
the 2.6 is negligible. I've done more than one of those swaps.
-> (BTW I suggest a Watts linkage rather than a Panhard rod if your
-> budget permits). Your existing wheels and tires should be OK for now.
The problem with the Watts is it's very difficult to get the roll
center down without dragging the links on the ground. My Panhard runs
just underneath the pumpkin, as low as I felt I could get away with.
Lowering the rear roll center lets you plant much more power on the
ground coming out of corners and makes the car wondrously predictable.
Total lateral movement with the Panhard is on the order of 1/4 inch; not
enough to notice even with my rock-hard Solo suspension setup.
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 20:32:24 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: Dennis McGuire
> I'm new to this list and am looking for recommendations to improve
> the performance of a 1973 Capri 2.0 l that I use for autocross and time
> trials. ...
Questions:
Are you located in the USA? If so, what autocross class are you running in?
From the mods you have made so far, it sounds like you must be running
something like DSP or EP.
Assuming you are running in one of those classes, here is what I'd do:
If the springs give you the stock ride height, lower them.
Replace the struts/shocks with either Koni or Bilstein sport struts/shocks.
They're hard to find these days, unfortunately. In the USA Team Blitz still
has Bilsteins, while Mark Wilson can get Konis. You can find their
addresses/phone numbers on the Capri Club of Chicago site
(http://www.niagara.com/~bevc/ccc.htm) under "Suppliers".
Change the steering rack bushings, antiroll bar bushings, and track control
arm bushings to hard plastic.
Change the rubber coupler in the steering to plastic. CAUTION: This puts
more stress on the U-joint in the steering, so it will wear more quickly.
Change the front and rear antiroll bars to stiffer ones. If you don't plan
to drive the car on the street, try stiffening the rear bar first. DO NOT
DO THIS ON A CAR YOU WILL DRIVE ON THE STREET! It can give you a *VERY*
nasty oversteer!
Add either a Watts linkage or a Panhard rod to locate the rear axle.
Panhard rods are simple, but they only work well if the rear suspension
doesn't have much travel. On a low autocross car with a stiff supension
they are often OK.
Move the battery to the trunk. HINT: Use a separate run of *VERY* heavy
gauge wire for the starter circuit; take it directly to the into starter
relay.
If you're running DSP, lose the locked rear end. It's not legal anyway. Get
another LSD. Unfortunately this is not cheap. Torsens are generally the
best, but on an autocross car the suspension has to be just right to make
it work. If you find you can lift a rear wheel during hard cornering, the
Torsen won't work. Also, use a Torsen with a low bias ratio, no more than
about 8:1 and preferrably lower. Talk to Norm at Team Blitz, he is using a
Torsen in an autocross car so he knows how to make it work.
If you can track down a set of 3.89:1 gears for the rear end, use them.
Unfortunately they are pretty rare in the USA these days. Our friends in
Europe had a much wider selection of rear end ratios, so someone over there
may be able to provide something useful.
If you can track down an early 1971 Capri 2000 transmission (also very
rare), use it. The early ones had a slightly taller 1st gear (about 3.5:1
instead of 3.65:1). I'm not sure when they changed, but I'm pretty sure my
1971 Capri (produced July '71) has the shorter 1st gear.
If you're running EP, the maximum legal wheel size is 14" x 7". If you're
running DSP, wheels are unrestricted (don't ask me...). I'm told that 85-86
Mustang 15 x 7 wheels will fit the Capri, but later ones won't.
AFTER you have gone through the suspension, have a go at the engine. You
can legally do a lot more in both DSP and EP.
The first thing to do: Get a copy of David Vizard's 1985 classic "How to
Modify Ford S.O.H.C. Engines" (ISBN 0 86343 0856). It's a bit dated (the
suppliers list is way out) but still essential. In DSP you are pretty much
restricted to carburetor and exhaust changes. In EP you can play with cams
and head work.
As for ignition advance, my experience with the 2000 suggests that it wants
all the advance it can get. You will probably be limited by the octane
rating of your gasoline. I usually run 10 degrees BTDC, but I run in stock
class so I can't go beyond that legally. Try this: Get a vacuum gauge. With
the vacuum advance disconnected and the port blocked, advance the timing
until the vacuum at idle stops increasing. Note that you will probably have
to back off the idle speed screw to keep the idle RPM constant. Check the
timing with a timing light. Back off about 4 degrees (the amount the vacuum
advance advances), and reconnect the vacuum advance. This should give you
plenty of low RPM torque, but it will probably find that the engine pings
horribly under acceleration. In this case use the old hot rodder's adage:
Turn it up 'till it talks to you, then back off a little. Translation:
Advance the timing until it pings, then retard it a bit.
If you're running DSP you will have to set the cam advance to within
factory specs. The good thing is, the production tolerance is something
like +/- 8 degrees, so you have a little room to fiddle with it. A Racer
Walsh adjustable cam sprocket is a big help here.
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 1997 19:55:41 -0500
From: "Craig A. Blome"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: Dennis McGuire , [email protected]
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis McGuire
To: [email protected]
Date: Sunday, October 19, 1997 2:37 PM
Subject: [capri-list] New list member
> I'm new to this list and am looking for recommendations to improve
>the performance of a 1973 Capri 2.0 l that I use for autocross and time
>trials. The engine has headers and electronic ignition trigger, but is
>otherwise stock. It has road race springs but the struts and dampers are
>still stock.
First thing to fix. Stock dampers aren't up to the job of stiff springs.
The fronts could be rebuilt with higher viscosity synthetic shock oil, or
allegedly some Porsche 911 cartridges will fit...
> The rear end is locked. I've been running 7.0 x 13 slicks
>because that's all I could fit in the wheel wells with the 13 x 5.5" alloy
>rims that I have. I'm going to 14 x 6's for next year and will be cutting
>the rear wheel wells out.
>
Why go to 14's? 13" wheels with low profile tires will keep weight transfer
down. And the bolt pattern is the same as Pintos, so steel 13x7 and 13x8
race wheels are readily available.
> I'd appreciate any suggestions to improve performance. I do this
>for fun, so I'm also looking for the most bang for the buck. Any
>suggestions on ignition and camshaft timing would be helpful also.
>
A Panhard rod will greatly improve handling as per recent discussion (I
think I have a compendium of Dave Williams wisdom tucked away somewhere).
Longer shackles and rearched springs will alleviate roll understeer in the
rear. Finally, make sure all the bushings in the front end are fresh. Mine
has a scary habit of changing lanes under hard braking, which is probably
the fault of worn sway-bar-to-control-arm bushings (some silly bugger at
Ford Europe thought the bar could take the place of a strut rod). Of
course, the rack bushings are shot and I haven't had that fixed yet. (Can a
Pinto rack adapt to this car, while we're on that topic?)
I don't know where you are, but there are several Capri V6's tearing up DSP
in the SCCA's San Francisco region. You might try asking their mailing list
for opinions.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 19:25:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Mk I Capri 5.0 V8 Conversion
To: [email protected]
-> > ... The weight difference between a 5.0 and
-> > the 2.6 is negligible. I've done more than one of those swaps.
> This surprises me, but since Dave has done it and I have not...
It's true. The 2.6 is a physically large casting, thick wall (it's an
older design engine than the 5.0, dating back to the late 1950s when it
was a V4 for the Ford Cardinal).
-> My understanding is that Panhard rods work fine in situations like
-> this where the suspension is very stiff, but a softer road suspension
-> may have enough travel to cause problems. BTW the works racing
-> RS2600s used a Watts linkage, so there must be a way to keep the
-> links off the ground.
My '60 Chevy was about as soft as you can get, and it had a factory
Panhard. Short, too. Old full-size Fords also used a Panhard. The
"long travel has problems" idea is spread by some of the suspension
books, but in my experience it's a non-problem.
The work Capris with the Watts had the pivot point very high, at or
only slightly below the theoretical center for the stock live axle.
Even without changing the roll center height the Watts will help by
keeping the axle positioned. It doesn't sound like a whole lot, but the
difference in transient response with and without a lateral locating
link is impressive - on the order of going from stock to large
aftermarket anti-roll bars.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 17:32:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 2.0 DOHC 16v EFI engine
To: [email protected]
-> One word of caution: On the 4 cyl. OHC 1971-77 "Federal" Capris, dual
-> carb installations have been known to bump into the power brake
-> booster. It's not an insurmountable problem, but it's best to know up
-> front.
I have a pair of Dell'Orto side drafts and a short manifold. The inlet
of the #4 barrel is a finger's width from the brake booster. The carb
fits and will work, but you aren't going to run an air cleaner on it.
Supposedly there is a smaller diameter booster that can be swapped in,
from some Lotus application. Unfortunately the local junkyards don't
seem to have many Loti available...
I played around with various ideas before I gave up. One of the remote
brake booster setups from an older British car or one of the street rod
shops would have worked, but I raced SCCA Solo at the time and Denver
said that would be an illegal mod when I checked. The other option was
to rework the motor mounts to move the engine over to the right a bit.
Also illegal for SCCA, but that's how I would do it now if I were to put
the carbs on now.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 20:24:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] New list member
To: [email protected]
-> I'm new to this list and am looking for recommendations to improve
-> the performance of a 1973 Capri 2.0 l that I use for autocross and
-> time trials
If you're not restricted by class rules, the biggest bang for the buck
for the 2.0 is in carburetion. Racer Walsh used to have an adapter kit
to mount a 350 Holley on the stock intake.
Next biggest bang would be a cam, but you have to pull the head and you
should really replace the rockers when you do a cam, and you'll need new
springs, and probably a valve job... a cam will help quite a bit, but
not as much as the carb and it'll cost more.
Run a cable or chain from the empty bolt hole by the water neck to the
inside driver's side fenderwell. There's nothing much to attach to, but
you can put a piece of hardware store 1/4" x 1" steel strip on the tire
side of the fenderwell and use a threaded eye hook to anchor the chain.
Use a big turnbuckle to adjust the length. It will pick up a small
amount of noise and vibration from the motor (unless you use a cable,
which some hardware stores can make to length - 3/16" will do - and
leave a very small amount of slack). The Capri engines - all of them -
are mounted on large, soft bushings and roll around a lot. The torque
strap keeps the engine from rocking when you let out the clutch. I
guarantee you will be amazed and impressed. First time my wife drove
ours after I added the chain she noticed it immediately and raved about
it. The clutch becomes *much* more linear.
-> still stock. The rear end is locked. I've been running 7.0 x 13
-> slicks because that's all I could fit in the wheel wells with the 13
I ran slicks for a while on mine, on 13s, but I liked the BFG R1s much
better. 15x7 wheels with a 4-1/4" backspace will fit under the stock
wheelwells and will let you run 205-50/15 tires, which is what's on my
'72.
-> x 5.5" alloy rims that I have. I'm going to 14 x 6's for next year
-> and will be cutting the rear wheel wells out.
Not a good deal. The selection of 14" tires is pathetic, particularly
for "performance" tires. For racing rubber it's about zero. Cutting
the rear wheel wells out is bad news - the inner body tub and the
quarter panel are spot welded together there and rolled under into the
fender lip. That section - the one that rots on many Capris - is the
major structural area of rear of the car. It contributes considerably
to the torsional stiffness. If you have to open the wheelwells up
you'll need to slot the edges of the wheelwell, tap the inside well up
with a hammer, and bend the outer metal back under and into the well and
achor everything with screws or rivets. I've done it before and it was
a pain in the ass. Much better to stay with the proper size tires. The
steamroller wheels I had on back then didn't help me a bit.
Traction Master (TMC) in California makes a 1-1/8" front bar. It's the
best suspension bang you'll get. Buy it or an equivalent. Don't even
consider a 1" bar - stiffness goes up as the fourth power of the
diameter. It will *reduce* understeer - the stuff you read in the
handling books assume the car has little body roll and is fairly neutral
to begin with.
Make sure all the biodegradable rubber bushings and couplers in the
front end are okay. Best to replace it all anyway.
Remove the clutch cable - a ten minute job - and flush it thoroughly
with motor oil. Mold a modeling clay funnel on the end, hang it
somewhere with a bucket to catch the oil, and run half a quart or so
through. 90wt gear oil works well for cable lube after it's flushed.
It will help enough to notice.
The Ford shifters bite the big one. Take yours out, clean everything,
lube it up. A few months ago someone posted a source of NOS and repro
shifter parts. The zinc casting tends to wear on the sides making the
shift pattern wide and sloppy. Epoxy spring steel shims over the worn
areas until the shifter is nice and tight. You can get spring steel
shim stock from some auto parts stores or any machine shop supply house.
The Capri brake lines were routed by a moron who left lots of nice
loops that catch and hold air, which is why most Capris have soft nasty
brake pedals. Buy one of those chrome metal bolt-in tire valves from a
tire store, drill a hole in the plastic cap on the master cylinder, and
install the tire valve. Buy one of the little tire air compressors that
plug into the cigarette lighter. Cut off the cigarette lighter adaptor
and put on a couple of big alligator clips from Radio Shack. Set the
compressor to no more than 30 psi and you can now use compressed air to
bleed the brakes. It is the only way to get all the air bubbles out of
a Capri brake system, plus you can now bleed your brakes without help.
The Capri cigarette lighter is a nonstandard size, plus the compressors
usually pull enough current to melt wiring under the dash.
I recommend pulling all four wheels and disassembling the calipers and
wheel cylinders at least once every two years. Immediately if you just
got the car. The calipers have a very bad tendency for the pistons to
stick causing the car to pull to one side or do other things not
immediately obvious as brake trouble. The rear cylinders are aluminum,
tend to corrode, and are *very* expensive to replace. The lines also
tend to stick to the cylinders. I recommend a spray can of
Knock-R-Loose or your favorite rust dissolver, the proper size metric
flare wrench, and patience.
That ought to get you going...
The carb, bar, tires, and bushings will bring you 90% of the way to my
super-duper, no-holds-barred, high-zoot Modified class Solo setup for a
while lot less money.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 20:58:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: [email protected]
-> They're hard to find these days, unfortunately. In the USA Team Blitz
-> still has Bilsteins, while Mark Wilson can get Konis. You can find
I've used the Konis. They stink. The KYBs I have now could stand to
be stiffer but at least they didn't puke their oil within a month.
-> If the springs give you the stock ride height, lower them.
I've run stock to radically lowered. There is *some* difference, but
you're trading a slightly lowered CG for disadvantaging the already-poor
MacPherson strut geometry in front, plus rear suspension travel is
already marginal at stock height. Plus tire clearance problems. I
don't recommend lowering at all, unless you just want to do it for
looks.
-> Change the rubber coupler in the steering to plastic. CAUTION: This
-> puts more stress on the U-joint in the steering, so it will wear more
-> quickly.
The plastic ones will destroy the ball bearing in the rack input shaft
very quickly. They also don't do any better than a non-slotted rubber
coupler. I used to sell non-slotter couplers for $5. I don't know if I
still have any left, but they're trivially easy to make. An angle
grinder and an old tire will give you a wonderful coupler for free.
-> Change the front and rear antiroll bars to stiffer ones. If you don't
-> plan to drive the car on the street, try stiffening the rear bar
-> first. DO NOT DO THIS ON A CAR YOU WILL DRIVE ON THE STREET! It can
-> give you a *VERY* nasty oversteer!
Where did you find a bar that would do this? I was only able to find
5/8" and 3/4" rear bars. I bought a 3/4" bar. I used hard urethane
bushings to the body, ditched the rubber mounted and links and
fabricated billet aluminum adapters with 3/8" rod ends and mounted the
axle ends of the links to get maximum travel in roll.
I could *just barely* tell if the bar was hooked up or not. My wife
can't tell at all. The car still understeers resolutely at autocross
and street speeds. Granted my car is quite modified and the rear bar
was one of the last mods I did, but it was a complete waste of time.
Matter of fact it isn't even connected now. The rod ends eventually
wore until they made clicking noises that were bothersome, so I
disconnected the ends and used some baling wire to tie it up out of the
way. I'd sell it cheap if it wasn't such a hassle to remove.
-> Add either a Watts linkage or a Panhard rod to locate the rear axle.
-> Panhard rods are simple, but they only work well if the rear
-> suspension doesn't have much travel. On a low autocross car with a
-> stiff supension they are often OK.
Gotta watch those books, Larry. A lot of that stuff just ain't so, or
only applies to cars that are very unlike a Capri. Been there, done
that.
-> Move the battery to the trunk. HINT: Use a separate run of *VERY*
-> heavy gauge wire for the starter circuit; take it directly to the
Mine is in the trunk. I recommend running the battery cable through
the interior under the carpet. My positive cable has been pinched a
couple of times by car lifts, and I did it once with a floor jack.
It's difficult to find the right size grommets to pass the cable
through sheet metal, but a short piece of heater hose or large fuel line
works just fine.
Run the largest diameter wire you can afford. Welding cable is less
expensive than "battery" cable for some reason. Welding shops also have
the proper equipment to stake the lugs onto the ends of the cable.
-> another LSD. Unfortunately this is not cheap. Torsens are generally
-> the best, but on an autocross car the suspension has to be just right
A Torsen and the cost of having it installed will probably exceed the
value of the car. I'd think a long time about that.
Back when I was running SCCA Solo things were a bit different. Now
things are easier since Ford USA has disowned the German-made Capris.
As an "orphan" the parts interchange rules are more lenient, though you
usually have to get a letter from the Solo Board to make sure you're
okay. I'd give serious thought to petitioning the Board and just
swapping a whole different rear end under the car out of something with
a limited slip rear, like the Mustang II 8-inch. In fact, that's
exactly what I was planning before I gave up SCCA Solo. You could
aquire and install an 8" for *much* less than doing the Torsen, plus you
could go to a regular driveshaft.
-> If you can track down an early 1971 Capri 2000 transmission (also
-> very rare), use it. The early ones had a slightly taller 1st gear
-> (about 3.5:1 instead of 3.65:1). I'm not sure when they changed, but
-> I'm pretty sure my 1971 Capri (produced July '71) has the shorter 1st
-> gear.
Why in the world would you want to do that? The closer spacing of the
gears is a disadvantage. I know; I'm running a Rocket box in mine and I
really miss that 3.65 first.
-> As for ignition advance, my experience with the 2000 suggests that it
-> wants all the advance it can get. You will probably be limited by the
[much good distributor curving advice deleted]
Volvo, Porsche, VW, and others all used the same basic distributor head
on various shafts. There's a wide range of advance mechanism pieces to
play with, but all the ones I've seen are fairly difficult to work with
compared to, say, the Delco rigs found in GM cars. I've often wondered
if the Motorcraft distributor used in the 2000cc Pinto might be more
amenable to getting a curve that the 2000 likes.
-> The first thing to do: Get a copy of David Vizard's 1985 classic "How
-> to Modify Ford S.O.H.C. Engines" (ISBN 0 86343 0856). It's a bit
-> dated
It was apparently written about ten years before that. For some reason
it was a very long time before it saw print.
->the suppliers list is way out) but still essential.
Check the web sites for dragnet and fordnatics. My 10,000 line
automotive vendor list can be found there. I got tired of digging
through old magazines and just typed it all in...
-> If you're running DSP you will have to set the cam advance to within
-> factory specs. The good thing is, the production tolerance is
-> something like +/- 8 degrees, so you have a little room to fiddle
-> with it. A Racer Walsh adjustable cam sprocket is a big help here.
Unless there's been a rules change the adjustable cam sprocket is not
legal in Street Prepared. I got protested on that.
I had read an article in Hot Rod about the wonders of changing the cam
advance on the 2000 and see mention elsewhere. Oddly, I could run my
Piper sprocket to the limits of its range without doing much except
changing the idle speed.
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 1997 21:21:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] Pinto Trans in a Capri
To: [email protected]
-> The former owner of my Capri put a Pinto trans into the car. Does
-> anyone know if this tranny is any good?
Should be the iron case/aluminum bellhousing/aluminum tailshaft job.
Otherwise known as the "Rocket" box. Ford UK used to sell conversion
kits to retrofit them to competition Capris. It's a very good box.
I'm running one.
-> The internal rail linkage seems sloppy. Are there short throw or
-> improved shifters for the thing?
Mark Wilson had the last ones Hurst made. He may still have some.
The stock shifter tends to get loose and the plastic threads pop out of
the tailshaft. You might want to see if it is screwed in all the way.
Also most Pintos had a two-piece handle big rubber bushing in it which
makes it feel sloppy. Ford did it for noise control, or so they said.
I've played with various lubricants in mine. The stock Sachs box liked
ATF just fine and shifted *wonderfully* better with ATF than with any of
the 90-wt oils I tried. The Rocket box doesn't like ATF at all. After
experimenting a bit I settled on ordinary 90wt gear oil as recommended
in the Pinto service manual. Since then, GM and Mitsubishi have come
out with cars that require a *30 weight* gear oil. Next time I'm flush
with round tuits I intend to try some.
Don't try motor oil. It doesn't have the high pressure capability of
gear oil or ATF.
You probably have a Pinto starter and external relay instead of Bosch,
if you ever need to replace it. And you might want to see if you lucked
into a one piece driveshaft conversion or if you got a modified Capri
front half and a stock back half.
-> Is there a way to adapt the Capri speedo cable to the Pinto trans?
-> I'd like to get a speedo again.
Capri cable from the speedo, Pinto cable from the trans, universal core
replacement kit, 2" piece of 5/16" fuel line and two hose clamps.
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 09:34:12 -0500 (est)
From: Andrew Kelman
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Brake Booster Bashing
To: [email protected]
Seeing as how the vaccuum from the manifold is going to unbalance the carbies
tune anyway, why not get rid of the booster? The brake pressure increases, so
replace it with a manual master cylinder, with a reduced internal diameter, I
got mine from an old Galant. Otherwise if you've got money to spend, buy a
pedal box, this is probably cheaper than rebuilding a motor that has been run
without air cleaners.
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 09:57:57 -0500 (est)
From: Andrew Kelman
To: [email protected], [email protected],
As an alternate to either of these locating devices: how about an A-arm.
This locates to the bottom of the diff, to a bracket, also part of the
reinforcement of the housing. At the other end brackets depend from the front
spring bolts, so that the arm hangs level with the road surface. My A-arm is
constructed in a wishbone shape of tubular steel, with rose joints at the three
corners.
It lowers the roll centre, though I am unsure as to the merit of this. The rear
gets a lot stiffer, and slides more, requiring softer springs and lowering
blocks, and good tyres; also the front is made much more stiffer to balance the
car. Only problem is I can't jack the car up from under the diff anymore.
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 21:39:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re[2]: [capri-list] Mk I Capri 5.0 V8 Conversion
To: [email protected]
-> As an alternate to either of these locating devices: how about an
-> A-arm.
That's a very nice solution. I considered it, but at the time it was
slightly beyond my fabrication capability. If I were to do it over
again I'd definitely consider it, unless I went nuts with something like
a Mumford link. But that'd be mostly for show, as it would have no real
advantage over the A-arm.
-> This locates to the bottom of the diff, to a bracket, also part of
-> the reinforcement of the housing. At the other end brackets depend
-> from the front
All US Capris got the German Sachs rear end. The carrier is cast iron
with the axle tubes attached. The gearset loads from the back with a
sheet metal cover. At the time the only way I could think of to attach
the pivot was to fabricate a spacer ring between the housing and cover
that hung down far enough to pick up a ball joint. Nowadays I'd just
drill and tap the iron housing for a large, fine-thread stud and use a
rod end. And so we learn...
The other advantage of the A-arm is you can pick up off the front
spring mounts, as you mentioned. That's much simpler than attaching
Panhard or Watts (or Mumford) links to bracketry coming off the sheet
metal tub. And by changing the height of the front pivots you can so
some interesting things to anti-squat.
-> It lowers the roll centre, though I am unsure as to the merit of
-> this. The rear gets a lot stiffer, and slides more, requiring softer
-> springs and lowering
I didn't run into this at all. But I'd already added two extra leaves
to each rear spring and done the front suspension upgrades.
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 21:32:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Brake Booster Bashing
To: [email protected]
-> Seeing as how the vaccuum from the manifold is going to unbalance the
-> carbies tune anyway, why not get rid of the booster?
Not legal in the SCCA class I was running at the time. Plus the pedal
pressure without the booster is way too high for my wife to handle, and
the pedal in a Capri is already pretty long.
-> replace it with a manual master cylinder, with a reduced internal
-> diameter, I got mine from an old Galant.
How's the pedal stroke?
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 21:34:58 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: Dave Williams , [email protected]
In reply to my message, Dave Williams wrote:
> I've used the Konis. They stink. ...
I hope your experience was a fluke, because I just bought a set of Konis
for my '71!
> -> If the springs give you the stock ride height, lower them.
>
> I've run stock to radically lowered. ... I
> don't recommend lowering at all, unless you just want to do it for
> looks.
I'm surprised you say this. I have not tried it myself (I run stock class
so it's not allowed), but current and former Capri racers I know swear by
it.
> -> Change the rubber coupler in the steering to plastic. CAUTION: This
> -> puts more stress on the U-joint in the steering ...
> The plastic ones ... don't do any better than a non-slotted rubber
> coupler. ... An angle
> grinder and an old tire will give you a wonderful coupler for free.
Thanks for the tip, I will have to give it a try some time!
> -> Change the front and rear antiroll bars to stiffer ones. If you don't
> -> plan to drive the car on the street, try stiffening the rear bar
> -> first. DO NOT DO THIS ON A CAR YOU WILL DRIVE ON THE STREET! It can
> -> give you a *VERY* nasty oversteer!
> Where did you find a bar that would do this? ...
I have an old RSR bar that is used in conjunction with (rather than instead
of) the stock bar. I'll have to dig it out to measure it. The car it was on
also had a nice thick RSR front bar, so it didn't oversteer.
A while back someone (can't remember who) sent an "oversteer" horror story
to the list involving the destruction of someone else's Mk1 Capri 2600
Turbo... IIRC the car had REALLY stiff rear springs, which may have tipped
the balance.
In any case it's best to treat rear suspension stiffening with caution.
It's better to be safe than sorry...
> -> Add either a Watts linkage or a Panhard rod to locate the rear axle.
> -> Panhard rods are simple, but they only work well if the rear
> -> suspension doesn't have much travel. On a low autocross car with a
> -> stiff supension they are often OK.
>
> Gotta watch those books, Larry. A lot of that stuff just ain't so, or
> only applies to cars that are very unlike a Capri. Been there, done
> that.
Hang on a second. A Panhard rod forces the axle to remain at a constant
radius from its pivot point. If the axle moves up and down more than a
little, its side to side motion has to become significant. Maybe the key
phrase here is "a little", which is rather nebulous. I guess I'll have to
defer to Dave's practical experience after all. In my case it's moot, since
I can't use one in stock class.
> -> another LSD. Unfortunately this is not cheap. Torsens are generally
> -> the best, but on an autocross car the suspension has to be just right
>
> A Torsen and the cost of having it installed will probably exceed the
> value of the car. I'd think a long time about that.
Torsens cost about $US1000. Unfortunately the standard LSD for the Capri
rear end costs about the same. If you can get away with a Mustang rear end
things are probably better.
> -> If you can track down an early 1971 Capri 2000 transmission (also
> -> very rare), use it. The early ones had a slightly taller 1st gear
> -> ...
> Why in the world would you want to do that? The closer spacing of the
> gears is a disadvantage. I know; I'm running a Rocket box in mine and I
> really miss that 3.65 first.
Strange, I find that the gap between the 3.65:1 1st and 1.97:1 2nd is a bit
too big. Also, the difference between 3.5:1 and 3.65:1 is not that great.
> -> The first thing to do: Get a copy of David Vizard's 1985 classic "How
> -> to Modify Ford S.O.H.C. Engines" (ISBN 0 86343 0856). It's a bit
> -> dated
> -> If you're running DSP you will have to set the cam advance to within
> -> factory specs. ... A Racer Walsh adjustable cam sprocket is a big help
here.
>
> Unless there's been a rules change the adjustable cam sprocket is not
> legal in Street Prepared. I got protested on that.
Can't find anything about it in the 1997 rules, so it's of questionable
legality. I'd be inclined to argue that as long as the cam advance is
within factory specs the sprocket doesn't matter, but I don't know if that
would fly in a protest...
> I had read an article in Hot Rod about the wonders of changing the cam
> advance on the 2000 and see mention elsewhere. Oddly, I could run my
> Piper sprocket to the limits of its range without doing much except
> changing the idle speed.
My understanding is that changing cam advance doesn't change the torque
peak much, it just changes where it occurs.
Be seeing you,
-Larry Wells ([email protected])
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 23:36:14 -0500
From: "Craig A. Blome"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: Dave Williams , [email protected]
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Williams
To: [email protected]
Date: Monday, October 20, 1997 11:00 PM
Subject: [capri-list] New list member
>If you're not restricted by class rules, the biggest bang for the buck
>for the 2.0 is in carburetion. Racer Walsh used to have an adapter kit
>to mount a 350 Holley on the stock intake.
Still listed, and Offenhauser manifolds are also available, though for what
they cost you may as well consider Webers. The applicable Holley 350 is
specially calibrated for 4 cylinder engines...don't remember the part #
offhand but it isn't the one used on V6's.
>I recommend pulling all four wheels and disassembling the calipers and
>wheel cylinders at least once every two years. Immediately if you just
>got the car. The calipers have a very bad tendency for the pistons to
>stick causing the car to pull to one side or do other things not
>immediately obvious as brake trouble.
Listen to da man, it's good advice. Curiously, my car's pull under braking
got worse when I overhauled the brakes! It exposed bushing problems that
weren't obvious at 50% stopping power :-0
>The rear cylinders are aluminum,
>tend to corrode, and are *very* expensive to replace.
For this reason, you want to be very gentle reattaching the lines. Cross
threading is bad (don't ask how I know). Replacements are about $40. Get
some brake fluid while you're there, it should be changed yearly for
corrosion prevention(and perhaps more often for track use). I prefer
Castrol GT-LMA for its high dry boiling point.
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 23:18:39 -0500
From: "Craig A. Blome"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
Sender: [email protected]
To: Lawrence Wells ,
-----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence Wells
To: Dennis McGuire
Cc: Capri-List
Date: Sunday, October 19, 1997 8:31 PM
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
>If the springs give you the stock ride height, lower them.
Keep in mind that in MacPherson strut suspensions, lowering the car will
usually drop the roll center faster than the center of gravity, increasing
the car's tendency to roll. In addition, the camber curves get unfriendly
in this region. One reason why I favor the idea of shorter tires for
lowering.
>Add either a Watts linkage or a Panhard rod to locate the rear axle.
>Panhard rods are simple, but they only work well if the rear suspension
>doesn't have much travel. On a low autocross car with a stiff supension
>they are often OK.
Use the longest possible Panhard and make it level at ride height and it
should be OK. The Watts linkage is theoretically better, but is sensitive.
If the geometry isn't close to ideal it can bind at large roll angles,
producing sudden oversteer at inopportune moments. Get silly in a first gen
Mazda RX7 and this will be demonstrated to you (this is why many RX7 racers
replace the Watts linkage with a Panhard rod).
>Move the battery to the trunk. HINT: Use a separate run of *VERY* heavy
>gauge wire for the starter circuit; take it directly to the into starter
>relay.
Secure very carefully. We had a guy in our club suffer an electrical fire
at a Divisional when his battery hot cable got loose in the engine
compartment, melted to the header, and shorted. Could have been the end of
a nice '69 Z28...
>If you can track down an early 1971 Capri 2000 transmission (also very
>rare), use it. The early ones had a slightly taller 1st gear (about 3.5:1
>instead of 3.65:1). I'm not sure when they changed, but I'm pretty sure my
>1971 Capri (produced July '71) has the shorter 1st gear.
It should be noted that E Prepared may substitute any gearbox (such as the
Pinto unit). I think rear axles may be free as well. The '76 Pinto station
wagon 4-speed had the closest ratios if memory serves. (BTW are the 2000
and 2300 input shafts the same?)
>If you're running EP, the maximum legal wheel size is 14" x 7". If you're
>running DSP, wheels are unrestricted (don't ask me...). I'm told that 85-86
>Mustang 15 x 7 wheels will fit the Capri, but later ones won't.
>
I've often wondered at that m'self. The ten hole 'telephone dial' Mustang
wheels are heavyish (the light ones are the later LX five spoke jobs, which
I think do not fit the Capri). If you *must* use production wheels, go to
your friendly wrecking yard or Hub Cap Annie and ask to see a Hollander
wheel catalog. This classifies all production wheels by size, bolt pattern,
offset, etc. and cross references them so you can easily find fitments. (I
found some 14x6's off an '85 Tempo which I will mount up when I get them
refinished someday...) Otherwise, have a go through a Summit or Jegs catalog
for wheel ideas. Steel is heavier than aluminum, but is also stronger and
can use smaller thicknesses for a given load. And there are plenty of
companies willing to make wheels to your specified bolt pattern and offset.
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 07:23:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: [email protected]
-> > I've used the Konis. They stink. ...
> I hope your experience was a fluke, because I just bought a set of
> Konis for my '71!
Mine lasted a few weeks before they started puking oil. At stock ride
height, too. Koni wouldn't honor their warranty because I didn't get
them from an "authorized Koni dealer." I got ripped off big time.
I don't care how wonderful they've been to other people, or if they've
changed their policy since then, or whatever. I carry a grudge a long
time.
-> > I've run stock to radically lowered. ... I
-> > don't recommend lowering at all, unless you just want to do it for
-> > looks.
> I'm surprised you say this. I have not tried it myself (I run stock
> class so it's not allowed), but current and former Capri racers I
> know swear by it.
It looks good, but it doesn't make it any quicker through the cones.
Of course my car has almost no body roll to start with. It would
probably make a soft car *feel* a bit better though.
With the Capri's miserably short suspension travel to start with, the
lowering just beat the hell out of the bump stops even with very stiff
springs.
Back up at stock ride height with the stiff suspension I don't slow
down for *anything*. I can hammer over what the Highway Department
laughingly calls "roads", railroad tracks, potholes that would swallow a
Geo, and the car doesn't care. That's real world speed, as opposed to
picking your way between speed bumps and potholes with a radically
lowered car.
-> Hang on a second. A Panhard rod forces the axle to remain at a
-> constant radius from its pivot point. If the axle moves up and down
-> more than a little, its side to side motion has to become
-> significant. Maybe the key phrase here is "a little", which is rather
-> nebulous. I guess I'll have to defer to Dave's practical experience
-> after all.
You don't have to defer. You can use your tape measure to see how long
a Panhard you can fit. I'd tell you how long mine is, but it's 36
degrees and raining outside and I don't want to make my point *that*
bad... now measure the distance between the axle tube and bump stop at
ride height. Double that number to allow for droop travel. Now go back
inside where it's warm, tape a piece of paper to the floor, and draw a
straight line the length of the suspension travel. Lay out the tape
centered and perpendicular to that line. Holding the far end down, move
the end of the tape from one end of the line to the other, holding a
pencil against the end of the tape. You have now drawn the Panhard's
arc. It won't be much.
Now compare that to the car, with the axle held on flexible springs in
turn held by soft rubber bushings.
The transverse A-arm someone mentioned yesterday is a better layout
than either the Panhard or the Watts (which actually has an S-shaped
curve). But the lateral movement with the Panhard is so small in
comparison to the rest of the slop in the car it's not an issue.
-> Torsens cost about $US1000. Unfortunately the standard LSD for the
-> Capri rear end costs about the same. If you can get away with a
-> Mustang rear end things are probably better.
And you'll need to allow another US$150 to $250 for labor to install
the LSD or Torsen. Most people don't have the tools to set up the gears
like I do.
-> Strange, I find that the gap between the 3.65:1 1st and 1.97:1 2nd is
-> a bit too big. Also, the difference between 3.5:1 and 3.65:1 is not
-> that great.
The car is definitely doggy in traffic now. You have to slip the
clutch more with the Rocket box. Once it's rolling there's no problem.
I never noticed or worried about the gear spacing from first to second.
-> Can't find anything about it in the 1997 rules, so it's of
-> questionable legality. I'd be inclined to argue that as long as the
-> cam advance is within factory specs the sprocket doesn't matter, but
-> I don't know if that would fly in a protest...
I got protested on the "if it's not explicitly allowed, you can't do
that" rule.
-> My understanding is that changing cam advance doesn't change the
-> torque peak much, it just changes where it occurs.
Theoretically, yes. I can only report my experience though.
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 07:59:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] New list member
To: [email protected]
-> Use the longest possible Panhard and make it level at ride height and
-> it should be OK. The Watts linkage is theoretically better, but is
-> sensitive. If the geometry isn't close to ideal it can bind at large
-> roll angles, producing sudden oversteer at inopportune moments. Get
-> silly in a first gen Mazda RX7 and this will be demonstrated to you
-> (this is why many RX7 racers replace the Watts linkage with a Panhard
-> rod).
Tyrannosaurus RX will do exactly that. Which is why I plan to do a
Mumford link when I find enough round tuits. Geometrically the Mumford
isn't a big deal, but it looks so tuff I can't resist.
-> Secure very carefully. We had a guy in our club suffer an electrical
-> fire at a Divisional when his battery hot cable got loose in the
-> engine compartment, melted to the header, and shorted. Could have
-> been the end of a nice '69 Z28...
In a first gen Capri the battery tray or box needs to be offset inboard
enough to allow removing the battery. First time I mounted the box I
found out I couldn't get the battery in. Duh. Also, the SCCA doesn't
like the common plastic marine battery boxes without an angle iron
frame or other positive location setup.
-> It should be noted that E Prepared may substitute any gearbox (such
-> as the Pinto unit). I think rear axles may be free as well.
I never liked Prepared much. Trying to run a street car against a
gutted, non-street-legal trailer queen seemed pretty futile. On the
flip side, the rules are rather restrictive given that you'd be building
a Real Race Car(tm). I believe Prepared came into existence to allow
one of the SCCA road race classes to have their own Solo class.
-> for wheel ideas. Steel is heavier than aluminum, but is also
-> stronger and can use smaller thicknesses for a given load.
I have been weighing wheels and collecting data for a few years. For
*DOT-legal* aluminum wheels vs *DOT-legal* steel wheels there is seldom
any difference in weight for the same size wheel. Aluminum *racing*
wheels *may* be substantially lighter than street wheels depending on
what sort of racing they're intended for.
If you will be buying a second set of wheels for racing tires, I
strongly recommend a steel wheel if one is available. They will usually
cost you less to start with, they'll cost you less to have tires mounted
and balanced (most of the time), it's much harder for the tire jockeys
to scar or destroy the wheel, and they can be straightened more easily
and safely than aluminum wheels if they get bent.
Downside is, selection of steelies seems to be limited to 13, 14, 15,
and a very few 16 inch diameters. If anyone knows where I can get some
17" steel rims let me know...
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 20:52:20 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] autocross Capri mods, ex- New list member
To: Capri-List
Regarding Capri modifications for autocross, I previously wrote:
> >If you're running EP, the maximum legal wheel size is 14" x 7". If
you're
> >running DSP, wheels are unrestricted (don't ask me...). I'm told that
85-86
> >Mustang 15 x 7 wheels will fit the Capri, but later ones won't.
Craig Blome replied (in part)
> ...I found some 14x6's off an '85 Tempo which I will mount up when I get
them
> refinished someday ...
I hope you were not planning to run these on your Capri, because the offset
is all wrong (this is true of most wheels for FWD cars). I have a set of
Tempo 14x5.5" wheels on my beater Escort. Just for giggles I tried putting
them on my '72 "Rustmobile" Capri once, and they hit the front struts. The
14x6" are even worse. On the bright side, they work nicely on FWD cars like
the Escort.
Regarding suitable carburetors, Dave Williams wrote:
>If you're not restricted by class rules, the biggest bang for the buck
>for the 2.0 is in carburetion. Racer Walsh used to have an adapter kit
>to mount a 350 Holley on the stock intake.
Craig Blome added:
>The applicable Holley 350 is specially calibrated for 4 cylinder
engines...
Buy it from someone familiar with the 2000, like Racer Walsh. Your local
"brand X" parts pusher will probably only have ones better suited to small
V-8s.
Other possible carbs: The Weber 38 DGAS and Weber 40 DFAV will bolt
directly onto a stock 2000 intake manifold. The 40DFAV has about the same
flow rating as the 350 Holley. The 38 DGAS is somewhere in between the
stock carb and the 40 DFAV's roughly 350 CFM. The 38 DGAS is probably
better for a road car. If anyone is interested I can dig up an initial
calibration for a 40 DFAV on a 2000.
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 1997 23:02:03 -0500
From: "Craig A. Blome"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Stuff
To: Lawrence Wells , [email protected]
>You will likely need to change over to '72 rear springs too, I'm pretty
>sure they went to softer springs when they changed to the rear antiroll bar
>in '73.
Walton's book lists 94 lb front and 89 lb rear for the 3 litre, apparently a
substantial drop. He writes, "the rear anti-roll bar picked up on the old
radius arm location points and 'did nothing', in the words of one laughing
Ford engineer." :)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 07:03:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Stuff
To: [email protected]
-> You will likely need to change over to '72 rear springs too, I'm
-> pretty sure they went to softer springs when they changed to the rear
-> antiroll bar in '73.
Unlike British spec Capris, which appear to have used a slightly
different spring for every conceivable option package, the US Federal
Capris used the same front and rear springs from '70 to '74. There's
something like 750 pounds difference between a '70 1600 and a '74 2.8.
Yup, ride height went down every year, and the V6s sat lower than the
fours. I got suspicious when I found only one spring listed in the
Lincoln-Mercury parts book for all applications. The micrometer and my
then-extant collection of parts cars verified it.
That's why so many US '74s with the monster crash bumpers look like low
riders. I don't know how heavy those bumpers are, but it takes two
people to carry one to the dumpster. I've been told the '73 bumpers
will bolt up with their rubber shock absorbers. I haven't actually seen
that. The '73 bumpers bolt up different from the '72 and earlier,
though, at least in the front.
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 1997 23:37:00 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] autocross Capri mods, ex- New list member
To: Dave Williams
Dave,
Regarding Capri carbs:
> -> ... If anyone is interested I can dig up an
> -> initial calibration for a 40 DFAV on a 2000.
>
> Over here! And where would I find a 40 DFAV?
If you find yourself over in England they were used on early Capri 3000s.
Otherwise, you can get new ones from your favorite Weber distributor (at
least you could a few years ago). The "official" US Weber importers are
Interco (east coast) and Redline (west coast). There are many "unofficial"
importers.
A good starting point for the setup is:
Main venturis: 28mm (I think they all come with fixed 28mm venturis)
Aux. venturis: 4.0
Main jet: 1.60
Emulsion Tube: F5
Air Corrector: 1.70
Idle jet: 0.60
Pump jet: 0.70
Needle valve: 2.00
You might also want to check with my brother Dave
([email protected]); he is using a Weber 40 DFAV on his modified '73
2000.
BTW a 40 DFAV calibrated for a British Capri 3000 works pretty well on our
2.8 V6. It will bolt directly onto a '74 intake manifold without the scary
90 degree adaptor if you machine the openings in the manifold to clear
those 40mm butterflies. Unfortunately the '76-on manifold is different, so
the 40 DFAV won't work without an adaptor of some kind.
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 1997 09:21:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Battery
To: [email protected]
-> looks. What can be done to lighten up the front bumper? Can that
-> tube on the inside be removed and the outer crome bumper put back on?
There's a steel tube inside the bumper and two bonded-rubber impact
absorbers alongside the radiator, plus an SMC plastic fascia between the
bumper and the body. I don't remember if the holes in the '73 bumper
are the same as the earlier cars, but you'd have to build all new
brackets anyway if you removed the tube.
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 15:49:20 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Batteries and bumpers....
To: [email protected]
Forgive me (puts on flame proof suit), but isn't this stuff about batteries
in boots (trunks) and weights of bumpers going just a little too far?
Yeah, a battery in the boot will put more weight in the rear, but for
anything but an out and out race car, is it really worth all the effort? I
would seriously defy anyone to notice any difference in a road car, and if
they can, where do you live where you can push the car to such limits enough
to notice, 'cos I wanna move there. I got stopped by the pigs the other
morning just for driving past them and cracking the throttle open and making
my Dellortos bark at them. If I start doing sufficiently fast cornering to
notice a battery in the boot, they'd lock me up and throw away the key.
As for the weights of bumpers, stateside you should seriously think about
ditching those huge US spec bumpers and getting some European ones, they'll
improve the looks no end as well as being lighter. If you have a Mk2 either
the Mk2 ones, or Mk3 ones should fit as long as you use the side pieces as
well. Or why not ditch them altogether?
Alternatively, Mark at Weber Classic Racing ([email protected],
http://members.aol.com/mdinsdale/wcr/main.htm) does a rather fetching set of
carbon fibre Mk3 bumpers that weigh about the same as a piece of cigarette
paper. I'm sure he could do them for Mk1's and Mk2 in the European style. And
no, he hasn't paid me to say this, although if he gets enough orders, I'm
sure he won't mind sending me a complemetary pair (eh Mark?).
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 1997 19:31:39 -0500
From: David Schwarze
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Bumper weight
To: [email protected] (Dave Williams), [email protected]
At 6:35 PM -0500 10/27/97, Dave Williams wrote:
> Uh, if you get the chance, would you? I gave my last '73 bumper
> assembly to a fellow Capri owner last year. The whole bumper unit,
> absorbers and all, could easily be carried with one hand. And I
> ain't Arnie Schwarzenegger!
Okay, the dirty deed is done and here are the results. The front bumper
assembly from the US specification '73 Capri weighs in at 42 lbs on my
bathroom scale. The breakdown is as follows:
Bumper + reinforcement 20
5 mph Brackets (2) 18
Rubber beauty strip 4
So it looks like my memory failed me somewhat - maybe I was just really
tired the last time I took it off, or maybe I'm just a wimp. :-)
In any case, now that I've got the bumper off, I don't think I'm going to
be in a hurry to put it back on. I kind of like the way it looks with no
front bumper, but God help me if I hit anything...
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 22:03:41 -0600
From: "Barry G. McKinzey"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Engine Choice
To: Capri list
>As for transmissions, the Pinto transmission will work. If you want a stock
>transmission, try Norm at Team Blitz (the address is also on the CCC
>"Suppliers" list). If you go with a V6 it's possible to use a T-5 from a
>"Fox" Mustang, though I'm told there is a fair amount of pain and suffering
>involved. Sven Pruett at Vanir knows how to do it.
This is correct. It is a combination of 4.0 starter, flywheel, pressure
plate, Mustang II bellhousing, a specific 5.0 throw-out bearing, a Hayes
clutch, a new pilot bearing adapted to the flywheel, a custom driveshaft, a
custom crossmember (or modified original), special bolts Sven had made for
him, etc. I have all the parts ready to be assembled except the driveshaft
and crossmember. We're waiting until we put the motor back in for those
parts. I also need a shifter and continued patience while the project
slowly grinds along.
>> p.s. I lost the keys, too. Any hope for replacing locks?
>
>Have you tried contacting a locksmith? They may be able to reproduce the
>keys. If you have to replace locks, Norm at Team Blitz is probably your
>best bet. IIRC the price of ignition lock cylinders is REALLY high...
BTW I have a couple of spare ignition locks just lying around doing
nothing. They are used, not new. A few years ago I got a brand new one from
Ford. They were also used in the Fiesta and since it was around longer than
the Capri the local dealer could easily order one. I doubt you can do that
anymore. I did that seven or eight years ago.
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 1997 21:42:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Pinto transmission, ex- Engine Choice
To: [email protected]
-> My answer was obviously incomplete!
I thought I just left a how-to-do-it message about the trans swap a
week or two ago. Maybe it was another list.
-> I'm curious about the wiring mods
-> - I didn't think there was any wiring into the Capri transmission
-> other than the backup light switch, which is external. Did I miss
-> something?
The Federal Capris all got the Bosch starter with built-in relay. The
Pinto starter requires an external relay. Wiring changes involve adding
a Ford starter relay, moving the switched wire from the Bosch starter to
the relay, and adding a battery cable from the relay to the Ford
starter.
'74 and later Capris might have switches on the transmission to actuate
various smog control doodads. I've never messed with any of those, but
they should be easy enough to deal with. I think they eliminated spark
advance in first and second gear or something like that.
I never worried about the backup lights.
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 13:49:35 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] FYI - sale on Capri interior pieces
To: [email protected]
Today I received a flyer from AutoMat in Hicksville, NY (phone 800 645-7258)
concerning a sale they are having. I purchased a complete seat upholstery set
for my ' 73 MK1 last sale for the price of $38.00, had it installed ($275)
and it looks fine. Thought someone might be able to take advantage of the
current listing of Capri pieces.
Capri - '70-72 Seat Upholstery - front & rear Black Vinyl -was $380 sale
$38
Capri - '75 Full Carpet Set Green Loop - was $220 sale $22 Stock#2278
Capri - '75 Full Carpet Set Drk Blue Pile - was $220 sale $22 Stock #2277
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 1997 21:04:21 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Pinto transmission, ex- Engine Choice
To: Capri-List
Regarding Pinto/Capri transmission swaps, I wrote:
> -> My answer was obviously incomplete!
Dave Williams replied:
> I thought I just left a how-to-do-it message about the trans swap a
> week or two ago. Maybe it was another list.
That must be it! It couln't possibly be my (notoriously faulty) memory!
Why, I have a mind like a steel sieve, I mean, steel trap!
> -> I'm curious about the wiring mods ...
> The Federal Capris all got the Bosch starter with built-in relay. The
> Pinto starter requires an external relay. ...
> '74 and later Capris might have switches on the transmission to actuate
> various smog control doodads. ...
I forgot about those... Dave is of course right on all counts. In my
defense, my car is a '71 so it doesn't have any of the smog control
doodads.
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 1997 22:23:37 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Carbs for a 3.0 V6?
To: Anton van den Hengel , [email protected]
Anton wrote:
> I've been seeing all this talk about which carbs for varius engines, but
no
> info about the 3.0 v6. ... does anybody
> know which carb or even what sort of CFM I should be looking for?
The stock 3.0 V6 used either a Weber 40 DFAV (early models) or Weber 38
DGAS (later models). Weber does not give CFM ratings for its carbs, but the
40 DFAV's throttles and venturis are about the same size as the common US
Holley 350 CFM 2-V carb.
Here's how you can get a handle on what CFM rating to look for:
Carb Flow Rating in CFM = (Engine Displacement in cubic in.) * (Maximum
RPM) * (Volumetric Efficiency)/ (2 * 1728)
The tricky term in this equation is Volumetric Efficiency; you are not
likely to find a value specified anywhere. For a roadgoing engine 85%
(0.85) is a reasonable estimate; 95% is a reasonable estimate for very high
performance road/mild race engines.
If your 3.0 liter engine spins at 6000 RPM, it will want to flow about 270
CFM (assuming 85% volumetric efficiency). Generally a carb a bit bigger
than this would be chosen. A 350 CFM Holley 2-V would be a reasonable
choice if only flow rating is considered.
With a 4-V carb you can pick one that's even more oversized without much
adverse effect on low RPM torque, because at low speeds you will only be
using the primary barrels. A Holley 8007 (390 CFM) or a Carter AFB 9400
(400 CFM) would be reasonable choices.
When choosing a US carb by flow rating, there is one rating quirk that must
be considered: The flow rating of 2-V carbs is usually measured at a
pressure drop of 3" Hg, while the flow rating of 4-V carbs is usually
measured at a pressure drop of 1.5" Hg. This means that the flow rating of
a 4-V carb is 41% larger than it appears compared to a 2-V carb; in other
words, that "390 CFM" 4-V carb will flow 550 CFM when measured with the
same 3" Hg pressure drop as the "350 CFM" 2-V carb.
Weber does not flow rate its carbs; instead, Weber publishes charts for
choosing a venturi size given the engine's displacement and maximum RPM.
Throttle valves are chosen so the venturi size is between 70% and 90% of
the throttle size. If a single 2-V carb is used, Weber's chart indicates a
venturi size of around 27mm-28mm is appropriate for a 3.0 liter engine. By
staggering coincidence, the 38 DGAS has 27mm venturis while the 40 DFAV has
28mm venturis. If a 1 barrel/cyl. setup is used the venturis should be much
larger: 36mm-37mm for an engine with a 6000 RPM maximum. The carbs in this
case would be something like a set of Weber 40 DCNF, 42 DCNF, 44 DCNF, or
maybe even 44 IDF.
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 1997 23:27:15 +1300
From: Yeti
Subject: Re: [capri-list] other engine options
To: Pete Waterfield ,
-----Original Message-----
From: Pete Waterfield
To: [email protected]
Date: Wednesday, November 05, 1997 6:53 PM
Subject: Re: [capri-list] other engine options
>>One possibility is a 2.9
>>Cologne V-6 out of a Scorpio. It would have all the advantages of the
newer
>>2.9 truck block, but with fewer fuel injector clearance problems. I
actually
>>saw one of these in a junkyard nearby. I wonder if it's still there.......
>>The big trick would be hooking up the electronics.
>
There is a guy here in our club in N.Z. who has just put one of these
Scorpio quad-cam V6's into his 2.8i, and boy what a difference it makes,
turns the slugish old 2.8i into a rocket :) very good choice of motor swap
in my opinion.
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 1997 21:59:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Engine ventilation
To: [email protected]
-> Actually the air flow through the radiator is already quite good. If
-> you look at the way the cooling air is routed, it makes a pretty fair
Depends on the year/model. On the Mk Is, the early cars and many 4
cylinder ones had the small radiator opening and that was it. Most V6s
had some sort of hole cut in the splash panel below the bumper, usually
looked like a dealer hack job. I even had one where someone had taken
a 3" chassis punch and made a row of round holes.
I found the hard way that just the radiator opening wouldn't cool a V8.
Did okay around town, but on the freeway it overheated. I jigsawed out
a nice 3" tall slot under the bumper - you couldn't see it from most
angles - and it fixed the problem.
I have a rather larger hole under the bumper of my '71. It's primarily
to allow mounting my breadbox-sized Cibie fog lamps. Built all the
bracketry out of 1x1/8" steel flat and angle. The car looks sorta like
a beaver now, but the lights are tucked back and up out of the way of
parking stops, snow piles, and other hazards. And with 120 degree clear
lenses and 130 watt bulbs, I can damned near light up my own door
handles...
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 14:42:54 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Mk II Escort rear end compatibilty
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 07/11/97 01:56:13, [email protected] writes:
<< How about springs and strut inserts?
Are the strut units themselves interchangable? (I know a lot
of rally Escorts over here use Capri V6 struts). This would
make it easy to get parts as there are a lot of Escorts
around here.
Regards,
Volker. >>
The front strut inserts I have on my car are the same as a Mk2 RS2000 Escort,
these being top adjustable Spax dampers. As for as I know, the only
difference between the Escort (non RS2000) and the Capri are the
springs/struts are slightly smaller in diameter on the Escort. A friend has
Capri 2.8 struts on his Mk1 Escort, the bolt pattern for the struts are the
same (good old Ford). Oh, and it corners like it's on rails.
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 15:41:58 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Engine ventilation
To: [email protected], [email protected]
In a message dated 07/11/97 10:32:49, [email protected] writes:
<< Many V8 installations cut down the radiator
mounts and use an electric cooling fan, but this is more for clearance than
airflow. >>
I used an alluminium Audi five cylinder radiator in my V8 Capri, with an
electric fan up front.
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 22:25:19 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: [capri-list] Re: '73 MK1 2.0 Auto engine rebuild
To: [email protected]
Tom Call wrote:
> ... I purchased David Vizard's book ... I have come up with a list of
> modifications for my 2.0 engine rebuild.
>
> Any modifications not listed I should consider?
> Any modifications listed I should consider not doing?
>
> .... Keep in mind my criteria for
> evaluating modifications are in order of importance: 1) Safety 2)
Reliability
> 3) Correction of initial design flaws 4) Keep engine close to stock
> appearance
> 5) Horsepower increase easily obtained in the rebuilding process(keeping
in
> mind #4 means no carb or air cleaner changes)
>
> HEAD
>
> -Intake valves reshaped with a flatter profile ...Reducing the OD of the
valve stem ...
BAT has these valves in the stock 42mm diameter for about $25.00 each.
Oversized 44/45mm valves are more readily available from Manley and other
sources, if your budget permits.
> -Inlet valve guide boss ground down to a "Modified Shape A" (about 3/8"
lower
> than stock).(increases air flow)
> -Possibly installing bronze guide inserts due to reduction on inlet valve
> guide boss. (Cost will need to be determined of this modification)
The tradeoff here is cost and guide life. Cutting down the boss costs money
and will reduce guide life; going to bronze guides costs money and will
increase guide life.
> -Resurface the head, removing 0.045-0.050" off the head for a rise in
> compression ratio about 3/4 of a point.
Your US spec '73 originally had an 8.2:1 compression ratio, so you can
raise the compression ratio substantially. 3/4 of a point should be no
problem at all. You can probably go to around 9.5:1 if you don't mind
feeding it 93 octane.
Make sure you have hardened valve seats The '73 should but you never
know...
You might want to consider buying a modified head from a reputable 2000
supplier like Racer Walsh or Esslinger Engineering.
> -New cam (Sig Ersons 134 grind recommended, but should be very smooth
running
> at all RPMS) ...
I called Erson's a few years ago and #134 was no longer available new. They
might be able to grind your old cam to this profile, though. Several months
ago someone (Mark Wilson?) mentioned that they had purchased a new high
lift, short duration cam from Erson's, so perhaps there is a replacement
for #134.
Since your car has an automatic transmission you should avoid long duration
cams, which usually reduce low RPM torque. Other cams that might be worth a
look are the FR30 and FR31 cams sold by BAT (not sure who actually makes
them).
> -Repalce valve seats ...
Make sure you have hardened valve seats The '73 should already have them
but you never know...
> -Adjustable cam sprocket (Racer Walsh? ) ...
Get one of these.
> -Repalce air filer with a new Motorcarft paper element (best flow with
paper)
Anyone know if K&N makes an element for the stock air cleaner?
> CARB & MANIFOLD
> -Increase the radius on each port runner at the junction with the plenum
..
This does seem to help.
> -On the carburetor 1)remove all flash marks on the auxiliary venturi and
> round the edges of the air horn 2) bore the venturi - primary to 30.0mm
and
> secondary to 31.0 mm 3) remove the choke butterfly 4)narrow butterfly
shafts
> and knife edge the butterflies.(increases air flow)
Skip everything this, except maybe item 1. Enlarging the venturis will
adversely affect low speed driveability, which isn't good in a car with an
automatic transmission. Removing the choke butterfly will make the car
undriveable until it's warmed up; this should only be done on race cars.
Knife edging the throttle butterflies can affect the operation of the
carb's progression circuit if it's not done just right, and the flow gains
are minimal.
If you want more airflow buy a Weber 38 DGAS, which looks very similar to
the stock 32/36 DFAV. It will bolt right onto the stock manifold, and the
stock air cleaner will fit with only a slight modification that will not be
visible. The Weber 40 DFAV is also a good bet, but the air cleaner must be
modified more extensively so it won't look stock.
> EXHAUST
>...
> Cyclone brand muffer "Trubo Sonic" 2 1/4" or 2 1/2".
Walker DynoMax mufflers are also very good.
> IGNITION
> -Electronic ignition (if stock appearance can be kept)
Some have been known to hide the ignition module under the dashboard...
> BLOCK
>...
> -Ceramic coating of underside of the pistons ...
How about ceramic coating the top side of the pistons?
Swain Technology of Scottsville, NY can do this. I had it priced a couple
of years ago and it was $18.00 per piston then. They also have a low
friction coating for the piston skirts that cost $12.00 per piston 2 years
ago. A mech eng. friend of mine tested the low friction coating while he
was at Rochester Institute of Technology (RIT) and he said it was good for
a 2-3% performance improvement. I tried it on my '64 Studebaker, and it
certainly didn't do anything bad; it now has excellent performance and gets
much better gas mileage than it did before. I changed a lot of other things
at the same time, though, so I certainly can't say it's all due to the
coating.
I can dig up Swain's address and phone number if you're interested.
> -Reduce the weight of the pistons, rods and pins. ...
These are most important in engines that will run at high RPM (above 6000
or so) for long periods. Lightening certainly won't hurt anything (if it's
done properly), but if you have to save pennies this might be a place to
cut.
> -Balance and magnaflex engine and componets.
Magnafluxing is good. It would be really embarrasing to spend all that
money on your engine and then have a used part fail due to an undetected
crack...
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 09:10:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] '73 MK1 2.0 Auto engine rebuild
To: [email protected]
-> -Intake valves reshaped with a flatter profile on the back face of
-> the valve and grinding a 30 degree back cut on the back face valve
-> edge(increases air flow)
I did that. I actually cut the back of the intake flat. Then I
ditch-cut the front of the intake and the back of the exhaust to reduce
reverse flow. The shop that ground the valves said the grooves would
carbon up immediately, but when I pulled the head down ten years later
they were all still clean.
-> -Reducing the OD of the valve stem from the the valve to about 1" up
-> the stem(no suggested OD given or length of reduce OD area)(
-> increases air flow).
I cut mine down to .200. I was too chicken to go any further. Worked
just fine. The shop told me the heads would immediately break off and
fall into the engine, of course.
-> -Bore out the throat of the intake port with a 1
-> 9/16" diameter cutter to a depth of 1/4", which should leave you with
-> a seat width of approximately .070 inch. -Then remove the sharp edge
-> with a 75 degree grindstone.(increases air flow)
Did that with my grinder. Most head shops don't have the tooling to
make that sort of cut.
-> -Inlet valve guide boss ground down to a "Modified Shape A" (about
-> 3/8" lower than stock).(increases air flow)
Did that, though I left a little more guide length than Vizard
recommended.
-> -Possibly installing bronze guide inserts due to reduction on inlet
-> valve guide boss. (Cost will need to be determined of this
-> modification)
If you trim the guide bosses down you'll want to make sure the guide
fit is on the tight side.
-> -Exhaust valve reshaped, radiusing the chamber side of
-> the valve and back cutting the back face of the valve to 30 degree
-> angle.(increases air flow)
I radiused the chamber side, but ditch cut the back instead of doing
the 30 degree.
-> -Both valves with chrome plated stems.
If they come that way. It's no big deal.
-> -Shortening standard valve length slightly less than 0.075"/1.9mm.
-> which should yield an increase in lift of slightly less than 0.025.
I trimmed mine down until I only had .010 between the rocker and the
retainer.
-> -Resurface the head, removing 0.045-0.050" off the head for a rise in
-> compression ratio about 3/4 of a point.
3/4 of a ratio, not 3/4 of a point. 3/4 of a point would be, say, 10.0
to 10.075. I cut mine .100 on a mill and had it finish-surfaced by the
head shop.
-> -New cam (Sig Ersons 134 grind recommended, but should be very smooth
-> running at all RPMS) preferably one which has been bored hallow with
-> a small oiling hole that has been drilled into the the loaded flank
-> of each cam lobe (The book states that later Ford cams had this
-> modification).
Erson stopped making that cam somewhere around 1980. They lost the
pattern. The closest they can get is their 280S, which is what I
bought. The 280S idles and runs indistinguishable from a stock cam.
If I were to do things over I'd probably step up to a 290.
I talked to Competition Cams and Crane about a year ago when I was
spec'ing out another 2000 for a friend. Neither of the "experts" at
either place had any clue as to the finger follower geometry of the 2.0.
I don't know of any US manufacturer who does a rifle drilled 2.0 cam.
If your spray bar is clean you shouldn't have any trouble. Ford says
the problems reported in the early days were 1970s oils that were
infrequently changed. Ten years and my Sig cam looks new.
-> -New cam followers, 1979 design or later recognized by a shinny
-> tumbled finish. These have a slightly longer pad that the earlier
-> black-oxide finished followers.
TRW is the only US source for those followers, and they're all the new
type.
-> -Check cam follower hardness which can range from 49 to 55 Rockwell C
-> (hardness) and try for a set in the 54-55 Rockwell C (avoid anything
-> below 52)
The TRWs are all supposed to be the hard type, as opposed to the
variable OEM type. If you do a Rockwell test make sure you don't get
the probe into the wiped area of the pad - and remember with the trimmed
valves and a high lift cam you'll be going right out to the edge of the
pad on one side or the other.
Several companies *used to* offer roller rockers for the 2.0. I think
Esslinger still does. The rollers would eliminate any oiling questions.
They're expensive, but then you could subtract the cost of that new set
of TRW followers and maybe the cost of having them tested. On the other
hand, the rollers don't have as good of a geometry as the pad type...
-> -Repalce valve seats
No! Particularly if you're going oversize on the valves. Seats are
for repair, not for the hell of it. Seats can, and sometimes do, fall
out. When they do there's hell to pay. Plus they interfere with valve
cooling. If the head is in such bad shape you need seats, look for
another head.
-> -New standard steel springs
No again. When you go with an aftermarket cam you'll need to go with
whatever springs the cam grinder recommends. Don't skimp here, or you
can get valve float. That's bad news on the 2000.
-> -Adjustable cam sprocket (Racer Walsh? ) It must permit the original
-> timing belt cover to be used.
Make sure you get one that has degree marks. My old Piper sprocket
doesn't; which means I have to play silly buggers whenever I change the
cam timing. And though various people claim big things, I've never been
able to tell much difference even with 10 degrees of change.
-> -Repalce air filer with a new Motorcarft paper element (best flow
-> with paper) CARB & MANIFOLD
-> -Rebuild carburetor.
-> -Increase the radius on each port runner at the junction with the
-> plenum on the manifold ,increasing the flow. Large radius on the top
-> edge produces greatest gain.(increases air flow)
-> -On the carburetor 1)remove all flash marks on the auxiliary venturi
-> and round the edges of the air horn 2) bore the venturi - primary to
-> 30.0mm and secondary to 31.0 mm 3) remove the choke butterfly
-> 4)narrow butterfly shafts and knife edge the butterflies.(increases
-> air flow)
I did all that. Couldn't tell a damned thing. I talked to Vizard
about it once. He felt the best bang for the buck was the 350 or 500
Holley on the stock intake. I'd recommend buying the kit from Racer
Walsh.
-> EXHAUST
-> -Use 2 1/4" or 2 1/2" ID pipe on exhaust.
I have 2-1/2 to the muffler, 2-1/4 over the axle. The muffler shop I
went to couldn't bend 2-1/2" tight enough without kinking it. The pipe
sets up a resonation in the body and is very "boomy" on the road.
-> Cyclone brand muffer "Trubo Sonic" 2 1/4" or 2 1/2".
I dunno if that one is still around. However, there are several brands
<<<>>>
it will still be much louder than the factory exhaust. I don't
particularly like the sound of mine, even though I'm on the third
muffler. None of them sound as good as the stock muffler.
-> IGNITION
-> -Electronic ignition (if stock appearance can be kept)
Porsche, Volvo, VW, and others use the same basic distributor with
different shafts. You can use the pickup out of one of those and drive
a Chrysler or Delco electronic ignition module. I still have points in
mine, with a Mallory HyFire and a big Mallory coil.
Plan on spending some time with weights and springs to set the advance
curve up. The 2000 will reward you.
-> BLOCK
-> -New standard pistons.
No need to change them if the bores are still standard.
-> -Ceramic coating of underside of the pistons (cost will need to be
-> evaluated, any suggestions of where to have this done?)
You ceramic coat the *top*, where the heat is. Tech Line in Dallas
sells ceramic and moly coatings for do-it-yourself work. You can get
them from Summit or Jegs. When I finally rebuilt my 2000 last year I
coated the bearings (all of them), cam, rockers, pivots, auxiliary
shaft, distributor gear, pistons, etc. The inside of the block, head,
and pan are done in white epoxy paint. Then I did the piston tops,
valves (front and back sides), combustion chambers, and ports in
ceramic. I can't say I felt any big difference in power, but I know the
ceramics are working - you can't make it ping on 85 octane gas (11:1
CR), and the heater don't work worth jack any more.
-> -Reduce the weight of the pistons, rods and pins.
It's a lost cause playing with the stock cast pistons. I wouldn't
worry about it.
-> -Repalce oil pump with new stock unit.
Mine was still perfect after 150,000 miles. I put it back in. In
fact, I reused the main and rod bearings, which showed no visible wear
and miked out perfectly.
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 23:14:43 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] big carbs for 4.0 V6, ex- other engine options
To: [email protected]
Regarding using carburetors on a 4.0 V6 fuel injection manifold, Dave
wrote:
>>And three carbs is alot for 4 liters; what kind of carb would be good for
this app?
I replied:
>Something like a gaggle of Weber 44 DCNF, maybe ...
Tom Pulz added:
<>
46 IDA3C is indeed the 3-V Weber for the Porsche flat 6. The plumbing to
connect a pair of them to a 4.0 would certainly be interesting. From the
curves in my Weber book it looks like the venturis would be in the
neigborhood of 40mm, assuming a 6000 RPM red line. The venturis in a 1
barrel/cylinder setup typically are much larger than in a single carb
setup, because the pressure pulses are not damped much by the intake
system.
Question: Is the 46 IDA3C used only in racing applications? I don't see any
cold start circuit in my diagram.
Date: Sat, 08 Nov 1997 04:34:12 +0000 (GMT)
From: [email protected] (Tom Pultz)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] big carbs for 4.0 V6, ex- other engine options
To: [email protected]
On Fri, 7 Nov 1997 23:14:43 -0500, "Lawrence Wells"
so eloquently stated:
>Question: Is the 46 IDA3C used only in racing applications? I don't see =
any
>cold start circuit in my diagram.
The 40IDA3C doesn't have cold start either and I never needed any cold
start when I ran 48IDAs on my Porsche 356. Porsche doesn't use cold =
start
with any of their Weber systems that I am aware of. The DCOEs I am
running on my V-6 have cold start, but I don't use it and have never
really needed it. With four accelerator pumps supplying fuel, it hasn't
been a problem at all :-) I guess the cold start would be nice so that
the idle would be a bit higher when the engine is cold, but again, I
haven't found that to be a problem either.
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 09:05:51 -0500 (est)
From: Andrew Kelman
Subject: [capri-list] Escort strut compatibility
To: [email protected]
I measured my escort and 1600 capri struts yesterday.
The 1600 escort struts are smaller diameter and same length as 2L
escort struts. The 2L escort struts and the Capri struts are the same
diameter, but the Capri struts sit an inch lower in the stub axle
mount, which makes the strut shorter. Also the capri struts have
bolt-on steering arms, unlike the escort. Looks like the same strut
inserts could be used, but the capri struts have a spacer in the
bottom of the tube. However, Konis, at least, have some spacers on the
insert which enabled them to be used in both strut tubes. Also the
capri struts have heavier stub axles than the escort.
But, are the V6 capri struts different to the 1600 capri struts?
Are they thicker, shorter, or have different stub axles?
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 18:45:32 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Engine ventilation
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 08/11/97 11:07:44, [email protected] writes:
<< Ventilating the engine bay? If you mean removing the underbonnet heat
>generated by the exhausts etc. then why not go for a pair of Escort
Cosworth
>vents let into the bonnet.
< I can't afford a damn thing, something I can make up myself is therefore
preferable.
How about a couple of holes in the scuttle with hoses leading back up over
the cams? I'm not too sure of engine hotspots, so these are all ideas :)
Perhaps some 3" holes in the back of the wheel wells? I could even install
cheap electric fans, if the flow wasn't good enough... Hummz :)>
Isn't there somewhere where you are that can punch louvres into your bonnet.
Should be fairly cheap I would have thought.
I think louvres in the bonnet would improve the cars aerodynamics as well.
When I got my engine back in several months ago, I test drove the car with
just the front bonnet pins holding the bonnet on. At 50mph, the back of the
bonnet was lifting up by about four inches. Any louvres, vents etc. might
help relieve some of this pressure.
> My old rover V8 powered Capi used to generate
>enoguh heat under the bonnet to vaporise the fuel delivered by the old
Facet
>Red Top fuel pump, but it never got to the stage of actually cutting out.
< How do the rover V8s go? I heard they fitted nice and were only 3.5l? >>>
Mine went fine (I'm a poet and don't know it). Much less weight than the old
three-litre Essex lump gave and improved turn in because of it. Power wise, I
had a nice torque curve that didn't drop below 140lb/ft from 2000 to 6000
rpm, peaking at 167lb/ft at 4243rpm, and 159bhpat 5383rpm (rolling road
figures). And the enigne wasn't that tuned up, it had Rhodes lifters and a
Piper cam, but was still on the standard heads and twin 1.75 inch SU carbs.
After I had it rolling-roaded, I was a little disappointed at the figures,
especially when you hear people say that their V6's put out 200bhp plus.
However, we have a magazine here in the UK called "Fast Ford", and they did a
group test of V6 Capris, both Essex and Cologne engines. The only one that
produced more power than mine was a stroked 2.8 (to about 3.2 I think), and
even that only beat mine by a handfull.
Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 18:45:25 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] second gear
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 07/11/97 16:02:56, [email protected] writes:
<< Is it stupid to assume that a 1.6 laser (D reg) can do 50+ in second at
4000-4500 rpm? I think that my speedo must be slightly or drastically out as I
saw 50 at 4000rpm yesterday evening.....>>
You might find that you have a 2.8 gearbox fitted to your car, which would
cause you speedo to over-read, since the 2.8 has the lowest ratio back axle,
3.09:1 I think, whereas the fours have something like 3.44:1 (my Mk1 has a
very high 4.12:1 ratio). To all intents and purposes, they are the same box,
with the exception of the input shaft and the bearings behind it. My car used
to run one of these boxes, the only trouble is, to fit them to a four
cylinder you need to shorten the input shaft (and obviously use a Pinto
bellhousing). A previous owner had done this WITH AN ANGLE GRINDER! Hence, I
used to get wicked clutch drag, making first and second gears a right pain to
get sometimes. It is possible to change the speedo drive gear, but it's
position in the gearbox (right in the tail end, and inserted from the top)
would make this a gearbox out job.
Why not leave it how it is, you'll impress "Max Power" readers no end with
you cars speed capability? Mine used to go off the clock at 140mph, when in
reality it probably wasn't doing much over 125mph.
<< Also how do you brighten up the dash at night?/ >>
Take your dashboard out, and the the instrument cluster. If you then
dismantle the cluster, and take each instrument out, you will see that over
the bulbs there are these stupid blue covers. Take them off, stamp on them,
set fire to the little pieces and then flush the remains down the lavatory.
They serve no other purpose. While you are at it, replace the bulbs with 5w
ones instead of 2w. This should brighten things up. Even better would be to
fit a Capri Club white dial kit (I went for yellow in mine), but make sure
you paint the speedo and tacho needles black otherwise you won't see them.
Then, and only then, will you find that you might need to turn the brightness
control down.
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 06:34:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Engine ventilation
To: [email protected]
-> I think louvres in the bonnet would improve the cars aerodynamics as
-> well. When I got my engine back in several months ago, I test drove
-> the car with just the front bonnet pins holding the bonnet on. At
-> 50mph, the back of the bonnet was lifting up by about four inches.
-> Any louvres, vents etc. might help relieve some of this pressure.
I cut out the back of the hood bulge in one of my old Capris hoods.
Conventional wisdom says the high pressure in front of the windshield
would blow air forward into the hole. Pieces of string taped to the
opening stood straight back, indicating substantial airflow *out* of the
hole. So much for conventional wisdom...
I also tried running with just front hood pins and had the back of the
hood lift up at speed, same as you did. Lots of air pressure under
there.
-> After I had it rolling-roaded, I was a little disappointed at the
-> figures, especially when you hear people say that their V6's put out
-> 200bhp plus.
159 at the rear wheels is nothing to sneeze at. A lot of *much* larger
American V8s only gave about that much. Of course they did it from just
off idle to red line, but that's a different story...
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:03:26 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Re: Ventilation/Rover V8
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 10/11/97 12:53:22, [email protected] writes:
>How simple is the Rover 3.5 to fit? Mounts, etc... fit well?
Shouldn't be too hard as the Rover mounts are in roughly the right place
(I.e on either side of the engine). Just a bit of fabrication (welding etc)
I would think to make up brackets.
Not sure about Capri transmission tunnel space if you use the Rover 5 spd.
Clutch is hydraulic instead of cable.
Can get large bore factory 3.9's, as well as 4.2's and now 4.6's (new Range
Rover).
How about a TVR 5 litre engine!
Those of us 'down under' who know about the Leyalnd P76 can get hold of a
long stroke 4.4 litre pretty cheaply! >>
Not much to add to this. Rover V8 engine brackets more or less fit straight
onto the Capri crossmember, using Capri engine mount rubbers. You may have to
file the holes a bit, but it's that simple. By the way, I had to buy a pair
of Rover engine mounts for my kit car, and they were 34 pounds each plus VAT
(our sales tax - 17.5 per cent). Bogus! It's because only Rover make them,
Capri engine mounts are made by aftermarket people as well as Ford, and these
are only about 10 pound each.
Using the Rover gearbox (which is crap by all accounts compared to Ford), you
have to open the transmission tunnel, and also use the Rover hydraulic
clutch. There are ways round this. I used a three litre 2000E gearbox on my
old V8, with an aluminium bellhousing/adaptor that mated the two. The clutch
release arm was a modified Capri one (modified so it was straighter), using a
standard Capri release bearing. The clutch assembly was a Rover flywheel and
pressure plate, sandwiching a three litre Capri friction plate. Oh, and a
spigot bush of the correct size for the Ford gearbox was pressed into the
Rover crank. On my car, this caused the gearbox to sit about an inch further
back, and angled the gearlever towards the driver (RHD) more.
Can you send me a 4.4 litre engine? I feel another V8 conversion coming on
(not to the Mk1).
Date: Tue, 11 Nov 1997 09:14:52 +1300
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Re: Ventilation/Rover V8
To: [email protected]
JP wrote;
>>Not sure about Capri transmission tunnel space if you use the Rover 5 spd.
There used to be kits sold in the UK to do this conversion. One I remember
used the Ford trans. I have heard that to use a Rover 5-speed you need to
bash the trans tunnel up near the bellhousing.
Neat swap. Theres several done here.
>>Clutch is hydraulic instead of cable.
>Hydraulic clutch? Howsat work? I ain't ever heard of one! :)
Just like your brake system. Very common.
>>Those of us 'down under' who know about the Leyalnd P76 can get hold of a
>>long stroke 4.4 litre pretty cheaply!
>Well, I'm a NZer and I've never heard of one ;)
You used to buy them brand new from the Leyland dealers. Heaps were sold.
If I remember right there are some significant differences with a Rover
engine but I don't have that stuff to hand. On the other hand they were
very similar too.
The P76 was a dismal failure. It was a big car in the Falcon/Holden mold
with quirky styling. Poor build quality, some odd parts, some clever parts
and a devoted following today. There was one racing in the Targa here last
week.
Some of the advertising told how you could put a 44 Gallon (200 l) drum (of
sheep drench) in the boot. I guess that would appeal to Australians :)
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 15:06:23 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Escort strut compatibility
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 10/11/97 03:15:11, [email protected] writes:
<< But, are the V6 capri struts different to the 1600 capri struts?
Are they thicker, shorter, or have different stub axles?
>>
As far as I'm aware, in the UK, V6 Capri struts are the same as the four
cylinder ones. The different ones are the three litre struts, which have a
much larger diameter stub axle.
They also have a different disc/hub arrangement:
The four cyl/2.8 discs have a centre section raised about an inch where it
bolt onto the hub (from the rear). The hub assembly has four cast mounting
lugs at the rear where the disc bolts on. The vented/non vented discs are
interchangable, the only thing is you'll need spacers between the calipers to
fit vents on a four pot car.
The three litre discs have a very tall mounting flange (is there a "proper"
name for this?). The hub is like a thick flat plate, with a centre section
bearing carrier that pokes through the disc, the disc bolting on from the
front.
The upshot of all this is, if you have a three litre Capri, and want to go to
vented discs, you have to change the strut over as well. This can be even
more of a bummer, if you already have uprated three litre type struts. My ol'
V8 had what the guy sold it said were Leda "tarmac struts", which made the
car corner a lot better, so I was loathed to change them (and didn't).
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 1997 08:41:32 -0500
From: [email protected] (David R Wells)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Mercury/Ford Capri?
To: [email protected]
[Larry wrote]
>>The vast majority of US Capris were built in Germany until 1977. Officially
>>we did not have a "1978" Capri, though some leftover '77s were sold as '78s
[J. P. wrote]
>I have a friend who is utterly convinced that he has a 1981 Mercury Capri
>Mark 1.
>Mark 1? '81? Hello? He said something about a special production run in the
>States alone, should I believe him?
He may be confused. In 1981, we were getting the Fox-platform "Mutant Mustang"
which was badged as a Capri. Ask James Thoroski for details. ;-) This was
essentially a Mustang with slightly different sheetmetal and trim. An
interesting car in its own right, (it even has its own racing history, taking
the top 3 places in the Trans-Am series in 1984) but quite a different animal
from the European Capri.
Now, here in the US, the that most of us know and love as the Mk I (1971 to
1974 in the US) was never officially called the Mk I. In fact, the Mk II
(1976-77) was simply called the Capri II in the US. The Fox-Capri (1979-1986)
was not given any "mark" number either, and only a few people called it a
Capri III. (which must really confuse Europeans with Mk IIIs!) Anyhow, given
all this confusion, I suppose that your friend could be forgiven for calling
an '81 Capri a mark anything.
>None were made at all in the States right?
The Fox-Capris were made in the US, but none of the European designed
Capris were ever built here.
And then there were Lincoln Capris (1950-1960, another successful race car
winning the Carrera Panamericana three times from 1952-1954), which were
built in the US, but that's another story.
Larry, we'd better finish our "History of Capris in North America" web page....
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 1997 21:37:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Mercury/Ford Capri?
To: [email protected]
-> Mark 1? '81? Hello? He said something about a special production run
-> in the States alone, should I believe him?
The USA got German-built Capri Mk Is from 1970 through 1974 model
years. There was no US-spec 1975 Capri. Then we got the German-built
"Capri II", which was known as the Mk2 in Europe, from 1976-1977. There
was no US-spec 1978 Capri. Then the "Capri" badge migrated to Mercury's
version of the Mustang, ran concurrently with the Mustang a few years,
and was dropped. Lately we had another "Capri", a Miata-size two seater
import.
Some Capris may have been titled as 1975s or 1978s - a few states
weren't particularly strict about such things.
As far as I know no British-built Capris were sold in the USA. We also
didn't get the Mk3; by then Mercury Division was passing off the
badge-engineered Mustang as a Capri.
US engine selections were 1600 Kent only in the very earliest 1970
models, with the 2000 available later. In 1972 the 2600 V6 was added
and the 1600 was dropped. In 1974 the 2800 replaced the 2600. I have
seen 1974 models with both the 2000 and 2300 fours. The Capri IIs got
the 2800 and the 2300. The 2300 engines were shipped from the USA to
Germany for installation, then back to the USA for sale, as Ford had an
EPA-compliant version of the 2300 but chose not to spend the money to
certify the 2000, which was no longer used by any other US-marketed
Ford.
Ford UK had a "Capri" sedan back in the early '60s. Ford USA had a
Mercury "Capri" option package in the '50s. The model name has hung
around quite a while.
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 1997 10:59:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] Mustang AOD into Capri?
To: [email protected]
-> I've toyed with the idea of dropping a 225hp 302 into my Capri
-> before, but adapting the T-5 into the Mk1 Capri seemed to be an
-> awfully lot of trouble, and I think it involves some cutting of the
-> transmission tunnel which I don't want to do.
The T5 is smaller than the Toploader, which fits fine. So do the GM
Saginaw and Muncie four speeds.
-> don't want to do. Can anyone tell me if the AOD from the V-8 Mustang
-> will "bolt in" to the Capri?
The C4 fits fine, but it's a bit tight at the firewall. The AOD's
bellhousing is a bit bigger than the C4's. It *might* require a little
adjustment to the sheet metal with a BFH, might not, depending on how
you positioned the motor.
-> I thought that the automatic that came in the '73 Capri was a C-4. I
-> was hoping the AOD was similar enough that it would bolt up in place
-> of the C-4. But that would be too easy, wouldn't it?
The Federal Capris use the C3, C4, and Borg-Warner automatics. The AOD
has a different tailshaft spline from the C4, among other things. It's
not a straight bolt-in.
It's not like I haven't done any Capri engine swaps, or anything...
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 08:23:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Windscreen water pump location
To: [email protected]
-> Eh wha? Its a mechanical foot operated pump next to the clutch pedal?
-> 'Never heard of it (not that thats saying anything *at all*)...
All US Federal Capris had the foot pump. The pump itself usually
didn't work long, but the switch, which was a ring around the pump, was
wonderful. Slide a toe over, touch it, and the wipers make one swipe
across the windshield and park. I like it better than most of the
"intermittent" wiper setups on later model cars.
-> So you're goin' round a corner, and instead of hitting the clutch to
-> downshift you hit the water pump and suddenly can't see a damned
-> thing?
It's high and out of the way, very hard to hit in normal driving,
though I've done it while autocrossing. Of course, I've been known to
hit the turn signals and rearview mirror when I get excited behind the
wheel...
-> Sounds real intelligent :)
You need to hear Bill Cosby's "200 MPH" album. "There's a device on an
automobile which exists simply to let you know how STUPID you are... hit
the wrong button and the wipers come on, 'dumb-guy, dumb-guy...'... then
you can't find the button to turn them off. Pretty soon everyone else
is turning *their* wipers on. "Why'd you do that?" "I dunno, the other
guy had his on...""
Date: Mon, 01 Dec 1997 21:44:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri lovelies, ex.Windscreenwaterpump
To: [email protected]
-> Sounds like a damned fine idea to me... what other lil tricks does
-> the Capri have that made it better?
US MkI Capris came in two trim levels - standard, which was pretty well
stripped, and GT, which got the guages, center console, fold-down
armrest in the rear seat (usually), a map light (very nifty, but pretty
well useless), a leather wrapped steering wheel instead of plastic,
front buckets with larger side bolsters, rear window defogger, black
painted rocker panels (under the polished aluminum side trim), black
paint in the taillight recess, and various other adornments. '74 models
seemed to come with a random assortment of features. I believe the
inside door handles were different between standard and GT trim on the
'73-'74 models. The suspensions were the same on all US MkIs, and the
engine selection (V6 or L4) was identical between the standard and GT
trim.
A very few '71 models came with the "hood ornament", as it's listed in
the parts catalog. It's a pot metal casting bolted to the back of the
hood bulge to make it look like a rear-facing scoop.
The pop-out quarter windows were either not available or were optional
on '70-'71 models, as I've seen some with fixed windows.
All radios and air conditioning were dealer installed. A recessed,
crank-back sunroof was optional; I don't know if those were installed in
Cologne or by the dealers. The sunroof fits into a hole cut in the roof
and is faired in with body putty. A few cars had vinyl tops, probably
dealer installed.
'70-'72 models originally came with cardboard trunk liners that kept
stuff from falling in the cavities between the trunk floor and fenders.
I got my first Capri in 1976, and even then the parts were unavailable
from the dealer and just shreds in the junkyards. I use the cavities to
store small items in the trunk.
The screw jack under the quarter panel evidently befuddled the average
American, who was used to a bumper jack. Many early Capris show signs
of having encountered bumper jacks. It will jack the bumper up;
unfortunately the rest of the car doesn't follow.
US Capris all came with day-night inside mirrors, dicky little Hella
backup lights, and windshield washers, required by US law. They all
came with the styled steel wheels in 13" diameter, I forget if they were
5 or 5-1/2" wide now. All came with power brakes. I don't know if this
was universal for non-Federal Capris or if it was needed to meet the
Federal brake pedal pressure specifications. The "bumperettes" or
"overriders" on the bumpers were on all US Capris prior to '74. I've
seen pictures of the German models without them, which looked a lot
better.
The neatest things about the Capri to me are the wiper switch on the
floor, which I find quite useful, and the flow-through ventilation,
which passes sand, bugs, and snowflakes right into the cockpit,
reminding me of a motorcycle. The doors are big and the driving
position is excellent.
The worst things are the sunvisors, which I normally fix by ripping
them loose and throwing them out the window, and the shifters, which
were pot metal pieces of trash. And the driveshafts, which were
"non-serviceable, replace-as-assembly" items that were $361.40, except
they've been unavailable for over a decade.
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 08:12:54 +0800 (WST)
From: Volker Rehbock
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri lovelies, ex.Windscreenwaterpump
To: [email protected]
> -> Sounds like a damned fine idea to me... what other lil tricks does
> -> the Capri have that made it better?
>
> The screw jack under the quarter panel evidently befuddled the average
> American, who was used to a bumper jack. Many early Capris show signs
> of having encountered bumper jacks. It will jack the bumper up;
> unfortunately the rest of the car doesn't follow.
>
I have one of these screw jacks but could never figure our where exactly
it is meant to be stored in the car. Was there some kind of bracket some-
where in the boot for it? I've packed the boot tightly with cardboard
boxes to keeps the groceries and tools from flying around and the jack
is in one of them...
> US Capris all came with day-night inside mirrors, dicky little Hella
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Were these also available on UK models? My car didn't come with the
day-night type mirror and the original mirror has cracked and crumbled
from exposure to the sun anyhow (threw it away years ago...).
> The neatest things about the Capri to me are the wiper switch on the
> floor, which I find quite useful, and the flow-through ventilation,
> which passes sand, bugs, and snowflakes right into the cockpit,
> reminding me of a motorcycle. The doors are big and the driving
> position is excellent.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Must agree here. Of all the cars we've had, the Capri has the most
comfortable driving position.
>
> The worst things are the sunvisors, which I normally fix by ripping
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What makes you say that? Although mine are torn and tattered, they
still work well and came in very useful. I guess it also depends
on your size. They wouldn't be much use if you're tall enough (like
the visors on our Falcon which seem to be useful only for midgets...).
> them loose and throwing them out the window, and the shifters, which
> were pot metal pieces of trash. And the driveshafts, which were
> "non-serviceable, replace-as-assembly" items that were $361.40, except
> they've been unavailable for over a decade.
>
Never heard of problems with the driveshafts before...
Date: Tue, 02 Dec 1997 22:18:54 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri lovelies, ex.Windscreenwaterpump
To: [email protected]
Dave Williams wrote:
> The pop-out quarter windows were either not available or were optional
> on '70-'71 models, as I've seen some with fixed windows.
Interesting. I've never seen a Mk1 with fixed rear windows, but I once had
a Capri II with them.
> '70-'72 models originally came with cardboard trunk liners that kept
> stuff from falling in the cavities between the trunk floor and fenders.
..
Another rarity is the cardboard splash shield that went behind the front
valence on some pre-facelift Mk1 Capris. My '71 Capri had one, but it
disappeared the first time I washed the car...
> US Capris all ...
> came with the styled steel wheels in 13" diameter, I forget if they were
> 5 or 5-1/2" wide now.
The steel wheels were all 5". The aluminum wheels used on the Capri II Ghia
were 5-1/2".
> The worst things ... and the shifters, which
> were pot metal pieces of trash.
Always carry a spare!
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 06:53:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri lovelies, ex.Windscreenwaterpump
To: [email protected]
-> Another rarity is the cardboard splash shield that went behind the
-> front valence on some pre-facelift Mk1 Capris. My '71 Capri had one,
Lordy, I'd forgotten about that. That's what those two mysterious
sheet metal flanges were for on the sides of the frame rails ahead of
the crossmember.
-> disappeared the first time I washed the car...
One of my 12 Capris had a few bits of cardboard still hanging down when
I got it. Otherwise, they'd all vanished before I even got the cars.
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 06:10:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri lovelies, ex.Windscreenwaterpump
To: [email protected]
-> Then there is my set up, as I bought the car; standard rear glass,
-> with pop-out latches left in the car! The window is solid, Ford
-> glass. What holds my rear windows in? Why flat sheet tin of course?
-> The is nothing else there on the front, and the rear is still
-> "hinged" (snicker
The early MK1s came with latches glued to the inside of the glass.
Diameter was about 3/4 inch on the adhesive surface, evidently far too
small to provide a good grip. To top it off, the adhesive used was
apparently not waterproof; most failures seemed to come shortly after
the windows were left open overnight or in the rain.
Since the sheet metal front hinge was also glued on, the failure mode
was for the window to simply fall off onto the ground. This usually
didn't hurt the window much, but seems to be the primary reason you used
to see so many MK1s with the windows stuck back in with various sealers.
*Some* '72s had the bolt through windows, *most* '73s, and all '74s
I've paid attention to. The bolt through was the service replacement,
so if an owner popped for a new window from the dealer, that's what he'd
get, which was how you'd see one bolt-through and one glued window on
the same car. Then, as the bolt-throughs started hitting the junkyards,
most knowledgeable Capri owners would snag a pair to retrofit to their
early cars.
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 11:37:33 -0600
From: Barry
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Shifters
To: "David J. Ronnebaum"
David,
The base plate of the shifter is made from too soft of a metal. Over
time the constant push and pull of the lever against the sides of the
opening pushes them out of shape and in a bad case can crack and break the
metal. It is worse if you have lost the little plastic (rubber) piece that
fits around the shaft to prevent metal to metal contact between the lever
and its opening. I've replaced one or two because of that and the recall on
the shift lever itself (they used to break at the most inconvenient spot).
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 21:50:11 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Shifters
To: "David J. Ronnebaum" ,
Dave Ronnebaum wrote:
> I have been hearing lately from the list that the shifters in manual
trans
> Capris are junk. Is this true? Does this apply to mk1 Federal Capris?
> What exactly is wrong with them, and what can be done about it? ...
Unfortunately the shifters on "Federal" Capris are among the worst
offenders. The main problem is that there is a weak spot in the shaft just
above the pivot. For some reason they bent the shaft slightly, and this
evidently causes the problem. I've broken off 3 or 4 with my rather
enthusiastic shifting.
The other problem is caused by the external shift linkages used on
"Federal" Capris. When you shift from 1st to 2nd, or 3rd to 4th, the
linkage rod can flex, so it doesn't shift properly until the rod springs
back into position. This doesn't happen when shifting from 2nd to 3rd,
because the rod is under tension instead of compression.
Someone in the Capri Club of Chicago used to make a kit that fixed both of
these problems, but I don't think it is available anymore. I can check on
it if you're interested. The shifter was virtually indestructible, but it
also required a lot of force to change gears.
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 11:52:28 -0500
From: Joseph Piernock
Subject: [capri-list] For what it's worth: Springs
To: [email protected]
I live in Pennsylvania which is a moderately hilly area with many "swoopy,"
twisty, unpredictable roads. As a result, I resist lowering my cars at
all, especially my Capri. The exhaust always hits something, and the
suspension repeatedly hits the bump stops on tougher roads.
I love the following setup:
Front springs: stock height, variable rate coils that start at 25% stiffer
than stock and increase to 40% stiffer than stock at full compression, and
Rear springs: stock height, custom 4 leaf springs that are 25% stiffer than
stock.
This arrangement allows the car to land smoothly after taking a little air
over sharply inclined bridges and railroad crossings. It doesn't slam into
the bump stops like stock. I admit that the ride in the rear seat is a bit
jiggley (drinking coffee is not pleasant back there), but the front is
fine. A CD player should have no problems. The car is not the least bit
"tippy" in corners and seems better controlled under braking because of
less front-end dive.
Instead of lowering on the Street, I recommend using more performance
minded shocks, anti-sway bars and bushings to improve handling. If your
roads are like mine, your average speed through a given section will
probably be higher since you will not be forced to nurse the car through
the tougher stretches. However, if your roads are like California or
Texas, lower that baby!
Date: Mon, 08 Dec 1997 17:50:41 -0500 (EST)
From: LeeSonic
Subject: Re: [capri-list] springs.....
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 08/12/97 19:47:14, [email protected] writes:
<< What are the best springs and damper combination I can use to tighten up
the handling of the car? I also want to lower it a bit but put 15 inch alloys
on... How much can I safely lower it?
Please bear in mind that the ride cannot be too harsh or the cd player will
keep on jumping and skipping.. >>
I run 2.8i single leaves on the back of mine, stock height (which I think is
about an inch lower than other standard Capris), with Spax gas adjustables set
to three clicks, and two inch lowered 170lb front springs with Spax adjustable
strut inserts, again on three clicks. This set up is stiff (rides like a
bowling ball falling down a flight of stairs), but the car corners like it's
on rails, on decent roads anyway. But where are there any decent roads in
London? I went to Scotland a couple of months ago, and the road surfaces up
there were SO good, I wish I'd taken the Capri. The beauty is, you can soften
the suspension if you want to.
This is how the suspension used to be set up, but since one of my front spings
snapped, I got some today, but I'm not sure of the poundage. Also, I'm not
sure if my front inserts haven't taken a pounding because of the broken
spring. Thing is, this close to Christmas I'm a bit strapped for cash, so if
the struts have gone, then it's up to Tickover to get some second hand ones.
At the end of the day, it all comes down to what you want to pay. If you've
got loads of money, go for adjustable shocks all round, and new springs. If
not, a decent second-hand set of rear springs and shocks, plus the front
springs and struts from a 2.8 Injection Capri should make yours handle much
better. The Injection was the last of the line, and Ford really had got to
grips with getting the most out of the Capris "basic" suspension. So much so,
when tested against the new (then) Sierra XR4i, with it's modern independent
rear suspension, and wishbones at the front, the testers still preferred the
Capri.
As for your CD player skipping, I found with mine, it only started skipping
badly when the front struts were on their way out and the front of the car
wallowed. Occasionally it gets caught out, but it's very rare. My CD player is
a Kenwood 601, quite an old one, the more modern ones have a shock memory like
the CD Walkmans. Anybody want to talk about In Car Entertainment (the audio
variety) in their Capris, either on or off the list?
15" alloys? Nah, you don't want those, you want a nice set of 7" x 13"
Compomotive CX's I'm trying to sell.
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 08:24:04 -0500
From: [email protected] (David R Wells)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] gear shift
To: [email protected]
>I have seen, (and raced) one 74 Mk1 w/a hurst shifter. It was not an easy
>conversion, nor was it pretty. I personally didn,t care for the location
>either. If interested, I could pursue follow up info.
>If anyone knows of any company that makes a direct replacement shifter
>assembly, I would like to find out about them.
I own a '74 Mk 1 with a Hurst shifter. Agreed, it's not the prettiest
conversion around. It's also kind of stiff & notchy. On the other hand,
the throws are admirably short, and the shifter itself is very robust.
I didn't install it. The previous owner did. Chas Long, an ex-Ferrari mechanic
who at last word was working on Indy Lites cars, used to own my Blue Beast,
and he designed the conversion, and in fact used to sell conversion kits.
I doubt he sells them anymore, but he might still remember how it was done.
You can probably contact him through the Capri Club of Chicago. If you're
a member, you've got his phone number. I think he lives in Ohio now.
Date: Tue, 16 Dec 1997 10:49:58 -0500
From: Joseph Piernock
Subject: [capri-list] "Hurst" Capri Mk 1 Shifter Kit
To: [email protected]
I have an un-installed "Chas Long" Hurst shifter kit for a Mk 1. (With
instructions, no less!!)
He used a custom baseplate to mount a Hurst "Street Super Shifter" assembly
to the floor. He used Hurst #391-7535 which was rumored to be for some
Chrysler application. Transferred to the smaller scale of a Capri, it is
so robust that it seems like the sort of shifter Conan would use.
The ends of the Hurst shift levers were cut off, and Chas supplied metal
bar stock to weld in their place. Chas gave instructions on where to drill
new holes in these lengthened Hurst shifter arms to engage the standard
Capri shift rods. There is nothing here that anyone with a welder couldn't
fabicate themselves. Cutting the baseplate from 1/4" steel stock is the
toughest part.
Date: Fri, 19 Dec 1997 22:34:57 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Zakspeed
To: Peter Widelund , [email protected]
Peter Widelund wrote:
> Is there anybody out there who has some information regarding the
> Zakspeed Capri Turbo made in Germany sometime around 1980 I think.
There are two kinds of Zakspeed Capri: The lightweight turbocharged Group 5
race cars that raced in Europe from 1978 to 1981; and a turbocharged road
car sold primarily in Germany in the early 1980s (1983 IIRC). The Group 5
race cars were hairy fire-breathing monsters, powered by either a 500 HP
1.4 liter DOHC 4 cylinder engine or a 600 HP 1.7 liter DOHC 4 cylinder
engine. Klaus Ludwig won the 1981 German Racing Championship in a 1.4 liter
Zakspeed Capri. FIA abolished Group 5 after 1981, so the Zakspeed Capri
went to the USA and with minor changes became the "IMSA Mustang". The
Zakspeed Capri engine was later produced in a 1.5 liter version for Formula
1, but unfortunately Zakspeed never developed an effective F1 chassis.
The roadgoing Zakspeed Capri was basically a turbocharged version of the
European Mk3 Capri 2.8i. The engine was good for about 190 HP. I don't
think very many were produced.
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 20:52:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] Mk1 Strut Inserts
To: [email protected]
-> Are the rebuildable strut inserts in the Mk 1 Capri of any use?
-> What sort of fluid (non special-strut type) could I put in them? I
-> was thinking that higher viscosity fluid may result in stiffer
-> shocks.
I was able to go up to 10w motorcycle shock oil without trouble.
Automatic transmission fluid also worked. Anything of higher viscosity,
say 20w motor oil, and the pop-off valves inside the strut would open on
compression and the struts were essentially rebound-only.
I always meant to play around with the valves, but never got around to
it. After a disastrous and expensive mistake with Konis I went to KYB
inserts and have been reasonably satisfied with the results.
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 16:23:28 -0500
From: Mark Wilson
Subject: [capri-list] Capri Mk. I and II inner wheel bearings
To: [email protected]
This is primarily aimed at North American folks. Months ago
there was some conversation about front inner wheel bearings
being hard to find or too expensive. I just liberated a small
quantity from a warehouse at a pretty good price. If you are
interested, please get in touch with me, preferrably at my
home account:
[email protected]
Also, for the non-North American Capri audience, years ago
I found several British-published Capri manuals on Mk. I
2000cc V-4 and 3000cc V-6 cars. Since we never got them in
the U.S., I'm not sure how I ended up with the books. I
recently found homes for them in Australia, at pretty
decent prices, I think. I've found four or five more, but
would like to know I can find homes for some of them before
I sit on them for another 10 to 20 years. If you are in
Great Britain, Australia, New Zealand, or other domains
where the Ford of England V-engined Capris ended up, and you'd
like one of these books, please let me know. They are hard-
covered InterEurope manuals, I believe.
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:11:33 +0000
From: Christian John Sumner
Subject: [capri-list] High Ratio Power steering rack
To: [email protected]
I recently was asking about having my power steering rack (which is leaking)
rebuilt with only 2.5 turns lock to lock.
This morning I rang a rebuild place. I was advised that the high ration
racks (non-power ones) are machined down, and are much less strong. This
is a prime consideration for me, as I'm a cheap git. So I've decided to just
have a standard replacement.
For anyone interested, this place will rebuild a rack, and fit it for
110+VAT - drive in drive out job. Compare this to the CCI, who sell
a reconditioned rack for 116stlg, + a 50stlg surcharge until you
return the old one.
Yet again, numbers at the ol' CCI work in mysterious ways. Good vlaue for
members ..... mmmmm.....
Chris Sumner
1985 2.8i Special
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 23:46:34 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: [capri-list] Re: (capri-list)Publicity
To: Capri-list
John Wilson wrote:
> I was just looking thru some car magazines the other day and started
> thinking how I could get some major car magazine ... to print a feature
on the Ford Capri. ...
About 18 months ago we (Dave W., Bev C., me) heard from a writer from
European Car (I think) magazine who was working on a Capri article. We sent
him some information, but we never heard anything more. Does anyone get
this magazine, and did the article ever run?
On a related topic J.P. Hindin wrote:
> There wasn't an article printed on them when they came out? I went through
> all my Dads R&Ts ('67 - '71) and couldn't find a single Capri! I was most
> pissed off, I woulda thought they'd got to the Yanks at least.
The major car magazines ran quite a few Capri articles in the '70s and
'80s. Try these issues:
R&T Sep 70 Capri 1600 Plus 50
R&T Feb 71 Capri 2000
MT Apr 71 Capri 2000 (comparison w/ Opel 1900)
R&T Oct 71 Capri 2000 (comparison w/ Opel 1900 and Toyota Celica)
R&T Dec 71 Ford Capri RS-2600 (German model)
C&D Jan 72 Capri 2600
R&T Mar 72 Capri 2600
MT Apr 74 Ford Capri II 3.0 (British model?)
R&T Sep 74 Ferguson Formula Capri 2600 4 wheel drive
MT Jun 75 Capri II 2.8 (comparison w/Mercury Bobcat, Pontiac
Astre, AMC Pacer X?)
R&T Jul 75 Capri II 2.8
MT Oct 75 Capri II 2.8S (comparison w/Chevrolet-Cosworth Vega)
R&T Sep 76 Chastain Capri II 2.8 S/3
R&T Aug 78 "Fox" Capri
MT Mar 81 "Fox" Capri RS 3.3 liter
C&D Oct 81 1982 "Fox" Capri RS 5.0 liter
R&T Jul 83 1972-77 Capri 2600/2800 used car guide
R&T Apr 83 "Fox" Capri RS 5.0 (comparison w/many cars)
AW 25 Nov 96 1972 Capri RS-2600 (German model)
AW = Auto Week
C&D = Car & Driver
MT = Motor Trend
R&T = Road & Track
R&T also ran articles on the 1969 British Capri; the 1970 "Federal" Capri
1600, and the European 1974 Capri II. Unfortunately I don't know the exact
issues. If anyone knows of other Capri articles, please let me know.
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:54:37 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Bad steering rack on MkI V6
To: [email protected]
Craig wrote:
> Well, I found the cause of the dodgy steering on my '72 V6. :( The
> steering rack is upgefucked. .... Does anyone know if the
> Ford factory service kit for the rack is still available? Dave Williams,
> any idea of a workable substitute?
The racks for '69-72 Capris are different from those used on the '73-on
cars, and unfortunately in the USA the early type are almost impossible to
obtain. The same goes for rebuild kits. Norm "Team Blitz" Murdock is
probably your best bet. It is possible to convert to the '73-on rack, but
you have to change most of the front suspension and IIRC the steering
column too.
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:24:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: [capri-list] Bad steering rack on MkI V6
To: [email protected]
-> housing *gone*. I hope I can find a replacement. Does anyone know
-> if the Ford factory service kit for the rack is still available?
-> Dave Williams, any idea of a workable substitute?
I used to have a supply of them; I used the last one last year when
overhauling the rack. The bushings only last a year or two around here.
Fortunately, it's just a plastic bushing - some cheap crap, not even
nylon. It's fairly lightly loaded, which is the only reason it works at
all. This means you can measure the housing and the rack and fabricate
a new bushing out of damned near anything at all, metal or plastic.
Ford uses little push-tabs that are supposed to hold the bushing in; a
couple of small screws would do as well.
A chunk of nylon or brass and a lathe would work, but you could use PVC
pipe, a drill, and a file if you needed to.
-> On the bright side, I have a new pair of rack mount bushings direct
-> from the UK, the original Ford freeze-dried-booger parts.
I welded feet to the bottom of my rack, bolted it down solid, and never
had to worry about rack bushings again. I put the jellied rubber and
U-clamps back on so I wouldn't get protectest in Street Prepared. You
couldn't see the solid mounts under the stock brackets.
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 22:40:00 -0500
From: [email protected] (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Bad steering rack on MkI V6
To: [email protected]
-> The racks for '69-72 Capris are different from those used on the
-> '73-on cars, and unfortunately in the USA the early type are almost
-> impossible to obtain. The same goes for rebuild kits.
???
I've freely interchanged racks between my various '70-'74 Capris with
no trouble at all, using the same Ford rebuild parts in all of them,
until my supply of NOS parts ran out.
-> probably your best bet. It is possible to convert to the '73-on rack,
-> but you have to change most of the front suspension and IIRC the
-> steering column too.
Uh, no. It all interchanges. So do the steering columns - the only
difference between a '71 column and a '73 column is the ignition switch,
which bolts on and can be swapped out.
The only difference I can think of offhand between the early and late
MKIs is the diameter of the hole in the top strut mount's rubber
bushing. The later cars had a larger diameter shaft where it went
through the bushing, and a larger diameter sleeve in the bushing.
That's why most aftermarket struts have a small diameter shaft and you
have to use one of the little sleeves they provide to make it fit the
late bushing.
Crossmembers, steering columns, strut housings, steering arms, racks,
rack bushings, internal rack parts, boots, springs, and brakes are
identical on US-Federal MkIs, 1970-1974. Some '74s used brake rotors
with a larger stud diameter and odd threads, but not all of them. The
rotor still interchanges as long as you have the proper lug nuts.
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 21:02:18 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Bad steering rack on MkI V6
To: [email protected]
I wrote:
> -> The racks for '69-72 Capris are different from those used on the
> -> '73-on cars, ...
Dave Williams replied:
> ???
>
> I've freely interchanged racks between my various '70-'74 Capris with
> no trouble at all, ...
The through-'72 and '73-on racks have different part numbers. I ran into
this about 10 yrs ago when I had to find a replacement rack for my '72
"Rustmobile". Plenty of new & rebuilt '73 racks out there, but very few
'72s. My local parts pushers couldn't even come up with a rebuild kit. Ford
finally managed to track down a '72 rack for me, and they said that they
only had 7 left in the USA.
IIRC the early type have English sizes/thread while the later type are
metric. I'll have to dig through my collection of old parts to find out for
sure. The steering coupler/universal joint on the through-'72 cars is also
different. I thought they even changed the spline pattern but I could be
wrong about this.
The '73-on cars have all metric front suspensions.
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 19:16:55 +0800
From: Fiona Young
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Bad steering rack on MkI V6
To: Lawrence Wells
Larry
Dave is correct re. rack fitting.Internally they changed a few times
but as a bolt on unit they all remained the same,including the coupling
bar spline.
Regards Kevin
Capri Clinic
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 19:14:23 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Brightening up Mk1 dashboard lights
To: [email protected]
Hi all!
Just finished (well, nearly) messing about with the dashboard on my Mk1, and
it's looking good. The facia panel I re-covered in some wood effect film made
by a company called Foliatech, they do the carbon fibre effect film as well.
As for making the dashboard lights brighter, here's how you do it :
1) Replace all the existing bulbs with 5w ones.
2) Take apart the dashboard, and the instrument cluster, and remove the pieces
of blue plastic film from over the instrument illumination bulbs. Don't throw
these away yet!
3) The high beam warning indicator light has got to be the dimest yet. If you
carefully prise the piece of dark blue film from the back of the facia, you'll
see why. This is too dark even for a 100w house light to shine through, so how
a 2w standard interior car bulb will is expected to work, I don't know. After
carefully prising this off, use it as a template to make another one from the
slightly lighter blue film you removed in step 2. To fix this on, I used a
screwdriver to hold it down over the two plastic lugs on the rear of the
facia, and melted the plastic over with a soldering iron.
4) While you have the intrument cluster apart, you will notice a piece of
metal that covers the rev counter and the speedo. the rear of this is sprayed
matt black in places, very good for light reflection (not!). Paint of this,
using a silver Tamiya paint marker (available from model shops), to paint the
rear of this to aid light reflection.
5) Do the same with the Tamiya pen to those daft pieces of cardboard tube that
transmit the light from the high beam, indicator, and ignition warning lights.
I did all these today, and the dashboard lights are really bright now. If
anything, the high beam light is a little too bright, maybe I'll put the 2w
bulb back in.
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 19:14:24 -0500 (EST)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Mk1 Rev Counter
To: [email protected]
Hi again!
I think I've solved the problem of why the rev counter on my Mk1 is not
working.
On the Mk1 facelifts, Mk2s and Mk3s, the rev counter has three terminals :
live, earth, and a feed from the ignition coil/points. No problems here
really.
On the pre-facelifts, as I said previously, there is a live connection, and a
weird binding post to which a loop of wire is clamped to via a nylon bush. The
earth for the rev counter is taken thorugh the metal instrument cluster.
Upon taking the revcounter apart, I found out how it works. Behind the binding
post where the loop of wire sits, there is a coil. This is mounted on a U
shaped core made of a strip of steel, the two ends of the "U" stick out either
side of the binding post. What I should have as well as the nylon bush, is
another piece of steel strip to join the two ends of the "U" together to
complete the magnetic circuit. You see, what the rev counter does, is pick up
the pulses in this loop of wire in the coil behind. Without the other piece to
complete the magnetic circuit, it can't do this.
Date: Sat, 07 Feb 1998 23:27:16 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Revcounter Help!
To: [email protected]
Lee wrote:
> Can anybody shed any light on how the rev counter works on a Mk1
pre-facelift
> (european, not fox mustang style) Capri, mine is a 1970 1300GT. ...
> What puzzles me is there is no electrical connection to this binding
post. If
> you break the white wire at either bullet connector, the engine cuts out.
The tachometer/rev counter in the pre-facelift Capri is current triggered,
unlike the 1973-on unit which is voltage triggered. IIRC the current
triggered tach is wired in series with the ignition coil's primary (12V)
side; if you break the connection to the tach you interrupt the current
through the coil, so the engine cuts out. I'll dig out my wiring diagrams
to verify this.
In a separate message Lee wrote:
> Upon taking the revcounter apart, I found out how it works. Behind the
binding
> post where the loop of wire sits, there is a coil. This is mounted on a U
> shaped core made of a strip of steel, the two ends of the "U" stick out
either
> side of the binding post. What I should have as well as the nylon bush,
is
> another piece of steel strip to join the two ends of the "U" together to
> complete the magnetic circuit. You see, what the rev counter does, is
pick up
> the pulses in this loop of wire in the coil behind. Without the other
piece to
> complete the magnetic circuit, it can't do this.
I'm not quite sure I'm visualizing it correctly. A picture would be worth a
thousand words - could you send one? I thought they used a current
transformer to drive the electronics inside the tach, but I've never taken
one of the early ones apart so I may be completely wrong.
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 1998 18:47:20 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 63 Capri GT COSWORTH
To: [email protected], [email protected]
Michael wrote:
> Newguy here. Anybody know anything about My Capri: I found it in San Jose Ca.
> 20 years ago. It has a Cosworth Mk 9 motor, CR box, F&R ARBs, Lotus wheels,
> uprated suspension, Steering wheel with CABCs signature etc. ...
MEOW?????
I have more questions than answers, at least for now.
Your car is a 1963 Capri GT? These cars are very rare in the USA - only
about 1400 1962-64 British Capris were imported.
Is a Cosworth Mk9 related to the 1600cc BDA?
Could it possibly be a Lotus twin cam engine rather than a Cosworth? Lotus
suspension/Cosworth engine would be a pretty unusual combination.
A very small number of early 1969 Capris were built with Cosworth BDA's as
press demos. As far as I know they were all RHD British models.
The ID plate under the hood will tell you something about how the car
started its life. It will give you the year and month of production, and
the original engine/transmission/rear axle codes. If the car was modified
by an independent tuner these won't tell you much about how the car got the
way it is now, though. The "Identify" link on the Capri Club of Chicago web
site (http://www.niagara.com/~bevc/ccc.htm) explains how to decypher the
codes commonly found on 1970-77 US Capris. If your car has different codes
(this is very likely), e-mail them to me and I'll try to figure them out.
Date: Thu, 26 Feb 1998 23:08:50 +0100
From: erreelle
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Instrument testing.. any suggestions?
To: [email protected]
> The gauges on Mk1's (and all Capris come 2 think of it) work by a little
metal
> strip (probably copper, due to it's expansion rate when heated)
surrounded by
> a coil of wire, which is then attached to the needle. The coil of wire
heats
> up in response to the sender output, the strip expands, and the needle
moves
> up the dial. A multimeter can be used to check the continuity of the
coil, I
> tested my Mk3 ones using a 6 volt mains adaptor. If you're not too sure,
try
> using a variable power source, or failing that, just keep connecting
torch
> (flashlight) batteries in series. This will check they work, not how
accurate
> they are. If someone knows how to do this, I'd be very interested.
Well, that is what Haynes says on the UK Ford Capri 1300 & 1600 ohv book
(pg.191), both for Fuel level & Water Temp:
"If the gauges are not operating, check the continuity of the circuit by
removing the wirefrom the sender unit and connecting a voltmeter between
the sender wire and the earth. With the ignition switched on, there should
be a 12V supply to the sender unit.
If the gauges operate, but their indications are suspect, connect a 10 ohm
5 watt resistor between the sender unit wire and earth. There are two
calibration dots toward the upper end of the instrument scale and the
pointer should be between these dots when the ignition is switched on.
Repeat the test with a 73 ohm 5 watt resistor in place of the 10 ohm one,
and check that the pointer is between the calibration dots at the lower end
of the instrument scale. "
Date: Sun, 01 Mar 1998 21:45:22 -0500
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Instrument testing.. any suggestions?
To: [email protected]
[email protected] wrote:
> > << ... '69 Capri 1600GT ... I ... have a question about the best way
to test the
> > Fuel and Temperature gauges on the 6 gauge instrument panel. ...
Lee Shepherd replied:
> > The gauges ... work by a little metal
> > strip ... surrounded by
> > a coil of wire, which is then attached to the needle. The coil of wire
heats
> > up in response to the sender output, the strip expands, and the needle
moves
> > up the dial. ... I
> > tested my Mk3 ones using a 6 volt mains adaptor. ...
Les Sharp added:
> A word of warning here guys. The gauges should have a MOSFET type of
voltage
> regulator in the circuit so your gas level stays the same whether your
lights are
> on or off. ... Reversing polarity through the MOSFET
> will fry it and these are a special Ford item, unobtainium, like their
famous
> 5-1/2 sided bolts etc. etc. ...
Pre-facelift Mk1 Capris (1969-72) use an electromechanical chopper instead
of a voltage regulator. It switches the 12V power to the gauges on and off
a few times per second, varying the "on" and "off" times to give an average
of around 5-6 volts. Since the gauges respond very slowly you never notice
that the voltage is actually switching.
"Facelift" Mk1 Capris and all Mk2 Capris use a standard LM78xx series
bipolar regulator, IIRC an LM7805. If you fry an instrument voltage
regulator and can't get another one, just cut open the can, replace the
LM78xx regulator chip, and close the can back up. In the USA they're
available from Radio Shack and many mail order electronics houses. Be sure
to get one in the original TO-220 package; the smaller packages can't
handle the power!
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 22:17:30 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] mk1 front wings
To: [email protected]
Pierre Nicolay wrote:
> I will shortly be looking for mk1 front wings ...
There is at least one supplier in the UK, and possibly two. Ex-Pressed
Steel Panels, Ickornshaw Mill, Cowling, Nr. Keighley, West Yorkshire BD22
0DB sells a wide variety of body and structural sheet metal for the Capri.
I have not used their parts myself, but I've heard that they are very good.
Their fax number is (international dialing code) + 44 (0)535 636977.
Another possibility is LMC Panels, but they might have gone out of
business. They are not listed in the telephone directory on
www.infospace.com.....
> The car I'm looking at right now is a 72, with 55.000 one-lady-owner
miles,
> but the front wings are totally rotten, as well as metal panel that's
> directly above the rear wheel (don't know what it's called in English).
In the USA we usually call it the rear wheel arch. The last Ex-Pressed
Steel Panels price list I have (from early 1995) shows large and small arch
repair panels for 33 and 22 pounds, respectively.
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 1998 23:12:18 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] front suspension
To: [email protected]
Gustaf "Pinto" Ulander wrote:
> A couple of friends in the Capri Club of Sweden is talking about
converting
> the single lower wisbone to an A-arm structure, by fabricating a "link"
> that would run from the roll-bar pickup-point on the wishbone rearwards
to
> the chassi-rail. They (and so do I) think that this might help.
The early "lightweight" RS 2600 had links like this. I think they were
optional on later RS 2600 too.
There were special lower control arms with extra mounting points. The link
(described as a "compression strut") went through the hole where the
antiroll bar would normally mount, and the antiroll bar attached to the new
mounting points. For whatever it's worth the numbers are:
Arm assembly RH: Finis no. 9050041, no part number.
Arm assembly LH: Finis no. 9050042, no part number.
Sliding joint assembly (used on antiroll bar ends): Finis no. 9050043, no
part number.
Compression strut assembly: Finis no. 9050044, no part number
Bracket, compression strut (attaches to chassis), RH: Finis no. 9050049, no
part number
Bracket, compression strut, LH: Finis no. 9050050, no part number
Reinforcement panel (underneath bracket), LH/RH: Finis no. 9050884, no part
number
Thrust washer (for compression strut end, 2 per side): Finis no. 1411933,
part no. 3014E 3A275 B
Spacer (for compression strut end): Finis no. 1404306, part no. 3014E 5K485
B
Bushing, rubber (for compression strut end): Finis no. 1421591, part no.
3014E 5493 D
Nut, castle (for compression strut end): Finis no. 1419279, part no. 33 987
S8
If anyone is interested I can scan the drawing in the parts book.
Most likely all of this stuff is made of pure Unobtainium....
One word of caution: I've heard rumors that the struts put some pretty
serious forces into the chassis rail, which can cause the welds to the
floorpan to fail. This might only apply to race cars, though.
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 11:39:52 +1300
From: PAGen
Subject: Re: [capri-list] front suspension
To: [email protected]
Gustaf wrote:
>
>A couple of friends in the Capri Club of Sweden is talking about converting
>the single lower wisbone to an A-arm structure, by fabricating a "link"
>that would run from the roll-bar pickup-point on the wishbone rearwards to
>the chassi-rail. They (and so do I) think that this might help.
>
The first Escorts had this link for probably this reason. Then Ford (in its
infinite wisdom) discarded it. However, many racers have retrofitted this
link to Escorts and Capris to improve the location of the TCA and strut.
The ones I have seen use a U section to bolt to the sway bar nut then a
short adjustable rod back to a U bolted to the chassis about a similar
distance as the length of the sway bar arm. You wouldn't want too much
vertical suspension movement with this setup.
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1998 20:32:30 -0700
From: Bill & Lorraine Thompson
Subject: [capri-list] Capri Shimmy
To: "[email protected]" , [email protected]
I was the writer for the stabilisor bar clamping idea. Years ago I owned a
nice '73 2600 automatic which had a horrific shimmy when braking. Everything
was kosher throughout the suspension system (though I did not check brake
rotor trueness, probably WERE warped some) but I noticed the stabilisor bar
was polished near the bushings. Being nearly at wits end on this problem, I
exper-imentally clamped the heater hose sections on to see if it helped.
Voila! No more shimmy, though the steering wheel trembled slightly at 55 mph
braking. Since my present five Capris have never had a shimmy problem
(possibly due to the 1" bars??), I have never duplicated the situation. One
other idea I have is the steering bushings (where the gear is clamped onto the
Xmember). You might try Dobi's aluminum steering rack bushings- much better
than those mushy rubber bushes. I think their address is 320-F Thor Place,
Brea CA . A "shade-tree" equivalent is to wrap a leather belt around several
times then clamp the hell out of it-be sure to double-nut it. It may sound
weird, but at least leather handles motor oil better than rubber!
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 1998 21:56:45 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] dimmer
To: [email protected]
Romolo wrote:
<< I just replaced the quadra headlamps of my MK1 with a couple of twin
circular ones. ... I have now a problem: all the four units are fitted with H1
55 Watt lamps (single coil), so that I have headlamp short beam on the
external two, and headlamps long beam in the internal two, and......no city
lights.
I considered several solutions to obtain city lamps ... but my favourite
should be to "dim" the external short beam headlamps, so that you have dimmed
voltage supply when you select city lights, and full power when you switch on
the headlamps, all on the same lamp.
... I think it should be possible to design an easy and cheap dimmer circuit
around a IC 555, but I'm not able to manage the power required by the two
lamps. >>
Anyone has a circuit suitable for ? >>
You're thinking along the right lines, but as usual the devil is in the
details...
The simplest way to do it would be to configure the 555 as an astable
multivibrator (you should be able to find the circuit in any 555 spec
sheet), selecting the duty cycle to give the desired brightness. Use the
output of the 555 to drive the gate of a *BIG* N channel power FET
(something rated for at least 15 amps at 40 volts, preferrably in a TO-3
metal package). Connect the FET's source lead to ground and the drain lead
to the bulb's ground lead. Now for the tricky part: In order to get full
brightness you'll need either a relay or a second *BIG* power FET, because
you can't get the 555's output anywhere near 100% duty cycle. Wire the
relay/second FET so it bypasses the first FET when you switch the headlamps
on.
Another messy bit: Typically metal package power FET's have the drain tied
to the case, so you can't mount the FET directly to any metal part of the
car. Be sure to use insulators.
Date: Sat, 11 Apr 1998 13:15:02 -0700
From: DARIN&SINDI
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Front suspension,
To: [email protected], [email protected]
every capri that has had a shake that i have worked on has usually been
from bent crossmembers usually its where the control arm meets the
crossmember when its bent it leaves a small space between the two when you
aply the brakes it creates a shudder in that space. the first thin that i
would look at is the control arm bolt has it been bent or is there slack on
the crossmember. i've fixed more than one capri by retorking that bolt and
making sure that if i use nylon bushings that i put thread locker on the
bolt so it doesn't work loose. the shake can happen when the brakes are
applied or when speeding up. and alot of the time around 30mph sound
familliar. the other thing is if your tire has been worn on the inside you
won't loose the shake until you put a new one on. also if you have a sticky
caliper and a loose control arm when youm apply the brakes that side with
both symptoms can just about brake your wrist. how many people ave power
steering and have this problem not many. because the rack is mounted to a
stronger crossmember in a better position. hope this helps out.
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 16:02:35 +1300
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] those darn brakes (again!)
To: [email protected]
Lee She[herd wrote:
>
><< One caveat: The
> Team Blitz rotors are for US spec Mk1 and Mk2 Capris. If 2.8i has different
> hubs they may not fit. >>
>
>Depends. There were two type Capri hubs (we're talking Euro shape Capris
>here), one that was almost exclusive to the 3 litres in the UK, and all the
>rest. The 3 litre hubs are almost like a flange, they are very shallow, the
>disc has a long "nose", and they bolt on from the front. All the rest have a
>fairly flat disc, the hub extends back further with four mounting lugs, and
>the disc bolts on from the back.
The different 3 L hubs I have never seen. It seems an odd thing to do. My
MKI GXL had the same hubs with the flat discs.
I have now found that ordinary unvented discs (NZ$#39 (13 pounds) @
(BREMBO) as opposed to NZ$270 @ for vented) will bolt on to 2.8I hubs. It
looks like I need to simply fit ordinary calipers without spacers (onto the
suspension leg). This way I figure I can buy 7 pairs of discs for the price
of one pair of vented discs!).
Besides those who have to race on these discs don't seem to have huge problems?
Neither Burtons or Demontweeks bothered to reply to my faxes. I guess
because I send from the university they think I'm a spotty (and poor)
student. I guess business is too good to bother sending to the colonies.
The US vented discs are probably imported from the UK anyway. Although the
pricing looks OK.
The joke is my wife will be in the UK later this year so she could have
picked some up for me (might still happen).
Thanks to those who've offered suggestions.
Brett Guthrie
Date: Thu, 23 Apr 1998 15:47:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: LeeSonic
Subject: Re: [capri-list] those darn brakes (again!)
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 23/04/98 05:20:13 GMT, [email protected] writes:
<< I have now found that ordinary unvented discs (NZ$#39 (13 pounds) @
(BREMBO) as opposed to NZ$270 @ for vented) will bolt on to 2.8I hubs. It
looks like I need to simply fit ordinary calipers without spacers (onto the
suspension leg). This way I figure I can buy 7 pairs of discs for the price
of one pair of vented discs!). >>
That is correct. At the end of the day, if you have to fit standard discs to
keep your car on the road, then so be it. Did you get the BL/Austin Princess
over there? That has four pot calipers (made by AP) that fit onto Capris no
problem, although they need spacing for the vented discs. That might get the
brakes back up to the standard of the vented disc/two pot caliper arrangement.
<< Neither Burtons or Demontweeks bothered to reply to my faxes. I guess
because I send from the university they think I'm a spotty (and poor)
student. I guess business is too good to bother sending to the colonies. >>
That's really sad. I've found both companies very helpful in the past. Perhaps
if you fax them back, and say you are second in line the the throne of King of
New Zealand, they will be a bit more responsive. Not that it should matter, as
your money is a good as anyones money, and it's not like that they are paying
for the postage out of their own pocket. I bought my vented, grooved and
crossdrilled discs from a company called Godspeed motorsport, they cost 99
pounds. Sadly, they don't even take credit cards, so I doubt if they will do
mail order abroad. P'raps when you come over you'll be able to go there in
person.
Date: Fri, 24 Apr 1998 16:01:22 +1300
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] those darn brakes (again!)
To: [email protected]
Lee Shepherd wrote:
. This way I figure I can buy 7 pairs of discs for the price
> of one pair of vented discs!). >>
>
>That is correct. At the end of the day, if you have to fit standard discs to
>keep your car on the road, then so be it. Did you get the BL/Austin Princess
>over there? That has four pot calipers (made by AP) that fit onto Capris no
>problem, although they need spacing for the vented discs. That might get the
>brakes back up to the standard of the vented disc/two pot caliper arrangement.
The downside here (yes we did have these wrecks here) is the wreckers think
these calipers are made of gold and sell them for what they paid for the
whole car. Next you have to have an engineers certificate then the
insurance co. gets a little silly about non-standard stuff even if it is an
improvement. I shouldn't worry though, I never used to years ago.....
So that might just be an option as I have to scout the wreckers for
ordinary calipers anyway.
Other than fade resistance is there really a huge difference between vented
and non-vented discs? (same surface area).
>That's really sad. I've found both companies very helpful in the past. Perhaps
>if you fax them back, and say you are second in line the the throne of King of
>New Zealand, they will be a bit more responsive.
Demon tweeks did reply but the price has gotten ridiculous by the time
customs and freight are taken in to account.
(The British monarchy is still "ruling" down here although there was/is a
Maori Queen who probably has more rights....)
I bought my vented, grooved and
>crossdrilled discs from a company called Godspeed motorsport,
This guy looks like he has the goods. You have to be nuts not to take
credit cards. Here its essential (as well as having EFT-POS).
Date: Fri, 1 May 1998 14:41:39 +1300
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Propshaft problems - was LSD issue
To: [email protected]
Larry wrote:
>
>The prop shaft (drive shaft) used on "Federal" Capris had universal joints
>that were not rebuildable; the entire drive shaft had to be replaced when a
>universal joint went bad. European Mk1 and Mk2 Capris are most likely the
>same. The Mk3 might be different, though.
>
I got told the same deal here in NZ. Not so much that the shaft was not
rebuildable but that a "home mechanic" couldn't do it. Impossible.
Doh, given the stuffups I've recieved at the hands of mechanics that was
like a red rag to a bull.
I finally found a kit that included the extra "formers" which are needed to
scrape little bits of metal over to lock the uni in (only Ford could have
thought of such a stupid idea).
These "formers" look a bit like mag wheel lock nut keys. You assemble the
uni in the shaft, then put the two "formers" on each side and set it up in
a vice. Then squeeze. It takes a bit to get the uni exactly centred but you
can.
I have since heard of it done with a cold chisel to burr the metal over. It
doesn't take much at all.
I raced this car hard for nearly 2 years after this before I sold it. The
next guy drove it hard too and never complained about any uni problems.
Balance might be marginal but that can be done at home with 2 hoseclips
(jubilee clips?)
Now the hard part is finding the uni kit with the 2 extra bits.....
Alternatively you can have circlip grooves cut in the drive shaft end which
means removing it from the shaft etc (probably what a shop would do).
Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 16:35:31 +1200
From: Simon Quested
Subject: [capri-list] MK1 and MK2 Cortina strut inserts
To: [email protected]
> Does anyone happen to have any correlation between Capri Strut inserts
> (probably MkI) and Mk IICortina strut inserts?
Here in NZ gas inserts were hard to get ( you can get then off the shelf now )
so a guy in the local Capri club found out that a certain model of porche had
the same dimension strut.
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 11:15:14 -0700
From: [email protected] (Tim Wakaluk)
Subject: [capri-list] Re/ '70-'77 Windshield
To: [email protected]
Weatherstripping for around the drivers door may be hard to find and
usually the weatherstripping found on parts cars is in poor shape on the
drivers side.
Do not be deterred. The weatherstripping is compatible with BOTH sides and
can be easily switched if you just start at the ninety degree corner. I use
a rubber mallet to fit it.
Date: Wed, 13 May 1998 21:53:06 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] '70-'77 Windshield size/Weatherstriping
To: [email protected]
Kenny Heck wrote:
> I am interested in knowing if MkI and MkII share the same windshield and
> weatherstriping.
I believe the answer is yes to the windshield and its associated seal, no
to the rest of the weatherstripping.
> I am in the process of replacing a '77 windshield and
> have been quoted $78 (new) which I personally find exceptional (never had
> to buy a windshield before though, this as great of a price as I think?)
Sounds like an excellent price to me. Last time I bought one was 1982, and
IIRC it cost more than $78 then!
> and am also in need of new weatherstriping. ... Does anybody sell
replacement weatherstriping, including for
> the doors, side glass and rear windows? Also, I will be in need of new
> chrome inserts that lock the windshield and rear window in place.
Try Team Blitz, they definitely have reproduction weather stripping. It's
also available in Europe, but the European windshields are only 5mm thick
while the US ones are 6.3mm thick, so the European windshield seals are a
little different. I've heard they will fit US windshields anyway, but I've
never tried it myself.
Other possible US suppliers are Wilson's Capri Ranch and NOS Only. You can
find all the addresses/phone numbers/URLs on the Capri Club of Chicago web
site (http://www.niagara.com/~bevc/ccc.htm) under "Suppliers".
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 08:35:20 +0800
From: Andrew Kelman
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Re: Handling: was Bilstiens....did I spell
To: [email protected], [email protected]
>Simon wrote:
>I'm surprised that Capri handling hasn't bought everyone out of the
>woodwork with advice.
I'm getting a little bit familiar with the handling of capris and escorts, I
tested my escort club racer at the track yesterday, so let me hold forth on
the subject.
In my opinion you need strong front springs, if you are racing. I have 240lb
at 8" in the front of the escort. The car pitches plenty under brakes, even
with a 1" anti-dive kit. If you have soft springs then you need further
travel distance, larger wheel clearance, this means the car has to sit higher
giving you more wind resistance, or else you will scrub tyres and knock off
your chin-spoiler. You additionally need big front bars to keep the stiffly
sprung wheels on the ground, and good shocks on their stiffest setting.
I have redrilled the crossmember, giving startling camber change. I recommend
letting an engineering shop do this. About 1/2" up and out actually. I
followed the reinforcing plates line, and placed them best for clearance of
the LCA. I replaced the crappy rubber strut tops with bearing strut tops from
a Mitsubishi sigma: $25 and a bit of work with the files.
This is probably all a bit rough for the road if you don't have streets like
Canberra, Australia's capital. The tyres also scrub off at an alarming rate,
oh well . . . least you know you are using them.
The rear-end is another matter. The limitations of the solid axle quickly
become apparent. The axle should be located. The body should be as low as
possible and the springs should be as soft as possible, shocks will probably
be on their softest setting. A roll bar may be useful but I keep taking mine
off every time I test. Weld up the diff.
A stiff front is required to balance the solid axle rear. What is required to
produce a competitive car, is not always useful on the road. On the road,
saving tyres and not hitting speed-bumps is more important than outright
corner speed.
Andrew Kelman
'78 Escort Mk2 (BTW; On Yoko A008R)
'71 Capri Mk1
Date: Fri, 15 May 1998 13:56:49 +1300
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Re: Handling: was Bilstiens....did I spell
To: [email protected]
Andrew wrote:
>In my opinion you need strong front springs, if you are racing. I have 240lb
>at 8" in the front of the escort.
Most of the Escorts and Cortinas I have seen racing follow this line of
thought, just like they did when the Cortinas were first introduced. It
must suit the chassis design. See soft rear settings in first post.
>
>I have redrilled the crossmember, giving startling camber change. I recommend
>letting an engineering shop do this. About 1/2" up and out actually.
Whoa ! Might be a bit radical for the street. I guess the primary deal is
not stray too far from the pivot for the steering arm.
The changes can all be worked out by measuring everything with a ruler,
assuming the top pivots are the centre of a big circle and then converting
everything into degrees. Each change in mm or inches can show the degrees
change in camber (or castor if at the same time you are fooling around with
the sway bar to bring the castor forward to sensible settings).
The downside is that the more camber the more "darty" a car becomes.
A plus with lowering is that the tire "flattens" as it is in negative
camber at the stock height (due to the design of the strut). You can see
this looking front on to a car (most) under braking.
2" lowering will probably bring an early Capri wheel to 0 degrees. Any
experiences folks?
I
>followed the reinforcing plates line, and placed them best for clearance of
>the LCA. I replaced the crappy rubber strut tops with bearing strut tops from
>a Mitsubishi sigma: $25 and a bit of work with the files.
Now theres an interesting mod. Which years Sigma?
A roll bar may be useful but I keep taking mine
>off every time I test.
The RX7 class guys who have to use a lot of stockish stuff usually remove
the rear sway bar to get the chassis to react properly. I am contemplating
this with my car (puny little bar that it is). Many of the Cortinas and
Escorts I've raced against have no rear bar and are bloody hard to keep up
with. Its weird following a car 3 wheeling around a corner.
Date: Sat, 16 May 1998 20:32:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: MRB7484
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Brake pads/Strut rebuilding
To: [email protected], [email protected]
In a message dated 98-05-16 17:22:19 EDT, [email protected] writes:
<<
The pads are actually for some Datsun or another, but almost always drop
right in, (sometimes have to file off a couple of thou. from the sides).
However, these are not inexpensive pads. The last set that I purchased were
$64.95 plus tax.Part number from my last invoice is; Powr/Pad
KFF-5076.P42A.Datsun.
>>
Which is a Datsun 240-60-80. Nissan licensed the design for the calipers
(Girling 16P), and the pads interchange.
As a bit of trivia, the brakes on the 89+ 300ZX are interchangeable with
most Jag E types / XJ6's
Date: Tue, 19 May 1998 21:47:51 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] '71 ITB capri race car weight?
To: [email protected]
Rocco Pontrelli wrote:
> I finally got my ITB capri tech inspected and weighed. To my surprise
> the car with me in it at 170 lbs, only weighs 2220 lbs and that's with
> 8 gallons of fuel. The SCCA minimum is 2300 lbs with the driver? Is
> this figure correct?
In my opinion this is too heavy for a '71 Capri 2000, but I don't think my
opinion will carry much weight (sorry) with the SCCA.
I'm pretty sure the 2266 lb. figure in the owner's manual is the weight of
a fully loaded car with 12.5 gallons of fuel. My roadgoing '71 Capri 2000
is registered in New York at 2136 lbs.; IIRC New Jersey called it 2050 lbs.
Since registration fees in both states are based on vehicle weight they
certainly don't have any incentive to understate the weight.
2300 lbs. might be close to the weight of a '73 or '74 Capri 2000, which
have heavier bumpers (especially the '74) and heavier doors (with side
impact beams).
Date: Tue, 26 May 1998 07:36:50 -0400
From: "Kmiec, Kenneth R. Consultant NMIMC"
Subject: RE: RE: [capri-list] Re/ '70-'77 Windshield
To: 'Tony Vissoc' , [email protected]
Here are the numbers:
J C Whitney 5/8 x 3/4 13V2561U $28.95
Spong rubber bulb with vinyl trim
Ken Kmiec 1973 V6 Silver Bullet Original Owner
Burke, VA
[email protected]
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tony Vissoc [SMTP:[email protected]]
> Sent: Friday, May 15, 1998 5:55 AM
> To: [email protected]
> Subject: Re: RE: [capri-list] Re/ '70-'77 Windshield
>
> Please, Let us (or at least me) know the part number.
>
> >>> "Kmiec, Kenneth R. Consultant NMIMC" 05/15
> 7:46 AM >>>
> Guys, I found a "workable" match for my 1973 at JC Whitney. Works
> great. Start at the upper rear corner with a ninety degree (or close to
> it) cut wrap around the door and end with a ninety degree cut. USe a
> little clear silicone to fill the gap........If interested I will get
> the part number this weekend ..
Date: Mon, 25 May 1998 20:33:14 -0700
From: Bill & Lorraine Thompson
Subject: [capri-list] V6: running hot?
To: "[email protected]"
How many of you out there have 74-on V6 Capris that run warm on at least some
occasions? Actually, this TechTip can also benefit 72-73 owners as
well............. My 77 2800 ran hot sometimes. 106 degree days in slow
traffic, constant 12% grades up mountains at 8-10,000' (lower boiling point),
driving fast for many hours. I tried many solutions- I have a 3-core
radiator, a 78? Ford non-viscous flex fan (heavy mother!), temperature-
controlled (or a/c switched) electric fan pushing from the front from an 83
Nissan Sentra, a much higher volume thermostat from a Toyota truck V6 (looks
just like the thermostat Mr Ford put in the Capri originally). Each of these
changes helped marginally, maybe 1-2 degrees each. One thing which did not
help was my use of 7 psi radiator cap; I'm tired of repairing blown radiator
tanks with 13 psi. One day I put on my thinking cap (rarely done, I don't want
to overheat either), and it dawned on me that perhaps some of the air coming
through the grill was venting out though the big hole in the valance below
that monster bumper. So I fashioned a 14x8?" section of 16 gauge sheet metal,
bent it down the center lengthwise about 15-20 degrees so it behaved like a
scoop or small airdam, and attached it to the stock sheetmetal lip on the
bottom of the hole with four small sheetmetal screws. Since then it has
remained below 200 degrees instead of 230! Driving across Nevada at 85mph for
hours on a 100 degree day? No sweat! Traffic jam? Turn on the A/C! If this
helps keep one Capri owner from blowing head gaskets and cracking heads, then
it was worth typing all this!!
Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 00:01:42 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri on karting track
To: [email protected]
Avo Elme wrote:
> I plan to have few rounds on a local karting track, .... I would
> like to ask your opinion about what tires to use. The 3.0 is quite
> nose-heavy and understeering, so I thought to put 205 in front and
> 195 in back. The suspension is stock. Any thoughts?
James replied:
> That is a bad idea...bigger tires on the front?
>
> I would get more camber put in to the front suspension geometry... ...
> Putting wider front tires on the front is going to cause more problems
> than it solves.
>
> You can prevent the understeer with "throttle steering"...kicking the
> rear end out with a jab of the throttle.
>
> Or get tires that are softer...giving you more grip on the front.
I agree with most of what James said. Bigger tires in front will almost
certainly cause more problems than it solves. Suggest 205/60-13s all
around. If you don't mind buying an extra set of tires that are not useful
for everyday driving, get a set of autocross tires (Yokahama A008R, BF
Goodrich Comp T/A R1, etc.) You'll probably need to run much higher tire
pressures up front than in back, too. Try something like 36 PSI front, 26
PSI rear.
Negative camber will help, but if the Mk3 front suspension is anything like
the Mk1 and Mk2 you'll have to make modifications to get it. The RS 2600
used a special front cross member to give -1/2 degree; top strut mounts
with slotted holes are a common aftermarket approach.
A stiffer rear antiroll bar will help, but be careful or you'll end up with
dangerous oversteer! You might want to change to a stiffer bar before you
race, then change back to the stock bar before driving on the street.
And definitely try the "Throttle Steer" trick! :-)
Date: Wed, 27 May 1998 00:13:52 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] V6: running hot?
To: [email protected]
Bill & Lorraine Thompson wrote (in part):
> ... My 77 2800 ran hot sometimes. ... I tried many solutions- ...
> ... a much higher volume thermostat from a Toyota truck V6 (looks
> just like the thermostat
> Mr Ford put in the Capri originally). ...
Make sure it WORKS just like the one Mr. Ford put in the Capri originally.
The 2600/2800 cooling system has an unusual 3 step thermostat that's not
like the thermostats found on most other engines. When cold the thermostat
routes all the coolant through the bypass hose on the side of the engine;
when warm it routes some of the coolant through the bypass hose and the
rest through the radiator; when very hot it routes all of the coolant
through the radiator. If the Toyota thermostat doesn't shut off the bypass
hose when it's very hot you may actually have less coolant flowing through
the radiator than you did before....
Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 16:25:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Pontiac 455 into UK Mk3 Capri
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 31/05/98 12:31:17 GMT, [email protected] writes:
<< I have recently bought a UK Mk3 3.0 Ghia Capri (1979).
It's in good condition, but could do with more power.
I have lying around an old Pontiac with a
1972 built 455 V8 and TH400 Gearbox. The body is shot but
the drivetrain is good. Anybody any idea on the feasibility
of putting the 455/400 into the Capri? Would it be worth it,
what kind of car would I end up with? (btw my personal preference
is for a high torque car rather than high rpm horsepower). >>
Hmmmm...nice heavy engine in a car that's already light at the rear end. Go 4
it! A limited slip differential, and you'll be the doughnut king!
Seriously though, it sounds like fun. You ain't gonna win any prizes for
handling, hot hatches will probably runs rings round you on the corners, but
just wait 'til the straights and power past them. The Capri is a big old heavy
car, and so a torquey engine will certainly help you get off the line quicker.
Sometimes in my car (Mk3 2.1, see web page), the engine gets caught off cam
and bogs down, sometimes it's not that easy to keep the revs high enough round
town. But a big stonky V8 should be "point and squirt" in the extreme.
I take it you live in the UK. If anywhere near the South East, give Tickover a
ring (0181 298 1995), they are always putting Chevy V8's in Capris, they might
be able to offer advice. Apart from the obvious things (brakes, suspension,
gearbox, and transmission tunnel), here are the problem areas you might run
into under the bonnet, these were specific problems I found when putting a
Rover V8 into my old Capri.
Drivers side exhaust manifold. This has to clear the steering column, and was
a real pain in the arse on my car. The first manifold I had took all four
primaries straight back to the rear of the engine bay, and then down in a
bunch of fours. Trouble was, they bent down too early, and fouled the steering
coupling. The next manifold I had made went down at a angle, and did the same
thing. Basically, I'd forget everything about performance manifolding (equal
length primaries, tubular manifolds etc.) and concentrate on getting
everything clear of the coupling. What are the standard cast manifolds like?
If there's room, how about the manifold off the other side pointing forward.
The stupid rubber coupling on the bottom of the steering coupling is also a
problem, it's this bit that can hit the manifold as well. I shaved mine down
with an angle grinder, but was always afraid the heat from the manifold would
melt the rubber. When I bought my kit car, the steering coupling is like two
of the Capri top joints, connected together by a splined rod. If you are
having problems, you might like to give them a ring (DJ Sportscars), their
phone number is again on my web page.
Cooling. At first I used a 3 litre Capri rad, moved further forward, and with
a Cortina top 90 degree elbow in the bottom outlet to bring the pipe upwards.
The next rad I used was an aluminium one from a five cylinder Audi 80/100,
which is a horizontal flow rad. Both these might be a bit small for the 454,
so try a Rover SD1, or just have a wander round a breakers yard looking at
rads.
Power steering is easy. Between the 3 litre pump, and the Rover SD1 pump, you
should be able to make something fit (if the Pontiac one doesn't). The Rover
pump has the advantage of having the same tread size as the Capri one.
Finally, Real Steel (01895 440505) are probably THE best place for V8 bits in
the UK. They might even stock different (i.e. shorter) water pumps for the
454, they do for the Rover.
Date: Tue, 2 Jun 1998 13:14:31 +1300
From: [email protected] (Brett Guthrie)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Pontiac 455 into UK Mk3 Capri
To: [email protected]
Dave wrote:
Distributor clearance is tight due to the heater plenum. I
>recommend trimming the plenum with tin snips. Cut out a tin can for a
>nicely curved insert and use screws or pop rivets to seal the hole in
>the plenum.
The SB Chev swap (MK1) we did had this problem. We hammered the plenum back
some into a nice concave shape then used filler to smoothen it out. Depends on
who wants to look under the bonnet (hood). Near stock 350, TH350, 2.73 9" and
12.8's first time out with a newbie driver. . A bit of over kill was box
section through the floor from the front rails to the rear. The Aus. strip
capris I've seen do't do this and the run in the 10's and 11's with real hard
launches. The shell must be strong enough, however these are all MK1's. I sold
a hot 460 and C6 to a guy who was going to fit to a tubbed MK1 but I haven't
seen it yet. I once saw a mag picture of a Mk1 with a BB Chev which had a
firewall recess.
Date: Tue, 02 Jun 1998 20:49:28 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] steering rack swaps,
To: [email protected]
Regarding pre-/post-facelift steering rack swaps, I previously wrote:
> -> ... The shaft with the
> -> steering U-joint and rubber coupler was different too, and IIRC the
> -> pre-facelift version wouldn't fit the post-facelift steering rack
> -> properly.
Dave Williams replied:
> I have a mix-n-match setup in my Capri at this very moment. Are you
> sure you didn't encounter a German vs. Brit Capri problem? ... It's not
an issue in the USA;
> all we got were German-made.
Dave may be onto something here! Although the books don't mention it a few
early US spec Capri 1600 were in fact built in England. Now that I think
about it what I was actually trying to do was swap an early Mk1 rack into a
friend's '73 2600 (post-facelift). I don't know exactly what the "donor"
car was (I got the rack in a large box of spare parts when I bought another
'73), but it's possible that it was one of the British cars.
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 17:44:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Mk1 Capri Door Handles...
To: [email protected]
Hi all!
For those of you Mk1 Capri owners, has anyone else had the problem of the
window winder handle coming off? Not from the door, but the black plastic knob
pulling off the end of the handle. It's held on there by a splayed out rivet
type fitting, but over the years the knob wears, and eventually comes off, and
there's no real way of getting it to stay on.
But now there is a cure! Get the door handle from a Mk2/3 Capri, and remove
the knob from this. If you look at the back, you'll see it is held on by a
square section that pushes through the metal part of the handle, and is
rotated. Turn this with a pair of pliers, and it will come off. Next, squeeze
it between your fingers, and you will see that the centre cap can be removed
by inserting a thin screwdriver in the edge, and levering the cover off. You
should now have three sections, the black plastic knob, it's cover, and the
spindle which will either be grey or red plastic. The spindle has a circular
section, and then a square section where it fits through the metal handle. Saw
this part off with a hacksaw.
Now comes the clever bit. Drill out the old rivet fixing on your original Mk1
handle. Next, drill a hole in the grey spindle from the Mk2/3 handle. Finally,
refit the old and new parts together, by using a self tapping screw through
the back of the Mk1 metal handle, into the grey/red spindle of the new Mk2/3
handle.
It sounds complicated (ie. took a bit of typing on my part), but it will all
become clear when you have the parts in your hands. Those outside of the
UK/Europe, where the Mk2/3 Capris where a bit rare, don't worry. The knob I
used was from a Ford Cortina, but basically any car that you can seperate the
winder knob from the window winder handle should do. Try a Ford Escort maybe.
Date: Sat, 13 Jun 1998 17:44:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] New Mk1 Capri door trim panels
To: [email protected]
Hi all!
I have successfully managed to make a Mk1 Capri door trim panel from scratch.
All I used was a sheet of hardboard, some vinyl trim from a local
coachtrimming place, spray glue, and some foam backing. The vinyl is a
slightly darker shade of tan than my original panels, but a good match
considering the age gap of 28 years. Both the door trim panels in my car had
been affected by the rain over the years, the drivers one was completely
disintegrated at the bottom, and the passenger one was all bowed out at the
bottom, again due to swelling from the rain. However, the panel was still
whole, if more than a little distorted, and it was this I used as a template
for marking out the hardboard.
Once I had marked it out, I cut out the shape of the door panel with a jigsaw,
and drilled holes for the plastic fixing clips. Problem number one : The top
of the old door panel had a U shaped metal strip where it folds over the door,
and it is held on with metal prongs, formed in it at Fords factory no doubt.
What I did here was drilled these out to get rid of these, and fixed this
metal strip to the wood panel using something called "no more nails". It's
like a strong kind of silicone mastic stuff, available at most DIY places.
Problem number two : The holes I drilled for the plastic trim clips were now
in the wrong place, as I glued the wood on at a slightly different height to
where it sat originally, so I filed them out a bit.
After this, the rest was easy. Spray the panel with spray glue, and put on two
layers of foam. Then, lay the vinyl trim on a table, rest the panel on top,
and staple up the trim round the edges, having first sprayed on a little glue.
I also made some speaker rings from MDF as my Infinity speakers are too deep,
I also covered these with vinyl.
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 10:37:16 +1200
From: Simon Quested
Subject: Re: [capri-list] FI - fuel
To: [email protected]
Hi Gustaf
> I'm about to convert my 2.0S 1980 (UK model) to fuel injection
(as if I
> had'nt enough trouble getting the 5 spd in....)
Your question about the bell housing swap, I tried it just to see if it
would work and the problem is that on the bell housing end of the 5
speed it has the end of a rod coming out of the box. The bell
housing has a dimple that covers the rod. If you drilled the bell
housing and put a cap over the hole it stop crud getting in it should
be fine. This is probably easier than getting the bell housing
fixed.....by the way how did you break it... it a solid part of the car!
> 1. How large should the tank in the engine compartment be? Someone I spoke
> to said 5 liters (a little bit more than a gallon), but I'd rather have it
> smaller.
A surge tank is a tank that acts as a resevoir for the High pressure
fuel pump. If you hit a corner hard the fuel will slop to one end of
the tank if you don't have a surge tank the fuel pump may suck air
and cause the injectors to run out of fuel and cause a miss.
Have a look at
http://www.lincoln.ac.nz/ccb/techs/simon/netpics/fuel.jpg
The easy and cheep way to make a surge tank is to buy about 4
inches of 3 inch diameter exhaust pipe get some plate steel
welded on to the ends then drill a hole near the top of the tank (this
is the return), drill a hole in the middle (this is the fuel in line) and
drill a hole in the bottom (this is the line that goes to the high
pressure pump)
> 2. What would the pressure inside the tank be?
The surge tank will have very little pressure (unless you use small
fuel line =-)
> 3. Would the tank need a swirl pot?
Nope.....what is a swirl pot?
> 4. Would the standard LP fuelpump be sufficient for supplying fuel to the
> (small) tank?
Yep.
> Anything more I should think of?
Yes, don't let the parts store sell you EFI fuel line as the pressure
rating for EFI is a lot lower than a CIS system like the Bosch
setup. EFI ~ 30 - 60 psi, CIS ~ 80 - 120 psi IIRC.
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 18:42:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Rover V8 transplants
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 17/06/98 17:32:55 GMT, [email protected] writes:
<< This is specifically for Lee...who has experience of such matters...
..Basically how easy is it to put a Rover V8 into a Capri...and what
needs to be sorted? >>
It all depends what way you want to do, or more accurately what gearbox to
use.
If you want to use a Ford gearbox, then you'll need to make up or buy some
sort of adaptor plate to mate the Rover engine to the Ford gearbox. The
advantage of this is you can still retain the cable clutch, and the Ford
propshaft. The disadvantage is you either have to have the engine sitting
farther forward so you'll need a remote oil filter and radiator right at the
front of the car, or you might have to modify the transmission tunnel where
the gearlever comes through and shorten the propshaft if you mount the engine
further back. Bear in mind also that the only Ford gearboxes that can take the
power available in the UK are the 3 litre four speed, or the Cosworth T5 (big
bucks).
If you want to use the Rover gearbox, then you will have to modify the
bulkhead and clutch pedal to fit a hydraulic master cylinder. In addition, the
Rover gearbox is longer, so again you'll either have to mount the engine
further foward, mount the gearbox further back so the gearlever comes out in
the "wrong" place, or shorten the gearshift linkage and it's casting. I've
also heard rumours that an unshortened gearbox will need the transmission
tunnel opening out. You will also need a propshaft with the front section to
mate to the Rover gearbox, and the back to the Capri axle.
Both methods will need some way of mounting the engine. Either make up new
mounts for the engine, or modify the Ford crossmember to accept Rover mounts.
Beware of engine mounts that don't use all three Rover mounting points, they
will flex and crack in time. Also both methods will need exhaust manifolds to
clear the steering coupling. If you have access to welding plant, all well and
good, but for those of us who don't, it's a question of what manifolds to buy
that will clear. The popular ones are Rover P5B ones, not the best in terms of
flow, but compact.
Obviously there will be brake, suspension, wiring, fuel and exhaust
modifications as well.
All in all, it's not a job to be taken lightly, and I'm not just saying that
to put you off. When I did my previous one using a Ford gearbox, I got so
disheartened that I almost gave up and sold it as an unfinished project.
The bits I have just bought include a Rover gearbox, P5B exhaust manifolds,
clutch pedal and a Mk4 Escort radiator, so I will have to modify the bulkhead
to fit the hydraulic master cylinder. As my car is a two litre, I will need to
sort out an exhaust for the other bank of cylinders, or make up a whole new
system. Also, if I use the Escort radiator, I will have to move the battery
into the boot, as the Escort rad is quite wide.
Should be a nice weekend job don't you think?
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 23:58:54 +0000 (GMT)
From: Volker Rehbock
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Rover V8 transplants
To: [email protected]
> > the engine further back. Bear in mind also that the only Ford gearboxes
> > that can take the power available in the UK are the 3 litre four speed, or
> > the Cosworth T5 (big bucks).
>
> Here in NZ the common gearbox used for this is the toyota steel 5
> speed I think you can even buy a bell housing kit to fit the toyota 5
> speed to a rover V8.
I think there are a number of people who make these. When I was in
Sydney last summer, I dropped in on Dellow's who make complete 5 speed
conversions for almost any application you can think of. They supply
all the required bits from the bell housing to the tailshaft yoke to
mate to your existing tailshaft. They deal mainly in Supra boxes nowadays.
Apparently the steel case Celica ones are getting hard to find. Cost for
what I was interested in was about A$1,400. This includes the recond
Supra 5 speed and freight to Perth...
Date: Thu, 18 Jun 1998 22:52:30 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: [capri-list] History of US Capris - latest draft
To: Capri-List
The latest draft of our soon to be completed history of the Capri in the
USA is now available at:
http://www.niagara.com/~bevc/caprius8.htm
Please scrutinize it and let us (Dave, me) know if you spot any errors.
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 09:22:20 +0000
From: Mr Alistar Morgan
Subject: [capri-list] V8 Conversions
To: [email protected]
Anyone wanting to convert capris to V 8 Power should check out
http://www.crap.co.uk/
Im not sure who told me about this site it may even have come from
the list, but I thought I'd send it in again!
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 17:27:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Mk1 door panel update...
To: [email protected]
Following on from my post about making Mk1 door trim panels from scratch, I
have found an easier way to get the holes for the little plastic trim clips in
the correct place. Cut out the hardboard in the correct shape for the door
panels, and glue it to the metal "U" shaped top piece. While this is drying,
fit the trim clips into the door, and paint the tops with some touch up paint,
or ordinary paint with a using a small brush. Once the panel has glued, fix
some strips of double sided adhesive foam to the back of the door panel where
the trim clips should be. Fit this to the door by hooking the metal "U" shaped
top piece over where the window is, and push it down as far as it will go.
Now, push the panel against the trim clips, and the paint will stick to the
foam showing the exact location where the holes for the trim clips should be.
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 1998 17:59:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Rally Design...
To: [email protected]
Just got my Rally Design catalogue I ordered the other day. Now, I don't know
why, but I suspected them to be a small outfit. I was not prepared for the war
and piece thickness catalogue that landed on the doormat. Their range, and
more important their low prices are unbelievable. They seem to concentrate a
lot more on the older Ford, with only a few bits listed for newer cars
(hawk...spit). Obviously I can't list everything, but here are a few examples
:
Polyurethane inner TCA bushes : 3.40
Ditto outer : 4.30
Steering rack : 5.54 pr
2.8 single leaf springs : 49.50
Lowering blocks : 10.00
Quick steering rack : 67.50
Front springs : 10.50
Wilwood caliper kit (with vented discs) : 271.07 both sides
Standard Capri caliper (for vented discs) : 43.92
Braided brake hoses : 15.64 kit
1.6/2.0 exhaust manifold : 62.50
2.8i exhaust manifolds : 97.13
1.6/2.0 exhaust system (2 box) : 62.50
2.8i twin exhausts : 112.46
All prices are in UK pounds and exclude our crippling 17.5% VAT.
Rally Design are on 01795 531871.
Date: Sat, 20 Jun 1998 00:55:15 -0400
From: "Kenneth A. Heck"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Getting tired of my 2.3
To: [email protected]
When I put the 2.8 in place of the 2.3 in my '77, I had exactly this
problem. The battery tray on the driver's side presented a couple
problems, and here's how I worked around them. Alternator was actually
fairly easy, I used an alternator bracket from the 2.6 which places it on
the passenger side out of the way. The 2.3 alternator wiring was too short
to reach, so I unraveled the tape around the '73 alternator wiring, cut
appropriate length wire and put crimped blade ends on the wire to plug into
the 2.3 connector (so basically I just made an alternator extension cord),
thereby doing no damage to my stock 2.3 alternator wiring (Important if you
ever want to put it back). Used liberal use of electrical tape around
connection site. Hard to tell it's not just the factory wire wrapping
around it.
During this conversion, I also installed power steering and factory A/C
into it. Power steering hoses would normally attach to the cooler line
under where the 2.3 battery tray, so I simply flipped the cooling line so
it's attachment ends were on the passenger side and ran hose across to it.
The A/C compressor still fit at the stock location (barely, battery size
is very important here), but the connection line to the condensor was
obviously very musch so in the way as stock location would put it through
the middle of the battery. So off to a local auto A/C supplier I went and
bought the connections that screw onto the side of the compressor which I
aimed so as to point both hoses backwards away from the battery.
Connection had a barbed end for attaching the hose. This does create a
problem accessing the schrader valves to fill the A/C. I did something
semi-dangerous (at least semi-dangerous to the health of the car) to charge
it. Started engine, removed cables from battery and carefully placed
positive termincal inside a HEAVY leather glove to avoid any shorts and
removed battery. Charged it with engine running but without the battery in
place. Have to be careful to avoid shorts that would fry the electrical
system. Back to A/C conversion: Bought three foot of hose to have enough
to make a U-turn from the compressor back forward and used another barbed
end connector to fit it straight to the condensor. Did not use a factory
style receiver drier. Instead mounted a $20 dealer type on the passenger
side in the engine bay (not attached to condensor as factory had done).
>From drier one hose ran hose back across to the bottom condensor spot, once
again using a barbed connector that I had bought and the other hose from
the drier was connected straight back to the valve assembly in front of the
firewall. This somewhat tedious rerouting left enough space and movement
in the whole assembly that I could pull the engine if necessary and never
had to discharge the A/C. Plenty of extra hose to move everything out of
the way when engine removal is required.
Changing the 2.3 to 2.8 has to be one of the easiest engine swaps
possible. BTW, input shafts are different between V6 and 4-cyl so you
have to swap the tranny, too. Everything else went in great with just
simply replacing any other 4 cyl parts for V6 parts where necessary.
Acceleration changed from 14-15 seconds going from 0-60mph to the 10-11
second range. Major improvement.
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 11:11:38 +0200
From: Gustaf Ulander
Subject: [capri-list] 5 speed
To: Capri-List
Hello.....
Soo...finally the 5 spd sits under my MkIII 2.0S. It was not THAT easy to
convert - I am not done yet. Some of the problems:
1. Input shaft too long - V6'box
2. Gearbox mounting, moved rearwards about 50mm, "down" about 30 mm (is
this correct???)
3. Propshaft - Capri 5 spd propshafts "unobtanium" in Sweden - tried the
"front" part from a Sierra - mates to the Capri prop, mates to the box but
a little bit too short. Maybe a Taunus/Granada shaft is better?
4. The exhaust (not original) interfears with the "Hardy" rubber coupling.
5. The gearlever hits the parking brake in 2nd and 4th gear
6. The reverse light switch is in the wrong place
Good parts
1. The standard speedometer cable can be used - but does the speedo show
the correct speed? Will find out
2. The clutch is the same 23 spline
All would have been easier if I had a 5 spd Capri to "steal" parts from -
BTW what would a 5 spd propshaft go for in the UK?
Date: Mon, 22 Jun 1998 18:28:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 5 speed
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 22/06/98 09:20:06 GMT, [email protected]
writes:
To those of you who replied to my concerns about the 5 spd bellhousing - it
turned out that the 'box was a V6 type N/9 - I had to shorten the input
shaft to make it fit. Probably the former owner had tried to fit the 'box
to a 2ltr, and cracked the bellhousing.
<< Some of the problems:
1. Input shaft too long - V6'box >>
So did it come without a bellhousing then? Or are they the same?
<< 2. Gearbox mounting, moved rearwards about 50mm, "down" about 30 mm (is
this correct???) >>
Sounds similar to mine.
<< 5. The gearlever hits the parking brake in 2nd and 4th gear >>
Mine used to do this with the V6 gearbox in too. I wonder if the gearlever
pivots are different, or the gearboxs are slightly different lengths end to
end (V6 five speed versus 4 cyl five speed).
<< 6. The reverse light switch is in the wrong place >>
The leads to the connecter have been lengthened on mine.
<<1. The standard speedometer cable can be used - but does the speedo show
the correct speed? Will find out >>
Doubtful if it is a V6 box. Mine used to go off the clock at 140mph, and I
don't think is was THAT fast!
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 11:46:44 +1200
From: Simon Quested
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 5 speed
To: [email protected]
Hi Gustaf and All.
> Soo...finally the 5 spd sits under my MkIII 2.0S. It was not THAT easy to
> convert - I am not done yet. Some of the problems: 1. Input shaft too
> long - V6'box
I'm not surprised if you used the V6 box.
> 2. Gearbox mounting, moved rearwards about 50mm, "down"
> about 30 mm (is this correct???)
Something like that. With my 2L sierra box it was 50mm 50mm.
> 3. Propshaft - Capri 5 spd propshafts
> "unobtanium" in Sweden - tried the "front" part from a Sierra - mates to
> the Capri prop, mates to the box but a little bit too short. Maybe a
> Taunus/Granada shaft is better?
Did you try getting the prop shaft that goes with the box and
putting it on the original drive shaft from your car ?
> 5. The gearlever hits the parking brake
> in 2nd and 4th gear
The fix for this is to get the gear lever and bent it forward about 15
degrees while I had mine out of the car I also cut an inch off it to
make it shorter I find it much nicer to use like this.
> 6. The reverse light switch is in the wrong place
It's in the same place as the 4 speed on the 2L.....not that this
helps.
> Good parts
> 1. The standard speedometer cable can be used - but does the speedo show
> the correct speed? Will find out 2. The clutch is the same 23 spline
It all comes down to the diff ratio. If the car that the new box is from
had the same diff ratio as your car then you will be fine but as the 5
speed is from a V6 I'd guess that you will need to get a new
speedo drive.
> All would have been easier if I had a 5 spd Capri to "steal" parts from -
> BTW what would a 5 spd propshaft go for in the UK?
Or if you got a 5 speed from a 2L sierra.
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 20:35:42 +1000
From: Alex Page
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Instrument Voltage Regulator
To: Capri-List
I recently had voltage regulator problems myself. I have a 1969 1600GT,
the fuel and temp gauges weren't working due a broken voltage regulator and
I couldn't find anyone that could supply me with a new one. I ended up
getting a mate to build one. I did a lot of asking around and it seems the
peak voltage should be around 7 volts. My new (now electronic) voltage
regulator puts out about 7.5 volts and the gauges are behaving well.
I pulled the top off the old one and there are 2 strips of metal that
vibrate against each other turning the power on/off at a certain frequency.
Mine was totally burnt out, I knew I was in trouble when it rattled ;-). It
could be that yours is making contact more than it should and could be
fixable.
Date: Wed, 01 Jul 1998 21:59:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] yet another front end shake update
To: [email protected]
Some of you may remember me and several others writing to the list back
in February about that irritating steering wheel shake at about 30 mph when
braking. My e-mail read
(I also have the front end shimmy you described. I have also tried all the
things you mentioned to get rid of that shacking which usually happens around
30 mph when the brakes are applied and seems to be a common problem with the
Capri. Everything I tried would seem to help but the problem would never go
away completely and would always start to reappear after a while. I think
someone on the list (I can't remember who) said that clamping the rack and to
the crossmember with two hose clamps will illuminate the shaking. I haven't
tried this yet because my Capri is in storage till spring shows up around
here. Can anyone confirm that this works? It seems to make sense because the
one thing about the Capri that is different from the cars with rack and pinion
steering built know is that the rod ends are angled up about 20 deg to reach
the rack in the Capri. The rods run straight into the rack in cars these days.
This may mean that any wear in the rack bearings or looseness of the rack to
the crossmember could allow any slight vibration in the front end to get
amplified through the rack to the front wheels. This might cause the wheels to
shake back and forth and the loose rack to shake up and down on its
crossmember supports. Can anyone confirm this)?
I finally got my Capri out of storage so I've been tearing the car apart since
the middle of june looking for the cause, here is what I found.
The steering rack inner and outer ball joints were not loose
The steering rack clamps and insulators were tight
All the suspension parts appeared to be tight and yet when I had someone shake
the wheels when off the ground with the steering wheel clamped riggedy in
place their seemed to be looseness inside the rack itself. The gear rack
itself seemed to be moving both up and down and in and out in its housing.
Assuming the rack was the problem I started disassembling it. With the
dust covers out of the way I found the rack bearing on the passenger side of
the rack to be loose were it contacts the inner side of the housing. This
bearing has three contact points with the rack housing. To fix it temporarily
and see if that was really the problem I drove 3 two penny finish nails into
the 3 spaces between the contact points so the bearing was rigged against the
housing tube.
Put everything back together went for a test-drive and guess what. Same
problem.
After shaking the wheels again there was less up and down play but still some
back and forth play in the gear rack.
I tried removing the 2 rack bearing adjusting shims (each .010 thick and
located over the pinion shaft) but the steering was too tight so I added 1
shim. Went for a test drive and no more steering wheel shake. Now when I brake
I feel a slight vibration from a slightly warped rotor but it never transmits
to the steering wheel shake like it used to. Has anyone else tried removing a
shim to cure this problem and is it possible to get replacement parts for the
steering rack or should I plan on getting a rebuilt rack that has hopefully
had the rack bearing replaced and been shimmed right.
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 18:23:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Power Steering Racks
To: [email protected]
The following information has been sent to me by a company specialising i=
n=0Apower steering racks. I'm forwarding it to the list in case it is of =
use to=0Aanybody.
Lee Shepherd
Mk3 (modified), Mk1 (stock as a rock)
http://members.aol.com/leesonic/Home/LeesHome.html
http://members.aol.com/leesonic/KentCapriClub/kcchomepage.htm
http://members.aol.com/leesonic2/fatherted/fatherted.html
<< Power Racks Direct Limited
Marsh Road, Mountsorrel,
Loughborough LE12 7ZH
Sales Hotline Tel/Fax: 0800-731-4517
Tel: 0116-230-1366
Mr Lee Shepherd
Kent Capri Club
8th July 1998
=09=09=09=09=09=09=09=09
Dear Mr Shepherd:
I am writing to offer you a NEW and UNIQUE opportunity regarding the way =
you=0Apurchase Power Steering Racks. Our company
POWER RACKS DIRECT LIMITED specialise in the remanufacture of Power Steer=
ing=0ARacks and supply them at a very affordable price.
Amongst the things we provide as part of our service are:
=B7 Fully remanufactured and tested quality racks that look and last like=
=0Aoriginal new units - GUARANTEED.
=B7 12 month unlimited mileage parts and labour warranty.
=B7 Full product traceability.
=B7 Cost effectiveness and delayed surcharges.
=B7 Years of remanufacture experience.
=B7 Free-phone, free-fax 0800-731-4517.
=B7 Free next day delivery and collection service.
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Our service and quality are exceptional, and our back-up service and=0Aco=
mmitment are dedicated to providing all our customers with the best produ=
ct=0Aat competitive prices as soon as it is required. Please do not hesit=
ate to=0Acontact us for any further information you may require, or to pl=
ace an order,=0Aour staff are always keen to help.
Yours sincerely,
Chris Degia
General Manager
P.S. For more reasons to choose Power Racks Direct Limited please continu=
e.
Remember when you purchase a Power Steering Rack from us at Power Racks D=
irect=0Ayou are sure to get a top quality market leading product and to h=
elp you here=0Ais just a small part of what we have on offer to our custo=
mers.
=B7 PRESENTATION - Our Power Steering Racks closely resemble the original=
unit=0Aso that you and your customers will feel at ease with them. Shou=
ld you lift=0Athe bonnet you won't get the rack screaming at you that it =
has been changed=0A(especially useful for sales cars).
=B7 GUARANTEE - All our Power Steering Racks are covered by a 12 months,=
=0Aunlimited mileage NO QUIBBLE parts and labour guarantee. Should you=
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ship we=0Awill replace the unit free of charge and will pay for refitting=
at a rate of=0A=A320.00 per hour to the standard fitting times specified=
in the ICME manual.
=B7 TRACEABILITY - Each Power Steering Rack has an identification label s=
howing=0Aour name and a unique serial number. This number is also printe=
d on your=0Ainvoice so that you will know when you purchased the product.=
From the same=0Aserial number we know when the rack was remanufactured,=
which engineer=0Aassembled the rack, the supplier of the spares used, th=
e quality controller=0Awho tested the rack and at what pressure it was te=
sted.
=B7 QUALITY ASSURANCE - Every Power Steering Rack we supply is fully=0Are=
manufactured and vigorously tested. The Royal Insurance Company have=0As=
ufficient trust in our quality that each rack is backed by their Product=
=0ALiability Insurance to the value of =A32 million, policy number R24NN=
8165.
=B7 Price and Availability - We aim to please with all prices and=0Aavail=
abilities. We offer Capri power assisted steering racks from as little as=
=0A=A395.00 plus VAT and a surcharge of =A375.00 which can be deferred fo=
r 28 days.
For any further information you may require please do not hesitate to con=
tact=0Aus, we are always happy to help.
For prices, availability or to see how we can help you please contact us =
by=0Afree-phone or free-fax on 0800-731-4517, or alternatively e,mail us =
at [email protected] or [email protected] we look forward to hearing f=
rom you. >>=0A
Date: Fri, 10 Jul 1998 18:47:41 -0700
From: Bill & Lorraine Thompson
Subject: [capri-list] Holley carb: Berg/Wells
To: "[email protected]"
Just thought I'd add my $.02 worth.........
You can install the Holley 350 Economaster carb
without any machining on 76-77 2.8s (and even on
2300s) If your engine is stock, try using 52 main
jets and a 7.5" powervalve. I THINK regular
Holley 350s are the same as the Economasters.
SaCapri [email protected]
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 1998 21:23:50 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Real axle questions
To: [email protected]
Jarmo Korva wrote:
<< Well, I have Capri II (-74) with 2L engine. ... Real axle ... where I
can get new drive pinion with new crownwheel ?
Axle model is D (Salisbury) and old ratio is 3,75:1 ( 1.6 Capri and
2.0 Taunus). I think to replace them with 3,22:1 or 3,09:1 ratio
parts. >>
The standard 2 liter Capri rear axle is 3.44:1. The 3.22:1 or 3.09:1 gear
sets will work, but you may find 3.09:1 is a little tall.
You should be able to get used parts from the UK. I checked the ads in the
CCI magazine, and North West Capri is advertising used 3.44:1 and 3.09:1
rear axles for 50 pounds. Their address is: 16A Banastre Road, Southport
PR8 5AW, UK. I'm sure there are other suppliers in the UK who can supply
these parts at a reasonable price. If not, try Team Blitz in the USA. They
have used 3.44:1, 3.22:1, and 3.09:1 rear axles. Shipping from the USA may
be very expensive, though. You can find their address/phone number/URL on
the Capri Club of Chicago's web site (http://www.niagara.com/~bevc/ccc.htm)
under "Suppliers". Mark Wilson's Capri Ranch is another possible US
supplier.
If you want a taller final drive ratio, you might want to consider using a
5 speed overdrive gearbox from a 2 liter Capri MkIII with a 3.44:1 rear
axle.
<< And some extra questions:
Is there parts for making limited-slip diffenrential axle by own ? >>
There is a Capri-sized Torsen limited slip differential. I believe it was
used on some Transit vans and also some Ford ambulances. There is also an
older ZF clutch type limited slip differential, but the Torsen is superior.
If you can't find a used Torsen, Team Blitz sells a similar Quaife unit,
but it's rather expensive.
<< or What others rear axles are possible to make common to Capri ... >>
In the USA people have adapted the common Ford 8 inch rear axle to the
Capri. I've even heard of some people adapting the Ford 9 inch rear end to
the Capri, but this is overkill unless you're planning to install a 7 liter
engine!
Date: Tue, 14 Jul 1998 15:41:01 +1300
From: [email protected] (Brett Guthrie)
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Cologne V6 engine numbers update
To: [email protected]
Lee wrote:
><< it had a 2 litre axle on it when I bought it, and I have also discovered it
> has a 3 litre gearbox in it. >>
>
>A 2 litre axle (3.44:1) with on a five speed 2.8 Injection apparently makes it
>go a lot better, in that it has five gears, rather than four plus an
>overdrive. T
This is the way I would go if I had a 5 speed. Even the 3.22 gears would
make a difference in acceleration.
However, I once had a physics whizz email me with all sorts of calculations
saying that this is not correct and the gear ratio has no effect on
acceleration........
As for the gearboxes, I thought the three litre box was the same as the
>2.8 four speed with the exception of the bellhousing.
Exactly the same except for a key part: The input shaft for the 2.8I is
nearly 2" longer than the 3 litre item.
A NZ Capri Club member is selling a BRAND NEW never used one of these for
NZ$850/~283 pounds/~US$425.
He found this from Ford when the sum for just rebuilding one of these with
new Ford parts was ~NZ$6000 !!!! Go figure.
Date: Thu, 16 Jul 1998 21:38:19 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: [capri-list] Re: (capri-list] disk brake conversions,
To: [email protected]
Regarding disk brake conversions, Lee Sheperd wrote:
>... I know the
> Mk1 Granadas had "big nose" discs like the 3 litre Capri, five stud obviously,
> but vented as well. This could be a source of discs for owners of RS3100
> (maybe RS2600 as well) Capris, which have very rare vented discs that fit on
> the large stub axle strut.
For those in North America, Team Blitz sells a vented rotor conversion kit
that uses the standard Capri front hub. The kit includes the vented rotors
plus calipers, and costs around $US300. You can link to Team Blitz from the
Capri Club of Chicago's web site (http://www.niagara.com/~bevc/ccc.htm).
It's under "Suppliers".
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 02:15:15 -0700
From: RSCapri
Subject: [capri-list] 2600 V6 in Mk II
To: [email protected]
Has anyone tried to put a 2600 V6 in a Capri II? I just tried and the
engine mounts are different. Looks like the only way to do it is to use
the Mk I cross member since I have the Mk II with power steering cross
member.
Date: Thu, 23 Jul 1998 08:31:19 -0400
From: "Kenneth A. Heck"
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 2600 V6 in Mk II
To: [email protected]
Mount points on the block of the 2.6 and the 2.8 are identical. You should
be able to use the 2.8 Capri II mounts and put the 2.6 straight in. Are
you going from a 4-cyl Capri II or something where you don't have the 2.8
mounts? If so, then you'll need to get the engine mounts from a power
steering version as the passenger side mount is also the bracket for the PS
pump. You of course will also need the V6 PS pump as I am fairly certain
it is different from the 4-cyl. You also won't be able to use a MkI
crossmember in a MkII without some serious mods. The MkI uses 3 bolts per
side to hold the member up, whereas the MkII uses only 2 and they are in
different locations. Would require drilling unibody frames to get one to
mount. Besides that, the MkII V6 brackets 'point forward' from the engine
whereas the MkI V6 brackets 'point straight sideways' so I suspect that the
MkII crossmember also set slightly farther forward, though I've never done
any measuring to see for sure. In short, it would be easiest for you to
get a set of MkII motor brackets and rubber mounts.
Date: Fri, 24 Jul 1998 19:45:16 -0700
From: Bill & Lorraine Thompson
Subject: [capri-list] Re: 2600V6 in a Mk II
To: "[email protected]"
Easily done! Just use the MkI engine crossmember
on the MkII body. I did this when putting a 2000sohc
in my '76. I'd use some lowering springs cause the 2600
didn't have all the crap the 2800s had and the nose may
go up otherwise.
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:34:06 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Tires
To: [email protected]
Regarding tire/strut interference reported by David McCluskey and Barry,
I measured the offsets on some Capri rims this weekend. Here is what I
found:
Rim Size Offset Distance from mounting plane to back of rim
RS 4 spoke 13x6" 13 mm 99 mm
Ghia 13x5.5" 28 mm 110 mm
Steel 13x5 25 mm 102 mm
The Ghia wheels do indeed come 8 mm (0.3") closer to the struts than the
standard steel rims. This might be enough to cause interference if
205/60-13 tires are used.
Date: Sun, 09 Aug 1998 19:50:32 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Ghia wheels on a MK1
To: [email protected]
Ely Tillery wrote:
> I found a set of ghia wheels on a 76 capri in a junkyard. I know that
the
> studs(lugs) are standard thread on my MK I and are metric on a MK II, but
> could i just knock the studs(lugs) out of the MK II and put them in my MK
> I, and use the orignal lug nuts that came with the ghia wheels on the MK
I
> then?
Yes, this will work. There is one other tricky point, though: As Kenny Heck
noted, the Mk1 rear end doesn't have a flange to center the Ghia rims.
Without the flange it's easy to chew up the lug holes in the rear wheels
while they're being installed. To prevent this, try slipping some thin
plastic tubing over the studs when installing the rear wheels, then slip
the tubes off and install the lug nuts (finger tight) one at a time. When
all the lug nuts are in place, torque everything down.
Date: Thu, 03 Sep 1998 09:17:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: [capri-list] Mako Capri
To: [email protected]
In a recent e-mail, Frode mentioned that 'Das grosse Ford Capri Buch'
contained details of the Mako Capri. Does anyone know where I could get a
copy of the book, or at least the passage on the Mako?
A summary published in "Car and Driver" said that the Mako used Peugeot front
brakes and a Mustang II limited slip to handle the V8. I was thinking along
similar lines (with Wilwood front brakes) and would like to read how Mako did
it. I already purchased a limited slip Mustang II rear and am looking for a
HO 5.0 engine.
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 15:36:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] 5-speed for Essex V-6?
To: [email protected]
In a message dated 06/09/98 13:28:44 GMT Daylight Time, [email protected]
writes:
<< Is there a 5-speed gearbox available that will bolt up directly to
a 3.0 liter Essex V-6? >>
No, you'll need a bellhousing from a Mk1 Granada auto (I think) to bolt onto a
2.8 five speed gearbox, plus the propshaft to match. Where are you? If you're
in (or near) South East London, I might know someone that has the parts.
Date: Sun, 06 Sep 1998 15:36:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [capri-list] Capri Cossie?
To: [email protected], [email protected]
In a message dated 05/09/98 12:20:55 GMT Daylight Time, [email protected]
writes:
<< Cosworth engine and 5-speed Cossie
gearbox (if such a thing exists). >>
Yes, the Cosworth Sierra (2wd) uses a Borg-Warner T5 gearbox.
I had a test drive in a Cosworth powered Capri today, and it was mind blowing.
It still felt like a Capri, but the power came in with such a surge that you
get pinned to the seat. I understand however from the owner that while the
basic engine blocks are cheap, the ancillaries (turbo, computer, head) are all
what force the price sky high.
<< Now I know that Cossie engines & gearboxes are for Escorts and Sierras >>
Or are they? It's interesting that a lot of Cosworth engines are ending up in
older Fords (Capris, rwd Escorts, Cortinas, Anglias etc). My own view on this
is that the Cosworth Sierra and to a lesser extent Escort have about as much
character as a jellymould with spoilers on, which is what these cars are after
all. A Sierra will still be a Sierra how ever fast it is, bland and
characterless, whereas the Capri just oozes it's own character regardless of
engine.
<< and I'm not sure what the best engine to install (within reason) would be.
>>
If you're not even old enough to drive yet, you might get a shock when you try
and insure a Cosworth powered Capri. Before I got old (over 25), I used to pay
1200 pounds to insure my Rover V8 powered Capri.
<< I'm not even sure if Cossie gear (Sierra or Escort) would be at all
compatible with a Mk1 Capri, anyway >>
Should be, the engine will go anywhere a 2 litre Pinto will go (it's a direct
descendant). The trouble is finding room for the intercoolers, oil coolers,
computers etc. The car I had a ride in today had the computer under the
glovebox.
<< with leaded in the tank and a lump in the bonet, >>
Come year 2000, leaded fuel will be unavailable in the UK I think, just as
well you can run Cossie lumps on the green stuff.
Date: Tue, 15 Sep 1998 22:48:05 -0400
From: Lawrence Wells
Subject: Re: [capri-list] "For Sale" in Autoweek
To: Capri Guys
Dennis Andersen wrote:
> I am going to claim ignorance: what is this car : 1973 FERGUSON CAPRI-
4x4,
> Westlake V-6, Tri-Power?
I'm not surprised you have not heard of the Ferguson 4WD Capri; it's one of
the rarest Capris on the planet. The first ones were built starting in 1969
by Ferguson Ltd. and Ford AVO in England. About five were built for off
road racing in England; about a dozen more were built to determine the
feasability of mass production. Ford balked at this, but Ferguson modified
some "Federal" Capris for the US market. Very few were sold, but at least
one still exists. Ferguson also planned to produce 4WD Capri II's for the
US market, but I don't know if this actually happened.
The US cars differed from the original British cars in several ways: All
had standard US spec emission control 2600 or 2800 V-6 engines; all had
automatic transmissions; and all used viscous limited slip diffs instead of
the older clutch type.
The Weslake V-6 is most likely a British "Essex" 3 liter V-6 modified for
racing by Weslake. "Tri-Power" most likely means triple carbs, though the
later racing engines normally came with Lucas fuel injection. Actually a
1973 Ferguson with a race engine seems a little odd, because I'm pretty
sure the off road race program wound down in '71 or '72.
Date: Fri, 25 Sep 1998 13:25:56 +1000
From: Andrew Kelman
Subject: Re[2]: [capri-list] Clutch Cable
To: [email protected]
The ford cable clutches have a few problems, such as letting the thrust bearing
idle on the clutch fingers, causing rattles, and wearing out the fingers.
Over-tightening the cable to get rid of the noise results in over tensioned
fingers, followed by failure. Some cures I have discovered:
1. hook a spring between the throwout arm and the gearbox cross-member to pull
the arm back when you haven't got your foot on the pedal.
2. replace the plastic bush at the firewall with an aluminium bush to take out
play at this point.
3. measure and adjust the play at the cable mount on the gearbox side
4. (and probably most important) install a dead pedal.
Date: Wed, 30 Sep 1998 10:52:19 -0400
From: Ely Tillery
Subject: [capri-list] Alternate wheels
To: [email protected]
I just found out today that the mid-late(83-88) t-bird factory alloys(non
turbo coupe) will fit a capri without scraping anything. My dad's t-bird
has been sitting for about a year with a rebuilt but not hooked up 302 in
it and i decided to try the alloys since i had nothing to lose. With 205
70's on the wheels there is about 1/2" clearance between the tire and strut
which i assume is plenty. The only possible problem i saw was that there
was not much stud showing with the thick aluminum wheel so i would probably
go to a junkyard and get some t-bird studs or a auto parts store(more
likely a better source.) and lug nuts. The wheels i am talking about are
the ones with the 5 or 6 round 3 or 4" holes around the wheel with a center
cap to cover the lug nuts. The wheels appear to be 7" or 8" wide. They
give the capri a very rugged, sporty stance compared to the little 13"
wheels. I am going to assume that the mustangs of those years also used
the same offset wheel with a little different design for looks.
PS-If anyone can get their hands on some factory turbo coupe wheels, it
would be worth a try to see if they will fit. IIRC they are 16's???
Anyways, they look good in my opinion.
Conf: EMAIL (7) Read Type: MAIL FOR YOU (+)
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 12:29:53 -0700
From: JCraven
Subject: [capri-list] RE: [Capri-list] RE: [Capri-list] Help - Where's the
To: "'[email protected]'"
My street Capri finally stopped leaking water when I replaced the door
rubber with "JC Whitney universal door rubber replacement.
Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 22:33:50 -0500
From: Barry
Subject: [capri-list] Re: 5 speed in a Capri II
To: Capri-List ,
David & Louis,
Indeed it is I who is trying to mount a T-5 into a Capri II. We had the
transmission out of the box for the first time today and were test fitting
and measuring the Mustang II bell housing. As far as I know the only part
that had to be fabricated for mounting the transmission to the motor was the
bolt(s) that holds the flywheel to the crank. They were done by Mr. Pruett
his own self. He also trued the bell housing, surface prepped the flywheel,
installed the pilot bearing into the flywheel, etc. Of course there will be
a custom driveshaft, crossmember, and clutch cable attachment to the bell
housing. It uses a 4.0 starter and flywheel, a 5.0 release bearing, a 10"
clutch and pressure plate, etc. I would have to dig out the list of items
Sven told me to acquire before I could be accurate.
I'm just extremely excited to see someone start work on my car! The last
shop did virtually nothing to put the motor back into the car and took a
year to get the motor re-assembled in the first place.
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